1984 Monte SC - Bringing Bertha Back

[monteboy84]

Hi all, another young gun here, I live in Elk River, MN, and I'm 23 years old. I've been lurking, reading, posting a little bit here, but haven't had my project car out to work on in some time. This weekend began my journey, so here goes...

I finally pulled my 1984 Monte Carlo out of storage, where it had lived for 5 years while I went to college and started my adult life. I feel bad for neglecting it that long, but the reality is I couldn't afford to do anything with it, and it would have been worse off had I been driving it for that period of time. I bought this car at 15 years old and did what I could afford to do while in high school, then parked it when I moved away to college. But, I'm now a home-owner with my garage almost ready for the car, and can afford to do things right, so this winter begins the re-birth of Bertha. When I had it in high school, I couldn't afford to do it up PT style, so like a genius I just sky-jacked the back end with station wagon springs, and put some fat 15x10's out back with 15x7's in front. As you can imagine, it's a pretty scary ride, stupid kids.....

I don't remember why I named it Bertha, but it was chosen during a night out with friends over a few brews, so who knows how that came about.... :lol:

I apologize for not posting pictures just yet, I will tonight. I have pictures, but they're on my camera and I can't upload them until I'm back to my house on my own computer. Until then, here are the current specs, and I'll lay out a bit of what my plans/goals are for the winter.

Current -
1984 Chevy Monte Carlo SC - Non-SS car, but came with a 5.0 V8 and a bucket/console interior, with a vinyl top. It's pretty unique, I love the combination but it was a horrid-driving car from the factory. Came from Missouri, so rust is pretty minimal, frame and doors are fantastic. I have absolutely no intentions on making an SS conversion, though I do plan to clean-up the non-SS nose a bit.
- 5.7L Vortec - Stock cam, stock heads, junkyard motor. Edelbrock RPM Air-Gap intake with Demon 650 carb, stock exhaust manifolds from the 1978 350 I previously had in it. Runs great and makes good power on the cheap with the original cam.
- Unlimited Products Fiberglass hood with 2-1/2" cowl - Fits like garbage but looks pretty good, was all I could afford when I repainted the car in high school.
- Vinyl top removed, trim studs smoothed
- Chrome rocker trim removed, trim studs smoothed
- Fender antenna removed - hole glassed and smoothed
- Front fender marker lights removed, holes glassed and smoothed
- Hood ornament (actually on header panel) removed and hole smoothed
- Dual exhaust - 2" by a local muffler shop with glasspacks, it's junk now, so it will be replaced
- New paint - I spent a lot of time on this a year after I got the car, it's Black with Hugger Orange rally stripes, done in Dupont Chromabase and Chromaclear, still holding up great, though it needs some attention in problem areas due to bodywork issues.

Plans -
- SC&C Stage II Plus kit for the front end
- Eibach Springs
- Bilstein shocks
- F-Body sway bar front, sway bar in rear if needed (have these)
- Moser 28-spline axles with a more current F-Body 7-5/8 Posi center
- S-10 Blazer spindles with unitized hub bearings (have all of this)
- C5 Corvette Brakes all around, fronts on Kore3 brackets (have all of this) Braided SS hoses as well
- BMW 540i Type 37 wheels (17x8, 5x120) on custom billet dual-hubcentric adapters from http://www.motorsport-tech.com/ (have all of this)
- New exhaust including headers and 3" exhaust with X-Pipe, Flowmaster mufflers most likely
- Electric Cooling fans on thermostat and toggle switch, as it has a clutch fan currently
- Spohn Del-Sphere Trailing Arms
- Spohn LCA's (possibly, depends on budget)
- New tie rods, drag link, etc, basically all new steering components to tighten up the front end
- New gauges - Not sure exactly what I'll do here but I'll probably end up with the Tach and Speedo in original locations with oil pressure, and the remaining gauges in a pillar pod.
- New hood (possibly) as part of touching up the bodywork where it's needed. It's not a show-car paintjob, but it looks pretty good, better than most people would know to critique.
- Spitzkraft Black HID conversion - Spendy, but huge for driveability, the stock headlights on these things are horrid.

That pretty much sums it up, I'll add the starting pictures to show it's current condition tonight, and cover anything I missed in this intro post once I've re-read it again and reviewed the pictures. I'm on a limited budget, but I'm having a good time with it, making the car into what I wanted when I bought it. To me, it's a lot of fun doing it on a tight budget, because I've spent so much time planning and sourcing every part of the build, that the end product can't help but to be a part of me. That being said, one of the reasons I want to go through this project now, is to prepare for a 1967-68 Camaro build on a more-longterm basis.

Thanks for reading, I hope you all enjoy my build,

Matt

Photochopped Stance, though it still has more rake in it than what I'm planning. Will have the front end a smidge higher than this.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/chop-1.jpg

[instro84]

welcome back and nice build you gonna have there mister. show us some teaser pics you know how visual we are.

[monteboy84]

Pictures, captions to come.

Here's the car, fresh into the shop. I had the grungy S-10 wheels on it because I sold my American Racing wheels in college to keep me from leaving it hillbilly-style ;)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0167-1.jpg

Much better without the flash on.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0168-1.jpg

VERY Dirty, we'll worry about that later.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0169-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0170-1.jpg

Interior shot, dash is apart to sort some wiring for the digital Speedo and Autometer Tach, had some issues with them when it was parked.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0171-1.jpg

Bad picture, but you can see my flat black paint is flaking from the taillight trim, should have sanded it better before. Will media blast it this time with Al Oxide.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0172-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0173-1.jpg

Trunk is VERY solid, pardon the rusty exhaust...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0174-1.jpg

Underside of deck lid, stickers left intact from factory when I painted it.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0175-1.jpg

A little attention is needed here, the filler must not have been sealed good enough, and it's cracking a bit.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0176-1.jpg

I used plastic molding when the vinyl top was removed as the studs weren't there for non-vinyl window trim.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0177-1.jpg

Yummy. Ugliest wheels ever made. Maybe not quite, but I couldn't get them off of the car fast enough.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0178-1.jpg

Crusty. Check out the tiny sway bar.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0179-1.jpg

Shifter cable replaced before storage, but need to find a new retainer clip for it, shifter works terrible currently.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0180-1.jpg

Station Wagon springs and the rusty rearend cover. This could all use a good cleaning and coat of paint, winter project.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0181-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0182-1.jpg

Stock fuel tank, still solid and clean. Will likely replace straps and give it a quick coat of paint to clean up the look.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0183-1.jpg

Spare tire well. Solid, not mangled, somewhat tempted to leave it alone if a spare to clear the Vette brakes will fit in it.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0184-1.jpg

New used parts. Corvette calipers, brake pads, S-10 spindle, wheel adapters, F-body swaybar with frame stiffener. Spare BMW wheel.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0185-1.jpg

Couple of my new used wheels. Still not sure what color these will be, but they're a little beat up, so they'll get powdercoated regardless.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0186-1.jpg

Nice, check out the dirt/mud build-up on the upper A-arm. Surely left from some juvenile trip down a field-road with a girlfriend at the time.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0187-1.jpg

A better view, nasty.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0188-1.jpg

[monteboy84]

First fit of one of the new wheels, great feeling, and the backspacing worked out perfect, despite ordering the adaptors based only on my memory of how the old wheels fit.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0189-1.jpg

Great fit, tires are scabs I bought for checking clearances and rolling it around on, they still have some life in them so when it's done they'll remain on for shaking it down.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0190-1.jpg

The engine (sans air cleaner) before cleanup and new plug wires.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0191-1.jpg

Stance is horrible, but the wheels look good.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0192-1.jpg

Check out the nasty underside of this hood. The extra glass near the hinges was my doing, but you can see why I'm unhappy with the rest of it. Even for a race-only hood it's pretty shoddy.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0193-1.jpg

