70 duster: updating, and a no-dough pro-touring makeover

[dusterbd13]

the origonal build thread on this car can be found at
https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36043

the reason I'm doing a new thread is because I'm changing the direction of the car a little bit.

When i did the car last time, i was trying to go for resto/high school recreated. i succeeded.
the problem is, I've never really enjoyed the car all that much. its been "done" for a few years, and i have about 1500 miles on it. most of those miles were put on out of feeling guilty for owning a car that i don't drive.
since I've built the duster, i built a truck.
https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43374

i actually drive the truck. i put about 10k on it in the last year and a half. i enjoy it. it handles good, runs out good, and stops good. looks good, gets attention.

i built the duster for the pleasure car, but get no pleasure. yeah, its fast. yeah, it looks good. but it doesn't handle or stop worth a crap, its cranky, it rattles, its hot, and its loud. oh, and uncomfortable.

I've contemplated selling it a lot of times, mostly because i don't drive it.


anyway, there's reasons I'm updating it a bit.
1. I'm bored with it.
2. the above mentioned deficiencies.
(and the coolest)
3. my family and i are starting to take weekend trips around the southeast to historic sites, festivals, etc. just spending time together as a family, going places and seeing stuff. My wife and i were talking about this, and i got the idea to build an impala wagon to do it in. went looking at a couple. after the last rust bucket, my wife started to question me about why i wanted "another old car you wont drive". i explained to her my vision of a daily drivable, comfortable family cruiser. her only question was "why not the duster?"
i tried to explain to her. she gave me "the look". i tried to explain some more. she continued to give me "the look".

after w while, i stopped talking. she looked at me and said: spend the time and money doing it to the red car. its paid for, and rust free.

wow.


why the hell didn't i think of that a whole lot sooner????


so to that end, Ive been planning, looking, and starting to work.


when i went down to the shop to start the car so i could get it cleaned up last month after this conversation, it wouldn't start. the last time i drove it, it was cutting out on me at random times, wouldn't idle worth a crap, etc. so i figured my old MSD box was taking a dump. pulled a plug and checked for fire. have fire. so it had to be fuel. a little bit of ether to get things started and the mechanical fuel pump primed. fired right up on ether, died right back out. stabbing the gas pedal and repeating this procedure got me nothing.

figured out it was a bad fuel pump. no volume, no pressure. occasional spurts of gas, but nothing consistent.

went down to the parts store, and bought a Holley blue pump and regulator combo. also grabbed some fuel injection hose, and some fittings from Lowe's and tractor supply.

a couple of hours later, here's what i was looking at:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/Picture1961-1.jpg

when i had wired the car, i had left a lead for an electric fuel pump, just in case i ever wanted to run nitrous. so i didn't even have to wire anything!! i placed it on the rear subframe, inside the torque box bu the front spring hangar. i think I'm going to paint it black, as you can see the shiny of it from some angles walking around the car.
i was warned that they were loud, but unfortunately i did not listen. they are. thankfully, i cant hear it over my 3 inch exhaust or rattles.

i then quickly realized that the regulator in the box is required, not suggested. that left me a dilemma about where to put it that would be clean and neat, as well as adjustable and accessible.

i finally wound up putting the regulator where the mechanical fuel pump lived. as i had to make a block off plate anyway, i got creative. i used 3/8 thick plate, cut to match my fuel pump gasket. drilled and tapped the three regulator bracket mounting holes, used the piece of 5/16 fuel line i cut out as spacers, and some stainless machine screws to hold it all together. i had about 10 foot of 3/8 line left over from pluming a big block new yorker, so i used if for my new metal lines.

here's the finished product.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/Picture1931-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/Picture1941-1.jpg

looked pretty good.
fired right up, and after playing with the Holley yet again, and again....

i ripped the damn thing off. it was a highly modified 850 double pumper. got it instead of some money owed to me. put it on craigslist with a FOR TRADE heading.

i wound up with a brand new, in the box, 750 manual choke edelbrock.

old:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/Picture0892-1.jpg

new:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/Picture1921-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/Picture1911-1.jpg

installed a fuel pressure gauge and spectre fuel line.
it runs and drives a lot better now. I'm down a BUNCH of power, but then again i haven't tuned this carb in yet. its also a manual choke, and i will be converting it to electric.

so now the car runs and drives again. i had previously swapped in a 3.55 gear instead of the old 3.91. so far, all these changes have been positive, and i can actually drive the car now for more than 20minutes without getting a migraine and having to work on it.

about 45 in though, the front intake seal started leaking. now i can change that out. I'm debating getting rid of the single plane for a dual plane while I'm at it. I've already de-tuned it this much, why not more??

also, I'm starting on the rest of the drivability issues.
first thing was safety and handling. the dunlops that were on it were purchased in 2000. they're a little old.

on craigslist, a set of mustang bullitt wheels came available for 175. so i bought them. 17X8, with two usable 255/40/17 tires. i traded the worn out 275/40/17 from the rear for a pair of equally worn out 255/50/17/

these sizes equate to a 1 inch diameter reduction in both ends. for fitment, i had to use 1 inch hub-centric spacers on the rear, longer wheel studs and 3/8 spacers front, and new lug nuts. for a total of 275, i have wheels and tires on my car. and yes, i need new tires for my new wheels and tires. these are for checking for rubbing, handling, etc.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/Picture1951-1.jpg

the next step is to lower the car 1 inch all the way around.
ill currently be doing this via blocks and t-bar cranking, but in the near future i will be getting the hotchkis rear leaves to do it properly.

also, near future plans:
power brakes: already have all the parts, just need to rebuild the, clean them up, and install them.
3 point seat belts
new seats for the front
AC
alignment (tube uppers)
that's the short list right now.

overall goals are a good handling, good looking, great stopping, comfortable, family friendly cruiser.

thanks for looking, and i welcome feedback and suggestions. also, you're welcome to tell me I'm screwing up a perfectly good, fast street car. that's what a couple of my buddies say....


michael

[Hotchkis]

dusterbd13 -

What a lucky man you are to have a sweet car and a smart wife!

Give us a call when you are ready for leaf springs or other suspension upgrades like a-arms or sway bars.

You won't believe the difference in stance and handling, especially if you are driving on lowering blocks now.

You've probably seen our A-body system (http://www.hotchkis.net/search.html?Make=49&Model=1347&SubmitForm=Search) in Car Craft (http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_1007_complete_suspension_upgrade_on_a_1969_pl ymouth_valiant/index.html) or Muscle Car Power.

We recently installed a full system on Kenny Wayne Shepherd's Duster at Picture Car Warehouse.

John met up with Kenny at the PCW shop to discuss the changes.


Z_IvutfA-uA

[dusterbd13]

ive used your products on some past builds of mine. mostly your spring packages. had them on the 64 elcamino, 98 dakota, and a monte carlo. good springs. i like them.

im not currently on the lowering blocks yet. thats coming in a couple of weeks.

the car is currently running a 1 1/8 solid front and 7/8 solid rear sway bar package. i know yours are a larger diameter with differnt mounts, but they are also hollow. what difference in roll stiffness will i see from this?

also, the rear leaves are already on the purchase list, so you wont have to sell me on those. the shocks probably will be too, unless i talk myself into adjustables.

on the UCA's that you offer, what geometry benifits over the other aftermarket control arms are there? all offer better alignment specs, and therefore better handling, but sell me on yours in particular.

and who really sold me on your springs and shocks was not a magazine article, but another customer whom i trust. goes by the andle autoxcuda over on FABO. so you owe him this sale for this car.


on a side note, are someof the products you used to make still availible, even though not listed on the website? you used to offer s10 leaves, but they are no longer listed. same thing for some other trucks.

michael

[dusterbd13]

progress update, and i figure ill start a running tally of expenses. that way, i can shake my head in disgust at how much Ive spent. or, go "cool!! i didn't spend as much as i thought i would!"

wheels and tires, total installed. (need new tires): 275
fuel pump, line, gauge, etc.: 134
intake gaskets: 18

total for this round so far: 427

took the car out for its maiden voyage tonight with the bullitts, etc. runs good with the new fuel system. runs really good. was able to get it sideways in second at 35 by just standing on it. that was after the really, really nasty bog though. gotta get the carb tuned in here soon.

there was no rubbing or anything with the new wheel and tire package. the car did not settle as much as i hoped it would, so i am definitely going to work on the stance. also, the new package made the previous ill handling nature even worse. part of that is tire pressure (didn't check until after my test drive. no two tires are the same.), part of that is the bad alignment, part of that is worn out tires. all needs rectified before putting it through its paces to see how the handling is different.

the intake still leaks. badly. so i drained the oil when i got home, pulled the air cleaner, started disconnecting stuff. tomorrow after my little girl and i get home, I'm going to get the cooling system drained and change the gaskets. I'm thinking about removing the carb spacer while its all apart, as the angle of the carb to throttle linkage bracket, and carb to return spring bracket, are severe. i don't know if i would lose torque and drivability, though. easy enough to see, right?

the family's first planned outing with the car is next weekend to the transportation museum in Spencer, NC. were going to take Mary on the old fashioned steam locomotive, and also enjoy the Plymouth clubs car show. I'm hoping to get the thing cleaned up this week, and some more work done. if i don't make it with this car, well just drive the Subaru.

look for pics Sunday. or not. depends if i get anything picture worthy done.

michael

[dusterbd13]

so, its been a really good day.

this morning, my little girl and i ran some errands and did some yard work. by about 11, i was able to get in the shop. started draining the radiator, disconnecting hoses, electrical, etc. the worst part about the job was the 12 point ARP manifold bolts i used. what was i thinking? had to use all sorts of odd wrenches to get the manifold bolts off and on.



a fresh set of 1213 gaskets, tube of RTV, two rolls of paper towels, and a can of carb cleaner later....



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/Picture2021-1.jpg



pic of the polished lifter valley, indybrock heads, and solid roller

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/Picture2011-1.jpg



pic of the gasket matching on the victor jr.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/Picture2031-2.jpg



pic of it all back together.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/Picture206-1.jpg



cleaned it all up the best i could, but this POR 15 is really stained. when i painted the block this time, it went badly. last one i did, back in high school, never stained, chipped, discolored, etc. i think that i didint mix it properly this time, or stir it enough, or something.

one of these days i will re-do it. probably go hydraulic roller at the same time.



also, i removed the carb spacer. it actually runs much better without it. crisper throttle response, and more power.



treated it to fresh antifreeze, and 7 quarts of 15-50 synthetic mobil1.





after it was back together, my best friend came over to help and hang out. we decided to do the lowering of the car, see where the stance and wheel/tire fitment was.



to lower the rear, i purchased 1 inch aluminum blocks from autozone. 30 bucks, included u-bolts that i didnt need. we had to drill the register for the leaf spring pin a bit deeper, and file down the top locating pin some. about 1 mins worth of modifying the universal blocks. they went in with my old u-bolts, no problem. also, as a benifit, they made my rear sway bar line up better than ever before. my links are actually perpendicular to the arm now.



we turned the front t-bar adjusters 4 full turns each. this resulted at a 1 inch drop at all 4 corners.



it sits right now. also, the is a VERY small scrub over major dips in the road, but only from the right rear corner. plenty fo ground clearance for steep parking lots and speed bumps.



the lowering also had a benifit that i was not expecting. somehow, by some miracle of geometry that should not have happened, it made the car drive better. there is still no stering wheel return, but the turn in is much crisper, the cornering is much more precise, and the car is more stable and less twitchy at hihway speeds and above.



on our test drive, we pulled into the closed dodge dealer here in town to take a picture. its the best o can do right now.



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/Picture2041-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/Picture2051-1.jpg



next purchase will be new tires for these wheels. im looking at the federal 595's. i can get a set for 420 out the door. supposedly a pretty good tire. its actually the spec tire for the legends racers at CMS. my theory is that i dont need a super grippy tire for this car. it just doesnt need it. it needs a quiet, dependable, decent wet weather tire. the federal supposedly will do all that. if anyone has experience with the, please let me know.



thats all for now. grand total at the moment is 457.



michael

[DartorDemon]

So where did you pick up the 1inch hub centric spacer and longer wheel studs? I'm looking to do mustang wheels like that.

[Dukes69]

Great looking Duster! Keep it up.

[dusterbd13]

one inch spacer was orignoally an ebay purchase. i go it from another guy who had bought them and had the axle side register machined for th mopar axle bore. longer wheel studs are ARP from jegs.

thanks for the encouragement.

[Tucks69]

Looks Good Michael. Glad to see you are Driving the car now. Funny how wheels and a stance change can make a car look totally different!

[dusterbd13]

i completely agree.
1 inch different in a few places, big improvement.

and now im looking at the car and thinking about 13 inch 4 whel disc brakes, stripes, scoops, go-wing, blackout hood treatment, and chon spoiler (think high line 71 340 duster)

also thinking about popping the motor out, repainting and re-camming it, swapping to a dual plane, and setting up a valve cover/air clearner setup like the old trans am cudas had. they were 4 barrel at the track, 6 on the street.

michael

[dusterbd13]

well, my daughter brought home a stomach virus that she gave to me, so I've been kind of hit and miss all week.

got my new tires, federal super steel 595. 260 tread wear, ultra-high performance summer. so far, they seem quiet and grippy. ride good (except for the front right wheel, as the rim is somewhat egg shaped). i like the tread pattern and sidewall, and at 408.12, the price was really reasonable.

pics of tires:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/Picture211-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/Picture212-1.jpg

my boss threw me out for coming in sick today. she doesn't want her daughter to get it either, and i cant blame her. so I've been piddling in between bouts of nastiness.

cleaned up the interior for the first time in ages. no armor all, as i hate the way it makes everything greasy. just a good old fashioned damp rag.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/Picture222-1.jpg
and washed it. its funny, but i started out to wash this car a couple of months ago, and wound up starting to redo it. finally got it washed. no wax, and ill say why later.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/Picture213-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/Picture216-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/Picture217-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/Picture219-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/Picture224-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/Picture221-1.jpg

looks pretty good so far. really cleaned up well. (haven't washed it in close to a year and a half. haven't waxed it in two or three....)

i have started on my next two steps of upgrades. brakes, and interior.

on the brakes, I'm going in stages. first is a power brake upgrade. the booster, master, and all the brackets cost me 35. pulled off a 75 valiant 4 door that i could not open any of the doors on due to being fender to fender with other cars at the yard. i ordered new stainless lines from classic tube for 40, and a new check valve for 6 from autozone. so, 81 in the power brake conversion. still have to make sure the booster is good, clean and paint the assembly. I'm thinking black for the booster and brackets, cast iron for the master body, and cast aluminum for the bolt on lid.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/Picture209-1.jpg
stage 2 is going to be 2 piston C5 vette calipers and 13 inch cobra rotors. i see no need to upgrade the rear at this time, as the 11X3 finned drums with semi-metallic shoes do wonderfully.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/Picture210-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/Picture228-1.jpg

then comes the interior. looking first at my unfinished trunk. hoping to start sound deadening this weekend, and then starting to develop my closeout panels.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/Picture227-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/Picture226-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/Picture225-1.jpg

after that ill move into the interior for seats, seat belts, console, etc.


the total for this stage (not including brakes. ill add that when i get them done)
is:
865.12

I'm looking at some exterior mods now, which is why i didn't wax it. I'm thinking the full 71 340 package. stripes, scoops, rear spoiler, blackout hood, and a chin spoiler. ill have to get a photochop done for that before i decide, though.

michael

[dusterbd13]

so, a little bit has happened since the last update.



ive put about 400 miles on the car.



weve done a family trip



my wife gave her input.





the family trip went great. we went to the NC transportation museum in Spencer, NC. spent the day looking at the exhibits, riding the train, and enjoying our time as a family. as luck would hav it, the plymouth club was having a car show there that weekend, so we put the duster in it. didnt win anything, but that wasnt the point. we had a blast.



we also learned a few things about the car, and traveling as a family in it.



1. mary has no leg room in the back seat. with her car seat, her legs are firm up against the seat back on the pass side.

2. theres a lot of noise from the trunk.

3. the turn signals dont work

4. the heater never gets completely closed off.

5. my wife feels uncomfortable with only a lapbelt, and cant wear the fixed shoulder belt because it hits her in the ear.

6. with a full tank of gas, stroller and assorted stuff, and the family, the right rear tire comes into contct with the fender lip



we also had the shifter come apart. the bolts that hold the stick to the box loosened, and one fell out. when i put it back together at home, i cleaned, adjusted, greased, and locktited everything.





all in all, a great outing. i wouldnt trade it for the world.



so ive started working on that list some. as well as my other priorities.



the first one to start on was the trunk, mostly because it annoyed me and i had most of the stuff to do what i wanted to do.



i pulled everything out, cleaned all the metal, and started to sound deaden it. my wife came down to the shop for something, and made the comment about the battery being in a very inconvienient spot for fitting luggage in the trunk. that was all the encouragement i needed. i had been debating moving it over the axle centerline for a little better weight distribution, but couldnt justify it. well, we all know what comes next. the snowball effect.

thankfully, i have plenty of supplies stashed away. like battery cable, wiring, etc. moving the battery to the center of the package tray area allowed me to upgrade my amp wiring, upgrade my MSD power and ground wiring, and free up a lot of trunk space. unfortunately, it also made my current subwoofer enclosure unusable. so im thinking about that, and have something to try before i make a decision.



to lay down the sound deadening, i had a few sheets of the mcmaster carr adhesice backed elastomeric left over from when i did my mazda. so i used it.



heres what the current product looks like:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/Picture2331-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/Picture2341-1.jpg



used a heat gun and a j-roller to get it to fit well.



i also decided while i was in there to finally get a spare tire and jack for the first time since 1998. while i was at beavers honda salvage up in moorseville picking up an engine, i spotted a jack, wrench, and carrier assembly from an 07 civic coupe. had the right measurements according to the tape measure, so i bought it for 35. fits right in, but my spare doesnt. the 235/60/15 i have doesnt fit the wheelwell, and the 255/40/17 sticks up a rediculous amount. so im going to find a donut spare from a 1998 mustang cobra.



heres what im talking about:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/Picture2381-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/Picture2391-1.jpg



theres only about 6 inches from the top of the assmbly to the trunk lid.





also, ive been working on my power brake cnversion. ive got my stainless lines (40)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/Picture2321-1.jpg

and verified that my junkyard booster was good. (35)

im in the process of cleaning up the booster. the master was a 4 wheel drum master, so im going to toss it on the shelf and keep it for if i ever go 4 wheel disc. for the conversion, im going to retain my 1 inch bore manual master. according to my FSM from 1970, manual and power used the same bore master cyl, so i see no reason to change it. an its already paid for!



also, i ordered my new UCA bushings, moog K7103. got them for 52.74 from amazon.com. cheapest o could find them.

after i get the brakes sorted out, ill get those put in.



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/Picture2301-1.jpg



so budget total is 1027.86



next stop is going to be getting the booster in, and finish my trunk.



michael

[Bjkadron]

I just found this thread as well as your other one about suspensions. I haven't had a lot of spare time since school started.

It looks great! It is also really cool to see you using it while spending quality time with your family. Though I am not surprised by your list of complaints. My younger siblings always complain about the lack of legroom in my Duster. Also, I was wondering if rubbing would be an issue when you mentioned it earlier in the thread.

That little jack holder is really sweet! I think I'll have to find one of them.

Your stance and everything looks absolutely amazing!

Your brake upgrades look promising! Are those the mounting brackets for the corvette calipers? Also, why did you decide to go power brakes?

[dusterbd13]

what i dont like about the brakes:
1. hard pedal
2. no initial bite.
3. very non-linear pedal
4. no air in the lines, and everything within spec, but lots of free play at the pedal.


the brackets are for the vette calipers. ill take them and make a plywood tmplate before i mount them so i can have soem more made if necessary.

thanks for all the compliments. check back from time to time to see more updates.

[Bjkadron]

Do you have an adjustable push rod? That should help with the slack. but it wouldn't help everything else.. What size MC do you have?

And if you could measure the brackets fairly accurately I could draw up a set of plans for you so you wouldn't need a plywood template.

[dusterbd13]

or i could send you an accurate plywood template....

my measuring accurately ability leaves some to be desired....time for practice?

[dusterbd13]

last budget total was 1027.86



Ive done a little more work since the last update. some on the list, some not.



on the list, I've continued to work on my trunk. got my bent wheel replaced with one a buddy gave me, and am using the bent as a spare. i really don't like how much room i lose with it.

the mustang spares that i was looking at are going for stupid money. like around 100 bucks in my area. I'm not about to pay that for a donut spare.

i did, however, find that the dodge charger uses a 17X4 spare with the correct bolt pattern. they go for about 35 around here. lot better price. ill find one on a free Saturday morning and see if it will fit.

Ive worked on the audio system some. i tried repositioning the origonal 10 that was in there. i tried two 10's in custom boxes, wired for a 2 ohm stable load. still was not what i was looking for. so i got to thinking about the old JL audio 12 in my truck. it was really too much bass for the little s10, and i had it dialed WAY back for sound quality. so i wired it to my old MOSFET power acoustik amp (may be older than dirt, but its always sounded good, and never let me down) and stuck it in the trunk. had to play with my amp and crossover settings some, but the system is much cleaner and has better sound quality than ever before.



here's what i wound up with. still a work in progress. i thing I'm going to modify my enclosure some so it will clear my battery cables on the passengers side and move it over there. also, I'm starting to mock up for my closeout panels for the trunk.



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/Picture2411-1.jpg



next, I've got my booster completely redone. came out pretty nice for what i started with. not concourse correct, but neither is the car.

spent 7 on paint and tape, 8 in stainless nylock nuts.



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/Picture2421-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/Picture2431-1.jpg



the next project i the tackled was installing the center rear seat belt for Mary's car seat. that was a PITA. i bought a universal lap belt at Pep Boys over in Charlotte for 23. nice webbing and stitching, decent hardware, and i liked the latching operation. i had to enlarge the holes a bunch for using the TTI supplied seat belt anchoring bolts. and their directions for threading the webbing suck. i still have to pull the seat back out, remove the belts, and adjust them a bit before its usable. i run out of adjustment before Mary's seat is fully tight. they blend in though, and i tuck them back into the gap between the seat back and seat bottom when not in use.



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/Picture2451-1.jpg



while i was installing the belt, i figured i would check out the noisy rear end. i found a couple of things that worry me.

1. a LOT of play in the rear u-joint (think 1/8 inch rotational)

2. debris build up on the fill plug in the hogshead



i haven't drained the hogshead yet, but am planning on doing the drain plug mod found here. http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/drivetrain/mopp_0912_installing_a_drain_plug_in_the_different ial_housing/index.html

any opinions on this?



for the u-joint, i originally thought i could get away with just putting a new one in. last time i put joints in this car was the late 90's. 2 motors ago, 2 rears ago, and a lot of abuse ago.

the new ten dollar joint rotated in the yoke. a lot. so i called my drive shaft guy, who told me that its a common problem. he also informed me that i would need to bring the shaft down to have him re-balance it and weld on a new yoke. so 140 later, i have this:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/Picture2401-2.jpg



i also spent 7 on new straps, figuring that its cheap insurance as they were done the last time i put a u-joint in the thing.



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/Picture2441-2.jpg



on the debris end, I'm going to change the fluid and keep an eye on it. hopefully my noise will go away. if it doesn't, I'm researching doing a ford explorer 8.8 with 3.55 trak lok, rear disc, etc. ill go that route before dumping a bunch of money in my 8.75



lastly, i got center caps. a guy at the mopar show on our last family trip said that chain link fence post caps would slide right in and look cool. he was only partly right. i had to cut about 3/8 inch off every one, and put seven wraps of vinyl tape on the flange for a good friction fit. but they do fit, and they do look good. at 1.37 ea, i was willing to try.



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/Picture2471-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/Picture2461-1.jpg



so all this work totals up to:

1228.34



man this adds up quick.....



next trip is in a couple of weeks to banner elk, NC, for the woolly worm festival and driving part of the blue ridge parkway during leaf season.

the weekend after that is out 10 year high school reunion. were taking the car. I'm looking forward to showing up to my old high school in the same car that i drove through those years, but it looking a lot better.



anyway, that's it for now. this weekend I'm working on readjusting the seat belt and getting our Subaru running again.



michael

[Bjkadron]

Looks like you are making good progress!

A couple of things.
If you want just send me the template that would work fine. Just make sure it fits perfectly! since it is basically a gage part. So it needs to be pretty much perfect. And Actually I can measure super accurately if I have something to measure so that might work better. Though I can make changed to the drawing after I finish it.

The dodge charger/challenger/lx body does NOT share the same bolt pattern. It is close enough to physically fit on ht e studs but is isn't correct. About 1.5 MM off.

The Diff drain seems like a good idea.. but just make sure it wont shear off if you go over a weird bump or something. Also if you want to jack it up you might consider stitch welding on a metal "protector ring" of sorts around it to protect it.

Cool idea on the center caps.

Keep up the good work!

[dusterbd13]

im actually starting to look for a recessed socket style plug for the drain for just that reason.

theres a few guys running the LX platform wheels on the older cars with no trouble, so im thinking the spare should be fine.

[Bjkadron]

im actually starting to look for a recessed socket style plug for the drain for just that reason.

theres a few guys running the LX platform wheels on the older cars with no trouble, so im thinking the spare should be fine.

Yeah, I would go with something with an allen head like a pipe plug.
Like this: https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/sunbrite_2124_4939630-1.jpg

For a spare it shouldn't mess anything up. I just wouldn't run it for the actual bolt pattern.

[dusterbd13]

well, another month and 600 miles (can you tell I'm really starting to enjoy driving this car?)

the weekend before the woolly worm festival, i had to go to Columbia SC and help a friend move. figured it was a nice day, and it would be a good shakedown run. (Columbia is 160 miles each way, all interstate). all things considered, it was a successful trip. the car hadn't left my state in over a decade, or really gone on any trips further than 50 miles each way since the resto. so, to put this into prospective: it was mostly untested, with a lot of used parts and "good enough" stuff.

i had some issues.

on the trip down, the wind whistle from the passengers side window about drove me nuts.
when i finally got there, one of my center caps popped off in the parking lot. just laying there by the car.
i lost left rear brake light, all exterior lighting, and charging system.
on the trip home, the axle got very, very, very noisy.
i figured out my trip odometer in the autometer speedo is not accurate. it changes anytime you turn the car off.

so, i was kinda bummed by all the problems my shakedown run revealed. left it parked for a couple of weeks while i went to the woolly worm festival, worked around the house, and went to my 10 year high school reunion.

When i diagnosed the rear axle noises, it became apparent that the wheel bearings were bad, and that the ring gear is what is making the router noises. i played with the idea of the 8.8 rear axle from the explorer. was actually starting to pull one down at pull-a-part. the truth of the matter is, i just couldn't bring myself to do it. i may have issues with my 8.75, but its the origonal axle housing to the car, and it actually has sentimental value to me.

the wheel bearings were the first thing to fix. i figured since they are the green type, if they fail i may have an axle come out of the car, with tire attached. no bueno.

after looking, and looking, and looking, i found jegs to have the cheapest price at 88.72 shipped. not bad.
spent a half day putting them in, and playing around in the ship.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Picture265-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Picture260-1.jpg

the axle bearings alone reduced my noise by 60%. now all that's left is the pissed off router that appears any time its under acceleration load. gets really bad at highway speeds. so I'm saving my money to have that rebuilt.

also, i was able to find a spare from a charger. its a 17 inch donut, that clears everything perfectly. paid 28.34 from parker motors in oakboro.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Picture2611-1.jpg

to make my spare tire jack tray fit some better, I've started cutting on it. I'm hoping to get it to be a low enough profile to barely come above the trunk floor.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Picture2841-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Picture2861-1.jpg

Ive readjusted the passengers side window, and it has reduced the whistling by 50%. also, i shimmed the weatherstripping using some double sided moulding tape i had left over from my s10. little 1/8 thick tape made an incredible difference.
i couldn't figure out how to take an interesting picture of an adjusted window, so i didn't.

the center cap issue happened because when the tape shrank when it got hot. pulled half of it right off the one side of the cap. to fix this issue, i bonded some small sections of mountain bike inner tube to the cap. took two layers to get a good fit.

I've already shortened Mary's seat belt as well. have i mentioned that the pep-boys belt is a PITA?

the car is now up for the electrical and body work. i have the front bench out, and the dash all torn apart. found a couple of my crimps had come loose on my dash lights, had a bad weatherpack terminal on my turn signal/brake light connector, and a bad headlight switch. still haven't figured out the charging system, ut I'm leaning towards a loose connection in the bulkhead connector.

next up, ill take pictures of this stuff, and finish it up.

current total is.....
1345.40

michael

[Bjkadron]

I can cure my wind whistles to up to well over 80mph just by rolling up the window all the way then giving it a extra touch of a turn. If that makes sense.

Good call on keeping the 8 3/4. The only reason I am going with the 8.8 is that I don't have one. That and I can't afford one.

[montessaj]

I really like reading the updates on your car. Keep up the good work!

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Subscribed as Im sure this will be a great thread with great info and a budget of some sort which I can afford..

[dusterbd13]

pictures from this weekend.



Friday, i went over to a friend of mines place. he runs a body shop. I do all his electrical work on the street rods/hot rods, (wired a 50 new yorker convertible, just fixed a lot of hacks on a 57 chevy convertible, waiting on him to drop off a 69 mach 1) and he sends me business.



well the 57 was warranty work. he had another guy wire it before him and i started working together, and needless to say it was a hack job. really quite scary. so i patched the worst of it, fixed the vintage air, and generally tidied and tightened everything up for him. in return, he helped me out some on the duster and put a back bumper on my Subaru. we both came out of this car happy.



on the duster, Bill cut my rear fender lips to keep them from rubbing, as well as touched up all my nicks and scratches. he also repainted all my under hood bolts from where they chipped when i assembled the car.

he cut a total of 1/2 inch from the fender lips by the way, leaving me about 1/4 between the tire sidewall and the fender. and it doesn't even look like it was cut at all.



pass side:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Picture2921-1.jpg

drivers side

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Picture2931-1.jpg



fender bolt touch up:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Picture2901-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Picture2911-1.jpg



i also spent most of the day working on the electrical.

pulled the bench, the e-brake lever, fuse panel, column cover, fresh air vent, and amp to get to the connections i need to re-do in the dash. also was able to swap my headlight switch out under warranty at advance. hopefully this week ill get some time to get all that back together, and start on figuring out my intermittent connection problems at the bulkhead.



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Picture2871-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Picture2941-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Picture288-1.jpg



and i didn't realize how bad my carpets were until now. i may pull them out soon and re-dye them.



budget remains the same.



michael

[csx4766]

Really like this thread. You are making great progress and love how you are tracking cost as you go along.

