PDA

View Full Version : BSharpe's LY6 6l90 Chevelle



bsharpe
01-15-2011, 03:42 PM
I am starting the second phase of my Chevelle build and I thought I would share it with you guys.


I had swapped a stock ls1 and 4l60e into the Chevelle last winter as well as updating the brakes and suspension as well. You can find my build on ls1tech http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1212395-bsharpes-71-chevelle-ls1-4l60e-swap-2.html
I had originally planned on upgrading the cam and heads this winter but after thinking about it I decided to redo everything. I picked up a complete 6.0 ly6 and a 2wd 6L90. I love the power and potential this motor has with l92 heads and VVT which I think is a plus. I also think the 6l90 is a huge improvement over the 4l60e but I think it is going to be difficult to fit the huge trans under the chevelle.
I plan on keeping the engine stock at first just to help simplify the wiring and tuning which I plan on doing myself this time. I will be reusing the edelbrock mounts and headers and will probably be getting a cts-v oil pan this time.



Here is how the chevelle sits now.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img526.imageshack.us/i/91810004.jpg/)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img843.imageshack.us/i/82010032.jpg/)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img18.imageshack.us/i/91810006.jpg/)

pmgm
01-15-2011, 04:46 PM
Hello, I remember your car from the ls1 forum.. Please keep us posted on the new build process ..

Thanks

srh3trinity
01-15-2011, 05:24 PM
Cool project. I like the idea of the VVT engines and was going to go the LY6 route until I scored a cheap LQ4.

bsharpe
01-25-2011, 08:53 PM
The ls1 and 4l60e are out of the chevelle. I was able to compare the 6l90 and 4l60e and I am a little worried. I knew the 6l90 was huge but I did not think the ground clearance was going to be an issue. The 6l90 is 4in taller measuring from the bottom of the pan to the center of the output shaft. This means if I keep my driveline angles the same then the 6l90 will hang 4in lower. I will try and test fit everything later this week.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img31.imageshack.us/i/dscn1251j.jpg/)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img210.imageshack.us/i/dscn1252wk.jpg/)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img146.imageshack.us/i/dscn1253u.jpg/)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img406.imageshack.us/i/dscn1265d.jpg/)



I have been planning the wiring and electronic part of the swap.
The plan is to modify my stock harness not only to be standalone but to be more appealing. I need reroute everything so the wires do not go over the intake and to locate the ecm and fuse box inside the car.

I plan on getting a dash wiring harness,BCM and escalade gauge cluster. The OEM gauge clusters are nice and effective especially with the newer display information center(dic). I realise it will take some customising but it is a much better option then buying Covans thunder road dash and Custom Speedhut gauges for 750 which i had originally planned.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img811.imageshack.us/i/27e612.jpg/)


By incorporating the BCM I have options to add a cts/g8 shifter, remote start and other features in the future. I also feel confident that hackers and others will create more options and benefits for the new systems as well.

bsharpe
02-06-2011, 08:38 AM
The engine and trans are in. Fitment was not a big issue. I placed both trans at the same top height and the difference is not that noticeable. The 6l90 is much fatter in the rear.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img703.imageshack.us/i/dscn1278v.jpg/)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img694.imageshack.us/i/dscn1279s.jpg/)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img19.imageshack.us/i/dscn1280lu.jpg/)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img171.imageshack.us/i/dscn1281m.jpg/)


I would think the trans would have fit with some persuasion with a hammer if on wanted but I made a H cut for extra clearance.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img715.imageshack.us/i/dscn1287c.jpg/)


I removed the engine and finished modifying the engine wiring harness. It took a lot of time but was actually much simpler then I had predicted. These harnesses are basically standalone from the factory. I just had to reroute, shorten, and lengthen some wires. I also wired in electrical fans and made my own fuse relay set up.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img821.imageshack.us/i/dscn1306i.jpg/)

I still have not figured out the cluster wiring and computers. It looks like adding the BCM might make things much more complicated. I have read that the pcm, bcm, and cluster need to be compatible but cant find info on which ones are. I think I also might have to have the BCM tuned and set up by a dealer for it to work properly but I currently only want a functional gauge cluster with a DIC. I do not need any of the other features yet. I have a lot more research to do.

