'67 GTO LS3 Swap

[CFster]

Hi, we have a '67 GTO with the stock 400 and a 4L60E we installed a few years ago. Now we want to put an LS3 in it.

I've done a bunch of research, and have picked most of my parts. However, there's a few things I'm not entirely clear on. I've scoured many threads on Chevelles, and some GTOs (but mostly different years than mine). I know there are differences...

1. I'm intending on running the stock gas tank, with an external Walbro fuel pump and filter/regulator. Do I need to run some sort of evap system? Purge or vent solenoid? Evap or charcoal canister? Doesn't the LS3 have provisions for this (evap line coming off the motor)? I know the LS3 harness has pinouts for those items.

2. What is the benefit of going with a SpearTech harness rather than the GMPP harness? Are either of these programmable?

3. Will the stock manifolds that come with an LS3 crate motor work in a '67 A-Body? I'm guessing not!

4. If not, how do the Edelbrock short headers compare to the stock manifolds performance wise? I really don't want full length headers and I'm aware there's a power trade off. What other options are there for short or mid length headers or manifolds?

5. I want to keep from moving my transmission at all. Which mounts will put my motor in the stock location? My understanding is the Dingo Sliders position the engine 1/4" higher than stock, Edelbrock's move the engine 3/8" forward from stock and the BRP mounts require you to drill holes in the frame. By stock location, I assume these manufacturers are talking about the rear mounting face of the block right? I mean what else can they use for reference?

6. Am I required to run a smaller alternator than comes with the Corvette accessory drive kit to avoid hitting the inner tie rod linkage? I'm already planning on a Kwik A/C bracket as I have a Vintage Air System in it already.

7. I'm planning on using AutoKraft oil pan but have heard that combination with a 4L60E and headers makes the starter virtually impossible to get at due to the pan's kick outs at the bottom. Any other options I should be looking at?

Thanks and I'll be sure to post plenty of pics of the build once we get going.

-Colin

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[kochevy67]

well I can tell you this, I have a LS2 in my 67 Chevelle which is essentially the same car. I used 68-72 SBC frame mounts along with similar mounts which sort of mimic BRP mounts and yes I had to drill my frame after I welded up the existing holes, I also used a Billet Specialties Tru-Trac drive system due to the fact that the alternator would hit the tie rods, even though I have a rack in my car. I have Edelbrock headers and they fir well except for the one tube on the driver's side had to be massaged.

I used a LH8 Oil pan and it bolts right up with no problems. The starter is accessible but you do have to unbolt the header to drop it.

The trans crossmember had to be moved but my car is a convertible so the crossmember is different from a hardtop. I used a Rick's Hot Rod tank with a in the tank pump along with a Corvette filter which has a return line attached to it. As for the wiring I used the stock harness but I would definitely go with a Speartech Harness if I had to do it over again. I had John from Speartech make a DBW harness for me and it fits like a glove.

I hope this helps if not drop me a pm and I can help you if I am able to do so.

[rockytopper]

You should have no issues using the stock tank without a evap system. I have had no issues with the ls1 I'm running with with the same setup as you have out lined. Be aware also some of the oil pans have clearance isuues with the tie rod ends. I run the modified f-body pan from s&p which has notches in the front corners to clear the tie rods and they barely clear in my case. It all depends on your motor mounts etc.. The f-body manifolds work with your A-body if you donot want to run headers.

[neki67]

W.r.t. #2:
Speartech can make the harness exactly to your liking/customize it. They are using regular GM ECM's and it is up to you whether you go DBW or cable operated throttle. So yes, you can tune them (yourself) with e.g. EFI-live or HP-tuners.

The GMPP kit on the other hand is very complete and very professional but you can't say; 'hey would you like to make the wiring towards the ECM longer so I can (e.g.) mount the ECM in the trunk'. GMPP is using the E67 ECM which is the fastest GM ECM around and also totally tuneable with the aforementioned programs but can only be used in combination with DBW.

W.r.t. #5:
Hooker mounts will mount the engine in the same spot as the 400 you have in now so you don't have to move the trans.

[CFster]

W.r.t. #2:
Speartech can make the harness exactly to your liking/customize it. They are using regular GM ECM's and it is up to you whether you go DBW or cable operated throttle. So yes, you can tune them (yourself) with e.g. EFI-live or HP-tuners.

The GMPP kit on the other hand is very complete and very professional but you can't say; 'hey would you like to make the wiring towards the ECM longer so I can (e.g.) mount the ECM in the trunk'. GMPP is using the E67 ECM which is the fastest GM ECM around and also totally tuneable with the aforementioned programs but can only be used in combination with DBW.

W.r.t. #5:
Hooker mounts will mount the engine in the same spot as the 400 you have in now so you don't have to move the trans.

So, for $600 more I can specify harness length? Are there anymore reasons it's that much more expensive?

Just to confirm, they've cracked the ECM on the LS3 harness for tuning?

[neki67]

So, for $600 more I can specify harness length? Are there anymore reasons it's that much more expensive?
I don't know if the Speartech harness is that much more than the GMPP but I can tell you that you won't be disappointed by all the GMPP features. Like I said; only drawback (if/when you consider it a drawback at all) is you can only go DBW.


Just to confirm, they've cracked the ECM on the LS3 harness for tuning?
Yes, there's no problem tuning/recalibrating/etc. that ECM. I am more or less a novice when it comes to tuning/programming but have managed to swap/recalibrate/change the tune w/o any problem. I know for a fact; both EFI-live and HP tuners support the GMPP E67 ECM's that come with the GMPP LS harness/ECM kits.

[kochevy67]

I will say one thing John at Speartech is the best, I would use his harness. My question to you is if you use a GM harness who are you going to call if you have questions. Plus you can send him the ECM to put a tune in it for you.

[CFster]

Getting ready to pull the trigger on this project:

I have a 4L60E with a non removable bell housing. It's an earlier style, so it will only bolt up with five bolts instead of six. I hope that will be sufficient.

Can anybody verify my part numbers for the flexplate and spacer that I need?

12602448 - Flexplate
12563532 - Spacer

And here's my parts list:

19244097 - LS3 Crate Engine (btw, the GMPP catalog says this engine comes installed with a 2009 throttle body and I should use a 2008 throttle body if I'm using the GM harness, what's up with that?)
19155067 - Corvette Accessory Kit (Pace makes their own kit with is basically the same kit minus the compressor and brackets for $120 less - I'll have to investigate)
K10143 - Kwik Sanden Compressor Mount (up high) for my existing Vintage Air kit.
12635649 - Damper
AutoKraft - Oil Pan
Edelbrock - Mounts
SpearTech - Manual Transmission Harness Kit with ECU
SpearTech - O2 and MAF sensors
Street & Performance - Shorty Headers
Walbro External Pump 255lph
Filter/Regulator NAPA 373 (Corvette style)

As mentioned above, I'm already running a 4L60E with a Compushift controller. I've decided to keep that controller and go with a manual harness - one reason being I'd like to install a Shrifter and it requires the Compushift.

I've also been running a Griffin radiator with a big Spal puller fan. I hope that will be sufficient.

The rest of the parts will be had during the install - lines, fittings, ductwork etc.

[67 goat]

CFster,

I'm very excited about your project. I have a '67 GTO as well and am planning an LS motor swap in the next year. Not sure exactly what I'll use yet, probably whatever I can find used for a good deal, but preferably an LS2, LS3, maybe LQ4/9. I'm currently running a TKO-600 trans which I plan on keeping.

I'm looking forward for your project to start. Keep us posted as best you can!

Oh, and where are you located?

-Jeff

42129

[Nicks67GTO]

Gentlemen. I too have a 67' GTO. I'm going to stay with poncho power for the time being. What exactly are you guys running for engines right now and are you willing to sell them? PM me with details. Thanks!

