Epoxy primer advice

[daredvl22]

Ok, I dropped my car off today to get sand/media blasted. I finally got the majority of the metal work done, so I figured it was time to get the car blasted and primed once and for all. When I was talking to the guy that was going to spray the car, he said they can use whatever I want (IE) epoxy, etching primer, etc. They use an industrial type epoxy primer. Not exactly sure what that means, but he assured me it was good, just not as expensive as automotive epoxy primer. He did say I could bring him whatever I wanted, but I had to supply it at my own cost. Should I purchase some DP 90, 40, or whatever (can't remember???).....or should I just trust whatever they use??? BTW there were about 5 cars sitting in his shop that were recently blasted, so I assume they know what they're doing. What are you thoughts???

I guess my question is, does it really matter what epoxy primer they use?

Thanks,

[67zo6Camaro]

Most paint venders will encourage you to use their system because of the chemistry of the products being able to work together. Most paint books will confirm this. However, Im sure some painters will confirm you can mix and match brands some, but that is because they have learned by trial and error. Here comes the key word, are you willing to encounter an error during your final paint and/or after your paint starts to cure? The main idea is to play it safe when it comes to paint chemicals. The reason behind this is that even epoxy primers are bleeding off solvents well after the initial curing, and this bleeding of solvents could cause a paint problem down the road (a few months into the curing process).

Thats my 3 cents
Brett

[The WidowMaker]

call up barry at spi and get him to send you some of his epoxy. he's not far from you, so a call tomorrow could get you epoxy on wednesday. its something like 160 for two sprayable gallons. there are a ton of people on here and other forums that have painted over it with just about everything. if you were looking at the dp90, then you might be spraying the dbc. its what i did on the frame this time and the same as what i did 3 years ago. no problems whatsoever.

[Josue]

Most paint venders will encourage you to use their system because of the chemistry of the products being able to work together. Most paint books will confirm this. However, Im sure some painters will confirm you can mix and match brands some, but that is because they have learned by trial and error. Here comes the key word, or you willing to encounter an error during your final paint and/or after your paint starts to cure? The main idea is to play it safe when it comes to paint chemicals. The reason behind this is that even epoxy primers are bleeding off solvents well after the initial curing, and this bleeding of solvents could cause a paint problem down the road (a few months into the curing process).

Thats my 3 cents
Brett

X2...

This is the very first stage of a paint job, so it's best to make 100% sure that it's done right with a good product, since EVERYTHING else on top of this layer is depending on it! If you like their work, trust them and their judgement/professional opinion, and they stand by their work/product, then they seem like a decent option.

I went with DP90 myself. I was unhappy about the $250/gal price tag, and they tried selling me the cheaper (by half) OMNI equivalent, but I wanted that peace of mind with DP90...

[CudaSRT8]

Most paint venders will encourage you to use their system because of the chemistry of the products being able to work together. Most paint books will confirm this. However, Im sure some painters will confirm you can mix and match brands some, but that is because they have learned by trial and error. Here comes the key word, or you willing to encounter an error during your final paint and/or after your paint starts to cure? The main idea is to play it safe when it comes to paint chemicals. The reason behind this is that even epoxy primers are bleeding off solvents well after the initial curing, and this bleeding of solvents could cause a paint problem down the road (a few months into the curing process).

Thats my 3 cents
Brett

I'm a long time, on again, off again professional painter and I whole heartedly agree with Brett. Go with a good automotive epoxy (I prefer PPG's DP series) and stick with a "matched" system. It is true you can mix and match, but knowing what will work together takes a lot of trial and error, something you don't want to fool with on this one particular car you're building. I for sure would not go with the industrial stuff the blaster uses. He's NOT a painter and does not know how to get the final finish you are after. He blasts all kinds of parts, equipment, etc besides car bodies and the cheaper industrial stuff usually won't matter on some old, used piece of equipment. It may really cause a problem with your nice project car...

[daredvl22]

Thanks for the feedback guys. I was leaning towards bringing him my own primer just to make sure. I'd rather spend a little more now, than a whole lot later trying to fix it!

[ProdigyCustoms]

The PPG Shop Line 377 is VERY close to DP90, it might be DP 90 in a different can. A lot less money. We have used it on some of our quicky jobs. On our high end paint jobs we use all Glasurit even though the 377 is most likley fine.

[rusty428cj]

I have used SPI epoxy on all my projects for the last 5 years with no problems. www.southernpolyurethanes.com (http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com)

[daredvl22]

Has anyone used the Sherwin Wlliams E2 series epoxy primer? I've heard good things, but have no experience with their stuff.