Before I reinstall the engine I am shaving the firewall and cleaning things up a little.

I also picked up a set of Recaro seats to replace the bench in the front. Like the rest of my parts i have used, I did not buy new but rather used from a junkyard. They are from a Saturn ion redline. I do not know if I am going to modify the rear seats to work or just reupholster them to match.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img248.imageshack.us/i/dscn1308r.jpg/)

They need to be cleaned but they are exactly what i have been looking for.

ponjohn
02-06-2011, 10:47 AM
Nice project.

Steve68
02-06-2011, 12:02 PM
That trans is a hog, saw one the other day, good cutting on the tunnel!


I like the seats too!!!

Motown 454
02-06-2011, 01:50 PM
Nice project very interesting.

L & H Kustoms
02-06-2011, 02:43 PM
nice build! Subscribed. keep the updates coming

bonecrrusher
02-07-2011, 07:15 PM
Nice...

bsharpe
02-07-2011, 08:26 PM
The engine and trans are back in the car. Firewall cover is complete. The engine side of the wiring is complete but needs to be wrapped.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img18.imageshack.us/i/dscn1315o.jpg/)

I choose to use the Throttle pedal from a 07 Monte Carlo and I am very happy with the fit. Here is a pic with it mounted using one of the mounting holes from the original pedal. You can also see where the wiring harness goes through the firewall directly behind the intake.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img714.imageshack.us/i/dscn1316e.jpg/)

Thanks for the compliments and comments. Keep them coming.

bonecrrusher
02-12-2011, 06:22 PM
Any pics of the cut up floor pan?

bsharpe
03-27-2011, 08:40 PM
I made some progress on the chevelle.
I patched the trans tunnel and started reassembling the interior. I was able to set the trans at 3 degrees without cutting the floor braces which was my goal but i will have some serious ground clearance issues.

I got 50 sq ft of fat mat and covered the floors before glueing down some black ozite carpet.https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img200.imageshack.us/i/dscn1356gf.jpg/)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img842.imageshack.us/i/dscn1361i.jpg/)

I also put in the new seats and gauges. I realize that the carpet and seats do not go with the old panels but i plan on getting some new panels in the future and would like to change the blue to black. The rear seats fit pretty good without any modifications but i think i will most likely put my stock bench back in and spend my time elsewhere. I have already modified the front seat brackets to bolt up to the chevelle floor.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img269.imageshack.us/i/dscn1359ki.jpg/)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img853.imageshack.us/i/dscn1370c.jpg/)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img831.imageshack.us/i/dscn1364u.jpg/)

I only need to finish a few more things before I can get the car on the road. I have to wire in the BCM and gauge cluster. I have to get my exhaust and driveshaft adjusted for the bigger trans. I need to adjust the truck 6l90 dip stick to fit or plug it like the cars. I think the truck one would work but it is seems impossible to install. And i need to buy an alternator

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img101.imageshack.us/i/dscn1368iu.jpg/)

jaeris
03-28-2011, 04:44 AM
Hey There,
Let me know how the gauges setup works I like that idea. did you have to use the bcm from the donor? Some more details on that would be sweet!

Thanks
Sean

bsharpe
03-28-2011, 08:18 PM
I think that the gauges themselves will work fine using the BCM to control them. The problem is going to be in the DIC. It is going to be plagued with ABS and other errors where it will almost be useless. There does not seem to be an easy solution to this problem. I originally figured that the BCM tuners would be able to delete the unused components but after some emails it seems to be much more complicated and they are not willing to do it.

I was not able to get all of the electronics from a donor vehicle so i have pieced the ECM, TCM, BCM and gauge cluster from 4 different vehicle which is going to complicate things. I might have to get them reprogrammed by a dealership.

