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Vicinity
12-05-2010, 09:18 AM
I've been doing some research, do they still require a lot of fab to make work with the body? The latest posts I've found are from a few years ago, figured by now someone would have figured out a way to make it "bolt up" (or weld) so to speak?

I really like the idea of working everything out on a separate frame, then mating the body at a later day, on top of the better structure it provides to the body, reducing flex, and so on.

dhutton
12-05-2010, 10:22 AM
Art Morrison has a "bolt in" full frame based on their subframe and rear clip as far as I know. You have to remove the rear frame rails and a couple other minor cuts and that is it.

Vicinity
12-05-2010, 10:58 AM
Art Morrison has a "bolt in" full frame based on their subframe and rear clip as far as I know. You have to remove the rear frame rails and a couple other minor cuts and that is it.

To be honest, theirs is the one I found the least info on, just one page in their 2010 catalog. How much does their bare frame run, if you might know?

MoparCar
12-05-2010, 11:36 AM
Also check out the Roadster Shops awesome frame and Schwartz performance.
Wes

Rhino
12-05-2010, 12:06 PM
The problem with a "bolt in" frame that requires zero fabrication is that, by definition, it goes below the stock floor. You'll either dramatically reduce ground clearance, or the car will be riding really high.

Vicinity
12-05-2010, 12:28 PM
The problem with a "bolt in" frame that requires zero fabrication is that, by definition, it goes below the stock floor. You'll either dramatically reduce ground clearance, or the car will be riding really high.

I would expect to lose ground clearance at the bottom of the passenger compartment, as there's nothing there to begin with, but wouldn't the front and rear just set where the old frame rails were?

XLexusTech
12-05-2010, 01:15 PM
http://www.jakesrodshop.com/Projects__Events/Pages/Wiggins_69_Camaro_Build.html#grid


owner and builder are members here

Vicinity
12-05-2010, 02:08 PM
http://www.jakesrodshop.com/Projects__Events/Pages/Wiggins_69_Camaro_Build.html#grid


owner and builder are members here

I was looking at that one, it's not quite what I was looking for, it looks like a torque are holds the front and rear frames together, and does not have the rear rails built in.

67zo6Camaro
12-05-2010, 04:14 PM
I've been thinking about this idea for some time. A full rolling chassis to mount under the 1st Gen with minimal body pan slicing (similar to what you would do for a frame connector and typical cut-ins for rear suspension) and just the removal of the rear existing rails. Not to many current market options out. I would be interested in fabricating a proto-type mid year 2011 if anyone is interested.

Brett

hotrdblder
12-05-2010, 05:18 PM
The problem is if making like a subframe and rear clip with per say subframe connectors, your still gonna need a full cage to stiffen the car properly, so why go into the extra cost of a full frame. From designing, right thru shipping just costs more, about 30-40%, then a boltin subframe, subframe connectors, and a rear susp.
A properly caged bolt in subframe, subframe connectors, and weld in rear susp will be as rigid as a frame your talking about.At 30-40% less
Now if you did a full perimeter 2x4x.120 tube chassis with cage that would be stiffest, however now you need fabricated floors etc to maintain ground clearances etc
fyi, if anything is below 4 inches high, IT WILL hit everything, in any weird driveway entry,speed bump etc, not worth it.

Vicinity
12-05-2010, 05:50 PM
The problem is if making like a subframe and rear clip with per say subframe connectors, your still gonna need a full cage to stiffen the car properly, so why go into the extra cost of a full frame. From designing, right thru shipping just costs more, about 30-40%, then a boltin subframe, subframe connectors, and a rear susp.
A properly caged bolt in subframe, subframe connectors, and weld in rear susp will be as rigid as a frame your talking about.At 30-40% less
Now if you did a full perimeter 2x4x.120 tube chassis with cage that would be stiffest, however now you need fabricated floors etc to maintain ground clearances etc
fyi, if anything is below 4 inches high, IT WILL hit everything, in any weird driveway entry,speed bump etc, not worth it.

I noted this, but said my reason was it would be easier to work with the drive train, I'm not really keeping cost in mind. The body of the car would have a 6-10 pt cage installed.

