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rsk68
03-08-2011, 08:50 AM
45185So after RTTC-2 and breaking my car I decided it was time to buy a trailer, I have always told myself I would never do this and that I would drive my car to any event I participated in, on the other hand I have learned that I really like to drive it like I stole it and that I will probably break it again, so here is a picture of my new trailer, it’s a 20 ft Pace Rallye with some added Aluminum and SS goodies on the outside, the truck I have had for a few months.

censo69
03-08-2011, 09:23 AM
Nice Rig !

T_Raven
03-08-2011, 09:35 AM
Nice. People always bash the idea of towing a car to an event but a truck and trailer sure make it easy to carry everything you need and have a way home WHEN your car breaks down, because you know it's gonna at some point lol.

mdprovee
03-08-2011, 10:37 AM
Nice one Rick. It is always better to have that back up plan, than be stranded.

66SuperSport
03-08-2011, 10:45 AM
I have a Pace myself. Just because you can drive your car to an event doesn't necessarily mean you should. When you push something to the edge repeatedly sooner or later something is going to break.
Nice place to hang out when it rains too.

Ron.in.SoCal
03-08-2011, 11:10 AM
Nice trailer Rick. Can't go wrong with the Pace brand. I was thinking about a 24'. Do you like the 20' as far as storage room? What extras did you get on it?

Flash68
03-08-2011, 11:15 AM
After driving to my first event (1000+ total miles, mind you) this is definitely on my mind now. Nice setup.

sik68
03-08-2011, 11:23 AM
Congrats on the new trailer! As others have said, it's cool to say you drive to and from the track, but as soon as you break something and get stranded, you just feel dumb. Been there done that! I rented a uhaul trailer for RTTC and am shopping around for flatbeds.

67zo6Camaro
03-08-2011, 11:40 AM
Nice back up plan... Just about every time I take my car to a race event I find myself questioning that exact problem "drive as hard as you want and face the aftermath of getting it home". Were did you get it, new or used. Can you PM me with approx cost. I want one. Smart move on your part. Driving to events and shows is one thing, but thrashing your ride on the track is another and a trailer is almost a necessity.

Brett

rsk68
03-08-2011, 11:42 AM
Thanks guys I was worried about getting flamed a bit.
20 ft seems about the trucks limit and should give me enough room for a 24" deep cabinets, the car is 16 ft long the interior is 19 ft 6" deep so it’s good.
I just got what was on the lot, it had a few options like the stone guard, SS cap and cast aluminum corners, I’m going to do the floor and cabinets myself when I get a chance.

sik68
03-08-2011, 11:50 AM
Dumb question, but I've always wondered how to get in/out of the car with a narrowish trailer. Can the car doors open enough inside the trailer or is it nascar egress only?

The Stickman
03-08-2011, 12:27 PM
It never hurts to be preppared. Good looking truck and trailer.

mpozzi
03-08-2011, 02:00 PM
Usually it's NASCAR style but I can usually manage to squeeze out when the driver's door's opened a tiny bit. Tape some rags on the inside corner of the wheel well to protect the door ...

Modifying and organizing your trailer is quite fun. Just make sure you don't get so much stuff that you overload it. Go with plastic or aluminum instead of steel whenever possible. You will find you won't use about 90% of what you end up with ... trust me.

Visit www.pitpal.com (http://www.pitpal.com) for some really cool trailer goodies. Some of the stuff they offer can be made yourself if you're good with TIG welding. And Lowe's or The Home Depot has prefab shelving that may be useful for storage.

Post up pics ...

Mary Pozzi

Neil B
03-08-2011, 02:12 PM
I'll never forget my first attempt to drive my race car to an event at Thunderhill. I had tire trouble and there was no trackside support. I ended driving home to San Francisco on a competitor's wheels and race tires. I got pulled over on the way home and the officer wasn't too enthused about my numbers and stickers, my out-of-state tags, or the window net. A bought a trailer for the next race.

TheJDMan
03-08-2011, 04:05 PM
I'm glad to hear you guys won't flame someone for trailering their car to an event. I found out first hand back in the mid 70's that even a well prepared car can have a problem at the track. I can tell you that it is very uncool when you have to call a cab to take you home to get a truck and trailer to pickup your broken car. That only happened to me once and I never drove the car to the track again. Shortly after that fiasco, I built a ramp truck and eventually moved to an enclosed trailer. The added advantage to the enclosed trailer is that you can use it to store stuff in when it is not in use.

