What components to buy

[spacepirate]

So I have a little over $4000 that I recently came into and want to put it towards upgrading my 68 Camaro suspension. Currently I have 18x7 (f) 225-45-18 and 18x8 (r) 255-45-18. It definitely needs to be dropped a couple inches. My questions is what would be the best ride for my money. I'm afraid just a basic drop will make the ride rough. I have looked at DSE, Hotchkis, Air Ride, etc. and just get overwhelmed. I also really want to stay within the 4k price range and get the best bang for my buck. Any advice?!

This is how it sits now and I know I need disc brakes. Thats coming soon.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/CIMG24241-1.jpg

[MrQuick]

Go with the DSE leafs, coil springs and a set of adjustable Koni shocks. Very nice riding set up.

[ArtosDracon]

I'd say DSE leafs plus panhard bar, custom rate coil springs and double adjustable AFCOs or VariShocks. Adjustable rate rear swaybar, 1.25" stock style .120 wall front bar, and subframe connectors.

[Bryce]

What is the goal of the car? Autocross and other PT events while maintaining streetability?

Im not a camaro guy so this is based on my own suspension knowledge and whaat I have read about camaros. So I would go leafs, maybe even fiberglass leafs for a more linear spring rate. I would go a slightly lighter spring rate to make the ride a little better on the street. I would add in a good double adjustable shock. I prefer AFCOs for the money. I would go with a watts link FAYs2 makes a good bolt in one I think. And add an adjustable rear sway bar. The shock and sway bar can then be dialed in to take the car form streetable to more trackable in a few minutes.

In the front I would spend the money on a good spindle, ATS from speedtech would be my choice. So if you get there spindles just get the upper and lower control arms too. Then an adjsutable sway bar in the front too. Does airride make a bolt in muscle bar with splined ends. Again I would go with a matching shock in the front, double adjustable. If ride height change needs to be dialed in go with a true coilover not the qa1 sorta coilover.

[marolf101x]

We will have "real" coil over kits available soon for the first gen (just waiting on a few final parts to arrive). The coil overs use the same mounting system as our Shockwaves which allow a 2.5" coil spring to be used, which provides a ton of spring rate options.
Here's a link to our swivel stud mount to give you an idea of how it works. It uses a Delrin ball and aluminum socket to allow articulation during suspension travel while providing a solid mount (no bushing deflection or wear):
http://www.ridetech.com/store/suspension-components/components-hardware/rod-ends-bushings-and-mounts/master-series-shockwave-swivel-stud-mount-2-ext..html

Our rear AirBar can be purchased with coil overs right now:
http://www.ridetech.com/store/suspension-components/airbar/airbar-coil-over-system-single-adjustable.html
http://www.ridetech.com/store/suspension-components/airbar/1967-1969-chevy-camaro-firebird-airbar-systems.html
This will eliminate the leaf springs and replace them with a triangulated four link and our coil overs of your choice of spring rate.

Our MuscleBar sway bars are not splined, they have bolt-on ends. This provided additional tire clearance so we went that route:
Front:
http://www.ridetech.com/store/suspension-components/musclebar-swaybar/1967-1969-chevy-camaro-firebird-musclebar-front.html
Rear (the rear is made to bolt to our AirBar):
http://www.ridetech.com/store/suspension-components/musclebar-swaybar/1967-1969-chevy-camaro-musclebar-rear.html

[spacepirate]

This is mainly a weekend driver so all I really want is a comfortable ride. What do you guys think about the Hotchkis stuff? I only ask because I have a discount coupon for them at the moment.

[spacepirate]

Thanks for the info Britt. I really want your guys Air Rid Stage 3 system so I might just have to wait and save up a bit more. DO you guys ever do any sales?

[Nessumsar]

A Hotchkis TVS system would fit the bill nicely, and that would leave you with enough money left over to upgrade to C5 Corvette brakes; and you would still have money left over for wider wheels and tires if you choose....

[ProdigyCustoms]

Just a tick over $4k, like $4200 will do a bolt in 4 link coil over rear in the rear and mack out the front subframe with all the best steering ans suspension components.