[dusterbd13]

i had some time Friday and Saturday to work on the car some.



started out by re-installing the headlight switch, after putting some electrical contact goo on it. tightened down the wiper switch that had worked loose as well. i also re-crimped all my connections under the dash. when i wired this car, i had used some really nifty ratcheting crimping pliers. apparently, sometime in the middle of the car, they had crapped out. half the crimps were plenty tight, half were able to be pulled apart with minimal force. so, while they were accessible, i redid them.



when i reinstalled the fuse panel, i re-made the mount, as the toe pf my boot always hit the circuit breaker for the lighting system when i power shifted. the new mount is a good 2 inches higher than before. the tail light and turn signal problem turned out to be bad connections in the weather pack between the column and dash harnesses. i cut it out, as the nearest place that has readily available small quantities of weather pack terminals is 40 miles away. also, the weather packs took up a LOT of real estate under there. i used a 9 pin "Power connector" from the black bins at radio shack. 9 bucks for the male and female sides. I've used these for a lot of aftermarket stereo installs into muscle cars, gauge clusters, etc. they work really well after you tweak the pins a hair for good connection. out of the package, only about 3/4 make good contact. but they're small, readily available, and cheap.



with the dash wiring out of the way, i moved onto other things.



one thing to remember before the next part. i built/assembled this car in a thrash to finish before my wedding. needless to say, i didn't make it. came close, but got taken out by a car accident. i finished the car shortly after being married, when time and money were extremely short. needless to say, I'm finding some things that should not have been done the way they were, or at all. also finding things that i should have noticed during assembly, but die to being in a hurry, i didn't.



i did a nut and bolt check while i was around the interior. most interior screws i got about 1/2 turn on. i found that the steering column bolts i got about 2 turns out of, and 3/4 of the door hinge bolts were barely touching the sheet metal.



after i got done with this, and got everything i had taken out of the dash put back together, i vacuumed the carped hoping it would help.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Picture3061-1.jpg



it didn't.



pulled it out to vacuum it again and hit it with a leaf blower to get all the sand out that my shop vac didn't.



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Picture307-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Picture3081-1.jpg



still did not help.

the carpets were purchased in 1996 at the metrolina swap meet for a total of 96 bucks. they may have fit better if i had known what i was doing back then, but they have always fit badly since i installed them. now, in addition, they are stained, have a few holes, are faded, and are getting a bit fuzzy from age. after realizing that I've got bigger fish to fry financially right now (rear axle, seat belts, etc), and that if i go with a T5 ill need to change them anyway, i went with the budget alternative.

i learned this while flipping some cars during college.



vacuumed the carpets again.

cut the strings, fuzzies, etc off of them. started putting repeated dustings on them with a can of Dupli-color vinyl and fabric dye. after a few dustings, they looked pretty even on color. so i waited for the paint to dry, and brushed them down with a stiff bristled brush. helps to break up the painted fibers and make it look more factory. more needed on the cut pile versus loop carpet, but i did it anyway.



here's what they looked like afterwards (7 dollars and an hour later)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Picture3131-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Picture3141-1.jpg

i wouldn't go so far as to call them great, but i will say that they are good enough.



before reinstalling them, i looked to the foil backed jute job i did.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Picture3091-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Picture310-1.jpg



why i didn't go up the toe boards, i don't remember. probably ran out of materials, or was worried about it showing above the carpets.

so, 15 dollars of 3M spray adhesive, and a 20.99 roll of foil backed jute from pep-boys in Charlotte later, i covered the toe boards. my wife came down and helped with this, as i suck with fabrics and such.



i didn't take any pictures before carpet re-install, so here's after reassembly.



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Picture3161-1.jpg



put the amp back in (an old audiovox rampage amp i traded a pack of smokes for in 2001 while i was working at a gas station). took the time to tune in my gain frequencies and crossover points. sounds a lot better from the kick panel speakers now.



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Picture3151-1.jpg



Then i put the front bech back in, and put in Mary's car seat to double check the belt. belt is just right this time. (third try)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Picture3181-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Picture3171-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Picture3191-1.jpg



i also started messing with getting my hood springs and splash shields in. used the springs from the hood hinges on a dodge daytona, as i read in another guys thread that that is what he used for his AAR hood. unfortunately, i am not as successful as him. i mounted them just like his picture, but they do not hold the hood up at all. they are only pre-loaded about 1/2 turn, so i think i may need to preload them more. which to do so will require me pulling the hood and hinges.



here's pics of the attempt.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Picture3121-1.jpg



and my refinished splash shields that never made in in during the resto.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Picture3111-1.jpg



took the family out to dinner Saturday night just to try it out. all the lights work properly, the gauges are more accurate and stable, there is less engine noise in the interior, and less squeaks and rattles.



also, we put a full tank of gas, Jenn, and Mary in the back seat, then went over some nasty dips in the road. the tires hit the wheel wells about the same time that the axle hits the bump stops.no fender contact though. YAY!!!



Jenn says its still too loud, though.











i guess you cant make her happy all the time.....



total as of now: 1397.39



more later, after i get some more time. got to pull the hood next for the springs, bulkhead connector, and booster.

[Bjkadron]

Great progress!

[dusterbd13]

if y'all cant tell, Friday nights are my nights in the shop. that's why i gibe an update at the end of the week most weeks. its my time to decompress and relax, as i have a pretty stressful job.



Tuesday night i went out to dinner for Mexican with a couple of buddies of mine form out of town. got to talking cars, marriage, religion, politics, etc. before this, we were helping Dallas clean some of his stuff out of his parents barn. while we were cleaning, we turned up a partial nitrous kit. solenoids and plate. Dustin, my other buddy, said that he had an MSD timing retard, bottle, and some other nitrous stuff that he had yanked off an old mustang coupe. so i paid for both their dinners in exchange for the nitrous stuff that they had. Mexican came up to a total of 40 bucks.

all I've managed to pick up so far is the plate and solenoids. Dustin's going in for hernia surgery next week, so when I'm over helping him out around the house ill grab the other stuff.



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Picture3261-1.jpg



Last night i pulled the hood off the duster, and put the front end up on stands so i could pull the wheels. Took a picture of the front end, just for reference later when i finish tweaking it.



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Picture3241-1.jpg



i then pulled the carb off for a little tweaking. installed an electric choke kit, and went a little richer with the metering rods. well see how it works when its back on the ground.

on the edelbrock parts, you'd think that for 106 bucks they'd send you a copy of there tuning guide. on the choke, you'd think that they'd use decent hardware and tap the holes for you. they don't. took me an hour just to do the choke.



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Picture3221-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Picture3231-1.jpg



i then moved on to the brake booster install. its funny, i started the process of upgrading the brakes months ago, and only managed to buy, clean, and paint parts. never got them on. i did buy a reman master, as the one that came with my booster assembly was for drums, and the manual cylinder was running out of fluid on full brake pedal depression. the reman unit came out at 24.67 with my commercial discount at autozone.



here's the parts shortly before install. you'll see in the picture a carter AFB that i just finished rebuilding. its going on Dustin's 331 powered 280Z project. really neat carb once i got inside of it. i have 20 bucks in it, and that's including a bigger accelerator pump, high flow needle and seats, blending in the venturis, etc. came out of Dallas's' barn as well. rebuilt it in exchange for my rear disc setup, which ill get pictures of when i pick it up.



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Picture3251-1.jpg



spent a while getting it all in. when i backed the car into he shop, i didn't pull far enough away from the workbench to open the drivers door fully. made it VERY difficult to get the brake push rod bolt out. after about an hour, though, the old manual setup was laying on the bench. put the new booster on, and decided that it is stable enough not to need any of the support brackets. (honestly, i cant figure out where they're supposed to go to, either. been way too long since I've pulled the unit.)



put my classic tube stainless lines in the prop valve after re bending them to make them clear the firewall, and installed the master. only got it bench bled last night, as my bleeder setup wont work on his type of master. have to get help from Jenn this week.



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Picture3291-1.jpg



then, i decided to play with the nitrous a little bit. i want a really clean install, and one that is almost unnoticeable. mounted the solenoids to the back of the carb, and plate underneath. using the same wiring lead that i had hooked up for my line lock to activate the solenoids. this will be operated by the old cuda flasher witch in the dash.



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Picture3271-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Picture3281-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Picture3311-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Picture3321-1.jpg



and one with the air cleaner on, just to prove that its hidden.



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Picture3301-1.jpg



ill be blacking out all the lines, probably by placing them inside of rubber hoses. that ought to finish the deception.



also worked on the hood hinges. now have the hood springs pre-loaded one full turn. well see if its too stiff or not for the glass hood.



grand total as of this weekend:

1568.06



finished out last night by working on getting the truck detailed so i can finally sell it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Picture3331-1.jpg





thanks for looking, and feedback, both positive and negative, is always appreciated. (helps to keep me motivated.)

[srh3trinity]

Another great build thread. The Duster is cool. Can't believe you are selling the truck. That is one of my favorite builds. Reminded me of the history of hot rodding. Combination of vision, inegnuity, hard work and parts that came together to make a better vehicle, and the money that you invested (or lack thereof) was impressive.

[dusterbd13]

iv got a limit on how many cars i can have at my place. (imposd by my wife.) ireally, really, really want a 64 elcamino. so the truck has to go for 6000, or trade, i figure its a good deal. ive loved that truck, and wasa blast to buid and run, but its time to move on a bit.

the budget theme ive always had is taking a little dieviation for this project. i usually subtract the parts i seell frojm the total, but this time i dont think its fair as im starting with a complete car. so im budgeting his one to show what it takes to make an older restoratin come up to standard for pro-touring.

thanks for the compliments and encouragemnet. ive needed that after this week. nice to see appreciation of your hard work.

michael

[Bjkadron]

Very nice! I love the hidden Nitrous! Also, Do you hook your breather line up to your air cleaner box or just leave it hanging like that?

[dusterbd13]

its usually hooked up. just didnt for that pic

[dusterbd13]

so a month has gone by without an update. between the holidays, work, family, etc i haven't had much of a chance to mess with the car. o have gotten a little time here and there to tinker.



found the problem with my power brake conversion: something in the booster had gone bad, causing it to lock up when vacuum was applied. so 97 bones later, i had another one on order from my local advance. (they beat everyone else's price) shot some clear on it to keep that nice bare steel look it had going on.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/Picture3851-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/Picture3841-1.jpg

also, notice the prop rod is finally gone! wound up pre-loading the hood hinge springs 1 full turn to get the right tension for the fiberglass hood.

once the brakes were working properly, i went to fire it up for a test drive. and smelled gas.

turned out that the regulator mount had vibrated one of the screws out that held the regulator on, causing the bracket to crack by the other screw. this allowed the brass fittings to smack against the block, causing them to leak. advance honored the one year warranty on the holley parts, and got me a new regulator, bracket, and screws under warranty. cool. also raided my coffee can of fitting to do away with the crush sleeve brass ones that were on there. i don't like having more rubber on the car, but for right now it works. maybe next fall when i pull the motor for the oil pan gasket and a fresh coat of color ill fix it.



so then i went on a test drive. the throttle hung on me, and i could not get it to idle at any LESS than 4500 RPM. couldn't get it fixed on the side of the road, so i limped it back home. pretty scary ride through the neighborhood....



what happened was that the 4 hole carb gasket used when i put the nitrous plate on was smaller than the throttle plates on the eddy carb. the butterflies went through the holes out, but wouldn't come back in. THAT one took me a while to figure out.



so today i had to run some errands for the wife (and decompress after a rough week at work) and decided to try it again. after adjusting the choke and setting the idle, she ran great. didn't leave my block until i KNEW it wouldn't hang up again. then i ran some errands, and went for some alone time at the top of morrow mountain. while i was up there, i snapped a couple of pictures. dont mind the car, its filthy.



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/Picture3831-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/Picture3781-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/Picture3821-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/Picture3861-1.jpg



gotta say the car ran and stopped great.



budget total is 1665.06



michael

[MoparCar]

Awesome! Love your car, project and budget. Drive the wheels off of it!
Wes

[Bjkadron]

Nice! I had my throttle hang up on me the other day too, Luckily mine was a bit easier to diagnose, and my car makes a bit less power than yours. Looks good! have fun driving it!

[Bryce]

That cars looks great! Almost makes we want to build a duster next.

[csx4766]

Love the thread. Well its great when a plan finally comes together and everthing finally works like it should. Happy Holidays.

[dusterbd13]

Life around my house can get a little hectic at times, not leaving me much time to play with cars. that, and sometimes id rather hang out with my wife and daughter that go down in my unheated shop.



but i do have an update. sort of.



a few weeks ago, Dustin and I went to the pull-a-part in Winston Salem for some much needed guy road trip time. we also needed a couple of parts for some various DD stuff.



whenever i go to a junkyard, i always eyeball the 2 door cars, looking for leather buckets in good shape that may look right and be comfortable for the duster. I've never found a set that really did it for me. usually i look for stuff in the import and GM sections (were i normally spend most my time at the boneyard, because of my dailys)

this time, i went to the ford section because of Dustin. spent WAY too much time in there stripping an early 80's courier. so i got bored, and started looking at ford seats. lo and behold, a clean black on black 1994 Lincoln mark VII was getting unload off the forklift as i was wondering around. looked in it, and it had a set of mint black leather seats. so i sat in it (and fell asleep). yup, comfortable. yup, power every which way. yup, fold forward. so we decided to pull them. If you do this as well, i will warn you, find a way to power them in the junkyard. it took us almost 4 hours to get them out with what hand tools we had due to the inside rear bolt location. you could only get 1/4 flat at a time.



but, they were only 46.72 for the pair.



these seats were also at the furthest point of pull-a-part from my truck, so i found out just how heavy they are.



tonight, we were rebuilding a carb for the next project (stay tuned, its an AMC), and decided while i had an extra set of hands to uncover the duster and pull the bench. we also threw the Lincoln buckets in, just to make sure i liked the size and shape in the car. remember, these are literally sitting on the floor, not even squared or shimmed. also with all the adjustments set wherever they were when the battery was pulled from the Lincoln. but i already dig them in the car.



heres pics, and will post more when the swap is finished. then, on to seat belts, alignment stuff, and autocrosses this summer.



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/Picture418-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/Picture414-2.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/Picture412-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/Picture416-1.jpg



budget total: 1711.78

[dusterbd13]

so I've spent a little time over the last week working on the duster.



first order of business was getting the seats fit and wired into the car. decided that id start with the drivers side, as that's the most important for comfort and fit. (makes sense, as I'm the ONLY person that drives this thing.)



when i started out, the seat was awfully high in the front, causing some discomfort between me, the roof, the steering wheel, and the clutch pedal. i had it lowered as much as i could. heres what the stock Lincoln mount looked like:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/Picture415-1.jpg



i used the back mounting hole for the bench seat to base things off of. put a spare carriage bolt through the back outboard Lincoln mount point and the factory hole. that's how the seat was sitting in that picture.

wound up figuring out that the front leg of the seat was not sitting flush to the contours of the floor pan, and that if i trimmed it a bit, it would allow the front edge of the seat to drop dramatically, alleviating most of the fitment problems.



so i got out the harbor freight sawzall that my old boss gave me for Christmas one year (my good craftsman was broken by my brother, and i haven't fixed it yet) and started a cuttin'.



heres what i wound up with.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/Picture421-1.jpg



now i have a lot more clearance at all the tight spots. just about perfect seat bottom angle as well, and that's with the tracks all the way bottomed out in their travel.



this is when i started to over think things and screwed up.



when doing this, never try to use a tape measure and estimate the center line of the car. wound up moving the whole seat 1.5 inches towards the door, and mounting it there. seemed good in the garage, so i took it up the road for a test. it just didn't sit right. was offset to the steering wheel, which made my hips twist on the pedals, etc. went back to the shop, and tried the bench mounting point again. only put the one bolt in it, as i already had a couple of spare holes in the floor pan now.

went back up the road, and it fit me like a glove. so, i figure the few holes now count as weight reduction.



i took the car down to troy, up through the uwharries, and back home. before i even got the rest of the install completed, i knew it was the best money and time I've spent on the car in a long time. i also knew that i had a few new problems to contend with.

problem 1. when i was adjusting the seat, i heard something sound like it was cracking, and my front component speakers stopped working. apparently the seat motors and the amp were attempting to occupy the same space at the same time now, and the seat won. dammit.....

problem 2. i have no cup holder. for the last 16 years, I've been putting my coffee cup in between my side and the armrest on the bench. fit great and NEVER spilled.

problem 3. i lost my armrest



all solvable.



first though, i had to finish installing the seats.

drilled the new front mounting hole for the door side, and moved on to the inside. the tracks on that side needed to come up a hair in the back, and a bunch in the front. for the back, i used a steel wheel lug nut from an 86 dodge diplomat as a spacer. the tapered side fit perfect in the ford mounting hole, and it leveled the seat out to .1 degree at the back. to get the front the same, i wound up using 1/8 wall 1X1 square tubing to make a spacer. length of 1.75 inches.

also, made some floor washers/seat reinforcements out of some 1/4 plate i had laying around. 3X3 squares with a hole drilled in them. also, for hardware, i used some carriage bolts i had bought down at Lowe's with nylock nuts. total in hardware was 5.86

to power the seats, i had left a 20 amp lead in my harness along the door sills for eventual power windows or locks. so i pulled those over to where the seats were to power the seats.

to fix my amp problem, i wired the components directly to the head unit. they actually sound better now that they're not powered by the old audiovox amp.

also learned that after powering the passengers side seat, it has a micro-switch in it. when you tilt the seat back forward for rear seat access, it automatically slides the seat forward with the electric adjusters. when you put it back upright, it goes back to exactly where it was set before. really nice unexpected feature. thanks ford!



heres pics of both seats mounted, and the mounts i made. (both seats mounted the same way, with the same hardware and measurements)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/Picture422-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/Picture419-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/Picture420-1.jpg



after i got done with the seats, i went back to the trunk. i permanently mounted the amp and subwoofer enclosure, as i dint want them sliding around at high rates of lateral acceleration. use #10 screws and fender washers up through the trunk floor to mount the sub box, and some s10 screws with captured washers to mount the amp. all these parts came out of my magic bolt box.



last on the list is my news of the week:

I'm going autocrossing with this car and my dad on Sunday. Tarheel Sports Car Club is having their test and tune day down at Maxton, and its time to see what this old girl can really do. I'm excited. hopefully ill have some time to get the carb fine tuned between now and then.



total is 1717.64



stay tuned, ill have action shots good lord willing.



michael

[Bjkadron]

Very nice!

[Bullockracing]

Sweet ride - I sure miss my '73 Duster... It was my second car, and I loved it! Not near as nice as yours, but in my mind I pictured that it would be one day...

[dusterbd13]

long day, so this may be somewhat incoherent.



short version for those that don't like to read: the autocross was great. had a blast, and was quicker than dad.



left out this morning at 7AM, chasing the sun. nice drive down to Maxton, NC. about 1.5 hours each way. light traffic, highway sparkling in the sunrise, good air, great tunes on the radio. we got there as they were still setting up. registration and tech was a breeze, and we ran into a couple of guys we knew. also a bunch of guys that just wanted to check out the bright red duster with the nasty exhaust note.



drivers meeting was at 10AM, and we did the novice course walk. during that, we realized just how bad the track surface was. LOTS of sand/gravel. also, very rough as far as chuckholes, etc.



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/Picture424-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/Picture427-1.jpg



dad had the recommendation that we tape the car to protect the paint. so, we begged/borrowed/bought 4 rolls of 1 inch wide painters tape. took about 30 minutes of the first 1 hour run session to do it, but I'm grateful that we did.



over the course of the day, i got somewhere in the neighborhood of 40 runs in. only thing i did to the car was check the fluids and torque the lug nuts. just wanted to get a feel for where i was starting from.



the last session, i started "timing" the field. since this was a test and tune session, there was no timing equipment set up. so i used my CD player, where it read the seconds into a song. started the song when a car left the line, looked at the time when it crossed the finish. the RX8's and Mini coopers were running 28-30 seconds. dad was running 31-34 seconds. i was running 29-30 pretty consistently.



the car has a few kinks to get worked out. under-steer is fairly significant when its not under throttle, it runs rich, there's no turn in, i flop around inside like a drunken fish, and fuel slouches down the car from the filler neck, even with only 1/2 tank. its geared right, plenty responsive to throttle, and an absolute HOOT out there. i was actually running up to 50 at some points on the track.



heres pics, to prove that it happened.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/Picture425-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/Picture426-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/Picture428-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/Picture430-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/Picture433-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/Picture437-1.jpg



michael

[Bryce]

Awesome!!!!

[dusterbd13]

had a little time in the shop tonight, and a little space now that the s10 has been paid for and is gone.



a while back, my rear end began to get very, very noisy. like a very amplified, very pissed off handheld plunge router. used to be that any throttle over 55 would get it to howling. after maxton, any speed with load made it howl, from idle on up. i got a quote from a local shop that does most of our drive train work for 600 bucks max, and that was with gears, clutches, bearings, everything. fair enough. more than i really WANT to spend, but.....



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/Picture463-1.jpg



also started redoing the front suspension. plans are to go to 3/8 taller FMJ spindles for better negative camber gain, and offset UCA bushings for better alignment specs. I'm thinking of going with the recommended specs from hotchkis, which are -1.5 camber, +7 caster, and 1/16 toe in.

to get there, other than the offset bushings, i had heard reference in some older forum posts about using spacers between the lower ball joint and spindle. plans are to do about .25 inch spacers for my alignment numbers.

while i have the front apart, id like to make sure things are as right as they can be. to that end, I'm planning on adjusting the strut rods to where there is minimal bind, checking these crappy ADDCO mounts to make sure they are not binding, and setting the t-bar ride heights equally without the sway bar attached this time. also fixing the ackerman by getting the tie rod ends the same length as one another. anything else I'm missing in the general tune up and
optimization?



the spindles are already purchased from a mid 80's M-body that had only 54000 miles on it (and it was at pull-a-part!)



heres a pic to show the height difference.



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/Picture459-1.jpg



assuming this works as i think it will, ill be selling the a-body pieces to offset some cost.



got the passengers side torn down tonight for the most part.



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/Picture460-1.jpg



and my growing pile of removed parts

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/Picture462-1.jpg



this Sundays Ill finish getting the drivers side taken apart.



Tuesday i have a half day at work. ill be dropping my UCA's off to get the bushings pressed (i could do it, but for the 30 bucks it will cost me, its worth the money for me not to have to) and my hogshead off at the drive line guys.



hoping to get it all back together in time to make the Sanford autocross next month.



cost as of tonight is still the same.



michael

[Bjkadron]

the car has a few kinks to get worked out. under-steer is fairly significant when its not under throttle, it runs rich, there's no turn in, i flop around inside like a drunken fish, and fuel slouches down the car from the filler neck, even with only 1/2 tank. its geared right, plenty responsive to throttle, and an absolute HOOT out there. i was actually running up to 50 at some points on the track.
michael




also started redoing the front suspension. plans are to go to 3/8 taller FMJ spindles for better negative camber gain, and offset UCA bushings for better alignment specs. I'm thinking of going with the recommended specs from hotchkis, which are -1.5 camber, +7 caster, and 1/16 toe in.

to get there, other than the offset bushings, i had heard reference in some older forum posts about using spacers between the lower ball joint and spindle. plans are to do about .25 inch spacers for my alignment numbers.

while i have the front apart, id like to make sure things are as right as they can be. to that end, I'm planning on adjusting the strut rods to where there is minimal bind, checking these crappy ADDCO mounts to make sure they are not binding, and setting the t-bar ride heights equally without the sway bar attached this time. also fixing the ackerman by getting the tie rod ends the same length as one another. anything else I'm missing in the general tune up and
optimization?


michael

Did you get stiffer torsion bars? I forget. If you did, this might be where some of your understeer is coming from. The roll resistance should be higher in the rear or less in the front than it currently is to help that. But I wouldn't change it a lot until after you have the front done as that will change things. With the stock type UCA's I would shoot for more like -1.5 camber, 3.5-4* caster, and same toe. If you have to sacrifice one, I would sacrifice a little caster to get the camber. Also, with the spacers, you will be changing the scrub radius and increasing stress on everything. So the thinner the better there. With the 1/4 spacers you would be getting a bit over 2* change. Shocks will help the turn in also. As will getting the slop out of the steering system. Everything else sounds good. Great progress!

[Tucks69]

Duster looked good on the autocross course! When are they going to have another track day? I am about 30 minutes from Maxton.

[dusterbd13]

Did you get stiffer torsion bars? I forget. If you did, this might be where some of your understeer is coming from. The roll resistance should be higher in the rear or less in the front than it currently is to help that. But I wouldn't change it a lot until after you have the front done as that will change things. With the stock type UCA's I would shoot for more like -1.5 camber, 3.5-4* caster, and same toe. If you have to sacrifice one, I would sacrifice a little caster to get the camber. Also, with the spacers, you will be changing the scrub radius and increasing stress on everything. So the thinner the better there. With the 1/4 spacers you would be getting a bit over 2* change. Shocks will help the turn in also. As will getting the slop out of the steering system. Everything else sounds good. Great progress!
still running the .89 t-bars. no plans currently to go stiffer, though the shocks are on the list. i may go 1/8-3/16 spacers, depends on what i find to make my spacers from. i do know that the scrub radiaus will be adverly effected, but i think that it will be so minimal as to be unnoticible.
also, the spindle to ball joint bolts are 1 inch diameter hardened steel. that, with the amount of support that they recive from the castings, makes me not worried about it. i will,m however, be keeping an eye on it. the guys over at mopax have pretty much convinced me this is the way to go for where im trying to get.
as far as the caster measurements, im hoping with the offset UCA bushings, shimmed spindles, and well sorted rest of it to be getting into the range that i want. 7 is pretty agressive, and may gove too heavy a steering feel with my FFI stage 3 box, but thats why its called fine tuning, right?


Duster looked good on the autocross course! When are they going to have another track day? I am about 30 minutes from Maxton.
down in rockingham? im 45 minutes from you! i lie up the way in albemarle.
hoping to run with tarheel over in sanford next month, but the way work is right now im not holding my breath. doing my side work (wiring and vettes) is either feast or famine, and right now is feast. i dont have a free saturday until sometiome in april.

web site for tarheel is
http://www.thscc.com/general/info/calendar.php

they run a great event. great guys, good courses, good fellowship, and great organization. i prefer to run with them over central carolinas SCCA.

michael

[Bjkadron]

still running the .89 t-bars. no plans currently to go stiffer, though the shocks are on the list. i may go 1/8-3/16 spacers, depends on what i find to make my spacers from. i do know that the scrub radiaus will be adverly effected, but i think that it will be so minimal as to be unnoticible.
also, the spindle to ball joint bolts are 1 inch diameter hardened steel. that, with the amount of support that they recive from the castings, makes me not worried about it. i will,m however, be keeping an eye on it. the guys over at mopax have pretty much convinced me this is the way to go for where im trying to get.
as far as the caster measurements, im hoping with the offset UCA bushings, shimmed spindles, and well sorted rest of it to be getting into the range that i want. 7 is pretty agressive, and may gove too heavy a steering feel with my FFI stage 3 box, but thats why its called fine tuning, right?

michael

Ok, I didn't think you had upgraded the bars. Overly stiff Front (when compared to the rear) roll rate is just one of the things that could cause understeer. You might consider getting/making subframe connectors. Because if the chassis isn't stiff enough to transmit the loads then any tuning would have minimal effect. Sounds good otherwise.. can't wait to see how it works.

[dusterbd13]

so, i spent a few hours on it last night, and she fought me EVERY step of the way.

earlier this week, i got the other side torn down, and the new Moog offset UCA bushings pressed in (cost 35, not 30. money well spent. if anyones local, go down to Mabry's automotive. the guy is GREAT to work with.)

last noght, after it got too dark to work outside, i headed down to the shop. went to install the UCA on the passnegers side, and started to fight the car. little "persuasion" with a 2x4 and a 3 lb hammer, she went where she was supposed to. then the bolt holes wouldnt line up. had to take the shock out, the swaybar off, etc. finally got it all back together with the new spindles and spacers, though, and did a rough alignment. how i did that was to put an old rotor with no studs on the spindle, (no t-bar tension right now, by the way) and jack the UCA until the spindle pin was at right height measurment from where it was before (measured to the fender lip. and yes, i know youre supposed to measure at the inner pivot of the LCA. never been successful at that though. i just cant seem to be consistant with that method.)
roughed in the passengers side at 1.5 negative camber, 4.5 positive caster. used 2 hardened 5/8 washers per bolt for a totak of .25 shim stack.

heres pics. ive been working outide on the honey-do list all day, and im beat. add 43 to whatever the total was.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/Picture468-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/Picture467-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/Picture469-1.jpg

Michael

[csx4766]

Looking good Michael, everything you are doing just makes the car better.

[bonecrrusher]

Whats up with CCR SCCA? I've ran with them several times and never had an issue.... The location thing might suck for you since your not near Charlotte.

[dusterbd13]

well, ive got no real beef with CCRSCCA. little shy on runs the last time i went to one of their events, and the guys running there were a little standoffish. i think that had more to do with the fact that at the time i was running a multicolord lowered s10 than anything else.

i do enjoy their charity autocrosses down at carowinds, though.

and im 37 miles east of charlotte. still closer to go to maxton than to knights though.

another benifit is that i know a lot of the tarheel guys from open track events.

michael

[dusterbd13]

a while has passed with not a lot of work on the duster.



i got the drivers side back together, my strut rods FINALLY adjusted (stay away from the American muscle pieces. they are absolute crap. half the threads disappeared (sheared off the strut rod) while i was adjusting them. the front nuts did take a torque setting on them, so I'm just going to keep an eye on them. as a side note, the previous alignment guy that took 6 hours and charged me 200 bucks for an alignment that was nowhere near correct and actually caused the tire to contact the fender never tightened the strut rods back up after he adjusted them. may explain some of the evil steering/braking/handling characteristics of this car)



also, i worked with my brake sliders some. i noticed some odd wear on my pads, as the inboard pad is worn down about half way, while the outboard still had machining marks on them. came to figure out that when i POR15'd my calipers and caliper adapters, i never cleaned them back up where they were supposed to slide. the grease cant help a friction fit. so i took out my zizz wheel with an SOS pad and scrubbed them shiny. fresh grease and they should be good to go.



heres pics of one side done:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/Picture487-1.jpg



i still have to st my T-bar preload when i get it back on the ground. also have to trim my wheel studs some more. they're bottoming out in the lug nuts. then i can finalize the alignment and hook the sway bar back up.



while I'm waiting on my hogshead, i started working on my air dam again. its an 80's S10 piece made from 2 spares i had. took the good one, cut it in half. sectioned in a piece of the bad one to lengthen the whole unit to fit my car better. 6 3/4 inches worth of splice. took my harbor freight plastic welder and wended it back together. still have to do the front side, then ill check it for fit. if i still like it, ill do my bodywork, smooth it, and spray it semigloss black. may add brake cooling ducts too.



