Dry sanding with DA vs wet sanding with a block ????

[scranm]

What are guys thoughts on using a DA with interface pad to dry sand high build, or do should I use a block and wet sand? I guess my question is can you get a panel with the DA? Just tired the DA on clear and it turned out great. thanks Mark

[Happyfunballs]

You can "feel" the panel when you sand it by hand. The only time I use the DA is when I strip something.

[HotRod47]

You can "feel" the panel when you sand it by hand. The only time I use the DA is when I strip something.

Agreed!

[elitecustombody]

there is no substitute for long block if you're after lazer straight body,period.

[justasquid]

if used properly, a da has its advantages. Mainly time, turn-around and ease on the bodyman. Its common practice in collision centers where they just want a quick cut and get the car out the door. If your not after a show finish, they work fine. But, the finish is usually never cut down to a extreme smooth finish. there is usually a little orange peel left. I don't think you could ever get the paint perfectly smooth with one. at least not to same level you can with a straight block.

So its up to you and what finish you want in the end. Of course, you can easily mess up a paint job with either one if not done correctly. And I would almost bet the da is easier to get right than the block is for novice painters on a non show finish car.

Having said that. I wonder if you could cut the main build with a da, then move onto the block? Of course, I would worry about taking too much off with the da to make up in the final block process.

[redss86]

I use both methods nearly everyday. As was already stated, a da is a quick way to get it done, but I would not recommend it for a novice. A da will cut way to fast for an inexperienced user. Whereas with a block, it will get it flat, and is much slower/ safer method. I can tell you for a fact that when you block something it is definitly smoother, compared to a da that leaves some peel in it.

Just my .02,
Joe

[scranm]

I'm thinking I'll use a combo of Da and Block.






I use both methods nearly everyday. As was already stated, a da is a quick way to get it done, but I would not recommend it for a novice. A da will cut way to fast for an inexperienced user. Whereas with a block, it will get it flat, and is much slower/ safer method. I can tell you for a fact that when you block something it is definitly smoother, compared to a da that leaves some peel in it.

Just my .02,
Joe

[elitecustombody]

Just remember,stick doesn't lie

[Happyfunballs]

Testify. :hail

[H2Ogbodies]

I would not advise using a DA for anything other than initial knocking down on body work. For example, if you plan to do a BC/CC and are using a solid color (ie no metallics or flakes) then you want to use a guide coat to knock down the primer layer as flat as possible, working up to a maximum or 600 grit. Then, after spraying the color and clear, you will want to color sand the clear layer (so put at least 4 medium coats for this) starting with an intial cut of 1000 and working up to 3000 wetodry. imo, the most important step in a great crystal clear finish is the primer layer. You HAVE to block it by hand and not a DA because a DA no matter what it is or who uses it will give you small valleys in the surface which in the end, will make any reflected image in the paint appear to "crawl" around. For example, look at the reflective image of somethign razor straight like a flourescent bulb in the ceiling at the shop-if the edges appear to crawl or shift as you move, then the problem most likely is a poor primer prep and no amount of color sanding will fix it. This is because the entire finish is made up layers of body work, primer, paint and clear. So if you expect a show finish at the top layer (clear) you better prep a show finish primer layer first. Trust me, with the amount of work involved, there is no other way to do it other than the right way-no shortcuts.