Conversations and planning are free,

[spacepirate]

Really?! Alright I'm gonna have to give you a call then.

[Marcus SC&C]

Yeah, that is a little high. The "right parts" depend entirely on your goals. If you`re looking for ride quality and drivability spring and shock rates will be very important. Digressive rate shocks (Bilstein or Varishock) will add a lot of ride quality to the package along with an exceptional improvement in handling. Drivability and performance also have a lot to do with the suspension and steering geometry. The 1st gen Camaro is very poor in both departments (backward even) and springs, shocks and A arms won`t (can`t) fix it, they can only try and mask it. A proper tall spindle (AFX) or tall ball joint package (SC&C) will correct those issues and give you a solid foundation to build on. The improvements here are hard to convey but they`re huge. AFX spindles also add C5 wheel bearing packs and total compatibility with C5/C6 Corvette brakes. The rear suspension can be made to work well with either leaf springs or a link suspension. A link suspension such as a Chassisworks G-Link is certainly more sophisticated and an overall better choice cost no object but I`d suggest making good choices in the front, where the biggest problems are, first and then deciding if the link rear suspension is in the budget. As always our free suspension counceling service is always available if you have any questions. Mark SC&C

[spacepirate]

If I did purchase the ATX spindles would I still have to machine my old drums to work with the C5 conversion. Does that make sense? I'm just trying to see if that might save me some work down the road as well.

[Mkelcy]

Holy overkill, Batman! Coilovers, panhard bars, double adjustable AFCO shocks, 4 links - all for a weekend cruiser that doesn't even have disk brakes? Wow!

To the OP: The first thing you want to do is make the car safe, then move on to fun. Disk brakes will add enormously to your confidence and fun while driving the car and should be one of the first things you do. Most of us do brakes when we redo the front suspension. If you're forced to choose, the front suspension should be redone before you tackle the rear. Fortunately, your $4,000 budget easily allows for brakes and a very nice front and rear suspension.

Anything you do to the front should correct the camber curve of the early Camaros, and you want to lower the car.

For the front, I'd go with SC&C upper and lower control arms, with the tall upper ball joints for camber correction (about $1070), AFCO threaded spring adjusters and 500 lb./in. springs (the threaded adjusters allow you to set the front end height very precisely without cutting the spring - about $220), Koni or Bilstein shocks (about $220), a Hotchkis hollow sway bar ($230), 3rd gen IROC box ( tightens and speeds up the steering while providing good feedback - about $300, more if you don't already have power steering for a pump, bracket and hoses - maybe add $200 or so) and disk brakes NOW (about $1,000 for C5 12.7" brakes). All in you're looking at about $3,100 for the front.

You could also go with the SC&C ATS package (upper control arm and ATS tall spindle for camber correction - about $1,500), use stock lower control arms (which may produce a little rubbing on big bumps depending on how much caster you run), the same spring adjusters, springs, shocks, swaybar and steering box as above (about $970), and disk brakes for the ATS spindles (about $540 - it's a simpler kit because they are a simple bolt on to the ATS spindles, no new hubs or brackets needed). All in you're still looking at about $3,100 for the front. You may also need a new master cylinder and/or a proportioning valve for the brakes, but neither is terrible expensive.

For the rear I'd get fiberglass leaf springs - Flex-a-Form makes a great leaf that, even at high nominal spring rates, rides very smoothly because the fiberglass responds more quickly than steel and they can build them with any drop you want. I'd add Koni or Bilstein shocks and call the rear good. All in you're looking at about $700 or a bit more if you replace the rear shackles.

Anything left of your budget will find itself easily spent for taxes and shipping and various odds and ends.

Whatever you decide, do brakes first for both safety and enjoyment.

[spacepirate]

Wow thanks everyone for their input. And thanks Mike for the above break down.