[CFster]

Motor came in last week.

Actually all I'm waiting on is the harness/ecu, headers and gas tank (decided to go with a tank with internal pump).

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[CFster]

CFster,

I'm very excited about your project. I have a '67 GTO as well and am planning an LS motor swap in the next year. Not sure exactly what I'll use yet, probably whatever I can find used for a good deal, but preferably an LS2, LS3, maybe LQ4/9. I'm currently running a TKO-600 trans which I plan on keeping.

I'm looking forward for your project to start. Keep us posted as best you can!

Oh, and where are you located?

-Jeff

Jeff, I currently have a TKO-600 in a '64 Dodge, with a hydraulic clutch. Nice trans. I'm in CT.


Gentlemen. I too have a 67' GTO. I'm going to stay with poncho power for the time being. What exactly are you guys running for engines right now and are you willing to sell them? PM me with details. Thanks!

Novaguy73, we have the stock 400 in it now (original). It's smoking, so it needs a rebuild. We'll probably just put it in a crate for a while. We're going to hold onto it.

[Nicks67GTO]

Hey as you go along are you planning to keep a detailed sheet on parts, part numbers and expenses to get this swap done? I think it would be interesting to see a real world expense with this swap.

[CFster]

Yeah, we are a repair shop (of sorts), so everything is going in a work order.

[cspecken]

Curious where you purchased the motor and cost?

[CFster]

Got the accessories on. Still waiting for the right A/C pulley...

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[CFster]

Does anybody know where I can get small block chevy engine frame mounts for a '67?

[phasemaster1]

Came across these http://carshop.carshopinc.com/product_info.php/products_id/110328/CSP2380

[CFster]

Those look strange. They don't look like factory small block frame perches. They look like they set back the mounts or something.

[phasemaster1]

I think they actually set forward. Look at b-man's post #163 where he used chevy mounts and had to drill new holes in frame cross member.

https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?48361-Taking-the-plunge-LS3-into-64-Tempest.-Need-help-with-shopping-list./page9

[kochevy67]

Does anybody know where I can get small block chevy engine frame mounts for a '67?

Sure do in my garage. PM me I have a set although I don't think they will work as they place the motor to far forward, at least that was the case with my 67 Chevelle.

[CFster]

Sure do in my garage. PM me I have a set although I don't think they will work as they place the motor to far forward, at least that was the case with my 67 Chevelle.

What was your solution then?

[CFster]

Some more pics:

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[CFster]

Some video of the stock 400 sound.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3wbuhox0JU8&hd=1

[CFster]

We weighed the car for a baseline:

LF-1081lbs, RF-1063lbs, Front-2144lbs
LR-813lbs, RR-807lbs, Rear-1620lbs

Total-3764lbs

[steve671]

Great thread. I'm very interested in seeing what the weight is after the swap.

[CFster]

Got the motor in on Saturday. What a piece of cake. The 4L60E that was in there had to move forward about 3/4" and that was that. The only interference issues I have is the left side header hits the brake junction block, the transmission lines have to be rerouted, and I have to move the washer tank heh, heh.

A few more pics:

Empty bay with new Chevelle small block motor mounts installed.

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Down it goes.

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In.

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The front end barely went down at all with the LS motor. Seriously. It was about this high without an engine. Going to have to see about some new springs...

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So, really that was the easy part. Now comes all the plumbing, wiring etc. That's what's going to take me until spring!

P.S. Does anybody know where to get a power steering pressure hose that goes from my box to the pump? Are there any issues with a new style pump meant to power a rack now plugged into a box? I understand racks need less PSI...

[phasemaster1]

Which motor mounts did you end up using And did you have to drill new holes? Thanks

[CFster]

Small block Chevelle frame brackets and motor mounts. Edelbrock adapters. Elongated the holes (downwards) 1/8" per Edelbrock's instructions.

[Badger]

Great thread!! Highly interested in doing this too. What oil pan did you use?

[CFster]

AutoKraft.

[CFster]

A quick update. Ordered some suspension and brake pieces.

From SC&C (thanks to Marcus for being so helpful)

-Stage 2 AFX front end kit
-SPC lower control arms
-Currectrac rear upper and lower arms
-4 SPC springs
-4 double adjustable VariShocks
-Rear Spohn Pro-Touring sway bar

From Kore3 (Tobin was very helpful as well!)

-4 way C6 Z06 brakes with silver calipers (no Corvette logo)

[CFster]

Kore3 brakes came in. They're enormous.

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[Samckitt]

I assume this pic shows the Kwik AC relocation bracket installed. Is the alternator relocated as well, or using stock bracketry?

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[CFster]

The alternator is in the stock location for the C5 accessory drive kit.

[ProBell]

Looks good. I hope to stop by and see you and the car soon. Randy

[CFster]

Randy, we've been so busy moving snow all we did was get the engine dropped in. I need to get this done by May! Gonna have some long nights I think. Swing by, and I'll show you the car anyway.

[rohrt]

Looking forward to your comments once you get to drive it. Like to go this direction with my 68 bird in the future.

[CFster]

Got a few more things done.

Transmission cooler installed.
Fuel line run to tank
P/S lines done (bought a C5 pressure line, cut the fitting off the end, reflared it with the nut off the old line going to the box)
Got most of the hoses on with Napa shrink fit hose clamps
Got the engine wiring harness installed - have to wire to the car though!
ECU is going to be mounted right behind the RF headlight onto the inner fender (tucked up and out of the way)
Replumbed all the brake lines since I had to cut the combination valve off the inner frame rail because the header was hitting it. That and my new disc brake setup requires a prop valve.

I still have finish the wiring, then get some pipe bent up to the header collectors and I can start it. Then I'll start on suspension, brakes, rims/tires.

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Yes I know it's a universal hose. I hope to find a real one to fit in the future!

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AFX spindles finally showed up!

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[cspecken]

Did you have to drill holes in the cross member to install the small block mounts, or were you able to utilize the factory holes for for the original Pontiac mounts?


Thanks



Small block Chevelle frame brackets and motor mounts. Edelbrock adapters. Elongated the holes (downwards) 1/8" per Edelbrock's instructions.

[CFster]

Did you have to drill holes in the cross member to install the small block mounts, or were you able to utilize the factory holes for for the original Pontiac mounts?


Thanks

Elongated the holes in the crossmember downwards 1/8". Used small block Chevelle frame brackets and mounts as in my quote above.

[BanditDave]

Is that all you are using for the trans cooler? If so, I would reconsider that. That thing will not produce nearly enough cooling for that trans....IMHO. If others have used that successfully then I stand corrected, but it looks like no where near enough.

That aside, great project man!!! Looking real good!

[CFster]

Got it running last this week. It's amazing how much it sounds like a late model Corvette or Camaro even with the Pypes exhaust.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5wkT1viszGQ

[gasfumes]

Are u pleased with the gmpp harness?

[CFster]

Yeah, it's a Speartech harness, which is really the same thing for the most part, except programmed and cut to length. Piece of cake.

[analyte]

Great project!!

[CFster]

Is that all you are using for the trans cooler? If so, I would reconsider that. That thing will not produce nearly enough cooling for that trans....IMHO. If others have used that successfully then I stand corrected, but it looks like no where near enough.

That aside, great project man!!! Looking real good!


No problems so far. Been putting a lot of miles on it while I wait for a rear diff and rims to come in. Then we'll get started with the suspension and brake work as well.

[BossaNova]

Hey. Don't forget to weigh that thing.

[andrewb70]

I think they actually set forward. Look at b-man's post #163 where he used chevy mounts and had to drill new holes in frame cross member.

https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?48361-Taking-the-plunge-LS3-into-64-Tempest.-Need-help-with-shopping-list./page9

The 3 hole mounts are correct for a 67. B-man used the 68-72 big block mounts which are incorrect for the earlier cars. That's why he had to re-drill the holes.

