Polishing 69 Stainless Trim parts??

[g356gear]

I have a company that has been recommended to me to polish and clean up my original stainless trim for my front and rear glass. Everything is very straight but I has a good haze and some small pitting that needs to be polished out. The quote I got was crazy so I wanted to see what a realistic cost is for a good restoration of these parts. Thanks.

[AintQik]

I think I paid $300 for mine on the 67. I thought it was high, but it did turn out very, very nice.

[MuscleRodz]

It is easy to put an hour or two into each piece, even more if it has to be repaired. $400-$600 would be average cost

[g356gear]

Quote was $950. Front are pitted but no dents. Rears are just hazed.

[wmhjr]

That seems more than high.

[Rod]

a little high, our shop around the corner (Cantwells) runs about 600 bucks to do front and rear glass moldings, more if there is any dent repair

[BigDawgDavao]

Why not get a buffing kit from Caswell or Eastwood and do yourself if it's only mainly polishing. If you have a decent bench grinder it's actually quite easy to polish yourself. I've done many parts for my bikes and cars. Stainless is a little more tricky than aluminum, but still doable at home with the right buffing compound.

[AintQik]

Wow, I guess I got off ok. My guy took out all the dents and dings and brought out the haze. No pitting. It is very time consuming and well worth the money.

[wmhjr]

I've done my own stainless and I've also had some done. The stuff I did myself was extremely time consuming. Sand with 220, then 400, then 800, then 1200. Then start buffing with different compounds. Very dirty and very time consuming.

The shop I use is very reasonable and very good. Prices are far lower and quality is excellent. You just can't be in a hurry.

[chr2002ca]

I tried doing my original front pieces on my 69 Camaro using the Eastwood Polishing kit, Eastwood ding repair kit, and a buffer I purchased from Sears. When you combine all the different levels of ding repair, sanding, and polishing that you have to do it quickly becomes a very tedious, unpleasant, and lengthy process(hours and hours and hours). I got the pieces straight as an arrow but I never could get that 'professional quality' shine on them no matter how much I tried and I followed the instructions to a T. They came out 'good', but not to the level I was expecting. So, for the rear pieces I decided to pay a local professional about $250. They came out "show quality" and of course I immediately wished I hadn't wasted my time and energy and money on the Eastwood kits and Sears buffer trying to do the fronts. The buffer immediately went back to Sears! My front pieces will be going to the local professional also when it's convenient.

Your quote of $950 is definitely too much.

[chops101]

Umm, I guess the same thing I suggested from the other board.
So I'll just copy and paste.
>>>>>>>>>>>
It is not hard to do at all, just time.
A good 8" buffing wheel , SS buffing cake, eye protection, dust mask and time.

I had what looked like 4 screwdriver gouge marks in my bottom windshield trim, and a decades-old sweeping arc dug into my top trim from an un-rubbered wiper blade. A couple (maybe 3) hours later and 41 years were completely erased from the trim.

Gouges, marks, strikes and indentations can be pushed/massaged out, sanded then buffed.

There a a few threads probably on this.