Another view of motor, air cleaner on and plug wires replaced, but they fit like garbage so they'll get swapped again.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0194-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0195-1.jpg

Backspacing is perfect, I think I can fit another inch of wheel in back without rubbing the frame.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0196-1.jpg

The next few pics are of an S-10 spindle with C5 brakes installed. The adaptor is from Kore3, and it fit perfectly, couldn't have asked for a better design, all the bolts are the perfect length too so I'm pleased as can be. These aren't going on the car until I get my new ball joints, springs, and shocks, so they'll all go in at the same time.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0197-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0198-1.jpg

I'll keep the speed sensor intact, to feed the digital speedometer without having to tie into the trans speed sensor. It will also allow me to run a racing 4-speed manual without a speed sensor if I choose to go that route. It also means gearing doesn't affect the speedometer calibration, which is pretty cool.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0199-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0200-1.jpg

My brother's 1981 Firebird. Was sitting next to mine in storage. Needs some work too but he's basically getting it on the road and driveable before he really decides what he's going to do on it. Same drivetrain as mine at the moment.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0201-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0202-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0203-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0204-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0205-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0206-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0207-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0208-1.jpg

Getting a bath, much better!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0209-1.jpg

Dried off, better yet.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0210-1.jpg

[monteboy84]

welcome back and nice build you gonna have there mister. show us some teaser pics you know how visual we are.


Is that enough pics to tease ya? ;)

These cover one night and the next morning's worth of work, from getting it into the shop from storage, slapping the new wheels on to check fit, and giving it a good bath before I get started.

-matt

[monteboy84]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0211-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0212-1.jpg

Skull lock knobs, very classy. Some of the things I did back then still confuse me...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0213-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0214-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0215-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0216-1.jpg

All clean outside, getting parked until next weekend.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0217-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0218-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0219-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0220-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0221-1.jpg

Rust in the corner of the driver's side door. Will be an easy fix, but basically it was caused by my poor skills in welding a hole shut from the factory chrome trim.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0222-1.jpg

Driver's quarter, looks good.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/100_0223-1.jpg

[craigs73]

looks alot better cleaned......lol. looks like a whole new car. i like the wheels i think you may need to lower a bit tho

[monteboy84]

looks alot better cleaned......lol. looks like a whole new car. i like the wheels i think you may need to lower a bit tho

Lowering is definitely on the list, looks like one of those damn donks right now ;)

Basically all I'm doing at the moment is prepping it to bring it to my garage for the winter. The shop shown is my folks' place and its about 70 miles North of me, so a bit hard to get up there to work on it all the time.

-matt

[CruizinKev]

wow nice project! good to see another monte carlo lover over here! good luck with her!!! :cheers: :twothumbs

[Small Block LSX]

Looks like you have a good starting point! I have my 1987 going and am just working on other things at the moment.

I had a cancer scare and the bills piled in. Pay off that crap and then I can focus on the car more. Will be easier to work on the car in the winter to cure the boredom.

Nice to see another MC from MN!

[ArtosDracon]

Wow, bertha was a dirty, dirty girl. Looks good though, and I do rather like the wheels, hrm...

[montessaj]

This Monte is sick. I'm glad you decided to keep the SC front end on it. The car is going to be sick. Whats the second red bar with the flat pieces on it next to the sway bar in your pics?

[monteboy84]

* duplicate post

[monteboy84]

This Monte is sick. I'm glad you decided to keep the SC front end on it. The car is going to be sick. Whats the second red bar with the flat pieces on it next to the sway bar in your pics?

Thanks bud, I'm really excited to finally get underway with it! I've been mentally building this for some time, despite the car being stuck in a dirt-floor prison. Taking tools to it is almost more than I can take. I've spent the last couple years working on a 69 Corvette Vintage Racer, several rare Devin roadsters, a one-off Kellison, and numerous Asphalt Super Late Models, but this one trumps them all . . . because it's mine.

As for that red bar, I don't know the technical name for it, but basically it's a frame horn stiffener that bolts in with the sway bar bushings. I believe it came on the F-body from the factory, and it seems to line up on my car, so I'm sure I'll run it, as well as some form of triangulated stiffeners like what the factory used on a number of cars.

Thanks again guys, can't wait to see your projects done as well, they've helped me keep my sanity in not working on my own project.

-matt

[monteboy84]

* duplicate post

[monteboy84]

* duplicate post

[monteboy84]

* duplicate post

[monteboy84]

* duplicate post

Sorry for all these, I had a computer issue this morning and it went crazy when I hit 'Post'. If a mod could delete these extra posts it'd be much appreciated.

Thanks!

-matt

[youngdeezy]

nice monte man i have a gbody as well. at the moment no build thread here but hit up the link in my cig to see my cutlass if you want

[Samckitt]

Looks good. Are you planning on picking apples with it? Lower it some. LOL

[monteboy84]

Looks good. Are you planning on picking apples with it? Lower it some. LOL

You mean about 6 inches in the rear and 3 in the front? Yeah, yeah, it's coming :smoke:

I'd have done it already but still deciding on springs.

-matt

[Samckitt]

LOL I figured it was coming. That would probably get it pretty low.

[bonecrrusher]

Lookin good!

[monteboy84]

A little change in plans, I've bought a set of Afco Aluminum bodied shocks and coilover kits for the car. I got a great deal on them used, so I'll use them to mock up and get the car driving, then switch out to Penske's or Ohlins when my funds allow it. I'll post pics of the new shocks tonight, the plan is to remove the factory front spring buckets in front and rebrace with clearance for the coilovers, I'll have to build shock hoops and a crossbrace for them as well. In the rear I should be able to run the coilovers in stock shock position with some added bracing on the mounts.

Pics of the shocks tonight, more car pics this weekend.

-matt

[Tony_SS]

I like it.. please don't put an SS nose on there. :)

[monteboy84]

I like it.. please don't put an SS nose on there. :)

I promise :usa: Seems like nobody leaves the SC nose on, but I like the look.

-matt

[JAWSS]

Nice SC. Good job so far not swapping the nose. Yes everyone swaps that nose for some reason...

[monteboy84]

NOTE: I've got to come back in and finish captioning these pictures when I get a minute. They're fairly self-explanatory but I need to caption them still to clarify some things.

Okay, time for an update on my budget beater. Since I last posted, I decided to go with LS1 rear brakes for simplicity in incorporating the parking brake, since the Vette hub offset is really not right for use with the 10-bolt rear. The good thing is that I'm giving up nothing, the rear rotor specs are identical between the LS1 and C5 rotors, in terms of diameter and face width. I'll even be using my C5 calipers and pads on the LS1 abutments. Anywho, I picked up an entire LS1 Camaro as a donor for $400, and it happened to have an SLP 4.10 Torsen posi differential kit installed ($725 new). The following few pics show the pieces as they were when I picked it up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/100_03151-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/100_03161-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/100_03171-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/100_03181-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/100_03191-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/100_0320-1.jpg

This shows the C5 calipers alongside the LS1 calipers and abutments, the calipers are virtually identical size-wise.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/100_03211-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/100_03221-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/100_0323-1.jpg
Here's the car on the hoist with the rear springs and shocks removed. I've used adjustable stands under the axle to mock up my desired rear ride height.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/100_0324-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/100_03251-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/100_03261-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/100_03271-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/100_03281-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/100_03291-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/100_03301-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/100_03311-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/100_03321-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/100_03331-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/100_03341-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/100_03351-1.jpg

-matt

[monteboy84]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/100_03371-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/100_03381-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/100_03391-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/100_03401-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/100_03411-1.jpg
You'll notice that the nuts aren't hanging on to many threads, but the bolts are removable so I have longer bolts on order, as well as lock nuts.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/100_03431-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/100_03441-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/100_03451-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/100_03461-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/100_03471-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/100_03481-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/100_03491-1.jpg

-matt

[SicMonte]

is that lower mount gonna be strong enough?