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/Picture490-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/Picture491-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/Picture492-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/Picture493-1.jpg



lastly i FINALLY got my splash shields installed.

add 7 dollars of screws and washers, as i lost the originals. or used them on something.



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/Picture488-1.jpg



i pick up my rear end from the re-builder tomorrow. that's gonna hurt......



Michael

[Bjkadron]

Very good! You are making a lot more progress than I am.

[dusterbd13]

i try to make a little every week. een if its just a couple of bolts.

granted that time is now split between my duster and my new truck, so less gets done than usual. maybe after i finish my interior resto i can focus on the duster some more. (probably not. ill find other stuff that needs to be done too, but a guy can try to lie to himself, right?)

[dusterbd13]

so, budget total from the previous updates: 1766.64



for this one, it hurts. a lot.



740 in rear end rebuild, 15 in gasket and posi additive. gear oil was actually free (had two bottles of 85-90 Valvoline in my storage building, unopened, from god knows when.

so the new total is: 2521.64



that's a hellofalot more than i had anticipated spending to get it to this point. kind of discouraging, really, but then again I'm doing it right and not cutting any corners.



so, heres what 740 worth of hogshead looks like:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/Picture496-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/Picture497-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/Picture498-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/Picture499-1.jpg



new clutches, gears, bearings, seals, and pinion yoke, plus setup. its quiet now.



if i had to do it all over again, i would have gone with the explorer 8.8. would have been considerably cheaper, and gotten rid of my wheel spacers and rear drums all at the same time.



i also got all my front wheel studs trimmed off 3/8 of an inch, but didn't take any pictures. you really cant see a 3/8 shorter wheel stud in a picture.



trial fit my new front air dam. still not finished with it. need to make a bracket to hold the center of it at the proper angle. after that, bodywork and paint. then ill decide whether its staying.



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/Picture500-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/Picture501-1.jpg



and a picture of the better of the two strut rods threaded portion.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/Picture503-1.jpg



got the ride height set right after this picture, sway bar reconnected, and did a quickie alignment on it. max caster on the eccentrics, camber wherever it fell, and 1/16 toe in. camber was right at -1 degree, caster right at 5.5 positive.



took it for a quick test spin (3 or 4 miles), and thought i heard some rubbing. couldn't really find where it was coming from, even after dong a thorough nut and bolt check. it rained all last week, so i didn't have any time to drive it.



Saturday, i was planning on getting some miles on it. it was actually sitting in the driveway warming up when my phone rang that my dad had totalled his brand new Z06 up at VIR. put the car away, and loaded up the truck and trailer to go take my mom to see him, pick him up, and haul back what was left of a 80,000 Z06 corvette. Saturday was a very, very crappy day. but my dad and his student were both more or less OK. just banged up pretty good.



today i got the car out since it was nice to put some miles on it and get a feel for the new setup. ran good, good turn in, drove straight, steering wheel straight. really liked it so far, except for an odd intermittent pull over slight bumps.



when i got down near work, i hit the crowned manhole cover with my right front corner, and immediately had the steering wheel pulled from my hands and point me towards the nice, shiny, new light pole. after i got the car squared away and quit cussing, i turned around and SLOWLY got home. nothing hurt but my pride.



this was not the fault of bumpsteer. what happened was that my right front corner actually locked up in compression. the lip of the UCA ground my wheel to a halt when it came into contact with it, causing my underwear changing course correction.

this was always the tight spot with my old spindles, but with the new found negative camber and taller spindles, it apparently has used up all my fudge factor. there's some nice shiny grooves in both the inside hoops of my front wheels where the higher side of the UCA is contacting, as well as some deeper gouges where the lip in front of the UBJ is hitting.



I'm going to grind the lip down about 1/8-3/16, and see if i get the clearance i need. if I'm still hitting, ill go back to the shorter spindles.



just as a reminder to all, CHECK EVERYTHING THROUGH THE FULL SUSPENSION ARTICULATION, NOT JUST RIDE HEIGHT. i usually do this, but got sloppy this time and it nearly bit me in the ass.



updates when i find my fix.



Michael

[Bjkadron]

Owch.. That was almost bad. I knew that was going to be a problem for mine. That Is why I went with the skinnier aftermarket UCA's. Hopefully you figure something out.

[dusterbd13]

so my new update...

i mostly "fixed" my clearance problems with the UCA's and the rim. took my trusty old 4 inch grinder out and ground the snot out of the lip around the UCA. no more lockup problems. the wheels DO still hit the UCA's, but only in reverse. i have no idea why that is....

Friday after work, i surprised my wife by having our daughter at her grandmas house, the car cleaned up and packed, and reservations at a hotel. we both have VERY stressful jobs, and very limited downtime. it was a pretty weekend, so we went away and took the duster.

Friday we left from albemarle, NC, and stopped for dinner at canyons in blowing rock NC. good eats, beautiful sunset, good view. pretty good bluegrass on the jukebox as well...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/Picture547-1.jpg

we laded back in after dinner and headed over to mountain city Tenn. for the night. stayed at the americourt, which was a nice place at a great price.

got up late Saturday morning, filled up the car, checked the fluids, etc. found i lost 1 quart of oil in 200 miles from my leaking oil pan gasket. that's quite irritating, and only more motivation for me to yank the motor this winter.
drove from mountain city over to Boone were we picked up the blue ridge parkway and headed north.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/Picture550-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/Picture557-1.jpg
somewhere in the middle of VA, is became very, very foggy. to the point that i could not see the end of my hood. try looking through a gallon of milk in a dimly lit room, and you get the idea. we pulled over for a bit at an overlook (of what, i have no idea). we decided to find something to eat.

this is where we made our most fun mistake of the trip.

we used the button on my new-to-me GPS that said food. selected a shoney's, and followed the voice that sounded like the librarian from when i was in4th grade.

it first took us down a rather poorly maintained 2 lane back road, but it got us mostly out of the fog. we then turned on a state road, which was loose paved. after it had narrowed to the point that it was hopeless to turn around, the road turned to gravel. beautiful area and countryside, though.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/Picture560-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/Picture558-1.jpg
a little later, we turned off the state road to a place that was simply labeled "road". that was a less nice road, and i was starting to get nervous, as well as have the fear of needing a 4 wheel drive wrecker to get me out.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/Picture561-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/Picture563-1.jpg

the GPS got us back on some two track
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/Picture562-1.jpg
that stopped here
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/Picture564-1.jpg

shoney's was about 1/2 mile across the interstate. we finally got over there just about the time it started raining.

we had a blast with that part of the trip, though. even though i heard rocks hitting body, bell housing hitting dirt road crown, and had no idea where we were or where we were going, we were both laughing and enjoying ourselves. just what we needed.
(my wife had to take a picture of me driving the duster on a dirt road, and smiling just to prove I'm not always uptight and anal-retentive)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/Picture559-1.jpg

we came home after shoney's due to torrential downpour and hail.

all told, we covered just shy of 550 miles in 2 days in a car that hasn't been thoroughly tested, and did not have a real problem.
best fuel economy seen was 16.25
the new suspension did not exhibit any worse bump steer than the previous, but was much more stable and predictable. felt more sure footed, tracked better, and was easier to drive than it has been since before the total resto
there were some small problems.
no armrest, but we temporarily fixed that with my cooler
the exhaust gets louder the hotter it gets. i think it may be contacting the body when the metal expands, or when the motor torques under constant load
an exhaust leak has started
the wind noise drove us nuts
there's an odd vibration in the steering wheel when under throttle with the wheels turned. i think my steering coupler may be contacting my header

the car is very comfortable for the two of us, not tiring to drive, and reasonably practical for weekend getaways. so right now, we have more "touring" and less "pro-"

up next is more "pro-" in the form of a tarheel autocross down at maxton next weekend.

Michael

[dusterdan]

i am completely new to this sight but i must commend you on the absolutely fantastic job you have done thus far on your car! i have a 70' original S6 car that's getting a stoker motor but the process is just limping along on a college budget! haha i must ask....please give me more info on your gauges i have a rallye dash as well but would love to put autometers on it! if you have part #'s, recommendations, anything would be great! i'm particularly interested in what appears to be a 4-in-1 gauge like the original i didn't know anybody made a replacement! anyways, sorry for the long message thanks in advance, Dan

[dusterbd13]

all the instrumentation is from the automneter street rod series. i boughht them when they first came out in the early 2000's, and now they have a bigger tach in arctic white that will fill the center pod like factory. youll use a 5 inche speedo and quad gauge, 3 1/8 tach, and LED;s for your inicators.

hope that helps, and thanks for the compliments.

[bonecrrusher]

Nice trip.... I love the BRP and western NC. I really need to get out and check out Mt Morrow - where is a good place to park up there?

[dusterbd13]

i usually go straight to the top. goiod views, better breeze. if you go ibn a weekend, you can hit the badin drive in as well, as its not far from morrow mountain.

Michael

[dusterbd13]

small update:



theres an interior repair guy that i use for some of my customer cars. we got to talking about my duster, and he said he could renove the lincold emblems from the seats, as well as fix the few tears. for 140 bucks, i was game. his name is kevin kimble, 704-215-8763



before

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/048-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/045-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/046-1.jpg



after

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/054-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/053-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/051-1.jpg



not perfect, but a lot better. the dye he used looks splotch under the flash, but is unnoticable under true light.



up next is fix my leaking water neck, fuel pump block off, and clean up from the leaks.



Michael

[DionR]

the brackets are for the vette calipers. ill take them and make a plywood tmplate before i mount them so i can have soem more made if necessary.


And if you could measure the brackets fairly accurately I could draw up a set of plans for you so you wouldn't need a plywood template.


or i could send you an accurate plywood template....

my measuring accurately ability leaves some to be desired....time for practice?


If you want just send me the template that would work fine. Just make sure it fits perfectly! since it is basically a gage part. So it needs to be pretty much perfect. And Actually I can measure super accurately if I have something to measure so that might work better. Though I can make changed to the drawing after I finish it.

I didn't realize when I sold those to you that you wanted to make more. No reason to measure them, I can send you the AutoCAD file I had them laser cut with. Just send me a cut of the profits if you market a kit. ;-)

I could even send you my layout so you could mess with them if you need.


The dodge charger/challenger/lx body does NOT share the same bolt pattern. It is close enough to physically fit on ht e studs but is isn't correct. About 1.5 MM off.

Actually, they do share the same bolt pattern. Used a guage on a wheel at the yard and the 115mm gauge did not fit, but the 114.3mm/4.5" did. I posted pictures of the gauges to show it on FABO, plus some other info that I found, but I don't have time to dig for it right now. I think it's a mistake that has been perpetuated through all kinds of documentation.

[dusterbd13]

and I'm not actually going to produce and/or sell them. was just gonna send Ben the measurements, or at least have them, if someone else wanted to do this swap. so i don't want you to think that I'm trying to make a profit off your hard work, Dion. i should have given you the credit for pioneering it,, though, and for that i apologize

one of these days I'm actually going to finish my hubs i started and get the brakes done, but its not looking good anytime soon.

on the lack of updates front, its been busy season at work (both jobs)
since my last update, Ive:
installed EZ EFI and completely re plumbed a 68 hemi roadrunner
installed springs, shocks, bushings, corner weighted, and dialed in a c5 corvette
finished rebuilding and dialing in carbs and ignition on a 60 corvette
bunch of c5 service work
redid the interior in my daily, as well as put in a new brake system (everything but the metal lines), stereo, fixed the AC, etc
replaced the clutch in my dads CRX autocross/dd toy
ac compressor ans system in a c5 vette
rebuilt lots of equipment and moved my wood shop at work (i teach voc rehab)

and before i really have time to mess with the duster again, i have:
brothers trans am to do oil pan and other major service to
67 GTO to do some re-restore to
mobile soda blaster to rewire
rebuild suspension on daily
c3 corvette interior

so its not that Ive been slack, but just not spent any time or money on the duster. Ive been researching my EFI options, 5 speed options, and saving my money for my AC.

any spare time i have when my family is awake and I'm not working, Ive been with them.

however, this weekend I'm going autocrossing for fathers day. so I'm excited about FINALLY fully testing the new front end setup.

Michael

[DionR]

and I'm not actually going to produce and/or sell them. was just gonna send Ben the measurements, or at least have them, if someone else wanted to do this swap. so i don't want you to think that I'm trying to make a profit off your hard work, Dion. i should have given you the credit for pioneering it,, though, and for that i apologize

Hey, no reason to apologize. I'm not upset, and I was only joking about you building a kit. I don't want the liability, so I have no intention of doing it myself. I was just offering the file, no reason to reverse engineer it.

[dusterbd13]

thanks, dion.

and i dont want the liability either, which is the reason i wont make a kit. but if the brakes work like i think they will (have you driven yours yet?), ive got a few buddies that will want me to swap their cars. like ryans pro-touring 500 cube GTX

what size master are you running on your car? power or manual brakes? whats the pedal like?

Michael

[DionR]

I haven't gotten mine installed, the project stalled when I got my old Duster back. The plan had been to use the brakes on the 63 Valiant I have, and initially I was going to just get the Duster back up and running and just drive it, and then go back to messing with the Valiant. Well, it took me almost 3 years to get the Duster running and driving, and since then I've come to the conclusion that I can't really support more than one project car. And so, since the Duster is in much better shape, the Valiant will probably go away. I still plan to run the C5 calipers, but they will be on the Duster instead. All of the heavy duty stuff currently on the Valiant will get swapped and then the Valiant will get parted and scrapped.

The Valiant really is pretty far gone, rust in both quarters and wheel wells, floor, and even the cowl. It's a neat project and in some ways I like it better than the Duster, but it just needs so much more than the Duster does. Besides, the Duster is an original 4 speed 360 car, 1 of 586.

Not sure about the master cylinder yet. I have an aluminum 1 1/32 bore one to put on the car, but I'm not sure it is the right one. Don't want power brakes, so it might be too big. Time will tell.

Only thing I am lacking to bolt it all up is brake lines. Haven't figure that out yet.

Did you get my email yesterday?

[dusterbd13]

so, been a long time with no real updates.

and this isn't really one either.

since my last update, Ive been busier that a one armed wallpaper hanger. been working almost every night and weekend on customer cars. also got laid out for a little bit when i took a screwdriver to my left eye at my day job. and yes, i was wearing safety glasses. (picture taken a day or two later. caught both my eyelids, cut notches in them both. swelled my eye shut, and got metal shavings in it. it hurt. a lot. )
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/032-1.jpg

i did take a promotion at my day job, and have become a director over the mental health facility i work at. its currently temporary, but i find out next week if its permanent.

on my side job, i fix and restore other peoples cars. it helps pay the bills and get luxuries for my family. i also get to keep some of it for playing with my own junk.

Ive done a lot of work this summer so far, but ill fill you in on the interesting stuff, and even show some pictures of some of it.

1968 hemi road runner. fixed wiring gremlins and installed EZ EFI system. (lost some of the finished pictures in a computer crash. blame bill gates)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/0042-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/0311-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/012-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/013-1.jpg

c5 vette. upgraded the shocks, sway bars, springs, and some bushings. aligned and corner weighted. also installed the corsas.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/007-2.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/005-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/006-1.jpg

1960 corvette, rebuilt the carbs and ignition system, fine tuned the whole setup. its coming back for a brake job, wiper repair, and interior touch up.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/0401-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/003-1.jpg

and most recently, a 1967 GTO 400 4sp convert. re-resto work. the car is an older resto thats been driven a bunch, and neglected a little. i redid the engine bay, fixed some electrical gremlins, cleaned it up, mounted the redlines, dialed in the carb and ignition, adjusted all the linkages, painted the gas tank and exhaust, installed a new dash speaker (major PITA), etc. lots of little things that added up to almost 30 hours of work.
before:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/001-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/002-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/0031-1.jpg

during

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/0051-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/0071-1.jpg

after
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/0081-2.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/010-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/017-2.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/015-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/0121-1.jpg

[dusterbd13]

1989 Chevy long bed. i redid the interior earlier, now i two toned it, added sway bars, and dropped it 3/4
before:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/019-1.jpg

after
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/098-1.jpg

and now i can get back to the duster. which is a good thing, as Ive registered for RTTH in September, gotten the time off work, paid for the hotel, and arranged for my dad and a trailer to go with me.

Ive spent a lot of money on the car in last few weeks, but no real time. the last time i drove it, or even looked at it, was the 4th of July for a parade my little girl was in. just before that, due to the heat, i finally addressed my cooling system problems. i replaced my thermostat housing with a trans dapt unit that i picked up for 15 bucks, thinking that would solve the leak. i honestly figured the Chinese chrome one i put on the car was crap, but i didn't properly diagnose it before spending money. therefore, it leaked worse than ever before. turned out that i had the wrong thermostat in it. instead of spend more money on a new thermostat, i took the cheaper way out. i cut down the diameter of the mounting flange of the thermostat to fit properly in the recess of the new trans dapt housing. took about 10 minutes. hasn't leaked since.
i also used a JAZ surge tank on the radiator (23 bucks). this car has always had a coolant level thats 2 inches below the filler neck ever since i put in the crossflow radiator. never had any major overheating issues, but its always bugged me. since the installation of the surge tank, its staying full, and oddly enough operating temp has lowered 10 degrees.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/020-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/022-1.jpg

so, grand total for this update is 2699.64

take a good look at the last picture of the engine bay. cause its all gonna change next weekend. i finally ordered my AC that Ive been wanting for the last 10 years. seems every time i got close, something came up. like wrecks, dead appliances, baby, wedding, etc. this time i finally got it. I'm stupid excited. absolutely stupid excited. ill take pictures and update as soon as the box hits my front porch.

Michael

[Bjkadron]

Nice! I should be going to RTTH again this year (though still as a spectator). So I'm really excited to see it run!

[dusterbd13]

so, weve got a BUNCH of money to add to the budget. i spent 1397.50 on a perfect fit AC system from classic auto air. opted for the shorty sanden sd7 compressor, and the correct brackets from bouchillon to mate it up to my victor jr intake. bought the perfect fit, even though i wasnt too keen on some of the ways they did things. wouldnt have really saved any money to just buy the various components i need, and not the rest. well, would have saved about 50 bucks. id rather have the extra parts.

so it arrived thursday evening late. i did get my premanant promotion this week, and have been putting in a ton of hours learning and figuring out my new job duties. so i didnt even get to look at the boxes until i was loading them into the bed of my truck at 6:30 friday night. took them over to the shop wher i opened them up and took inventory to make sure i had everything i ordered. i did.

i forgot my camera, so no pictures of friday night.

first impressions were that the kit was VERY well packaged. custom made cardboard spacers, dividers, individually wrapped packages for various parts of the install, etc. i also learned that there had been some running design changes since the directions were made. so they arent the best instructions in the world. leave a good bit to guessing and figuring things out on your own.

started the install friday night. kinda. got my radiator drained, pulled my glovebox liner, passengers seat, and heater box assembley. got to looking, and found some things that mandfe me scratch my head in amazement. like the fact that other than the dynamat and factory cardboard insulation, i had done nothing with the frewall, cowl, and kick panels. this makes no sense to me whatsoever of why i didnt do jute and insulation on these areas. really no idea.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/006-1.jpg

so i spent the remainder of friday night doin the firewall and cowl from the passengers kick to the clutch/brake pedal box in foil backed jute. add 20 for a roll of that. used some leftover 3m adhesive, so were good with that price. i also shot the chrome foil with some semi-gloss black paint so it wouldnt show through.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/002-1.jpg

saturday morning, i planned to sleep in. woke up at 7am. dang it.
went down to the shop, and started working on the istall side of things. got my control head modified after some head sctratching and unjamming my pop rivit tool. the directions were not clear in this area, but i figured it out. also cleaned, tightened, lubed, etc all the controls. one tip: attach the wiring to the fan switch before re-install. will make life a LOT easier later.

then, went to put the underdash assembly in place. the directions call for you to bolt in in from the engine bay side through a pair of nuts on the box. then you cover those bolts with a plastic cover that is retained with self tapping sheet metal screws. i hated that idea. just looked cheap and tacky to me. also, they tell you to run the heater hose valve cable and compressor clutch wire out through the origonal heater core tube holes. again, looked cheap and tacky.

this is the picture from their website:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/classicautoairunderhood-1.jpg

instead, i decided to recreate the factory style a bit more. used the lupplied body plugs in my prigonal heater core trim, and reinstalled that on the firewall. them made a pair of studs coming from the underdash assembly that more or less mimicked the origonal studs through the firewall. put a pair of bolts through the lower two blower motor holes. drilled the plastic plate in 5 places. 4 for the "studs" through the firewall, and one for the heater valve cable. also trimmed the plastic plate to match the origonal blower motor reinforcement plate.

came out pretty slick.
when i went to hook up the heater hoses, i realized that they were too short for how i wanted/needed to run them. went up to the parts store, and spent 42 on a pair of gates 5/8 hoses with molded in 90 degree bends. a little cutting here and there, bent the heater hose bracket into a new shape, and viola. i like how their routed now.

all ive got left on the interior side is to finish running the compressor wire through the bulkhead, and install my dash vents/hoses/seat. also need to install the new glovebox liner that i modified to fit my shift light controller and ipod jack.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/003-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/004-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/005-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/010-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/007-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/009-1.jpg

so, grand total as of today: 4159.14

wow, this is getting expensive.
but im having a ball.
more next weekend when i work on the inderhood some.

Michael

[devwil68]

looks nice!

[dusterbd13]

well, i ran into some problems last night, which may actually be a good thing.

im adding AC to my duster, using a shorty sanden compressor, the classic air kit, and a bouchillon six pack ac bracket.

the compressor is trying to occupy the same space as the water bypass outlet port in my victor jr. apparently, there isnt an off the shelf bracket for this setup that WILL clear, so im back to square one.

this picture
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/tasmanianabody-1.jpg
came up in this thread http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=150494

this guy is in tasmania, and has done what i have not seen done before.
looking at the picture, he is using a drivers side mounted alternator of GM design, and mounted a shorty SD7 where the alternator used to reside on the passengers side.
it looks like he used to alternator bracket assemblies to do this, so he could adjust belt tension. only thing i cant tell from the picture is wether or not he has power steering. i do. so that will possibly affect my belt routing on the drivers side.
heres what im starting with for this:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/Picture206-1.jpg
i have a spare alternator bracket assembly, so....
it looks like i could use my spare and mount my GM alternator to the same location on the driver side of my water pump. have to adjust for depth of course so i have correct pulley and belt tracking. i would also have to clock it so i could access my power steering pump if it should ever be necessary.

so why cant i make this work with relatively little fab work? it looks in my head that this should be an almost bolt together deal, just having to make some spacers, and possibly a tensioner assembly for riding on the back ( flat) of the v-belt. i have seen a few on factory 60's AC belts, but wouldnt know what to look it up under.

i think that o ciuld realistically do this. i would have to pick up a 4 groove crank pulley for the extra belt to the AC compressor, though, would the grovves line up with the non AC power steering brackets/pullies?

thanks
let the ideas, experiences, and "what i thought about/saw/read about's" fly please.

and if you have done this deal before, share that too. please. with pictures.

michael

[droptop73]

Michael, the 71-73 mustangs use a belt tensioner (not spring loaded) for the A/C belt. Here's a couple of pics with the A/C bracket it attaches to. I hope this helps.

4862848627

[dusterbd13]

thanks!! i may wond up looking at the parts store for that pulley.

michael

[dusterbd13]

so spent a couple hours piddling and raiding my parts bins today. i love having leftovers from all sorts of stuff In my magic bolt bins. Ive got stuff from Honda's, race cars, corvettes, tractors, industrial equipment, etc. so don't ask me what some of the spacer stock came from, cause i REALLY don't know. ill wind up remaking some of it so it doesn't look cobbled together from my magic bolt bins.

but a long story short: the guy from Tasmania's setup will probably work with power steering. i will have to use 4 groove crank pulley and a 2 groove water pump pulley though, due to my edelbrock heads being a little further protruding than his iron heads.

i used a spare Chinese chrome alternator bracket swapped around a bit, and located it on the drivers side. lined up perfectly with the existing drilled and tapped hole. had to use a couple of longer bolts, though, as the ARP's just didn't have enough thread engagement. also made a temporary spacer behind the bracket on the upper bolt, as the power steering pump bracket spaced it out too much from the water pump to fudge.
this led to some interesting belt routing necessities, as the alternator pulley was now in line with the power steering pump pulley. my solution is to solid mount the alternator above the power steering pump, and adjust belt tension with an idler pulley which also helps route the belt away from the water pump pulley where it would otherwise rub. the idler is actually an AC idler assembly from a d-series Honda motor from a CRX i built three times.
on the AC pump side, the compressor fit well once i removed the radiator fans as the motor on the one was contacting the compressor clutch. i also had to remove my previously fabbed fuel pressure regulator (that was leaking from the mechanical fuel pump block off plate) so i could tuck it in some more. i believe that with the AC style pulleys, i will have a good belt routing for this one as well.

anyway, on to the pics of what Ive done today and Friday. first, the condenser from the classic kit that did not fit per the directions. wound up removing radiator entirely, and assembling the bracketry in place on the core support. they were nowhere near correct in the directions.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/0091-1.jpg

also got my 2/3 of my vents mounted in the interior. and my glove box liner installed. their glove box liner is an absolute piece of crap. it doesn't even come CLOSE to fitting the opening. i have it stuffed in there for lack of a better option at this point in time. in the process of reassembly, i broke my latch striker for by glove box. tried to bend it to get it to line up better, and snapped it in half. have to find another one soon, so i can close my glove box and hide the liner.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/0081-1.jpg

and now the interesting stuff, the AC compressor/brackets. mind you, its nowhere near finished, but more of a proof of concept thing. let me know if you see potential issues.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/0021-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/001-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/0091-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/0041-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/0051-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/0061-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/0071-1.jpg

more later when i have some more time. need to build a wiring harness for a mobile soda blaster in the next couple of weeks, then thrash on this car to get ready for RTTH.

[mrn2obelvedere]

Heads up to the SB Mopar guys out there with regards to the thermostat housing leaks.

SB chevy housings bolt right on. I got a cheap o-ring housing for mine and it works great.

I like your duster build, it is very nice. I hope you enjoy it more now that it's more streetable.

[dusterbd13]

had i only known that, i found a spare in my majic bolt bin. dang it.

and i really have been enjoying it a lot. sure, its slower and less brital in a straight line. but its SOOOOOOO mcuh nicer to spend time in.
im really looking forward to driving it with more insulation/sound deadening, AC, and the upcoming dual plane.
have to remove the nitrous setup. just dont see it working well on a dual plane.
michael

[dusterbd13]

weekly update time.



short version:

the AC is almost finished. all i have to do is wire it, and get a cooling fan in it.

budget: add 13 for brackets, 38.17 for two pulleys and tow electric fans, 169 for an intake, 27 for paint, and 97.56 for a fuel pump block off plate, intake gaskets, and AN fittings, and 9.88 for a belt.

total: 4513.75



long version:

my wife and i were talking about what to do with the ac compressor situation. i shared with her my plans to go with a fabricated setup. i also shared my eventual plans for an intake swap, but that i really wasn't ready to spend the 279 for an eddy RPM air gap.

she wanted me to have a backup plan in case my fabbed setup didn't work out. so while looking on ebay, i stumbled across the pro-comp Chinese knockoff of the RPM air gap. really started debating it, and my wife said shed buy it for me if i agreed to take off the nitrous kit and give it back.

so i bought it, with a little bit of nervousness. these have had bot ends of the spectrum on reviews. from great, to serious porosity and core shift.



mine is actually better from a casting perspective than my victor Jr was. much cleaner and more consistent ports.

i was also surprised by the hardware they sent. instead of cheap freeze plug style things for the magnum pattern like i had heard about, i got stubby wheel stud looking plugs. knurled, with a nice domed top.



heres pics, with port pictures matched to fel-pro 1213 gaskets.

the manifold will get a little porting and cleanup before install, as well as a coat of blue paint. has to match.....



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/0032-2.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/0042-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/0062-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/0072-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/0082-1.jpg



the 27 was for a quart of POR15 Chrysler blue. and i WILL have it shaken at the paint store before use this time.



i also finished my accessory drive build. surprisingly, it all went according to plan, and a little better than i had hoped.

the most exotic things used in this accessory system, are, in order of oddity:

1. AC idler pulley and adjuster from a Honda D16Z6

2. heim joints and tube



other than that, it was all standard stuff.

for alternator support, i used a parts store Mr. Gasket alternator arm. by the way, the Taiwan chrome on those is CRAP. comes right off with a coarse scuffing pad on a zizz wheel



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/0011-1.jpg



for all the spacers, i used some 1/2 ID steel tube that my dad had under the workbench. also used a little aluminum 3.8 fuel line for a couple of the spacers.

the major thing i had to find was AC/smog/PS pulleys. 4 groove crank, 2 groove water pump. got those for 8 each at pull-a-part this morning from an 85 new yorker that never went a mile without dripping oil. and the odo read 256,xxx. nasty, nasty car.



anyway, you can get the power steering dipstick out to check the fluid, too.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/0101-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/011-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/012-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/014-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/013-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/015-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/016-1.jpg



and then i got the lines in. i did change the location of where the rubber hose comes through the core support. classic air has it coming at the top of the core support, and it looked ugly. so i passed it through the same hole that the metal like comes through, and built a little aluminum plate to keep the two lines in place.

did not have to adjust any hose lengths. this is how they were delivered, just the routing has been changed considerably.





https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/017-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/0191-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/0211-1.jpg





still have to find a cooling fan that fits. bought a set from a 2.7 dodge intrepid, but they are about .5 too deep and contact my water pump pulley.

the k-car fans i had on there, the motors contact my new accessory locations

i do still have this HUGE ford s-blade fan that i found one time. no lie, this thing is about 18 in in diameter. it was sitting on the hood of a crown vic at pull-a-part, and i bought it just because i had never seen an electric fan that size. heres to hoping it clears.

also have to do some wiring

fill the cooling system

finish my fuel pump regulator replumb and relocate

vacuum and charge the AC

add drivers side AC duct



hopefully ill get most of that knocked out tomorrow, so i can have it charged and cleaned up Wednesday on my day off. next weekend were supposed to meet up with our old group of friends from college, and id like to take the duster.



Michael

[DartorDemon]

I have a version of the intake by "performance products". What i gathered was that the chromed/polished ones sucked, but the plain jain ones worked well. Something to do with the casting and that coating/polishing process blah blah blah

[Bjkadron]

Let me know how the intakes work.. I was looking at those just yesterday.

[72BBSwinger]

Way cool Duster man! Dig the low key touches, function is what wins not flash!

