1970 Firebird Formula 505ci EFI [Archive]

L & H Kustoms

02-19-2011, 06:04 PM

I thought I would introduce a new project we have in the shop. It belongs to a local board member Kevin Jenski (4mul8ion). Kevin started this car 8 years ago and it has been sittin idle for the last 5 years. We are going to install the engine/trans wiring and get the car in a running driving state for him.
Plans include:
Engine is a 505ci Poncho motor built by Butler Performance
Fast™ EZ EFI
T56 Magnum
Mcleod RST Clutch
Quicktime Bellhousing
Rebuilt 12 Bolt posi rear has 4:10 and we are going to install 3:55 gears
AAW classic update harness
Classic Auto Air A/C
I'll get Kevin on here to post up some previous build photos but here are some pics from today.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/100_2668-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/100_2670-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/100_2672-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/100_2674-1.jpg

L & H Kustoms

02-19-2011, 06:08 PM

Here are a few more.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/100_2675-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/100_2676-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/100_2678-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/100_2679-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/100_2680-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/100_2681-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/100_2682-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/100_2683-1.jpg

4mul8ion

02-19-2011, 07:17 PM

I'm really excited to get this project moving again with Luke's help. It's been so long since I've seen the car with the cover off.

In the beginning....
44718 44717 44716 44719

4mul8ion

02-19-2011, 07:29 PM

strippin it off...
44722 44723

"this thing rides like is on rails". Yep, on the guard rail all of the way around the turn ...

44725 44724

4mul8ion

02-19-2011, 07:38 PM

together again
44727 44728 44726

4mul8ion

02-19-2011, 07:48 PM

primed...
44731

cut ...
44733

painted ...
44732

assembled then ... and still that way today.
44734

LeighP

02-19-2011, 10:21 PM

Great thread.....since I'm building a 71, I'll be watching to see what happens....never know when a good idea pops up. :)

tommycomfort

02-19-2011, 11:17 PM

Awesome, we'll anxiously await updates!
Tom

Flash68

02-19-2011, 11:37 PM

Nice - that looks like a great project.

CruizinKev

02-20-2011, 03:21 AM

looking good! keep up good work :twothumbs

WS6

02-20-2011, 09:54 AM

looks good so far and sounds like a great plan.

T_Raven

02-20-2011, 10:07 AM

Is that an aluminum block? I really want to build an all aluminum 500ci+ Pontiac. I've already got DFI and a t56. Any plans for suspension mods?

L & H Kustoms

02-20-2011, 12:00 PM

Is that an aluminum block? I really want to build an all aluminum 500ci+ Pontiac. I've already got DFI and a t56. Any plans for suspension mods?

Traven it is the IA aluminum block. The motor will make 600 + hp. The car is already equipped with global west arms up front with Cat5 leafs in the rear and Baer brakes all the way around. I've got a little surprise in store for the front suspension as well but we'll wait a little while before I let the cat out of the bag......

dstryr

02-20-2011, 12:06 PM

What color is that considered? Looks soooo mean.

L & H Kustoms

02-20-2011, 12:25 PM

What color is that considered? Looks soooo mean.

early 2005 Corvette precision red OEM RPO 27U WA code 946L PPG code 906269. GM discontinued it mid year in 2005.
Its is a beautiful color and it is so fitting with the build and looks great. Its hard to photograph but looks killer in person

sixgunsblazing

02-20-2011, 10:25 PM

I thought the shifter hump wasn't needed for the newer trannys like the T56?

cobragt

02-20-2011, 10:32 PM

Very cool Bird, almost had a Green 73 Formula 400 4spd when I was in High school. Dad wouldn't front me the extra cash so I got a 75 Monte instead.

4mul8ion

02-21-2011, 02:40 PM

I thought the shifter hump wasn't needed for the newer trannys like the T56?

The only reason I replaced the shifter hump was the original one on the car was in bad shape. I wanted the hump so the center console the car will have would fit better.

PonchoJohn

02-21-2011, 03:20 PM

Awesome! I love it!