[monteboy84]

Absolutely, but I'm still adding one gusset from the bolt tube to the trailing arm mount just in case. The new bolts will be Grade 8 and the tube is chromoly that's a close clearance fit to the bolt. The welds all had excellent penetration to clean steel, and the long weld on the brackets I made will be welded on the back-side when I have the trailing arms out for replacement. The only place of any concern to me is where the bolt tube extends 1-1/4" beyond the bracket it goes through, but that will be gusseted for peace of mind.

-matt

ETA: The main reason I'm not too concerned is that we use lighter coilover mounts than this on our race car an have never seen an issue with them, even with a 500lb spring in the RR at certain tracks.

[SicMonte]

where is it attached up top? CAn you put up some pics of that?

[monteboy84]

where is it attached up top? CAn you put up some pics of that?

I just made some makeshift crossbars to get it sitting on them, my Afco tiebar kits will be here today for a better quality install. I'll probably make some 1/4" stiffener plates for the upper mounts as well, since they were only designed for shocks originally.

-matt

ETA:
This is the kit I'll be getting, the 2.625" version has slots to accommodate the mount holes on these cars.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/AFCO-GM-Shock-Mount-Tie-Bar-Kits,43286.html

[craigs73]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/100_03351-1.jpg

-matt

glad to see more progress matt i think i would box in from that mount down to the bolt with some plate just for extra bracing. never can have to much.....but the car is looking great i have got a spot for g-bodys as well

[monteboy84]

glad to see more progress matt i think i would box in from that mount down to the bolt with some plate just for extra bracing. never can have to much...

Yup, that's the plan. Thanks!

-matt

[craigs73]

hey thats what were here for sounds like you already had that planned before i showed up lol

[monteboy84]

Just ordered my Stage II Plus kit from Savitske. I can't say enough about Marcus and his business, very nice guy and his knowledge of these cars and suspensions in general just blows me away.

Plans for the weekend include working on the interior a bit, I got a new windshield from Safelite so I may try to get that installed, and I got a new housing for the gauge cluster as my original one has a bunch of broken tabs and is just a mess in general. Other than that, I got my Afco tie-bar kits for my rear shocks, as well as longer bolts and lock nuts for the bottom of the rear shocks, so that will be all buttoned up when I get those in.

Thanks for looking, sorry for not having new pics yet,

-matt

[Tony_SS]

any updates?

[monteboy84]

any updates?

Actually yeah, quite a few! I got my new windshield installed, LS1 rear disc conversion done, Savitske Stage II Plus kit installed in the front end, and a few other little things. Upholstery man called to say my drivers seat is done being repaired so I can pick that up this weekend.

I've got pics of all of this, just haven't gotten around to uploading them so I'll do it tonight when I get home.

Thanks for asking, love your car!

-matt

[SickSpeedMonte]

I don't like that cantilevered mount either, no offense. Just the moment created on the tube and the fact that the bolt is in single shear instead of double shear and a little more moment than it needs to be under. Could you chop up the shock mount and place the coilover a little more outboard? Then you could use the shock mount to extend new mounting locations down on both sides of the lower coilover strut bushing.

It could be fine for all I know, I guess if you make anything beefy enough it will work. That's just not something you want failing after you hit a pothole.

I saw that you mentioned going to electric fans. I don't know if you are using the ramchargers (which go low with one of the two wires hot and high speed with both hot). If you are using a setup like that, here is the wiring diagram that I am using on my Monte.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/FanWiringDiagram3PoleAndAC1-1.jpg

Just got the toggle switch wired up yesterday and it works great. 3 position switch allows you to toggle high, low, or off on a single switch.

[monteboy84]

I've changed it slightly since these pictures, but basically what I did is get a Grade 8 socket head bolt the right length and run it the opposite direction of the bolts in the pictures, so the shear force is on the full diameter of the bolt, rather than on the minor diameter of the threads as it is in the pictures. I've got pictures of that which I still need to upload, I meant to get them on last night but got side-tracked with some things.

I know it's not ideal, and I plan to change it eventually, but not until I get some shorter shocks for it and complete my new rear suspension design. I've run similar mount arrangements on far more abusive applications with good results in the past.

-matt

[monteboy84]

Pictures as promised:

The front end obviously hasn't been lowered here, this is on stock springs up front at this point.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0353-1.jpg
New windshield from Safelite, the price was very reasonable and it's a nice quality piece. I installed it myself due to the restoration needed in the mounting flange area. Took a good bit of wire wheeling and naval jelly before primer and paint, but it came out pretty good. Windshield molding is obviously still off.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0354-1.jpg
Sealed up some failed seam sealer with windshield urethane temporarily.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0355-1.jpg
Much better back here now.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0356-1.jpg
Front end is still jacked.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0357-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0358-1.jpg
Naaasty. Swaybar bolt predictably snapped right off.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0359-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0360-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0361-1.jpg
Somehow I missed getting pictures of installing the Savitske front end kit, so I'll have to get pictures later.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0362-1.jpg
Thi begins my LS1 rear disc conversion, though I haven't rigged up the parking brake cables yet, so these pictures merely cover the bracket and caliper installation.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0363-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0364-1.jpg
Yuck, good riddance.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0365-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0366-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0367-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0369-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0370-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0371-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0372-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0373-1.jpg
Hacking off the upper part of the housing flange, I ended up pretty close to where the radius cut comes to a point on the flange.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0374-1.jpg

-matt

[monteboy84]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0375-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0376-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0377-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0378-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0379-1.jpg
All cut, drilled and ready for assembly.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0380-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0381-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0382-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0383-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0384-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0385-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0386-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0387-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0388-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0389-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0390-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0392-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0393-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0394-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0395-1.jpg
This shows my new shock bolt pretty well, still haven't gusseted the tubes though as the car hasn't been on the road yet.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0396-1.jpg


-matt

[monteboy84]

Ls1 rears all buttoned up, using C5 calipers.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0397-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0398-1.jpg

-matt

[evostilo]

Nice work looks like its coming along real good! Ever think of painting your wheels black?

[monteboy84]

Thanks stilo! Black has definitely crossed my mind, but some days I think gunmetal would look better, or bronze, and I've even considered white :hmm: I've basically decided to get it on the road first-thing and then try to decide, might put it up to a vote here and see what people think, I am terribly indecisive on things like that.

Though, the brakes will be done in Tungsten Gray Cerakote, which may make black the new leader for the wheels...

-matt

[Tony_SS]

What are you using for the master, booster and prop valve? stock setup?

[monteboy84]

What are you using for the master, booster and prop valve? stock setup?

Yeah it's all stock stuff currently, it has a pretty nice aluminum master that looks fairly modern so I've decided to leave it. I either have to gut the prop valve and add an adjustable one, or get an SSBC adjustable to bolt in place of my stocker, but that can wait until it's ready for the road. They work fine for rolling in and out of the shop but I'm sure they'll be wrong for street use.

-matt

ETA: I ordered FlexKore custom brake hoses from Kore3 for this, they really made the install a breeze and the price is hard to beat, comparable to any other set of braided lines out there. They also saved me from having to cut and re-flare the brake lines on my axle, which you'd have to do if you used the LS1 brake hoses.

[SickSpeedMonte]

Nice work, looking good!

Are those brakes going to push your wheels out too much?

[monteboy84]

Nice work, looking good!

Are those brakes going to push your wheels out too much?

Thanks! Nope, wheels are in nearly the same place as before, the rotor thickness on the hub flange is maybe .060" more than my drums were? The adapter you see there is a 1.5" thick hubcentric piece to fit the Bimmer wheels.

-matt

ETA: The wheels are out pretty far, but still tucked enough where I think a lip roller will keep me from ever rubbing, I spec'd the adapters to where I can try 17x9 wheels of the same design without notching the frame.

