oil opinions

[69projectKAOS]

what is a good recommended oil and weight for after break in oil is used? thanks-dom

[ArtosDracon]

Given your weather I don't know that I would try to run anything over 10W-30 in winter, you might be able to get away with 20W-40 in summer. The only main differences you're giong to get between oils are in two categories, the base and the additive package. You will want to make sure you stick to the same type of base between summer and winter oils, as mixing bases(ie wax vs crude vs synthetic) can cause problems, not so much with synthetics, as they can blend with most conventional oils, but mixing conventional bases can cause serious sludge.

The additive packages are whrere the big differences lie, the bases can all run for 5-10K without breaking down any noticeable ammount, the additives are what break down and get used up by 3K usually. The exceptions are the extended interval oils which use more and different additives. I would suggest away from some of the high mileage oils until you can confirm they do not use teflon. It does not work in engines, even according to the original designers and patent holders.

I'm sorry I can't give you more specific answers, but different engines do like different additive packages, but you essentially can't go wrong if you stick to name brand oils and don't just get the super cheap crap, and make sure you're consistant with the type of oil.

Now, if you want to know about filters, I can get VERY specific.

[CHILI442]

Since you have a roller cam, I wouldn't worry much about break in oil. I would just use a good conventional motor oil (I like Valvoline) and 5W-30 is pretty typical these days. I would change the oil after the initial startup/break-in and then beat the crap out of the engine for about 500 miles. Then switch to Mobil One synthetic.

[Nothingface5384]

After the break-in i'd switch to snythetic oil, just for the extra anti wear properties
anything from 5w30 to 10w30 would work well

[Nothingface5384]

oh yea, amsoil or redline would be my choice....and NO FRAM FILTERS...anything but that crappy brand

[CHILI442]

....and NO FRAM FILTERS...anything but that crappy brand

Amen! Those things are junk. I prefer Wix.

[ArtosDracon]

Fram aren't the only guys using cardboard end-caps and thin rubber drainbacks. At least their top of the line filter has a synthetic filter material that's quite good and a silicon anti-drainback valve that's great. Oil pressures below 50psi, which is low for most vehicles, will have no effect on the end-caps.

That being said, I like Ryco the best, Wix and Champion built filters are good, the K&N and Mobil 1 are identical filters and are very well designed, though with only mediocre filter materials and valves.

[Vegas69]

With a solid roller motor, I'd go with Brad Penn 10w30 to start. If you need more hot oil pressure, step it up to 20w50. It's the old Kendall green, made in America, and has the old school additives. My engine builder swears by it and he builds a large number of the PSCA engines and has for a number of years. It's not the cheapest but either is an engine failure.

[Lowend]

I'm from the school of thought that you use a very light weight synthetic oil: 5W30 or 0W20
Here's the thinking:
The Synthetic oils vastly exceed any thermal breakdown properties of the natural base oils the cars were designed to run on.
Most wear occurs on startup before bearings and pressurize
The higher viscosity, the more time it takes to "prime" the bearings.

So - if you run a lightweight oil that will take all of the heat/pressure you can throw at it... you get the best of all worlds

I like Amsoil and Redline

[Vegas69]

You run what the engine wants. Seeing he has an old school small block, I bet his bearing clearances aren't as tight as you may think. Small blocks are also known for less than great oil pressure hot at idle.

On newer factory type engines, I agree with you. Light weight synthetics are the way to go.

[ErikLS2]

Newer factory engine bearing clearances are very precise, to the 0.0001 decimal point and are very tight compared to an old school small block.

I'll second what Todd said, you put in it what the engine was designed for. Too light an oil in a "loose" engine can result in low oil pressure.

[Scarelane]

With a solid roller motor, I'd go with Brad Penn 10w30 to start. If you need more hot oil pressure, step it up to 20w50. It's the old Kendall green, made in America, and has the old school additives. My engine builder swears by it and he builds a large number of the PSCA engines and has for a number of years. It's not the cheapest but either is an engine failure.

I have a 347 stroker in my Fairlane and my builder swears by the Brad Penn 20w50. So does my dyno shop.

[Roadrage David]

I am a Brad Penn dealer overhere in the netherlands. we did some rigures oil analyzing on diferend types of motor sports http://www.americanmuscle.nl/ . from drag raceing /motor racing/ traktor pulling and road racing... The asumption that roller cam engines do not need zddp ore zink aditifs is FALS!!. We have tested 427ci lS7 engines with 700 hp 7000rpm . witch are used in endurance races lasting upto 6 hours. And i can tell you that 65/70% of the ZDDP/Zink hase been used up bij the engines!!! durig these races.

we also found out that the mahle pistons used in these engines have a to short piston squirt, witch wil cause premature wear piston dwel then blowby with the results that the oil gets conteminated and loose there abilety to protect.
These engines last around the 30 to 35 hours!! befor a rebuild is nesersary...
Needless to say we convinced them to try a USA build racing engine with custom pistons.
Coming back to the roller cams these are NOT the only rotating parts that need protection... we have used a 20w50 brad penn racing oil on these engines
in summer time winter time we advice the 15w40 .
Regular street engines wil do fine with 10w40, when ecstreem cold 10w30.....

[John Wright]

The best type/brand of oil?...be careful, that question will conjure up all sorts of heated discussion. People seem to defend their brand of oil at all costs.....LOL.