BTW, if your trailer has an unfinished wood interior, I recommend painting the walls and celing white and I painted the floor gray. You will be amazed at how much it will brighten up the interior and actually makes it easier to keep clean. Also, installng "E-Track" will make securing stuff inside the trailer much eaiser.

Bill Howell
03-08-2011, 04:32 PM
Now, who would flame someone for buying a trailer...haha
Hey, I know I am the trailer is for boats guy, but trust me, when the crew goes on a roadtrip, we always have a back up plan (truck and trailer) somewhere in the mix. I just bought a featherlite open trailer myself so no flaming from me.

L & H Kustoms
03-08-2011, 04:41 PM
Dumb question, but I've always wondered how to get in/out of the car with a narrowish trailer. Can the car doors open enough inside the trailer or is it nascar egress only?

Dukes of Hazzard Style.

I wish I had the d/s easy exit on my 20ft enclosed but it works I just hate crawling through the d/s window on a car that has a nice paint job. Done it enough but cringe every time I have to. My next trailer will be a 24ft. Camaros and chevelles fir pretty comfortably w/ a 20ft but I sure would like to install some cabinets but with a chevelle there just isnt quite enough room to strap the car down and have cabinets.

dropit69
03-08-2011, 06:46 PM
My 24 footer i just sold had the driver access door..or submarine door ive heard them called...really worth it if you can put it in..my floor was raised up at tire area for even the lowest car door would open..was really handy..

tazzz25906112
03-08-2011, 07:36 PM
Now, who would flame someone for buying a trailer...haha
Hey, I know I am the trailer is for boats guy, but trust me, when the crew goes on a road trip, we always have a back up plan (truck and trailer) somewhere in the mix. I just bought a featherlite open trailer myself so no flaming from me.

X2,,, we love driving but a back up is always good to have in place..... Now the trick is to gather other in your area and get them to join you in a road trip to the event and us that trailer for it's stated intended purpose,,, a backup to a break down..... BTW the make great suitcase carriers too LOL....

cobragt
03-08-2011, 09:59 PM
Dumb question, but I've always wondered how to get in/out of the car with a narrowish trailer. Can the car doors open enough inside the trailer or is it nascar egress only?

Dukes of Hazzard style! LOL!!!

SparkyRnD
12-09-2011, 05:53 PM
I have been looking at trailers for a back-up for future events, and the getting in and out were of concern. I wonder if a door could be added somewhat easily on a used enclosed trailer?

MrQuick
12-09-2011, 07:49 PM
most quality trailers have a passenger side door. I own an interstate that I bought used for a great price.

Just keep an eye out in your area, there are always used trailers popping up.

I've been towed way too many times and I know it really sucks. Stuff breaks.

TheJDMan
12-09-2011, 09:13 PM
If you were to add a drivers side access door to an existing trailer you would need to provide substantial support for the stringers in the walls plus support the door. To be honest, a better option would be to mount a winch inside at the front of the trailer. My winch is equipped with a wireless remote. I can walk along side the car and steer as the car is being winched in. This eliminates the need for NASCAR style entry and exit plus it holds the car in place while it gets tied down. I also have a pair of batteries installed in the trailer so I can run interior lights and the winch in the pits. The trailer is wired so that the truck charges the trailer batteries as you drive the same way RVs are set up.

David Pozzi
12-09-2011, 10:21 PM
I have a 22' box length & wouldn't want it any smaller. I bought a Sears double wide roll around chest & pinned it to the front wall. If I need to pit without my trailer I can roll the chest out. Sometimes at Laguna Seca Vintage Races we get to pit in permanent garages. I usually bring along a bunch of bin boxes of spares, small generator, air compressor, jack, fuel jugs, spare set of tires at times, & a wagon to haul the fuel jugs back & forth. At a vintage race with lots of spectators it's a little tough to drive to the fuel pumps & back. I'd consider a 24' box ideal, 22' very workable depending on car size & amount of stuff you bring along.

exwestracer
12-10-2011, 05:56 AM
I have a 22' box length & wouldn't want it any smaller. I bought a Sears double wide roll around chest & pinned it to the front wall. If I need to pit without my trailer I can roll the chest out. Sometimes at Laguna Seca Vintage Races we get to pit in permanent garages. I usually bring along a bunch of bin boxes of spares, small generator, air compressor, jack, fuel jugs, spare set of tires at times, & a wagon to haul the fuel jugs back & forth. At a vintage race with lots of spectators it's a little tough to drive to the fuel pumps & back. I'd consider a 24' box ideal, 22' very workable depending on car size & amount of stuff you bring along.

