channeling in the subframe first gen camaro

[overZealous1]

curious if anyone has done this? problem i am having is i am going to be running 19x10 and 20x13 wheels and want to set my ride height at about 2.5-3" at the lowest part of the car. with my springs out and the frame sitting on jacks to set ride height, my upper a-arms are at about a 40 degree angle. my camber settings are maxed out and still sitting about -4 or so degrees camber. it's about 1/2" off the bump stops also.
i need to get my suspension back, but want the body sitting low. i will try removing my solid body mounts first, but i know i will have to raise the trans tunnel for clearance. running an tt ls2 with a viper t56. that will get a little bit back, but if not enough, channeling is my only option.

anyone got pics?

[Mr.VENGEANCE]

you should pick up Jakes Rod Shop front subframe.. it is MADE to sit rediculously low.. but still has very good suspension geometry..

ive seen a few cars with it first hand.. and its like you channeled the body over the subframe.. VERY low..

it be worth the moola..

[parsonsj]

4.5" is about the absolute minimum for street driving. If you go lower than that, the car will eventually clearance itself. :)

jp

[elitecustombody]

Lol @ John's clearance comment .Vinny, are you talking about 2.5-3" ground clearance at oil pan,headers or rocker panels?Cause you'd have to channel pretty deep for oil pan and headers to be even with rockers. I may be going that direction on my 69 Firebird

[overZealous1]

ya, 4.5" is ready for offroad! lol. i cruise the viper at about 2.25" off the ground at the front splitter. can't fit my toe under the front, and the front overhang on a viper is like 3'!! in other words, i am very experienced with low cars. always put a strong flexible splitter (and easily made and replaceable too) on and it will cut roadkill in 2! my 350Z was the lowest at about 1.5" on the splitter.

basically the frame rails to be at 2.5-3". i think i can live with 3" cause the wheels are so tall for a first gen, and with the body kit and flares, i can manipulate the tuck a little and have my fender line tuck about 2-3" worth of the wheels. will give the appearance of being on the ground. setting the side skirts a touch above frame height and adding 1/4" teflon strips to the bottom of the frame to "slide" over stuff. making a 1/4" skid plate that will go from the main front crossmember and bolt to the trans to protect the oil pan. will even be lifting the engine a little for more clearance. exhaust will be oval tube, that if i channel the frame, i can probably run down the trans tunnel to boom tubes only 1.5" thick out the sides. going twin turbo, so no headers to drop down. told ya i've done this before. lol

i looked at it more today and i think just removing the body bushings, lifting the trans tunnel to clear the t56 and relocating or making a new upper control arm mount is going to be my best, easiest, and cheapest option. will remove the mounts, cut the tunnel, raise the engine, and see if i have to change the upper mount.
i have the choice of 2 front spring rates. linear 700lb in, and slightly progressive 550lb in. with the 700lb ones (which are matched to the 350lb rears for a touch of oversteer handling) i will not have alot of suspension movement and hopefully keep me off the bump stops. 1 1/8th front sway bar also. think my only worry will be bending wheels, hahaa.

[overZealous1]

btw elite, if your looking for some different wheels for that supra, check the classified. got a set for ya, lol

[overZealous1]

this is the kind of low i am going for. wheels will be spaced out abit plus top will pop out once upper arm is reset. so they won't tuck in the stock fenders. flares will be made and the new flares will tuck it similar though.

[elitecustombody]

I don't even see a reason for channeling if that's where you want it to sit,

I'd have to check if the backspacing will work,not ideal sizes,but we'll see . I'm starting to build two widebody Supras

[Gitter Dun]

I plan on channeling mine as soon as I have the funds cuz I cant weld for crap. My subframe currently sits 3 3/4" off the ground and the bottom of my rocker panel is about 6" off the ground. Whats nice about dropping body is keeping suspension travel. Would like to run rocker skirts flush with bottom of subframe. I am going to raise my radiator support mounts 2", drop the mid mount 1 1/2", and run the rear of the subframe bottom flush to the bottom of my DSE subframe connectors. Going with 18x10.5 wheels with 6.5" back space on all fours. Hoping to squeeze 315's all the way around and so far looks like I may have to stretch panels about an inch or so. Front inner fender wells will have to be shaved where they meet the subframe. Also need to check if your existing air cleaner set up will allow for the hood coming down. If you are running an LS your most likely OK. May have to channel for headers and go to square exhaust, smaller diameter brake booster also(will hit valve cover). Steering knuckles from rack-n-pinion should allow for the drop.