Andrew

[CFster]

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12 Bolt looks small with those mammoth brakes on there...

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[cspecken]

Looks good. Can you give the details on the rear axel (Gear Ratio, type of center section, etc)? I am in the market for one but have yet to pull the trigger for my 64 GTO.


Chris

[rocketrod]

Looks great and sounds awesome!!!

[CFster]

Looks good. Can you give the details on the rear axel (Gear Ratio, type of center section, etc)? I am in the market for one but have yet to pull the trigger for my 64 GTO.


Chris

It's a Moser 12 bolt, 33 spline with 3.55 True Track diff. It's 57 3/4" wide, which is narrowed about 1" on each side.

[ProdigyCustoms]

Nice looking rear sir! Now where are those wheel photos? That deep lip is going to look sick!

[CFster]

Well since the man asked!

Courtesy of Frank at Prodigy, I just received some Boyd's PT-09s. I'm very impressed with the workmanship and think they'll look great on the car!

Can't wait to get the rear and suspension in - hopefully this coming week.

With Frank's help, the rear was narrowed 1" on each side and the backspacing on the rear wheels adjusted to match so there would be more of a dish in the rear.

Front:

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Rear:

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Some test fits on the brakes:

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[ProdigyCustoms]

That rear end narrow and deeper lip will make a huge difference in the car. Those GTOs do not have a very deep lip at all with the stock width rear.

The Boyds have been really impressing me with their quality especially comparing cost to quality.

Can''t wait to see this one done.

Here is a GTO we have been working doing it from the bottom up; literally starting under the car, now we will freshen the paint.

When doing the suspension, brakes, wheels and rear, we narrowed rear and built deep lip 20s on rear and 19" front

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[Ron.in.SoCal]

CF - rear and parts look GREAT!


The Boyds have been really impressing me with their quality especially comparing cost to quality.


Hey Frankie - I recently saw these Boyds on a72 Chevelle at a car show on Father's day. I can't tell you how clean they look in person! I was like, 'Boyd's?" Yep, very impressed.

[CFster]

Thanks Ron!

Frank, nice car. Details?

[rohrt]

Car looks and sounds great!

What did you use for bearing ends on the rearend?
What are the breaks?

[CFster]

Thanks.

It's a flush bearing end (not tapered) with bolt in axles.

The brakes are C6 Z06 all the way around.

[ProdigyCustoms]

Thanks Ron!

Frank, nice car. Details?

The convertible has been a work in progress for a couple years. We had it for a while and did a "reverse frame off" without painting the car, added front and rear Speedtech coil over conversion. Installed one of Our Prodigy Customs Total Car G Machine Street Brake Packages with 12.19 (6) piston F and 12.19 (4) rear. We narrowed the original rear, added big Ford Torino ends and built the wheels. Then it went to Corvette Master and got a badd ass poncho motor and 700R. Now it is back to us for a freshen all over on the paint, then off to High Performance Pontiac for a feature shoot.

[ProdigyCustoms]

Colin's rear is a bit unique. Because he already owned his brakes for the original rear, we wanted to upgrade to the larger 3.15 Torino bearing, but kept the original bolt pattern. A coordination effort between Tobin at Kore 3 (Thanks Tobin) Prodigy and Moser and we figured it out.

If your starting from scratch and DO NOT already own your brakes, a Torino end is the easiest way to go.


Car looks and sounds great!

What did you use for bearing ends on the rearend?
What are the breaks?

[CFster]

Got the suspension mostly done. Still have to install swaybars and align it.

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Still trying to figure out ride height. The initial height with the SPC springs had it slammed (in my opinion).

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We raised it an 1.5" on the lift and I think that's where I like it. The SPC LCAs come with shims so the front shouldn't be a problem, but for the rear I'll have to get spacers.

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[ProdigyCustoms]

Wow, Wow, Wow! Looks like we nailed the backspace and rear width. The deep lip makes such a difference on these cars. That is a really good looking wheel for that car.

[CFster]

I like them too! Thanks.

We've been going back and forth on the ride height. I though that in the first few pics it was too low, then Marcus sent me some scans of some old Pontiac ads - these cars really sat pretty low from the factory. I think it will be a compromise somewhere in the middle - the first shot of the car has only 3-1/4" from the front crossmember to the ground. And the AutoKraft pan sits a hair lower than the crossmember on the rear edge, so I don't want to take any chances.

Can't wait to get it lined up and drive it.

FYI, also have a Shrifter coming...

[eric1967]

Wow, I can not believe that is the same car. Looks great. Thanks for posting Eric

[cspecken]

Looks really good!!! What size rim/tire combination did you go with and what kind of back space did you have?


Thanks

[CFster]

Got the ride height where I think we want it. Savitske's suspension is awesome - I think we're going to have to put some seats in it. I almost ended up in the passenger seat while cornering!

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[rocketrod]

Very nice!

[ponchoblue]

great car what was the parts # on the front brakes how do you like the varishocks

[therobski]

new guy here, nice build/project. Been an Olds guy all my gearhead life, my 64 F-85 is going with a built 65 425. Can't get myself over to the "dark side yet"
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[CFster]

Ok, this thing rides way too stiff. What can I do to soften it up?

[ProdigyCustoms]

What springs does it have in it? Try only 3 to 4 clicks in the shocks.

[jy211]

What springs does it have in it? Try only 3 to 4 clicks in the shocks.
look at that customer service :)

[rockytopper]

Ok, this thing rides way too stiff. What can I do to soften it up? If you are running SC&C springs don't do any thing yet. I felt the same way right after I had mine installed but after a few miles they softened up and are perfect now and I ride on some pretty rough farm roads. FYI I have the same issue as you trying to stay in my seats. I put my 90 year old mother in-law in the floor board between the seats when she didn't tighten her seat belt enough. I was showing the family how well it cornered. The mother in-law thought it was funny but my boss in the back not so much. The car looks great !

[CFster]

SPC springs.

Backed the shocks down to 3 with no improvement. Mark at SC&C gave me a few things to check out...

[CFster]

look at that customer service :)

Frank didn't sell me the suspension but he did sell me the rims and diff! And yes he does give great customer service.

[jy211]

He helps with the knowledge...

[CFster]

Found the problem. Took the front bar off and it rides much, much better. The Hellwig bar has a clevis type of end link set up, that can rotate in any direction then you tighten it down. I think what I should have done is drive the car, let it find it's spot then tighten it. Must have been binding and not allowing the bar to twist or something (resulting in a much higher spring rate).

[gearbanger]

Interesting.

[cspecken]

I am going to be installing the same front suspension on my 64 GTO, and would like to know the spacer configuration you ended up going with?


Thanks in advance

[CFster]

Hi Chris.

I went with an aluminum spacer and two shims.

[John Wright]

Glad that you found your rough ride issue, or whatever with that added extra spring rate....sometimes it's hard to isolate those types of things.

[Dobster]

Killer stance..
Very nice GOAT...
LS sounds GREAT...

[devwil68]

holly craP!

[Pontiacken]

CFster,
I am in progress of a build on a 67 LeMans and I am using a LS376/480 with a 4L80E trans. I have a couple of questions if you do not mind:
1. Did you have any clearence issues of any kind using the AutoKraft oil pan? If so what did you do to correct them?
2. Can you tell me what weighed in making your choice to use SpearTech over the GMPP harness and ECU?

Thanks a bunch-Ken

[CFster]

Ken,

No clearance issues at all - with the stock steering knuckles. Once I put the AFX spindles on now the tie rods hit the pan at full lock (more steering lock than before).