[Ishmael]

Wow is right. You just got some serious meat to chew on. I hope people searching this kind of info later on will find this thread. There's so many f-bodies on here I hope they make it a sticky and those are some killer setups that could really sort out a car. Notice one thing though - brakes keep coming up. If I can throw my .02 in here. I'm no expert like these guys but I've bought to many things not to learn something. Try to get most of your stuff from one place. If you start mixing and matching you may not get what you need or what works together. If you buy from a place like Summit, while they are super helpful guys, you won't get the expert advice and attention to detail that these guys can provide. Besides, trying to track everything down is a pain and all the shipping can nickle and dime you. Like my name implies, I'm trying not to get caried away and go over board. I think Mike really hit the nail on the head with the weekend cruiser and what you need. Good luck on your build.

[ArtosDracon]

Don't be afraid to goa bit outside the box when looking for components. I noticed AFCO spring adjusters above with specific rate springs. Going to speedway motors will get you the adjusters at about half the price of the AFCOs most places and any spring you might want. It's what I'm doing for my S10, the savings add up.

[Mkelcy]

Don't be afraid to goa bit outside the box when looking for components. I noticed AFCO spring adjusters above with specific rate springs. Going to speedway motors will get you the adjusters at about half the price of the AFCOs most places and any spring you might want. It's what I'm doing for my S10, the savings add up.

Maybe I'm missing something. The AFCO adjustable spring mounts are $0.04 more at Speedway Motors than at AFCO. I don't see any other adjustable spring mounts on the Speedway site. Just to be clear, the $220 I estimated above was for two spring adjusters and two springs.

On the point about buying from one source - that's nice if you can get everything you want from one vendor, but sometimes it's just not possible. I think of it like getting a computer - you can buy an assembled Dell, HP etc. and you get whatever combination they sell; or you can assemble it yourself and have exactly what you want. I'd rather risk a little hassle putting the car together and have exactly what I want, than get a kit that's a compromise.

That said, it's always good - in the age of the internet - to price shop, to support forum sponsors and to get as much as you can from one vendor because separate shipping costs can add up quickly.

[nicks67camaro]

For the front, I'd go with SC&C upper and lower control arms, with the tall upper ball joints for camber correction (about $1070), AFCO threaded spring adjusters and 500 lb./in. springs (the threaded adjusters allow you to set the front end height very precisely without cutting the spring - about $220), Koni or Bilstein shocks (about $220), a Hotchkis hollow sway bar ($230), 3rd gen IROC box ( tightens and speeds up the steering while providing good feedback - about $300, more if you don't already have power steering for a pump, bracket and hoses - maybe add $200 or so) and disk brakes NOW (about $1,000 for C5 12.7" brakes). All in you're looking at about $3,100 for the front.


Spacepirate

FWIW I am running a very close to this set up on the front. I have the sc&c arms, tall balljoints, but I went with varishock for shocks and Hotchkiss for the front springs and sway bar. It is amazing how well this package works. I'm running c5 brakes with a hydroboost and have a KRC pump and Lee box waiting. Not most high end set up but very stable.

For the rear I have run 3 setups .... Factory monoleaf, (sucked) Global west L2 leaf springs and qa1 shocks, this was not a bad set up. The most recent is the Gbar with varishock coilovers which works awesome.

Other notables is a good pair of seats and an a 3 point belt will make you feel more secure in the car, and provide the feedback that lets you know the car is doing what its is supposed to. I assume you have subframe connectors, and good body mounts these are all important with the cool goodies you put on.

[Ishmael]

Mike, that and if you have no idea about the specs and what works together its nice to know somebody who does like the experts above. I pieced together my brakes and I saved a bit but I hassled the crap out of Noel and Tobin. In the long run I would have saved myself an infinite amount of hassle just going with everything from one source. It would have been worth it for piece of mind alone. I'm not saying to spend money where you don't have to. I'm saying spend wisely and if you are going to drop that kind of cake (for me its serious but not for others with more bank) I would want some assurance. With the guys around here or another expert, you aren't just buying parts; you're also buying their knowledge.
FWIW Spacepirate, my car is just a cruiser and with some of the advice from the guys who posted here, I'm going with global west or SC&C uppers and lowers, Hotchkis drop coils, Summit drop leafs (my choice)for now and some adjustables. My stock spindles will have to do the job and I've already gone with a c4/5 hybrid upfront with LT1 rears (should have gone LS1). The steering box will have to be irok or 600. Subframe connectors and poly replacing the rubber bits to tighten things up. the front sway bar may get changed but I won't be adding one in the rear. I'm part way there and I'll be way under $4000 when I'm done. I don't expect it to or need it to handle like a new car - just better than it does now. That said, you may have bigger plans for the future and should try to build once getting what you need now and doing the rest when you can.

