por 15 for rusty trunk?

[vanzuuk1]

my 69 camaro has what appears to be surface rust in the trunk, I believe that water got in through the rear window or tailight area and the damp mat left a rusty patch.One or two small pinholes and a little rust.
Should I wire brush the rust and por 15 followed by spatter paint or aerosol bed liner?
I am only interested in stopping the rust I dont care if the end result is not factory correct.

[deadcarny]

my 69 camaro has what appears to be surface rust in the trunk, I believe that water got in through the rear window or tailight area and the damp mat left a rusty patch.One or two small pinholes and a little rust.
Should I wire brush the rust and por 15 followed by spatter paint or aerosol bed liner?
I am only interested in stopping the rust I dont care if the end result is not factory correct.

That is what I am doing. I took a wire knot brush to remove the paint and rust, then I 'oxisolved' the whole trunk surface. now i am waiting for my por-15 so I can coat it all back up (after I weld up some small holes :( ). then I will re-splatter paint it.

[vanzuuk1]

Two dumb questions;
what is oxisolve?
can you weld the pinholes in the trunk without removing the gas tank?

[Camaro Zach]

Two dumb questions;
can you weld the pinholes in the trunk without removing the gas tank?
EDIT: Sarcasm Removed

Do not weld with the tank in place. It's fairly easy to remove and can potentially save your life.

[ProdigyCustoms]

Two dumb questions;
what is oxisolve?
can you weld the pinholes in the trunk without removing the gas tank?

You are joking right? Let' s think about this, 35 year old tank, 35 year old O ring at the sender, probably still 35 year old fuel hoses at the sender. Yeah, go ahead and weld it. Don't take the 30 moniutes to remove the tank, might be too much trouble, LOL!

PS, since I do not know when you are joking, I will asume you do not know when I am joking. Since you might be serious.

DO NOT try to weld the trunk floor with the tank installed.

Also, be sure to tape the end of the steel lines to avoid fumes from fuel still in the lines.

[Bill Howell]

Frank, is that why you charge extra for work? All that wasted time removing things that really is not necessary.-LOL
For the love of God and your family, please do not weld anywhere near a fuel tank ever. It only takes a couple minutes to remove a tank on most of these cars. One spark though and you will be pushing up daisys, not worried about a pin hole.

[vanzuuk1]

Frank I assumed you could not weld with the tank still in the car, thats why I wrote the words "dumb question" before the question. I thought maybe since it was just a pinhole there MIGHT be a way to do it safely. If camaro Zach wasnt being sarcastic then lets hope He is reading this. I know its fun to play find the moron but keep looking.

[Bill Howell]

Zach is one of the youngest here, but has been around cars evidently all his life. I think he is building his third car and has a neat roadster that he pretty much hand built. His skills impress me and he will jump on any project so I am sure he has had some great training from someone. I am sure he, like you, knows better.
The problem I saw though was someone else reading this later might not understand about fumes and sparks.
I do not think there are dumb questions here and no morons either. Who knows, maybe this thread will pop into someone's head one day when they start to do something stupid and forget saftey first.

[Camaro Zach]

sorry maybe i should make my sarcastic remarks more evident or maybe not use it at all LOL. yea remove the tank and dont take any chances.

[vanzuuk1]

O.K. , so what the f#$@ is oxisolve?

So now that the pissing contest has been averted, should I use the por 15 system on the trunk to hold me over a while or is it a waste of time? I tried searching for por 15 and didnt find much.Does it do what it claims? My car has a race car theme so the trunk area does not have to look like a Boyds car.

[deadcarny]

oxisolv is stuff eastwoods sell that reacts with rust and etches the metal. Go to www.eastwoodco.com and type Oxisolv in the search.

Hopefully NOBODY ever welds over a tank..LOL... I know mine leaks, and I am sure there are PLENTY other original tanks that do as well.

[ProdigyCustoms]

[QUOTE=ProdigyCustoms]

PS, since I do not know when you are joking, I will asume you do not know when I am joking. Since you might be serious.
QUOTE]

I was not "play find the moron" by any means. I've seen dumber things done by professionals (people being paid to do stuff are supposed to be professionals). I've done some moronistic (is that a word, I like it) stuff myself. Some day I will tell you about a 350 degree radiator, A fun bath with a scrub brush, 50lbs of Silvidene cream, and hundreds of pain pills over a 3 month period. Or I could tell you about a 5 gallon lacquer thinner can with a half gallon in it, 10 feet from the guy with the grinder. Impressive explosion I must say!