Definitely doable.

[killer69]

Theses 2 have 19 x 10 and 20 x 12 both still have the body mounts in them, unless your going to tub the front and remove the hood hinges i don't know if you could actually go much lower.
the sub frame is 3.5" off the ground

[overZealous1]

i am more worried about a-arm angles. i ran my suspension through a live simulator and i am gaining like 1 degree (iirc) negative camber per inch upwards, and going positive at about half that rate on droop. my suspension will be stiff though. even lifting it an inch from the pic on the suspension to see where i would be with removing the body bushings, i am still at -1 degree camber with no adjustment left to correct caster. i think i can live with the car at that height (3.5" off the frame) and look, but i am going to need to raise trans tunnel, and either fab up new longer a-arms, or move my upper mounts. the latter being probably the best option.
i am trying to tuck atleast 1.5" of wheel (not tire) in the openings. will be making flares and sides for the car, so i can still manipulate the look with the body work. hold the sides about 1/2" higher than the frame rails and sub connectors and it will look dumped but still have decent clearance.

[MuscleRodz]

i am more worried about a-arm angles. i ran my suspension through a live simulator and i am gaining like 1 degree (iirc) negative camber per inch upwards, and going positive at about half that rate on droop. my suspension will be stiff though. even lifting it an inch from the pic on the suspension to see where i would be with removing the body bushings, i am still at -1 degree camber with no adjustment left to correct caster. i think i can live with the car at that height (3.5" off the frame) and look, but i am going to need to raise trans tunnel, and either fab up new longer a-arms, or move my upper mounts. the latter being probably the best option.
i am trying to tuck atleast 1.5" of wheel (not tire) in the openings. will be making flares and sides for the car, so i can still manipulate the look with the body work. hold the sides about 1/2" higher than the frame rails and sub connectors and it will look dumped but still have decent clearance.

you will not be able to tuck that much wheel with doing away with factory hood hinges, inner fenders, structure spot welded to the fender. We are doing this to N-XSS right now. Everything channeled and level or above pinch welds. Will set about 3" on bump stops, no way you will be able to drive that low on the streets

[Gitter Dun]

I cant relate to the control arm issue. Dont see how dropping the body of the car will affect suspension.

[ProdigyCustoms]

Unfortunatly 67 / 68s with the big round wheel openings do not look very low as it is so hard to tuck tire on one of these where a 69 with the squared off wheel openings looks way lower.

You can't do what your trying to do, first off you can't get a early Camaro to 2 1/2 to 3" no matter what you do,. Second as mentioned the hood hinges will be a problem. More importantly the suspension geometry as you mentioned will be wacked to say the least and on the bump stops..

Only way to get a really big drop is to build a custom front subframe (or full frame) with a lot of upsweep in the rails, and then you have to worry about keeping the motor under the hood.

Project Prodigy is a full frame car Channel 5" from stock with a 5 1/2" rocker height and JUST is able to keep the hood hinges. 1/4" more drop and those are gone.

Unfortunatly 67 / 68s with the big round wheel openings do not look very low as it is so hard to tuck tire on one of these where a 69 with the squared off wheel openings looks way lower

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Here is a 5" channel. Nothing hanging under the car. Damn that crooked rocker molding drove me nuts!

[twosaturns]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Here is a 5" channel. Nothing hanging under the car. Damn that crooked rocker molding drove me nuts!
this whole car looks whacked! the rocker trim is all crooked and misaligned, and what's up w/ the RS grille? it looks like someone backed up into it!

[overZealous1]

with the flaring work and side pods i can manipulate my wheel well openings and the rocker height. i will probably run 3.5" off the lowest part of the car. whatever mods it takes, is just whats gonna happen. already planned on trimming the inside of the fender, stock fender wells were not going to be used and either fabbing my own or just running without all together. stock hinges should be fine. 700lb an inch lineal rate front springs and 1 1/8th sway bar, so suspension is not going to be moving much at all.

[Denvervet]

this whole car looks whacked! the rocker trim is all crooked and misaligned, and what's up w/ the RS grille? it looks like someone backed up into it!

Whoa...down boy. That's his car and is a very nice ride. Without looking close would be hard to explain why it looks like that. Not to mention sometimes it is darn tough to get all panels to line up perfectly. If you can do it better then .....do it . Sorry but this isn't the place to be dissing peoples' cars.