PonchoJohn

02-21-2011, 03:22 PM

That motor just makes me drool....

Motown 454

02-21-2011, 04:58 PM

Nice project ,it looks like you'll finnally get to use it pretty soon.

cdoggy81

02-21-2011, 07:03 PM

I like :)

L & H Kustoms

03-19-2011, 08:45 PM

Well made a little progress. Got the evap core mocked up and fab'd some mounts
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/29b419fd-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/94e4d6ae-1.jpg
also began to fit up the a/c heater delete plate from BMR. I am going to paint it gloss black to match the firewall
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/919a616f-1.jpg

LeighP

03-20-2011, 01:49 PM

Looks good...the AC system is a nice fit.

cdoggy81

03-20-2011, 08:05 PM

Is that their camaro kit? I didn't see Pontiac but they should be the same.

L & H Kustoms

03-20-2011, 08:31 PM

Is that their camaro kit? I didn't see Pontiac but they should be the same.

It is the Camaro kit from Classic auto air. We used the street rod evap core but the rest of the kit is for a 2nd gen camaro. I will have to do some mods to get the switch and cables to work but everything else should go on with out a hitch.

L & H Kustoms

03-26-2011, 10:14 PM

Got the March serpentine system in and installed. Got the valves adjusted and got the motor installed along with the hydraulic slave mounted. with the fabricated valve covers the d/s hits the factory booster so were gonna need to go with a 8" dual booster for clearance.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/7f066dfc-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/658528ea-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/5c624dda-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/1fa59d78-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/32575e1b-1.jpg

L & H Kustoms

08-10-2011, 01:52 PM

Ok time for the long overdue update!
we've got the entire inside of the body coated in lizard skin insulation and sound control. Began wiring in the new AAW classic update wiring harness and the FAST EZ EFI harness. I removed a few lbs of wire on the efi harness since each wire is about 3 ft too long. Pulled the harness apart shortened it up and cleaned up the routing and added a braided loom since i cant stand "split loom"
Kevin decided to swap out his QA1 coilovers and global west a arms for Pro Touring F body Tubular arms and Ridetech SA coilovers. We are also going to be mini tubing the car and adding a Ridetech Air Bar in the rear. https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/1a21d152-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/cbde3540-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/8c6ed894-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/9cb1bf7a-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/c537e183-1.jpg

L & H Kustoms

08-10-2011, 01:53 PM

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/b94c895e-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/b63ba66f-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/23827a76-1.jpg

cdoggy81

08-10-2011, 03:29 PM

Looks good! I like the TA spoiler look on the Formula :) Are going to go with the 73 TA style front air dam or the 70-71 style?

srh3trinity

08-10-2011, 05:36 PM

Why the change on the control arms? Any chance the old ones will be for sale if they are in good shape? Pm me if they are. Great looking project.

L & H Kustoms

08-10-2011, 06:16 PM

Why the change on the control arms? Any chance the old ones will be for sale if they are in good shape? Pm me if they are. Great looking project.

So we can run a more aggressive alignment without using a ton of shims. The PTFB A arms have 5-1/2* + caster built in where the global west only have 2-3* of + caster. The GW arms have already been sold but the QA1 Coilovers will be in the for sale section soon.

Looks good! I like the TA spoiler look on the Formula :) Are going to go with the 73 TA style front air dam or the 70-71 style?
Its going to be a custom hand built front spoiler and we are going to shorten the rear spoiler height about 1-1/2-2".

4mul8ion

08-10-2011, 07:10 PM

Looks good! I like the TA spoiler look on the Formula :) Are going to go with the 73 TA style front air dam or the 70-71 style?

Thanks!! Like Luke said, we're planning on making a custom front spoiler that doesn't have the end caps like the T/A front air dam. I've always preferred the clean sides of the Formula over the T/A but liked the lower center air dam. So, in speaking with Jason Rushforth in the rendering, this is what were going to shoot for in the front. In order to counteract the effectiveness of the rear spoiler, we're going to shave off some height and somehow keep the compound blend around the rear fender. Hopefully, we'll reduce the typical Formula float. Once the rendering is finalized, I'll post it up.

