Car pulls right after dropping front additional 1/2"

[dhardison]

After cutting a coil off my Hotchkis springs my car now sits 1/2" lower than it did with the worn-out factory coils. With the factory coils it had a good alignment, now it pulls to the right.

What exactly should I tell the alignment shop to adjust? toe, caster, camber, etc.

Is this something I can measure and adjust myself?

I'm a newbie with respect to these alignment terms so please be gentle.......

Thanks,
Dan

[JLM]

I would say likely when you replaced the springs it knocked your alignment completely off. Generally it's a good idea to get an alignment done after any major changes in the suspension system. A knowledgable alignment shop should be able to get it back in spec for you.

As far as specs to shoot for, I'm of no use there. I'm sure somebody will chime in.

[dennis68]

You can set camber and toe with a basic level and some string, check the DIY alignment links in this (https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6828) thread. Pull is typically caster related, if it is pulling right you can increase right caster and straighten it out. Move a couple of shims form the front pack to the rear pack on the right side control arm.

[dhardison]

Thanks JLM & Denny. I checked out those links prior to posting my question. There's some good info out there. Thanks for the tips.

Dan

[Norm Peterson]

If all you did was to cut the coils, I'd guess that they ended up at slightly different lengths and/or were re-installed not quite symmetrically. That will give you slightly different ride heights and camber values (this also shows up as cross-camber on the alignment printout). It also leaves you with different cornerweights, which you might be able to diagnose from a slightly different handling "feel" in right vs left turns especially if it's noticeably different from before.

If right vs left caster (cross-caster) was affected much, I'd want to look at the car head-on for a static "lean", followed by an inspection of the control arm bushings and the lower balljoints.

Norm

[dhardison]

Thanks Norm, even with the stock coils the Nova always sat 1/4" lower on the passenger side. When I cut/installed the new coils I tried my best to get everything cut at the same point and installed in the pocket correctly. Even with that the car still sits 1/4" lower on the right.

I have an appointment at a local alignment shop known for working on a lot of muscle and rods. At this point I'm not looking for a race alignment, just one that will not wear my tires out on the HRPT and also be nice to drive the distance. Hopefully they can help me out.

Dan

[David Pozzi]

I'd align with .5 deg neg camber, as much positive caster as they can get as long as it's equal side to side, 1/16" toe in.

Check that your car isn't hitting the bumpstops a lot. check your anti-roll bar for improper preload/twist.

[Steve68]

My car does that too. I put some springs in it, and it sits lower on the pass. side, I've trimmed the bump stops, and I don't have a anti-sway bar,

[chicane67]

You might want to check if the spring is 'clocked' into the upper spring seat correctly, as this will effect the ride height. And to add to possible alignment recommendations, any where between -0.500* to -1.500* camber with as much positive static caster as one could dial into it..... and somewhere in the 'hood of 3/16 toe in to zero toe for starters.



My car does that too. I put some springs in it, and it sits lower on the pass. side, I've trimmed the bump stops, and I don't have a anti-sway bar,


So let me get this straight, you have performed two of the most dangerous things possible. One, you have lowered a chassis so much that it required that you had to trim the bump stops AND two, you do not run a front sta-bar ??

Do you like to live dangerously or what ??

Please, tell me that this chassis isnt driven on the street........

[David Pozzi]

My car does that too. I put some springs in it, and it sits lower on the pass. side, I've trimmed the bump stops, and I don't have a anti-sway bar,

YIKES!!! :drive2:

[Steve68]

It's a drag car, that see's very little street time, and ohhh baby you should see it corner with the 90/10, 3.5 skinnys Cal tracks in the back,

Come on guys give me a little more credit than that, I'm waiting to get some Moroso springs but I want to weigh the front first, thanks for looking out for my safety,

After some passes it sit level, I'm getting ready to do some Rancho 9000's out back, Steve

[chicane67]

The 17's in your signature just kinda made me think about it a little... and I was wondering if it was a 1320 chassis or not. Thats good to hear....

[Steve68]

T, I guess I should add the Nova to my sig, Its a real SS but no matching #'s has a 54in it, and T400 with orig 3:55 multi leaf, going easy it went 12:40@108 with no tuning, may start tuning this Sunday, pull some timing change jets blah, blah, the motor is nothing special, just has pistons LS-6 domes, CC cam 590 range but with small duration for the 3:55 gear and a stock set of heads, bone stock a performer air gap, and the dependable 850, Steve

[zbugger]

Hey Dan, on the sitting lower on one side thing..... What subframe bushings do you have? Are they original? I'm just wondering......

[dhardison]

Allen, Yeah they're replacement rubber originals. They were replaced about 5 years ago.

Dan

[David Pozzi]

Normally a pull to the right on brake application could indicate a worn idler arm. It allows the right tire to toe out.
A worn ball joint could do it too.

[chicane67]

Ahhhh... I see the light now.

Good point out David. There are a few more possibilities that can be contributors here.