CreepinDeth
05-04-2011, 01:57 AM
I'm very interested to see how you make those gauges work.
Just curious how you plan to fit the height into the dash since it's obviously higher as it sits ???

bsharpe
05-12-2011, 09:10 PM
I'm very interested to see how you make those gauges work.
Just curious how you plan to fit the height into the dash since it's obviously higher as it sits ???

The dash pad actually fits with no modifications.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img834.imageshack.us/i/imag0070cw.jpg/)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img708.imageshack.us/i/imag0069o.jpg/)

During the last month i have slowly tackled the small but necessary tasks and i was finally able to start the motor last weekend. Only 1 of the banks would fire. After checking all of my wiring, every injector I found that the gas tank was basically empty. Which is why you should always check the simple things first. The only problem i have is a p2138 accelerator pedal code. I have checked my wiring and everything seems fine. The pedal is new. I have read everything i can find about this problem but still cant get the dbw to work. I think my new pedal might be at fault and i will try and find another pedal to test.

I will try and wire in the BCM and start working on getting the gauges and other things working this weekend. I have tested but failed to get the Cluster to power up. I need to find the correct wiring diagram. The one i have shows a 20 pin connector but the cluster is 26 pins. I will try and go to the dealership to get the schematics and diagrams but that is always a very painful experience especially when they charge me $3 each for the tiny bcm wiring terminals which i cant find anywhere else.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img222.imageshack.us/i/imag0033cf.jpg/)

73z-6sp
05-13-2011, 03:39 AM
gbhnjmk

bsharpe
05-16-2011, 08:32 PM
I spent most of the weekend working on the chevelle and I made some good progress. The engine is running at 100% now and I am able to rev it with a working accelerator pedal. I read that the corvette pedals were wired differently than the trucks so I switched pins d and f on the pedal connector and to match the corvette diagrams and everything worked perfectly. The Monte carlo pedal is compatible it just needs to be wired differently.
I did pull a couple of the injectors and put them in boiling water to unclog them.

I also was also able to wire up the bcm and gauge cluster I will get more information and all of the details later but everything seems to be functional like planned. I still have a lot of things to play with and add in the future. Here is a picture of everything lit up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/98/imag0077ga.jpg/)


Unfortunately everything didn’t work perfectly. I did not drive the car yet because of transmission problems. I am getting a p0700 code and P2723 – Pressure Control Solenoid E Stuck Off. I was expecting some problems with the trans since they are new to swaps but I was not ready for mechanical problems. I bought it from a respectable Junk yard with only 20000 miles. Hopefully the problem will fix itself because I do not know where or how I could have the trans comfortably serviced.

73z-6sp
05-17-2011, 07:27 AM
gtvbhnj

Speartech
05-17-2011, 09:13 AM
I spent most of the weekend working on the chevelle and I made some good progress. The engine is running at 100% now and I am able to rev it with a working accelerator pedal. I read that the corvette pedals were wired differently than the trucks so I switched pins d and f on the pedal connector and to match the corvette diagrams and everything worked perfectly. The Monte carlo pedal is compatible it just needs to be wired differently.
I did pull a couple of the injectors and put them in boiling water to unclog them.

I also was also able to wire up the bcm and gauge cluster I will get more information and all of the details later but everything seems to be functional like planned. I still have a lot of things to play with and add in the future. Here is a picture of everything lit up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/98/imag0077ga.jpg/)


Unfortunately everything didn’t work perfectly. I did not drive the car yet because of transmission problems. I am getting a p0700 code and P2723 – Pressure Control Solenoid E Stuck Off. I was expecting some problems with the trans since they are new to swaps but I was not ready for mechanical problems. I bought it from a respectable Junk yard with only 20000 miles. Hopefully the problem will fix itself because I do not know where or how I could have the trans comfortably serviced.

The trans solenoids are all together and are in one package along with the TCM.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/6L80_TCMSolenoid_assembly2-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/6L80_TCMSolenoid_assembly1-1.jpg

That makes it fairly easy to replace, but expensive. The solenoid/TCM "pack" is around $500 plus $100 core.