I honestly didn't know there was a difference in the front air dam style from the 70-71 to the 73. Makes sense since the nose changed. What were the differences?

Kevin

bhcustomdesigns

08-10-2011, 09:26 PM

Looks Great!!! :twothumbs

LeighP

08-10-2011, 10:38 PM

Dane Laney

08-10-2011, 11:47 PM

My first car was a 1970 Formula, brings back so many memories, the ride the feel, just can't be imatated by anything elese, and this one should be in a class all by itself, love it

MuscleRodz

08-11-2011, 09:53 AM

looks good, we are getting ready to add t/a skirts to a 71 Formula in the shop.

gearbanger

08-11-2011, 03:02 PM

4mul8ion

08-13-2011, 08:25 AM

As far as I know, the front spoiler and side spoilers are the same 70-73....the lower front apron changed between the steel and plastic versions.
I bought a factory repro style centre spoiler section for my 71 project. Car is looking good.
I know what you mean about the booster and tall covers being close...my tall valve covers come pretty close to the booster, but luckily they just miss.
If you're looking for a nice set up with the 8" dual diaphrame booster, The Right Stuff is selling a complete chrome booster/master and combo valve set up (pn 965-J85315171) thats on special at Jeggs at the moment. You also need part number BBK001 (mounting bracket for booster) and C02 eyelet, for a bolt in application on a 2nd gen.

Thanks Leigh. I didn't know about the material change.

Yeah. The welds on the tall cover just barely hit the booster. I was thinking about just thinning out the valve cover gasket from the cork something else but figured since these are so tough to get to seal anyway just go with the 8" dual. Thanks for the tip on the Right stuff booster. I'll have to check it out.

4mul8ion

08-13-2011, 08:34 AM

Are you sure you can run that compressor up side down like that? I was sure I saw in the instructions that the ports had to be somewhere above 90 degree left to 90 degrees right.

Just asking :confused:

Well, I was thinking that Delta P across the compressor shouldn't care about whether or not the ports are up or down. But now that you've raised the question, I'm not so sure. Maybe there's a lubrication issue. I was looking through the instructions from March and didn't see anything specific in their instructions or tips from their website about it so I jumped on Sanden's website to see. On the 7176 compressor spec page, they always show the ports mounted up in the 12 o'clock but don't specifically mention it as a requirement. I'll call Sanden to find out for sure. Thanks for the tip.

Kevin

gearbanger

08-13-2011, 09:38 AM

cdoggy81

08-13-2011, 12:13 PM

He is correct that the "spoiler" stayed the same & that material changed from metal to plastic for the apron / valance area..... Now in doing so they also changed the look of it ever so slightly as they closed off the top part. Problem is the new plastic ones all cracked the 1st time you came too close to a parking curb & were fixed by Pontiac under warranty & replaced with the metal ones. Very few cars survived all the way through with their original plastic front valance... In your renderings it looks more like the later plastic style which is why I brought up the question. I am actually add the later 72-73 style to my other 70 TA LS1 I am doing. The 1st white car pic is mine & all original. Here you can see the differences that I'm talking about:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/6038893215_2786fc30f3-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/6039473362_fa1e0d06e0-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/6038893185_0a289ddf85-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/6038893143_02907aaca5-1.jpg

4mul8ion

08-13-2011, 01:03 PM

Vintage air has instructions that come with the compressor that say not to take it past 90 from straight up and they site lubrication as the issue. Also, I bet you have a bunch of oil run out of your compressor since its been turned up like that. You can get it at the parts store called PAG 46 refrigerant oil for R134A. You need to make sure all the oil is out by rotating the comprssor and draining repeatedly until its all out. I pretty sure VA told me to pour in exactly 3.4 oz. of the oil. That is for the mini compressor like you have.