[dusterbd13]

so all has not been well in the world.
i blame murphy. and his law. pictures of the completed and assembled setup, pre AC charging

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/0012-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/0023-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/0043-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/0073-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/0033-1.jpg

so, i go to get the AC charged. runs great the whole 30 miles to the shop that i have do my AC work. get it charged up, fire up the compresor, horrendus racket emionating from the compressor. aww crap.

so we figure out that its belt slippage. no biggie. just turn the AC off, drive it down to the junkyarfd to get my glovebox latch, go home, and get a wider and shorter belt. i paid my 75.04 and split.
never made it to the junkyard.

apparentyly i hooked the constant hot side of the circut to my electric fans. therefor, when my electric fans kicked on, it backfed the circuit, turning on the AC compressor and such. burned up the belt, throwing parts of it around the engine bay.
this is the same belt that also turns my water pump. remember that. its important.

so i have minimal tools other than a phillips screwdriver and a pair of pliers for getting my glovebox latch. nothing to swap a belt, no parts store within walking distance. so i call geico for my free towing, and have it flatbedded the 3 miles back to the house.

honestly thought the compressor had locked up at that point. so i called classic auto air rather pissed. i will give lots of credit to the man out there ive been dealing withm greg. very great customer service, and very thick skin,. also willing to help any way he could. id recommend him to anyone.

after the motor cools off, i figure out what actually happened. call greg back, give him an apology, and go down to the parts tsore for a shorter and wider belt.
go out for a test drive, and wind up doing 100 miles. no problems, and ice cold air. life is good. very, very good. im stoked, and rather happy.

i decided since i have AC now, and since its getting close to RTTH, ill daily the car this past week to give it a real good shakedown so i know its solid for the event. dont want to take a car the whole way to pigeon forge, break it right out of the gate, and spend the weekend trying to keepp it together and salvage the weekend. thats just not my idea of fun.
so monday, i only made it 15 miles. then the new belt was thrown. oly noticed it when my AC stopped blowing, and my water temp got to 230. at least i caught it before i cooked something.
belt stayed in the car. still no tools, but im only a couple hunred yards from a shop thats run by some guys in my sunday school class, endy imports.
borrow some wrenches, put the belt back on, fire it up, go up the way to make the u-turn to get to their parking lot, and thrw the fricking belt again. now im pissed. really, really pissed. put it back together AGAIN 200 yards later (from first throw to stop after second throw), so i can go home. i tighten the ever living snot out of the belt, and pray it gets me the 8 miles home. it does, no problem. go to get in my camry that i just replaced an alternatopr in and charged the battery fully so i can get my daughter picked up. im an hour late already.

the camry wouldnt start. battery wasnt holding a charge.

i was beyond livid at this point.

get my wifes car. it needed gas.

finally got my daughter picked up 2 hours late.

when i got downstairs, i took a look at the belt problem. did a nut and bolt check, and came to the conclusion the the pullies were not lined up properly. shimmed the compressor out 1/8 inch to get everything square, and ran it around a little bit. no problems.

so the next day it makes in 19 miles to red cross before destroying the belt entirely. and spattering belt goo and shards all over my engine compartment.
my dad picked me up, took me up to o'reillies to buy another 19 dollar belt. put it back together on the side of the road. 2 hours late to pick up my daughter again. decide toleave the car there and take the CRX home.
dad and i check all the alignments again, and find that the nose of the compressor is pointed down. so i buy a 3 dollar bolt to make a sturdier mount, put it back together, and try it. doesnt even make it the 10 miles to oakboro friday for the cruise in before the belt turned itself inside out. WTF???
so i spend the time at the cruise night fixing my belt. got it back together, and prayed that it would get me home. it didnt.
only this time, it was the belt that drives my power steering and alternator.

ive gotta say, wide 17's, agressive alignmnt, powerless steering, and a small diameter steering wheel dont mix well when all put together unexpectedly. when the belt let go, it ripped the steering wheel right out of my hands in the middle of a turn. that was a seriou oh **** mmoment. i managed to save it from the ditch. it wasnt poretty, but i saved it. did tap a mailbox with my outside poassengers mirror. only chipped the chrome. i got damned lucky.
i drove it home the rest of the 15 miles with no charging system and no power steering. at night. in the country.
when i got to town where there were streetlights, i turned off my lights to conserve electricity to get me home.
got escorted by a cop for the last two blocks. when i explained in my driveway, he was cool with it. probably figured something, which is why he didnt light me up in the neighborhood.

and oh yeah, the water pump/AC belt turned itself inside out and ate itself to shreds too. dammit.
so, heres pictures of where i sit now.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/0083-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/0092-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/0102-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/0111-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/0121-1.jpg

so what the hell is goiung on here????
i really need to figure this out, or cancel ouyt of the event. next weekend is my go/no go date. any later than that, i cant confirm dependability, button up all the little details, and detail the car.

theres gotta be a reason that the belts keep going like this. i think the power steering/alt belt died due to old age. i have no idea about the AC/WP belt other than maybe the compressor is moving around or something.

gove me some ideas, things to check, something. I NEED HELP!!!!!

Michael

[Bjkadron]

Well, That really Sucks... I Hope you can get it fixed. I am looking forward to seeing it at RTTH.

How much belt wrap do you have on the different pulleys? Have you tried having someone rev it with a load (like AC on) and see if one of your brackets are flexing? If you do this remember not to stand inline with the belt.. The only other thing I can think of is maybe it has something to do with the tensioner? V-belts aren't really designed for a back load..

[dusterbd13]

so i wound up remaking the compressor mounts entirely.

figured out that everything was fine with the old one, UNTIL you put tension on the belt or turned on the compressor. then it moved about 1/2 inch in any direction it wanted to.



i also triangulated it in the process. added a lower rear mount, and moved my turnbuckle adjuster to the front side, lower portion.



lined it all up in every plane i could think of, making sure that it was as square to everything else as possible.



Ive put 200+ on it since Friday night with no problems. so i think Ive got it nailed down.



i also discovered why the power steering belt went.

the ride home, when the compressor belt came loose, it went rearward on the crank pulley, only being retained by the power steering belt. over half of the belt was ground away before it snapped. over half of my AC belt was ground away as well. so i think that was my failure point. been keeping an eye on it anyway, though.



wound p costing me 17 in new belts, and another 12 for another ,r. gasket chrome alternator bracket, which i quickly took a hammer and sawzall to to make my triangulation mount.



i may still make it to RTTH, but I'm undecided right now. depends on what the insurance company does with my daughters medical bills from where we had to take her to the hospital.

worst case, theres always next year.



heres pics of the remade mount.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/0053-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/0064-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/0074-1.jpg

[dusterbd13]

so, i finally am caught up enough from the aftermath of my vacation to post an update.


short version: even though i broke it, i had a blast at RTTH7.


long version (get a cup of coffee and sit. it may be long)


i spent about 4 days after my last update getting the car as clean and detailed as it has been since the full resto. its really quite sad how neglected i let this car become. cleaned everything but the undercarriage. waxed/buffed it, armor all, cleaned the inside of the wheels, detailed/touched up under hood, etc. car was really looking great. i should have taken pictures then, but i didn't. theme for the weekend, really.


I drove the car down to my fathers shop (the one in pictures with a lift) for him to do a tech inspection on. on the drive down, found my AC compressor wasn't kicking on. so i added that to the list.

he found a LOT of play in my idler arm, so we swapped that out under the lifetime warranty. i also put the first new pair of wiper blades on the car since the late 90's. they were desperately needed (used a spare set of refills that i found in the storage, cut to correct length. free is good!!)

those were the only issues i found then. fixed them both, and put the cover on it.


Thursday morning, we loaded the truck. little cloudy, but it was nice that it wasn't so hot. about the time i uncovered the car and backed it off the lift, the bottom dropped out. driving, pounding rain. right on my fresh detail job.

oh well, i built the car this time to drive, not polish.

we got it strapped down, changed into dry clothes, and headed for pigeon forge. had rain almost the whole way. when we got up there, sun was back out.

the GPS was wrong, though. instead of the toy box, we wound up at a dead end in a cemetery. interesting getting the trailer and truck out of there.

got to the hotel, registered for the event, got the car off the trailer, and walked across the six lanes to a little diner. good eats, and nice to spend time with my dad. the other p-t.com guys started rolling in, and we sat in the parking lot swapping stories and eyeballing cars until after dark. it was nice, and work only called me three times. which was even better.


Friday morning, we got the car all cleaned up the best we could in the hotel paring lot. spray detailer, microfiber towels, and a little bit of drying with a waterblade and some spare hotel towels. car was looking good again.

we applied the event decals, and i went to just double check everything before running tail of the dragon. learned that my AC was still not working, and neither were my cooling fans. the problem with the AC was a bad binary switch (jumped it with a piece of 8 gage wire), and the cooling fans were a bad relay. found an advance down the road about a mile, picked up a 5 dollar relay, put it in in the parking lot, and the fans worked. made it back in time for a sand which from the cooler and to meet up with everyone before the cruise. we also realized on the ride back from the parts store that the electrics in the passengers side seat were only working intermittently. turned out that my ground screw had come loose. 10 seconds with a 7mm wrench and we were back in business.


left for the cruise with a couple we had met at the diner the night before. gentleman's name was Jeff, and i forget his wifes name. they drove a 67 vette on a tube chassis with an LS7. wicked, fast, beautiful car. and very, very nice people. we hung out with them most of the weekend.

about 9 miles in, the car was running very, very hot. pulled over, and Jeff, as well as a young guy with a 67 camaro, and a 67 GTO convertible pull in to check on us. turns out the hot side prong on my snap switch for my fans had snapped off. side of the road fix was to straight wire the fans to the charge stud on the back of the alternator. just loosen the nut and pull the wire off so it doesn't drain the battery when parked. left it that way the rest of the weekend, cause i had a spare back home.

ran the whole dragon, and had fun. had lunch with dad, Jeff, and his wife, as well as a guy in a late model camaro that had joined up with us at the dragon. good eats at the gift shop, pricey though.

and that road is incredible, its no wonder so many people get hurt being stupid on it. you should see the tree of shame. truly incredible. and kind of heartbreaking, knowing how much pain and misery, and even death was involved in making that tree.

after lunch, we got flagged by a guy saying that there was a GTO broken down a little ways up the road. turned out to be the same one that stopped to help earlier. we jerry-rigged his alternator charge stud back together the best we could, jumped him off, and started back to precision hot rods for dinner. he was well ahead of us, as we were taking out time and enjoying the scenery.


about 10 miles later, we met back up with him. our patch held, but the exciter inside the one wire alternator didn't. gave him a ride to pick up his truck and trailer, and met another really cool guy. Jeff and his wife, as well as the young guy in the white and orange camaro, stayed to help as well.


dinner at precision was good, and their shop is incredible. I'm a no-talent hack compared to those guys. and you should see the industrial equipment they build in the next building. truly impressive.



got back to the hotel and passed out. long day.


Saturday morning was the autocross. cleaned the car up again, and noticed that my thermostat housing gasket had started leaking again. topped off the radiator, and went through tech. no prob.

bill had the event set up so each run group got two sessions of 6 runs each. i was car #8, so i was in the first run group. the track was HUGE. more like a low speed road course than an autocross. biggest autocross course i have EVER been on. hell, it was bigger than most go-cart and motorcycle tracks Ive been on. just huge.


my first run, i broke. blew the thermostat gasket clean out from between the manifold and housing, covering my windshield and car in coolant. i didn't think the little leak was anything big, but i didn't account for the pressure spike when i pulled the trigger for WFO to 6500 RPM.

lost my whole first session getting a new gasket and the car put back together. dad jumped in the truck and ran down to a parts store, grabbed some antifreeze and a gasket, came back, and we stuck it back together.

second session i was running pretty good. had a bit of trouble with tire rub, resulting in a mangled front right fender lip.

the story is pretty cool, really.

snap throttle over steer.

i backed off when the back end broke free. tires locked up, bringing the back end of the car around even more. full opposite lock four wheel drift. when the tires finally caught traction again, i was still at opposite lock. the shocks and springs are soft enough that the body rocked over HARD, catching the front tire pretty good. actually hit my passenger in the face with a rubber chunk.


got all six runs in. my fastest time of the second session (my first) put me solidly in the middle of the pack for everyones first session. so i felt pretty good about that. add that to being the only torsion bar mopar there, and i felt really good. especially with as mild as my car is. there were three other mopars. bills charger (full on XV level 3 suspension), shafi's kuda (coil overs, hemi, etc) and a Dakota RT.


had dinner at the toy box, with the best steak i have had in a very long time. thanks again, Alfred.


Sunday was the drag strip. 1/8the mile. first time i had been on a strip since the late 90's. so i was a little rusty. the car fighting me didn't help. i did not make a single clean pass before breaking.

every pass, it had a very nasty bog and layed down through first gear. only got 5 runs in, so i never had time to even think about tuning it.

launched good and straight though, and pulled like a freaking freight train in second. when i didn't miss it power shifting.

my best run was an 8.6 something. which is 14's in the quarter. best 60 ft of 2.6 seconds, with no wheel spin. that should tell you how bad she was running through first.

on my last pass, the car had had enough. i went to power shift second, and the clutch pedal stayed on the floor. had to get off the throttle from where i was bouncing it off the rev limiter, and kick the clutch pedal a few times. it came back, and i coasted the rest of the run. go to turn on the return road, and have no power steering. apparently while bouncing off the rev limiter, i threw the belts. with everything else, i was done. threw in the towel, parked it, and watched for a little while.

tossed my spare belts back on in the pits, pulled it on the trailer, and came home.


on the last run, my alternator also apparently caught fire. blackened, charred, and no longer charging.


when i got it home, drained the coolant, fixed my wiring hacks, replaced the alternator, fixed the AC proper (bad connection at the binary), found my rear axle noise (drive shaft hitting muffler)

and yanked the single pane to finally put my dual plane in.


the dual plane is gasket matched, and the ports lined up very well. the bolt holes, however, don't. they are all drilled at the wrong angle. so i have to pull it back off, re machine the holes, and try it again.


so thats where we currently sit. i also did not manage to get ANY of my own pictures at the event. apparently my disc was not properly inserted into my camera, so they did not save. but other guys did take pics, which i will repost here for the sake of those that like to look.


also, I'm going to be revising my sway bar mounts up front, upgrading shocks, ditching the lowering blocks for a better solution, and probably upgrading to 1 inch t-bars. she is very undersprung and damped right now. hopefully, i don't lose my incredible ride quality.


heres the pics:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/rtth065-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/092411639-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/6183677785_f33b86a1b0_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/6183678085_010072dcbe_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/6183698729_0a19312099_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/IMG_9075-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/IMG_9595-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/IMG_9598-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/IMG_9601-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/IMG_9604-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/IMG_9609-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/IMG_9610-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/IMG_9611-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/6183513085_51b7935151_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/6183513765_2567050469_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/6183530735_5b03c4210c_b-1.jpg

[ALLstrokedOUT]

Sounds like a great time! I wish there was an event like that further south (or i wish ihad time to go north). The duster looks beautiful and very clean in those pictures. I look forward to your suspension 'tweaks' particularly the sway bar. Are you thinking of putting a rear sway bar in?

[dusterbd13]

ive already got a rear sway bar. addco 7/8, and a 1 1/8 front addco. the mounts just flex a lot on the front. need to mae a better system.
also need to look at my TTI's and see if a 1 inch bar will clear them. its gonna be tight.

the rear suspension tweaks will be to use a shorter shackle and a dropped front hangar. should get my rear geometry in better places as well. (at least thats my theory)

Michael

[68400BIRD]

Thanks for sharing with all of us. I find your build and stories very interesting. Very easy to read, to the point, and just plain fun to read. Sorry to hear about all of the misfortunes but I would rather have that than looking at my ride sitting in the garage knowing it's at leat a few years before I can do anything like your doing. Keep us updated and of course the more pictures the better.

[Bjkadron]

Yep, That rubber piece almost took my eye out.

The body roll felt pretty bad from inside... It looks REALLY bad from the outside. It looks like you need a lot more front roll stiffness (which I guess is why you are working on your front bar mounts).

The rear springs: it would actually help more to do the dropped front hanger and a LONGER rear shackle... You can actually flip the front hangers up side down my enlarging one bolt hole, then use adjustable rear hangers to tune the ride height (this was my plan till I decided to go with the three link). The closer to level (front to back) the springs are the more neutral the rear roll steer (it roll under-steers now).

As for shocks: I am considering getting rid of my adjustable shocks since I'd have to cut them apart to do the coilovers anyway. PM me.

As a side note: you can now tell people you outran a 05 corvette in the autocross. By over a second and a half.

[dusterbd13]

i did? bonecrushers car?

and you have a PM.

i swear the car did not roll this badly before the front end mods i performed at the biginning of summer. my theory is that ive got much more grip, thereby highlighting the next weakness in my chassis, IE the roll stiffness.
so my first stop (cheapest first) is to remake my sway bar mounts and rear spring hangars. second is shocks (i have never liked my KYB's.) third is to increase spring rate, though i really hope one and two are it. i LOVE the way the car rides.

and ben, since i know your one of them engineer types, i assume that youve got data to back up what you sad, and probably a few tech articles that will explain to me why it works like it does. i dont what you to think im doubting you, i just want to learn too before i do womething.

michael

[kmdracer]

Great to see a lowish $$ project here. I'd bet we've all been pestered by murphy a few times on builds. Congrats on working through them.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Sounds like you had an awesome time....

[dusterbd13]

ok. the car is finally back home.

spent some time getting the new dual plane re-machined, painted, port matched, and on. went pretty well, and i had to spend no additional money. still need to fine tune the carb and clean up the car, though. its filty, and the car has a nasty bog now. worse than at the strip.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/0112-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/0122-1.jpg

i did spend some more money though, i bought a spoiler to start my cosmetic makover. it was 157 shipped from e-pay. the seller is really standup. had some issues in shipping (it came broken). so it will be a little while before its fitted and attached. also looking into the stripe package now as well. im going twister style for the stripes and hood treatment.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/0103-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/0093-1.jpg

and the only remaining carnage to fix other than cleaning from run through the hills.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/0132-1.jpg

michael

[DartorDemon]

Kudos on getting a spoiler, copycat. :)

Looks good!

[dusterbd13]

i hope yours fot better than mine.
youts mounted yet?

[DartorDemon]

Not yet, my spoiler is a little rough around the edges so i wanna hit up a body shop to see if they can smooth it out. Or just buy some of the materials and do it myself.

[Bjkadron]

i did? bonecrushers car?

and you have a PM.

i swear the car did not roll this badly before the front end mods i performed at the biginning of summer. my theory is that ive got much more grip, thereby highlighting the next weakness in my chassis, IE the roll stiffness.
so my first stop (cheapest first) is to remake my sway bar mounts and rear spring hangars. second is shocks (i have never liked my KYB's.) third is to increase spring rate, though i really hope one and two are it. i LOVE the way the car rides.

and ben, since i know your one of them engineer types, i assume that youve got data to back up what you sad, and probably a few tech articles that will explain to me why it works like it does. i dont what you to think im doubting you, i just want to learn too before i do womething.

michael

Yes, his car. https://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.php?83358-RTTH-7-Autocross-Times

I replied.. and yes, it didn't have any problems sticking, just rolled a lot...

I found this Afco article on general leaf spring technology, and this other one is specifically on roll steer.
http://www.afcoracing.com/tech_pages/leaf.shtml
http://www.nyracer.com/rearrollsteer.htm

Roll steer is just which way the axle is pointed when the car rolls. Generally minimizing it inspires the most confidence because it doesn't change the way the car feels when driving. Getting the spring closer to level is how you minimize it. That is how Hotchkiss can say that their springs help the roll steer(which they do). If you use shorter rear hangers to lower it, that will increase the angle that your rear springs are running at. but flipping the front hanger and running longer shackles will level out your springs and lower it. Is that all clear? if not I can re-explain.

[rfalker1]

nice project very well done!!! Keep going this is a budget brawler and I am envious micheal

[dusterbd13]

more money spent, more parts collected, more effort going into the car.

spent 55.95 for new sway bar mounts and bushings.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/0085-1.jpg



ordered a set of 3 point retractable seatbelts from http://wescoperformance.stores.yahoo.net/conversion-van-seat-belt.html

they were delivered tonight. hopefully ill get them put in this week. they are a VERY nicely made set of belts. i think i should have orders the 11 inch fixed end instead of the 8 though. well wait and see how they work.

175 for that.



worked some more on carb tuning since the manifold swap, and i cleaned it up. the car is driving much better now, more responsive, lot more low end torque, and it takes less throttle to maintain speed. have to change my entire tuine up from the single plane, though,.

new replacement spoiler has not arrived yet.



and i started working on finally finishing my trunk. got the floor made (still have to cut the access panel for the spare), made cardboard templates for the sides, and created my back "wall".

to so this, i first make a template out of cardboard. make sure it fits right and looks right, then transfer onto appropriate materials.

for the floor, im using 5/8 birch plywood (had half a sheet), for the back wall im using 1/8 paneling (had 1/4 sheet), for the sides im using 1/4 peg board so the ignition and audio can breathe (had half a sheet). ill be covering it all with carpet, and attaching them to the metal of the car with velcro.

heres pics of how far i got over the weekend.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/0044-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/0055-1.jpg



new total (added all upfrom previous updates)

5029.74

more later this week when the belts are installed.



michael

[Bjkadron]

Where did you get the swaybar mounts? And those 3pt seatbelts should help a LOT!

[dusterbd13]

its actually an energy suspension "conversion" kit. the bushings are only 15/16 though, and my sway bar is 1 1/8. didnt realize that when i ordered from summit. so ill have to get some new new bushings.
and i drove the car last night with the three point in the drivers side. its really freaking nice.
michael

[85coupe50]

Cool project... Was there a build thread for your S15? The one in your signature is broke. Curious about what you had done to it too...

[dusterbd13]

umm.. search project drivabeater. that should come up.

ill try to fix the link tonight

[Bjkadron]

Oops... you could just bore them out. It helps if you freeze them first...

[dusterbd13]

wow, its been a while since Ive updated. Ivee been pretty busy doing a partial resto on a 79 corvette pace car. 52koriginall mile car thats been outside for the last decade or so. the seals had started leaking, trashing the interior. so the wife asked me if id be willing to take it on as a resto for her husbands retirement present.
before:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/0091-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/0141-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/0171-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/0083-1.jpg
during (im not done yet):
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/0044-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/0022-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/022-1.jpg


got my new spoiler in yesterday. finally. this one is the quality the last one should have been. seller (CNS mopar parts) stated that they think the last one popped out of the mold, and wasn't why it wasnt alldon'tt great. donrecommend id reccomend these guys to anyone or not. just....eh. they did stand behind their product and make things right, so ill give them bonus points for that,. pretty rare these days.

so i test fitted the new spoiler last night, taking a page from dartordemons play book and using blue painters tape didn'tld it on. picturese any picdidn'tm though. didnt have my camera with me.

i also FINALLY instaseat beltsestcoyou'reatbelts. if youre plannioriginaltain the origonal mounting points, get the 11 inch buckles. i used the threaded mounbuckles the ford buckels built inseat beltsts.
the seatbelts work great, and very comfortable, and lock right up when you jump on the brakes or corner hard.

installed pics:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/0171-2.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/0161-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/018-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/0192-1.jpg

and im also still working on reducing the wind noise. noticedmyoday while driving that my rear edge of weatherstripping was moving around going down the highway. that cant be helping.
so while i had my weatherstripping stuff out for the vette, i glued the rear edge into place.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/023-1.jpg
a question:
on the roofrails, how is the weatherstripping supposed to look? up on the leading edge at the a-pillar, inside of the car, the weamoldingpping wraps around the moulding like the picture shows. further back along the rochannelctually goes up in the channell entirely. which way is correct? or are both of them?
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/024-1.jpg

budget is the same.

i hope all of you have a merry Christmas if i dont talk with you before then.

Michael

[dusterbd13]

well, got the fenders fixed from where the heavily contacted during run through the hills.

my buddy bill owns a body shop (the collision center in albemarle, nc). we have an agreement worked out, where I'm not allowed to touch things that are painted, straight, or shiny. in return, hes not allowed to touch things with electricity. its a good trade for us. I'm helping do some repairs to the new yorker i wired for him (he damaged the harness when he pulled the car back down to the frame to change the entire color by two shades), and repaired the bulkhead connector on a 73 roadrunner 340 (stopped running while it was in for a repaint. he couldn't call the owner and say it was done with it not running) in exchange for him straightening and rolling and re-painting the fender lips on the front. heres pics (didn't cost me anything but time)


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/0531-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/0521-1.jpg


theres miles of clearance now. enough that i can comfortably fit 275/40/17's with the wheel spacer removed. i just may do it.....


he also talked me out of the spoiler. so thats going up for sale. ill take 100 plus shipping (probably around 15 bucks)


tonight, i pulled the carb apart, cleaned it all up, richened the secondary side by two jet sizes, leaned the primary side by one jet size. well see how that does. did find some completely plugged passages.


Saturday, if all goes according to plan, ill be getting the car tinted. the guy that bought my s10 does tint, and part of the sale agreement was for a tint job. now that he cant figure out a problem with the truck, he finally has to pony up for it.


on the big news front, Ive decided I'm going with a five speed and EFI on this car. I'm trying to talk my best friend into letting his TKO500 go to me for a reasonable price (less than 4K on it) so i can fab up my own mounts, modify my bell housing, and slide it in.

I'm also currently collecting my parts for the EFI setup i want to run. Ive already got a used painless performance TPI harness from a vette race car that i took off, a slightly "blemished" 7737 ECM from the same vette, and 30LB ford racing injectors i paid 10 bucks for. now i need to find a decent and cheap 4bbl throttle body, get some injector bungs installed in my Victor Jr, and find a small block lean burn distributor. also need a set of magnum fuel rails. and a fuel pump. and other stuff I'm not thinking of.

I'm hoping to pull off the EFI and five speed swaps for under 2.5K total. its gonna be tough to do, but I'm confident in my scrounging abilities.


tomorrow, Ive got a half day at work, so I'm going to work on fine tuning the carb, and Friday on finally getting my door glasses adjusted properly. lets keep our fingers crossed that my plans work out.


on a side job front, check out the vette. all Ive got to do is install the new classic auto sound stereo, wash, vacuum, and armor-all it, and give it back to sue and her husband. I'm pleased with how it came out.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/0501-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/0491-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/0471-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/0461-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/0451-1.jpg

Michael

[Bjkadron]

Wow... Rolling the fenders really opens up a lot of space...

[dusterbd13]

best guess is about 1/2 inch on the outside edge of the tire.
should prevent another rubber chunk eye injury, ben.

[dusterbd13]

well, i had a little spare time last night to start adjusting my door glass better. got all the drivers side pulled apart, regreased, etc. started adjusting. realized i needed to move the pane about 1/4 inch forward in the opening. other than that, it was fitting great. so i shut the door, and figured id get to it tonight. turned off the lights and heat in the shop, went to bed.


after work today, i came home all excited to finish both doors tonight and take the car up to get it tinted tomorrow.

this is what greeted me when i opened the door to the shop.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/0013-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/0024-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/0045-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/0056-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/0077-1.jpg


i was really proud of myself for not loosing my temper or even cussing when i saw that. Ive really been working on that lately.


my only theory, and its a WAG, is that i somehow put tension on the glass with the new adjustments, and there was a tiny chip or imperfection in it. with the thermal expansion/contraction, and the new structural stresses, it shattered. again, just a WAG. so i ordered a new AMD door glass from summit tonight for 183.41 shipped. should be here next week. i also canceled my appointment to get it tinted. no point when i don't have all the windows in the car anymore.


i also took some pics of the spoiler on the car so I could make a sale thread on it, and show folks what it looked like. as i was removing it to put it in a box for shipping, i dropped it. chipped the corner a little more. still didn't cuss!!!! i think i will have to make my own spoiler. thats about 1 inch wider, a little more laid back, and a little less curved.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/0123-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/0142-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/0133-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/0113-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/0086-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/0094-1.jpg


so, tonight was expensive and crappy, but still a good night due to what i DIDN'T do.

current budget total is 5213.15


Michael

[chunger]

so, tonight was expensive and crappy, but still a good night due to what i DIDN'T do. l

Hey man, we've ALL been there! Sometimes you just have to laugh at what life throws at you.

[67TXStang]

I just finished reading all your posts about your Duster. I really like the project and the approach you are taking. Nice job.

[dusterbd13]

thanks !

this weeks update is definately more positive than last week.
got my new window in. i had some reservations after reading about the quality of the AMD glass on the forums. but i was pleasantly suprised by what arrived. i had read about splotchy ting, incorrect shape, wavyness in the glass, etc. found NONE of that with my glass. seems a little thinner than the origonal, and the edges are not nearly as nice and beveled, but i only noticed that after really looking HARD at the origonal on the other side. all in all, money well spent. (and yes, i know its really dirty in the pics. i didnt have any paper towels to clean it with that night.)

i also took the opportunity to clean, adjust, and relubricate everything in the door per the factory service manual. the window operation isnt perfect, but its a far cry better than any other time in my history with this car. it was almost pleasant to put it all back together. for the rubber spacers on the bolts that go through the glass, i cut down some vacuum tube that i had laying around. worked great. still need to really test drive the ar and see if i have any whistles or new noises going down the road, make some anti ratte covers for the door lock and latch rods, re-soun ddeaden the door, and reinstall the interior side. but that will wait until after the higher speed test drive.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/0014-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/0025-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/0035-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/0046-1.jpg
the etching was a really nice detail. its not on any of my other glasses, but it probably should be.

i also finished the weatherstripping reinstall, gluing, and adjustments etc on this door. still have to do the passengers side the same way. maybe tomorrow, but im only doing one door at a time.
i had no luck finding a good picture of how its supposed to be, but did get to look at a survivor car the other week so i was able to figure out how to fix mine. took decent pictures for reference when someone else needs the info.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/0057-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/0068-1.jpg

and also started mocking up my console ideas. ive been looking to see if i could find a console with an armrest that was the right height and shape to fit the style of car that this is. i managed to be given a pair of 1979 AMC AMX consoles, one with the optional rallye gauge packages. im doing all my mockups and tweaks with the junk one, and will do my final version with the good one if i like it.

so, heres pics.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/0078-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/0087-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/0095-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/0114-1.jpg

the shifter hole will line up perfect wheen i do the five speed swap, as that will put the shifter outlet in the center of the trans tunnel. still cant figure out what 4 gauges i would run down there, though. maybe vacuum, AF ratio, oil temp, and nitrous pressure? dunno. decision for another day, i guess.

the leading edge of the console by the dash still needs to go towards the center of the car, but i cannot do that right now due to the current shifter location. i think for this junk console, im going to cut that side out, build a temporary plate to fill most of the hole, and build a side for it around the factory shifter. then all just refinish ans swao in the other one when i do the five speed.

what do you all think?

michael

[Bjkadron]

I think it looks good!