Don't take it personal, one never knows who is on the other end of the these computors.

[third base]

Okay, getting past the welding near a gas tank..we all know you shouldn't do it...I used POR-15 on a hudge majority of my 69 camaro and have to say that it is the cheapest way to go about fixing the trunk. First of all, after you grind/wire wheel the area you have to sand it because sanding gives the paint the most bite. after you do that you must clean it. POR has a good product for that. then apply your POR-15 but be careful. wear a mask. if you brush it it isn't is bad but if you spray you have to thin it with POR solvent and make sure to get the right mask or you will become very sick...trust me. the catalyst for this paint is water. and since your body is composed mainly from water nothing is stopping it from curing in your lungs. in order to use the splatter paint you must also use POR-15's tie coat primer because no other primer will stick to the POR-15. If all goes correctly you will have a new looking trunk. For a distributer call this number, they are very helpfull. 1-800-827-6715 the companies name is The Finished Look. I might as well have stock in this place. JK.

If your question is, is this the best way about doing it... my opinion is no. I, after doing this process many, many times, would sand/media blast, patch weld and shoot with primer and final coat after all the rust is gone. I just feel kind of weird about paint sticking to rust and staying stuck forever. but that's just my .02.

[third base]

Oh, Yeah, I forgot. I would use Mortons truckbed liner. I used it in my trunk, underbody, and floorboards. good vibration dampener and sprays out nice and tight at about 95 psi. much more durable than splatter paint.

[Jim Nilsen]

Part of the whole POR system is POR putty which is a basic A B epoxy which works like steel when done right.

You still will want to pull the tank to do both sides to do it right, but you could maybe do one side and then the other when your tank finally leaks.

If you are going to weld things it would be better to just put in a patch than to fill the holes IMHO.

All in all it is just bettter to pull the tank and get it over with.

If you replace the bolts with stainless carrige bolts and use anti sieze on them you will always be able to pull you tank in minutes if you need to.

Goodluck and don't blow yourself up. I can remember watching my tank get blown up like a beachball when the guy repairing it didn't want to fill it with water to solder the holes shut. The tank had been rinsed 10 times and aired out for 3 days and it still built up enough fumes to expolde the tank to its limits before it almost burst. By the time we all reacted it was over, we could have all been hurt if it wasn't for the cage they use to submerge the radiators to test for leaks that was holding it for the guy to solder holding it together.

Jim Nilsen

[vanzuuk1]

Thank you My car is so clean everywhere else it sucks to do a whole trunk repair.I also know that dropping the tank can become changing the tank,everytime I take something apart it turns into"while I have it apart..."
So I guess my plan is to por 15 it for the summer and replace the center section of the trunk.The whole thing will snowball and I will probably end up with a stainless tank and minitubs.
Frank, at my job the guys leave small tupperware tubs with thinner open while smoking and using tools etc.The way the shop is shaped with no windows a fire at one end would trap everybody inside.The path to the door is also strewn with cords,scrap,etc.When I suggested to my boss that we streamline things a little I was told"we have been doing it that way for twenty years and have not had a problem"
My solution was to never work in the shop (I am on the road) and be glad my boss does not do aircraft maintenence.
I also saw a guy on L.I. spraying clear with a lit cigar poking through a hole cut in a disposable respirater.
There is probably a whole thread in this but My questions are addressed and answered.
Thanks again

[Jagarang]

Not to point a FINGER at another HANDY PIECE of work in your past Frank, but I couldn't resist! I hope you dont raise your rates on the MANUAL labor your charging me into to six DIGITS range! :naughty: :spank2: :lmao: :box:

[CDJr]

Actually, I use Chassis-Saver by Magnet Paints (www.magnetpaints.com (http://www.magnetpaints.com/)) Its essentially identical to POR-15 except that its $30-40 a gallon cheaper. But it adheres best to very rough surfaces, the rougher the better. I hafta disagree with you about applying anything over it though, third base...you can prime or paint over it with almost anything as long as you do it before it fully cures, or, if it is fully cured, you can just scuff it, and you shouldnt have any problems. BTW third base, how well has the bedliner performed for sound deadener, protection, durability, etc? Cuz Im planning on doing the same on my Firebird, as soon as I get the trunkpan welded in and the floorpans prepped. Charlie

P.S. Id drop the tank before welding! :secret: LOL