You probably will have clearance issues with that 4L80E though. It's quite a bit bigger than a 4L60E. You'll probably have to modify the tunnel.

What weighed in my choice to go with SpearTech harness? Naivete? Inexperience? SpearTech does things like disabling the VATs, labeling the harness connectors clearly and builds it to length - plus just about anything else you want done. Now that I've done it, I could probably do the same with a GMPP harness and ECU if I do it again. I'm learning some things with HPTuners too.

[CFster]

Killer stance..
Very nice GOAT...
LS sounds GREAT...



holly craP!

Thanks guys...

[CFster]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[CFster]

wmhjr, empty your Inbox!

I know you're subscribed heh, heh...

[Pontiacken]

Beautiful wheel and paddle shifter. Details please.

[CFster]

It's a Shrifter from Twist Machine, and a Grant #794 Corvette style wheel. 14" with a flat offset. The Shrifter is a couple inches deep so I made sure I changed to a flat wheel otherwise it would be in my stomach.

[Pontiacken]

What transmission shifter and control box are you using or going to use?

[CFster]

I have a 4L60E with Compushift controller that's been in the car for a couple years. The Shrifter is a direct plug and play.

[Pontiacken]

Still drooling over the new wheel and shifter! How long before you think you will get them in? Please post some pics.

[CFster]

May be a couple weeks. Some stuff came up at work.

Also, I was driving along last night and the fuel line popped off the rail. Sprayed gas all over the hot motor and exhaust. Fortunately it didn't burn down. Damned Russell quick disconnect fittings --> http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=351873

[Pontiacken]

I am truly glad you were able to come away only wet and not flamming! Thanks for sharing because those fittings were on my fuel system list. Not anymore though.

[Pontiacken]

CFster,

I started a thread today on my project if you are interested. https://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.php?82002-1967-Lemans-Project-LS376-480-amp-4L80E-Build

[CFster]

Car looks great Ken. Anybody can bolt parts on (like me), but a build with fabrication in a home garage always impresses the hell out of me (coming from somebody who can't weld to save his life!).

-Colin

[CFster]

And, as feared I have the dreaded Spectra gas tank sucking air problem. As in Spectra SUCKS. After reading up on them on a few boards I can't believe they boned so many people.

I never really ran it down to 1/4 tank since the swap - going around a corner and it shut down on me. I had the tank for over a year sitting in a box, but of course didn't find out about the problem until long after I bought it. Just hoped I was one of the lucky ones.

Now I have to come up with a solution. There's no way I'm paying a G-note for a Rick's tank. Perhaps a Tanks Inc in-tank Walbro with fuel tray?

[Pontiacken]

Colin, Tanks Inc. may very well be the way I go with this issue. I have been reading that spectra has added a baffle to their tank now. However, I do not know if they are doing anything for existing owners of the original tanks. By the way don't be to impressed with my fabrication skills yet. This was my first time at welding and taking on a project anywhere this in depth before. But that is why it is so fun!

[CFster]

So I finally got the ride straightened out for the most part. Part of the problem was these:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Those end links are no good. At least not for me. They appear to only allow movement in one direction. The bar was binding just going down the road straight. I tried loosening both clevis's and let them rotate to their natural position then tightened them back up. Problem was the position they fell into had my bar yanked over 1". You can see where the tire rubbed the bar. And even loose the bar would bind. Made for an extremely stiff ride up front. The front wheels were skating over the bumps and it would just about yank the steering wheel out of my hand. I replaced them with standard links from the parts store. Problem solved. Rides much better now.

Mark Savitske's suspension is something else. Combined with Bridgestone RE11s the car has a much higher limit than I do. I think I'd have to do something pretty stupid on the street for it to get away from me.

Also, as a side note, if you're going put C6 Z06 brakes on your car then use a 1" manual master cylinder and a 9" dual diaphragm booster. I tried both an 11" standard and 8" dual diaphragm booster and it wasn't enough. The application I looked up was for a '74 Corvette. Parts available from NAPA. They really are phenomenal brakes. Thanks to Tobin at KORE3.

[Pontiacken]

Colin I sent you a PM. Ken

[HighOctane]

Nice GTO man! Hell yeah!

[jgpclone]

man ur car is comming along just nice.

[LeighP]

The adjustable links I have on my front bar use heim joints on the bottom so they can swivel some.....looks like the set up on yours doesn't allow any movement at all?
Good luck on the project.

[Pontiacken]

Colin,

Sent you another PM.

Ken

[CFster]

Sorry Ken, I'll respond as soon as I can. Kind of busy at work up here in New England getting ready for Irene.

[CFster]

Put some proper tail pipes on:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[CFster]

Also some engine covers. I haven't really figured out what color scheme I'm going to use, but I'd like the covers, intake tube and possibly a radiator fill panel to be the same. I'd like to find somebody who can put some lettering on the covers - like P O N T I A C and then L S 3 underneath or something.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[CFster]

My paddle shift doesn't work. It's sending signal to the box that's wired into my Compushift but the transmission isn't responding...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[Pontiacken]

Colin-Tailpipes look great and your engine covers too. They will be awsome once finished. Did you make a pattern and have them made at a metal shop? Wish I could help you out but I don't know anything about paddle shifters. Did everything come out OK up there after Irene? Ken

[CFster]

The covers were made by Roto-Fab. I had to cut the right side to clear the Kwik bracket and compressor. Those are the only guys I've found that do custom aluminum covers.

I found out what the problem was with the paddle shift. Turns out that function has to be "turned on" in the Compushift - with an optional display screen that I don't have. I have the original first generation unit. At that time the display was optional and I could set shift firmness and timing with a screw driver. So, I had to send it off to Compushift to be flashed to the latest software and get the screen.

No ill effects from Irene. Some parts of the state and north east in general got it a lot worse than us. Just had to contend with no power for a few days. Thanks.

[Pontiacken]

How about your fuel line connector issue. Any final resolution on that?

[CFster]

Well, I cut a length of plastic tubing and slid it into the fitting over the line, so now the clip can't collapse. I gave it a good yank and it seems secure. It's really a piss poor design - you're relying on the spring tension of a plastic clip to keep the line on. If it's used more than a couple times, as in compressed with your fingers to remove it, then it loses it's spring and it's junk.

One of these days I'll flare the metal tube and put a real screw fitting on it...

[rockytopper]

I'd like to find somebody who can put some lettering on the covers - like P O N T I A C and then L S 3 underneath or something.

I could hook you up with some custom letters or logo cut from aluminum you could either have them welded on from the back side or make them thicker so that they could just be screwed on from the back. GTO, arrow logo, lS3, PONTIAC, etc... what ever your heart desires. If interested shoot me a PM.

I'm still curious on how the paddle works as far as keeping the trans in gear at above electronic rpm shift point. Good luck with it.

[CFster]

Thanks rockytopper, I might take you up on that.

So far I'm kind of lukewarm on the paddle shift. By default the 4L60E doesn't have engine braking. So, if I downshift with the paddle from say 3rd to 2nd at a decent clip there's no real indication that it shifted. The trans goes into kind of a freewheel - I'm not sure what the technical explanation is for it. But if I hit the gas it's like there's no gear there - have to slow down more.

Sunnex makes a valve that you can put in to enable engine braking in 3-2-1, so I might give that a shot, though I would like to have it in 4th as well, but that's impossible I'm told.

[cspecken]

Did you have any problems installing the new front suspension? Were you able to use any sort of spring compressor or were they too stiff? I am getting ready to install the same setup on my car, which currently has a bare frame. I am going to set the body back down and set the old motor in place to give the front end some weight.

[CFster]

No not really. I just used a screw jack under the lower control arm (on a lift). The springs aren't ridiculously stiff. You could use a floor jack too. You'll need to put the shocks in before though. No way to fit them up through the hole.