Along those lines, another thing to consider is some meets have a paddock space limit (Historics for instance), so buying a bigger trailer can be troublesome in that regard as well. I have a 22' Featherlite "mini-stacker" I use for the supermodifed. Believe me, the 8' ceiling is wonderful after being used to ducking all my adult life. Problem is when you walk into someone ELSE'S trailer...:hand:

protouring70
12-10-2011, 08:40 AM
Problem is when you walk into someone ELSE'S trailer...:hand:[/QUOTE]

Oh man.....that sounds like it would leave a mark!!!

moreHP
12-10-2011, 09:37 AM
Nice set up!

SparkyRnD
12-11-2011, 05:17 PM
I am interested in the 40' plus sizes, so that I could bring two cars wherever I would race (we have several PT members nearby). The winch idea sounds like a good one. What size do you use, and how did you anchor it?

RobNoLimit
12-12-2011, 12:43 PM
Brett, a friend of mine is selling a 24' enclosed. Nice trailer, it has 6 lug 5200 lb axles, both with brakes. he's looking to get appx 4500.



Nice back up plan... Just about every time I take my car to a race event I find myself questioning that exact problem "drive as hard as you want and face the aftermath of getting it home". Were did you get it, new or used. Can you PM me with approx cost. I want one. Smart move on your part. Driving to events and shows is one thing, but thrashing your ride on the track is another and a trailer is almost a necessity.

Brett

SparkyRnD
12-13-2011, 07:09 AM
Does anyone here run the upper 30's to mid 40's length enclosed trailers? I know Finch has one, but wasn't sure if anyone else used them too?

SparkyRnD
03-01-2012, 09:09 PM
after doing some reading about georgia laws and florida laws, I think I am going to scrap the 42 & 48 foot trailer ideas. There are too many requirements, and with my tow vehicle, I'd be over the 60-65' total length, meaning special permits.

I think I'm going to look at 24-30 foot enclosed trailers. That way I can haul my car, tools and other miscellaneous junk, and still have room to maybe install a few bunks or other items. Probably will be cheaper too. I figure that Sabre is 17' long end to end, add in a foot at the rear with the car strapped down, so that will give me 6-12' of space depending on what size trailer I start looking for. That would be enough room for a few tool chests, generator, compressor, some seating.

TheJDMan
03-02-2012, 05:51 AM
Check out http://www.racingjunk.com/ litterally pages and pages of trailers for sale in the Towing section. Just a general rule of thumb, 20' is about the max a 1/2 ton pickup can safely tow and 24' is about right for a 3/4 ton. When you get to bigger than 24' and up you really need a dually to be safe. I also always recommend a weight equalizing hitch with sway control to be really safe. And a cheap upgrade is to paint the interior white. you will not believe the difference.

SparkyRnD
03-02-2012, 09:22 PM
we are running a dually, and that is a great note to point out for people that haven't towed before is make sure your truck is capable or towing the trailer you are considering

Randy67
03-05-2012, 06:31 AM
Check out http://www.racingjunk.com/ litterally pages and pages of trailers for sale in the Towing section. Just a general rule of thumb, 20' is about the max a 1/2 ton pickup can safely tow and 24' is about right for a 3/4 ton. When you get to bigger than 24' and up you really need a dually to be safe. I also always recommend a weight equalizing hitch with sway control to be really safe. And a cheap upgrade is to paint the interior white. you will not believe the difference.

Good recommendations on what trailer works with what trucks. It's amazing what people try and pull with 1/2 ton trucks (or even worse, mid-sized trucks/SUVs). I recently picked up a 79 GMC dually so I could get an enclosed trailer, no way was I going to try pulling it with the Dakota I had. Good thing too, since I am picking up a Horton Hauler this weekend (used), a 30 ft v-nose, glad to have the dually.

Sparky, I was looking at 24 footers, but found this 30 ft for a good price. It will be nice to have the room, I might even put in a low-buck living quarters in there. The extra length is an issue, but side-by-side it isn't as big of a difference at it seems at first.

TheJDMan
03-05-2012, 07:14 AM
It is downright scarry some of the huge trailers people try to tow with mid-sized trucks/SUVs. It does not take much to get a truck/trailer rig moving, the key is to be able to control the rig when some idiot pulls out in front of you. Always be sure your trailer brakes are in good working order before each trip and equip your tow rig with a good quality brake controller. It can save your life in an emergency!

