primer steps????

[tb8125]

Well let me know if I got this right
1: Etch prime
2: Bodywork
3:High build prime
4: Block
5:Sealer/Primer


I am doing bodywork now

[dhutton]

I think most use epoxy instead of etch primer but let's see what the experts have to say.

[Satatic]

Etch is old tech and its actually not compatible with body filler. It will react. Its kinda like lacquer primer, you can still buy it but do you really want it?

Epoxy
Filler
Epoxy
High-build
Sealer/Epoxy either is fine
Topcoat

But in the real world Filler and epoxy like to do an encore appearance. So dont worry to much if you have to add those two steps more than thrice. I didnt know thrice was a real word until now.

[justasquid]

It probably depends on what you mean by bodywork. If you mean filler, then expoxy comes first. If you mean dent repair, welding, patching.... then epoxy should come after heavy repair, but before filler like suggested already.

I've never done an additional epoxy over the filler work, just a high build primer. then I seal it all after everything blocked out. But it's probably not a bad way to go to make sure everything is sealed.

For me,
bodywork, (heavy bodywork, patchwork, welding, dent removal...ect)
epoxy
filler
high build ( several coats, blocked smooth)
sealer
topcoat.

But take it for whats its worth. Im not a professional painter. I only do it as a hobby. But I do get good long lasting results.

[elitecustombody]

Do not apply filler over acid-etch primer. It will re-activate/soften it and you will not be able to feather the edge. I'd advise reading all tech sheets on your primers before application, some primers can and will react with acid-etch primer. Some brands recommend using etching primer before epoxy, some will advise to use epoxy right over bare metal. I prefer using etching primer before epoxy.

Whatever you do, do not skim your car with filler and cover it with primer, seal metal with epoxy or etching primer and epoxy prior the application of filer,it will block moisture from getting under filler which can absorb it like a sponge causing rust,then seal the filler with epoxy followed by high build primer. Keep in mind, that most epoxies have a window of up to a week(check tech sheet on your brand),which alows you to topcoat it without the need of sanding or scuffing,so after shooting epoxy, you can skim the car next day with filler or shooting high-build primer without sanding the epoxy.Than can save hours.

[tb8125]

I have valspar epoxy primer/sealer.... on the data sheet it states Do Not Apply Over Self Etching Primers
I was going to use nason as my etch primer.... Do you guys think this would be safe to use the etch prime 1st then the high build (also nason) and finish it all off with they epoxy/sealer primer (valspar)

[dhutton]

I have valspar epoxy primer/sealer.... on the data sheet it states Do Not Apply Over Self Etching Primers
I was going to use nason as my etch primer.... Do you guys think this would be safe to use the etch prime 1st then the high build (also nason) and finish it all off with they epoxy/sealer primer (valspar)

I am guessing that you will break through that high build primer in multiple locations which means you will have problems when you apply the epoxy. Why don't you find an etch primer and epoxy that are compatible with each other if that is the way you want to go? I think you are looking for trouble with your current proposal...

[Satatic]

You are going to find that a lot of mfgs say do not use over etch. In time I am expecting all mfgs to have a statement like that. You are taking a chance by using etch.

[elitecustombody]

Either get Nason epoxy if they make it to go over their etching primer or don't use Valspar etching primer ,just shoot Valspar epoxy over metal,if it's DTM (direct to metal) epoxy, as dh said, if you bust through the Nason primer surfacer junk,you'll have problems.

Always try to stick with one brand primers,sealers and make sure they are compatible to eliminate nightmares ,this is the most important step for a quality long lasting paint job,because everything relies on the foundation and if you're in doubt,that can not be a good foundation.

If you want a good quality primers,look into Sherwin Williams Dimension line,their etching and epoxy primers are very affordable, easy to work with and yield great results

[tb8125]

I am going to follow the advice given by you guys... I am going to ditch the etch prime and the valspar epoxy... I going to stick with the same paint system... I want to use a Nason® Ful-Fill™ 421-40™ Polyester Spray Filler (Gray) is this the same as a high build primer

[elitecustombody]

So you want to use it right over bare metal?

[Satatic]

If you use poly primer it does need sealed. Filler and poly primer are the same.
Epoxy
filler
epoxy
poly-primer
sealer/epoxy

You can do:
epoxy
filler
poly-primer
sealer/epoxy

But no need to chance it.

My personal opinion is it better than high build urethane primer. I like to be able to do all my blocking start to finish without worrying about burning through. If I use urethane high build I am pretty much guaranteeing that I will re-spray 10 times. Poly I can put on 3 coats and start out with 120 and go up to 320. Put on 3 coats of epoxy and wetsand with 400 and ready to topcoat.

[tb8125]

No am going to use the epoxy 1st basically follow the steps Satatic posted... next question will the poly take the place of metal glaze... As you guys can see I am very new to this bodywork part this is what I hane done so far

1 stripped to bare metal (use 80 gritt and 180)
2 welded in my few patches (floors and fender patches)
3 pulled all the dings (filled with filler sand with 40 80 and 220)
now I am at the primer part (The car was pretty straight when I got it but still needs work) any other pointer would help

[Satatic]

The poly is like taking filler and spreading a perfect even coat across the whole panel. I am sure you have seen them do that on TV. To much work. You should not need any type of glaze. You dont want to spray poly into jambs or into pinchweld areas. You want to tape those off. Otherwise your fingertips will suffer.

I think the minimum tip for poly is like 2mm. I think I use a 2.2 and its still to small. I have to thin. You want to use contrasting colors of epoxy and poly. The poly should be heavily Sanded. At least until you can faintly see the epoxy underneath. I am not sure about your poly but I know with slick sand it never needed a guide coat, you could just tell by color where low spots were.

Poly does not spray fast. So make sure you start out spraying the areas that are a far reach first otherwise your arm and shoulder are going to be in pain. I never do a whole lot of panels at once. The biggest thing I did was the exterior shell of my camaro, quarters and roof etc. Everything I couldnt remove. I just wanted to die when I was finally done.

Don't wetsand the poly. The instructions probably say you can but its another risk you just dont want to take.

I am concerned about your patches. If you put filler directly over them I would suggest grinding them out and coating with epoxy then redoing it cause there could be microscopic pinholes.