overZealous1
12-26-2010, 04:18 PM
nabbed up an 08 tahoe 5.3. defunct the dod system (replaced lifters, lifter trays, and 09 vette vented valley cover. trans is modded viper t56 set up for ls.
retrolsx oil pan. engine mounts are solid and have the engine set in neutral position. trans crossmember will need some work to mount up. pan still hangs down and so does trans, so will be cutting out the top of trans tunnel and lifting drivetrain about an inch or so and adding 1/4" plate for a skid plate under pan. my car will be slammed, so will not be necessary for everyone. will probably also remove body bushings and bolting the subframe directly on to get the body lower over the front end without sacrificing ride height (which i will be setting at about 2.5"!!)
decided to keep the truck accessories due to the fact i am running a 4" cowl hood. it also made room for the edelbrock proflo intake. radiator will be a dual pass, so both my inlet and outlet will be on the passenger side making plumbing simple and clean.
ok, so there is the basic layout of engine placement for those looking to do the same. now the turbo set up-
wanted to use truck manifolds because, well hell, they are super cheap and they have been proven to make 1550rwhp without cracking. i simply flipped them around and cut the big stock flanges off. will have someone weld on some 2.5" mild steel (only way to reliably do it) and then can weld the mild steel to a s.s. v-band. you can see how close they come to the valve covers (which are of the tall variety) so not much room is wasted at all.
the turbo's are gt35r's. ball bearing and oil and water cooled. each good for about 500hp. turbine outlet is also set up for 3" v-band. inlet is normal t3. compressor inlet 4", outlet 2.5".
after lots of thought, my mock up placement is about the most effiecient way i could find. for those running rack and pinion steering you would have a little more option, but not much if you were using the truck style manifolds.
intercooler is a dual 2.5" inlet with a 3" outlet. i used a conversion 3"-4" elbow to come off the intercooler , then the maf is located off that hiding in front of the core support. i cut a 4" hole in the core support then 2 simple 90 degree 4" elbows into the engine.
once turbo brackets are made i will show how simple the compressor outlet plumbing will be using 2 more 90's going through the core support again. total length from turbo to engine will be roughly 5-6'. turbo's will spool fast also. turbo lag should be almost unnoticeable.
oil line routing, water line routing and obviously finishing the hot and cold sides will be happening very soon!
just wanted to post up a 67 ls twin turbo set up as i couldn't find too much step by step wise. in all honesty, with using a stock truck motor, truck manifolds, you can get away cheaper than doing a 500hp n/a build. i am shooting for mid 500rwhp on this engine. once rest of car is done i will enjoy it with the stock engine at that level, while building another engine. simple engine swap, all your routing is already done, whammy, crank it to 900+rwhp!!!!
wan
retrolsx oil pan. engine mounts are solid and have the engine set in neutral position. trans crossmember will need some work to mount up. pan still hangs down and so does trans, so will be cutting out the top of trans tunnel and lifting drivetrain about an inch or so and adding 1/4" plate for a skid plate under pan. my car will be slammed, so will not be necessary for everyone. will probably also remove body bushings and bolting the subframe directly on to get the body lower over the front end without sacrificing ride height (which i will be setting at about 2.5"!!)
decided to keep the truck accessories due to the fact i am running a 4" cowl hood. it also made room for the edelbrock proflo intake. radiator will be a dual pass, so both my inlet and outlet will be on the passenger side making plumbing simple and clean.
ok, so there is the basic layout of engine placement for those looking to do the same. now the turbo set up-
wanted to use truck manifolds because, well hell, they are super cheap and they have been proven to make 1550rwhp without cracking. i simply flipped them around and cut the big stock flanges off. will have someone weld on some 2.5" mild steel (only way to reliably do it) and then can weld the mild steel to a s.s. v-band. you can see how close they come to the valve covers (which are of the tall variety) so not much room is wasted at all.
the turbo's are gt35r's. ball bearing and oil and water cooled. each good for about 500hp. turbine outlet is also set up for 3" v-band. inlet is normal t3. compressor inlet 4", outlet 2.5".
after lots of thought, my mock up placement is about the most effiecient way i could find. for those running rack and pinion steering you would have a little more option, but not much if you were using the truck style manifolds.
intercooler is a dual 2.5" inlet with a 3" outlet. i used a conversion 3"-4" elbow to come off the intercooler , then the maf is located off that hiding in front of the core support. i cut a 4" hole in the core support then 2 simple 90 degree 4" elbows into the engine.
once turbo brackets are made i will show how simple the compressor outlet plumbing will be using 2 more 90's going through the core support again. total length from turbo to engine will be roughly 5-6'. turbo's will spool fast also. turbo lag should be almost unnoticeable.
oil line routing, water line routing and obviously finishing the hot and cold sides will be happening very soon!
just wanted to post up a 67 ls twin turbo set up as i couldn't find too much step by step wise. in all honesty, with using a stock truck motor, truck manifolds, you can get away cheaper than doing a 500hp n/a build. i am shooting for mid 500rwhp on this engine. once rest of car is done i will enjoy it with the stock engine at that level, while building another engine. simple engine swap, all your routing is already done, whammy, crank it to 900+rwhp!!!!
wan