'67-68 Mustang Coupe Cage installs?

[Wesley J]

Hey All,

I've had no success finding any good info on the install of the 4 point cages that are available. Anyone have any info or links as my seaches have been fruitless.

Cheers,

Wes

[DynoDon]

4 pt. is a roll bar. A minimum of 6 pt to become a Cage. Auto Power makes a nice SCCA legal (club level) bolt in cage for you Mustang.

[Wesley J]

Ok, thanks for the clarification. Does anyone have any links to installs of any 4 point roll bars?

Autopower doesnt list my car in their avalable products.

Wes

[Wesley J]

So, they dont list it on the website but I found it elsewhere. Looks pretty nice although I havent seen any good pictures.

Here's one in a newer mustang:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/Mustang05conv_4in-1.jpg

[68Formula]

Here's another one in a newer mustang:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Do a search in this section.

[sharpe351]

Here's another one in a newer mustang:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Do a search in this section.

This is why racecars have full cages with a halo over your head. That car doesn't appear to have much of anything. Besides, I prefer a weld up cage to a bolt together anyway. SCCA and NHRA have a few differences in cage quality. I like to "sandwich" the cage plates to the floor (rather than weld) with 2 plates and grade 8 bolts. That way, in the event of a rollover, the cage/bar would have to rip the floor free from the entire car before anything drastic could happen.

[Wesley J]

Hey Guys,

Ya, all good info, I guess I should've clarified as I did in another thread. I'm just wondering about the install of the 4 point roll bars on the market as my real reasoning is to improve safety on a street driven car by giving me the ability to mount a 4 point harness to a removable cross bar as well as add a door bar.

I'm guessing I'm WAY better off buying a bender and building my own as I have many other reasons (excuses) to buy a bender anyway.

Wes

[Bryce]

Do it yourself! buy the bender. The fit will be better.

[1bad68cat]

I'm guessing I'm WAY better off buying a bender and building my own as I have many other reasons (excuses) to buy a bender anyway.

Wes

+ what Bryce said.

X2 :2nd:

[Wesley J]

I'm going to have to add on to the shop for tool storage.....

[Bryce]

another good excuse to buy a bender. You now need a bigger shop!! WIN/WIN

[sharpe351]

I bought the kit from Summit Racing. It installs pretty easy and all the hard work is already done for you. Just a thought.

[jfoster]

Check July Popular Hotrodding. They install one in a 66.

[The GMR]

I would never suggest that you purchase a pre made cage / bar setup. They always have fitment issues and the tube work is closer to your head then it could be. That chassis has zero room for error in cage work, having a tube even .5" too close to your head and you will be a goner...

My standards may be higher then some but I believe that the cage work MUST be touching the Exterior skin otherwise it is far to close to your head.

example one. Notch back 67 stang. Each tube is touching the exterior skin so close in fact that all the tubes are just seam sealed to the body to prevent rattle and make it "one" uniform structure again.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

example two. Off-road truck with the same mentality about the tube work.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif


I would get the bender and have at it. Just take your time and the final product will be great!

Jason

[Bryce]

Nice work Jason!

[hivewax]

Some inspiration - http://www.forums.corner-carvers.com/showthread.php?t=27556

[69fbodyproject]

If you want PM me, Dustin has build many rollcages and hoops. As long as you know what the sanctioning body wants for material I know that we can fab it up. Beside if you came up it would be a good chance for you to look at my chassis and three link setup and what I am looking at for my Watts link