Torsion bar removal

[mopar1970]

Does anyone know if there is away of elimanate the torsion bars on a 1970 charger and use a coil over or something else ??

[MoparCar]

Two of the best choices would be Reilly Motorsports Alterkation kit or XV Motorsports Level II kit. Both are coil over systems. They target different price points and markets, but are both accepted as good systems. There are a couple of others, but they do not have the best history or reputation and may need a motor plate or additional support for the shock tower mounts.

Wes

[Bjkadron]

Wes is pretty much spot on.. But I am wondering what are you trying to gain by removing the torsion bars? header clearance? Improved performance?

[exwestracer]

As mentioned, the internal fender structure on the B body (and others) wasn't really designed to take the weight of the car and spring loads from cornering. Yes, the shocks do mount there, but I have seen them converted to coilovers; with disastrous results in some cases. If you are determined to go that route, add a tubular structure that ties the shock tower area to the windshield cowl and the front subframe. DON'T just cut it all out (unless it's rusty), try to work with what is there.

[High Plains Mopars]

[QUOTE=Bjkadron;753402]But I am wondering what are you trying to gain by removing the torsion bars? QUOTE]

Biggest gain in ditching t-bars and going to a coil spring is the broad range of rates that are available in coils vs a t-bar. There are 3, maybe 4, good performance rates for a t-bar. On the other hand, a coil spring can be found from 500-1500# in 50# increments. Great for dailing in the exact roll couple percentage, IF, you're the type of driver that needs to alter rates for different tracks or applications.

[Bjkadron]

Biggest gain in ditching t-bars and going to a coil spring is the broad range of rates that are available in coils vs a t-bar. There are 3, maybe 4, good performance rates for a t-bar. On the other hand, a coil spring can be found from 500-1500# in 50# increments. Great for dailing in the exact roll couple percentage, IF, you're the type of driver that needs to alter rates for different tracks or applications.

I know the advantages/disadvantages... I was just wondering the OP's reasons.. As some people think that the only way to make them handle is to get rid of the t-bars and sometimes they can meet their goals with less expense sticking with a stock based suspension.

[mopar1970]

Basically the reason i wanted to remove them was to try and get a lower stance. I've tried adjusting the t bars on my duster and when i get the ride height i am looking for it is to soft for street driving. I just want to get a nice low stance on my charger. Thanks for all the advice

[Bjkadron]

Basically the reason i wanted to remove them was to try and get a lower stance. I've tried adjusting the t bars on my duster and when i get the ride height i am looking for it is to soft for street driving. I just want to get a nice low stance on my charger. Thanks for all the advice

Then I would just upgrade the torsion bars. With a stiffer rate it would be better at the low travel that you are looking at, And be a WHOLE LOT cheaper than switching to coil-overs.

[MoparCar]

Plus a nice weight savings which is horsepower. Not being sarcastic (ok maybe a bit!) but this is PT.com not resto.com so we cut, hack, modify on our beloved Mopars. Yep, I'm ditching the torsions, BUT....I agree you can get great handling from upgraded stock torsions and k-member. Check out Hotchkis for a great stock set up.

Wes

[GMachineDartGT]

If stance is what you are after, but the correct rate stiffer T bar, and purchase a drop spindle and you'll be fine.

[rrunner68]

You'll find that the fastest PT mopars right now are running T-bars still. All class winners for the 2010 Mopars at the Strip Autocross were running T-bars.

[High Plains Mopars]

Well, I'd attribute that to the fact that most coil over converters are taking the frame manufacturers advice on rates and simply plugging them in and going driving. They are not all taking the time to understand the dynamics of it all, measuring tire temps, and changing rates to optimize autocross performance, so they end up with a very expensively suspended, very nice riding, muscle car that handles okay.

To the OP, I'd suggest you pick up a 1.0 to 1.12 t-bar, install that, then drop your ride height where you like it and see the difference a big step up in wheel rates does for a t-bar.

[hidollartoys]

I have posted a thread in this section on a 73 duster that I want to setup the chassis for road racing. The car will not see any street use. The suspension has to be stock or look stock. Any help you mopar guys can provide will be helpful.