Ok. I did some digging and the VA instructions reference a Sanden service guide that says to keep the oil fill plug up between 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock and the guide shows a schematic of the SD508 compressor with the oil fill and the S/D ports on the same general plane. The same guide also references the 7176 model of SD7B10 in the affected model list. I'm not sure there's a specific oil fill plug on the SD7B10 to keep up. Just the two ports. Not clear if they're using a port as the fill. :hmm:

I'll contact them Monday to get it cleared up.

Kevin

LeighP

08-14-2011, 02:03 AM

If you want to use the plastic style valance panel, the f'glass repros still need some work on how they mount (same as the original problem). Apparently when these were mounted, there is some twist or pre-load placed into the panel which is why they break easy. A guy on another board I post on told how he carefully reworked the mounting points and it worked fine for him.
Personal choice thing I suppose...I'm sticking wit hthe metal one that my 71 came with...and I prefer the metal panel look anyway.

OLDFLM

08-15-2011, 04:25 AM

Well, I was thinking that Delta P across the compressor shouldn't care about whether or not the ports are up or down. But now that you've raised the question, I'm not so sure. Maybe there's a lubrication issue. I was looking through the instructions from March and didn't see anything specific in their instructions or tips from their website about it so I jumped on Sanden's website to see. On the 7176 compressor spec page, they always show the ports mounted up in the 12 o'clock but don't specifically mention it as a requirement. I'll call Sanden to find out for sure. Thanks for the tip.

Kevin

Please let me know what you find out... we installed mine at 12 o'clock but I'd love to flip it over if there's no lubrication issues!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/20091105Sema823-1.jpg

gearbanger

08-15-2011, 06:03 AM

Dude, your engine looks great.

Takid455

08-15-2011, 06:35 AM

not sure what this issue is, but why not change the rear plate to a rear mount vs the top mount shown?

4mul8ion

08-15-2011, 06:46 PM

Please let me know what you find out... we installed mine at 12 o'clock but I'd love to flip it over if there's no lubrication issues!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/20091105Sema823-1.jpg

Will do. I contacted them on Saturday but haven't heard back yet. I'll follow up again with them tomorrow.

Kevin

OLDFLM

08-16-2011, 03:21 AM

Thanks Kevin! MUCH appreciated! :usa:

4mul8ion

08-17-2011, 07:37 PM

Quick update. I've been in touch with a very helpful representative from Sanden Technical support. Learning quite a bit and not sure I have a complete understanding of it just yet. I've always wanted to learn how these compressors worked. :geek:

Something I've found that explains the compressor internals. See http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o-DBEYJhFLg

Takid455
not sure what this issue is, but why not change the rear plate to a rear mount vs the top mount shown?

Basically, we're trying to flip the a/c lines down against the recommendations of the a/c compressor installation guidelines. The question is what does doing that do to the lubrication of the compressor internals. Changing out the rear plate or clocking the rear plate to tip the lines down can't be done as there is a specific oil flow port location that has to be in a certain spot and to error proof the assembly, the mounting bolt pattern is asymmetric so the whole compressor has to be clocked as an entire assembly.

Kevin

aps63

08-17-2011, 08:10 PM

Vintage Air recommends the same position.
Here is the sheet from va.
Your car is awesome.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/Compressor-1.jpg

OLDFLM

08-18-2011, 04:44 AM

Quick update. I've been in touch with a very helpful representative from Sanden Technical support. Learning quite a bit and not sure I have a complete understanding of it just yet. I've always wanted to learn how these compressors worked. :geek:

Something I've found that explains the compressor internals. See http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o-DBEYJhFLg

Basically, we're trying to flip the a/c lines down against the recommendations of the a/c compressor installation guidelines. The question is what does doing that do to the lubrication of the compressor internals. Changing out the rear plate or clocking the rear plate to tip the lines down can't be done as there is a specific oil flow port location that has to be in a certain spot and to error proof the assembly, the mounting bolt pattern is asymmetric so the whole compressor has to be clocked as an entire assembly.

