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05-23-2005 #1
URGENT: I just CANT get my car to stop! Mushy pedal at the top.
From the day I bought this car the brakes have always sucked bad. I have never owned a car that had brake problems like this. My 1979 truck can lock up all 4 tires like nothing but the camaro is driving me insane with problem.
Specs.
69 Camaro
New stock disk up front. New stock calipers. New stock drum in rear. Wilwood race pads up front. New stock master cylinder. All the lines are new. Wheel cylinders on rear are new. Everything is new----besides the booster.
Here is my exact description of the problem. When I push the pedal the first half of the pedal feels like im pushing on a sponge. Then once it is almost to the floor it finally engages. I believe it even makes an air sound too for the first half.
The brakes dont fade once the pedal engages.
Question: Is my brake booster bad? Is the New master cylinder bad? How can I test the booster?
I bled the brakes over and over again with new 400degree+ fluid this weekend too and still crappy pedal.Adam_______Offical Car Name "ILLUSION"
383 Stroker, Stock cast heads, T-56 tranny, 4.11 gears, 2002 T/A dash, 4th gen interior including seatbelts, power lumbar seats, 18" Budnik Wheels, Hydraboost, QA1 shocks, DC Controller, Power steering conversion, fuel cell, unique exhaust set up........
ILLUSION Website-----------Old Website--------------My Car on Lateral-g.net----------- Need something designed?-AdFabDesign
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05-23-2005 #2dennis68 GuestThis is a BIG part of your problem. Race pads are not designed to stop at all before they reach optimum temperature, a temperature you would have a very difficult time reaching in a street driving environment. Most race pad manufactures make a point of letting the end consumer know this in advance (the instructions).
Originally Posted by CAMAROBOY69
05-23-2005 #3Just ignore the race pads. Thats not the problem. I just installed them on saturday and to be honest they actually improved the brakes.
Adam_______Offical Car Name "ILLUSION"
383 Stroker, Stock cast heads, T-56 tranny, 4.11 gears, 2002 T/A dash, 4th gen interior including seatbelts, power lumbar seats, 18" Budnik Wheels, Hydraboost, QA1 shocks, DC Controller, Power steering conversion, fuel cell, unique exhaust set up........
ILLUSION Website-----------Old Website--------------My Car on Lateral-g.net----------- Need something designed?-AdFabDesign
05-23-2005 #4Adam, check your PM.
Den, I hooked him up with the pads. It's Polymatrix H compound, which starts working at 100*F. All it takes to warm them up is a couple of stops.The first step of becoming a better driver is to attend a track event, time yourself, and realize the fact you really suck.
Signed,
A driver who laps Big Willow at 1:42.6 in a 134hp BMW - and I am still considered mediocre.
05-23-2005 #5
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Have you got a 1 way valve fitted on the vac hose to booster ?
paul67
05-23-2005 #6
Registered User
- Join Date
- Aug 2004
- Location
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How many clicks does the hand brake go before it locks the brakes
paul67
05-23-2005 #7All I have to the booster is 1 big vacuum (actually a fuel line)that hooks to the back of the Holley carb.
I dont have a parking brake but once the brakes engage past the sponge they work great. Its just the first initial push that sucks.
The problem really seems to be somewhere before the brakes themselves. Like booster vacuum. Something around there but im not sure how to check the booster to see if its working properly.Adam_______Offical Car Name "ILLUSION"
383 Stroker, Stock cast heads, T-56 tranny, 4.11 gears, 2002 T/A dash, 4th gen interior including seatbelts, power lumbar seats, 18" Budnik Wheels, Hydraboost, QA1 shocks, DC Controller, Power steering conversion, fuel cell, unique exhaust set up........
ILLUSION Website-----------Old Website--------------My Car on Lateral-g.net----------- Need something designed?-AdFabDesign
05-23-2005 #8



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