That's the way a lot of today's stuff is; one solenoid goes bad, replace them all.

John

Speartech
05-17-2011, 09:20 AM
I spoke to John at Speartech regarding the throttle pedal. I also had bought and installed the MC pedal but after more reading I got worried I would have problems when I finally get to start it. John was VERY adamant that you absolutely have to use the pedal from the donor car. No IF, ANDS, or BUTS. So I would suggest finding that pedal and hopefully it solves your problem. :)

Nice build!

I don't believe I ever said anything like that. Pedals are interchangeable as long as the pedal sensor is compatible with the operating system you want to use it with. Not all pedals will work with all engine/trans setups (even though people will call and tell me they will because they read it on the Internet!) :)

John

73z-6sp
05-17-2011, 10:56 AM
hnjmk,

73z-6sp
05-17-2011, 11:09 AM
fvgbhnjmk

bsharpe
05-18-2011, 05:58 PM
Would you mind expanding on your throttle pedal fix? I am very interested in what you did and why. Which computer are you using? Any references that you can share?

For the gas pedal I switched the white/black wire with the brown wire pin D and F.



The trans solenoids are all together and are in one package along with the TCM.




That makes it fairly easy to replace, but expensive. The solenoid/TCM "pack" is around $500 plus $100 core.

That's the way a lot of today's stuff is; one solenoid goes bad, replace them all.

John

John thank you for that information and help. Is that how your customers have to ship the tcm when you tune them?

My current plan is to buy the g8 pan and filter and have it modified to work with the 6l90. I will then drop the pan and drain the new fluid. Clean and inspect the solenoids and replace if necessary. I am really disappointed that I am not driving the car now and very upset with how much more time and money this trans is causing.


I just want to clarify that I am in no way at all saying John is lying or anything negative.
John...no offense but you are a hard man to "read". What may be perfectly normal conversation for you can come across as something different to others. Not saying something is wrong with you or those of us who don't understand your ways...its just something that everyone deals with. Its why I ask a lot of questions of which many may seem like stupid questions to others.

I had also talked to John before starting this swap and was disappointed and frustrated with our conversations which is why I decided to tackle the project myself. I am very happy i did and have learned a lot, saved money, and got a better product so thanks. John after reading the other thread it looks like your reputation is supplying you with plenty of business but I recommend you still attempt to be better on the phone. It is easier to loose your reputation than it is to make it.

bsharpe
05-18-2011, 06:23 PM
I have been watching a lot of the 48 hour camaro build and really enjoyed seeing the little details that most shows miss. I think the little things are what really makes a difference in a build.

Here are some pictures of the upper intake hose I made for my set up. It makes a huge difference to have a hose that fits the car and looks good. Many install a long hoes that loops around but it looks awful and takes up a lot of extra space in my opinion. I just went to the autoparts store and stared at their wall of hoses until i found one i liked.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/812/imag0043ag.jpg/)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/717/imag0044kk.jpg/)

I also mentioned I had trouble getting the dipstick installed. I ended up trimming the tip which goes into the trans just enough to clear the floorpans. It fits rather nice otherwise.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/204/imag0014bq.jpg/)

I also never mentioned that i swapped the power steering pulley with one from an inline 6 late 90's GM car. PN 10166335
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/703/imag0048dd.jpg/)

bsharpe
06-08-2011, 06:56 PM
The car is finally insured ( by hagerty) and titled but i have only driven it around the block a few times. The engine runs strong but I am worried about the trans. I started to hear a grinding/rattle from the bell housing but it was rare and inconsistent at first. Unfortunately is seems to becoming more frequent. I think it is either a bent or damaged flywheel or a bad torque converter but considering the previous problem with the trans throwing the solenoid codes and not going into gear I am definitely worried. I will have to do some further investigating and research.

CreepinDeth
06-09-2011, 05:35 PM
This thread is a life saver.....I forgot all about it.
I'm also presently doing an LY6 install into my 1970 442 clone.