Kevin

Thanks for checking into it Kevin!! Now I just need to figure out how to make the hoses coming out of the top to look better! LOL Thoughts/ideas?

gearbanger

08-18-2011, 06:39 AM

I have a pair of tube fittings that you need for that. I was not able to use them on my setup. They attach to the compressor and loop toward the water pump and underneath the compressor and have male threads that would point the lines toward the fender. I'll post up a pic as soon as I can.

gearbanger

08-18-2011, 11:56 AM

Here they are,

http://i777.photobucket.com/albums/yy51/agodsey/GTO%20Project/023.jpg

http://i777.photobucket.com/albums/yy51/agodsey/GTO%20Project/022.jpg

http://i777.photobucket.com/albums/yy51/agodsey/GTO%20Project/021.jpg

http://i777.photobucket.com/albums/yy51/agodsey/GTO%20Project/020.jpg

http://i777.photobucket.com/albums/yy51/agodsey/GTO%20Project/025.jpg

4mul8ion

08-18-2011, 04:15 PM

Thanks for checking into it Kevin!! Now I just need to figure out how to make the hoses coming out of the top to look better! LOL Thoughts/ideas?

You're quite welcome, Ty. Thank you for your service.

The main problem with running the compressor upside down is the lubrication of the center pivot ball and gear that the wobble plate rides on. Apparently, the oil flow tube, when placed in the 9 to 3 position keeps the oil circulation ratio in the range specified for maximum durability in that area. When the compressor is upside down, the ratio to that area drops. Why that is I don't quite understand. Also causing problems when upside down, oil runs back into the compressor head area and causes problems.

So it may work upside down but there really is no good reason, besides looks, to do it.

March sells something that looks ok for the 7176 style compressor but not the 508 like you have.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

I'm thinking something like it for the 7176 compressor but send the lines horizontal off of the ports towards the fender. Or keep it simple and bend some lines like what Alex has done.

Kevin

Driver X

08-18-2011, 05:35 PM

Sweet Project , Nice Bird

OLDFLM

08-19-2011, 06:06 AM

You're quite welcome, Ty. Thank you for your service.

The main problem with running the compressor upside down is the lubrication of the center pivot ball and gear that the wobble plate rides on. Apparently, the oil flow tube, when placed in the 9 to 3 position keeps the oil circulation ratio in the range specified for maximum durability in that area. When the compressor is upside down, the ratio to that area drops. Why that is I don't quite understand. Also causing problems when upside down, oil runs back into the compressor head area and causes problems.

So it may work upside down but there really is no good reason, besides looks, to do it.

March sells something that looks ok for the 7176 style compressor but not the 508 like you have.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

I'm thinking something like it for the 7176 compressor but send the lines horizontal off of the ports towards the fender. Or keep it simple and bend some lines like what Alex has done.

Kevin

You'd think someone would make something similar for the larger compressors like mine? Alex's are for the smaller pump as well. Wonder who I could contact to have something made similar for my "larger unit"?

gearbanger

08-19-2011, 08:48 AM

http://www.vintageair.com/catalog11/pg71wc.pdf

Check out this page on vintage air website. They can make you about whatever you want if you can take a brake line or a stiff wire or something and make a pattern of what you want and tell them what ends you need, they can dod it. Pretty reasonable too for custom stuff.

I had a custom aluminum line made for my setup for about $30.

TekkarEdorf

09-05-2011, 09:54 AM

Awesome car :) How much weight do you save with the aluminium engine comparede to a stock all iron engine?

4mul8ion

09-05-2011, 05:58 PM

Awesome car :) How much weight do you save with the aluminium engine comparede to a stock all iron engine?

Thanks. The all iron Pontiac 455 weighs in at about 650 pounds fully assembled. I'm figuring the all aluminum engine, conservatively, will save about 100 pounds fully assembled. Hopefully, more. :6gears:

Kevin

70Uglybird

09-06-2011, 07:53 AM

MONTE7071

09-06-2011, 10:38 AM

Nice Formula cant belive you didnt keep the door panels and headliner lol.