[85GPLEf41]

Thanks for posting pics of the rear brakes! I am pretty much going to be doin the same brake upgrade as you just on a 8.5 rearend instead though I planned on using my 7.5 till I found the 8.5 . Sweet build up! Do the kore3 lines hang too low?

[BulldawgMusclecars]

Cool setup on the rear...its similar to what I did on Grocery Getter. One thing you might want to consider, though, is upgrading all the wheel studs (in the hubs as well as the rear axles) to ARP ,and Loc-Tite the nuts. The stock type studs have a tendency to stretch, and when they do, the nuts loosen. ARPs won't have this problem.

[monteboy84]

The early rear brake pics have too long of lines on them, some bonehead installed the front lines on the rear ;) if you look at the later pics they're tucked up a bit nicer, and if you want you can spec shorter lines when ordering from Kore3. I believe they are made to order, but the delivery time is still nice and quick.

Thanks!

-matt

[monteboy84]

Cool setup on the rear...its similar to what I did on Grocery Getter. One thing you might want to consider, though, is upgrading all the wheel studs (in the hubs as well as the rear axles) to ARP ,and Loc-Tite the nuts. The stock type studs have a tendency to stretch, and when they do, the nuts loosen. ARPs won't have this problem.

Thanks for the advice, makes sense, I'll measure these up and get some ARP's on an upcoming order. The last thing I need is a wheel coming off :6gears:

-matt

[Tony_SS]

Yeah it's all stock stuff currently, it has a pretty nice aluminum master that looks fairly modern so I've decided to leave it. I either have to gut the prop valve and add an adjustable one, or get an SSBC adjustable to bolt in place of my stocker, but that can wait until it's ready for the road. They work fine for rolling in and out of the shop but I'm sure they'll be wrong for street use.

-matt

ETA: I ordered FlexKore custom brake hoses from Kore3 for this, they really made the install a breeze and the price is hard to beat, comparable to any other set of braided lines out there. They also saved me from having to cut and re-flare the brake lines on my axle, which you'd have to do if you used the LS1 brake hoses.

That's what I'm wondering about.. I'm doing a rear disc kit and am wondering if the stock prop valve will be ok, or if I'll have to change it...

[monteboy84]

I drove it on the road this weekend with the stock prop. valve, and the brakes are amazingly good, it barely takes any pedal to have way more brake than I'll ever use. I figured that they'd be horrendous but it seems to be working both the fronts and rears pretty well according to how the rotors are bedding in. The fronts are producing a fair amount more dust than the rears, but the fronts are Carbotech pads and the rears are Hawk HPS, so I'm sure that has something to do with it, and may explain why both ends are working.

I still plan to change the prop valve, but I haven't seen anything adverse from the stock one yet, YMMV

-matt

[monteboy84]

Okay, more pictures. Had a busy weekend, I got the swaybar mounted up, aligned the front end, slapped some temporary exhaust on it, and gave it a shakedown run, which I enjoyed immensely.

For starters, my swaybar install. I bought endlinks for an '88 Trans Am, since they're a touch shorter than the stock G-body pieces I had. Unfortunately, when I tried to tighten the frame bushings, the threads pulled out, which they're known to do. So, my solution? Drill the threaded holes oversize to snugly fit a 3/8" hex flange nut. Grind the welds flush and enjoy.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0418-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0419-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0420-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0421-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0425-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0427-1.jpg
All bolted up after grinding the welds flush to the nuts.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0428-1.jpg
Endlinks in
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0429-1.jpg
Notice how close the bar is to the tie rod adjuster, there's about 1/8" clearance at static ride height, going to have to shim the links longer for my own peace of mind. The car hadn't been aligned at this point so you'll notice that the pich bolts and jam nuts are still loose on the upper control arms, there are also no cotter pins at this point.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0430-1.jpg

All together for test-driving
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0434-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0435-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0436-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_0437-1.jpg

-matt

[monteboy84]

My initial impressions are pretty good, the car handles much better now, and still rides great, it's not harsh at all. The rear suspension still needs work, the rubber bushings are pretty mushy and it really ruins the feel of the car in terms of solid cornering and predictability. I've got a new design in the works for the rear of these cars, which is the reason I haven't bought aftermarket arms just yet.

-matt

[monteboy84]

That's what I'm wondering about.. I'm doing a rear disc kit and am wondering if the stock prop valve will be ok, or if I'll have to change it...

I've got an update on this. I drove the car about 150 miles this weekend and got a chance to give the brakes a real test on a back-road. After 3 or 4 stop-tests, I've got way too much rear brake, every time I eased onto brakes until lock-up, it was the rears locking up first. So, I need to put an adjustable proportioning valve in and gut my stock proportioning valve, I imagine you will need to do the same.

-matt

[Tony_SS]

Thanks for the update. I got my rears on too and they feel great.. but have not pushed them hard since I think I have a leaking master and the front lines are still the crappy originals. Let me know the details on your prop valve swap when you get to that point. Thanks!

[monteboy84]

A little update.....

I'm still driving the car as it was when I got it on the road, it drives great, goes down the interstate beautifully. It handles great, but the rear suspension is still too washy with all the stock garbage in it. Wheel-hop is also an issue from a standing start. I swapped the old Carter in-line fuel pump for the Holley unit I had here, which works fine but is LOUD, really obnoxious. All-in-all I'm really happy with the car, but I'm looking forward to ditching this motor and carburetor for a fuel-injected LS motor in the near future.

I've added something to my wish list, I'll pick one of these up over the winter. After riding with a buddy who uses a TomTom GPS as his speedometer, I thought that for sure somebody has got to be making an in-dash GPS speedometer. Soo after a quick Google search....
http://www.speedhut.com/custom_gauge_description-gauge_type-Speedometer_GPS-auto_number-887.htm
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

So, why does it make sense? You can change transmissions, senders, gearing, tire size, or anything you want without having to reprogram or re-gear a speedometer. I've got a Nordskog programmable digital speedo in it now, but at some point between parking it in the shed 7 years ago, and getting it on the road now, it decided it didn't want to turn on anymore.

The price of this isn't bad, for the unit without the turn signals and hi-beam indicator it's $259, plus $50 for the GPS sender (I don't think this is included but I have to call and double-check). Not to mention, these are custom-made to your spec, so I can put the colors and font on them that I want, pretty neat really. You can even have a custom logo put on them, but I'll probably opt to leave them blank and clean.

-matt

[monteboy84]

Time for a fuel-injected 5.3 LS swap....

Here are a few shots of it in the garage, losing its old power(less)plant.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/100_0465-1.jpg

Vortec 350, all stock internals from a 98 Yukon
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/100_0466-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/100_0462-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/100_0463-1.jpg

Ready to lift out!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/100_0469-1.jpg

Much better
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/100_0472-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/100_0473-1.jpg

I'll add pictures of my 5.3 a little later, I've got most of the parts in my garage, just a few things left to source.

-matt

[CruizinKev]

nice progress! :cheers:

[monteboy84]

Thanks Kevin, I hope your Monte is moving along too, summer will be here in no-time! Anyway, here are some progress pics to check out.