I've been looking ALL OVER for the info on the Monte Carlo pedal to see if it was wired differently then a Corvette pedal or not.
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3224868#post3224868
GM wants $107 list price for JUST the pigtail for the Monte Carlo pedal. Talk about a little insane......just a weeee bit.

So I was going to order the EFI connection pigtail here. http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonnection/ItemDetails.aspx?ItemId=579
FOr $16 , you can't beat it. Just wasn't sure how it was supposed to be wired up exactly.

Can I ask you a few questions ??
#1. How did you mount the Monte Carlo pedal?? Any closer pics showing that ??
#2. What frame mounts and engine mounts did you use ??
Your engine looks like it sits VERY low and the truck intake amazingly looks like it's got a ton of room still.
You're not hitting the tie rods or anything ??

One more question
#3. That power steering pulley you put on instead, is it 5" in diameter to clear the steering box ??

bsharpe
06-09-2011, 08:34 PM
This thread is a life saver.....I forgot all about it.
I'm also presently doing an LY6 install into my 1970 442 clone.

I've been looking ALL OVER for the info on the Monte Carlo pedal to see if it was wired differently then a Corvette pedal or not.
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3224868#post3224868
GM wants $107 list price for JUST the pigtail for the Monte Carlo pedal. Talk about a little insane......just a weeee bit.

So I was going to order the EFI connection pigtail here. http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonnection/ItemDetails.aspx?ItemId=579
FOr $16 , you can't beat it. Just wasn't sure how it was supposed to be wired up exactly.

Can I ask you a few questions ??
#1. How did you mount the Monte Carlo pedal?? Any closer pics showing that ??
#2. What frame mounts and engine mounts did you use ??
Your engine looks like it sits VERY low and the truck intake amazingly looks like it's got a ton of room still.
You're not hitting the tie rods or anything ??

One more question
#3. That power steering pulley you put on instead, is it 5" in diameter to clear the steering box ??


I am using the Monte pedal GM Part #15831256
I ordered the wiring connector from Mouser pn# 829-15326830 it cost about $5.
I used this awesome diagram for most of the wiring http://cjnn.xtremefabricator.com/lsxtech/2007SilveradoLY6WiringHarnessSchematic.JPG.
The truck pedal like the one in the diagram has Pin D as white/black and F as Brown but the corvette and Monte Pedal are the opposite.

Mounting the pedal is very easy. It just has 2 bolts going though the firewall. i used the top left hole from the chevelle pedal and drilled another one for the bottom bolt in the Monte pedal.

I am using Stock SBC engine mounts with the edelbrock adapters. I had to use several washers to add clearance for the tie rods.
I love the truck intake. It fits the engine bay better and will perform better then the car intakes. The Abody cars can save a lot of money by using the truck accessories and intake but the appearance is not as clean.

FRENCHBLUE72
06-11-2011, 06:48 AM
Very good write up those gauges are pretty sweet looking cant wait to see how you integrate them into the stock dash.

CreepinDeth
06-13-2011, 01:48 AM
Thanks for all your info!!!! Very helpful.
That schematic is awesome. Saved.

bsharpe
06-13-2011, 04:53 PM
I installed new shocks and springs and put a few more miles on the chevelle this weekend. I am using adjustable shims/spacers on all 4 corners with 5 x 9.5 750# front springs and 5.5 x 11 Pigtail rear springs. I have matched these with afco’s racing stock mount shocks. 1021 in the front and 1030 in the rear. I feel that this is the best bang for the buck and will give me a great starting point.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img219.imageshack.us/i/imag0105m.jpg/)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img823.imageshack.us/i/imag0102sp.jpg/)


I use a homemade ball joint tool to safely and easily separate the tall ball joints from the spindle. It is simply a 2’ bolt and a coupling which you can get at any hardware store. I also put a smaller bolt in the other end of the coupling but the threads are not engaged and it spins freely. You place this tool between the ball joint studs with the castle nuts loosened but still on. Just turn the coupling lengthening the tool will put pressure on the ball joints until they separate with a pop. This method is cheap easy and does not damage the ball joint like a pickle fork can.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/863/imag0108l.jpg/)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/694/imag0110e.jpg/)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img860.imageshack.us/i/imag0111r.jpg/)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img231.imageshack.us/i/imag0112ms.jpg/)


As you might have noticed from the pictures I am staring my next project. I am going to replace the original vinyl top with a new black one. I also need to raise the font about an inch and try and level the car at all corners

68400BIRD
06-14-2011, 08:50 AM
Very impressive build. Way over my head. Good luck on the transmission problems.

