ls1 conversion help

[69projectKAOS]

i recently broke two studs causing my wheel to come off and destroy my fender. upon inspection of the after math i noticed that my studs that i was supplied with in my conversion kit are very small looking inside the holes of my rotors. while the rotor is on the car you can spin the rotor a little before it touched the studs causing a lot of play in there. i think when i would brake while coming to a stop the rotor would stop but the hub would keep going causing the two studs to snap. i know that the holes in the rotor should just fit around the wheel studs but mine definitely don't, is there anything i can do to keep them centered? or should i get new rotors that have smaller holes? what should i do?

[shep]

I swapped to the larger metric stud the same size used on the application that the rotors came from. I think that they were 12 mm.

[Apogee]

Continued from your previous thread (https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?74321-wheel-stud-size-for-69-camaro-with-ls1-conversion) in the Wheel/Tire forum, the LS1 rotors have huge wheel stud holes since the wheel stud pattern is design to accommodate both the Holden 5x118 and the F-body 5x120.65 patterns, hence the grossly oversized holes (~.641" IIRC). They work just fine in both applications, so the wheel stud hole size is not the issue. The center bore of the rotor should be 70.5mm [2.776"] nominally, slightly larger for a slip fit in reality. The pilot registers on your axles should basically match this dimension as well so the the rotor runs true to the centerline of the axle. The wheel studs should not have anything to do with locating the rotors. If your axle registers are undersized for some reason, you should run a hub-centric ring to center the rotor on the axle, not the wheel studs.

Your rotor should never "spin" separately from your axle or wheel if your wheel studs are tightened to the proper torque.

Tobin
KORE3