Here's the 5.3 when I first got it, with the harness draped on to label all the plugs.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/100_0475-1.jpg

3 Broken exhaust bolts to fight with, this one will be the worst :bang:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/100_0476-1.jpg

More messy stock harness routing. Not exactly where it's all supposed to go, but you get the idea
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/100_0478-1.jpg

Getting closer! I used the info on lt1swap.com to a great extent, and used Google to figure out some little bits I couldn't figure out there. Here's the harness with all the unnecessary wires removed. I got rid of the 4l60e wiring except for VSS, since I'll be running my 700R4 for now, and hopefully a T56 in a year or two.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/100_0479-1.jpg

Jenny Craig would be proud, I lost 5 pounds in two nights!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/100_0481-1.jpg

Waiting for a harness mock-up:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/100_0483-2.jpg

Here's my harness mocked onto the motor and rearranged, rebundled. I turned all the fuel injectors in toward the intake and ran the harness along the intake and around the back. More than clean looks, I went this way for serviceability and ease of install. I still have a run off each side of the motor to the rear for the O2's and VSS, and a run under the motor for the starter and crank sensor, but otherwise everything is in this main intake run.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/100_0484-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/100_0491-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/100_0493-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/100_0494-1.jpg
I'm going to use the C100 connector to tap into the car, this will make it a simple process to remove the harness from the car without cutting any wires, and should make for a clean install.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/100_0495-1.jpg

C2 connector, for hooking the engine harness to the stock truck fuse block
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/100_0496-1.jpg

Some don't like the truck fuse block, but I'm a fan of it. The more OEM wiring components I use, the better I'll feel about reliability when I'm far from home.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/100_0498-1.jpg

Anywho, that's where I'm at with it. I need to figure out if these senders (oil press, water temp) will power my stock gauges. If they will, I'll simply wire my gauges to those wires, but if they don't, I need to add senders to the motor and wires to the harness.

For anyone who's scared of doing their own harness, I've never done anything like this before, and I'm only 2 nights into it at this point, so it's really not as time-consuming as you'd think. I imagine that guys who have done a couple are far faster than this even, but I've been taking my time to keep from screwing it up.

Thanks for looking.

-matt

[SRD art]

Thanks for posting Matt. I'm a bit intimidated about doing my 5.3 G-body swap at this point, prolly mostly because I don't have any of the wiring yet, only the motor. I appreciate what you said about it not being that tough even for a greenie. I'll keep watching with open eyes...

You also mentioned the Unlimited hood doesn't fit well. I was going to order my hood from them, their price is better by far but I don't want something that doesn't fit right. Was yours nice before you put it in storage or was it like that new? What exactly is wrong with it? Thanks for the insight.

[monteboy84]

Thanks for posting Matt. I'm a bit intimidated about doing my 5.3 G-body swap at this point, prolly mostly because I don't have any of the wiring yet, only the motor. I appreciate what you said about it not being that tough even for a greenie. I'll keep watching with open eyes...

You also mentioned the Unlimited hood doesn't fit well. I was going to order my hood from them, their price is better by far but I don't want something that doesn't fit right. Was yours nice before you put it in storage or was it like that new? What exactly is wrong with it? Thanks for the insight.

No problem, it's really not a bad process. Besides plugs that I've removed, I haven't cut a single wire, so up to this point every functional wire is OEM continuous from the computer to whatever the component is. Pick up a 99-02 5.3 truck wiring harness, they're cheap ($100-200, I got mine for $100) and you can use them with the truck's underhood fuse block, which to me is a huge plus.

As for the Unlimited fiberglass hood, it's really a mess. I like the look of it with the 2 inch cowl, but the fit is horrendous. The center of the front is too high when I have the front corners flush, the the right side is too low and flat to match the fender, while the left side is even or high in places. It's light, but the build quality is piss poor, on the rear portion of the cowl they need needed extra support, so they glassed in a piece of cardboard, which would be bad enough, but it looks to have come from the bottom of a case of pop, so my cowl has rings on it from where cans had deformed the cardboard. The gelcoat also had voids and air bubbles in various places, and on top of all the flaws it took over a month for it to show up...

I'm trying to be honest about the hood without being rude, but I could not in good conscience recommend parts from that company to anyone, Harwood is not that much more expensive for a far superior product.

-matt

[SRD art]

Man thanks for the info. Is your hood a race weight pin on or the bolt on? I may just have to reconsider who I order my hood from. Unfortunately finding a hood for the 78-80 Cutlass' is little more tough, 81-88s are easier to find. There are some higher priced ones but I still take a chance with bad fit.

Pop can rings? Now that takes the cake. Wow.

[ryeguy2006a]

You have most of the same components I will eventually put on my Trans Am; C5 Brakes w/ LS1 rears, speedhut gauges, and fuel injection. Nice build, I used to have an '88 MC SS and it was a dog with the 305.

[SRD art]

Oh yeah, I forgot to say nice ride. I haven't seen too many non SS cars from those years, it's a refreshing look and am looking forward to seeing it all get done and on the track!

[monteboy84]

Man thanks for the info. Is your hood a race weight pin on or the bolt on? I may just have to reconsider who I order my hood from. Unfortunately finding a hood for the 78-80 Cutlass' is little more tough, 81-88s are easier to find. There are some higher priced ones but I still take a chance with bad fit.

Pop can rings? Now that takes the cake. Wow.

I wanna say it was the race one, since there's no provision for a stock latch, but it bolts onto the hinges with the springs removed. The old Cutlass definitely presents a problem, I think I would honestly look into lightening the steel hood and adding a cowl. It may have a cool vintage race feel with a bunch of lightening holes in the underside bracing.

Thanks too for the compliment on the car, when I was younger I always had a goal of giving it an SS nose, but the longer I've owned, the more I've fallen it love with the standard front end.

-matt

[monteboy84]

You have most of the same components I will eventually put on my Trans Am; C5 Brakes w/ LS1 rears, speedhut gauges, and fuel injection. Nice build, I used to have an '88 MC SS and it was a dog with the 305.

Thanks man, I'm going for the most practical performance combination I can get into on a budget, using as many OEM parts as I can for the sake of reliability and parts availability. I haven't ordered anything from speedhut yet, but I plan to sometime in the spring, probably just a GPS Speedometer and a Tachometer to match. Your TA looks sharp, I love the second-gen cars.

-matt

[sr73bu]

Nice Monte!

I like that GPS Speedo... I'm actually going to use my iPod touch with a Speedo app ($.99) to monitor my speed... but I may have to get one of those in the future..

-Sean

[monteboy84]

Time for a little update, with a bunch of pictures, 42 to be exact. To start with, I had to remove some broken exhaust manifold bolts . . . hell on earth.

The first one wasn't too terrible, left-hand drill bit, a little heat, and an Easy-out got it right out.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/100_0508-1.jpg

Glorious.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/100_0510-1.jpg

The next pain in my arse.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/100_0509-1.jpg

On it's way out, now we're rolling.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/100_0511-1.jpg

This one, not so much. it was a major pain, I ended up drilling down the the center of it with a 1/4" center drill and slowly backing it out with the Easy-out, bit by bit.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/100_0512-1.jpg

I decided to to do a little clean-up on the block to make sure it'd be easy enough to clean it for paint later. I'm not doing the whole thing right now since it's 30 degrees outside, and I'm doing this in an unheated garage, which isn't exactly good painting weather.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/100_0535-1.jpg

Secret weapon from Home Depot, works great for block cleanup.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/100_0536-1.jpg

That'll be enough for now, I'll clean it up more later once it's back out of the car from mocking it up.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/100_0537-1.jpg

As you can see here, the SBC mount is stamped in the center, which kept it from sitting flat on the adapter plates.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/100_0538-1.jpg

All better. These will get painted when I do the block later.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/100_0539-1.jpg

In all her glory, ready to set in for mock-up.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/100_0540-1.jpg

Another angle. I pulled the harness off to mock it in there. I also pulled off the #8 coil pack in case there were clearance issues.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/100_0541-1.jpg

Beautiful MN January day to work in the garage. With the door open, no less.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/100_0542-1.jpg

Looks a little empty in there.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/100_0543-1.jpg

My messy garage. I'll clean it, tomorrow....
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/100_0544-1.jpg

<Insert Dramatic Theme Song here> Ready to set it in for mock-up.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/100_0545-1.jpg

If you look closely, you can see it slowly dropping into the engine bay...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/100_0546-1.jpg