4mul8ion

09-06-2011, 04:45 PM

WOW that is an AMAZING car. I'd love to check it out sometime, good to hear there are some local resources. Very interested in the results of the EFI, I've been going back and forth on whether to stay with Pontiac power or going LS. A big cube Pontiac with EFI sounds like it might be the perfect solution as we are constrained by space with the formula hood.

Also any details on the T56 install? Sounds like I need to get L & H customs a call!

Again great car, great color!

Thanks. It's been a fun project so far. Luke's a great guy to talk to if you do decide to give him a call.

We haven't fired up the engine yet so I can't say much on how well it runs, but I went with the FAST EZ Multiport system and 4 barrel TB with the Torker EFI intake to get it to fit under the Formy hood. It looks as though it'll clear with a standard size air cleaner but we'll probably have to machine down the throttle arm to get it to package under a drop base. Hope so because, as you know, you CAN'T go up very far under a stock hood.

If you go the FAST multiport EFI Pontiac route, I'd suggest machining out the Torker EFI to accept the short Gen IV style injectors over the Edelbrock picos to give cheaper and more available High impedance injector choices. As far as I can tell the O ring to O ring height difference was about 5/16".

The T56 Magnum fits the tunnel fine, width wise, but we had to clearance out the rearward part shifter hole to clear the internal shifter rail boss on the back shifter mount on the trans. I think that's needed for just my car since the shifter hump was replaced and may have been mounted too far forward. I went with the Quicktime Manual BOP to T56 bellhousing and we plan to use a hydraulic system on the manual bell to get more clearance access to the lines.

Hope this helps.

Kevin

4mul8ion

10-01-2011, 01:29 PM

Quick update.

This is the look we're shooting for.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Minitubs have arrived and Black Widows are on order. Work on shortening the rear spoiler has begun.

Kevin

tazzz25906112

10-01-2011, 02:31 PM

That's a great looking build.....

WS6

10-02-2011, 06:37 AM

Nice. I'm interested in seeing these tinted windows. I'm assuming the tint is between the glass?

LeighP

10-02-2011, 07:33 AM

Very nice...I like the look you're going for.

L & H Kustoms

11-24-2011, 12:48 PM

Ok so I thought I would post a long overdue update..... DSE minitubs have been installed and then we cleaned and degreased the underside of the car and applied Raptor liner on the sheetmetal on the underside of the cr and then we painted the subframe, sub connectors, and rear rails satin black.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/IMG_4254-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/IMG_4255-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/IMG_4289-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/IMG_4303-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/IMG_4306-1.jpg

L & H Kustoms

11-24-2011, 12:48 PM

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/IMG_4296-1.jpg

We also finally received the Tribal Tube tri Y headers and they fit great.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/IMG_4311-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/IMG_4308-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/IMG_4309-1.jpg

camloops11

11-24-2011, 02:17 PM

Where did you get those headers?

LeighP

11-24-2011, 04:31 PM

My exhaust guys ended up welding a two bolt flange onto the ends of those Tri-Ys for my car...really neat way to join the headers to the exhaust (they welded from inside the flange - very tidy)

70Uglybird

11-25-2011, 10:34 AM

That front end looks nice!!! Those headers are pretty amazing I may have to get in line and roll the dice on them as it looks like they address all fitment and access issues, I wish they came in Stainless...

Keep the pictures coming! This is such a cool "Average Guy" build if you know what I mean.

LeighP

11-26-2011, 04:35 AM

I had my Tri-Ys HPC coated...came out very nice and they should extend the life significantly. I believe the builder of these headers is looking at stainless versions at the moment.

SRD art

11-26-2011, 08:49 AM

Fantastic build! Although I'm a fan of 'em, nice to see a non sbc or ls powered GM ;). Keep it coming!