[dusterbd13]

ok, update time.

and admitting that this upgrade process has snowballed into much more than origonally anticipated. i think by the time im done here, not much of the origonal build will be left. or my bank account.



when last i updated, i was working on the center console ideas. origonally i was going to use the AMX console and gauges. i cut the junk one up, and drove it for about 100 miles one day. hated it. with a passion. so i threw the junk one out. kept the good one and gauges just in case i ever needed it.

i put my lunchbox between the seats normally to act as an armrest. so i got to thinking of making my own console the size of my lunchbox, and adding some cupholders and storage in the process.



using some 3/8 plywood i had left over, i glued up a box to try out.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/030-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/029-1.jpg

i have the cupholders clamped up at work, drying.

id like some feedback on the shape of the center part of the console. just seems way too square to me.



i also went up to hancock fabrics and bought some vynil. cost me 25 bucks for 6 yards worth, which will be enough to cover the console, some of the trunk close out panels, and the custom door panels that im planning on making. (yes, its snowballed into custom interior stuff now.)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/0115-1.jpg



more pics when i make up my mind on the console shape, and actually get some time to work on it.



on my last update, i also made the claim that i finally got my windows adjusted properly. i didnt, really. had a lot of wind noise from the rear quarter window to the front window seal. after running through EVERY adjustement i could, i still had the noise. finally broke down and spent 7 dollars on some weatherstripping from lowes to put in the gap. (the ribbed part you can see in the picture) NOW theres no wind noise. i swear the reproduction roofrail seals are to blame. they cant be made right to give me this much of a fight.

i also repained the door emblems before i put them back in.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/0058-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/028-1.jpg



on my last few drives, i smelled burning oil on the passengers side. i had assumed it was a leaking intake manifold rear seal leaking down on the header. so i started pulling the intake. luckily before i got too far, i noticed where all the oil had gotten to. figured out it was the calve cover gaskets.

ive had a set of finned aluminum cal custom valve covers for this car since the mid 90's. when i redid the car this last time, i went back to the stock covers as i didnt want it to look like something that wasnt stock. been thinking off and on about reinstalling the cal-customs. this was my motivation.

when i pulled them put of storage, they looked REALLY bad. needed a lot of work.

so i broke out my old harbor freight buffer, rouges, and wheels and went to town.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/0015-1.jpg

10 hours later, i had them and a 280z valve cover done. (the 280z cover is for my best friend, whos building one)

side by side pic with the stockers

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/0047-1.jpg



turns out that these made contact with my intake manifold. the simple solution was this:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/0105-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/0124-1.jpg

cost me 45 bucks and had to be special ordered. works perfect, though.

to get these on, i also had to buy an oil fill cap, breather, elbow, bolts, and drill and baffle the drivers side for the PCV valve.14 bucks for all of that. also 4 dollars worth of 3/8 rubber line.

once i got them on, i realized i had no more plug wire separators. ive looked at the made4you wire looms in summit for years. so i ordered them. very nice product, especially for only 35 bucks.

put my 7 mil parts store wires in them, and was not happy with the result.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/0037-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/0048-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/0027-1.jpg



so down at autozone, they stock MSD street fire cut to fit wires. bought them for 45. still dont have them on, though. also got 16 worth of fresh plugs. fidured it was good time to do it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/0134-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/0153-1.jpg

havent got them in yet. on the plans for this week.



lastly, ive amassed more parts for my EFI conversion. all of it cost me 85 at pull-a-part today.

got a fresher ECM (7727 interchange)

5.9 magnum throttle body

5.9 magnum fuel rails (and installed my free 30lb injectors)

lean burn dist and the parts o convert it to GM HEI style computer control, new oil pressure switch

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/0181-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/0193-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/0201-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/0221-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/0231-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/026-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/025-1.jpg



question. does anyone have a source for an AN adapter version of this fitting?

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/027-1.jpg



so, thats all for now. hoping to get the plugs and wires finished this week so i can get it cleaned up for my wife and i's trip to the beach for our anniversiary in two weeks.



new budget total: 5489.15



michael

[ALLstrokedOUT]

Awesome progress! i saw you were looking into efi a bit ago. But let me get this straight-that ecm is from a chevy, like an LT? also, are you concerned about the tuning and the restriction of the throttle body? Ive admired your engine compartment for years now, i remember looking at it before i even started on mine to get some motivation, and it just keeps getting cleaner! keep up the great work!

[dusterbd13]

thanks, tim.
im not really concerned about the throttle body restriction. if it proves to be one, i can get it re-machined and bored to something like a 54 or 60MM. again, not worried.
the ECM is a chevy piece, used on l98 and lt1 corvettes, camaros, and millions of FWD cars with 60* v6's. very versitile, well supported, and well hacked ecm. used onb on my s10 when i built it, used a couple on some track cars, etc. its also wetherproof, for underhood applications. not necessary for this install, but i have a painless tpi harness that i removed from a track car that went a different way setup for this ecm. otherwise i would have used a 7730 for the smaller case. same ECM, different case, plugs, and size.

michael

[ALLstrokedOUT]

Ah very cool, so it looks like there will be very little to no learning curve with this setup for you then..thats always a plus!

[dusterbd13]

nah, not too much of a learning curve on the install. will be interesting integrating the 8 year newer dodge sensors to the GM ECM, and learning how to utilize all the things thois ECM can do though. it can control electric fans, the AC system, a HUD, shift light, and a few other things im forgetting at the moment. im hoping to use most of these. would really like getting a HUD to install in the car, but seriously doubt that will happem amy time in the near future.

the tuining, on the other hand, is where the learning curve will be. ill try it on my own, starting with a L98 corvette stock tune. go from there. if its too hard, ill call les and pay the man to tune it. a good computer tune is worth every penny.
still need to get my fuel system and injector bungs.
im ordering the ones from ross machine that you suggested. thanks for that.

michael

[ALLstrokedOUT]

..I cant take all the credit on the ross machine, i bugged mrn2obelvedere to find out about them..I also bought one of their Q45 throttle body mounts like he did too (i more or less copied mrn2obelvedere's intake components too). They have some good products at ross' machine though. Im taking a welding class, hopefully ill get some tig experiance in there so either me or my friend can tig all my stuff together. Good luck 'till then

[dwest12387]

I envy you so much. I have been working on my Nova for almost a year. I wish now that I would have built mine in steps and not all at once. Keeping focus and momentum up.

[dusterbd13]

well, the rebuild that i did before this process took me five years. so now, i try to limit it to weekend projects. if its a project that i can get done in a few nights, im happy. i just dont want to have my car down for too long these days. any time i have a car down for over three weeks, it gets awfully hard to find the motivation to get back to work on it.

michael

[dusterbd13]

i cant believe its taken me a month to build a set of plug wires and change plugs. granted anniversary, daily needing a suspension rebuild, sick, resigning at work and starting a new job, working on other peoples cars, taking a night schools welding class, and replacing a hot water tank will kinda get in the way. but it runs and drives again.

i will say im pleased with how it came out, though.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/0049-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/0059-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/0079-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/0088-1.jpg

on the welding class front, i made my first project out of some exhaust parts i had laying around. what the idea is is that they are baffles, much like the ricers use in their straight through mufflers to silence them a bit. my hope is that it gets rid of some of the resonance and drone at cruise, without restricting power. well see, but the price was right.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/0096-1.jpg

[Bjkadron]

Looks good! really interested in the EFI stuff..

[dusterbd13]

if it ever comes back from the machine shop.......

ill get excited about it then. until then, though, im working on fiding the time and peace of mind to drive it.

have a poker run to go play at saturday, so ive gotta get it cleaned up. maybe wedsday. its suppsed to be 8- here.

michael

[dusterbd13]

So Ive been really busy. Ive now switched jobs, and am learning a new service than the one where i had been for the last 7 years. nice change, and better for my family, but scary as all get out.

Ive also started picking up at the shop again. still awfully slow, but the ones Ive been doing are for a good cause, and also a couple for long time customers. did sign on a 67 GTO (again) at the car wash today. if you go back in the thread, you'll see pics of it. hes got some wiring gremlins for me to find now that hes driving it more.



anyway, over the last few weeks, Ive been helping my best friend on his car. it hasn't been anything more than a "somewhat" rolling shell in years. we got it running Friday night. put the drive train back in it for the first time in years a couple of Fridays ago. its been really nice working with him and spending time in the shop with my best friend. i also miss doing resto work, like cleaning, rebuilding, and painting parts. not just fab and upgrade.

i took some pics. i know its not a mopar, but i figure I'm proud of this thing, and of him, so ill show it off. i know he wouldn't.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/001-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/002-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/003-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/008-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/006-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/0039-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/0017-1.jpg



i also got to spend all day yesterday with my dad getting his 60 vette out of storage. i rebuilt the carbs for him in the fall, and yesterday we got them on, tuned, changed the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel in the tank, adjusted the drums, repaired the wipers, and blew the cobwebs off. that was very, very good for my soul. i grew up working with my dad, and don't often get to anymore \ what with the wife, kid, two jobs, house, etc. i really miss doing that.

no pics of his vette. if you look through my thread, you can see it under the cover in front of the lift at the shop.



and now, back to the duster and mopar stuff.





a few weeks ago (maybe a month? i really dunno.) my brother (who rides motorcycles. bought his first one the day the divorce went through) invited me to go on a poker run with his motorcycle club and girlfriend. the run invited cars as well, so i figured i wouldn't be the only four wheeled vehicle. i figured wrong. but the bike guys still accepted me and appreciated the car.

we covered about 200 miles that day. really a nice time, even with the rain and interstate parts. also, i discovered the world of victory bikes and Indians. ( i had no idea they were back. damn they're cool) my wife promptly gave me a hell no to buying a bike. probably safer that way. had a really great time, and the car ran great. was a good feeling to get it back out of the garage and drive it. it was also really nice to spend time with my brother, and i like his new girlfriend a lot better than i liked his ex-wife.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/0174-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/0194-1.jpg



on the build part, Ive got a couple of things going on.

1. EFI. I got my manifold back from my machinist (Hollis Page at HP Engines in Norwood, NC.) he and i did some mopar horse-trading, so all it cost me was for my fuel injector mounting bungs. 32 bucks. bought the Ross machine ones from ebay. i took it into my Thursday night welding class, where my instructor is teaching me TIG on it. well, I'm attempting to learn. right now I'm more watching than anything else. and holding it at the proper angles.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/00510-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/0028-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/0016-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/0232-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/0213-1.jpg



hopefully well finish the welding next week, and then i can start porting and polishing and shaping once this riding lawn more fiasco is over.



also, i revisited the spoiler, as i just wasn't sure still. and no one has bought it yet. shaped it and fitted it, as well as "mounted" it. my mind is still not made up about it. i would like everyone on here that reads this to voice their opinion, whether it be a simple yes or no, or an explanation of why. i just want a group consensus.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/0106-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/0097-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/0089-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/00710-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/0069-1.jpg



lastly, i washed it today. and drove it to church for the easter egg hunt with my little girl. ill probably give it a whole hog detail job (top, underneath, inside and out) over easter weekend. try out dads porter cable buffer that he got. seeing how his cars came out, I'm excited to refresh the finish on mine.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/041-1.jpg



Michael

[ryeguy2006a]

Looks great. You are doing a lot of what I would like to do with my car. EFI, AC, etc. Looks really good.

[chaz75]

i like the spoiler, i say keep it.

[dusterbd13]

so ive had a little change of heart over the last few weeks. i watched the movie courageous with my wife, and really got to thinking and praying about where my priorities have been lately.
the answer was, not where they should be. ive neen far too focused on work, my hobbies, my finances, etc. not the real purpose of this car, or my calling, or my family.
so im sitting it aside for the summer for the most part. the working on it, that is.
i bought my new tremec trans, am finishing up my intake, and sitting them on the shelf for this winter.

this summer im going to focus on my family. end of story.
the plans for the car, since this is a car forum are this:
keep it neat and clean.
drive the piss outta it.
repeat.

my goal by the end of summer is to double the milage number the odometer currently reads. with my daughter, wife, or friends along for most of those miles.

i spent a weekend or two getting the car detailed (buffed, waxed, glazed, polished, armoralled, vacuumed, degreased, etcc. iven did back to black on all the weatherstrippings). first time the car has really had anything more than a quickie cleaning and waxing since i built it. it came out GREAT!.

first show in a few years (power parking) is this coming weekend. going with my dad, a good friend of mine and his dad, and possibly my wife and daughter.

heres pics of the car. parts pics will be up later this summer, as well as an ongoing documentary about what im doing WITH the car instead of what im doing to the car. and i have also decided once and for all that the spoiled is not going on the car. just doesnt fit very well.
next two build steps, assuming that nothing breaks this summer, is 5 speed and EFI.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/0017-2.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/0039-2.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/00411-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/00610-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/00810-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/0107-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/0125-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/0143-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/0155-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/0202-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/0214-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/0233-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/0242-1.jpg

that wa after two 12 hour days of cleaning. did not get the wheels yet. they need to be compuunded and cleaned real good. gonna do that one night this week after the family goes to bed.

[DartorDemon]

I love this car and i have 2 Qs:

1. where did you get those cool spark plug wire clips/holders?
2. what header bolts are those? they look interesting.

[dusterbd13]

1. made for you wire looms. great product. bit of a pain to build the new wires and install everything, but once theyre done, well worth it.
2. stage 8 locking bolts. never had another gasket failure due to loosening bolts with these. heat cycle and retorque 3 times, put the locs on, and forget abnout the header bolts. great prduct, and i wond install a set of header without using these. customer cars, my cars, doesnt matter. they all get them.

michael

[Glenn]

We have also seen the movie Courageous, it will give you a wake-up-call. Good call on your part, GO and enjoy life now! ... that's what my wife and I are doing.

Glenn

[srh3trinity]

Courageous is a great movie. My family is the sole reason my project is moving as slow as Christmas and I am 100% content with that. The car is looking great, nice and shiny!

[bonecrrusher]

Nice story - glad to hear you are enjoying your car WITH the family.

I think the car w/OUT spoiler looks just fine the way it is.

[dusterbd13]

thanks guys.

[dusterbd13]

so the wife and i actually entered a car show. i know, shocking that i parked it and sat out a lawn chair.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/035-1.jpg


but it was for a good cause!!! this was a charity show to keep the bible classes being taught at a local high school. they get no state funding, just what they can raise. my wife and i, my friend Dallas and his wife, Dustin and his fiancée, and Dallas's dad and cousin were there. good times were had by all. except for my wife, who got really cold. she holed up in the back seat after the Judges came by and worked on puzzles.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/037-1.jpg


as the only classic mopar, and one of 3, i brought home a trophy. probably felt bad for me due to being in ford and Chevy country....


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/043-1.jpg


we then spent a while as a group at the waffle house. good times. very good times.


also, figured id throw up some pictures of recent parts purchases for the upcoming winter.

1200 tremec 3550 with 600 miles on it and a steeda triax shifter

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/0176-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/0196-1.jpg


and a purchase that i just HAD to make. it was 55 shipped, which was too much, but Ive been looking for another one of these shift knobs religiously for the last 5 years since i lost my last one in the accident with the black Dakota. this is the only one Ive found for sale at any price. Ive only found one other in all that time, and that was in one of the cars at UTI. the shifter stick came with the knob. maybe ill use it with the tremec if it works out.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/0215-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/0251-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/0251-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/0391-2.jpg


its been nice this week, so Ive been driving my car for work. roughly 50-60 miles a day.

the AC has stopped working. needs to be fixed. gonna take it to a local shop and see if they can check the freon charge. it will work and blow fairly cold if you jump the binary switch, but not without doing that. so its either a bad switch, or low freon.


Michael

[DartorDemon]

Why does a highschool need a religious studies class? Surely kids should be spending their education time on more useful endeavors. Side note: so Happy they abide by the constitution by not funding.

Anyhow, Are you keeping the torsion bars with that tranny? That always looks to be a massive fabrication job with having to re-do the upper crossmember area.

[Bjkadron]

Great Choice to spend more time with your family. And the Duster looks great! and congrats on the car show award! It is a good cause to support.

[csouth]

Nice Duster, great show for a good cause. I've always been a closet Mopar fan.

[67goatman455]

i say yes on the spoiler

[norway_dartsport]

hi , do you know what youre backspce are ? front and back ? i just ordered hopsters, 17x11 w/6inch backspace rear and 16x8 w/4 inch backspace...

[dusterbd13]

not off the top of my head, no. whatever was stock on the mustang bulitt wheels. i did need a 1 inch s[acer to clear the springs in the rear, and a 3/8 in the front.

i really need to update this, but all i have is more parts. havent even driven it much due to health trouble.

michael

[dusterbd13]

there have really been no updates. i could try to blam,e circumstances, but i tend not to try to lay the blame on other places other than me.
at the beginning of summer, i blew out my knee. its given me trouble off and on over the years, but my daughter and i were playing in the living room and i heard it go POP. wound up getting a boatload of PT and not being able to drive stick for a few months. its finally geting back to normal. as i was in recovery for the knee, i managed to trip a 40 amp breaker with my heart. wound up with a mild heart attack, which pretty much killed the rest of the summer worth of working on the car and cruising.

now, im starting to get back into the swing of things. have gotten the red car driving again, thouigh i am having charging system oddities. which led me to take my freshly restored neon ACR on vacation this past weekend instead of the red car like i had planned.

the only red car updates i really have is that i got my EFI manifold finished welded, my TB adapter bought, a new tpo me set of injectors, and a new pair of front tires. apparently -2/5 degrees of camber kills them on this thing.....

on the short term to do list is find the charging problem, clean it up from extended storage, change the oil, and realign it to something a bit more sane. this winter i plan to do my five speed and EFI swapping, but ive got to get caught up at both jobs and my personal fleet first. gotta rehabv the scoobie, sell the camry, rehab my brithers trans am so he can sell it, service the truck, and change an exhaust manifold in the ACR.

build thread for the ACR
http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/for...d/50461/page1/

[dusterbd13]

So the previous total was 6776.15.



For this update, I will not include the new set of tires I put on, as those are now a wear item.

40 for the throttle body adapter

45 for some welding

11 for the pilot bearing

Sacrificial tranny cross member was free



New total is 6872.15



So as I said in my last update, I’ve been laid out most of the summer. At the beginning of summer, before I blew out my knee, I went down to run to the old south. My best friend and I were there most of the day, just hanging out. I unfortunately didn’t have the money to enter, but it was nice to be there with so many of the PT guys, especially at my home track of Carolina Motorsports Park. Definitely an attendable event next year. Dustin drove most of the way down, just because.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/033-1.jpg

on the way back, I had a couple of bone jarring impacts due to south Carolinas wonderful roads, and a set of railroad tracks that the city forgot to mark as under repair.

These impacts, coupled with excessive inside shoulder wear, broke belts in both front tires.

My local tire guy, Freemans tire and wheel, stood behind his tires even despite the excessive wear and the fact that he KNOWS I autocross/beat on this car. Was able to give me the replacements at his cost. I will recommend him to anyone within driving distance.

The tires were pretty badly worn, and the picture kind of sort of shows how they’re abnormally shaped. It was MUCH more dramatic in person. And really kind of cool to see.....



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/0371-1.jpg



Due to the tire wear, I’ve decided to go back to a little more sane alignment settings. Also hopefully going to make it stick a little better in the process. While I’m at it, I need to finally get my front sway bar mounts that I bought a long time ago installed. Pretty far down on the list of priorities in my life at the moment, though, if I have to be honest.



After blowing out my knee, and then the heart attack (electrically induced. I’m only 30...) the car sat with the new front tires on for a few months. No cover, dirty, etc. it was also having hot start problems and hesitation problems on the way to and from CMP, so I decided that one of my next focuses should be the EFI conversion and five speed swap. The EFI conversion will be much more than just that, as I’m also swapping to a hydraulic roller for less maintenance and more manifold vacuum, rewiring the car, and doing a little gauge cluster work in the process. The 5 speed swap will include new carpets and removing the 4 speed hump for better leg room, as well as reworking my seat brackets and installing additional chassis bracing.



None of this happened due to me being laid up, and then building my daily driven ACR. I paid my welding instructor 45 to finish my intake for me, and scored a magnum to 4bbl throttle body adapter off of dakotar/t.com for 40 bucks. One of my corvette buddies also gave me a set of LS1 injectors left over from his c5 race car for my swap.



When we welded in the bungs, we did some quick and dirty math for the height to install them at, said screw it, and build a very rough jig with a piece of angle iron and a pair of c-clamps. we set the full length bungs on the angle iron that was clamped to the head mating surface, and welded them in. in the process, we made some lumps on the inside of the bungs where the O-rings sit, as well as effectively blocked the entire port.



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/0512-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/0532-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/055-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/034-2.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/036-1.jpg



I worked a little bit before the power outlet tried to kill me on getting the bungs cut to length. Never made much progress. In the last week, I have though. Wound up drilling a hole through the portion of the bung sticking into the runner, then using a spiral cutter bit in my dremel to cut through it. This gets the majority out. Then, using a carbide burr and plenty of WD-40, I ground the remaining stump flat with the intake port roof. Finished it up with some sanding rolls from harbor freight.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/074-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/076-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/078-1.jpg



to take care of the lumps in the O-ring side, I very slowly and carefully ground them down with a tiny little sandpaper roll on the dremel, then finished it with a 120 grit sanding roll in the drill to make it round again. Worked like a charm.



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/00412-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/072-1.jpg



our method of setting the installed height of the injectors was not scientific, or even that well thought out, but by sheer dumb luck, the injector is almost flush with the roof of the intake port, and angled right at the backside of the valve.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/00512-2.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/00712-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/0099-1.jpg



Now I only have 7 more to do, then some massive port work on the rest of the manifold. I want to knife edge the plenum to runner walls, port the plenum to carb flange, and port match further into the port than the 1/4 inch or so that I had done previously. ill then go on to porting and polishing the magnum throttle body unless I find a cheap 1000CFM 4bbl one before then.



On the tremec swap, I actually have been using the archive from moparts for my reference.

http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/clutch/25.html

Asking some questions, the guy that did it in the 440 cuda PM'd me, and I met him over in charlotte to look at how he did it. Very nice guy, and I spent a few hours talking with him. He even gave me a free trannny cross member to cut up. I believe that I will do my t-bar cross member a bit differently than he did by sectioning in extra material to the factory stamping. I will also further reinforce that area with torque boxes, and spar from the sub frame connectors to just next to the t-bar anchors.



So that’s about where I stand at the moment.

We, as a family, drove the car to the millingport corn maze for my birthday last Sunday. Had a very good time there, and my 3.5 year old got to be the line leader for the maze (led me and mommy around for a couple of hours. it was a HOOT! I’d recommend y'all to travel over here and go to it next year. For 7 bucks a head, its 4 hours of good, quality, family friendly entertainment.)



Brother Dustin and I have also instituted what we call "fun car Fridays". We’re driving our pleasure cars on Fridays to work and then out and about afterwards. He went to a cruise night tonight that I had to pass on, due to trying to get a customer’s 02 Trans am finished up. But for the last month or so, I’ve been driving mine every Friday. Sometimes to the site in Lexington, where I make sure to get smiley's bbq (id recommend the skin sandwich. its artery clogging manna from heaven), sometimes to concord, sometimes just around Albemarle, sometimes to charlotte. Have a good time getting looks from people, getting compliments, and leaving work at full throttle. Still really have to fix the carb, or get to the EFI. Hasn’t fixed itself since the start of summer....



So anyway, that’s the update guys. I’m grateful to be able to give on.

[chunger]

Nice update on your progress.

Am I the only one who wants to know more details about how the outlet tried to kill you?

[FRENCHBLUE72]

How did the outlet try to get ya man gotta be same and make sure power is off..

[dusterbd13]

actually plugging in my work laptop is what got me. the power supply had an internal short in the cord. insulation was not cut. i had a wet/sweaty back, on an all metal chair, diretcly on a concrete slab. wasiest path to ground possible short of standing in water....

wound up tripping the 40 amp breaker before it let me go. 1/2 hour later, my chest and arm were still hurting, so my boss sent me to the hospital. 8 hours later my heart returned to normal rythm, and they sent me home. had a mild heart attack, but no permanant cardio damage. still got extremely tired very easily for thenext couple of weeks. but i was able to drive myself home from the hospital 40 miles away, and tried to go to work the nexty morning until the workmans comp guy threw me out.
just a freak accident. no prevention possible that i have been able to find, other than dont sit down while plugging something in.

[dusterbd13]

going autocrossing saturday. finally installing my sway bar monts from LAST DECEMBER!! on friday.



were racing at z-max in concord, nc ifanones interested.

[bonecrrusher]

Michael - look for a blue C6 w/ dark grey wheels.

I will be there - and will have the go pro mounted to the hood.

[dusterbd13]

Looking forward to seeing you agin. Ain't ssen you since run through the hills last year. Want to pit together? And what class you running?

[bonecrrusher]

Michael - i plan on pitting next to the wall thats under the Grand Stands - keeps people away from the cars.

I am registered as SSP - Super Stock Street Prepared basically.

CCR has a forum where I asked about what class - I used to register as ASP.

Thanks,
Craig

[dusterbd13]

craig:
this is my first ccr event in YEARS. primarily due to you, actually. hope its as good a group as tarheel.

ill look for that wall and your car.

michael

[bonecrrusher]

LOL - its fine, blame me!

Honestly this has been the only SCCA Autox that I have been to this year - I've been to the ones on the Power Tour and the GG Charlotte event - but thats about it.

How long of a drive is it for you to Concord?

[dusterbd13]

bout 45 minutes. if i dont get caught behond any tractors.....

granted, ill be going to the far side of concord from me, so maybe 1:15 with traffic and coffee stops.

and honestly, i havent autocrossed since last years run through the hills. havent had any time....

im probably going to be pretty rusty. but, i dont care. im going for stress relief. and to see if i can finish killing the 4 speed before i yank it. its been making the death noises for the last couple of years. havent been able to finish it off, and ill be starting on the tremec swap next month hopefully anyway.

michael

[dusterbd13]

so, time for a no money update:



i finally installed my sway bar mounts.

finally.



and not a moment too soon. the crappy addco mounts had loosened again, and were actually only finger tight when i went to pull them today.



if y'all remember, im now using the energy suspension conversion kit. came with the wrong sway bar bushings, and is unorderable with the 1 1/8 bushings that my bar requires, so i had to buy those additionally. again, its been a year, so that info may be out of date now.



while removing and scrapping the origonal pieces, i found some wear on the mount bushings. as well as permanant deformation duwe to the addco design.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/067-2.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/069-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/071-2.jpg



pretty bad, as they only have about 10k on them.



thenew mounts were not exactly easy to install, either. the plates themselves lined up with the factory k-frame hols nicely on 2 of the 3 holes. the third hole is one youre supposed to drill. i did so, but was unable to get a bolt in there. i will have to remove the LCA's and strut rods to inser that bolt. i tried going in from the bottom, but theres not enough room for a nut and washer combo between the bushing and frame, and not enough clearance to get the bolt through from the top. that being said, i still have twice the fassterners af the addco mounts. i also had to use a ratchet strap tp get everything held in place and aligned properly for the first time, but once toghtened, nothing binds. the rear of the sway bar is pretty close to the control arm, but does not contact. these are much more solid mounts, provinsing better ground clearance in the process.



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/0144-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/0156-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/0165-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/0183-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/0136-1.jpg

older pictures for comparisons sake:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/0242-1.jpg



and ggeneral ground clerance shot:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/0177-2.jpg



while i was under there, i changed the oil. wix filter, 7 quarts of 5-40 rotella-t synthetic, and a little while later.....



cleaned out, cleaned up, and packed for tomorrows autocross:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/0203-1.jpg



im going to try something new tomorrow by taking video for you guys. i have an idea using a gian binder clip, my smartphone, and my sunvison that i can get some pretty bad footage of me driving the event poorly. just so you guys can have a ride along.....



also, if you care, im currently rewiring a 69 olds 442 w-30 convertable for a customer. i have pics if anyone wants to see them...



budget stays the same.

[bonecrrusher]

Michael - check my thread for some vids - I got some of you launching.

Here are the pics of your car that I took, and that I found on the forum:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMAG4117-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMAG4116-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMAG4115-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/DSC_0086X3-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/DSC_0083X3-1.jpg

[dusterbd13]

well, if you were hoping i actually got video, i hate to have to disapoint you.



my testing of the binder clip/sunvisor/smartphone combo worked perfectly. the problem was that SCCA would not allow me to run it. they require fixed mounts for all cameras.



i left out of the house saturday at about 6AM for the autocross. nice morning, though a little chilly. car was running great. git up there, met a bunch of nice guys, then decided to walk the course a few times so i wouldnt get lost like i always do.



this coure was HUGE.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/0018-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/00310-1.jpg

most of the fast guys were taking in the mid 60 second range to complet. my fastest time of the day was a 79 and change, but was fast enough to top a c6 corvette and a shelby cobra to name a couple. we also had probably 125 cars turn out.



the duster had some carb issues on the big sweepers, and was much more controllable in second gear than first. i asked for an instructor first run, and got the head novice instructor that runs a mild 66 mustang. really cool guy that helped me a ton. we had a ball running it for all it was worth. i ave to say that there was less body roll with the new front sway bar mountsm and the car was much more controllable. a local photographer runs a website calles outsidethegarage.com, and was there taking pictures. i copied the two from his website of my car.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/DSC_0086L-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/DSC_0083L-1.jpg



craig (AKA bonecrusher on the pro-touring forum) was there, and we hung out most the morning. very cool guy, and nice to spend time with. he got some videos of my launching the duster in his thread, and also some good footage of the course. https://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.php?64496-2005-Chevy-Corvette-build-amp-upgrades-amp-Nova-parts-donater-thread&p=949418#post949418



ui was joking with him all morning about breaking my tranny. its been making not-too-happy noises for a long time now, and i just havent had the time or motivation for my tremec swap. our running joke was that if i broke it, id HAVE to finally swap it.



well, i broke it. leaving the evnt, the trans was making some very loud grinding/crunching/howling noises. finally locked into second gear in mt pleasant, about 20 miles from home. i no longer can get it out of that gear at all. and theres a spreading puddle of gear oil under the car on my garage floor.



is it sad that im proud of killing an a833 in the process of beating a factory five cobra in the autocross course???