LSfan70s
06-14-2011, 07:05 PM
I also was also able to wire up the bcm and gauge cluster I will get more information and all of the details later but everything seems to be functional like planned. I still have a lot of things to play with and add in the future. Here is a picture of everything lit up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/98/imag0077ga.jpg/)




Awesome project!
I was thinking about using a late stock cluster for my conversion too. Would you share any tips on how to to do that? Like what other parts should I grab from the car I'm getting the cluster from? Any cabling suggestion? Don't worry about getting techy, the most info the better :)

Subscribing :git:

CreepinDeth
06-20-2011, 12:16 AM
I have absolutely no idea how you got that pulley to work.
I ordered it from GM last week, and they told me it's been replaced by part #12607307 (http://paceperformance.com/i-6220166-12607307-pulley.html)
So I ordered it, and it was 5.5" in diameter, but no where NEAR the proper depth.
I can see by your picture yours wasn't either.

I was just 1 mm shy of making it to the proper depth point and the pulley bottomed out.
Had to use a 1/2" socket as a spacer to even get it that far down.
Plus i had to grind the bolts down around it to clear...

God help you if you have to remove it, because I just spent a few hours trying to get it off
today. The pulley removal tool won't reach it at the depth you have it.
Destroyed the pulley getting it back off with a harmonic balancer puller.

http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=217331


I also never mentioned that i swapped the power steering pulley with one from an inline 6 late 90's GM car. PN 10166335
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/703/imag0048dd.jpg/)

bsharpe
06-22-2011, 05:13 AM
I have absolutely no idea how you got that pulley to work.
I ordered it from GM last week, and they told me it's been replaced by part #12607307 (http://paceperformance.com/i-6220166-12607307-pulley.html)
So I ordered it, and it was 5.5" in diameter, but no where NEAR the proper depth.
I can see by your picture yours wasn't either.

I was just 1 mm shy of making it to the proper depth point and the pulley bottomed out.
Had to use a 1/2" socket as a spacer to even get it that far down.
Plus i had to grind the bolts down around it to clear...

God help you if you have to remove it, because I just spent a few hours trying to get it off
today. The pulley removal tool won't reach it at the depth you have it.
Destroyed the pulley getting it back off with a harmonic balancer puller.

http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=217331

I am sorry you are having so much trouble. The pulley you got is clearly different then mine. I had pressed it on further then normal but I did not have clearance problems with the bolts. I personally think 1mm is close enough. I need to check mine to see if it is actually aligned or a little off like yours. I had got the pulley from a pick n pull for $5 so I am very happy with the results.

bsharpe
06-22-2011, 05:30 AM
Awesome project!
I was thinking about using a late stock cluster for my conversion too. Would you share any tips on how to to do that? Like what other parts should I grab from the car I'm getting the cluster from? Any cabling suggestion? Don't worry about getting techy, the most info the better :)

Subscribing :git:

Sorry I missed your post. If you are using a 4th gen engine (58 reluctor) you need the bcm and cluster and I recommend the dash wiring harness.

All of the stock sensors are wired to the PCM then the data is sent to the BCM across the high speed gmlan network. The BCM then converts the data and it is sent across the low speed can network which the cluster connects to.

The BCM also controls the cruise control, charging system and much more. I think it should be included in all 4th gen swaps.

LSfan70s
06-23-2011, 09:13 AM
Sorry I missed your post. If you are using a 4th gen engine (58 reluctor) you need the bcm and cluster and I recommend the dash wiring harness.