4mul8ion

10-28-2012, 01:15 PM

Time for a long overdue update on this. Luke's been busy getting the car to look like Jason's rendering. Here they are cutting an inch off of the rear spoiler.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

4mul8ion

10-28-2012, 01:20 PM

Fitting the rear 18x12 wheels and tires, measuring to cut the rear axle and welding the 4 link brackets on.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Installation of axle with 4 link rear.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

4mul8ion

10-28-2012, 01:27 PM

Working in the engine bay, fabricating a shroud and fitting the G brace.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

4mul8ion

10-28-2012, 01:35 PM

Exhaust is still in progress. Got the black ceramic coating from QC Coatings on the Tri-Y headers and they turned out great. They fit real well and tuck up nice. My subframe connectors might be the lowest part on the car now.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

instro84

10-28-2012, 07:27 PM

nice buildup you got going on, i love those early second gen birds.

4mul8ion

07-04-2013, 04:10 PM

Work as been progressing on this but nobody wouldn't know it by the way I keep this thread up to date. :guilty: Here's an overdue update on the project.
3" exhaust routing is complete. The 3" tube goes up and over the rear axle, around the tank and out the back.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

4mul8ion

07-04-2013, 04:35 PM

Work has started in the interior.
The seats have been installed in the interior and the shifter hole closed and built up for the center console.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

When the seats were installed, the original factory center console wouldn't fit between the lower seat side bolsters and fit properly where the shifter comes out of the floor. Nor would it match the mounting location on the dash. So that plan was out and fab of a new center console started.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

So, the new console needed something in the map pocket / 8 track area below the radio and forward of the shifter. Thought about it for a while then with inspiration from Bobby's (70Uglybird) car ... :idea:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Gauges in the factory locations and three gauges in the space where the map pocket / 8 track would go below the radio / ash tray area.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Mocking up the gauges on a spare trans am engine turned dash.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

I'll need to find some green leds to place behind the factory turn signal cutouts.

70Uglybird

07-08-2013, 06:55 AM

Kevin, those gauges look sweet!!!! Glad that I could finally offer a little inspiration to your build after I've been copying stuff off yours for two years :)

The console is really coming along, I look forward to seeing the finished version!

Nicks67GTO

07-11-2013, 12:34 AM

The aluminum 505 poncho powered mill is drool worthy and a dream for me. Way to keep it Pontiac powered! I would love to able to toss one of those in my GTO. I remember seeing an article about one of these aluminum block builds and if memory serves me right, I think the whole engine weighed less than 500 lbs by the time it was all put together. It might have been closer to 450 lbs but i dont recall the exact number. It was LIGHT for a Poncho though.

4mul8ion

07-11-2013, 06:15 PM

Thanks!! As soon as I saw the aluminum block, I knew it was for me. I'm not sure which article either but I think the 500 pound mark seems right. The bill of lading from Butler had an as-shipped actual weight of 565 pounds. That was with a long block engine with intake but without the accessories on an engine stand on a full crate. I weighed the pallet on the bathroom scale and it was just over 50 pounds. I figure the boxing and cross bracing 2x4s and engine stand the engine was on was roughly 20 pounds. Add back 5 - 10 pounds for the brackets and accessories and it's around the 500 pound mark.

Kevin

SPDMETL

08-23-2013, 02:25 PM

I don't know how I missed this one, but thanks for keeping it Pontiac powered!

uxojerry

08-24-2013, 08:13 PM

Beautiful build and great engine! That 505 has the potential to hit 800hp on pump gas with a few mods. It is nice to have that option even if it is never tapped.

cpd004

05-12-2014, 10:51 AM

Very nice!

70Uglybird

05-12-2014, 12:21 PM

Kevin,

How is the build going?

Bobby

BurtRenolds

05-12-2014, 04:20 PM

Is the AC delete panel welded or bolted?

4mul8ion

06-08-2014, 08:17 AM

Kevin,

How is the build going?

Bobby
Sorry for the late response. I didn't see anyone had replied to this post.
The build is still on going but slow. Progress is being made on some of the fine details on the body work and trim panels.