[Gitter Dun]

I about flipped out when I first seen this post. I thought of channeling mine and talked to my fab guys about this a month ago. I got the idea from a photo that was taken of my '69 and a Z06 at Buttonwillow. I noticed that the Z06 body sat alot lower than my '69.

I have this retarded idea that after enough modifications I will beat one around the track some day with stock subframe and leafs. I'm about 5 or 6 seconds slower right now.

I wouldn't worry so much about the 700 lb spring rate. I've run 650 and 700 lb back and forth for years and it doesn't bother me. If your running a stock subframe the higher the spring rate the better for cornering anyway due to frame flex. If it were me I'd keep the fender wells to keep debri from getting into the engine compartment.

Looking forward to seeing you do it.

[overZealous1]

ya, will probably do something. but with the turbo's, and front bracing, and modifying the fenders with flares, the stockers will take way to much modification to get to work. i will try it, but all the other stuff will take presidence.

[overZealous1]

Unfortunatly 67 / 68s with the big round wheel openings do not look very low as it is so hard to tuck tire on one of these where a 69 with the squared off wheel openings looks way lower.

You can't do what your trying to do, first off you can't get a early Camaro to 2 1/2 to 3" no matter what you do,. Second as mentioned the hood hinges will be a problem. More importantly the suspension geometry as you mentioned will be wacked to say the least and on the bump stops..

Only way to get a really big drop is to build a custom front subframe (or full frame) with a lot of upsweep in the rails, and then you have to worry about keeping the motor under the hood.

Project Prodigy is a full frame car Channel 5" from stock with a 5 1/2" rocker height and JUST is able to keep the hood hinges. 1/4" more drop and those are gone.

Unfortunatly 67 / 68s with the big round wheel openings do not look very low as it is so hard to tuck tire on one of these where a 69 with the squared off wheel openings looks way lower

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Here is a 5" channel. Nothing hanging under the car. Damn that crooked rocker molding drove me nuts!


so frank, did you guys just weld the subframe up into the chassis? or, weld in a 3 sided box so it could still bolt in and out?

[marolf101x]

I have my 68 set up pretty low:
43449
(http://projectawdcamaro.com/images/Rear%20Chassis%20Fab/large%20images/front_ride_height1L.jpg)

However, it's a full custom frame (C5 Vette suspension), there's a 2X4 cut into the rockers, and the lowest part of the car is 5" off the ground.
The fender must be heavily modified by removing the entire inner structure to allow for suspension compression. I prefer a spring rate that feels "sporty" but won't make you pee blood if you drive it too far! I still wanted 5 inches of total suspension travel capability.

[TitoJones]

Frank's car is a full frame with Corvette stuff; the amount of work to do this channeling properly negates the reason to even use a factory frame. Might as well go for the most you can if you start cutting and welding.

My car isn't even at ride height in the front (it's about 1.5" high), and it has (I'm guessing here) a roof to ground height of 47 inches, and at least 5 inches of ground clearance. The car is full tube chassis with all C5 stuff including rear mounted transaxle.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/ShopPicsJanuary2011009-1.jpg

Tyler

[shmoov69]

Well, I measured mine last night, the exhaust (pretty much the entire length) is at 1 3/4" off the ground and the subframe is at 2 1/4" off the ground and has been driven MANY, MANY miles in the last 20 or so years that way!!

I'm anxious to see what you are going to do with this project!

[Gitter Dun]

Well, I measured mine last night, the exhaust (pretty much the entire length) is at 1 3/4" off the ground and the subframe is at 2 1/4" off the ground and has been driven MANY, MANY miles in the last 20 or so years that way!!

I'm anxious to see what you are going to do with this project!

Your subframe is 2 1/4" off the ground? Is suspension travel OK? Can you show some pics and give some details on suspension set up?

[shmoov69]

No, the travel sucks!! The angles are prolly all wrong and there isn't hardly any weight transfer at the dragstrip also!!
Buuuuuut, it looks good!!!! LOL!!!

The front suspension is basicly stock rebuilt with poly bushings and solid upper bushings (because the turbo heat would melt others). Custom springs from DSE, but it wasn't low enough so I screwed them up and cut them a little more! Bigger sway bar. I had to cut the snubbers waaay down for any clearance and what little travel there is.

Does it work well? I don't really know because I haven't driven anything else that does work well. And nobody else has driven this that really knows. It did decent (I think) at the MMCC last year. It pushes pretty bad when your on the gas, but I am thinking that most of that is the locker rear.