All of the stock sensors are wired to the PCM then the data is sent to the BCM across the high speed gmlan network. The BCM then converts the data and it is sent across the low speed can network which the cluster connects to.

The BCM also controls the cruise control, charging system and much more. I think it should be included in all 4th gen swaps.

Thanks so much! It does not sound that complicated.

And what about using a BCM and cluster from a IV gen with a III gen PCM? (With custom harness of course) Are the IV and III gen PCM different enough to make this impossible?

TheBandit
07-05-2011, 08:21 AM
Great work bsharpe! Glad the wiring diagram helped. It originally came from "buddyholly" who I believe pasted it together from some Mitchell diagrams. He sent it to me and I hosted it on my site. Wiring is a long ways off for my LY6 swap, but having the diagram in my hands makes me feel a lot more comfortable about hooking it up. I do wish I had some functional desciptions for some of the pins, especially those related to the AC system. Have you found any good resources for that?

Here is a good list of the E38 pinouts to go with that diagram.
http://www.lt1swap.com/E38%20ECM%20Connector%20Pinouts.htm

bsharpe
07-06-2011, 09:01 AM
Thanks so much! It does not sound that complicated.

And what about using a BCM and cluster from a IV gen with a III gen PCM? (With custom harness of course) Are the IV and III gen PCM different enough to make this impossible?the gen 3 PCM will not be able to communicate on the high speed gm LAN network. It will not work.


Great work bsharpe! Glad the wiring diagram helped. It originally came from "buddyholly" who I believe pasted it together from some Mitchell diagrams. He sent it to me and I hosted it on my site. Wiring is a long ways off for my LY6 swap, but having the diagram in my hands makes me feel a lot more comfortable about hooking it up. I do wish I had some functional desciptions for some of the pins, especially those related to the AC system. Have you found any good resources for that?

Here is a good list of the E38 pinouts to go with that diagram.
http://www.lt1swap.com/E38%20ECM%20Connector%20Pinouts.htm the wiring diagram helped a lot but I had to pay for a week subscription of repairprocedures.com. I saved almost all the files I thought I might need. You will probably wan't to do the same. I also had the Cadillac dealership print several diagrams for me.

jaeris
07-28-2011, 12:05 PM
Hey Bsharpe,
what did you do for a fuel pump and filter assembly on the ly6? I am curious to know since I am doing a similar thing in my 64 pickup? Did you use the factory pump or go another route?

thanks
Sean

bsharpe
07-28-2011, 05:23 PM
Hey Bsharpe,
what did you do for a fuel pump and filter assembly on the ly6? I am curious to know since I am doing a similar thing in my 64 pickup? Did you use the factory pump or go another route?

thanks
Sean

I am using a sumped tank from a 95 caprice, a modifed pump assembly with 255 walbro pump and a corvette FPR/filter.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/23/dscn0615l.jpg/)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/64/ls1015.jpg/)


The LY6 is like all other LS engines and needs about 58 PSI at the rails.

jaeris
07-28-2011, 05:33 PM
Hey Besharpe,
Awe3some that is good to know i am doing a little bit similar setup. am working on getting a decent pump with an line connections, have my corvette fpr/filter, and a 30 gallon rectanlge tank for my bed. My mechanic friend kept insisting on needing the factory pump??! You have not had any problems with leky injectors or blown seals have you?
thanks
sean

bsharpe
07-29-2011, 11:27 AM
Hey Besharpe,
Awe3some that is good to know i am doing a little bit similar setup. am working on getting a decent pump with an line connections, have my corvette fpr/filter, and a 30 gallon rectanlge tank for my bed. My mechanic friend kept insisting on needing the factory pump??! You have not had any problems with leky injectors or blown seals have you?
thanks
sean

I removed all of the chevelles fuel system so everything is set up for the higher pressure. If you plan on cornering with the truck I would recommend contacting vaporworx or ricks hot rod shop

jaeris
07-29-2011, 01:01 PM
Hey Bsharpe,
Naahhhh building a tow rig for the moment. Might do some performance stuff later on down the road when I have a nother rig built for towing. But for now going to be hauling a 20 foot enclosed for my wife miata and motorcycle while we trave l the country.