[CFster]

Decided to go with a slightly taller tire (45 vs. 40). I think they fill up the wells a little better and made a big difference in ride.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[73z-6sp]

fvgbhnjm

[CruizinKev]

oh yea looks great!!!

[cspecken]

Hi did you have any issues with the SPC upper control arms and the ball joints? Take a look at my issue in the following post

https://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.php?84545-SPC-Upper-A-Arm-Installation-Issue&p=854129#post854129

[CFster]

Chris,

Here's a cropped and blown up pic of mine, so sorry about the quality. Haven't had a chance to get under the car again. As you can see there is a gap in mine as well. It's centered by the bolts. Never really thought about it until you brought it up.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[Pontiacken]

Colin - Your GTO keeps getting better and better! Question- how is the heatsink trans coller working out for you? I really like the simplicity of it and not to mention ease of install. Thank you again for all your advice and your great thread! Ken

[CFster]

Unfortunately not well. BanditDave was right - it didn't provide enough cooling for the trans. Nothing obvious was happening, until I plugged in my Compushift display which told me my temp was shooting up to over 240 degrees over the summer. I had a Derale stacked plate oil cooler with fan that I was going to use in another car - ended up taking the fan off (because it wouldn't fit with it on) and put it in front of the radiator. Now I haven't been able to get it over 200 degrees.

BTW, your car is coming along great Ken!

[Pontiacken]

Unfortunately not well. BanditDave was right - it didn't provide enough cooling for the trans. Nothing obvious was happening, until I plugged in my Compushift display which told me my temp was shooting up to over 240 degrees over the summer. I had a Derale stacked plate oil cooler with fan that I was going to use in another car - ended up taking the fan off (because it wouldn't fit with it on) and put it in front of the radiator. Now I haven't been able to get it over 200 degrees.

BTW, your car is coming along great Ken!

Thank you Colin. Did you run hard lines to the front then or stay with the flexable?

[CFster]

Flexible lines all the way.

[wayward]

[QUOTE=CFster;847942]Decided to go with a slightly taller tire (45 vs. 40). I think they fill up the wells a little better and made a big difference in ride.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/QUOTEThis.

You have done an amazing job on this car...

I have a 67 conv. what size are the tires and wheels...

thanks,
EL

[CFster]

Thanks EL.

Fronts are 18x8 5" BS with P245/45r18
Rears are 18x9 5.75" BS with P275/45r18

-CF

[Later-A-body]

I really enjoy reading your thread. It has been one of the projects that motivated me to go forward with my LS swap in my Pontiac. Did you ever get a chance to weigh the car again to see the difference? My car will still be heavy even after the swap. Great work!

[CFster]

I really enjoy reading your thread. It has been one of the projects that motivated me to go forward with my LS swap in my Pontiac. Did you ever get a chance to weigh the car again to see the difference? My car will still be heavy even after the swap. Great work!

Sorry haven't had a chance to weight it again. Have to re-borrow the scales...

[CFster]

Got some new heim joint swaybar end links courtesy of Marcus at SC&C and Hellwig.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[wayward]

when you measure your rear housing is the 57 3/4" wide flange to flange or brake face to face?

Thanks...
Eric

[Dave@Hellwig]

Good to see that you got the end links. They will work best if you orient the clevis so that the bolt attaching the rod end points at the lower ball joint as shown in the picture.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/401229777-1.jpg

[CFster]

when you measure your rear housing is the 57 3/4" wide flange to flange or brake face to face?

Thanks...
Eric

Eric, that's outside flange to flange.

[CFster]

Good to see that you got the end links. They will work best if you orient the clevis so that the bolt attaching the rod end points at the lower ball joint as shown in the picture.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/401229777-1.jpg

Thanks Dave, I'll repoint them (though they've been fine so far).

[CFster]

Added some lettering and Pontiac Vibe fender emblems to the coil covers:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[Pontiacken]

Hey Colin - That made those covers "come alive" as compared to the plain finish. They look great!

On a different subject Tobin at Kore 3 is telling me to use a 9" dual diaphram booster. If you do not mind, which booster are you using?

Thanks- Ken

[CFster]

Thanks Ken.

Yeah, a 9" dual diaphragm booster with a 1" bore manual master cylinder. I think the application was an early 70s Corvette.

[csouth]

Love the coil covers. That definitely gives the engine compartment a "finished" look.

[Pontiacken]

Thanks Colin!

Ken

[CFster]

So, I got these bolstered seat foams from TMI Products. They look great, but now you have to be a midget to fit in the car. The cushions are a LOT taller than before. No good.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

So, i tried some Procars. You can see how much lower they are. They're nice, but too tight around the thighs.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

This week I bought a set of 04-06 GTO seats on eBay. They're in really nice condition. I'm sure mounting them will be a challenge though!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[BBC71Nova]

Those seats will look great and are really nice. Too bad Chevy never made any cool "Nova" seats :).

Were those the vinyl or leather pro-car seats? They look nice. I keep going back and forth between those and the Corbeau sport seats.

Thanks!

[Pontiacken]

Colin,

If you are just doing the front GTO seat conversion it is not too bad. I am no expert by any means but if you have not look at my thread toward the bottom of page 5 and you can see what I have done. What I have not finished on the fronts is the rear mounts for the seat tracks. I should be getting the brackets I had made this week or next week. It was one of those favor things so I have had to wait a couple of months. Good luck! Ken

[CFster]

Those seats will look great and are really nice. Too bad Chevy never made any cool "Nova" seats :).

Were those the vinyl or leather pro-car seats? They look nice. I keep going back and forth between those and the Corbeau sport seats.

Thanks!

Those were the vinyl ProCars. Our intention was to recover them to match the rear at some point.

[CFster]

Colin,

If you are just doing the front GTO seat conversion it is not too bad. I am no expert by any means but if you have not look at my thread toward the bottom of page 5 and you can see what I have done. What I have not finished on the fronts is the rear mounts for the seat tracks. I should be getting the brackets I had made this week or next week. It was one of those favor things so I have had to wait a couple of months. Good luck! Ken

Ken, how low are your front seat cushions compared to the OEM seats?

Thanks,
-Colin

[85coupe50]

Very nice build... The GTO seats are more of a one size fits all where those ProCar seats are more tailored to a person that is not my size. I would have to get a factory seat like the GTO as well.

[Pontiacken]

Ken, how low are your front seat cushions compared to the OEM seats?

Thanks,
-Colin

Colin,

Well I am not sure as the factory seats have been out for years. What I can do is measure from the floor pan up to the cushion and give you that. By feel they do set higher than the OEM and that was the biggest challenge. Some compromise had to happen between where they felt the best to me vs. how high I am going to have to put the rear brackets to ensure unimpeded travel and adjustability. Both front seats are still out of the car from the rear conversion but as soon as I get the rear brackets in place and I can give you good hard measurment I will do that.

Ken

[CFster]

Colin,

Well I am not sure as the factory seats have been out for years. What I can do is measure from the floor pan up to the cushion and give you that. By feel they do set higher than the OEM and that was the biggest challenge. Some compromise had to happen between where they felt the best to me vs. how high I am going to have to put the rear brackets to ensure unimpeded travel and adjustability. Both front seats are still out of the car from the rear conversion but as soon as I get the rear brackets in place and I can give you good hard measurment I will do that.

Ken

Nah, no need to do that. I'm fitting the seats already. I'm trying to get them as low as possible. The biggest challenge is the rear brackets. There's kind of a hump in the floor in the middle so if I put them all the way down the the seat motors will hit the carpet when I move the seat forward.

Yours look great. If I do decide to do the rears I'm sure I'll be calling on you for advice!