That'll do.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/100_0547-1.jpg

Lots of room back here!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/100_0548-1.jpg

Plenty more room over here.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/100_0549-1.jpg

and back here, good Lord, could fit an Ecotec between the motor and firewall. In all honesty, it looks like more room in the picture than there actually is. I'll probably keep the motor where it's at to keep from having to cut too much up for fitment. Besides, moving the motor back 1" has less of a handling impact than moving the battery to the trunk. so I'll keep it easy to work on.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/100_0550-1.jpg

This picture is hard to decipher, but what it is showing is how close the pan is to the crossmember. This is from the front passenger side, you can see the tie rod end in the corner of the pic.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/100_0552-1.jpg

[monteboy84]

This is almost comical. I knew the truck pan would be low, I just didn't know it'd be 2 inches too low. This car sits at 5 inches here already, so the pan would be at 3 inches :eek2:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/100_0553-1.jpg

This is where I started to use some colorful words, the truck manifold isn't even close to fitting on the driver's size. This means I need LS1 manifolds or headers, but more importantly, something that costs more money.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/100_0554-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/100_0555-1.jpg

Passenger side is a better situation, not that it does me any good.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/100_0556-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/100_0557-1.jpg

Found a cracked weld on the frame while I was down there.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/100_0558-1.jpg

Now, for some harness clean-up. As you can see, the grounds have extra length from re-routing the harness.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/100_0559-1.jpg

With the extra length cut out and the wires stripped, they're ready to join.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/100_0560-1.jpg

Not the most beautiful solder job ever, but it's strong.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/100_0561-1.jpg

This also looks sloppy, but it's as close to water-tight as I could get it. Thankfully it will be covered by my braided harness wrap when the install is complete.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/100_0562-1.jpg

This temp sender had a bunch of extra wire.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/100_0564-1.jpg

Shortened and wrapped.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/100_0565-1.jpg

Probably where the fuse block and ECM will live.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/100_0566-1.jpg

Shortened up the knock sensor wires.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/100_0567-1.jpg

Soldered.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/100_0568-1.jpg

Heatshrunk and ready for action.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/100_0569-1.jpg


-matt

[ryeguy2006a]

Looking good man. You can probably find some good used headers for fairly cheap. Looking good though.

[monteboy84]

Oddly enough, I just bought some used headers after making my post this morning, found a good deal and jumped on it, so I now have headers and a Y-Pipe coming for my swap. They're MAC headers for an F-body, and obviously they're used, but I think they'll fit my car really well. I do a lot of coating with Cerakote and have some high-temp colors here, so these will be media blasted and coated Tungsten Gray.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/Headers01-1.jpg

The Y-pipe will get butchered to use the Cats for my dual exhaust system.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/Headers02-1.jpg

-matt

[monteboy84]

This project is still alive, albeit a bit slow-moving. Since starting this I received a significant promotion at work. Unfortunately this means a lot more hours in the office, but it also made it possible for me to afford a 2001 Z06 this spring, so with driving that I haven't been quite as eager to finish the Monte. With that said, it's winter now and the Z is parked, so I'm back to focusing on the Monte. Having the Z06 also allowed me to focus on what I want from the Monte, so I've been spending more time planning and less time working on it. I have everything I need in order to run it with the 700R4, but as you'll see below I plan to ultimately convert it to a manual T56.

Updates:
- Bought and installed an Autokraft oil pan. Very impressive piece, was really a nice install and fits excellent. I have pictures posted on ls1tech, but I need to do a full update post here to match.
- Bought a Viper T56 this morning, I'm planning to use it with a Quicktime Bellhousing and a modified Viper input shaft, rather than converting to an F-body input (they're expensive and hard to find)

-matt

[lsx80monte]

Oddly enough, I just bought some used headers after making my post this morning, found a good deal and jumped on it, so I now have headers and a Y-Pipe coming for my swap. They're MAC headers for an F-body, and obviously they're used, but I think they'll fit my car really well. I do a lot of coating with Cerakote and have some high-temp colors here, so these will be media blasted and coated Tungsten Gray.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/Headers01-1.jpg

The Y-pipe will get butchered to use the Cats for my dual exhaust system.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/Headers02-1.jpg

-matt

I bet those fbody mac mid lengths didnt fit. I only say this because I bought those same headers for my 80 monte with a 5.3l swap and I had to cut and reweld the flanges. And honestly I am not happy with them. I should have gone with the ebay fbody stainless longtubes as I heard other gbody owners say fit with minor messaging.

[85GPLEf41]

ooh you going t56 now as well?? I am also switching gears now "literally" on GP's build now.. I recently picked up a 98 t56 for cheap. what are you thinking in regards to clutch pedal, speedo, vss, nss, etc etc?

[ryeguy2006a]

Looks like you are coming along. It is funny though, I looked back at your thread, and I had posted that we have many similar parts on our cars. Now I am halfway through my LS1/t56 swap, and I am running Mac Mid-length headers on my build, lol. Great minds think alike. Mine fit ok, but I had to do quite a bit of massaging to the drivers side, and passenger's side required some frame mods... Now they are installed and I am happy with the way they fit. Look forward to seeing some more updates.

[monteboy84]

Been a while since I updated, I haven't really been working on this but I need room in the garage so I'm pushing to finish it up now in order to get it down off the jack stands.

I had originally planned to run the truck accessories, but all of the parts I bought were used and came in looking like junk. To top it off, everything was a bit half-assed in terms of how things fit. I tried a number of solutions to the issue of clearance between the steering pump and box, hated all of them. Not to mention, even when the pulley cleared, the way I'd have to run the lines was pretty hokey. Long story short, I set aside the truck parts and bought a Corvette Accessory Drive kit from Pace, this is one hell of a good deal when you consider the price versus aftermarket or even used parts. To duplicate this with used parts would cost me more than new from Pace. I also bought an LS3 Corvette waterpump that was a never-run crate engine take-off on ebay, as well as a used harmonic balancer from a Corvette. It's worth noting, this Accy Drive will NOT work with a Camaro LS3 balancer, the offset is different. The LS3 water pump also has a different outlet location than the 5.3 or LS1, which makes radiator hose routing a bit easier. The pump is lighter than the stock truck piece, but I don't know how much, I've ehard varying numbers. If I weigh mine before installing, I'll document that here.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/IMG_1328_zps033ec88d-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_1328_zps033ec88d.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/IMG_1330_zps952881de-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_1330_zps952881de.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/IMG_1331_zps985ab92a-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_1331_zps985ab92a.jpg.html)

Swapping this gives me a good chance to clean up the front of the engine. I need to buy/borrow/rent a puller for the balancer, so I just left the truck one in place for prep and paint. All I used to clean up the rust and loose paint is my straight bristle steel wire brush on the Dewalt drill. It does a good job, and the Rustoleum Industrial paint will cover a certain amount of remaining rust. I usually don't like Gloss paint under the hood, but this stuff is really durable and they don't have a Satin, only Gloss or Flat.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/IMG_1329_zps7d3ae03b-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_1329_zps7d3ae03b.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/IMG_1333_zps7f921cc4-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_1333_zps7f921cc4.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/IMG_1335_zps91d1a958-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_1335_zps91d1a958.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/IMG_1336_zps21790b3a-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_1336_zps21790b3a.jpg.html)
Also had to paint the LS3 Balancer...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/IMG_1337_zpsabe096bc-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_1337_zpsabe096bc.jpg.html)
Much gooder.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/IMG_1340_zpse57f312c-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_1340_zpse57f312c.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/IMG_1344_zpsab85aafd-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_1344_zpsab85aafd.jpg.html)

I had gaskets for the water pump, but I can't find them now so I'll pick up some Fel Pro's on my way home tonight, more to come.

