1986 Camaro

[Yelcamino]

I wasn't sure where to post this... curious what to look for when buying a '86 Camaro. Are there any particular trouble spots I should be aware of? Hidden areas that always seem to rust?

All I'm really after is a decent body and chassis so I'm not too concerned about the engine/trans.

Here's one that I'm going to look at tomorrow. It has a 350/700R4 and a 350 short block that goes along with it for $2700 obo...

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Sorry for the poor photos, but it's what the seller provided.

[Mathius]

Floorpans are usually worse than most cars (rust) probably because its fairly low to the ground. Particularly around the rockers and firewall. Wheel wells can be an issue like most cars. They also seem to flex fairly easily. Subframe connectors are a must, and check it before you buy to see how straight the chassis is, although with a hard top you're probably ok. It's usually the t-top ones that are bad. My first car was a '92 Camaro and I didn't know any better. Found out the chassis was so twisted they had turned the retainers for the t-top pins on their side to make them line up. A few months after I found that, the windshield literally fell out of it.

Mathius

[Yelcamino]

Floorpans are usually worse than most cars (rust) probably because its fairly low to the ground. Particularly around the rockers and firewall. Wheel wells can be an issue like most cars. They also seem to flex fairly easily. Subframe connectors are a must, and check it before you buy to see how straight the chassis is, although with a hard top you're probably ok. It's usually the t-top ones that are bad. My first car was a '92 Camaro and I didn't know any better. Found out the chassis was so twisted they had turned the retainers for the t-top pins on their side to make them line up. A few months after I found that, the windshield literally fell out of it.

Mathius

Ok, cool! Thanks. I'll be sure to take a close look at those areas!

[slowcamaro]

Only concerning rust on my particular third gen are the battery tray and spare tire well.

[justasquid]

the main thing I would be concerned with is how well the engine swap was done. If the 700R4 was installed correctly, or just dropped in. Check for hacked wiring and missing items. It looks like the AC is missing parts, see if they are still with the car.

As for rust, as said, I would check the rockers, floor pans, strut towers, shock mounts..ect. There about the same as any car, rust will start where ever it looks like water can be trapped. Anything that has holes in it... like the spoiler or ground effects.

As for the price. I thinks a bit high. Im not sure what the third gen cars go for in your area, but here in Michigan, pretty clean ones can be had for anywhere from 1500-2000 in similar condition. I would probably offer 2 grand and see where it gets you. Theres been some Tuned Port 350 Irocs around here lately selling for 4-5 grand. And thats with low miles, in the 70-80,000 range. Extremely clean cars. I always look at what really nice cars that don't need anything go for, and then figure out how much it would cost me to get a cheaper car into the same conditon.. If your paying nearly 3 grand, and super clean ones can be had for 4 that need nothing.... I would be hard pressed to spend that much on it. But, thats just my own opinion. So I think I would look around a bit more and see whats out there. But again, Im not sure what the market is like in your area for 3rd gens.

Also great point on the need for frame connectors. I personally like the t-top cars more, but they are a little weaker.. but thats where the frame connectors come in. Also a great reason to wait it out for a clean unmolested car. If someone swapped in a more powerful engine and didnt take the right steps, you could have other issues you don't see on the surface.

If your only after a clean body, then thats what I would look for. Im sure you can find a nice clean shell for a grand or so. If your going to swap engines anyway, might as well not pay for it in the first place, just to pull it out. Because honestly, the 3rd gen market right now is great. A lot of cars and a very cheap price tag.

[Rhino]

Something else I've noticed on a number of hard top 3rd gens is the roof suffering stress cracks due to metal fatigue where the C-pillar meets with the roof. Not a huge problem, however it's something that's pretty difficult/expensive to repair properly. If you do pick it up SFC's will help prevent it in the future.

[dropit69]

Herb that seems like a good price if its soild..there is a 85 iroc 5 speed near me with some rust for 3k..i take it you want a FRC?..cant wait to see what you do with it..Big Block?...

[Yelcamino]

Herb that seems like a good price if its soild..there is a 85 iroc 5 speed near me with some rust for 3k..i take it you want a FRC?..cant wait to see what you do with it..Big Block?...

We went ahead and bought it today for $2200. The body is in really good shape and the interior is even better! The worst thing I saw on the body were some bubbles under the paint on the driver side door and the passenger side front fender lip. The 350/700R4 will be sold to make room for a LSX/T56. Yeah, I wasn't interested in t-tops because my plans include a full cage and suspension/brake upgrades along with a full floater 9" rear.

See, what happened was, I forced my wife to drive the El Camino in the autocross and drags at RTTH VI. She said it was a lot of fun and wants to do more of it. Next I took her to the Maxton Mile with me and Mike. While we were there I kinda pushed her into driving Mike's El Camino and she made two passes, 125 mph and 140 mph! After the second pass, she kept going on about how much fun it was to drive so fast. Then she asked me if we could build a race car. So there you have it, the reason why I now have a '86 Camaro. lol

[blackbeast]

Last year I bought a 92z, 80,000 original miles, mint interior, engine's never been touched. Only some minor surface rust behind rear wheels b/c of rockchips. $4200.

These cars are really weird in that you can spend 2 grand for a basketcase that's all rusted, but hardly any are selling over 3-4 K. Look around and you find a nicer one for not that much more money.

I think that 91-92 also had additional welds/ epoxy throughout chassis/inside so they are supposed to be more rigid. I could be off my rocker on that statement, check out thirdgen.org for details.

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[srh3trinity]

I will have another third gen after having two of them as a young driver. I had issues with the trunk latch motor in my '87 and the hatch wouldn't seat down all the way. Look in the well in the back part of the trunk under the carpet. Some chassis stiffening and some aftermarket suspension pieces with an LS swap would make for an awesome autoX car.

[Jim85IROC]

There are a lot of us doing lsx/t56 swaps into thirdgens. There's a dedicated swap board on thirdgen.org that has a LOT of great info.

The sad part is that doing this sort of upgrade to a third gen costs basically just as much as upgrading anything else, but when it's all said and done, the car is still worth very little. It's got to be a labor of love or it'll just be a heartbreak.

[dropit69]

Congrats Herb..cant wait to see what ya do too it..im sure itll be sweet !! i have been looking for a clean one but that about impossible around me..my brother has a 88 iroc 350 with like 5ok miles on it but wont sell it too me..lol