[dusterbd13]

previous total was 6872.15


this week, we add 260 for a new throttle body.


new total is 7132.15



so, let me tell you a little story.


it all starts with my buddy in Columbia a month ago. i was planning on going to visit him, and every time i travel, i check craigslist for deals where I'm going. sometimes i score, sometimes i don't. well, i downloaded the craigslist app to my smart phone. up came an add for a 1000cfm Holley throttle body that had never been run, just bolted on. for 250. i checked the price on summit, and it was a 530 throttle body. at the time, i had just purchased the adapter for my magnum throttle body, and KNEW it would not flow enough air, no matter how much i ground on it. so i waited. two weeks later, the add was still up. so i e-mailed him. he called me back, and we got to talking. really nice guy, building a Pontiac that he decided to stuff an LS into instead of injecting the 455. so he was selling his injection stuff. he had bought this, bolted it to the intake, and stopped. never got any further. so i asked him for his address before i headed to Columbia. turns out he was in Georgia. after a couple more weeks of indecision, i decided to do what i tell my customers, and "spend the good money". so i didn't try to beat him up on price, and gave him money for shipping, etc.


this is what i received:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/00910-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/0117-1.jpg


very well made piece by the looks of it. all the springs ride on Teflon washers, the shafts are all running on bearings, good machining. no instructions, and throttle plates that are progressive. as in they work like a double pumper. i have the feeling that when the "secondaries" open, its really going to screw up my VE and TPS tables. so i need to figure out a way to make them a 1:1 ratio for opening. maybe Monday ill call Holley and see if can get the instructions for this thing for some hints, unless someone has any for me.


i also spent the week ordering tranny parts. having spec make me a custom clutch, and ordered my bolt in cross member solution. both of these purchases fall into the "spend the good money" category.


tonight after finishing the 442, i spent some time on my porting job after cleaning up the shop and getting my truck running again. (leaking injector o-rings in the TBI, and a bad coolant temp switch)


finished one port completely, and got the rest of the excess bungs cut off.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/0157-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/0137-1.jpg


hope y'all had a good thanksgiving.


Michael

[dusterbd13]

its been like an early christmas around here these past two weeks. a very expensive early christmas, but a good one.



first up, budget before was 7132.15



since i got the 442 done, i spent the payday. well qualify these two purchases under spending the good money.



first, i ordered my new clutch kit. spec stage 2+. used a throwout bearing for a late 90's jeep 4.0 5 speed wrangler, as it fits the tremec and mopar fork together like it was made to. also had them build my disc with a 10 spline pattern, and the pressure playt for the mopar. 10.5 clutch, good to 600 horse on slicks. will give me room to grow for when i get the rest of the car sorted enough for a centrifugal supercharger. this set me back $440. ive used probably 10-12 spec clutches in various cars over the past decade since i opened my own buisness. great clutches for abuse. the stage 2 thats in the car now has had great pedal effort (very light), no chatter, and bever slipped. i could have gotten away with just a disc swap, but decided that this was a big enough job already, and id like to do it with all new parts. would NOT want to have to change clutches again. i delt with matt rocksvold down there for the whole order. great guy, and a mopar fanatic to boot. id recommend him to anyone calling spec.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/0108-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/0118-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/0127-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/0138-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/0145-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/0158-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/0166-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/0178-1.jpg



i also dealt with tony edler, of www.globaloverdrive.com for my crossmember. i had origonally planned on making my own, but decided to spend the good money. this is the newest crossmsmber for the tremec swaps on the market, and is designed to retain the structural rigiodity of the t-bar crossmember. im probably still going to stitch weld the t-bar crossmember to the floor pan if i can get the undercoating off and get a good weld, just for anal-retentiveness sake. this set me back $241, and came with all the nuts and bolts, as well as the trans tunnel template for cutting. he has been very helpful, and a bery nice guy to talk to on the phone. the crossmember came well welded, with interlocking tabs, and powedercoated to boot. nice piece. looking forward to seeing how it works.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/00911-1.jpg



i also dropped the input bearing retainer off at the machine shop last night. hollis page at hp engines (of engine masters fame) is turning it down to fit in the stock hole on my lakewood bellhousing.



also, i got the steel for my trans tunnel patch. it was free. i dont have a picture, but go look at the top of your dryer, and youll get the idea of where it came from.



all thats left to secure is:

mustang pilot bearing for making the hybrid

trans rubber isolation mount

mustang electrical connectors for the tremec

gear oil



new budget total: 7813.15



im still debating yanking the motor to fix my leaking pan gasket and give everything a good cleaning while im at it. i just really, really dont want to pull the motor. ive got enough things to do and stress without adding that.



also, need advice:

i have never successfully dialed in a bellhousing. id like to get this one right. how in the heck do i do that?





and y'all make sure to enjoy those that you love during christmas. and every other day of the year too. theyre the best GIFTS you'll ever get. (a gift is freely given, with no expectations of return. those that love us dont have to, they choose to. same with those that we love. sermon done now...)



michael

[dusterbd13]

so the 4 speed is NOT completely dead.


found while changing the rear tires and wheels tonight (ADD and sick facination with what actually broke) that the nuts had backed off the shift levers, allowing the forks to go where they shouldnt have, the linkage to jam, and the tranny to lock itself down. the tranny will need to be opened up and checked out, but im assuming its rebuildable since the noises are much less violent now, and it has all 5 gears again (4 forward, 1 reverse). moved it under its own power. the puddle of gear oil: the rear seal no longer does. at all.


so ill be posting that, the clutch, driveshaft, crossmember, and hurst shifter up for sale. someone make me an offer i cant refuse.....


i think that some of the noises are coming from the rear wheel bearings again, though, so well see what i uncover when i get the tremec in. hoping to get the car down to the lift christmas eve, and start tearing it apart over the holidays. if the rear end is even THINKING about giving me any trouble, im putting an 8,8 explorer piece in.


merry christmas, y'all.


and yes, im putting the steelies and pie pans back on for kicks. think ill even autocross it like that....


Michael

[dusterbd13]

im a bit whooped, but figured id update. budget to be fixed later....





brother dustin and i yanked the interior and trans tonight. the car has worse oil leaks than i realized, which made the job pretty messy. definately doing the pan gasket and rear main while its apart on the lift......



only snags, other than mess and stuck fastners, were really of my own making. some things that i looked at and questioned myself on why i did them that way, etc. came apart pretty easy, except for the exhaust. i had to cut it. ill use some band clamps to put it back together when im done.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/0205-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/0109-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/0119-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/0146-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/0205-1.jpg



also, i sold the 4 speed for 475. figured that pretty good for a unit thats got some gear noises, etc.



also bought some new carpets, as the 4 speed hump is going away for some more legroom. i bought from stockinteriors.com, also opting for the extra expense mass backing. was shocked when it was ACC carpet that arrived. the mass backing makes it pretty nice, but i will definately have to use a heat gun to make it more pliable for a good fit.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/0167-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/0184-1.jpg



dustin noticed something that i thought was pretty cool when we got the trans down. theres rocks up inside the crossmember!! just goes to show im not afraid to get it dirty driving it....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/0261-1.jpg



lastly, some 15 inch wheel fitment pics. i put them back in storage, as i wasnt feeling it....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/0204-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/0235-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/0223-1.jpg





ill be spending the weekend and next week doing this swap. look for regular, almost real-time updates. hoping to have it driving by the middle of the week.



michael

[bonecrrusher]

Looking good Michael!!

[dusterbd13]

alright, budget first

previous total: 7813.15

subtract 500 for the tranny parts sales

brings car to 7313.15



now, the money ive spent:

71.15 at summit for oil pan gasket, exhaust clamps, and rear main seal

215 for mass backed carpet from previous post

39 for trabs mount and mustang roller pilot from o'reilleys

37 fpr three quarts of redline at bradly auto parts (in indian trail, just outside charlotte. support your local speedshop, or no one else will. bradly sells most the stuff i need cheaper and quicker than mail order. also, those guys are a weath of knnowledge, and own pageland dragstrip. really, really great guys. go see them. now.)

and i traded my old spoiler for teh floorpan and crossmember stuff i needed.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/0236-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/0252-1.jpg



so after selling my truck this morning to the same guy that bought my old track s10, i went on down to the shop. the only plans for today were to get the bellhousing, flywheel, clutch, etc out, and get the oil pan drpped out. i didnt expect a six hour fight, and having to remove the headers.

had to pull the header to head bolts out to allow the engine to rotate down enough for the lakewood bell to clear the trans tunnel. the TTI's were sitting on the t-bars, making it impossible. i also hat to pull them outward to clear the pan rails so i could removine it. the stage 8 locking header blts all came apart really easy. very, very glad i neversiexed all that. headers were off, and i got to looking at the TTI gasket on the passengers side verses the copper i have on the drivers side. the copper blocks roughly 25% of the exhaust port. holy crap. gonna have to fix that....



also found that my new idler arm is alread loose, my rag joint os loose, annd that i have some slagged wiring at the firewall bulkehead. thats just great.....



but the good news is its all out. bellhousing came down with a minimum of fuss after dropping the headers, amd the clutch/flywheel came out nice and easy. figured id show the durability of the spec stage 2+ after 10k miles, tons of dragstrip passes, hundreds of autocross runs, and thousands of powershifts. minimal wear. heck, teh flywheel still had surfacing marks on it....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/0216-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/00912-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/00713-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/00514-1.jpg



i then went to drop the leaking oil pan. this is a nice, 7 quart kevco with custom fabbed pan rail reinforcements, trap doors, and a windage tray. great product, and i remember it being very cheap for all the features. fuit the car with no mods whatsoever, and ive NEVER experienced oil starvation.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/0198-1.jpg



getting it out was another story entirely. it was a nightmare, even with a lift. the reason is this:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/0179-1.jpg



what do you notice missing? look close....



those are ARP 12 point bolts. when i built the motor, i used POR15 engine painting kit, great, durable product as you can tell by the pictures previously. problem is, on the bottom of the engine, it filled ALL the notches on the bolts. making it impossible to remove them with a 12 point socket.



unless youre stubbron and have a big hammer.



i "tapped" the socket up on as many of the bolts as i could get to to get them loose. the ones that i couldnt get a socket on with an extension or hammer room, i sued some vice grips. took me 3 hours to remove the bolts. majjor, major buzzkill. but its obviously out, as i showed a picture of the inside. kinda spoiled the suprise, there....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/0139-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/0159-1.jpg



before i left for the night (jenn and mary asked for me to come home early for ribs and veggitales), i took some comparison pictures of the a833 vs the tremec trans. never saw any pictures showing the size difference, so i figured this might help someone....

i also dropped the flywheel at o'reilleys for a resurface.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/0019-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/00311-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/01110-1.jpg



so the plan for tomorrow is to get my new moroso 1 piece pan gasket up and in, the bellhousing modified, and the floor cut out. ould also like to get some clean up and organization going. i took the whole of next week off to do this swap, so im taking my time and trying to enjoy myself.



new budget total 7675.30



when i start my elcamino build, id like to get to almost this level, with a TOTAL budget of 10k. and a big block. and an automatic.



more tomorrow night. hopefully with a real camera instead of my cell phone.



yall have a good evening, and god bless. dont forget to be grateful for your blessings, and problems. cause all the priobles we have are problems of privelege, if you think about it. (if you cant figure that out, PM me and ill explain it)



michael

[dusterbd13]

sdo i pretty much lost a day yesterday to the oil pan, and only NOW realized why. it is up and in, though, and the new gasket, celaned bolts, cleaned pan, etc is all in place and happy.



reason i lost a day that i just discovered? i put the rear baffle in BACKWARDS. yes, backwards. counterintuitive, i know. so i wound up trimming, test fitting, trimming, test fitting, grinding, filing, etc. all because i put the stupid thing back together backwards.....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/00121-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/00321-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/00521-1.jpg



picture of the pan gasket. be carfeful. this turns out to be the magnum pan gasket, just in a different box. something i learned after getting it all back together. heres to hopiong it dont leak....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/0237-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/0253-1.jpg



picture of 7 years of abuse, 10k miles, etc on the POR15 engine paint. this is after going through the parts washer to clean it up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/00921-1.jpg



i started out thismorning getting the stuffing knocked out of me by my bellhousing. no lie, my ribs still hurt. put the bell up on the workbench to drill the new mounting pattern (had to make a center punch out of a grade 8 bolt tp get the exact center of the hole). drilled it out step by stem to remain accurate. got the 1/2 inch gear reduction makita out, and started reaming for the final size. when the drill got caught, i had a good enough hold on it that it rotated the bell into me with a good amount of force. on every hole. only after getting done, i thought about putting it on the floor and standing on it to prevent that. so take the tip from me.



also got the nuts welded to the inside today. (no inside bellhousing shot...)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/01131-1.jpg



i had another aw, shoot moment. when my machinist and i turned down the front bearing retainer on the tremec, we used stock small block four speed retainer dimensions. unfortunately, that is NOT what the lakewood requires. apparently i nefver noticed this when i built the drivetrain last time. the lakewood has one thats about 1/2 inch bigger, or the same size as a big block trans. luckily, the giy that bought my four speed had an adapter ring that came with one of his lakewood bellhousings. cost me 20 bucks, but the alternative was to buy another retainer, have it overnighted in, and then have it machined. just not gonna happen for less that 150 bicks. so the adapter it is!!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/031-1.jpg



i finished the day out by starting to make a nice, precise, HUGE FREAKING HOLE in my floor. this was a very scary and difficult thing to do, as i hate, hate, hate cutting cars up. but, there was no way around it thius time. also removed the 4 speed hump at the same time, or the hole would have been considerably smaller.



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/0291-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/0331-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/0352-1.jpg



tomorrows plan is to build my adapter for the poly trans mount to the tremec pattern, and test fit. hopefully it goes well and i can make the mating semi permanent tomorrow, and start putting the car back together. then making a floor.....



michael

[dusterbd13]

got a late start today, after taking my daughter to school and getting my moms crx going again.



started by figuring my trans mount adapter out. not the orettiest welding, but then again, my autodarkening helmet died, so i was doing it by squeezing my eyes shut. picked up a new one on the way home tonight, but my eyes hurt....



took the extra "plate" they gavem cut it in half, welded it on, drilled some new holes, trimmed the overall length, and rammed her home.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/00110-1.jpg



the hole in the floor did not start to heal overnight, either. great googly moogley, its a big hole.....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/00312-2.jpg



i also spent a little bit getikng holes tapped in the welded nuts, making sire the new crossmember would fit (it needed all the holes clearanced about 1/8 to 1/4 inch to line up properly. not the fault of the crossmember, but probably due to the fact that this car has been wrecked quite a few times, and spent at least 6 hours on a frame machine in my ownership...) also had to clearance the holes in the tremec slightly to make assembly easier. just a little opening of the holes, and were good.



i then went on to cut the t-bar crossmember out. had to. no other way around it.....



bolted up the bellhousing (no clutch/flywheel. wanted to check pilot bearing engagement.)

bolted up the trans

pulled the VSS out where i didnt cut enough from the t-bar crossmember

jacked the trans into place

cut the crap outta my left hand on jagged floor

sat in car, running through all five speeds making vroom vroom noises and giggling.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/00515-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/00714-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/00913-1.jpg



doesntr look like a lot in the pictures, but it was a lot pf work.



figured out the driveshaft length: 49 inches. my stock a-body is 49 1/4. im thinking that only 3/4 of an inch out of the trans may be a little tight. 49 is with one full inch out. im dropping both driveshafts off at the drivashaft shop in the morning.



plans for tomorrow:

trim teh last part of the t-bar crossmember

stitsch weld t-bar crossmember to whats left of the floor pans

install clutch/flysheel/starter/all bellhousing bolts

install trans for final time

figuire out what to do about giant freaking hole

start reassembly of the rest if theres still time.



not too shabby for 8-4 mon and tues, 5-10 friday, 8-5 sat, and 9-5 sun.



this includes parts runs, bsing, cursing, head scratching, and the god awful oil pan job....





Michael

[astroracer]

Hey Mike,
I've been watching your work and you are doing some good stuff here. As far as the floor repair goes, do you still have the original chunk you cut out? I would use that as a base to fit around the Tremec. Cutting and extending it where needed. Like I did with the rear tubs in the van. Used the originals and just added material to make them fit the hole...
Mark

[Z06killinSBF]

Looking good!

[72D100]

its coming right along, wish i made 10% as much progress as you have. My i ask what kind of gauges them are? never mind i reread the whole thread lol

[dusterbd13]

so, quick and dirty update:


the car fought me. i bled. a lot.


started the morning by taking the driveshafts to the driveshaft guy. should have it back in the AM.

pulled trans back out, trimmed the offending area of the t-bar crossmember for the VSS clearance, and ground down a lot of sharp edges. not enough, as im pretty sure stock in neosporin, hydrogen eroxidem and bandaids have gone up today.

put the fluwheel, clutch, and bell in for final time. set the trans in, and spent the next 4 hours triung to get it all to line up again. finally got pissed and manhandled it in, as my tranny jack was making it complicated and cumbersome for some reason. it went in smooth as butter yesterday, but that was without the clutch, etc. finally got it home, and all bolted and torqued down. also got all my hardware put back together for the bellhousing (like 75 bolts in that thing. seriously...)

put the starter back in, and the drivers side TTI header. then cleaned up, and took my daughter to the park.


ill be getting a late start tomorrow, between driveshaft shop, big block el camino, and dr appt. might only get the passengers side header, driveshaft, dist, clutch linkage, and wiring back in. but ill be happy at that. them jsyt nut and bolt check, throw a seat in it, attach the steering column, and test drive it. gotta be easy on this car for about 5-600 miles for clutch break in. thats gonna be tough.....

[ALLstrokedOUT]

Looking good over there, your going to love the modern trans in it; it'll make it all worth it believe me. Lokin forward to the updates, take care.

[dusterbd13]

Thanks. I'm hoping it will be alli expect it to be whhen I'm done.
And bill, me body guy, is coming by tonight to look at the giant hole and see wheat he thinks. Were also going to try to lower the fronnt of the seats a bit while were at iit.

[dusterbd13]

so, budget concerns first:

flywheel turining: 25 bucks

driveshaft: 75

previously mentioned adapter rung: 20

new total: 7795.30



so. started today by double checking my work from yesterday. missed a couple of fasteners getting tightened down.

went down and picked up my driveshaft. had driveline specialties in monroe, Nc do the work. good guys, and said that theyd take care of the 8.75 under wearrenty if it was giving me any crap. so cool!

came back, inctalled clutch linkage, wiring, steering column, exhaust (re-used the crappy copper gaskets i had. yes, they leak like a sieve. yes. they need to go away. quickly.), repaird the cut tubes with the summit band clamps, hooed up my steering linkage, put in a seat, etc. adjust the clutch be general feel, same with timing.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/00516-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/00313-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/00715-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/00914-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/01111-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/01310-1.jpg



filled all the fluids, ran over my checklist again, and pulled the pin.





fired right up. adjusted the base timing by ear (need to do it for real tommorow), made sure the clutch released and engaged, stuck it in reverse, and went around the test loop. came back 5 miles later.







i like this trans. shifts like butter. i know its been gotten into before, as dustin was told that it had upgraded input shaft, synchros, shift rails, etc. i believe it after driving it. so smooth. i like the gear ratios. 5th gear lugged it pretty good, so i didnt get to play wit that too much. definately need to work on tuning the carb a bit better till i get the EFI up and running.....



ad the huge hole in the floorpan lets in a ton of fumes, hot airr, and noise.



but the fact of the matter is, i had not planned a test drive until the end of sunday. i am 3 DAYS ahead of schedule. thats just ungheard of for me. it felt very, very cool to have been able to do this swap. dad was there as a second set of hands as i needed him, but spent moist his time rennovating his woodshop. i was his second set of hands after thoroughly scrubbing them. ive missed working with my dad. reqally missed it.



so tomorrow: clean up shop, fill tank, set timing, adjust clutch a little better, nut and bolt check, DRIVE IT.



bill and i talked tonight about the huge hole. he came up to the shop, and took a look. honestly, for what its worth, im going to let him fix the hole. it will come out nicer and cleaner lettingh the pro do that part. ill be rewiring the 68 firebird for him, (and its going up for sale once he proves it runs), and hhes just going to knock the floor off my bill. so we both win.



michael

[dusterbd13]

alright, final update for the week.



the car is back home from my dads shop.

i LOVE the new trans. 70 MPH at 2k is soooooo nice. shifts like butter, no popout anymore, good gear spacing.



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/01311-1.jpg



was unable to drive it much due to sucking exhaust and fumes through the huge floor hole. i HAVE to fix that before even thinking about driving it. i was physically sick by the time i got home, light headed, and a little confused. pretty sure i would have blacked out before too much longer from sucking too much exhaust. this was with the drivers side window OPEN, by the way. so be careful. i did order TTI header and collector gaskets to replace the crappy, leaking coppers on the car now. im pretty sure the drivers side isnt song anything but adding weight at this point.



the shifter handle is also so long that its all but unusable. since i have it, and i likke the looks, im goping to cut it off, turn it down some, and rethread it. see if i can make a stick i like that fits me. and ill show you how i do it, when i do it.



clutch is bedding in nicely alrerady, and i got it adjusted today. set the base timing again, but forgot to tighten the distributor clamp, so it changed on the way home.

no oil pan drips. for teh first time since i built the car. sooooooooo nice.



the car has developed a slight miss. i think i cracked an insulator on a plug doing all that work. its my only guess. but again, safety is primary to me, so it will wait until theres a floor again. also need to tune the carb a bunch, as it was really unhappy at 2k in 5th gear.



all in all, im very, very pleased with the steps forward and backwards this swap has made to the car. will be even happier when it has a floor, and is not soo loud duer to exhaust leaks and engine noise.





my next project is actually due to this:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/01112-1.jpg

its my great grandfathers 1939 craftsaman wood lathe. i have a kink for old tools, and like to restore and use them. my granfather rebuilt this lathe, my father built the stand, and i built the riser blocks and installed the jackshaft assembly. i enhoy turining canes and bowls to give away. its stress relieving. but since i left my job at voc rehab, i have not turned. when my father gave this to me, i had no room. so now im making it. and getting my shop better organized in the process. to that end, im adding more light, building a BUNCH more storage and workspace, and discarding useless crap that i have laying around. also trying to make the shop more workflow friendly. working at my dads really reminded me how nice it is to have space, a clean workbench, and organization to the point where ypou can actually find what you need. i know his shop is 7x bigger than mine, but the same principles apply here.



first thing to be done is to add a large wall cabinet in the corner behind the garage door track, to get things off the floor, and make two floor standing shelves go away. then i can put my bandsaw and fridge away, and get my nut and bolt racks hung and filled. also getting rid of the gray shelves for a workbench with drawers, and a wall cabinet that uses every availible inch of space.



som heres shop pics of what ill be doing in a mad thrash to get ready for boills firebird

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/00517-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/00716-1.jpg



and if anyone wants to kow more about the shop rebuild, ill throw it in this thread, since it IS relevant to the car. the car will be parked beside/under the stuff im building for the shop.



michael

[bonecrrusher]

In for the shop updates...

[dusterbd13]

im done with steps 1 and two, and ill update tomorrow when im not fried. started friday night, just quit now with the shop put back together enough for bills firebird to come in tomorrow. 2 weeks ahead of schedule. good for me, as it gets my floor done and EFI money quicker, bad for me, as i never seem the time to work on my workspace.

[88s10]

Just want to say i love what you are doing here and rebuilding a nice car for family time. Im a huge fan of your work and loved project driveabeater i was sad when it sold but that quickly changed when i found this thread. Im doing a build kinda like driveabeater just with a 3.8 and auto. Maybe you could pop in and give a few pointers on wireing since you have done somthing simular. My goal is to be on par with drive a beaters performance so who better to ask then the builder. But enough of the thread jack hope to see updates soon

[dusterbd13]

anytime on the s10 stuff. i did not pioneer it. many people before me did it, i just found them all, put all the pieces and parts of info together, and made it work.

i do not stand so high as when i stand on the shoulders of giants (some famous guy said something to that effect. dont mind the butchered quote...)

link me the s10 stuff, and ill help where i can. you may also want to google my screename and s10 or suspension. youll find a LOT of that research, and ways of explaining what i did, and what id do differnetly, etc. there were years in that truck.....

thanks for the props on the new rebuild. hoping to get it buttoned up by the end of the month. very good friend of mine is getting married, and he lives up in mouth of wilson. im to be his best man. so ill do what any rational, sane, adult would do.

thash to get the duster done so i can hoon him around in it for the bachelor party, and toss him the keys for the getaway car. then collect it before the honeymoon, and go up the blueridge a ways for giggles.

michael

[88s10]

Thanks so much for the offer on the help heres a link https://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.php?95902-project-s3800&p=963442#post963442 my biggest fear is the vats as sending the ecm oitto be reflashed is expensive and budget then driveabeater was. I have some people who can help fab stuff up and wire but i prefer to learn and do it on my own. Any and all help good or bad is very apreciated. Thanks for the warm welcome

[dusterbd13]

quick and dirty update since ive pretty much been up since 6:30 monday morning.



the shop is put back together. started to hang the cabinet on the wall behind the garage door track friday night, when i fell off the ladder. felt better when it quit hurting.

saturday afternoon, got back at it. attached my 3/4 spacers to the wall with tapcons (to clear conduit), and looked at my handiwork. realized that i forgot to account for what is above the door when it is open, namely 2 inches of bracketry/etc that hangs past the track. cussed, scratched my head, and drove to lowes for sawzall blades. was just gonna cut it off.

luckily, the add for garage door doctor came on the radio on the way home from lowes. figured id call for a professional opinion before doing something stupid and irrepairable. glad i did, as the guys said that it wasnt if, but WHEN the door fell, and that it would be in the up position. above the duster. not cool. so they offered to move the whole door to the left for a 100 bucks. this was at 8:00 on a saturday night, when i had two people lined up on sunday after church to help me hang the cabinet. so i told them to do it. we gained almost all the space i needed but 1/16th of an inch. so i still need to tweak the brace a hair, but not much. only comes in contact with the door up. may call them back for fine tuning. havent decided yet.

regardless, cabinet went in sunday, and then got the support beam underneath it. due to space, i had to do it this way. and man, was it a fight to get it up there.



but it worked perfect. took 2 shelves and some piles, and put it ALL in this cabinet with some room to spare for supplies off the gray she;lves and floor. so nice. this was monday after work when i got that done. i thjen got a call from bill that the firbird was showong up this morning, a week ahead of schedule. had tools, debris, trash, and stuff all over the shop. thrash time. worked all night. got my bandsaw and shop fridge put away, and my nut/bolt bins hung. still have about a dozen more to hang, and then start filling them and labeling them.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/0062-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/0073-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/0102-2.jpg

sometime late last night, before she went to bed, my wife came down and helped me do some rework to my lights. previously i had the 4 four footers about 5 feet in from the walls, and 3 or 4 in from the center beam. i had 3 more sitting in the boxes, with bulbs. she suggested moving them to about 18 inches from the walls so they could better bounce light to where i was working, and adding one to the center of the bay, and one at either end.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/0082-1.jpg

worked perfect. really lit up that work bay and made a world of difference. i can actually see now!!!



got all this done this morning with enough time to take an hour nap, grab a shower, and get to work. im fried.

next is taking care of my nut and bolt buckets to get them off the workbench and floor before tacling the basket case that rolled off the roll back.



good night.

michael

[dusterbd13]

got the rest of my bins hung, and started dealing with my cans of nuts/bolts/junk.

my wife also rules!!!
she made me stickers for all my bins so theyre easy to identify.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/0041-1.jpg

[88s10]

Nice my dad has a bunch of bins like that. He used to work at lowes and they redid the the door handles( i think their the big bins that flip out when u pull em) and his boss let him take em all. But those lights are amazeing we have two in our garage and they work great but our support beams are much lower

[dusterbd13]

bump

[dusterbd13]

so I got the duster back on my lunch break today. I was stoked.


the body shop has had it since the middle of January. living in a corner. I know bill did it as a favor, but at least he could have covered it. it is FILTHY. everywhere. I have hours upon hours of cleaning to do to get it back to where it was when I dropped it off. but then again, it’s a body shop. a full production, insurance primary, restoration when its slow body shop. and the floor was free. so I cant complain too much.


the floor bill built is great, nice and tight to the trans, looks good, and he stitch welded the torsion bar stubs to the floors for me while it was there. turned out really, really nice. I'm pleased. I also swapped the stick in the car out of my el-camino. fits perfect. was too short in the elky, but not in the duster. ill try to use the duster stick in the elky, unless I find my 700r4. anyway, here's pics of the floor.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/00518_zps958b02b5-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/00315_zpseccaec13-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/00111_zps20d5975a-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/01710_zpsce23d4f9-1.jpg





bill, however, did create some issues for me to deal with. for some reason, he cut the main battery cable in half, then kinda spliced it back together. its not cool. so ill be replacing the whole main cable.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/01510_zps116a3b58-1.jpg





he also stripped a lot more of the sound deadening and insulation off than I had anticipated. so ill deal with that as well. the speedo doesn’t work now, probably didn’t get grounded under the seat bolt like I had it.


plans for the very near future:
1.
replace exhaust gaskets.

2.
figure out shift boot

3.
find why its running like crap. I retimed it, but need to check out all the plugs when im doing header gaskets.

4.
fix AC, interior lights, radiator venting, battery cable, speedo, right rear taillight.

5.
replace/upgrade all floor insulation/sound deadening

6.
clean

7.
reinstall carpets and interior

8.
drive and fine tune.



and lastly, pics of it home and filthy. ill probably get started on the exhaust tomorrow night after I strip out the suspension on the elky. its time for that truck to get on the road as my new truck.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/00916_zpsc521c49f-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/01113_zpse8c36901-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/00717_zps5013582d-1.jpg

[bonecrrusher]

Looking good.

Sucks about the stuff you got to fix.

[dusterbd13]

previous total: 7795.30


parts updates:


battery cable and ends from autozone: 58.96


electrical goodies for the trans from modern driveline (forgot when doing trans swap) 46


TTI exhaust gaskets from mancini: 42


collector gaskets from oreilleys: 10.50


console and e-brake assembly from pull-a-part: 27.19


new total: 7979.95





ok, so first is the obligatory fancy magazine looking parts pic:


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/00111_zps4e0e0180-1.jpg


today after work I stopped and picked up 25 foot of 2 gauge, oxygen free copper battery cable and a pair of ends from advance. my wife helped me feed it through the floor to the starter while I routed it under the car, and my daughter sand vacation bible school songs to us. it was pretty neat. after I got done painting the frame on the el camino, I started working at getting it laid in and routed properly on the interior. before I could get too far, though, I had to clean it up. it was driving my BUGGY. so vacuum, scrub, prep for sound deadening, etc.


then, since I was already on the floor, I grabbed what may be the last of my leftover mcmaster carr dynamat, and applied it to the floor.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/01510_zps177d3631-1.jpg


screwed down and secured my battery cable along the trans tunnel where it belongs


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/0168_zps5298d980-1.jpg


and then got froggy and started reattaching my foil backed jute. it’s a little scruffy, but I've got another layer of heat barrier to go over top, so it'll do. have to grab some more to finish where some wasn’t salvageable, though, as well as to do the drivers side of the firewall. I also test fitted my console.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/01710_zps0665e547-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/0185_zps91e7fada-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/0185_zps91e7fada-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/0206_zps3e913963-1.jpg





fits like it was made for the car. absolutely great!! ill need to make some brackets for the floor, and figure out a way to hook up the hand brake to the factory rear cables. any ideas? and bonus points to anyone that can identify the donor. I know I'll need to clean it and dye it black, but now that I know it will fit and work, I can do that. and its also good that the console fits so well. I may have to split my front carpets in half to get them to fit properly. the new trans tunnel takes up roughly 6 inches more space, judging by the re-used jute.


good night everyone, and happy Easter.