[CFster]

Very nice build... The GTO seats are more of a one size fits all where those ProCar seats are more tailored to a person that is not my size. I would have to get a factory seat like the GTO as well.

Yeah the ProCars are for somebody with a skinny ass and spindly legs - that's not me!

[CFster]

The passenger seat is bolted in.

Bracket modification:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Just a little tall (for me, I'm a big guy) but doable. Have to see how it feels down the road. They go way back though - you can see how far up the seat belt real is. I can stretch my legs out almost straight.

That trim piece on the side that holds the buttons is actually the lowest part of the seat itself. It's basically touching the carpet. It could conceivably be trimmed if we were to lower it any further. We had to space up the rear of the seat because the floor has a hump in it directly underneath, so it was kinda teetering on it. The driver's side seems to have a flatter floor - perhaps we can get the seat a hair lower there.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[Johnston Motorsports]

subscribing....love the build.

[Pontiacken]

Colin,

I need to order an accessory drive and you had mentioned Pace having one that came without the AC compressor. I will be using Vintage Air as well and so I was wondering did you get your accessory drive kit from Pace and if so do you still have the part #?

Thanks Ken

[CFster]

Ken,

Yes I did get the kit as you describe it from Pace. I'll get that part number for you when I get back to the office in the morning. I also used a Kwik bracket for the A/C compressor.

-Colin

[CFster]

Here you go Ken. Part #19155167 --> http://paceperformance.com/i-6485405-19155167-gmpp-accessory-drive-system-without-a-c-fits-ls2-ls3-ls7-engines.html

What was confusing is it looks like a GM number, similar to their full accessory kit. However, this is a number that Pace came up with after they modified it.

Also it looks like the price went up about $110 since I bought mine in '10.

[Pontiacken]

Thank you Sir!

[Pontiacken]

Colin,
I just sent you a PM. I have a question about that tube and sensor going from the side of the throttle body then over the top to the pass side head.

Thanks,
Ken

[TMIproducts]

Hey there,

Tim at TMI Products over here. Quick question for you...did you replace the frames and foam at the same time? If so, they will sit higher than an original, worn out bucket seat.

I'm 6'1" tall and in my 66 Chevelle with buckets, I've always been too tall for it. When I got the car it had worn out upholstery and I was too tall. When I had them reupholstered at a shop they were super firm and I sat super high. When I redid them with all of TMI's foam and upholstery I sat lower but my head will still barely scrape the headliner if I'm sitting upright and not slouched.

I've been meaning to do some surgery to the seat tracks and lower them. Plus I don't like how they don't get back far enough so I might just get a different set of tracks all together.

BTW, You have one of the nicest GTO's I've ever seen. I think I'm in love.

[CFster]

Hey there,

Tim at TMI Products over here. Quick question for you...did you replace the frames and foam at the same time? If so, they will sit higher than an original, worn out bucket seat.

I'm 6'1" tall and in my 66 Chevelle with buckets, I've always been too tall for it. When I got the car it had worn out upholstery and I was too tall. When I had them reupholstered at a shop they were super firm and I sat super high. When I redid them with all of TMI's foam and upholstery I sat lower but my head will still barely scrape the headliner if I'm sitting upright and not slouched.

I've been meaning to do some surgery to the seat tracks and lower them. Plus I don't like how they don't get back far enough so I might just get a different set of tracks all together.

BTW, You have one of the nicest GTO's I've ever seen. I think I'm in love.

Tim, the frames were OEM. The foams came from you guys. I'm a big guy (6'5"), so even if I had just used stock foams they probably would have sat too high for me as well.

We made some brackets for the late model seats we put in. Lowered them basically until they're touching the floor, and they go waaay back so legroom isn't a problem.

Thanks for the compliment!

[robbie9999]

can I please enquire as to where you got the rail covers from or what year there from ?

Rob

[CFster]

Roto-Fab made the coil covers. I assume that's what you're asking. I got them blank (see earlier in this thread) and finished them with some paint and decals. The Pontiac emblems are off a Vibe.

[wayward]

I really love the stance and proportions of your car. I was wondering what your measurements from the frame (cross member etc) front and rear is currently on your car. I saw some reference of front crossmember but I believe that was before you shimmed the front. I am setting mine up with similar suspension and tire size. I need a starting point for my drive line angle.

Thanks for the time and info.

Eric

[CFster]

Thanks Eric. I'll get back to you with some measurements tomorrow. I ended up shimming the front and rear springs.

[1989GTA]

Read the whole thread. What a nice build you did. I am doing something similar but into a 1965 Buick Skylark. One question. Do you remember what size/length serpintine belt you used? Thanks.

[CFster]

Read the whole thread. What a nice build you did. I am doing something similar but into a 1965 Buick Skylark. One question. Do you remember what size/length serpintine belt you used? Thanks.

The belt is NAPA # 25-061010. Never measured it. I'm sure if you call NAPA they can tell you how long it is.

[KnightMare]

Man I can't wait to get started on mine. What mm brake kit is that from KORE3?

[CFster]

I really love the stance and proportions of your car. I was wondering what your measurements from the frame (cross member etc) front and rear is currently on your car. I saw some reference of front crossmember but I believe that was before you shimmed the front. I am setting mine up with similar suspension and tire size. I need a starting point for my drive line angle.

Thanks for the time and info.

Eric

Eric, from the center of the lowest point on the engine crossmember to the floor is 5-1/2". From the center of the rear bumper crossmember to the floor is 17".

[CFster]

Man I can't wait to get started on mine. What mm brake kit is that from KORE3?

It's the C6 Z06 brakes front and rear. That would be 355mm front, 340mm rear.

[1989GTA]

The belt is NAPA # 25-061010. Never measured it. I'm sure if you call NAPA they can tell you how long it is.

Thank you for the information.

[CFster]

Took some more pics today.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

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https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[Nicks67GTO]

Is there any chance you can go over exactly how you got the 06' GTO seats to mount up on both sides? Did you have to hack on the floor at all? Are they a good fit for you? Do they sit up higher than the stockers? I'm also a good size guy 6'2" 235. 50 coat, 36 waist. I just got a Procar 1000 Rallye mounted my 67' GTO today. It sat very high and was not at all comfortable. I'm really disappointed and the Procar is going back to Summit. Also is that TMI bolstered stocker you had done, a Legenday Auto Interior product? I thought about going that direction as well but seeing your pics makes me think otherwise with them seeming almost over stuffed.

[robbie9999]

do you know where I can get an air filter set up for my Ls3 like you have I m doing a swap in my 66 currently ? Is there not ones available that are placed in the middle ?

[bonecrrusher]

Love the wheels and brakes on this car - that exterior looks great.

[CFster]

do you know where I can get an air filter set up for my Ls3 like you have I m doing a swap in my 66 currently ? Is there not ones available that are placed in the middle ?

I made my own with parts from here -->http://www.intakehoses.com/

I preferred to have my filter pickup the cooler air behind the headlight bucket instead of right in back of the radiator. You can actually stick your hand through the apron into the outside under the car behind that bucket - it's wide open.

[ledfoot]

Awesome car. Read through the whole thread, maybe I missed it but what color is your car? Looks great.

[Pontiacken]

Colin once you finish with the mechanic shop maybe you should become a photographer for a car magazine! Your pictures are great and your Goat is getting sweeter everytime you touch it-Great job!

I do have a tech question for you: Why did you choose a 5" BS on your front wheels as opposed to say a 4.5" BS?

I need to get my wheel selection and purchase done and it seems to be the hardest thing to nail down.

Also, how is the paddle shifter/new steering wheel working out with the newer GTO seats as far as ergonomically and comfortability driving wise?

Thanks-Ken

[robbie9999]

Colin once you finish with the mechanic shop maybe you should become a photographer for a car magazine! Your pictures are great and your Goat is getting sweeter everytime you touch it-Great job!