I always laugh when I see the Toyota or Nisson commercials where they are towing a small utility trailer with an inflateable boat and talking about their towing capacity. I also have an issue with Dodge Ram in their current commercial where they are towing 5 or 6 trailers behind a Durango. Not only is that stupid but it is totally illegal.

tazzz25906112
03-05-2012, 10:15 AM
Does anyone here run the upper 30's to mid 40's length enclosed trailers? I know Finch has one, but wasn't sure if anyone else used them too?

I have a white 2008 48' Roadmaster and frankly I want to sell it off and get back to driving my car to the events instead.... Make you a good deal if your interested....

David Pozzi
03-05-2012, 11:54 AM
Remember most regular driver's license's will only allow you to tow a 10,000 lb trailer. The larger the trailer, the more it weighs, so you can't haul as much & still be legal. Usually a 24' to 26' is a good length, I think 28' would be at the limit if you fill it with tools and gear.

SparkyRnD
03-05-2012, 07:27 PM
Albert, I'd love to, but unfortunately the size and the price are going to be outside my range ;)

David, around here the regs stated total length of 60' to run w/o a special permit, and it was either 16k or 24k. beyond that, it was mandatory CDL. That, coupled with higher insurance, stops at every weigh station, grief from DOT / DOPS, and other stuff, just not worth it. I'd like to get an enclosed 28-30, as that is enough room for one car, tools and a small living quarters if I choose. Also could add some fold-down bunks / cots, have an a/c up top among other creature comforts eventually.

Odds are though, Project Sabre is going to take every penny I have for some time, so toys like a trailer will be well down the road. I can rent a uhaul auto transport for around $50/day, and I think I know a few guys with open trailers that will rent for cheaper.

71RS/SS396
03-06-2012, 05:56 AM
Remember most regular driver's license's will only allow you to tow a 10,000 lb trailer. The larger the trailer, the more it weighs, so you can't haul as much & still be legal. Usually a 24' to 26' is a good length, I think 28' would be at the limit if you fill it with tools and gear.

I'd bet a 28FT with any kind of accessories will put you over 10k with a car in it. I have a 24ft V-nose with a generator, a/c, compressor, winch, and cabinets in the front and it weighs 5700#s empty and it's all aluminum. I think it's very important to weigh the trailer and truck so you know what you're dealing with and to avoid fines from the weighmaster, if the pop you for being overweight the fines are pretty steep.

Randy67
03-06-2012, 07:07 AM
Interesting Tim, do the accessories really add that much weight? Surprising to me that an aluminum trailer would be that heavy. My trailer I am getting is steel framed and weighs 4200 lbs empty (30ft V-nose Horton Hauler). It doesn't have any accessories like cabinets, a/c or anything, just open front to back. Gross weight is 10,000 lbs max (has 2 5200 lb axles), but with the car it will be at 7200 lbs min, plus anything I put in it. I will definitely keep an eye on what I put in it weight wise.

censo69
03-06-2012, 11:14 AM
30 ft on 2 axles will be fun. Be sure to add some rollers to the back of the trailer frame my old 28ft had an awful time transitioning humps in parking lots and gas stations.

71RS/SS396
03-06-2012, 03:02 PM
Interesting Tim, do the accessories really add that much weight? Surprising to me that an aluminum trailer would be that heavy. My trailer I am getting is steel framed and weighs 4200 lbs empty (30ft V-nose Horton Hauler). It doesn't have any accessories like cabinets, a/c or anything, just open front to back. Gross weight is 10,000 lbs max (has 2 5200 lb axles), but with the car it will be at 7200 lbs min, plus anything I put in it. I will definitely keep an eye on what I put in it weight wise.

I would recommend you weigh the trailer when you get it. I was told mine was lighter than it actually is. I weighed mine at a truck stop with certified scales, my truck even weighs more than GM listed it at (6940#) so the whole rig empty is like 12,600#. The generator and a/c are probably the heaviest things added, the gen is a 7.5kw onan commercial so it ain't light. I'd be willing to bet your trailer is heavier than 4200#.

sik68
03-06-2012, 04:13 PM
Come on guys, think big!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/Big_trailer-1.jpg





(Courtesy LeMons)

Randy67
03-07-2012, 06:49 AM
I would recommend you weigh the trailer when you get it. I was told mine was lighter than it actually is. I weighed mine at a truck stop with certified scales, my truck even weighs more than GM listed it at (6940#) so the whole rig empty is like 12,600#. The generator and a/c are probably the heaviest things added, the gen is a 7.5kw onan commercial so it ain't light. I'd be willing to bet your trailer is heavier than 4200#.