Michael

[dusterbd13]

previous total: 7979.95


money spent: 16.32 for insulation


new total: 7996.27


been working off an on throughout the week on both my cars, as well as OT at the day job and a little bit on customer stuff.


got the remaining jute glued back down, and finished off that half a roll I had left over from my AC install. insulated the rest of the firewall finally. I also removed the drivers side fresh air box, built a plastic plate that I didn’t take pictures of, and bonded/bolted it to the cowl prior to the insulation. really freed up a bunch of space.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/01510_zps25daa17f-1.jpg


I then used up my last of the double foil sided bubble wrap I've been using lately. used that over the pretty mangled jute. reason being that with all the damage to the foil on the jute, it had no appreciable heat insulating properties any more. so this, when installed, is about 1/16th thick and functional. not blowtorch on one side and hand cold on the other functional,. but hold a lighter there until it burns your thumb next to the botton and your other hand is just starting t regiseter heat functional.


had to buy another roll to finish. that’s where the money came in. I just glued it down over top the mangled jute.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/01710_zps01b7ef13-1.jpg


then put the carpets out in the sun this morning to settle out from being loaded in the box for god knows how long. the mass backing makes this stuff very stiff and hard to work with, but it was much more manageable right after coming out of the sun. stiffened back up pretty quick, though.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/0206_zpsac5f9bb8-1.jpg


got the rear piece laid in, and the only two required holes put through it. its some tough stuff to work with, but I had my wife sit in the car while I smacked under that floor pan with a rubber hammer. she said it was hard to hear the hammer blows, and heard them more from the open door than from the inside. so here's to hoping that this pain and aggravation and expense is worth it.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/0168_zps00abc7c4-1.jpg


also went to pull-a-part with my dad yesterday. had to get some stuff, and I found my shift boot for the neon console. they didn’t charge me. I also looked at getting the neon park brake lever/console mount, but its held to the floor pan by close to 20 spot-welds. I think im going to borrow a cordless saws all, and cut the tunnel out. then separate at my leisure.

[ryeguy2006a]

Is that what the console came from a Neon? The console fits great, nice find. I am doing something similar with my car and I am wondering, what you are doing about the color? Will you dye it to match?

[dusterbd13]

ill dye it with sem dye black. its also out of a first gen neon. ill also have to get the trans tunnel bracket for the handbrake and mounting points.
the console has a centered sift position, and an integral handbrake. perfect for what i want to do....

[astroracer]

Nice job Mike! Excellant find on the console. I have a pair of Neon buckets I was going to use in the van until I priced out recovering!!! The scat seats were cheaper...

[bonecrrusher]

Not that your duster is in any shape to Auto-x, but CCR SCCA is autocrossing @ Zmax this weekend.

I just saw the date today - I know kind of late - but I think I am going to be hitting that up on Saturday.

[dusterbd13]

I saw it as well. Would love to, but the only thing I've got going is the daily acr. I kinda need it for work, and as violent as I am on course I tend to break things. Sono go for me. But I'm a bachelor with no kid this weekend, so mad thrash on everything here I come!

[dusterbd13]

previous total: 7996.27


apparently I never finished updating the interior redo.


it went very well, all things considered. the front carpets fit fine without having to split them at the trans tunnel. the mass backing I sprung for makes a dramatic difference in road noise and heat transfer. I have to say, I'm pleased with the ACC carpets and mass backing.


also, I really like the way the console/shifter/seats turned out.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/00717_zpsf91d1125-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/007-17_zpsf91d1125.jpg.html)


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/00812_zps3d437a77-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/008-12_zps3d437a77.jpg.html)


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/00916_zps01099244-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/009-16_zps01099244.jpg.html)


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/037_zps75f9b04d-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/037_zps75f9b04d.jpg.html)


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/038_zps1dffc165-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/038_zps1dffc165.jpg.html)


I have driven it quite a bit since getting it all back together. have some unwelcome vibrations I believe are from the poly trans mount, so I'm figuring out a rubber version.


also, the rear axle proceeded to get much, much louder. driveline is standing behind it, so I pulled it and dropped it off with them.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/004_zps071f6130-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/004_zps071f6130.jpg.html)


I have also decided to dial the front end back a couple of notches as far as alignment, and raise it about 1/2 inch for more ground clearance. its just too damn low top drive like I want to....

[astroracer]

The interior looks nice Mike! It's amazing how well the console fit. Looks like it was born there.
I have the same vibration issue with the poly trans mount I put in my '02 T/A. Because the torque arm attaches to the trans it's a band aid to keep from ripping the rubber mounts in half (went thru two in one summer...). The best fix is to install a new torque arm bracket (BMR or UMI) to move the torque arm off the trans so I can go back to a rubber mount. Don't know about your suspension but the poly mount could probably go back to rubber if you are running leaves. Poly engine mounts keep it pretty rigid.
Mark

[dusterbd13]

yes, im running leaves. used the poly that I welded an adapter to to fit the ford spacing on my trans, and the GM spacing on the crossmember. I had thought about drilling and tapping the alternate pattern in the trans when it was out, but didn't because I was worried about durability. planning on using a stock 64 chevelle mount, and welding it to whats left of a hacked apart t5 mustang mount. easiest, simplest way I can think of.....

its really annoying past 3k rpm. just vibrates to beat the band.

and thanks on the interior/console comment. still need to dye the console, actually mount it, and adapt the hand parking brake.

Michael

[72BBSwinger]

I have the ACC carpet and am happy with it also. Mine has the thick insulation too and I cut a foot wide strip of it out of it for the trans tunnel. It fits great over my t56 tunnel.

[Crimson Tide]

Does anyone know what happened to Michael? Getting close to two years and no updates. Not like him at all. Sure hope he and his family are ok.

[chunger]

Guess you missed his other threads. Try searching on his username.

[Crimson Tide]

Oh good! I'm happy to hear that. Thanks for the heads up.

[dusterbd13]

My last update was 9/5/13!!!

Holy cow. Two years, three months, ten days.

I should probably account for that amount of time. Most of you guys have seen other stuff I’ve been working on, but for those of you that didn’t, ill provide links.

Short version: medical, house, life, automotive ADD.
Long version:
I’m a mental health clinician for my day job, ran the local hot rod shop for years for a side business, father, husband, son, and I think part magpie (ooh!! Shiny!!!). my day job has become more and more involved since moving into residential services, often requiring 80 hour weeks, no sleep, high stress, etc. very consuming job. Which means less time for other things. Also, my daughter has been becoming more and more involved in various activities, which I also like to be involved in to support her. So when I’m not at work, I’m there. And when I’m not doing that, I build cars for others. And when I’m not doing THAT, I’m fixing my own stuff, and renovating the house. Obviously, not a lot of hours left over there. Well, couple of years ago, it became apparent that I needed to become more involved in the bodywork on my El Camino. As seen here: https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/project-drivabeater-20-64-el-camino-this-time/60101/page1/ so that sidetracked me considerably from the duster. Spent a lot of hours at the body shop, and a LOT of money. During that period, driveline specialties rebuilt the rear end again, making it quiet. Apparently their previous supplier had some troubles with the gears, and then went out of business. They honored it anyway. Very great guys. I also realigned the car, and daily drove it through that January and February when my daily was down. I also broke a lowering block while dialing the car, and wound up doing the hanger flip instead. Lowered the rear too much, but never got around to a solution.
In April of 2014, I was helping brother Dustin build his woodshop. It had started raining, and we were almost finished. So I decided to be superman. Carrying a couple of sheets of¾ ply above my head in the wet grass, I slipped. Hurt my left knee and ankle pretty bad. Couldn’t push in the clutch anymore, so the car got parked. I limped along for a few months, and finally went to the doctor. Turned out that I had shattered my left ankle, and that my knee would mostly heal once it was rebuilt. So September of 2014, I had reconstructive/repair surgery. I was able to try to drive the car again in January 15. I managed to make it to Indian trail (about 60mi) before the interior filled with smoke. Dash fire. Crap. So had it towed home, and put it in time out to think about what it had done. After fighting, and losing, with the comp claim through insurance, I was pretty disgusted. I also had to rebuild my deck, and the shop needed a major overhaul before I could really work down there. So we jerry rigged the car back together to run long enough to drive it down to dads. That was in April or so of this year, at the same time that I decided to close down the shop. It was no longer worth the time/money that it was taking/making. No longer made me happy like it once did, either. The duster has been living in the corner down there since. While it was out of the way, I did this: https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/dusterbd-does-a-low-budget-shop-rebuild-not-the-grosh-caliber-but-still/103346/page1/
So, with those small projects finished up, and a status update on my life out of the way, I guess we get back to the intent of this thread: converting a duster to a pro-touring car, on a budget.
Where the car left of:
Burned up wiring harness. Bad vibrations in the driveline. Stiff clutch. Piss poor running. Dead spot in steering. Back end too low. Various creaks/bangs/pops from the suspension. Ac intermittent. Electric fans making noise. Brakes making noise. Parking brake inoperable. Various leaks. Drivers side window tracks need work. Console needs dyed. Needs cleaned everywhere.
The previous budget: 7996.27
Money spent (the best I can remember)
Edelbrock fuel rails: 110
Tanks inc in tank pump: 235, summit racing
Roll of steel fuel line: 21 (oreilleys)
91 corvette ECM with MEMCAL 45 (carguts in south carolina)
Adjustable fuel pressure regulator, ebay 21
Ez mini 21 circuit harness, ebay 135
Kenwood 3 channel amp, swap meet, 20
Polk dash speakers, pull a part 12
Memphis belle 6x9 speakers, free
4 gauge amp wiring and terminals, free
Battery jump terminals, 17 ebay
New total: 8612.27
So this past month, I decided it was time to bring the old girl back out of the time out corner. I started in on finally finishing the intake that I began to convers for port efi. It needed lots and lots of work to finish. So I pulled it, my magnum fuel rails, etc. off the shelf. I also learned, somewhere in the last couple of years, that the GM ECM I plan on using does not like a fixed fuel pressure. The ecm works better with a vacuum referenced regulator. This meant that the single inlet, return less, magnum rails would need to be modified to work. Instead, I spent the good money on a set of edelbrock aluminum fuel rails. Easier to set up as a return style, easier to mount, and look better.
Anyway, I pulled the parts out of storage, and this is what met me:
Half finished, mostly butchered intake.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/20151203_145157_zpsg9qhjlji-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20151203_145157_zpsg9qhjlji.jpg.html)
Melted injector pintles on my 30lb injectors:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/20151203_141840_zps9w04nbdm-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20151203_141840_zps9w04nbdm.jpg.html)
Shiny box of fuel rails:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/20151211_210010_zpsw8s7mthx-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20151211_210010_zpsw8s7mthx.jpg.html)
Ebay sourced vacuum referenced fuel pressure regulator:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/20151211_210002_zpsmhwlqheq-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20151211_210002_zpsmhwlqheq.jpg.html)
So I got to porting. Took more than a couple of hours, but the intake runners/bungs are done. Still need to decide what to do about the plenum, if anything.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/20151212_210750_zpsv98aml37-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20151212_210750_zpsv98aml37.jpg.html)
Mock up with a spare set of ls1 injectors (26lb), edelbrock fuel rails. The 30lb test out fine, and will be rebuilt with new o-rings and pintle caps. What happened was that when we welded the bungs in, we used the rails and injectors as a jig. Too much heat. Only a few got melted, and those seem to be fine.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/20151212_210742_zpsaxql987v-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20151212_210742_zpsaxql987v.jpg.html)
I got excited to see this setup this close. So I grabbed the 4bbl throttle body and the used 7727 ecm harness off the shelf and started a further mock up. The throttle body hits the fuel rails pretty badly. The harness needs altered significantly from its time powering a tuned port corvette. But it all will work together. A 2 inch open spacer will be used under the throttle body, which will allow it to clear the rails. Additionally, with the shorter throttle body and taller spacer, its still ½ inch shorter than the 950/1 inch spacer I ran on this manifold before. I can also drill and tap the spacer for my power brake/pcv ports, and my intake air temp sensor, thereby cleaning up the engine visually.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/20151212_210707_zpsaqszpxzn-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20151212_210707_zpsaqszpxzn.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/20151212_210715_zpsfdf0bsk3-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20151212_210715_zpsfdf0bsk3.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/20151212_210721_zpsxbzwbhlo-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20151212_210721_zpsxbzwbhlo.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/20151212_210726_zpsvo0ayzpc-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20151212_210726_zpsvo0ayzpc.jpg.html)
Nest up, I moved onto the fuel system for the efi conversion. Initially I had planned to use an in tank module from a late model gm product based on some write ups I found on the internet. Unfortunately, I couldn’t find a pump that would fit that would feed the small block in the duster. Rather than being faced with finishing another module and section of fuel tank to section in, I hit the easy button. I ordered the tanks inc pa-4 module with a walbro 255. 235 from summit, free shipping. I had debated between this and a surge tank/dual pump setup. I’m running that version on my elky, and have been impressed with its performance. However, I didn’t want to have fuel components inside the trunk of the car, and the pa-4 should clear the trunk floor with a couple of hammer whacks. So I went with the pa-4.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/20151208_183452_zpsoc6nylmp-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20151208_183452_zpsoc6nylmp.jpg.html)

[dusterbd13]

So this past weekend was the install time. I went down, and took some time out pictures. Here is where we started at. Car has not been moved, or touched, since april. Parts I started acquiring are in the trunk where they landed when they came in. new harness to replace the burned up one. New amp to replace the dead ones. Jump terminals. Etc. misc duster parts in a duster shaped storage box.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/20151202_185243_zpsjv9voddg-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20151202_185243_zpsjv9voddg.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/20151202_185255_zpsnki6c45p-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20151202_185255_zpsnki6c45p.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/20151202_185213_zpsoxjtaqd6-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20151202_185213_zpsoxjtaqd6.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/20151202_185127_zpsksijdzfq-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20151202_185127_zpsksijdzfq.jpg.html)
So Friday after work, I went down and got the car started. Fired up easier than it had any right to, but ran like crap. Eh. Don’t care. Its going efi. Drained the tank using the Holley pump (which I will NOT miss the noise of) and dropped the tank. Sat it outside to air out for a while.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/20151212_095839_zpswee3pfis-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20151212_095839_zpswee3pfis.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/20151212_082250_zps8tluzgwz-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20151212_082250_zps8tluzgwz.jpg.html)
Proceeded to run the new feed and return lines. Decided on 3/8 for both to ensure an adequate safety margin for whatever I decide to do to the car later. Ran it along the sub frame connectors, through the t-bar cross member, and up the firewall, as well as into the trunk. Cut and flared the ends for AN flare nuts (had them). Green is pressure, and runs along the firewall to drivers side of the engine. Silver is return, and stops on the firewall near where the HVAC lines come out, as that is where I will mount the regulator. I made sure to route them in a way that in the event of a hard front end impact, they should not get severed. Fire bad.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/20151212_095855_zpsgyywge27-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20151212_095855_zpsgyywge27.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/20151212_095905_zpsaefew0zx-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20151212_095905_zpsaefew0zx.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/20151213_141033_zpsdiimhk4j-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20151213_141033_zpsdiimhk4j.jpg.html)
I then moved on to the pa-4 install. This is where things get interesting.
I had to modify a gas tank full of extremely explosive gas fumes. Effectively, I’m adding heat and possible sparks to a giant bomb. Oh my.
The safest way I could think of to do this was fill the tank with water. I put the fill tube in to make the water level higher, and proceeded to use a harbor freight 4.25 hole saw to cut into the tank. Worked well. Water came pouring out.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/20151212_095917_zps9wlfbtkr-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20151212_095917_zps9wlfbtkr.jpg.html)
But at least the inside of my tank is squeaky clean. That makes me happy.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/20151212_111633_zps78zzjv7y-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20151212_111633_zps78zzjv7y.jpg.html)
Got the mounting ring all set up, and decided that if I ever had to service the pump on the side of the road, life would be much better if the ring didn’t fall to the bottom of the tank. So best way to solve that would be to tack weld it in place.
It blew up. But only a little.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/20151212_120249_zpsrfwoli3q-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20151212_120249_zpsrfwoli3q.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/20151212_111622_zpsbpf4xq07-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20151212_111622_zpsbpf4xq07.jpg.html)
Apparently what had happened was there was an air pocket in the tank that wasn’t filled with water. It was filled with explosive gas fumes. When it went off, it blew half the tank of water out through the hole for the pump. Shot it high enough it was dripping off the roof of the garage. It scared me. A lot.
Anyway, I finished up the pump assembly.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/20151212_133417_zpstxxawntf-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20151212_133417_zpstxxawntf.jpg.html)
I then proceeded to go to mount it in the car. I thought I would have enough clearance to snake the lines out between the trunk floor and tank. Big old hairy no.
What I wound up with:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/20151212_145942_zps09jr3i6u-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20151212_145942_zps09jr3i6u.jpg.html)
Ill make a cover that covers the pump assembly and seals it outside, as well as protects the lines. But the cover will be easily removable for side of the road service if ever necessary. The lines were rerouted to come into the trunk to hook up, and ill also mount a fuel filter in here. Guess I didn’t succeed in keeping fuel components out of the trunk after all…..

Anyway, filled back up with gas and hooked the carb system back up so I could drive it home. The gasket on the module is leaking, so I need to address that, and I also need to learn about tank venting and get that sorted out before hooking the whole efi system up.
But she’s home. And on the road to recovery. Still have a few other projects to finish before I blow her apart to address the long list of issues, as well as go efi, but it’s near the top of the list.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/20151213_155153_zpsh1cuyjh0-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20151213_155153_zpsh1cuyjh0.jpg.html)
Side note about budget line items: ecm is for the factory memcal so knock sensor and limp home will work. I lost mine. Polk and Memphis belle speakers, as well as amp, are for stereo upgrade. Jump terminals because I have a hard time reaching the battery being as fat and short as I am.

[cbpldc]

Good to see its back on the priority list. Love your build and your tenacity.

[Crimson Tide]

Good to see you back. Sounds like life has been getting in the way. Hate it when that happens! :)

I would have suggested the Aeromotive Phantom pump assy. That was a breeze to install and everyone loves it. Good price too. But it looks like you have a great solution as well.

Michael, I hate to criticize, but you have a fire just waiting to happen. You cannot...under any circumstance...run your fuel line through your chassis like that. You MUST use some sort of grommet there. Either rubber, or go to Home Depot and purchase some hard plastic electrical grommets. Those are actually pretty darn good. But I can promise you without a doubt that the way you have it will end up rubbing a hole in the line. Please please please fix that!

Such a great project...keep us informed!!

[dusterbd13]

Aw crap. I had meant to do that. Now that you point it out, I realize I didn't. THANK YOU for catching my mistake.

[dusterbd13]

So, budget first:
Previous total: 8612.27

Parts bought:
2 inch spectre carb spacer, and edelbrock 6an fuel filter from amazon: 54.06
½ thick carb gasket, oreilleys, 7.99
6an-18npt adapters, eBay: 7.80
Injector rebuild kit, eBay: 19.25
5x 6an push lock, straight, eBay: 25.20
2x 6an push lock 90: 10.42
2x 6an/6an adapters, eBay: 3.98
1x 6an-1/4npt, eBay, 2.19
6 foot aeroquip socketless hose, free!
New total:
8743.16
Not too much of an update. Mostly just collecting parts. AN plumbing is expensive, but I think I have everything I need except for the fuel rail fittings now. Im also hoping I can clear the hood at this point….
The intake/throttle body/spacer/air cleaner stack is pretty tall. But it had to be to clear the rails with the linkage on the throttle body. Only other option is to try and modify the throttle body by removing springs and shortening shafts. Or, ditch the 4bbl throttle body all together, and run a 454 TBI setup with the injector pod removed. Supposedly flows about 780cfm that way. We’ll see what happens when it’s all bolted together.
I also need to make rail hold downs. I’ll do that in the near future after the intake is painted, and everything is put together with wiring, etc to see what I have to do to clear stuff.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/20160104_072202_zpsvvgmwk9u-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160104_072202_zpsvvgmwk9u.jpg.html)

Pictures of AN fittings:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/20160105_073454_zpsk3wwnylz-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160105_073454_zpsk3wwnylz.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/20160105_073508_zpsfdroizsw-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160105_073508_zpsfdroizsw.jpg.html)
Lastly, I rebuilt and cleaned the 30lb injectors, as well as did some math. These are rated at 30lb at 43.5lb of fuel pressure. At 60lb, they will flow 36lb, which should be enough for 400rwhp. In theory, at least.
So we went from this:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/20151203_141840_zps9w04nbdm-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20151203_141840_zps9w04nbdm.jpg.html)
To this:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/20160105_073442_zpsseyrlupn-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160105_073442_zpsseyrlupn.jpg.html)
I think well be ok here. Worst case, I’ll pick up some newish 36lb injectors, and swap them out.

Lastly, I guess ill throw up a for sale ad here. I will no longer need the Holley blue pump, regulator, 750 edelbrock carb with electric choke, electronic ignition distributor, and pro-comp air gap intake. Figure a screaming deal at 300 plus shipping obo. If anyone is interested…..
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/20151211_200134_zpsjirjhmb1-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20151211_200134_zpsjirjhmb1.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/20151211_200111_zpscwqshlik-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20151211_200111_zpscwqshlik.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/20151211_200049_zpsxoanz66m-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20151211_200049_zpsxoanz66m.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/20151211_200032_zpspyhdwmqx-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20151211_200032_zpspyhdwmqx.jpg.html)
Next up is painting the intake, modifying the spacer for some vacuum ports, mockup, etc. just chipping away at things.

[wedgehead]

Next time welding a used gas tank run a fairly large hose connected to another running cars exhaust for a while. It will remove any remaining fuel and vapors. I have done this many times.

[dusterbd13]

I'd heard that somewhere before. Seemed like it was an old wives tale. Guess not. I'll probably try it if there's a next time. This time scared me bad enough that I probably won't ever attempt it again.

[jeff351]

It blew up. But only a little.




First thing I would have done is got up off the ground and look over to see if the neighbors were watching

[dusterbd13]

No neighbors or witnesses, thankfully. Just some hurt pride and a skidmark.

[Crimson Tide]

No neighbors or witnesses, thankfully. Just some hurt pride and a skidmark.

I would assume that was in your shorts, no??? :)

Any inert gas like was mentioned will work well Michael. The gas (exhaust in this case) displaces the oxygen more than the fumes. Can't go boom without oxygen! That is exactly how an EGR valve works. Dilutes the mixture with inert gas so the combustion process is cooler...and therefore reduces oxides of nitrogen.

OK y'all...big night tomorrow night. ROLL TIDE!!!

[bonecrrusher]

I know how life gets in the way of things!

Glad to see your back at it!

Skid mark reminds of Black Sheep:

https://youtu.be/d22vhfJ3ii8?t=163

[Motorcitydak]

Glad to see more progress on the car and that you are going EFI. I see those fragile push lok fittings for the hose, yours on the carb in that pic really needs to go in further into the hose until that washer hits the collar on the fitting. It is a PITA but what I did was wrap the hose in a rag and put it into a bench vise then put a block of wood on top of the fitting and hit it with a BFH. Straight fittings are easier to do than that 90 but it will do the job

[ALLstrokedOUT]

Great to see you back on here Michael (and going to 'the dark side' w/ efi). Just as I'm reading this I'm contemplating going back to a carb, I'm not going to, but I've been chasing an intermittent issue where I randomly lose power. I think you're going the right way with your ecu choice.

I've welded on a couple diesel tanks, I dumped some water and dry ice (to make co2), it didn't make me less nervous, but I havnt ignited anything yet!

[dusterbd13]

previous total:8743.16

money spent:
iat/cts and various wiring connectors at pull-a-part: 21
correct 3/8npt to 6an fuel rail fittings: 25.91
6 feet 1x12ga steel: 14
new total: 8804.07

so ive been chipping away at this.

ive gotten the intake painted with por15 left over from the dual plane.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/20160108_173416_zpsvni7iaod-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160108_173416_zpsvni7iaod.jpg.html)

and I spent most of today making injector rail hold downs and a map sensor mount.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/20160123_124857_zpsfxbcette-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160123_124857_zpsfxbcette.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/20160123_141944_zpsuafnf0hs-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160123_141944_zpsuafnf0hs.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/20160123_141958_zpslfn21jsj-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160123_141958_zpslfn21jsj.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/20160123_150942_zpszhnpfxii-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160123_150942_zpszhnpfxii.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/20160123_151339_zpszou8nt0i-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160123_151339_zpszou8nt0i.jpg.html)

tomorrow will be making the fuel pressure regulator mount, coil bracket, and maybe drilling/tapping the carb spacer for the IAT and nipples for PCV and power brake vacuum lines.

[dusterbd13]

Update time!

Previous budget: 8804.07

Money spent:

Misc brass fittings at lowes: 6.50ish

O2 sensor (4 wire), e coil, o2 sensor bung, and another set of gaskets 75

Sold intake, carb, distributor and fuel pump -350

Reman lean burn distributor 32

New total: 8567.57


So, I finally got around to the start of the major overhaul here.

But before that, I worked on finishing the intake up. Wanted to mount the fuel pressure regulator or the rail originally, but had decided that it wouldn't fit. Them I couldn't find anywhere else I wanted it. So I went back to the rail idea. Picked up some brass fittings from lowes, and here is where we wound up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/20160124_111726_zpsqgkshs4p-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160124_111726_zpsqgkshs4p.jpg.html)

I then went to test this cheap ebay regulator. It leaked, both fuel and vacuum. Not good. Not good at all.

So I tore it apart, hoping it was something simple. It was. The Chinese kids that built it pinched the o-ring when they put it together. And left metal shavings throughout. So I cleaned it up, put in a new o-ring, and put it back together. Much success was had.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/20160124_105542_zpsahuxhms4-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160124_105542_zpsahuxhms4.jpg.html)

So, now ive got all the fab work done. In theory.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/20160124_111722_zpsgqxicln4-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160124_111722_zpsgqxicln4.jpg.html)

I was stoked. Moved onto distributor modification. All that I wanted to do was mount the ignition control module under the distributor where it would be nice and out of the way. So I used the infamous CAD (cardboard aided design) and made a bracket. Dissembled the lean burn unit I had picked up years ago, and cleaned it all up, etc.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/20160124_151622_zpsuc9laech-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160124_151622_zpsuc9laech.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/20160124_151620_zpsmwmeojev-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160124_151620_zpsmwmeojev.jpg.html)

It got scrapped for two reasons. 1, I lost one of the hold down clips for the cap over the years, and I was unable to locate a replacement. 2. There was no way to service the module once I installed the distributor in the car. 3. The hall effect sensor was fried. And then I dropped it. So.... I ordered a cardone reman unit from work. First one was bent. Second one works great!! I also wound up relocating the module to a piece of angle aluminum held down under one of the coil mount bolts.

So then a guy on craigslist actually showed up with cash for the intake setup. So we pulled the car out, pulled the hood, and removed it all.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/20160126_165118_zpsinmipyk9-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160126_165118_zpsinmipyk9.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/20160127_192903_zps34og9d3a-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160127_192903_zps34og9d3a.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/20160128_170455_zpsx1hpyzi1-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160128_170455_zpsx1hpyzi1.jpg.html)

Went ahead and drained the block as well, and installed the knock sensor in the passengers side water jacket plug hole.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/20160201_161743_zpsvwqajtcz-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160201_161743_zpsvwqajtcz.jpg.html)

I then went ahead and installed the efi intake, and plumbed it. Came out different than I expected, but it is satisfactory. I dig it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/20160201_161752_zpsgvt8lb3c-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160201_161752_zpsgvt8lb3c.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/20160201_161709_zpstb05gzbn-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160201_161709_zpstb05gzbn.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/20160201_161718_zpsa2wl288n-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160201_161718_zpsa2wl288n.jpg.html)

At this point, I have fired it on ether, and started chasing lots of fuel leaks. Unfortunately, im now pulling the intake back off, as I lost a pintle cap down into the head. Better safe than sorry. Then, back onto fuel leaks. Im hoping to be able to test fire on full efi in the near future. Then, rewire and tuning!!

[dusterbd13]

http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160301_190639_zpsb1wjzbr4.mp4.html

[xsboost90]

its a good sign!

[ALLstrokedOUT]

Looks great! I hope your tuning procedure goes smoothly, I'm still on that step!

[dusterbd13]

Budget first:

Previous total 8567.57

Parts:

Two -6 to 3/8 compression fittings: 29 from summit
Alternator from 89ish buick 3800 31 pull a part
Two new gates belts 22
Tuning from tpichips.com 250
Mr gasket throttle cable 21
5 relay panel, from britian via eBay, 41
12.5 ft of black, and 12.5 ft red 4 gauge cable, eBay, 21
Edelbrock steel carb “spacer” 20ish
Roll of cork gasket paper (had it)
42lb injectors, eBay 100

New total (ish. I'm having a hard time keeping up with the receipts at this point. Too much work, not enough organization) 9102.57

When I last updated, it was mostly sorta running. Not well, and not consistently, but running.

The first order of business was to get the fuel leaks stopped. There were a bunch of them. Compression fittings above the header. Flare from steel line to 6an male/male (both!). O rings on injectors slightly.