I do have a tech question for you: Why did you choose a 5" BS on your front wheels as opposed to say a 4.5" BS?

I need to get my wheel selection and purchase done and it seems to be the hardest thing to nail down.

Also, how is the paddle shifter/new steering wheel working out with the newer GTO seats as far as ergonomically and comfortability driving wise?

Thanks-Ken

If this helps .... my project build is 1966 GTO PROJECT HELL BEAST
My issue is with the A-Body car I have the backspacking is front 4.5 back 5.5 I do not like how the fronts wheels sit so far in, I have ordered new wheels with 3.75 backspacing, the video will show the wheels with the 3.75 backspace so it sits more flush with the fender,

Fronts are 245 40 18
Rear 265 35 20




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m0dit...XqoSAK4hal2ubw (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m0ditnk897Y&list=FLC1DK_JJ-XqoSAK4hal2ubw)


What car do you have ? and what year ?

[CFster]

Awesome car. Read through the whole thread, maybe I missed it but what color is your car? Looks great.

Fathom blue.

[CFster]

Colin once you finish with the mechanic shop maybe you should become a photographer for a car magazine! Your pictures are great and your Goat is getting sweeter everytime you touch it-Great job!

I do have a tech question for you: Why did you choose a 5" BS on your front wheels as opposed to say a 4.5" BS?

I need to get my wheel selection and purchase done and it seems to be the hardest thing to nail down.

Also, how is the paddle shifter/new steering wheel working out with the newer GTO seats as far as ergonomically and comfortability driving wise?

Thanks-Ken

Thanks! That wasn't even my good camera.

Yeah wheels are nerve racking. The backspacing number I got from Driverz Inc. Front seem to be ok (though I did have to massage the fender lip), rears needed some "adjustment" too. Had to have the machine shop take some material off the inside mounting face. And it's still ridiculously close. Everybody wants to tuck huge wheels under their rides - problem is when I put four people in the car basically all four rubbed. My RF caught the lip of the wheel well trim and tore a strip of rubber off all the way around the tire (a brand new Potenza RE050). I thought I had the rubbing cured and drove it a week with no problems. Then I pulled into my driveway one day - turned the wheel and hit a bump - SCRAPE.

Paddle shift is the pain in the ass. More of a novelty than anything. I never use it. That's more a fault of the transmission I'm using, not the paddle shifter though.

[robbie9999]

Colin is there a number I can reach you on ? wanted to enquire on your seats, I spoke to TIM at a TMI seats and wanted to ask you some questions I sent my number as well private ...

Cheers
Robbie

[Pontiacken]

Thanks Ken.

Yeah, a 9" dual diaphragm booster with a 1" bore manual master cylinder. I think the application was an early 70s Corvette.

Colin,

I have been so busy I have not had much time to work on the car but I am trying my best to get back to it. I asked you about the brake booster you choose and I have looked for an early 70s Corvette booster from Cardone and it does not come with the mounting bracket and the rod is way to short. Is this what you ran into as well? Did you go to the aftermarket for a bracket and rod extension kit? If not and it was a direct fit you wouldn't happen to have a part number and source for the one you used that you can pass along by chance?

Thanks again for all your help-Ken

[CFster]

Ken, I used one of two brake booster extension rods - I bought two and I don't remember which one I put on the car.

Part #6474SRBDP

and

Part #6474SERBSP

They're both available from Summit.

I'm not sure what you're talking about with the booster? It won't bolt to the firewall?

[CFster]

Colin is there a number I can reach you on ? wanted to enquire on your seats, I spoke to TIM at a TMI seats and wanted to ask you some questions I sent my number as well private ...

Cheers
Robbie

Robbie, try PM'ing me again with the number. It didn't come through. Thanks.

[Pontiacken]

Ken, I used one of two brake booster extension rods - I bought two and I don't remember which one I put on the car.

Part #6474SRBDP

and

Part #6474SERBSP

They're both available from Summit.

I'm not sure what you're talking about with the booster? It won't bolt to the firewall?

Colin, The boosters for a Corvette that I found did not have a mounting bracket and the rod was short. I may have looked up the wrong year application. Do you remember which booster application you used. It looks like a '79 or so Trans Am with 4 wheel disks application may work. I am having a hard time finding one "on the shelf" locally though. I hate ordering things then having to send them back, yuk!

Thanks again-Ken

[CFster]

Ken, I'll see what I can come up with this weekend. I know the booster and master are for an early '70s Vette.

[CFster]

Installed some J-pipes. They help with exhaust drone significantly!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[1989GTA]

What length of J-pipe did you go with? They look to be 2.5" in diameter.

[CFster]

They're actually adjustable length, so you can tune them.

Got them from Solo Performance --> http://solo-performance.com/

[1989GTA]

Thanks for the link just incase I need them for my car.

[wayward]

i just when through your thread again.

I have the front end off my car and have spc uppers installed (not setup up or adjusted). I am wanting to start working on my clutch master and when I set my driver side inner fender in place it seems like I have clearance issues with my upper rear bar on my SPC uppers...

did you have any issues, or do I just have the angle of the dangle wrong since I don't have anything to support the front of the inner fender...

EL

[dsapper]

I can't find anything about the adjustable j-pipes on their site and I need it desperately. Would you mind finding the direct link, or do you need to call? Thank you

[CFster]

i just when through your thread again.

I have the front end off my car and have spc uppers installed (not setup up or adjusted). I am wanting to start working on my clutch master and when I set my driver side inner fender in place it seems like I have clearance issues with my upper rear bar on my SPC uppers...

did you have any issues, or do I just have the angle of the dangle wrong since I don't have anything to support the front of the inner fender...

EL

No problems with clearance here.

[CFster]

I can't find anything about the adjustable j-pipes on their site and I need it desperately. Would you mind finding the direct link, or do you need to call? Thank you

Just call. They can make up J-pipes to fit anything.

[Pontiacken]

Decided to go with a slightly taller tire (45 vs. 40). I think they fill up the wells a little better and made a big difference in ride.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Hey Colin I am finally going to order wheels and had one question....how much tire bulge do you have on the rear? I want to get as close to the inner quarter without rubbing and maybe leave a 1/4" or so for good measure but I really need to know how much tire bulge to expect with a 275/45 tire to ensure I get the backspacing correct.

Thank you again-Ken

[wayward]

I have a huge favor to ask, if you could do I would greatly appreciate.

Working on my front inner fenders and having problems with my spc adjustable and clearance...

I have the Long shaft in the front with the welded tab up front as well...

Could you give my some measurements from you upper adjustments. Say possibly center of ball joint to center of bolt that attached the bracket to the cross shaft...

I'm just looking to get in the ball park and identify if I have done something wrong before I proceed any further.

Eric

[CFster]

Hey Colin I am finally going to order wheels and had one question....how much tire bulge do you have on the rear? I want to get as close to the inner quarter without rubbing and maybe leave a 1/4" or so for good measure but I really need to know how much tire bulge to expect with a 275/45 tire to ensure I get the backspacing correct.

Thank you again-Ken

Not much, but enough that it rubs sometimes - there's no way in hell I could get a 285 in there and not have it rub constantly. I don't know about other people. Mine rubs when there are more than two people in the car going around around corners "briskly". IMO, unless you have a Watts link 1/4" isn't enough clearance. The rear moves side to side quite a bit under even normal driving conditions - and you know what I bet the johnny joints are partly responsible. The factory arms and bushings bind, which is a bad thing in of itself, but the joints allow freer movement...

[CFster]

I have a huge favor to ask, if you could do I would greatly appreciate.

Working on my front inner fenders and having problems with my spc adjustable and clearance...

I have the Long shaft in the front with the welded tab up front as well...