-matt

[Ron.in.SoCal]

Recently went through that install. Had to borrow a tool from the local GM service tech (+ a six pack). The GM pulley removal tool is just ok; Snap On makes a better one. Also there is an install tool as well. Bolts are torque to yield so I got a new one as well. IIRC, torque to 35 pounds and then stretch 140 degrees. It's a good time to pin the crank if you're into that sorta thing :cheers:

[monteboy84]

Thanks Ron! I've got access to some really nice pullers at a family shop, but they're 70 miles away so I may just need to wait and borrow one. For installation, I've got a Porta Power with some hollow cylinders so I may give that a try. I'm a bit torn on the bolt and pinning the crank. On one hand, I know where they're coming from with the torque-to-yield bolt, but at the same time, they're one hell of a press fit, so I think it's a bunch of overkill to use a TTY bolt as well.

I don't have any plans to run a blower or anything, so I don't know what I'll do, probably skip the pin for now and order up an ARP bolt for it.

-matt

[monteboy84]

Worked on it some more last night, found some water pump gaskets and got the accessory drive installed. This really is a great kit, it fits like it was made for this car and having all new parts gives me some real peace of mind about traveling far from home in it.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/IMG_1362_zpsde3e2600-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_1362_zpsde3e2600.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/IMG_1363_zps137d70bd-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_1363_zps137d70bd.jpg.html)

The Gates 20734 hose fits great without any cutting.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/IMG_1361_zpsc04b475a-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_1361_zpsc04b475a.jpg.html)

With the truck balancer still in place, you can see the difference in offset, it looks to be a little over 1 inch.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/IMG_1365_zps677c22a3-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_1365_zps677c22a3.jpg.html)

Steering box clearance is good, there's an inch or more between the PS pulley and the fittings. The return line will be a simple straight AN6 Push-lock fitting and hose, and the pressure line will be a short loop of high-pressure AN6 hose. I used DSE's AN6 fitting in the pump to provide clearance for the hose end when I install it.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/IMG_1366_zps1e5a3019-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_1366_zps1e5a3019.jpg.html)

-matt

[howehot]

A cheap installation tool is a variety of bolts in different lengths and a washer. I can't remember the metric size but I just bought one of each length until I was able to use the retaining bolt.

[monteboy84]

Some more slow, relatively meaningless progress. The air intake is a modified K&N Cold Air kit from a chevy truck, it's aluminum and was chromed, but when I cut it apart at a weld seam to turn part of it, the chrome started to flake. Since I'm not a big fan of chrome in general, I peeled the rest of it off in order to paint the tube. The valve covers were also ugly, so I decided to tackle them at the same time. VHT Black Wrinkle Paint to the rescue, this stuff did a great job and honestly for my first time with it, came out so near to the look of a powdercoated wrinkle finish that I see no reason to spend the additional money for that. I cleaned up all of the parts well with Zep Foaming Engine Degreaser, cleaned up casting flaws/parting lines on the valve covers with the belt sander, and went over everything with 400 grit before paint. The paint was heated in HOT water before spraying, and the parts were cured at 200 degrees for an hour after spraying. Not perfect, but I'm very happy with the results.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/IMG_1368_zps3a59ab66-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_1368_zps3a59ab66.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/IMG_1369_zps6a7a2216-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_1369_zps6a7a2216.jpg.html)

-matt

[monteboy84]

A cheap installation tool is a variety of bolts in different lengths and a washer. I can't remember the metric size but I just bought one of each length until I was able to use the retaining bolt.

I've tried something similar before on a power steering pump and had issues. So long as you use a quality high-grade fastener you'll be alright, but it's still a bit risky. On this one, I'll get it off with a puller, but then to ease the install I'll throw the balancer in the oven for a bit to warm it up, that should get it on without too much drama (4 foot breaker bar :) )

-matt

[monteboy84]

Valve covers are looking good.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/IMG_1415_zps5166e8b1-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_1415_zps5166e8b1.jpg.html)

Upper radiator hose built. I was going to use silicone elbows and an aluminum tube, but that $#!7 is expensive, and nobody carries it. I took a Dayco 72044 and cut and lengthened it with a chromed brass 1.25 sink pipe from Home Depot, scuffed to dull the chrome. The 72044 hose fits a Chrysler minivan, so even if it blew out on a cross-country trip, I think I could find a replacement pretty easily.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/IMG_1423_zps002d2906-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_1423_zps002d2906.jpg.html)

Intake is all put together. I've got a K&N Bulge connector on one joint, and a Rubber PVC connector on another. Looks cheesy so I'll replace them later with clamps from spectre.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/IMG_1420_zps38ab96e3-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_1420_zps38ab96e3.jpg.html)

Random picture from mocking up rad hoses. I really need to work on my iphone photography skills :/
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/IMG_1416_zpsa3324031-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_1416_zpsa3324031.jpg.html)

-matt

[daveybtv]

looks like a tight fit, keep up the good work

[monteboy84]

looks like a tight fit, keep up the good work

It looks worse than it is, it's really no worse than working on the old SBC in the car. Ideally, I'd have the motor pushed ahead maybe 3/8"? Right now I have the passenger side valve cover off because it was contacting the heater box. I don't like that at all, and I don't want to clearance the heater box. To make it clear will have maybe .000001% effect on the weight bias, so I'm leaning toward pushing it ahead for ease of wrenching.

-matt

[monteboy84]

Filthy throttle body is filthy, time to clean it up...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/D780A585_zps76e65deb-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/Snapbucket/D780A585_zps76e65deb.jpg.html)
MMM, yummy
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/8A971508_zps3226324b-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/Snapbucket/8A971508_zps3226324b.jpg.html)https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/06F3E319_zpsee049660-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/Snapbucket/06F3E319_zpsee049660.jpg.html)
Removed the coolant tubes. I just clamped the tube in the vise, then heated the throttle body with the torch for a bit, and wiggled the TB back and forth until it pulled off the tube. Same thing for the other one. This literally is just a hole in the TB, with nothing connected to it, so it will stay wide open and not hurt a thing.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/E3A56FFA_zps59c78d45-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/Snapbucket/E3A56FFA_zps59c78d45.jpg.html)https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/10FE7BA7_zpsdc672347-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/Snapbucket/10FE7BA7_zpsdc672347.jpg.html)
Getting better, I used Zep's foaming engine cleaner to get the filth off.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/1549933B_zps115d7b57-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/Snapbucket/1549933B_zps115d7b57.jpg.html)https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/9B583929_zpsff0678d0-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/Snapbucket/9B583929_zpsff0678d0.jpg.html)
Then some bead blasting, and voila.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/6B188734_zps8d521cad-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/Snapbucket/6B188734_zps8d521cad.jpg.html)https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/67ACAF90_zps909d4ade-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/Snapbucket/67ACAF90_zps909d4ade.jpg.html)
Cleaned these up too.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/922E88B3_zps1e337fc1-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/Snapbucket/922E88B3_zps1e337fc1.jpg.html)
I could have just as well left it raw, but figured I'd coat it to seal it up. The TB was a bit pitted up, so I think it'd look ugly in a hurry without paint. Decided on Flat Black to make it match the intake.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/D9FD4619_zps8aeaa57e-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/Snapbucket/D9FD4619_zps8aeaa57e.jpg.html)https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/9426F0FE_zpsf26c6cc8-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/Snapbucket/9426F0FE_zpsf26c6cc8.jpg.html)https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/04BEDEEB_zpsc5a40dcb-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/Snapbucket/04BEDEEB_zpsc5a40dcb.jpg.html)

I'm happy with how it came out. In my naturally backward process, I'm thinking about porting it this weekend, I didn't realize how simple it was to do a basic P&P on them until looking at it and reading some write-ups on the subject.

-matt

[SRD art]

Great progress Matt. I like wrinkle finish too. :cool:

[monteboy84]

I got a ton of work done on this last week and weekend, my wiring harness is about complete and I got the battery relocated to the trunk and wired. I have too many pictures to sort out at work but I'm going to try getting them posted tonight from at home. Shooting for June 15th as my ETA to have it running and driving.