[spacepirate]

Thanks Scott! Yeah it will be my cruiser for a good while. Down the road when I decide to change engine/tranny then I might do more fun stuff with it but for right now I just want a decent ride so its fun to cruise around. Oh and stop quickly. :)

[MrQuick]

If I did purchase the ATX spindles would I still have to machine my old drums to work with the C5 conversion. Does that make sense? I'm just trying to see if that might save me some work down the road as well.

the brakes will bolt on....no need to machine anything. Sorry if your question was answered, I could not tell from all the coil overs and control arms flinging around....you did mention a street cruiser right? LOL

AFX spindles are a great addition...had them on many of my previous cars.

[ProdigyCustoms]

I am not looking for pissing matches but there are a couple recomendations that either blow the OPs budget aprt or do not fit his needs.

The OP cannot spend 25% of his budget on a AFX spindle when a simple redrill (free) of his upper control arm (he needs anyway) mounts will give him almost the same results. In a full out no compromise situation is a AFX spindle better then a free redrill? Sure, but the performance difference is at a high edge the OP will never reach. He is not competitively road racing this car.

What is important to the OP s ride height adjustable ability front and rear and ride comfort adjust ability front and rear, which will not happen with leaf springs. No lowered leaf spring rides great, some are more harsh then others. Fiberglass springs ride like doo doo. I have tons of experience with them, I did a magazine install on my personal car in 1993 with glass leafs. Sold the car i hated the ride so much. To get a rate that is good for handling you have just built a Go kart. Handles good, rides rough. And unless you use blocks (assuming you want the car lower) it gets worse! So some type of 4 link, torque arm, some type of suspension that uses adjustable coil overs in the rear is the only way to get the ride height adjust ability and ride comfort adjust ability the OP wants.

We have multiple coil over rear conversion systems he can do for as little as $1800 with ride height and fully adjustable shocks. On the front he could do just upper arms, got 5 brands of those stating at $375, and re drill his control arm shaft mounting points (free). Lower arms could be rebuilt with Delrin bushings and new ball joints for $225 (no performance advantage to tubular lowers (watching budget). Either a coil over or conventional spring in front with adjustable shocks could be done for $425, A Hotchkis sway bar is $200, A Iroc box would be the cheap way, couple hundred bucks (parts store) , but we could probably squeeze a killer 600 box in here if we tired ($575 with rag joint). A set of tie rods, idler arms, tie rod sleeves, $180, and we have a factory style 4 wheel disc brake conversion for $850.

So for $4250 we can take care of all his needs. Great ride, great handling, great brakes, done!

One thing that was not mentioned if the car does not already have them would be subframe connectors and solid bushings (could be added later, around $400

[ArtosDracon]

I think I was the only other person to suggest subframe connectors, lol, I don't know how people can just gloss over them, it's one of the most necessary changes to these there is. The torsional rigidity of these subframe cars is pathetic. I've gotten more than a few good chuckles when drag racers crack their windshields a couple times a year and still tell me they don't think they need them.

I will agree hands down that you can't get the same ride quality out of a leafspring than you can a coil-over set-up, but if you're choosing either handling or ride comfort, you can get one or the other, leafsprings are so plentiful and often cheap it's amazing how many people continue to just toss them aside. Some 125lb\in three leaf packs with stock rubber bushings will ride pretty nicely IMHO, and won't be a completely slouch with a decent rear swaybar.

