Advice please for 66 Nova

[AUS.NOVA]

:help!: I have a 66 nova sedan, ls/6 speed. It has a Jim Weimers MII Clip with QA1 coilovers (adj spring height/non adj shock valving, - I want to change to double adj when on market - 500in/lb springs), 80's T Bird power rack, subframe connectors, 4.11 lsd 12 bolt, monoleaf rear springs with Caltracs and QA1 single adj rear shocks. I want it be mostly street friendly but track able. I am more interested in open track than autocross as we have a road course locally. I am not replacing rear suspension at this stage, just want to get the most out of what I have. Was thinking about a hellwig rear sway bar and a sway bar for front (possibly weimers or other that could be adapted as the chassis rail position would be close through all brands?) Wheel/tyres are waiting to go on - (16x7 minilites with 225/50/16 YOKO Advans all round) Wheel alignment specs for street/track? Feel free to throw in any advice/recommendations. Anyone done the same?

[NOGO]

I think the front spring rate is a bit high- what size sway bar do you have and what size do you want? I highly recommend a rear sway bar, especially with monoleafs, and the Hellwig is the best on the market for the stock rear suspension. I recommend you not buy the double adjustable front shocks and instead upgrade the rear springs with a multileaf in the 180 lb range.

For your alignment to start I recommend:

5 deg caster
-1 deg camber
.2 deg total toe in

[AUS.NOVA]

No sway bars fitted as yet, so open to sizes etc.

Link to local track layout. http://www.trackpedia.com/wiki/Queensland_Raceway

[wiedemab]

I'm far from an expert, but I know a lot of the early Mustang guys run leaf spring rears with a watts link and have pretty good luck. I would think it would help the lateral stability of the rear axle significantly especially vs. mono-leafs. I don't know that anyone makes a kit for the Chevy II's, but something like this could potentially be adapted -

http://www.fays2.net/

[Bryce]

If you have the money add a watts link with fiberglass leaf springs.

You cant determine spring rate without the cars weight. And use the rear sway bar to dial in the handling. over/under steer...

NOGO's alignment specs seem good.

Check out AFCO shocks, $300 for DA T2s. IMO best for the money. The shock is stronger than a QA1.

[Bryce]

Brandon, I guess you type faster than me, good reccomendation.

[wiedemab]

Bryce - - you are far more of an expert than me, but I'm glad I wasn't too far off base with my thoughts.

[Bryce]

Not an expert, I dont even have my car done yet. Hopefully all my custom suspension design will work!

[NOGO]

I think a 1.2" front sway bar with 400# springs up front would work well if you change your rear leaf springs and install the Hellwig rear bar.

There is a lot of lateral control to be had with leaf springs without the use of a Watts link, especially for a street car that you just want to take to the track and have fun with. Plus the expense and engineering required, not to mention other modifications, is not worth it IMO.

[TCI Engineering]

The Mustang II F/E only has room for a short spring(8"-9") so you'll want to stick with the originally stated 500#. That is what we run standard on all coilover equipped MII Nova front ends.

-J

[NOGO]

The Mustang II F/E only has room for a short spring(8"-9") so you'll want to stick with the originally stated 500#. That is what we run standard on all coilover equipped MII Nova front ends.

-J

Gotcha- Since this is the case I would say a 1" front sway bar might be a better choice.

[AUS.NOVA]

Would traction bars (caltracs) help or hinder handling? - less spring wrap would have to be a good thing, wouldn't it? I spoke to a guy that had restored a 1970 Holden Monaro touring car that was very successful in that era that had a watts linkage adapted to it.

http://www.google.com.au/imgres?imgurl=http://musclecarmag.com.au/images/gallery/Norm%2520Beechey-Monaro.jpg&imgrefurl=http://musclecarmag.com.au/australian-muscle-car-photo-monaro-gts-350.php&h=411&w=680&sz=115&tbnid=AIDZfM4J5fLzBM:&tbnh=84&tbnw=139&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dnorm%2Bbeechey%2Bmonaro&zoom=1&q=norm+beechey+monaro&usg=__kSlMsUSnFcL-pU8UzwjEXNV2kVk=&sa=X&ei=iTYETeLbEI_jrAeU7fiQDw&ved=0CB4Q9QEwAA

He said the car had a tendency to oversteer more and was less predictable when cornering. He thought a watts linkage was not necessary on leaf sprung car in his opinion (maybe car needed more sorting). I think there would still be some lateral movement on leaf springs though.

[Bryce]

When I said add a watts link I was referring to ading a watts with the fiberglass leaf springs. Those cant really take lateral loads. Or add a watts if you add sperical bearing in the front spring eyes.

As for caltracks I have no experience, but spring companies like global west make the front have of the springs stiffer to prevent wheel hop due to spring wrap.

[NOGO]

Cal Tracs are ok on the street (if you dont have them preloaded), great at the drag strip, and can (should) be removed for a road course.

[AUS.NOVA]

Hey Bryce, do you have any more pics (or link to postings) of your rear suspension set up? Your car reminds me of my old 64 Comet, it was a bbf though.

[Bryce]

Check out my build thread, the link is in my signature. https://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.php?58842-1965-ford-falcon-pro-touring&highlight=

[AUS.NOVA]

Car is now on the road.

Had alignment done to:
Caster +4 (getting close to headers)
Camber -0.5
Toe in 0.5mm per side

Steering does not self centre. Current set up does not feel good. Fitted the detroit speed p/steer valve to pump which gave a lot more feel to steering.

Thoughts anyone?

[AUS.NOVA]

Can anyone direct me to a link on understanding bumpsteer???? Have had alignment redone (by a guy that has raced sports sedans for some years and owns a tyre shop) but still not happy with how car behaves.

My questions are:-

How do I identify bumpsteer?

Best way to eliminate it? Summit sells offset steering rack bushings. Many companies sell bumpsteer kits.

Is there any options in regards to taller balljoints/spindle?

Can mustang 2 fronts be made to work or is this a waste of time?

I need help with this as the company that made the clip is unable to answer the questions I'm asking.

I will try and add some pics soon of current setup.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-770606

http://images-ftp.americanmuscle.com/common/pages/viewer-enlarged.php?sku=54112&name=Whiteline%2BBall%2BJoint%2B%2526%252338%253B% 2BBumpsteer%2BKit%2B%252805-10%2BAll%2529&thumbs=54112,54112_alt1,54112_alt2,54112_alt3,5411 2_alt4,54112_alt5,54112_alt6,54112_alt7&cust=true&pid=67268


ALSO, anyones thoughts on the 3 or 4 link debate. My local laws will only allow bolt in not weld in and I'm sort of stuck on the TCI 3 link at the moment. See first post in this thread as to my intentions for this car (not interested in drag racing). Want to add a watts link similar to BRYCE'S falcon at the same time.

[MIKE67]

Here is a link to bump steer corrections. Needs pics to show the dial indicator setup.

http://www.longacreracing.com/articles/art.asp?ARTID=13

This shows a couple of different set ups to measure bump steer.

http://www.circletrack.com/chassistech/ctrp_1001_bump_steer_explained/viewall.html