-matt

[TURBO BUICK]

Matt, it's comming along nicely. Anymore updates? Pics and description of how you mounted and wired the trunk battery would be appreciated. I am hoping to start on my build shortly and am always looking for info. Again, nice job. Rich

[monteboy84]

Matt, it's comming along nicely. Anymore updates? Pics and description of how you mounted and wired the trunk battery would be appreciated. I am hoping to start on my build shortly and am always looking for info. Again, nice job. Rich

Thanks! I need to organize and upload pictures, but the car will be on the road this weekend. I tried firing it up last weekend but had issues with the truck underhood fuse block so I ordered pieces to eliminate it.

I have to finish the battery mount this weekend as well, but the wiring was very easy. I had originally planned to run the cable along the frame rail (bad idea) but found that it easily fit into the stock plastic wire channel that runs under the door sill plates. From there I ran it beneath the rear seat and right up into the trunk. I use 2ga welding cable, in my experience it's better quality and cheaper than what's sold as battery cable.

[monteboy84]

The car is running! (Finally) Now, to show how it got there....

I needed a high pressure pump and hated the idea of a GN pump, which would starve under cornering and undoubtedly be unreliable. So, I bought a Dorman replacement tank.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/IMG_1617_zps17a48cfe-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_1617_zps17a48cfe.jpg.html)

I needed to change it, so I cut this lovely hole in it.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/IMG_1621_zps5b5aeabc-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_1621_zps5b5aeabc.jpg.html)

To make room for this.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/IMG_1623_zps5ccae737-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_1623_zps5ccae737.jpg.html)

Which would be mounted with this.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/IMG_1930_zps581f5a71-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_1930_zps581f5a71.jpg.html)

Then I welded it in.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/IMG_1932_zps9bf6e9f1-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_1932_zps9bf6e9f1.jpg.html)

and test-fitted.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/IMG_1934_zpsb9817e26-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_1934_zpsb9817e26.jpg.html)

I needed to bring it to the shop, so I loaded it in the Z06.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/IMG_1955_zpsd3654fe1-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_1955_zpsd3654fe1.jpg.html)

Then I put some paint on it.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/IMG_1961_zps7f5a65be-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_1961_zps7f5a65be.jpg.html)

With it in the car, I ran some lines and installed this.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/IMG_1963_zps409646d7-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_1963_zps409646d7.jpg.html)

[monteboy84]

I changed motor mount plates to move the motor ahead slightly. Here it is, going in one last time.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/IMG_1827_zpsd96f4ba4-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_1827_zpsd96f4ba4.jpg.html)

Happy Happy Happy.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/IMG_1829_zps7ca9e42d-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_1829_zps7ca9e42d.jpg.html)

Getting closer.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/IMG_1835_zps0d5f64a4-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_1835_zps0d5f64a4.jpg.html)

Oooh
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/IMG_1837_zps152818da-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_1837_zps152818da.jpg.html)

Then it was time to work on a hoist, so I had to get it ready to move. First time it's been on the ground since late 2011.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/IMG_1958_zps16414844-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_1958_zps16414844.jpg.html)

I needed exhaust, so I decided to make some.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/IMG_1976_zpseade470b-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_1976_zpseade470b.jpg.html)

My MIG tacks made my TIG welds look sloppy, thankfully nobody will see this under the car :dunno:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/IMG_1977_zpsd1d7c570-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_1977_zpsd1d7c570.jpg.html)

When I was happy with the fit, I welded on some flanges.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/IMG_1981_zpsc1e322c6-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_1981_zpsc1e322c6.jpg.html)

To keep it from cracking, I added these snazzy flex-joints, one on each side.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/IMG_1978_zps9a4c3d0f-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_1978_zps9a4c3d0f.jpg.html)

I got as far as the X-pipe before it was time to clean up for the weekend.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/IMG_1980_zps470d9450-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_1980_zps470d9450.jpg.html)

[RS_Customs]

Looks good!

Where did you get the pump kit or parts?

Robert

[monteboy84]

Thanks!

The pump was a take-out that we had lying around from an 03 Pontiac Aztek because it had a bad wiring connector. It happened to be the height that I wanted, so I put a new connector on and I'll replace the pump with a Walbro at some point.

The sheetmetal parts are my own design. I'm a draftsman so I modelled them up in Inventor and had them laser-cut at work.

[CruizinKev]

good work Matt!!! I like that Aztek pump mod!! :twothumbs

[monteboy84]

good work Matt!!! I like that Aztek pump mod!! :twothumbs

Thanks! One of my big goals with this project is to use as many OEM parts as possible. I used to have a Holley inline pump on it for the carb, which worked fine, but I never wanted to go too far with it in case that pump went out, since nobody seems to carry them. In a case like that, I'd be stuck cobbling something together just to get back on the road. With the Aztek pump, I know I could find a direct replacement or at least something that I could make fit in a pinch anywhere I go. Also, despite the occasional failure, factory in-tank pumps are proven to run for 100,000+ miles, something that very few aftermarket pumps can claim.

[monteboy84]

It's alive! I abandoned the Truck Underhood Fuse Block when after many hours of head scratching I was unable to get power where I needed it to make it run. I used the Dorman fuse block and relays as recommended by lt1swap.com. I also fought and fought and fought with a misfire until I eventually found a broken wire to Injector #2. The car runs and drives now, goes down the road great and has strong, smooth power through the RPM band. The used Aztek pump I had died on the first day, so I replaced the pump itself with a brand new AcDelco. Fuel mileage seems to be poor, but it hasn't been tuned and I don't have a working speedometer at the moment so I can't calculate it just yet. I still have some things to do, but having it on the road and running is a big motivator for completing all of the little line items that I have left.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/IMG_2026_zps006de709-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_2026_zps006de709.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/IMG_2027_zps9dd49269-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_2027_zps9dd49269.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/IMG_2028_zps9b450c2e-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_2028_zps9b450c2e.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/IMG_2088_zpsf72ab3db-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_2088_zpsf72ab3db.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/IMG_2085_zps0b966db5-1.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/monteboy84/media/IMG_2085_zps0b966db5.jpg.html)

[monteboy84]

I've been daily-driving the car for a week now, seems to be working good and fuel mileage is better than I thought, rough estimate of my miles in the last week has it over 20mpg which is phenomenal versus the old carbureted 5.7.

[carguykeith]

Great job! Love this build.

[monteboy84]

Great job! Love this build.

Thanks! As with every car here it's an ever-evolving beast, but I'm happy with the progress on it and have really enjoyed driving it with the new motor. The real killer for me is the automatic trans, it seems to never do what I want it to do and of everything on the car I feel like it's the most likely item to leave me stranded somewhere. A manual trans is high on my list of options for the next step to take with it.

ETA: Love your Regal, it's got to be a real beast with that motor!

[carguykeith]

I love the power my motor makes but I have $10k into a 600hp motor that wil get me 10mpg at best... To do it all over again I would totally go your rout, than build a 416 ls3 to drop in to make the same power and get 20mpg while doing it. Or you could always just boost that 5.3 and have the 600whp or better for about the same total cost as I have.

[monteboy84]

Understandable, fuel mileage was one of the big reasons for the 5.3 swap. My Z06 pulls over 20 with ease and has enough power that I'll never max its potential. I'll eventually swap the 5.3 for a more potent 6.0 build or even a cammed aluminum 5.3, but not until after I put a manual trans in. At that point, 450hp or so is my target, in order to keep my stock rearend alive.

[monteboy84]

We've gotten heavier into road racing as of late and I'm bouncing around the idea of selling this car to free up funds to buy/build a C4 or C5 Corvette track car. If interested please shoot me a PM or give me a call 320-223-8917.

-matt