Nitrous, which kits and how much to run?

[DartorDemon]

The car i want to run nitrous on is a 73' duster with a carburated 360. I'm not sure whether i should go wet or dry. I've always heard that wet is safer/makes more power with fuel injected engines, but is that the same while running a carb?

[kmcanally]

With a carb you have to run a wet nitrous system since there is no other mechanism to add fuel when the nitrous is engaged. The nitrous oxide itself does not increase power...it is the extra fuel that is added at the same time that makes the power. The nitrous just provides the oxygen needed in order to burn the extra fuel at the proper air/fuel ratio that will increase horsepower. If you add only nitrous the motor would lean out, make less power, and things start to melt real fast. If you add only fuel the motor would be a fat bitch and make no power. Plus all carb plate type systems will be a wet style system. In a dry system used on a fuel injected car the extra fuel is added through the existing injectors when the nitrous is engaged. In this case there is an electrical output on the nitrous system that tells the EFI controller that the nitrous is turned on.

I run a ZEX perimeter plate system on my carbed Mustang. And to make it as safe as possible, and to allow me to run a bigger "shot", I installed a 1 gal dedicated fuel system just for the nitrous that I run 105 unleaded race gas in (unleaded because I also have a wide band O2 sensor that would fail if I ran leaded race gas). This dedicated system has its only electric pump, filters, and regulator. This pump come on when the nitrous system is armed. I also run a fuel pressure switch that opens the ground circuit to the solenoids whenever the fuel pressure drops below 6 psi. This saves the engine when the 1 gal cell runs dry. I also have an indicator light in the car so I know when the fuel pressure is above 6 psi. I also use a wide open throttle switch mounted to the carb to engage the nitrous only during full throttle.

To further enhance my system I also have a purge solenoid that will ensure that there is nitrous gas at the solenoid instead of vapor. This will prevent a temporary rich condition when the nitrous is first engaged.

And for convenience when somewhen pulls up next to me (if you know what I mean) I also have remote bottle opener.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/01/IMG_2695-1.jpg
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https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/04/0701phr_10_z1968_ford_mustang-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/IMG_0197-1.jpg

[DartorDemon]

Wow, that's one hell of a system.

Say I did a simple wet system. Would that work with a mechanical fuel pump or do i need to convert to an electric pump?

[67 ls1 vert]

You can use a mech pump if it works good. I have done it many times. I've sprayed 200 with stock fuel system with a carb plate. I like the NX stuff, but they all seem to be good kits. You run in to problems when you don't set up the proper jetting for your combo. Make sure you use an 02 or get it tuned. You must have your AFR right or else you'll lean it out and melt things like Kmcanally said.

It's like a drug, you'll get hooked once you start using it. Your car will feel like a pig with out it. lol :)

[wmhjr]

I run a ZEX perimeter plate system on my carbed Mustang. And to make it as safe as possible, and to allow me to run a bigger "shot", I installed a 1 gal dedicated fuel system just for the nitrous that I run 105 unleaded race gas in (unleaded because I also have a wide band O2 sensor that would fail if I ran leaded race gas). This dedicated system has its only electric pump, filters, and regulator. This pump come on when the nitrous system is armed. I also run a fuel pressure switch that opens the ground circuit to the solenoids whenever the fuel pressure drops below 6 psi. This saves the engine when the 1 gal cell runs dry. I also have an indicator light in the car so I know when the fuel pressure is above 6 psi. I also use a wide open throttle switch mounted to the carb to engage the nitrous only during full throttle.


That's a pretty cool system. A question occurs to me. So when you "arm" the nitrous system, the fuel system switches over from the default electric fuel pumps and fuel cell. I'm assuming then that you'd need to run a bit before actually hitting the nitrous? Otherwise all the fuel in your bowls is still from your default fuel system but nitrous would be injected through the plate, right?

Like I said, nice work.

[kmcanally]

Thanks...the dedicated NOS fuel system only provides the 105 to the fuel solenoid. It is completely separate from the system that feeds the carb. A carb plate NOS system injects both nitrous and fuel through the plate.



That's a pretty cool system. A question occurs to me. So when you "arm" the nitrous system, the fuel system switches over from the default electric fuel pumps and fuel cell. I'm assuming then that you'd need to run a bit before actually hitting the nitrous? Otherwise all the fuel in your bowls is still from your default fuel system but nitrous would be injected through the plate, right?

Like I said, nice work.

[wmhjr]

Thanks...the dedicated NOS fuel system only provides the 105 to the fuel solenoid. It is completely separate from the system that feeds the carb. A carb plate NOS system injects both nitrous and fuel through the plate.

Gotcha. That makes perfect sense. Thanks for the explanation. And again, really nice attention to detail in designing the system. As evidenced by my experiences yesterday, I can't even get the power I have to the ground but I'm filing this away for future possibilities.

[H2Ogbodies]

On a system I put together, I used the Mallory Digital 6 box which has among other things a high speed retard output with adjustable timing controls for running big amounts of nitrous. On my system, i run two electric pumps-one for the engine, one for the fuel solenoids....each running through its own regulator. The secondary pump is relay triggered via a master arm switch, which also arms the nitrous button-once hit, the fuel and nitrous solenoids fire via relays. The high speed timing retard only needs to see a 12V signal so that lead is soldered inline with the wires for the solenoids. I would suggest a secondary fuel pump if using over 300 shot because of the additional fuel requirement. In my case, I run 7 psi on motor and 3.5 psi more for a 350 shot through a Titan 750 plate system.

[TonyBolton]

While I don't have a carb, i've had great luck and problem free operation from these guys:

http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodList.asp?idCategory=46

Good prices, good people.

http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=192