You very well may be right. I will get it weighed when I have a chance. A generator and a/c will add quite a bit of weight. Hopefully it isn't over 5K empty, but I will find out. The owner seemed pretty sure the weight was around 4200 lbs or so, we will see.

My truck is definitely lighter than yours, mine weights 5500 lbs (weighed at scrap yard). It's a 79 GMC Sierra standard cab long bed dually, with a GVWR of 10K, and max trailer weight of 12K, so I won't be overloaded at least.

Randy67
03-07-2012, 06:51 AM
Come on guys, think big!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/Big_trailer-1.jpg




(Courtesy LeMons)


Damn, that is one big arse trailer. I would hate to tow that around. That has got to be more than a F350 is rated for.

fordsbyjay
03-11-2012, 04:28 PM
I have a 32' Haulmark and it is a little on the big side but I can fit two cars in there so that is how I ended up with it. The triple axle helps a lot but when passing big trucks or strong winds can throw you around. I have an F350 srw.
I can attest to the breaking down part. I have this sbf powered Pinto and after buying it every time I took it out it would break down. After a couple years of fixing things it finally became a reliable vehicle but it was rough at first. I also have a t-bucket we take to Cruising the coast in Biloxi and we ran into some people from Tx that drove their bucket there. The lady asked my wife if we drove it or if we had a trailer queen. The wife was like "hell yes we trailered it". lol. We did one highway excursion in it on I10 and that cured here of wanting to drive too far. lol

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

The thing I like the most is being able to stay in it at the track. I built this bed lift last summer so we could sleep in the trailer. It has A/C and a Honda 3500 inverter.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/P8240300-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/IMG_0226-1.jpg

SparkyRnD
03-12-2012, 05:09 AM
The bed lift is a great idea! Does it raise up and down, or did you weld it in a static spot?

fordsbyjay
03-12-2012, 10:13 AM
I bought an ATV winch for $50 from HB and have it on some pulleys just like a car lift.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/IMG_0158-1.jpg

Here it is up.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/IMG_0161-1.jpg

When it is up I pin each leg so there is no weight on the cables when traveling. I also have pin spots about half way down so that I can lower just above the motor in my tbucket allowing me to have the car in the trailer and still sleep in it. When the trailer is empty it goes right down to the wheel wells.

Here is a link to a bunch of more pictures if you want to look at them vs me posting them all.
http://s36.photobucket.com/albums/e3/fordsbyjay/32%20Haulmark%20Trailer/

Randy67
03-12-2012, 10:19 AM
Very nice trailer Jason. Yours looks a little taller than mine (mines 6' 6"), especially on the inside.

I am thinking about doing a low buck sleeping quarters in the front of mine, very low-buck. Just something to make the time at an event a little easier. Not sure if I want to deal with water and waste tanks. Picts of my trailer. Yep, I got some logos to cover up to keep the DOT off my back. Otherwise I want to keep the wrap for a while at least. Unless it causes issues then it will come off.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

And the tow rig combo, all 52 ft of it.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

fordsbyjay
03-12-2012, 10:46 AM
Yes I wanted an 8' wall but 7.5' is about standard without a special order. I wanted head room when I bought it and I can walk under my bed when it is up. There is still about 3" more clearance but that is as high as I can get the bed with the cable design I have. I need to tweak it some this summer and I will have to fix that.

SparkyRnD
03-12-2012, 01:32 PM
that's an awesome idea, and very well executed! I kept thinking about needing extra space at the front, never considered going up. And that frame work would be well outside the area of the car, so seems like a no brainer. I guess the only problem would be if you had the car in the trailer, the bed just above the car, and during the middle of the night forget how high up you are should you decide to get out of the bed :-)

fordsbyjay
03-13-2012, 01:14 AM
that's an awesome idea, and very well executed! I kept thinking about needing extra space at the front, never considered going up. And that frame work would be well outside the area of the car, so seems like a no brainer. I guess the only problem would be if you had the car in the trailer, the bed just above the car, and during the middle of the night forget how high up you are should you decide to get out of the bed :-)

It's just like sleeping on the top bunk...lol