For the front, I have to agree with Frank hands down, with the addition that if you go coil-over, don't get one of the silly pigtail spring sets, either get a real set of coil-overs with 2.5" springs or just use a spring adjuster and some straight coil springs. AFCO makes their "Pro-touring shocks that are double adjustable with the knobs on the ends, so you can adjust them on car with a normal coil spring without issue.

[ProdigyCustoms]

Some 125lb\in three leaf packs with stock rubber bushings will ride pretty nicely IMHO, and won't be a completely slouch with a decent rear swaybar.

.

Agreed, 125s do ride nice, problem is most performance aftermarket springs are WAy over that in the 200+ range.

[Mkelcy]

I am not looking for pissing matches but there are a couple recomendations that either blow the OPs budget aprt or do not fit his needs.

I don't think continuing to discuss the OP's options is a "looking for a pissing contest."


The OP cannot spend 25% of his budget on a AFX spindle when a simple redrill (free) of his upper control arm (he needs anyway) mounts will give him almost the same results. In a full out no compromise situation is a AFX spindle better then a free redrill? Sure, but the performance difference is at a high edge the OP will never reach. He is not competitively road racing this car.

The ATS spindles are 25% of the OP's budget, but then a brake kit is $500 less. So C5 brakes with the Guldstrand mod are $1,000 or C5 brakes and the ATS tall spindles are $1,600. Doesn't sound quite so bad put that way.


What is important to the OP s ride height adjustable ability front and rear and ride comfort adjust ability front and rear, which will not happen with leaf springs.

The OP said ride height and ride comfort were important, he didn't say anything about the need to adjust either once he was happy with them.


No lowered leaf spring rides great, some are more harsh then others. Fiberglass springs ride like doo doo. I have tons of experience with them, I did a magazine install on my personal car in 1993 with glass leafs. Sold the car i hated the ride so much. To get a rate that is good for handling you have just built a Go kart. Handles good, rides rough. And unless you use blocks (assuming you want the car lower) it gets worse! So some type of 4 link, torque arm, some type of suspension that uses adjustable coil overs in the rear is the only way to get the ride height adjust ability and ride comfort adjust ability the OP wants.

Perhaps things have changed a bit in the last 17 years. I had over 20,000 miles on the Flex-a-Form composite leafs in my just sold '68 at a 225 lb./in. rate and loved them - MUCH smoother riding than the (I think) 175 lb./in. Hotchkis 2407's I had in the car before. CarlC had (and may still have) Flex-a-Forms in his car and also liked them a great deal. Carl's car was tracked, auto-crossed and generally wrung out with the Flex-a-Forms, and I've tracked and auto-crossed my car (with a much slower driver) with them as well.

Carl said this about the FAF's: "The spring rate may seem high but this spring system rides significantly smoother than the previously installed Guldstrand springs. Less noise, vibration, and harshness are present, and the additional spring rate is a bonus for me. The comparison was done with the same Bilstein shock." http://www.geocities.com/casanoc/ Carl's observations are entirely consistent with my own - the FAFs are smooth and great handling, one of the easiest and best upgrades I made to the car.


We have multiple coil over rear conversion systems he can do for as little as $1800 with ride height and fully adjustable shocks.

I'm pretty sure that for $1800 the OP is going to get a nice box of parts that will have to be welded to his current rear end and either bolted or (hopefully) welded into his car. If he can do all the work himself, and skips getting the welded on rear end checked for straightness after he's done, then $1,800's a good number. If he can't do the install himself, then $1,800 is likely understated by $500 or perhaps much more, depending on local labor rates.


On the front he could do just upper arms, got 5 brands of those stating at $375, and re drill his control arm shaft mounting points (free). Lower arms could be rebuilt with Delrin bushings and new ball joints for $225 (no performance advantage to tubular lowers (watching budget).

I'm a big proponent of stock arms - I had them (stock UCAs and LCAs) in my '68 with delrin bushings all around and the Guldstrand mod for camber correction and that's certainly a direction the OP can take. For a weekend cruiser, in fact, that may be just fine.

