B-body spindles on my '68 Chevelle

[cecilgordon]

I'm planning to install '77-'95 B-body spindles, rotors & calipers on my '68 Chevelle for better stopping & better handling. Questions: 1. Can I stil use the stock UCA's with the taller spindles (even though they're ugly - until I get some $$)? If so, will I need to use offset cross shafts to get near proper alignment? Will tall (Howe) lower BJs, along with the tall spindles help with negative camber , or will that be too much? Thanks for the help!

[Derek69SS]

B-body spindles don't need any more height... if Howe tall-balljoints are in the budget, use them with your STOCK spindles to fix the camber-curve without all the problems caused by the steer arm location of the B-body spindle.

[Yelcamino]

B-body spindles don't need any more height... if Howe tall-balljoints are in the budget, use them with your STOCK spindles to fix the camber-curve without all the problems caused by the steer arm location of the B-body spindle.

Not trying to take over this thread, but I have two nearly identical A-bodies, one with the complete Global West Negative Roll system (B-body spindles) and one with the SC&C/ATS system. I've heard all the stories about how the B-body spindle causes handling problems, but I have to disagree. In fact, I'd say both cars handle pretty equal to each other. The biggest issue with the B-body spindle on the A-body is the turning radius is much larger, which could cause problems trying to turn the car around in tight spots. I haven't experienced the dreaded bump steer on my B-body spindle equipped A-body.

A nice benefit of the B-body spindle swap is you can get 12" brakes from the junkyard for a fraction of the cost of aftermarket brake setups. For the budget minded, this is a great way to improve handling and braking without depleting your kids' college funds.

The down side is it's best to get GW UCAs ($$) so you can properly align the front end.

[cecilgordon]

Thanks, guys. The objective is getting inexpensive disc brakes & the B-body upgrade seems the easiest & cheapest. The level of my ambition & size of my wallet are complete opposites, that's why I'm willing to work with junkyard parts. I appreciate the input!

[HWYSTR]

You can grind the stop pad down on the F/B-spindle to regain the turning radius, fyi.

As for bump steer, it's there, just have to be in the right situation to 'experience' it. Like a sweeping turn at speed as the front end articulates up & down. You have to provide steering input to correct your path. This too can be corrected, with like Baer Trackers, if you choose. I personally am aware of the effects, and can 'correct' as needed with steering input.

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[Derek69SS]

This too can be corrected, with like Baer Trackers, if you choose.Those don't work on a Chevelle... they only allow adjustment in the wrong direction (downward)... The A-bodies need the pivot moved UPWARD to correct bumpsteer.

The turning radius issue is on an A-body is not caused by the stops, it's caused by the length of the steer arm... they're too long, which also slows the steering ratio.

[HWYSTR]

Interesting, thank you for the clarification Derek! I was speaking from what others have said, in my particular application(s) I've used f spindles, and only noticed the bumpsteer issue, not the turning radius issue. Maybe I just didn't notice, and it does exist. For me, I've learned to cope with the way the suspensions I had done the swap on drove, and just left it at that. The handling improvement was enough for me to not consider going back. I have always swapped to faster ratio boxes at the same time, maybe that overcame some of the problem with the slowing of the steering?