Could you give my some measurements from you upper adjustments. Say possibly center of ball joint to center of bolt that attached the bracket to the cross shaft...

I'm just looking to get in the ball park and identify if I have done something wrong before I proceed any further.

Eric

Sure I can do this, but I won't be near the car until tomorrow or Wednesday.

Have you called Marcus?

[robbie9999]

Not much, but enough that it rubs sometimes - there's no way in hell I could get a 285 in there and not have it rub constantly. I don't know about other people. Mine rubs when there are more than two people in the car going around around corners "briskly". IMO, unless you have a Watts link 1/4" isn't enough clearance. The rear moves side to side quite a bit under even normal driving conditions - and you know what I bet the johnny joints are partly responsible. The factory arms and bushings bind, which is a bad thing in of itself, but the joints allow freer movement...

HI first set up rims I am running 265 /35/20 on back very slight rub / just got 275 /35/20's going to put them on 285 will rub

[rohrt]

Mr CF

I have been studing your build and had a couple of questions. I have a 64 tempest.

You used the autocraft pan and edelbrock mount, same as b-man on his 64 tempest project (Don't recall what mounts he used) but his inner tie rods were hitting the oil pan. I didn't see any discussion or pics if this was a issue with your car. I have seen a few others oil pans that look pretty nice too. Wondering what other pans did you look at before deciding on the auotcraft. Is there a oil pan motor mount combo where you don't have clearence the floor pans as much?

You decided not use these mounts, correct?
http://carshop.carshopinc.com/product_info.php/products_id/110328/CSP2380

Also what was the reason for going with the external pump? How did you tie into the gas tank with the return line. I assume you have no baffeling in the tank? Have you ran into issues with that?

I love the build and it looks like it was well thought out and little expense was spared on the LS conversion.

[CFster]

Mr CF

I have been studing your build and had a couple of questions. I have a 64 tempest.

You used the autocraft pan and edelbrock mount, same as b-man on his 64 tempest project (Don't recall what mounts he used) but his inner tie rods were hitting the oil pan. I didn't see any discussion or pics if this was a issue with your car. I have seen a few others oil pans that look pretty nice too. Wondering what other pans did you look at before deciding on the auotcraft. Is there a oil pan motor mount combo where you don't have clearence the floor pans as much?

You decided not use these mounts, correct?
http://carshop.carshopinc.com/product_info.php/products_id/110328/CSP2380

Also what was the reason for going with the external pump? How did you tie into the gas tank with the return line. I assume you have no baffeling in the tank? Have you ran into issues with that?

I love the build and it looks like it was well thought out and little expense was spared on the LS conversion.

Thanks.

This was a couple years ago, but I think I used the Autocraft pan because it doesn't hang below the crossmember. My tie rods DO hit at full lock - just barely. My intentions were to at some point but a Lee steering box in (they can build a stop into it so that doesn't happen), so this wasn't really a concern for me.

I used regular GM small block frame brackets and Edelbrock mounts. I had to notch the holes in the frame downward slightly.

I have an internal pump, not external. A Walbro in a Tanks Inc "conversion module" with a little tray at the bottom --> http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=84/category_id=61/home_id=-1/mode=prod/prd84.htm . I originally had starvation issues, but installing this pump seems to have cured them.

[rohrt]

Thanks!

[woody80z28]

I'd like to learn more about the J-pipes...that's an interesting setup. I don't have any drone, but a lot of crackle on decel. Would they help eliminate that too?

[66ohc]

Thanks EL.

Fronts are 18x8 5" BS with P245/45r18
Rears are 18x9 5.75" BS with P275/45r18

-CF

I just wanted to say this car is beautiful! Love the setup. I am ready to order wheels and tires for my 1966 Lemans Sprint ohc6. I am going to shorten the rear end after I get wheels to assure fitment. My question is...Are you sure of your rear wheels backspace. They dont look like they have 5.75in. The baby blue car from prodigy that has 19s in rear is running 19x9 with 4.25 bs. Another member on here (quoted below) is running 18x9 with a 5.75bs and his dish on the wheel looks way smaller. I am just trying to get a good baseline before I order wheels. The rear end is out of my car and torn down so I cant measure now. :crying:


75416 75417 75418 75419 75420Here are the final wheel pix! Final stats: front 18X8 Billett Specialties MAG G 5" back space,245/40/18 NITTO MOTIVO tire. Rear 18X9 5.75" back space, 255/45/18. 275/45/18 tires will fit as well. This car has stock wheel wells and rear end. CHEERS!

[Pontiacken]

Hello Colin,

I was wondering what did you finally do for E-Brake cables?
Anymore plans for the Goat? Are going to autocross it?

Thanks as always Ken

[robbie9999]

I just wanted to say this car is beautiful! Love the setup. I am ready to order wheels and tires for my 1966 Lemans Sprint ohc6. I am going to shorten the rear end after I get wheels to assure fitment. My question is...Are you sure of your rear wheels backspace. They dont look like they have 5.75in. The baby blue car from prodigy that has 19s in rear is running 19x9 with 4.25 bs. Another member on here (quoted below) is running 18x9 with a 5.75bs and his dish on the wheel looks way smaller. I am just trying to get a good baseline before I order wheels. The rear end is out of my car and torn down so I cant measure now. :crying:

running 19X8 235/35/19 in front 20x10 275/35/20 in back no rub as yet, the rears give a bit of rash on bumps only … check out my thread

[robbie9999]

Hi I am about to pull the trigger on the pro car seats myself I notice the mock up one you have in the GTO it looks great and seems you have more room, does it sit back more than original with the sliders ? are you selling the one your not using ?

Rob
416 454 9599

[Nicks67GTO]

Hi I am about to pull the trigger on the pro car seats myself I notice the mock up one you have in the GTO it looks great and seems you have more room, does it sit back more than original with the sliders ? are you selling the one your not using ?

Rob
416 454 9599


I tried to install those seats in my 67' GTO and my head hit the headliner because i was sitting on the bolsters, not between them. I think they would sit high even if I could fit comfortably in them. If you're tall, have a wideset ass, are big fella at all or have any friends that you want riding with you that are built like that, I would advise looking at their procar elite seats. Im 6'2" 230-240 50 coat/38 jean and I wasnt even close.

[CFster]

Didn't like the Pro Cars. Replaced them with '06 GTO seats, and while they're more comfortable they sit kind of high. Considering Recaros.

[CFster]

Hello Colin,

I was wondering what did you finally do for E-Brake cables?
Anymore plans for the Goat? Are going to autocross it?

Thanks as always Ken

Haven't worked out e-brake cables yet. Working on other projects at the moment!

[CFster]

I just wanted to say this car is beautiful! Love the setup. I am ready to order wheels and tires for my 1966 Lemans Sprint ohc6. I am going to shorten the rear end after I get wheels to assure fitment. My question is...Are you sure of your rear wheels backspace. They dont look like they have 5.75in. The baby blue car from prodigy that has 19s in rear is running 19x9 with 4.25 bs. Another member on here (quoted below) is running 18x9 with a 5.75bs and his dish on the wheel looks way smaller. I am just trying to get a good baseline before I order wheels. The rear end is out of my car and torn down so I cant measure now. :crying:

Sorry about the delay. Your best bet is to ask a reputable wheel guy on this board. They'll know the right measurements for A-bodies. We changed my rear axle width and wheel backspacing mid-order. What's on my invoice may not be correct, and I haven't had the chance to physically measure them.

[CFster]

I'd like to learn more about the J-pipes...that's an interesting setup. I don't have any drone, but a lot of crackle on decel. Would they help eliminate that too?

They eliminate drone somewhat, but not crackle (in my case). Biggest thing I did to eliminate drone was install Dynomax VT mufflers - they made a HUGE difference.