Is the AC delete panel welded or bolted?
It's a bolted on delete panel.

4mul8ion

06-08-2014, 08:56 AM

Here's some pics as to what we're going with. All of the chrome work will be painted with a black chrome effect paint. The front grills and, eventually, the turn signal bezels and headlight bezels.

Work in progress up front.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

The rear bumper was smoothed out and black chrome painted. The rear tail light bezels will be too.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Kevin

70Uglybird

06-09-2014, 05:31 AM

I saw the bumper the last time I was at Luke's shop. Looked pretty amazing. I'll be interested to see how that stuff holds up!! The grills look pretty bad ass!

Alponcho

07-06-2014, 08:01 AM

I've been checking this thread for updates because I'm about ready to start a similar project. 70 Formula with aluminum 535, FI, T-56, etc. It's my first PT project so I have a lot to learn.

4mul8ion

07-07-2014, 07:25 PM

I've been checking this thread for updates because I'm about ready to start a similar project. 70 Formula with aluminum 535, FI, T-56, etc. It's my first PT project so I have a lot to learn.

Nice. Sounds like its going to be a fun ride. What else do you have planned for yours?

I'm hoping for first fire of the engine this summer but there's some other odds and ends to get done before that's ready. Can hardly wait. :6gears:

Ravenworks

09-25-2014, 10:14 AM

Not sure how I missed this one! Very similar to my 1970 Firebird project, can't wait to see more!

Lowered907

09-28-2014, 08:34 PM

What gauges are those?

4mul8ion

10-07-2014, 06:19 PM

What gauges are those?
They're Speedhut gauges.

4mul8ion

10-07-2014, 06:45 PM

Quick update on the car. Much of the trim work has been painted and installed on the car. It's the first time in 10 years the front has been together with the headlights and turn signals.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Rear bumper and tail light bezels.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Sun was shining just right on the passenger side headlight bezel to show the black chrome effect that's on the trim.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Kevin

Murco

10-14-2015, 12:21 PM

Updates??

4mul8ion

11-10-2019, 02:18 PM

Finally made it off of the jackstands this summer. :1st: It's nice to have a running car again after 15 years.
169043169044

Alponcho

11-11-2019, 06:38 AM

Congrats! it must feel great to have it running after all this time. It looks great.

I'm really hoping you can share more pics and your thoughts about how she turned out, and whether you would have done anything different regarding the engine, FI set up, pulleys, wiring, etc. My Pontiac powered (aluminum 535) '70 Formula should be completed this spring but still have many details to work out. The biggest concern right now is the FI set up and making sure it fits under the factory Formula hood.

4mul8ion

11-11-2019, 02:07 PM

Thanks!
I don't have a real good overall pic of the car except this one.
169069

Most time consuming part so far is to get an intake system to fit between the fuel rails and under the stock hood using an edelbrock torker II efi manifold. Went through several intakes and attempts to get an air cleaner system to fit. Had to cut off most of the FAST/Accufab throttle arm to get it to clear the thinnest air horn ring spacer and keep it from hitting the hood.
169070

Still more detail work to do with the wiring and to get a better intake / air cleaner system in place.

4mul8ion

11-11-2019, 06:40 PM

I still have to get the suspension aligned and get the engine tune finalized before I'm road or track ready. Overall, as of now, now that the car suspension and brakes are better matched to the power the engine is making, I don't think I'd do anything different. I had quite a bit of help with the rear axle and suspension and getting the fuel system sorted out.

What I would change is switching from a top feed 4 bbl throttle body to a LSx style 90 mm TB and 90 elbow on the torker II manifold to pull air in from the front of the motor. The torker II manifold has the fuel rails angled towards the center likely for better injector line of sight but it reduces room for the throttle linkage, return springs and air cleaners. I've tried other manifolds including the Northwind and I couldn't get them to fit under the hood.

With the system as shown in my pic, I have about 5/16" clearance between the air cleaner assembly and hood. That's with a 1/2" spacer ring and a cut throttle arm.