It could prolly use a better setup, but I'm not a good enough driver to know the difference! Lol

[Gitter Dun]

LOL, you are too funny. Hey, if you like the way my car sits PM me and I'll give you details on set up. Ride is not bad and it handles pretty decent. Or maybe I just dont know the difference either, LOL.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/Anthonysgraduation0021-1.jpg

[overZealous1]

been pretty dam cold around here and since i work outside also, i pretty much just want to be warm when i get home and not in the garage!! haha
ordering the flares on monday and once they get here can start mocking them up. they are from the buddy club2 body kit for a nissan 350z. lots of material to work with and hell, for $380 shipped for all four, its hard to go wrong with them. front and sides will be from vfn fiberglass. their pro mod kit. car should be pretty wild when done.
may have some time on tuesday to cut out fenders and trans tunnel to remove body bushings. think i will keep the frame at about 3.5" off the ground.

[Gitter Dun]

3.5" sounds like a good number to shoot for. What control arms are you going to use? Another option would be to cut an inch off the top of the subframe the entire length of the subframe where the body rests to eliminate the amount of subframe channel in the body. Frame rails seem deep enough to be able to get away with it to me. What kind of front spring set up are you going to use?

[elitecustombody]

Cutting an inch off the top of the subframe will weaken it ,I'd just cut and raise the floor.We all would love to see pictures of that subframe 2 1/4 inch off the ground .

Scott,I take it you were able to get a hold of Buddy Club 2 guys?

[MuscleRodz]

3.5" sounds like a good number to shoot for. What control arms are you going to use? Another option would be to cut an inch off the top of the subframe the entire length of the subframe where the body rests to eliminate the amount of subframe channel in the body. Frame rails seem deep enough to be able to get away with it to me. What kind of front spring set up are you going to use?

we did this on NXSS, but we are building a completely new reinforced floor and down bars up front with hidden cage inside. I would not reccomend doing it on a stock car.

[MrQuick]

Cutting an inch off the top of the subframe will weaken it well now that would depend on how you put it back together. done right can be much stronger than the stock configuration.

[DarkoNova]

been pretty dam cold around here and since i work outside also, i pretty much just want to be warm when i get home and not in the garage!! haha
ordering the flares on monday and once they get here can start mocking them up. they are from the buddy club2 body kit for a nissan 350z. lots of material to work with and hell, for $380 shipped for all four, its hard to go wrong with them. front and sides will be from vfn fiberglass. their pro mod kit. car should be pretty wild when done.
may have some time on tuesday to cut out fenders and trans tunnel to remove body bushings. think i will keep the frame at about 3.5" off the ground.

Wait, so you're getting a 350z kit to put on the Camaro? Assuming you're just going to cut the crap out of it and make it fit, then?

[overZealous1]

ya stephan, looks like i got them on the cheap too. looked up the pics and ya, they are a great piece to start working with. much better than the veilside ones.

[overZealous1]

Wait, so you're getting a 350z kit to put on the Camaro? Assuming you're just going to cut the crap out of it and make it fit, then?

uber cutting the hell out of it. it is only the flares though for a widebody 350z. the wheel well openings will already be set up for pretty much the diameter of wheels/tires i am using. tons of material to work with also where they return to the bottom of the car. don't want the eyebrow flared look. trying to make the 67 body look fat. looks too skinny with how much the body rolls back under imo. so will be building out the sill area inbetween the flares with the vfn kit designed for the camaro.
i can modify the vfn kit to sit just a touch higher than my frame rails and really make the car look slammed.


or it will all look like **** and i will have a pile of fiberglass hitting the trash!! hahahah

[overZealous1]

3.5" sounds like a good number to shoot for. What control arms are you going to use? Another option would be to cut an inch off the top of the subframe the entire length of the subframe where the body rests to eliminate the amount of subframe channel in the body. Frame rails seem deep enough to be able to get away with it to me. What kind of front spring set up are you going to use?

yaknow, this does sound like an interesting idea. maybe to simplify it even more, just cut off the front portion of the rails and weld in a 4x2 1/4" wall tube (2" would be height) and weld back on front rails with side gussets on it. be pretty clean and fast. would still be removable too.

[Gitter Dun]

If I understand you correctly the only problem with that is you still have the rear of the subframe in the same location under the body which could give you clearance problems. I vote for channelling the body and raising the subframe. I dont know what a '68 is like but my '69 can get away with 1 1/2". That will put me at 4 1/2" rocker height. I'd like more but then were talking about flares like the Gulf '68 Camaro and I want to be more subtle looking.