Vicinity
12-05-2010, 05:51 PM
I've been thinking about this idea for some time. A full rolling chassis to mount under the 1st Gen with minimal body pan slicing (similar to what you would do for a frame connector and typical cut-ins for rear suspension) and just the removal of the rear existing rails. Not to many current market options out. I would be interested in fabricating a proto-type mid year 2011 if anyone is interested.

Brett

Try and keep me up to date with this if you decide to go along with it, I'd be looking to get into a full frame in a year to two, or at least attempt.

67zo6Camaro
12-05-2010, 06:08 PM
No problem Vicinity,

I hear ya loud and clear from a production and logistics standpoint hotrdblder. But this is not my point. Im a small custom shop that likes to think outside the box. My idea of a rolling chassis includes roll gage mounting pads/locations that would allow for the bolt in style gage and/or for the weld in style gage. The idea to take the body off in the future was not the main drive for this idea. It is basically the idea of suspension and chassis set-up proior to final assembly.

I'm sure there will be more opinions of the feasability of this approach, But Im sure there has to be more average joe builders out there that would love to just get over the phase of construction that envolves that structural aspect of the chassis and suspension. Just an idea I had and that's my 3 cents.

Brett.

Vicinity
12-05-2010, 06:20 PM
No problem Vicinity,

I hear ya loud and clear from a production and logistics standpoint hotrdblder. But this is not my point. Im a small custom shop that likes to think outside the box. My idea of a rolling chassis includes roll gage mounting pads/locations that would allow for the bolt in style gage and/or for the weld in style gage. The idea to take the body off in the future was not the main drive for this idea. It is basically the idea of suspension and chassis set-up proior to final assembly.

I'm sure there will be more opinions of the feasability of this approach, But Im sure there has to be more average joe builders out there that would love to just get over the phase of construction that envolves that structural aspect of the chassis and suspension. Just an idea I had and that's my 3 cents.

Brett.

This is a very good point. It's not the main point, but to incorporate it, maybe inset mounting points so it's flush, would be a great idea. Definitely not the main drive, though.

TCI Engineering
12-06-2010, 10:08 AM
my reason was it would be easier to work with the drive train,

The engine and tranny can be mounted prior to installation on most front clips.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/101_4363-1.jpg

-J

Bobs 67Camaro
12-06-2010, 02:20 PM
Looks Great! I presume that is the show kit?

ProdigyCustoms
12-06-2010, 02:42 PM
We sell the Morrison front and rear clip welded together as one frame, rolling with hubs on front and axles in rear for right at $10,500.

This frame will replace your rear frame rails, the center section of the frame will penetrate the rear floor 1 1/2", and the front section will bolt into the original subframe holes.

Feel free to call for more information

TCI Engineering
12-06-2010, 05:49 PM
Looks Great! I presume that is the show kit?

Yes, that is one of our displays in a full "Show Package" shod with NT05's.

-J

Vicinity
12-06-2010, 06:35 PM
We sell the Morrison front and rear clip welded together as one frame, rolling with hubs on front and axles in rear for right at $10,500.

This frame will replace your rear frame rails, the center section of the frame will penetrate the rear floor 1 1/2", and the front section will bolt into the original subframe holes.

Feel free to call for more information

Morrison is what you're using on Unfair, right?

Does that kit include any suspension parts? Arms/shocks, etc? 10 Grand is a hefty price.:scared:

Vicinity
12-06-2010, 06:37 PM
The engine and tranny can be mounted prior to installation on most front clips.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/101_4363-1.jpg

-J

Yeah, I know, but I'd like everything regarding the drivetrain in a package, including the rear end. Just seems like it would make it much easier to work on. I figured if I'm going to redo the front, I'll get the back done also.

I like that picture, any details? :drool:

Bobs 67Camaro
12-07-2010, 04:17 AM
J-

What's the max width wheel you can run in the front? 9". Also, what HP is the rear Ford 9: rated to? (I presume it has 31 spline axles). Is there an available upgrade to 35 spline?

