Some quick questions before I call SC&C

[mplecha]

I'm going to talk to Marcus at SC&C, but I'd like to get a few things cleared up first. My car is still all stock as far as suspension goes (1964 Chevelle SS). The springs are stock height Moog and only a few years old. I just rebuilt the steering linkage and replaced the ball joints/bushings/tie rods, etc up front with all rubber moog parts. The car handles much better than before, but I have a lot of what I think is bump steer. It also has a kind of delayed reaction when I turn the wheel. It feels like the car dives before it turns or that dukes of hazzard dirt road kind of driving. Anyway, I'm thinking about installing the spc adjustable uppers in front and tubular arms in the back with stiffer springs and a bigger front sway bar.

My first question is - with the stage 2+, do the tall ball joints lower the car at all? It sits a little higher than I like as it is now, but I don't want it too low. An inch lower would be perfect. Second - can I use the taller ball joints in the factory lower control arms? I've read the upper arms have to be modified (or aftermarket) with the tall joints, but the lowers will work, right?

My last question - (I searched first!) Why do all the aftermarket rear control arms come with poly or otherwise zero deflection bushings? Everything I've read about the rear end is the bushings need some deflection to work right. I haven't seen any vendor selling any with even the option of rubber bushings. Why is that? Would I be ok with poly?

Thanks for the help!

Milan
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/5258560737_8e74e12585-1.jpg

[Randy67]

The stage II+ will lower the car, should state on his site how much. You can use the lower control arm, but will get the SPC arms with the kit, they are worth it.

Talk with Marcus about rear control arm options, I would avoid poly in the rear. Most don't sell arms with rubber bushings as that is how the stock ones are. Most resto shops have reproduction lowers with rubber.

[mplecha]

Oh. The website made it look like the kit was just the upper arms. Is there something I missed? I was looking at this one.

http://scandc.com/new/node/42

[ColSanders]

Milian check DSE I bought there rear end kit and it has rubber bushings, will give the better ride and no noise.

[JRouche]

My first question is - with the stage 2+, do the tall ball joints lower the car at all? It sits a little higher than I like as it is now, but I don't want it too low. An inch lower would be perfect. Second - can I use the taller ball joints in the factory lower control arms? I've read the upper arms have to be modified (or aftermarket) with the tall joints, but the lowers will work, right?

My last question - (I searched first!) Why do all the aftermarket rear control arms come with poly or otherwise zero deflection bushings? Everything I've read about the rear end is the bushings need some deflection to work right. I haven't seen any vendor selling any with even the option of rubber bushings. Why is that? Would I be ok with poly?

Thanks for the help!

Milan
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/5258560737_8e74e12585-1.jpg

Ok. I have some useless info and one bit of good info. The useless first.

Im not sure if the the "tall" ball joints change the ride height, I would say they dont. Dropped spindles will, modified arms will, different mounts for the arms will and of course springs will but I dont think ball joints will. Oh, and on a side note you will like the SPC arms, they are some pretty nice pieces.

Second, yes I think you can use the tall ball joints in the stock arms. I think they are designed to work with stock arms also. AGAIN, I dont know, and that leads into the good part of my post.

Marcus DOES know all the answers to the Qs you ask. And the best thing is he is more than happy (or was when I last spoke to him) to discuss the setup. Get a cup of coffee (even if you dont drink coffee, you will need it to keep up) and give him a call.

He will give the low down on what he thinks (great info) would be a good setup. And even though he is a dealer he wont try to sell you parts that he thinks you dont need. Thats VERY uncommon these days. And really, he has a great amount of knowledge thats given freebie. Worth the phone call. JR

[wmhjr]

Tall ball joints lower ride height by moving spindle position up relative to the lower a arm.

The tall ball joints can be used in stock lower arms but Marcus will tell you the many reasons why you need at least the uppers.

The stage II+ definitely lowers the car. If you want to know how much, look at my project. I'm running that setup along with the lower arms as well, and spc springs. I'm very happy with the result. I initially built the front using factory lowers but a header clearance issue was the trigger to put the tubular lowers on as well.

Talk to marcus about the currie rear.

[mplecha]

I'll give him a call this week. I must say, your goat is awesome! I went through every page of your build thread. I really like your car's stance. I may have missed it, but did you have to add any spacers or is the height just with the stage 2+ and the spc springs? Did you have any issues with the front wheels rubbing?

[wmhjr]

Thanks for the compliment. There are tons of nice cars on this site. You'll stumble onto a new one pretty much every time you log on.

I'm using VERY small flat spacers at the bottom of the SPC front lower control arms. They come with the LCAs if you buy them through SC&C. The stance is courtesy of exactly following the recommendations Marcus made. If I work hard at it, I can create a situation where there is a slight rub with the front wheels. I had to remove one bolt which normally secures the fender to the inner fender - the rest remain. In general, rubbing is not an issue. You should have less of an issue since the chevelle has more room than the Pontiacs due to the shape of the wheel opening.

[CFster]

The Currectrac rear arms have Johnny joints (or spherical joints) in them. That's how they move, and move only in the planes they're designed too - no twisting and binding.

He's going to tell you to buy tall upper ball joints and upper arms. He'll recommend lower arms with a pocketed spring seat so you can tune your ride height with shims while retaining full spring length. If you want to eliminate bump steer as much as possible then get the AFX spindles.

[JChilders]

Just give him a call. I have spent hours on the phone with him and he is always willing to talk about your specific needs.

[mplecha]

I called Marcus today. It was a very informative phone call that ended up costing quite a bit, but I can't wait to see how the car comes out. I got the Stage 2+, SPC springs, Bilstein shocks for all 4 corners and the SPC lowers. Unfortunately, the lower A arms are backordered ~4 weeks. That's going to seem like a lifetime. The rear arms will have to wait.

He also told me the stage 2+ will lower the front end 3/4" and the springs about 1.5". The rear springs will drop the car about an inch. I'm not sure if I'll try to raise the front or lower the rear to match yet. I wonder if an inch rake is really noticeable?

[wmhjr]

You tell me if it's ok.

This is with Stage II+, spc lowers, currie rear setup. Spc springs and bilstein shocks.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/DSC_4651-1.jpg

[mplecha]

looks good to me!