[Nessumsar]

On my 3rd gen Nova (same front sub) I am in the process of modifing my front suspension pivot points in conjunction with lowering. At ride height the sub should be 3.75" off the ground, couple that with no body bushings, and tall LBJs; I should be tucking the entire sidewall on my 315s.

I will be starting a build thread this weekend, I'll keep you posted.

[shmoov69]

We all would love to see pictures of that subframe 2 1/4 inch off the ground .


Since there appears to be doubt, here are a couple pics, and I stand corrected, it is 2 1/2" without a person and almost empty on fuel.
:cheers:

[DEIGuy38]

I saw a 69 at pleasanton a few years ago where the guy Zd the front subframe. He cut the subframe right in front of the firewall and raised the front up about 4" and boxed and plated everything in. I didnt get pics but the car was in the weeds.

[Gitter Dun]

I saw a 69 at pleasanton a few years ago where the guy Zd the front subframe. He cut the subframe right in front of the firewall and raised the front up about 4" and boxed and plated everything in. I didnt get pics but the car was in the weeds.

Couple things I dont like about that. One, how strong could it possibly be and for how long, and two, that still leaves the rear of the frame in the same location and creates clearance problems.

[overZealous1]

well decided to do a 350z rearend, so i will be doing lots of cutting anyways. will be delving back into the channeling subject again. i have a 4" cowl induction scoop, so engine should clear, but i may need to relocate turbos. again!! ugggh

[exwestracer]

well decided to do a 350z rearend, so i will be doing lots of cutting anyways. will be delving back into the channeling subject again. i have a 4" cowl induction scoop, so engine should clear, but i may need to relocate turbos. again!! ugggh

Vinny,
I did a thread a couple years ago about putting a 350Z rear under a 2nd gen. We were originally going to use the stock rear subframe, but elected to go with a full rect frame. It was a LOT easier. The student is a member on here but doesn't post much. Search for username Macadoo if you want to check it out.

[exwestracer]

Vinny,
I realized I hadn't started the thread. Here's the link: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.php?68335-2nd-Gen-IRS/page3

If you plan on ditching the factory Nissan cradle, you may have better luck working with the stock rear subframe. It doesn't lend itself to installing the whole package, though...

[overZealous1]

ya ray, i did look that thread up again yesterday. it is about as simple an install as you can get for an independant rear, and have been toying with the idea for about a year. i used to own a built motor twin turbo nitroused 350z. i know the rear can handle an 8.90 pass and axles are available up to a 1000hp version. brakes are plentiful for aftermarket, and so is parts.
my plan is to just get it centered and keep cutting and cutting away of camaro till i am at correct cradle height. then just see what i have left to work with of the camaro frame rails and pan. i am adding a full cage to the car, so it will make tying in much stronger. definately keeping the cradle. only 4 mounting points, then run coilovers, so only 2 more pickup points for those. lower spring mounts will be ditched and new links made.

[overZealous1]

has that 79 project hit the road yet? how did it feel?

in the 350z it gave marginally good off line weight transfer, and occasionally gave some wheel hop, but poly bushings are available now and i will be making solid carrier and subframe mounts. but, in the twisties, it was glued to the road!

[bimmen325]

Frank's car is a full frame with Corvette stuff; the amount of work to do this channeling properly negates the reason to even use a factory frame. Might as well go for the most you can if you start cutting and welding.

My car isn't even at ride height in the front (it's about 1.5" high), and it has (I'm guessing here) a roof to ground height of 47 inches, and at least 5 inches of ground clearance. The car is full tube chassis with all C5 stuff including rear mounted transaxle.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/ShopPicsJanuary2011009-1.jpg

Tyler

What's needed to get flares like that? They look sweet.

[Gitter Dun]

Scott, glad your still following through with this one. Looking forward to seeing some progress.

So have you nailed a game plan for the front sub yet?

[overZealous1]

^ not yet. lol. cleaning garage out right now to make more room for some cutting!! think i will do the rear first, then see how much frame work needs to be done in rear. if it dictates mostly new rear rails, i will probably just run new rails down the whole car and tie front in.

[exwestracer]

^ not yet. lol. cleaning garage out right now to make more room for some cutting!! think i will do the rear first, then see how much frame work needs to be done in rear. if it dictates mostly new rear rails, i will probably just run new rails down the whole car and tie front in.

The Camaro is still mothballed as far as I know... Happens all too often when our students graduate and get back to the real world.

As I said, we had looked at mounting the cradle directly to the floor/subframe and, at least on the 2nd gen, that wasn't "user friendly" at all...

