Please all reply I need help

[chevelle1970]

I have a Vintige air Front Runner LS on my LSX 454. They use Tuff Stuff alternators I have about 5k miles on the car.
The altinator on the car now is #4.
Vintage air has been great about sending me new a new one every time I call there very nice but havent really offered a solution other than replacing altinators as needed.
Vintige air also uses a sigle wire setup

I have twin spal fans pulling about 36 amps, fuel pump, ignition etc' totalling about negitive 4 amps out of the altinator at idle with the head lights on I cruising at about 2300 RPM kills the battery in about 30 minutes. The altinator just dosent put out enough amperage and even if it did I cant get more than about 1000 miles out of one. they just dont live.
At this point I need a better altinator or some kind of a solution or I will have to scrap the Front runner and buy something else.
Please comment if you have any ideas no matter what it is as I said even if it mean I have to buy a new accesory drive I need something reliable.

Oh ya and I hoped to use my 400 amp audio system some day at this point know way that kills the battery even faster.
Thanks
Keith

[H2Ogbodies]

I think you should check to see if you can use a CS style or LS type alternator and scrap the 1-wire altogether-imo that is your problem. I suspect that 1-wire alternator is RPM limited on amperage output and if you are just cruising with a lot of high draw accessories on, you are asking for problems. Or, measure your case diameter and verify the alternators clocking position and go to your local parts store, ask the counterperson for an illustrated alternator catalog and then look for a GM style with the newer style plug in and the same case diameter and clocking positions then swap it out on your car and re-wire the charging system accordingly...that's how I would start.
No matter what anybody says, the 1-wire alts are crap and aren't worth the hassle. They are bad from an electrical design standpoint so nothing else about them makes them worthwhile in my book.

[chevelle1970]

Thanks for the advice I agree with everything you said 100%. When I purchased the system I didn’t investigate the accessories and assumed that it came with an LS 3 wire. I was shocked when I opened the box and found a single wire. I have tried to find an alternator clocked properly with a case size that will fit. There is one other problem most of the OEM stuff has the power lead on the back not the side of the case. The design of the Front Runner brackets doesn’t allow clearance for a lead on the back of the case and or the larger case size of most OEM. Any ideas you have or if you know of anyone who has replaced the single wire and upgraded to something that will fit that I can contact for info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks again for all your help.
Keith

[XLexusTech]

Dibs on the Front Runner if it comes up for sale

[BonzoHansen]

why not take the one you have to a good local shop that rebuild them and have it rebuilt more like an OE setup?

[chevelle1970]

BonzoHanson,
That is one of the ideas on the table I was hoping that someone may have done that and had a specific shop and or product solution in mind. Also I wanted to post to see what other ideas may come up ya just never know there are a lot of innovative people on this sight. I haven’t posted on any threads in years back in the mid 90’s I built a procharged F-body and spent a little time on CamaroZ28.com so I’m a little rusty and don’t have much to contribute at this point I’m just hear pickin everyone else’s brain.
Thanks again
XLexusTech,
You are first in line

[71RS/SS396]

What size wire do you have coming off the alternator? If you don't have a big enough wire this could be what's causing your problem.

[chevelle1970]

Tim,
AKA 71RS/SS396
VA talked me into trying a 140 amp 3 wire Tuff Stuff. Rick at VA said I need to run a ground from the alternator case to the block, I’m going to try that he also said I may need a larger wire from the alternator to the Junction/Starter I think I’m running an 8 gauge I’ll go to a say 4 gauge what do ya think?

Thank you to everyone that replied your thoughts and consideration are much appreciated.
Good luck on all your projects.
Keith

[71RS/SS396]

Tim,
AKA 71RS/SS396
VA talked me into trying a 140 amp 3 wire Tuff Stuff. Rick at VA said I need to run a ground from the alternator case to the block, I’m going to try that he also said I may need a larger wire from the alternator to the Junction/Starter I think I’m running an 8 gauge I’ll go to a say 4 gauge what do ya think?

Thank you to everyone that replied your thoughts and consideration are much appreciated.
Good luck on all your projects.
Keith

You could just run another 8 gauge to the starter/junction and probably accomplish the same thing I've done this in the past and had good results. I would also overkill the wire size for the power feeds to your fan relays. You will reduce the voltage drop by using larger wire which will lower the current usage. I'm basically using the same set-up you currently have with the same accy. and the only time I see low volts is at idle with everything on, as soon as I come off idle the volt gauge goes up past 13V. It certainly won't hurt installing the bigger alt. though.

[TnBlkC230WZ]

Tim,
AKA 71RS/SS396
VA talked me into trying a 140 amp 3 wire Tuff Stuff. Rick at VA said I need to run a ground from the alternator case to the block, I’m going to try that he also said I may need a larger wire from the alternator to the Junction/Starter I think I’m running an 8 gauge I’ll go to a say 4 gauge what do ya think?

Thank you to everyone that replied your thoughts and consideration are much appreciated.
Good luck on all your projects.
Keith

How long is the current charge wire? Wire size is determined by load and length. At 160 amps a four foot 8 gauge wire will have a 1 volt drop on a 12 volt system (slightly more at 14 volts). This one volt drop is within normal ranges and isn't an issue if your sense wire is there to up the voltage. With a one wire alternator, you will never get full voltage unless you are only drawing 25 or 30 amps.

I don't recommend a one wire altenator for street applications either, but if you do run one, you need to up your wire sizes one or two gauge sizes. So if your run is over 2 feet, a 4 gauge cable is needed instead of the 8 gauge needed for the three wire alternator. Under two feet and the 8 gauge should be ok with only a .5 volt drop.

Keep in mind your nominal draw is probably less than 80 amps

[H2Ogbodies]

A often overlooked concern with underhood wire is to make sure it is iso rated for proper heat protection-inferior wire has metal fillers such as tin and aluminum that can not only make it more brittle but makes it not withstand heat as well, so current draw can create more heat with in the wire than with quality iso rated wire designed for automotive use. I use Delphi spools for most of the harnesses and relay kits I build.

[chevelle1970]

Thanks again guys good advice. I will go to a three wire alternator; also I would say the wire running from the alternator around the back of the motor/firewall to the starter junction block is about 4 feet long. Tim I think I will do as you suggested and just add another 8 gauge wire that will save me from having to peel the harness apart.
I bought most of the wire when I was doing the project from summit most of the wire was Painless branded wire hopefully it is a good quality wire?
Thanks again for all the help and suggestions I have printed off this thread and plan to attack this using all the suggestions.
Tim I need to go back and look at the cooling fan wire as well and increase the size.
I used wire that was the same size as the wire that spal had coming out of the fans. In looking at this I did find a connecter that was burned. I changed the connecter and saw a 3 amp load drop.
Thanks for that advice as well.
You all have been a great help I can’t tell you how much I appreciate it. I was ready to swap out my accessory drive now it looks like everything will most likely work out ok.
Ya’ll Rock!!
Keith