With stock UCAs and the G-mod, he'll either need to cut the ears off the UCA mounts or will need to do the G-mod by cutting the UCA mounts off entirely, trimming them and rewelding them in the G-mod position (this is what I did). Using stock UCAs, delrin bushings and the G-mod, the front end costs for camber correction and the UCA could be as low as $125 or so for the delrin bushings, or a bit more if the OP has someone else install the bushings.

The only issue with the G-mod and stock UCAs is that it's not easily reversed because you've substantially modified the UCA mounting point, so if you wanted to go to another camber solution in the future - tall spindles or tall ball joints - you can't without a major rework of the UCA mount.

So, all other things being equal, new UCAs with tall ball joints for camber correction for $515 seem the easiest and most direct solution for the front end and only cost $140 more than UCAs whose principal function is to clear the UCA mounting point after the G-mod for $375.

Finally, while I agree there's no "performance advantage" per se from lower control arms, a properly designed lower control arm will recenter the front wheel in the wheel well and reduce or eliminate rubbing when running big tires and lots of caster.


Either a coil over or conventional spring in front with adjustable shocks could be done for $425, A Hotchkis sway bar is $200, A Iroc box would be the cheap way, couple hundred bucks (parts store) , but we could probably squeeze a killer 600 box in here if we tired ($575 with rag joint). A set of tie rods, idler arms, tie rod sleeves, $180, and we have a factory style 4 wheel disc brake conversion for $850.

So for $4250 we can take care of all his needs. Great ride, great handling, great brakes, done!

The "box of parts" $1,800 rear suspension is what makes you budget work, together with (maybe) smaller front brakes.


One thing that was not mentioned if the car does not already have them would be subframe connectors and solid bushings (could be added later, around $400

I agree on both counts.

I think the upshot of this friendly exchange is that while we have all been busy spending every last cent of the OP's $4,000 budget, it's clear that there are perfectly good solutions that are available for much less than $4,000.

To recap: The front end can be done with UCAs and tall ball joints at $515, Delrin bushings and new ball joints for the stock LCAs for $225, springs and shocks for about $425, a Hotchkis sway bar for $200, an IROC box for $300, if needed, a set of tie rods, idler arm and tie rod sleeves for $180, and Frank's factory style 4 wheel disc brake conversion for $850, for a total of about $2,700. Combine that with the Flex-a-Form composite leafs and shocks of your choice for, say, $800, and the OP is all in for $3,500 with a completely bolt in package. The extra $500 could be spent on solid body bushings and subframe connectors for a really nice (roughly) $4,000 package. :)

[Roberts68]

I just wanted to comment that I for one am benefiting from all of the discussion being in a similar position myself, but without the $4000 burning a hole in my pocket... rather I have a desire to enjoy driving a car I've had for over 2 decades and driven very little because it handles terrible and stops worse.

Thanks to the OP (Spacepirate), Frank, Marcus, Mkelcy and nicks67camaro.
I was about to start a similar thread but I'll hold off a bit now as some ideas have started to cement themselves.

RR:cheers:

[ProdigyCustoms]

Talked with the OP yesterday for a while on the phone. He can do the minor welding for the 4 link install. no worries of axle warping with only (4) weld of 2" each on the top of the tube. but I agree, most people should not entertain welding heavy brackets to rears.

This system does bolt in, but has been torture tested to say the least.

There are different ways to skin this cat. no doubt.

Me, I do not like leafs and my experience started in 91, not ended in 91 (was wrong when i said 93). I was WAY ahead of the Protouring curve then. built a 80 Z28 with transverse leaf front leaf spring (one of the first done), Fiberglass rear leafs, Carrera shock, adjustable sway bars, adjustable control arms, I Roc steering box and was rockin the 16" I Rock wheels and Goodyear Gatorbacks. Out performed a new corvette in slalom and skid pad, go my new kidneys a couple months latter.