I think you may find that new rails are your best option... Just trying to save you some time staring at it if I can. :)

[overZealous1]

thanks ray. i'm hoping i can just do cross bars between existing rails to mount it, but we will see. front part of rails i'm sure is where most of the clearance issues will be. if i have to cut too much out, new rails it is.

[exwestracer]

thanks ray. i'm hoping i can just do cross bars between existing rails to mount it, but we will see. front part of rails i'm sure is where most of the clearance issues will be. if i have to cut too much out, new rails it is.

Like all of it??? LOL

[TitoJones]

What's needed to get flares like that? They look sweet.

The are made by hand. The crease on the horizontal parting line were cut open, and the entire body pushed out at the front and rear, then the factory wheel well eyebrows were cut off, spaced out and the flares were hand formed and TIG welded back up. Took a very long time, and the cost was near $10K for the metal work.

Tyler

[overZealous1]

did some measurements, engine can go up 2.5" and clear hood. turbos need relocate, or do some cool scoop/bubble in the hood over them. but, will bring front suspension back into some sort of resonable a-arm angles. would like to match roll center of front to the rear though. will see if possible.

btw ray, ya, looks like the whole back has to go. hahaha. front mounts same centerline as stock camaro rails.

[Gitter Dun]

I figured the rear rails (more like boxed sheet metal) would not be worthy of holding an independent rear. Have you looked into the rear rails in the Jegs and summit catalog's? I've never used them and wonder how much sturdier they are then the stock ones. Maybe they are sturdy enough to help support the independent set up you are going to throw in.

[MrQuick]

don't even waste you time with them sheet metal u channels....check these out... http://autoweldchassis.com/spec.ivnu down about 3/4 of the page. they have parallel and contured versions.

last time I checked the CE rails are .083 wall....I've used them...not worth the money IMO.

[exwestracer]

don't even waste you time with them sheet metal u channels....check these out... http://autoweldchassis.com/spec.ivnu down about 3/4 of the page. they have parallel and contured versions.

last time I checked the CE rails are .083 wall....I've used them...not worth the money IMO.

Quick,
Having been down this road, I don't think (could be wrong...) that any of the pre-formed rails will work with the Z IRS. The cradle mounts need to be in a location that would normally be where the floorpan sits. I'm going to go out on a limb and say he'd be better off just making exactly what he needs at this point.

[overZealous1]

after some measuring, the engine can go up another 3". i am running a 4" cowl hood though. so, that is the 3" i need to channel the frame in. going to do a number on trying to run a factory console though with a t56.

[MrQuick]

Quick,
Having been down this road, I don't think (could be wrong...) that any of the pre-formed rails will work with the Z IRS. The cradle mounts need to be in a location that would normally be where the floorpan sits. I'm going to go out on a limb and say he'd be better off just making exactly what he needs at this point.

true, no I agree, I was going off of the rail talk above.
Put it up and see where it needs to go then make your mounts. Hell, you could use your old rails and build a box structure where it needs to go if its near the floor section. BTW Ray, I did see the pictures you posted. Looks like an interesting project.

Vince

[cornfedbill]

Okay. I'm resurrecting this thread.

Has anyone channeled a first gen Camaro or third gen Nova? I'm working on chanelling mine now and would be interested to see what has been done.

The plan is to move the frame up about 2" from stock. This would be about 1/2" through the floor. I also plan to move it 2" forward.

Yes, actually, I am crazy. But I like to think of it as creative genius. The line is quite blurry... :naughty:

[shmoov69]

The only real "issues" I see is the engine height and if it'll clear the hood. Everything else I think can be moved up without much trouble (HA!).... Well other than channeling a first gen! LoL!

[cornfedbill]

The only real "issues" I see is the engine height and if it'll clear the hood. Everything else I think can be moved up without much trouble (HA!).... Well other than channeling a first gen! LoL!I have a 2-1/4" cowl induction hood that will not clear the motor in the new location. The Super Victor intake and the channel will conspire against me. I will need to modify the hood. Oh, the price we pay...

[shmoov69]

I'm thinkin a Grumpy's Toy doghouse scoop!! LoL!

[Kenova]

Ah yes, the "mail box".

Ken

[cornfedbill]

I'll need to use the clear mailbox scoop so I can see the cones...

[shmoov69]

LoL!! Right on!! Good thinkin!!

[cornfedbill]

This might be big enough. Like it? :pat:
106752

[black68]

would like to know if anybody has done this suggestion