Thanks,

ProdigyCustoms
12-07-2010, 05:11 AM
Morrison is what you're using on Unfair, right?

Does that kit include any suspension parts? Arms/shocks, etc? 10 Grand is a hefty price.:scared:

We are using Morrison in Unfair but are using a custom "5 link" that is both a drag race 4 link and road race 3 link all in one. And that system is anything but a bolt in.

The system I was talking about includes complete fornt clip with C6 Corvette arms and spindles connected to a rear clip with triangle 4 link (under the floor) rear suspension and includes housing and axles. So when installed you can put tires on it and roll it.

So $10k is not so hefty when you look at all you are getting

ProdigyCustoms
12-07-2010, 05:17 AM
J-

What's the max width wheel you can run in the front? 9". Also, what HP is the rear Ford 9: rated to? (I presume it has 31 spline axles). Is there an available upgrade to 35 spline?

Thanks,

Was not sure to whom you directed the question so I will answer about the Morrison.

We can put a 10 1/2" and 295 on the front and a 12" with a 335 on the rear.

31 spline True track are good for about 600HP on street tires. We also have a upgrade for a 35 spline Wave Tracs for higher power cars.

TCI Engineering
12-07-2010, 09:09 AM
Yeah, I know, but I'd like everything regarding the drivetrain in a package, including the rear end. Just seems like it would make it much easier to work on. I figured if I'm going to redo the front, I'll get the back done also.

I like that picture, any details? :drool:

Everything you see there is a package, Custom IFS, Torque Arm rear and a Currie 9" housing with 31 spline axles. That particular package has some popular upgrades. 13" Wilwood brakes, 1.125" anti-sway bar, polishing, powdercoating, Tru-Track posi etc
We also offer Fab 9 housings, 14" brakes, 1.25" sway bar, 35 spline axles, LSx engine mounts, double adjustable coilovers etc

We have 275/35/18 on the front of our car with 315/30/18 on the back. 335's will fit on the back but they weren't available in this specific tire.

-J

Vicinity
12-07-2010, 09:19 AM
We are using Morrison in Unfair but are using a custom "5 link" that is both a drag race 4 link and road race 3 link all in one. And that system is anything but a bolt in.

The system I was talking about includes complete fornt clip with C6 Corvette arms and spindles connected to a rear clip with triangle 4 link (under the floor) rear suspension and includes housing and axles. So when installed you can put tires on it and roll it.

So $10k is not so hefty when you look at all you are getting

Oh no, Frank, don't get me wrong. I'm not saying $10k is too much to ask for it, I was just saying 10k isn't carry money... (for us normal people ;) ).

GrnDragon
12-07-2010, 09:59 AM
I wanted the same thing, and ended up buying a custom full frame from JRS with a 2x3 profile (since I am running a full 12+ upper cage). The cost is kind of staggering too. What you see in the picture below is about $30k (wheels/tire/brakes take about $13k). I have been piecing it together for about 2-3 years.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/38471054014_large-1.jpg

I mainly did it because I planned to buy a VERY rough shell that would need a new floor and other metal and with the money I saved buying a rough shell I could use that on the full frame and new FLAT floor pans.

silver69camaro
12-07-2010, 11:23 AM
Luca, are you saying you paid $17k for that frame?

GrnDragon
12-07-2010, 12:10 PM
Luca, are you saying you paid $17k for that frame?

No,
$13k Wheels/Tires/Brakes
$2k Center Section
$2k Full Floater kit and housing work
$1-$2k Misc costs
It was about $12k-$13k (I cannot remember the exact price after all the little things I have purchased). That was with semi-floater ends and axles.

Vicinity
12-07-2010, 12:44 PM
Hey Frank, do you sell those Morrison frames without any extras? No arms or shocks etc? How much would that run, if you don't mind my asking?

ProdigyCustoms
12-07-2010, 05:31 PM
I can work you up something. Hit me up by email and let me know exactly what you want / don't want

Vicinity
12-09-2010, 01:52 PM
I can work you up something. Hit me up by email and let me know exactly what you want / don't want

Frank, I emailed you about a couple of things.

Thanks!