Head Gasket Suggestions..Which One..

[obengston]

I need to replace my head gasket. I have A SBC 383, with Alum Dart Pro 1 215cc heads. Any suggestions on what Head Gasket to go with.

[ErikLS2]

Multi layered steel, or MLS, are the latest and greatest. The heads and block should be VERY flat though, so make sure you check them or have them checked properly.

[obengston]

Well I will take the heads and have them checked, but How can I check the block. It has been recently built maybe 800 miles.

[Pro Stock]

If you trust the machine shop the block will still be flat, #1 choice-Fel Pro MLS, #2 choice Cometic MLS, #3 Fel Pro high perf composition.

Dale

[ErikLS2]

You'll need a machined straight edge meant for this purpose. Napa has some good prices on lots of professional grade tools so I would check there first. These things aren't that expensive and a good investment if you ever do engine work.

Then you just place it on the block and try to slip a feeler gauge underneath it, the thinnest one in there is probably a 0.0015". If that doesn't fit you're good. You can check the heads the same way.

Being that you have probably blown a head gasket after
only 800 miles means that either something isn't flat, there was an error made in assembly or you got your gaskets at the local 99 cent store. If the heads and block are flat and you don't see an obvious failure of the head gasket you have to have it checked for cracks, start with the heads since they're already off.

If you need to have either the block or the heads machined, make sure your machinist knows your head gasket material before hand. MLS gaskets usually require a smoother finish (on top of being extremely flat) than other types of gasket material. They also should use special "torque-to-yield" head bolts

Find out what caused the problem, then go from there.

[obengston]

Not foresure why the gasket failed. I just finished taking everything off the engine only thing to do now is unbolt the heads and lift them up. I should be able to tell more about that tom when I lift them. I will be replacing both gaskets. I have not run the car hot, just hard but not anything to extreme. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that its a head gasket and not the block or heads. The guy that put it together well not to sure what gasket he used, but I'm guessing he did'nt (or hoping) he just used a cheap gasket. After I got the engine back I had to take the intake off and reseal it because it was leaking. I now jus got to read whats the best way to take the head bolts out to include the bolts thats on the outside of the head.

[Pro Stock]

You'll need a machined straight edge meant for this purpose. Napa has some good prices on lots of professional grade tools so I would check there first. These things aren't that expensive and a good investment if you ever do engine work.

Then you just place it on the block and try to slip a feeler gauge underneath it, the thinnest one in there is probably a 0.0015". If that doesn't fit you're good. You can check the heads the same way.

Being that you have probably blown a head gasket after
only 800 miles means that either something isn't flat, there was an error made in assembly or you got your gaskets at the local 99 cent store. If the heads and block are flat and you don't see an obvious failure of the head gasket you have to have it checked for cracks, start with the heads since they're already off.

If you need to have either the block or the heads machined, make sure your machinist knows your head gasket material before hand. MLS gaskets usually require a smoother finish (on top of being extremely flat) than other types of gasket material. They also should use special "torque-to-yield" head bolts

Find out what caused the problem, then go from there.
I agree with everything that Erik says except for the torque to yield bolts, if you want to upgrade in that department you should get a set of ARP head studs or a like quality set of studs (B&B ect), follow their directions closely and that issue will be solved.

Dale

[obengston]

If there is a crack in the block would it be on the area where the gasket goes or in the piston chamber. Also would I be able to see it?? There was no water in the oil but water going into the piston/exhaust.

[ErikLS2]

I agree with everything that Erik says except for the torque to yield bolts, if you want to upgrade in that department you should get a set of ARP head studs or a like quality set of studs (B&B ect), follow their directions closely and that issue will be solved.

Dale

Dale, have you had any negative experiences with the TTY bolts? Or is it more you have always had good luck (obviously) with the ARP studs?



If there is a crack in the block would it be on the area where the gasket goes or in the piston chamber. Also would I be able to see it?? There was no water in the oil but water going into the piston/exhaust.

I wouldn't start worrying about a cracked block until you've checked the heads and made sure both surfaces are flat. It's probalby the least likely cause of this problem anyway.

If you can see a crack, there you go. Most times they aren't that readily apparent and have to be checked for properly.

[Pro Stock]

Dale, have you had any negative experiences with the TTY bolts? Or is it more you have always had good luck (obviously) with the ARP studs?

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No bad luck at all but TTY bolts are usually a one shot deal and have to be replaced everytime you take the heads off, a lot of the LS guys switch to studs when the go through thier engines, otherwise TTY bolts are fine, I certainly wouldn't pull the heads in order to change to studs if there wasn't a problem to begin with.

Dale

[obengston]

Well the heads were dropped off to be taken care of. The shop said I could go with the Cometis gaskets, and I could even spray them with the copper gasket stuff, to include my intake gasket. Any thought on this.

[ErikLS2]

Did they find a problem with the head surface? The copper gasket spray wont hurt anything. I used to use it on the older paper style gaskets. I've never used anything on MLS gaskets, just made sure the surface was very smooth, clean and flat and torqued properly.

[obengston]

Well had the heads resurfaced, got the cometic head gasket from them (they are a performance engine building shop) they said the rest of the heads looked good (valves/springs). They further stated they spray all thier gaskets with that copper stuff. So yesterday I cleaned everything sprayed the gaskets reinstalled everything. Set the rockers, and let it set. I will start it today, so lets keep the fingers crossed here. At least I know exactly how it was put back together this time. Only concern is I hope I put enough silicone across the ends of the intake. I'm worried I may not have put enough. It doid squezz out but not all the way across. I know I should have pulled it right back up, so diffently my faught if it dont. If I messed it up I will haze myself for it later..LOL

[Pro Stock]

Well had the heads resurfaced, got the cometic head gasket from them (they are a performance engine building shop) they said the rest of the heads looked good (valves/springs). They further stated they spray all thier gaskets with that copper stuff. So yesterday I cleaned everything sprayed the gaskets reinstalled everything. Set the rockers, and let it set. I will start it today, so lets keep the fingers crossed here. At least I know exactly how it was put back together this time. Only concern is I hope I put enough silicone across the ends of the intake. I'm worried I may not have put enough. It doid squezz out but not all the way across. I know I should have pulled it right back up, so diffently my faught if it dont. If I messed it up I will haze myself for it later..LOL
Good luck, if you haven't fired it yet put some silicone on your finger and coat the gaps under the ends of the manifold and let that set up.