I was off a couple years, it was actually 1991 that I first played with glass springs

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
My 80 Camaro story intoro in 1992
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
My 69 Camaro Fiberglass leaf intro

[spacepirate]

WOW guys! I am blown away at all of the help you guys are offering. I'll sit down this weekend and take a look at budget and what I really want to achieve with my setup. I will be sure to post everything when I make my decision.

[MrQuick]

This is mainly a weekend driver so all I really want is a comfortable ride. What do you guys think about the Hotchkis stuff? I only ask because I have a discount coupon for them at the moment.

well....he did say weekend driver. No pissing match from me Frank...you know when I get pissed I'll probably just call. :cheers: LOL

I remember that article too.

[San Diego Camaro]

This is really good stuff guys! Thanks for the bantering and healthy discussion.
Paul

[streetnova74]

Lots of great info on here following this closely as be looking to do this to my 74 nova this winter. Tired of the ****ty handling and want to change from just going straight fast.

[MonzaRacer]

Heck for me run the Ridetech Air Bar with Black series Shock waves, you can run simple paddle switches and small compressor and tank(air ride for now in back only, Give SC&C a call talk to Marcus, get ATS spindles, SPC upper arms, then do some searching for Corvette rotors and you can get calipers from ebay cheap. TADA better handling through replacing weak/bad designed stock parts and get big front brakes. Then look around I found a place to get the S10 Rear disc Pbrake setup complete, locate some salvage yard calipers and new local rotors and a proper 4wl disc master cylinder and $50 adj prop valve from Pep boys.
With some reasonable massaging you would have good set up, And honestly a set of Black series Shockwaves only cost $600 so up front your good to go for cheap, i have a 3 paddle switch set up in my 78 C10 and it works great.
My Monza is probably gonna have Black Series in front, maybe in back or cool ride. Cant do cool ride in front, no room to remote the shocks.
and I am working on a bolt in 4 link for my car so I can sell them.
But honeslty if you choose parts right the ATS setup up front with SPC upper arms and basically stock Corvette brakes(Ebay 4 wheel sets of caliper are going for (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/97-04-C5-GM-Corvette-RED-Z06-Style-Brake-Caliper-Fronts-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2c575ae51dQQitemZ19044 4135709QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries)Fronts only!
Here is set of four, (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CORVETTE-C5-Z06-RED-BRAKE-CALIPERS-1997-2004-NEW-GM-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem53dfbd89b9QQitemZ36023 6026297QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries)sell rears and do the S10 rear disc brakes if you want to be able to run 15 rear brakes for drag racing.

If I had my choice the Air Bar , ATS/SPC up grade would be best bang for buck even if you use coil overs instead of Shock Waves.
Air Bar gives more tire room from what I heard over leafs, and if you use it you can get rid of staggered shocks.
Just some Ideas.
Big front brakes, maybe some S10 rears, and better front suspension and rear suspension if properly researched would be awesome combo. And if you get parts you dont have to add it all right now, just take time and build plan to add parts as you get enough to do job right. But buy all your big parts from the $4k.
Good luck and remember do research, in front best bang for buck IS the ATS/SPC Corvette brake up grade.

[spacepirate]

Thanks for the input Lee. I think you've got the right idea.

[68KMARO]

Great information from all points of view.

rich

[rohrt]

you aren't just buying parts; you're also buying their knowledge.

I like this quote. However it reminds me of buying sound equipment and trying to figure out what the best was. One of my co-workers impressed upon me that they were all good and unless you have the two system side by side you wouldn't know what the difference is. Sound systems are also very subjective and everyone will have a different opinon. Too loud for one and not loud enough for another, turn up/down the base:).


This is mainly a weekend driver so all I really want is a comfortable ride. What do you guys think about the Hotchkis stuff? I only ask because I have a discount coupon for them at the moment.

I noticed no one touched this question. I think the TVS system is around $12-1500. Is the ride to low, to harsh. If used with the tall ball joint and the matching bilstien shocks would it be a bad to go?

Is it the scope creap thing? Just a few more $$ here and you can have the adjustable A-arm and for a few dollars more you can have this and that? I'm not immuned to it either.

Great thread BTW. Gives a person a lot to ponder on.