Thanks
Sean

bsharpe
09-08-2011, 05:44 PM
Since my last update I finished installing the vinyl top. The install was time consuming but turned out pretty good. It was a cheap reproduction top with some flaws. I had to cut and make my own piece for under the rear window.


With the top installed and all trim mirrors and handles finally installed I started to drive the chevelle. I have had no major issues or problems but there are several things I would like to address.

The most important being some wiring changes. The transmission grinding and inconsistency is caused when I cycle the ignition it loses power and goes into limp home mode. I am going to add a separate relay triggered from the ecm for the tcm ignition wire.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/59/imag0251v.jpg/)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/703/imag0243q.jpg/)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/685/imag0206q.jpg/)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/52/imag0208e.jpg/)

Motown 454
09-08-2011, 06:14 PM
Looking good!

FRENCHBLUE72
09-09-2011, 01:54 PM
Looks great....Lets get some burn out shots...

mikesz
12-19-2011, 06:55 AM
My ly6 6l90E is being pulled from the donor vehicle sometime this week. I want to use the BCM for cruise and possibly a few other things as I learn more. I will be running my factory gauges which will hopefully simplify a few things. Is there anything else I should ask for besides the BCM with the connector and pigtail?

Mike

bsharpe
12-20-2011, 01:05 PM
My ly6 6l90E is being pulled from the donor vehicle sometime this week. I want to use the BCM for cruise and possibly a few other things as I learn more. I will be running my factory gauges which will hopefully simplify a few things. Is there anything else I should ask for besides the BCM with the connector and pigtail?

Mike

I would recommend getting as much of the uncut wiring as possible. Especially the dash wiring harness. It will be easier to use it as a starting put and just remove what you do not want.

I have to apologize, this thread is well overdue of an update which includes a lot of driving, autocrossing, and a new transmission.

SShep71
04-25-2012, 12:17 PM
What did the trans problem turn out to be? How much ground clearance did you wind up with at the trans pan?

GoldHawg
07-16-2012, 04:36 AM
I am using the Monte pedal GM Part #15831256
I ordered the wiring connector from Mouser pn# 829-15326830 it cost about $5.
I used this awesome diagram for most of the wiring http://cjnn.xtremefabricator.com/lsxtech/2007SilveradoLY6WiringHarnessSchematic.JPG.
The truck pedal like the one in the diagram has Pin D as white/black and F as Brown but the corvette and Monte Pedal are the opposite.


I have the same problem on my 71 cutlass; code 2138 w/2010 L96 (ly6) using a monte pedal. Just found this post and am trying to swap the pins per your recco. The connector is quite a bit smaller than typical weatherpacks; not sure how to release the pin. I tried putting a paperclip in the hole next to it, but it doesn't seem to want to release, although w/small wire I'm afraid to pull too hard. Any advise?6209862099

12sec ss
07-16-2012, 05:23 AM
I have the same problem on my 71 cutlass; code 2138 w/2010 L96 (ly6) using a monte pedal. Just found this post and am trying to swap the pins per your recco. The connector is quite a bit smaller than typical weatherpacks; not sure how to release the pin. I tried putting a paperclip in the hole next to it, but it doesn't seem to want to release, although w/small wire I'm afraid to pull too hard. Any advise?6209862099

You need to take the purple part off the connector. The way you are holding it, it will come out straight towards you.

CarlC
07-16-2012, 10:05 PM
What he said.

Use a small flat blade screwdriver to pry up the purple part away from the plug body. Once you get that off you can release the terminals by prying on a small fishhook catch.

Make sure that the Terminal Position Assurance clip is removed from around the entrance to the wires into the plug body. It will be a different color than the plug body. It may not have one at all.

Delphi makes a tool that inserts into the smaller hole on the end.

Chevellez
05-23-2023, 01:22 AM
Man this thread is a life saver ! I’m currently putting in 6.0 6l90 in my 72 Chevelle and I couldn’t find information anywhere but here !