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chr2002ca
02-12-2011, 04:25 PM
This has already been discussed and documented a number of times, but I thought I'd write another short review and share some pics regarding another example of an Accusump install on a first gen Camaro. This install is applicable to any car really. I hope this quick review will add a little info to the knowledge base and help the next person.

Last year my new GM ZZ454 crate motor spun a rod bearing at the RTTC event(no, that ticking noise wasn't a bomb, but it would probably would have made my life easier if it had been). After pulling the engine and inspecting the #2 rod bearing that took a dump, the machine shop and few others agreed it looked like a case of oil starvation to that bearing. Considering I'm only running a stock 4 quart pan and had been doing a few autocross events and then RTTC, it's very possible I starved the engine for oil several times, and that's usually the first bearing to go since it's furthest away along the oil passages. It’s still a bit fishy to me but that’s our best hunch. Some new bearings, a polished crank, a flush of the oil passages and pump, and a check on the clearances and the engine was back to where I started in addition to ‘prevention’ being on my mind this time around. Thinking about the easiest way for me to add a little 'oil insurance' and provide a little longer life to my engine via oil pressure on cold starts, I decided to install an Canton Racing Accusump system. This was "easy" because my Gen VI block already has an oil port near the oil filter, so I could just plug in the Accusump hose with a few fittings. Folks without that port can use an oil filter adapter.

I wanted to install the Accusump in the rear of the car for better weight distribution since a 3qt accumulator with oil and valves and stuff probably weighs about 15 lbs. Putting it back there also helped to keep my engine compartment less crowded. I called Canton Racing to verify that it was okay to mount it back there and they said it's no problem at all with the right size supply hose. I was initially going to install it in the trunk but then I found a good spot right in front of my stock gas tank and it was simple to measure up and run a few small bolts through the trunk pan to mount it there with the help of the supplied stainless straps. After that it was a simple matter of hooking up the pressure valve, electric valve, and AN fittings, and running a Pro-lite 350 10AN hose and power wire to the front of the car. I went with the electric valve instead of the manual handle-style valve because it simplifies the usage of the system and allows flexibility for the mounting location. It's a pricey option, but worth it in my case. The system turns itself on and off with the flip of the ignition key and now I get to pre-lube the engine on cold starts and I get a minimum of about 20 PSI oil pressure at any time on the race track no matter how much my oil pump is contributing or not contributing. It’s an amazingly simple yet effective system and it was fairly easy to install. I've had it for about 6 months now and it's been working great. With the addition of a Moroso extra capacity racing oil filter, my engine now has about 8 quarts of oil at its disposal even with the pathetic oil pan. Since I like to run synthetic oil, I now need financing to get a frickin oil change. My next oil system mod would probably be a road race oil pan, but I’ll see how this holds up first.

Here's my parts list for the Accusump setup from Summit. There are some extra fittings seen in the pic of all the parts on my workbench that I did not end up using because they weren't needed.

CTR-24-006 ACCUSUMP 3QT Oil Accumulator
CTR-24-271 ACCUSUMP Electric Pressure Valve
CTR-24-200 ACCUSUMP MOUNTING CLAMPS
EAR-351010ERL -10 PRO-LITE 350 HOSE 10 FOOT
EAR-981610ERL ST. -10 TO 1/2 NPT ADAPTER
EAR-981611ERL ST. -10 TO 3/8 NPT ADAPTER
EAR-AT809110ERL (2) TUBE ANO-TUFF S-SEAL
FRA-900955 (2) PADDED LINE CLAMPS 10PK

Hope this info and pics help the next guy(or gal!). :thumbsup:

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sik68
02-12-2011, 05:55 PM
Hey thanks Chris, great writeup. I made the same mistake running a stock oil pan on the track too, with the same main bearing fate. I'm still rebuilding, but I went with an Accusump as well. Hope it works better for you! Keep an eye on the PSI!

aronhk_md
02-12-2011, 06:47 PM
Nice looking install. I am installing my 3 qt oil accumulator this winter too, though I think I'm going to mount mine forward and with a lever actuated opener. I realize the electric is nice but I can always add it later...too much spent elsewhere.

With a turbo that cant be without oil ever, and the worry about G-forces I have the accumulator and a Canton gated style pan.

I've added a 2 qt CV-1 remote filter mount that uses an HP-6 type filter, the 3 qts from the oil accumulator, a plate style oil cooler and -12AN lines to all. Thats at least 6 qts added to the 7 qts in the pan for a total of 13 qts.....so I feel your pain on the oil change, especially since I need to use specific and expensive oil with the Bill Miller aluminum rods. I do believe however that oversizing your oil system will likely extend the life of the oil itself. It will stay cooler and each drop of oil will see a trip through the motor less often.

I cant say if your or my system can go 5000 miles without a change, but I'm thinking I might do an oil analysis after 3000 and see whats cooking. I'll be driving it a lot this summer I think. The other side of the coin is hitting the time interval factor.....since oil degrades just sitting in the pan as it absorbs water moisture and other contaminants. Still it might not need it as frequently as they recommend. I think some of the time interval recommendations may be fueled by their marketing needs.

An oil temp gauge would be good to add too. Oil should be between 180-200 degrees circulating through the motor, but if its hotter adding an oil cooler will also extend the oil life...and bearing life. In my case turbo life as well.