To fix the compression fittings, I just had to tighten them. The flares I cut off, and tried the earls compression to AN adapters from summit. These things were wonderful to work with. Very nice product. O rings were piddled with, then swapped out for 42lb ev1 style injectors. These are slightly shorter, which gives me the ability to lower my throttle body, and maybe fit the hood back on. They also don't leak, because they are running at 43.5psi vs the 65psi that I was running the 30lb injectors at. This engine made 390 at the rear wheels previously, which would pretty much max out 36lb injectors. Running the 30lb at 65psi, they were effectively 38lb injectors. Which were marginal. The 42s allow a little headroom (if I manage to make more power with the efi), and lower fuel pressure, which I deem safer.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/03/20160302_171633_zpsrga7pifb-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160302_171633_zpsrga7pifb.jpg.html)

Next up is a picture of the new mount for the ignition control module. Forgot to add a picture. Its a pretty simple piece of angle aluminum bolted to one of the old mounts for the stock coil. I have a heat sink from a vortec powered Chevy truck to add when I get to it, as these things get really hot and need all the help with cooling they can get.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/03/20160219_140601_zpshu7xce8w-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160219_140601_zpshu7xce8w.jpg.html)

With the fuel leaks stopped, it was time to add an 02 sensor. Drilled the driver side head pipe just behind the 3 bolt collector flange, and welded in a bung. No pictures. Ran it there so I can only have one wiring leg to the trans and 02 sensor, making a cleaner installation. Its also not in the collector due to the ceramic coating. Most recommendation are to put it in the collector so as to keep heat in it. I am running the heated sensor so I don't have to worry about it.

Then we moved onto coolant in preparation for tuning. Hooked bu the heater hoses, tightened, filled with water, etc. All ready to go.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/03/20160319_191139_zpsdyhgcyya-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160319_191139_zpsdyhgcyya.jpg.html)

Up next was the vacuum for the PCV and power brakes. These both have 3/8 line. I had no vacuum ports left. But I did have that nice 2 inch spacer, a rabbits foot, and no fear of failure.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/03/20160319_191132_zpsy4fxeujg-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160319_191132_zpsy4fxeujg.jpg.html)

Hit them with the drill press, a tap, and...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/03/20160319_205825_zpscgl69if9-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160319_205825_zpscgl69if9.jpg.html)

In the previous picture, you can kind of see the Mr gasket throttle cable. What a worthless piece of ****. It binds, the part in the kit don't fit one another out of the box, etc. Completely unusable. But I cut to fit and modified, and....

It still is unusable crap. I'm buying a lokar. Maybe then my throttle wont hang up.

I then had to mount my GM E coil. Wanted to mount it in the valley between the throttle body and distributor. You know, in all that wide open real estate I don't have. I bent a piece of aluminum, and did it though.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/03/20160319_205836_zpswcwwhg3g-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160319_205836_zpswcwwhg3g.jpg.html)

So with all that done, it was time to start getting it tuned. I had to get my laptop to talk to my chip burner, then talk to the ecm, then get tuner-pro to work, etc. I hate how complicated my new laptop and windows 10 has made all this. Wound up having to get a windows 10 compatible serial to USB adapter, and using a 10k resistor to get everything to working. The 10k resistor makes the ecm go into diagnostic mode, which jacks the IAC wide open, jacks timing, etc. Does some very funky things. I didn't know about that until I was trying to set IAC counts and idle speed. So I need to figure out how to access the ALDL stream without the 10k resistor. Anyway, while fighting with a high idle, I found an issue.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/03/20160319_210811_zpsc671e0ic-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160319_210811_zpsc671e0ic.jpg.html)

The scorch is from where it backfired. Through the IAC port. To OPEN AIR.

The IAC port was a giant vacuum leak. Apparently, this early Holley throttle body has a different design from the later in the IAC port, which makes the IAC port overhang a normal carb gasket by 3/8 of an inch. Massive, massive vacuum leak. Aint no way its going to idle or run properly. I managed to find an off the shelf solution though. The edelbrock sheet metal carb spacer/adapter thing.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/03/20160320_151326_zpsahjjce8u-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160320_151326_zpsahjjce8u.jpg.html)

It was within a couple of thousandths of covering the whole hole. I could see light through the crack when I shone a flashlight down the IAC port from the top, but only if I looked from the right angle. Close enough with a nice thick cork base plate gasket, as no off the shelf gasket exists that covers the IAC hole.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/03/20160320_151318_zps8bfh5jwd-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160320_151318_zps8bfh5jwd.jpg.html)

Now that that's done, we move on to something unrelated, but necessary.

I wanted a better accessory drive, with more fail safe, and more belt wrap.

So I started with a different alternator. The mounting lugs on the previous one were maybe 90 degrees apart, not 180 like mother mopar intended. It was also clocked wrong and dead. So, time to make it better. When I designed this accessory drive, I used a single belt to run the alternator, power steering pump, crank, and water pump. Also a belt from crank, water pump, air compressor. I wanted more of a fail safe. And the fact that I only got a roughly 1/4 wrap on the alternator/power steering pullies didn't help.

So, using a Buick 3800 alternator, with a 180 mounting design got me closer. At least better angles on the adjusters and mounts. But still not what I wanted. I wanted to be able to move the alternator in between the head and bracket and run a third belt. Started with re-clocking the case, which got me closer. The, broke out the dremel fro that last 1/8 of an inch.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/03/20160319_230527_zpscwtbkwvh-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160319_230527_zpscwtbkwvh.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/03/20160320_151147_zps6ipxc4w6-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160320_151147_zps6ipxc4w6.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/03/20160320_151153_zpskidcsbau-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160320_151153_zpskidcsbau.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/03/20160320_151156_zps09xpbiul-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160320_151156_zps09xpbiul.jpg.html)

Whee!!!

We then paid the tuner to send me a base map for me to try, and data log. Using Brian at www.TPIchips.com so far, hes been a pleasure to work with. He doesn't answer the phone, but is prompt with emails. Anyway, he sent me a base tune to try. First one was pretty rich still.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/03/20160320_160634_zpsn3ayjhxv-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160320_160634_zpsn3ayjhxv.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/03/20160320_160817_zps729zo4ia-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160320_160817_zps729zo4ia.jpg.html)

Second one got a whole lot better. Enough that I was able to move the car under its own power on EFI. I have no signal from the oxygen sensor, and need to work on tuning some more, then run it around the block a few times before I blow it apart for the wiring harness.

http://vid54.photobucket.com/albums/g108/dusterbd13/duster/20160321_140642_zpslx8nx0a8.mp4

[Crestronwizard]

I think you have the most detailed and thoroughly descriptive build thread that I have ever read :). Makes me feel like a slacker with my one line sentences. I followed your build awhile back. Our family car growing up was a 70 Duster. Lots of memories there.

[dusterbd13]

Thanks! I try to be educational and entertaining in my writing, as well as writing something that I would enjoy reading.

Thanks for following.

[dusterbd13]

Alright, first things first. I need to get better with the budget....
I cant seem to keep track of what I spend lately. I know roughly, but need to get better about it.

Last budget: 9102.57

Money spent and made:

Sold the autometer gauges and adjustable shift light: -450
Bought a full on speedhut revolution package (they had a sale, and I'm a sucker...) 625ish
4 relay waterproof relay rack (80s GM) pull a part: 12
Electric antenna: 5.50
Experimental bilstien shocks:30
Sold 340 leaf springs: -100 and a set of sacked 4 leaf springs
LC1 wide-band 20
25 feet 6 gauge cable and terminals for alternator: 27
Rostra cruise control unit 75

That's the best I can remember....

New total: 9347.07ish

So, when we left off, I was having issues. It sorta ran, my laptop wouldn't connect properly to the ECM, the tune was wrong, and....

Well, I decided to start parting the car out while it was moved into the storage bay. I had a guy call me and ask me to build him a wiring harness. I had closed shop last year, and was no longer taking new customers. He convinced me. He also wanted a custom gauge cluster built just like mine. Now, one of the issues I had with my gauge cluster was that I found the white gauges tiring after a long drive. He didn't find the white gauges in his daily that way, and he loved the arctic white setup. So I sold him mine and ordered speedhuts. I love having warning lights, and with the small block mopar, and the EFI, there are just no extra ways without added complexity and failure points to do warning lights. Speedhuts have them built in. And they were black. And....

Anyway, I bought them, and started down the really steep part of the slippery slope.

Here they are in a quick duct tape mock-up:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/20160523_163420_zpswpospzby-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/customer%20cars/20160523_163420_zpswpospzby.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/20160523_163417_zps47l0nw8u-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/customer%20cars/20160523_163417_zps47l0nw8u.jpg.html)

And then I stuffed the thing back in the corner. And did thus:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/20160523_183251_zps6wwrkegf-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/customer%20cars/20160523_183251_zps6wwrkegf.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/20160523_190624_zpsza6vlfw6-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/customer%20cars/20160523_190624_zpsza6vlfw6.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/20160528_135255_zpsswjnejaw-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/customer%20cars/20160528_135255_zpsswjnejaw.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/20160528_135326_zpsuazprt8d-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/customer%20cars/20160528_135326_zpsuazprt8d.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/20160528_135345_zps3xlzhlfu-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/customer%20cars/20160528_135345_zps3xlzhlfu.jpg.html)

ihttps://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/20160528_135443_zpsqlw6xzqh-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/customer%20cars/20160528_135443_zpsqlw6xzqh.jpg.html)

In the process, I helped to design a new mopar product. Its a CNC aluminum bulkhead eliminator. Used the factory gasket, fits in the hole perfectly, and has a reinforcement plate on the outside. We actually made a run of them just like this, and if you want one, just ask. We haven't tested on anything but a-bodies yet, because That's all we own....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/20160528_121203_zpsxgc5j7mn-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/customer%20cars/20160528_121203_zpsxgc5j7mn.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/20160528_121219_zps8twnkqel-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160528_121219_zps8twnkqel.jpg.html)

He also wants my leaf springs, so I sold them to him. I've been planning on building a custom pack with all the tricks I can throw at them, so this just spurred me on. Same with getting rid of the KYB shocks. To that end, I bought some used GM fitment bilstein shocks. The KYBs are up on the local craigslist, along with my big block torsion bars. That's all time for another post though.....

Anyway, the cuda left Saturday morning. Which meant than it was time for duster. But first I had to clean the shop. Which meant I had to move the duster. Spent the rest of the day trying to get it running again, culminating in letting the magic smoke out of the ECU and fouling another set of plugs. After picking tools and such up from the driveway (sort of lost my temper a bit...) I did some soul searching and talking with the wife. We decided that, as there is limited resources for the OBD1 GM ECM, and all the troubles I've had out of them in various uses over the years, and the incredible difficulty in tuning, and lack of tuners, to go megasquirt. So tomorrow, ill be ordering all the stuff for a full MS2 install.

Still didn't help the junkyard that my shop looked like. So I spent yesterday and today cleaning and reorganizing and moving the car. And helping dad replace a hot water heater in a crawlspace. That was fun....

As a point of reference, my wife and daughter got me the harbor freight wheel dollies for fathers day a few year ago. Last time I used them, I learned that the casters and ease of use left much to be desired. So before putting the duster on them, I re-greased all the bearings. They still suck. Once you adjust the direction of all 16 casters to point the direction you want to go with a 2x4 and hammer, its still a mother to push. On a clean, shiny floor. But we got it moved. And then cleaned. And cleaned. And...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/20160528_195600_zpslvryv6qo-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160528_195600_zpslvryv6qo.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/20160529_191012_zps8aoyljdp-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160529_191012_zps8aoyljdp.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/20160529_191020_zpsonlk5dce-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160529_191020_zpsonlk5dce.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/20160529_191025_zpskcf66etg-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160529_191025_zpskcf66etg.jpg.html)

I finished today by organizing all the parts that had been packed in the duster, removing the OBD1 harness and computer, and attempting to build a bi-xenon projector retrofit. Well, I built them, but I would have to cut clearance into the inner fenders for them to fit. Which makes it a no go, as it puts it directly into the path of water when in the rain. So, guess ill keep looking for reasonable priced alternatives. For now, the silver star sealed beams will stay, only with relays for added brightness.

[dusterbd13]

Last budget: 9347.07ish
Money spent and made:

2 4 relay panels from Britain (why?) 52.40
25 foot 6 gauge alternator charge wire, and terminals: 28.90
2 add on relay blocks, and extra terminals 30.77
8 dodge neon 5 pin relays, pull-a-part: 24
Durango rear leafs, pull-a-part: 44
MS2, 10 foot harness, cables, etc from diyautotune: 740
Sheet metal from tractor supply 7:70
1/8 npt fuel rated schrader valve, diesel o-rings 5.50
Kenwood HD adapter and cable, GRM Forum member: 10


New total: 10,290.34ish

Ok, so I spent a bit of money.

More like a lot of freaking money. Holy crap, that escalated quickly.

Anyway, first, a very expensive picture. Ignore the LC1 in the picture, until I can test it good im not adding it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/06/20160603_170535_zps3ljdjdww-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160603_170535_zps3ljdjdww.jpg.html)

And a picture of the schrader valve after a little explanation: I don't trust the mechanical pressure gauge. I've already had two fail, and if the Bordon tube fails, we get one heck of a BBQ going on. Id really rather not have that. So, this company I found, diesel o-rings.com, makes a 1/8 npt schrader valve adapter for some ford diesel to be able to use a normal fuel pressure tester on it. Which is perfect for my needs. I debated putting an electronic gauge in the car for constant monitoring, as well as a wide-band gauge and vacuum gauge.. I eventually think I probably decided not to add them. Because, lets be honest, do I really need them? If its running right, its running right. If its not, the gauges wont help me much. Just adds complexity, cost, and driver distraction. Which im trying to reduce here. A simple fuel pressure tester is fine for diagnostics and setting, as well as accurate enough. So, here's a blurry picture of a brass fitting sitting on my workbench.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/06/20160603_170544_zpsd1izswjq-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160603_170544_zpsd1izswjq.jpg.html)

So, now were on to wiring I guess. I have had people ask me to do a solid write-up of how to wire a car from scratch. Well, im not going to do that. There's books, websites, magazine articles, etc for that. What I will give here is some good tips and tricks that I have picked up after building over 30 wiring harnesses, as well as what products I tend to use and why.

First, lets talk about general planning.

This car will be fuel injected, air conditioned, cruise controlled, mid 90s level of technology, street car that will go on some tracks. So, to that end, some basic requirements are in order:
1.Ease of service.
2.Robustness.
3.Water-proof.
4.Future-proof

So, some of the things I will be talking about for my build are absolute, tee-total overkill. Like killing a fruit fly with an ICBM. Just fair warning: some of this would be ridiculous on another persons car. Hell, some of it is ridiculous on mine.

First, lets talk about battery. Mine is in the trunk, centered over the rear differential. It has a 0 gauge cable running from the positive side to the starter, and a remote kill in that cable. This is for ease of shut down, safety at the track, and ease of service on electrical should it become necessary on the side of the road at some point. For a remote kill to operate properly, it needs to shut ALL electrical down when flipped. This means that the alternator charge wiring and harness feed wiring need to be on opposite sides. Which means, by extension, that the alternator (at the front of the car) needs to go directly to battery positive terminal (at the back of the car). For this, I am using 6 gauge cable. Now, this is overkill for a 115 amp alternator. Its slightly large for a 140 amp (sometime soon), but is inexpensive in bulk. I use very finely stranded car audio amp power cable for this, as its very flexible, good bend radius, and cheap. The fine strands are the reason I up size slightly. I also use copper lugs when possible, crimping and dimpling them. I then use marine/adhesive heat shrink over the mechanical connection. The adhesive adds to waterproofing, and some mechanical pullout strength.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/06/20160603_211857_zpszynra3yg-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160603_211857_zpszynra3yg.jpg.html)

You'll also notice that I added convoluted tubing for the entirety. Id really rather not have a short in the alternator charge line due to abrasion, so I take every reasonable precaution when routing and then wrap it for another OCD layer of protection.

So, now we need to get the juice from the battery to the harness. On this car, im using 4 gauge amp wire from the battery kill, up the passengers side rocker, to the glove compartment. 4 gauge is way too much, really. But I had it. You will notice, again, wrapped in convoluted tubing for added protection.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/06/20160603_212132_zpsz8ex7kb6-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160603_212132_zpsz8ex7kb6.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/06/20160603_212125_zpschlzfwvt-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160603_212125_zpschlzfwvt.jpg.html)

The last battery connections are the basics of the ground system. In my experience, you can never have too many grounds. Also, the grounds can never bee too big. Even a ground wire carries current, so it needs to be the proper size or bigger to do its job properly. This car, I have a o gauge ground from battery to uni-body sub-frame in the rear. I have a 0 gauge from engine to front sub-frame, and a 4 gauge from battery to drivers side cylinder head. The 4 gauge is actually a little small for this, but I expect that it will NOT be taking much of the ground path amp load. Testing will prove/disprove this.

So, we've got a whole bunch of really big wires at this point, going to nothing. That's going to change in the next update, probably tomorrow night or the next night.

[Crimson Tide]

"I use very finely stranded car audio amp power cable for this, as its very flexible, good bend radius, and cheap. The fine strands are the reason I up size slightly."

Actually Michael, your fine stranded cables are able to carry current BETTER than the coarse strands. Your understanding is a very common misconception. If you study electrical engineering, you discover that current is carried on the OUTSIDE of a conductor. It sounds strange, but that's the way it works. In other words, most the current isn't carried down the center of a heavy strand, but around the circumference of that strand. Therefore, the more strands, the more 'circumference' available to carry current.

Electricity does some weird stuff, eh?

[Crimson Tide]

I'll be interested in seeing how the Megasquirt works out. I've heard nothing but good about them. On my 68 Torino I'm building, I went with Holley's self learning throttle body system. Now, I'm not a fan of Holley, but they seem to have hit a home run with this one. I used it for two reasons... One, I will be basically starting a brand new car (some day!). New engine, trans, diff, etc etc. The last thing you want starting a new car is an engine that is way off on the tune and you have to fight. This is self learning and will allow the thing to run right quickly. Two, I am going to go SEFI after I get the car sorted out. This Holley system will allow that with nothing more than a software download. At that time, you have a completely programmable sequential port injection system with no additional computer control costs other than the injector harness.

[dusterbd13]

Thanks for the reminder. I sometimes get ac and DC current mixed up.

I'm also looking forward to seeing how the megasquirt actually works.

I'm a lot closer to getting started on the megasquirt install. Hopefully tonight I'll get a chance to update.

[DionR]

First, lets talk about battery. Mine is in the trunk, centered over the rear differential. It has a 0 gauge cable running from the positive side to the starter, and a remote kill in that cable....

Michael, hope all is well. Any updates?

What are using for a remote kill in your battery cable?

[dusterbd13]

I have been meaning to update, but just not had the mental faculty after work.

Kill is a standard two pole drag switch.

[bonecrrusher]

Keep posting updates - let us know how the megaquirt install works out!

[dusterbd13]

It's up and kind of running on megasquirt. So far, so good!

[dusterbd13]

Last budget: 10290.34ish
Money spent and made:

Sold the 340 leaves -100
Sold the big block torsion bars -200
pst 1.08 tbars 230
Qa1 adjustable strut rods: 180
Spax adjustable shocks: 239
2 inch blocks: 20
Speedway leaf spring sliders: 69
4x4x6x1/4 leaf spring slider steel 18
Techflex f6 loom 50
Plugs/wires/cap/rotor 25
Spartan2 wideband and controller 100
Sweet mfg u joint 53


New total: 10,974.34 ish

Long time, no updates. But I have an EXCUSE this time!!!

But it a pretty lame excuse, so I wont use it.

I also don't have a bunch of pictures, because I honestly didn't take them. I got engrossed in building the harness, and just kept going. I find wiring to be very therapeutic and zen-like.

So, first up is the suspension tweaks. I honestly always felt the car was under-sprung and over-damped with the kyb’s, 340 leaves, big block torsion bars, etc. My steering coupler also needed rebuilt again, and my adjustable strut rods were seized sold and had to be cut out to remove. So yeah, pretty rough. I sold what I could, scrapped the rest. The t-bars went to California, the 340 leaves went to Roy in exchange for his worn out stockers, and the strut rods are in the scrap metal bin. The kybs are in cold storage helping to hold the floor down. Anybody want fairly fresh KYB shocks?

So up front, I replaced the chopped up strut rods with qa1 adjustable because they were inexpensive, looked to be well engineered, and readily repairable should the worst happen. Coated them up with never-seize because the ends are steel and the tube is aluminum, and I know there is some issues with that when you add water. I also went with PST torsion bars, and spax adjustable shocks.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/20160625_175432_zpsdj3yd16o-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160625_175432_zpsdj3yd16o.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/20160625_175421_zpsyghjxr2d-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160625_175421_zpsyghjxr2d.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/20160814_135421_zpsxoraxxl6-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160814_135421_zpsxoraxxl6.jpg.html)

In the rear, I wanted to try something completely lunatic fringe. Taking a page from the circle track/road race guys, I'm experimenting. I wanted to try my hand a a custom built leaf pack, as well as try out sliders. So I did.
I built, using Roy's worn out cuda springs and a set of junkyard durango springs, a 7 leaf pack with a spring on top of the main leaf to act as a traction/brake hop bar. They're right at 200 lb/in at the moment, so they may be too stuff. But with as simple as building the pack is, its easy to experiment with different leaves and lengths. The leaf pack I built wound up raising the car about 3 inches over where I had it on flipped hangars and 10 year old 340 leaves. I wanted about 1/2-1 inch higher, so we got too much. Grabbed a set of 2 inch lowering blocks at the parts store, and away I went!!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/20160814_132653_zpsxgm3ozsd-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160814_132653_zpsxgm3ozsd.jpg.html)

The sliders aren't finished yet, as I'm still arguing with the voices in my head about how to build the mounts. But I think I have a plan now. Maybe.
Here's the mock up.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/20160829_072249_zpsb8gasibr-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160829_072249_zpsb8gasibr.jpg.html)

Ok, next up I guess is going to be the very verbose, very dry, completely un-entertaining and baffling wall of text about wiring. Feel free to skip to the end, as there will be very few pictures worth looking at until then.

After building the main power distribution system in the last post consisting of ground wires, distribution panels, alternator wires, etc, we now have to put it to use. This is done with plenty of little wires of various colors going to various things. And so....

On most harnesses I have built for the old cars, I have come to the conclusion (right or wrong) that I don't want all the current going through the ignition switch. Mostly because they aren't rated for what the updates are pulling now (there's really no empirical data on amp ratings that I have found, but charging systems of the day were 75 at the HIGH end. Smallest alternator I have installed lately is 105 amp. So yeah, don't want that being sent through a Chinese copy of a 40 year old design...) so I relay the whole system. I use a panel that I found on eBay from Britain of all places, and only sent a 3 amp load through the switch itself. Use the switch to fire 4 relays accessory1 &2 (30a ea) starter (30a) and ignition (30a). I like doing it this way. I use Chrysler relays from wrecked 90s era FWD mopars, as they are robust, cheap, and over engineered. I use the Bosch 5 pin relay wiring diagram found almost anywhere. As my daughter would say, “easy peasey lemon squeezy!”. I also tend, on my own stuff, to use EZ wiring 21 circuit harness kits. They suck horribly. Poorly laid out, indecipherable writing without glasses, and slightly undersized in some circuits. Also, no ground wires, anywhere. At all. And if you're counting on the contents of the box to have all the terminals you'll need, you're wrong. American autowire is a much better product in every conceivable way, except price. I use these as the cheapest source of bulk colored wire and a fuse panel I can find. Immediately upon removing the harness from the box, I cut every zip tie and unloom it from the way the manufacturer laid it out. Out of 10 times I have installed one of these, only once was it anywhere close to how I wanted it laid out in the car. Its just easier to get the hassle of rerouting it all out of the way at the beginning.

So, in this car, I needed effectively two separate wiring harnesses. The main chassis harness, which powers everything but the EFI, and the EFI. I designed it in such as way that there are only 3 wires that cross between the two: batter feed to both sets of relays, one wire from the ignition relay to the megasquirt relays, and a ground screw for the relays. Everything else is separate. Relays also act as a filter for electrical noise, so using them is very beneficial. I also needed separate fuses for the injectors, megasquirt, fuel pump, and wideband. This whole fuse block is powered from the main relay, which is powered from the ignition relay.

Anyway, here's a picture of the panel I made for the glove compartment to hold all this crap.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/20160608_094313_zpsfsvpr3gx-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160608_094313_zpsfsvpr3gx.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/20160608_103000_zpst0i6j6qt-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160608_103000_zpst0i6j6qt.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/20160608_103007_zpsblnhutfg-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160608_103007_zpsblnhutfg.jpg.html)

Now comes the part that either makes or breaks the whole job. Routing the harness. It needs to be accessible, but tidy and hidden in plain sight. Its one of those jobs that when done well is not noticed, even though everyone can see it. Its very daunting. My method goes through a TON of zip ties. I tend to string one circuit at a time. Typically I start with the ignition switch and relay power. Now, I've done enough harnesses that I have a general idea of how big the bundles will be, and how they will need to be routed. I also, before starting to string wires, locate ALL electrical components where they will live permanently. Then, its just a matter of playing connect the dots. I also make certain to leave enough slack in my wiring drops to be able to easily service things later. It sucks digging around under a dash for the gauge cluster connectors because you didn't leave enough slack to fit your hand between the instrument panel and dash frame.

Which brings me to my next topic: harness connectors. In most cases, there is no good reason to permanently wire a component. Most things WILL fail on a long enough time line, and having to cut them out of the harness just to re-splice things is tedious and unnecessary. I tend to use a variety of connectors. My preferred are GM wetherpack, and radio shack 12 pin computer power terminals. They are readily available almost anywhere, easy to assemble and disassemble, and carry up to 15 amps reliably (you can do 30 amp loads, but the terminals are harder to find, and I prefer a Packard style for higher amp loads.)

Anyway, here's some random pictures I took.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/20160610_194055_zpsmwapg04p-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160610_194055_zpsmwapg04p.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/20160610_214051_zps0u8tunin-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160610_214051_zps0u8tunin.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/20160612_173527_zpsqimnrgoa-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160612_173527_zpsqimnrgoa.jpg.html)

On this car, I decided to install a rostra cruise control unit. But I didn't want anyone to know it. So I mounted it under the dash, feeding the cable out through the firewall with the wiring harness. Tucked up real nice, with nice cable routing. I also deleted all the extra wires that made it universal, just to clean things up. A lot of folks don't do that, and I understand why, but I'm not one of those folks.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/20160610_214058_zpsdbfbbsdr-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160610_214058_zpsdbfbbsdr.jpg.html)

Engine bays are where I take special pride. A well done harness isn't quite what the import kids used to call a wire tuck, but it kind of is. Its all hidden in plain sight. The type of wiring loom must coincide with the build style, the wires must be accessible but hidden, and they must be protected from damage. Factory usually wasn't the cleanest looking, but if you follow their suggestions, they'll get you pretty close. They did it for maximum ease of service and assembly. But also least succeptiable to damage.

On this car, I've had three different harness coverings on three different harnesses, factory was covered with convoluted tubing in high school. The last Restoration, it got wrapped with summit extreme tape, a non adhesive glossy black silicone tape. This time, I wanted something similar to the painless powerbraid. Techflex f6pro is on amazon for cheap, and I like it. Wrap the ends with the summit tape, and hide it in plain sight. See what I'm talking about? The entire engine bay is wired except plug wires in this picture. Play find the harness...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/20160806_085704_zpsezyu5pk7-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160806_085704_zpsezyu5pk7.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/20160806_085717_zpsf1lgxfj8-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160806_085717_zpsf1lgxfj8.jpg.html)

I also am a huge fan of light upgrades. I have a very hard time seeing at night, and old cars typically lack in the light department compared to new stuff anyway. So I build a set of bi-xenon projector retrofit headlights out of a jeep JK set of factory housings, and mirimoto 6.0 projectors. Unfortunately they looked like alien boobs, so I scrapped them and am throwing the projectors into the daily. Ill find a set of cibie e-codes and some good bulbs for this one.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/20160629_145736_zpswjvpblao-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160629_145736_zpswjvpblao.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/20160629_145730_zpspxccempw-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160629_145730_zpspxccempw.jpg.html)

On the topic of light upgrades, I do enjoy good interior lighting as well. Lately, I have been using these .96 cent 1x2 flat LED self adhesive panels for interior lights. They work well, though they don't always have consistent light color. This shipment was bluish. But, they are nearly invisible when placed properly. In this car, I've got two for trunk lights, and 4 for foot well lights in the interior. Speaking of interior, I finally adapted the neon hand brake lever, and dyed the console black. Only been meaning to do that for a couple of years. Additionally, I added a USB charge port to the console up near the cup holders. I still have to figure out how to hook up the parking brake handle to the rear drums, but, one step at a time.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/20160829_072202_zpsvg5xrhil-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160829_072202_zpsvg5xrhil.jpg.html)

Before we get to the gauge cluster, lets talk about the stereo. I wanted good front sound stage, decent bass, and high quality audio. So, to do this, I'm using a kenwood ez500 deck, with the HD radio add on module, some aftermarket power antenna, Memphis belle 6x9 3 way in the rear deck, blaupunkt 5.25 components in the kicks, some generic 4 inch speakers in the factory 4x10 opening in a plate made out of a mudflap, and a kenwood 3 channel amp powering the kicks and a first generation JL 12w6 wired to a 2 ohm load in a truck box. I need a bigger box for the sub, and possibly more power to push it. It ALMOST has the right amount of bass response.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/20160619_084710_zpsan57nh2u-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160619_084710_zpsan57nh2u.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/20160622_082050_zpskecmgjmm-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160622_082050_zpskecmgjmm.jpg.html)

Ok, if you haven't died of boredom or headed off to YouTube to watch cat videos, there's only two sections left.

First, gauge cluster. Remember I had sold the autometers and bought speedhuts? Yeah, they didn't fit. Not even close. So I wound up using the original metal pieces from Roy's cuda that held the lens to the bezel, modified for the speedhut gauges to sit in like gauge cups, glued to the back of the bezel with the gauges mounted. They are not serviceable without breakage. So hopefully they don't go bad. I then had to bore the center hole considerably to get the tach to mount anywhere close to where I wanted it, and make a lexan plat to hold it. Came out pretty good. Shot the whole bezel in black, re-installed my LED indicators, used a silver sharpie to color the letters for the switches, and jammed it home.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/20160625_175438_zpswejr2iml-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160625_175438_zpswejr2iml.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/20160629_150418_zpsmntc59yo-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160629_150418_zpsmntc59yo.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/20160702_211830_zpsdfbsi6qf-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160702_211830_zpsdfbsi6qf.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/20160814_134005_zps5nebkobq-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160814_134005_zps5nebkobq.jpg.html)

Last section I will be discussing my megasquirt experience up until this point. Now, mind you, I'm nowhere near a rocket surgeon. My computer skills are limited to word documents, Al gores internet, and listening to music. I can occasionally defrag a hard drive, and install a program, but I usually have to look up how to do it. I'm a borderline Luddite. I didn't grow up with computers, hate my smart phone, and believe skynet will be the death of us all when it gains sentience. But I have a small block mopar running on megasquirt. It still runs poorly, but dammit, it started up on the first spin of the key after adding gas to the tank and adjusting fuel pressure. So, if I can do it, anybody can.

Now, it isn't so intuitive as to be able to do it by myself. I'm just not that bright, nor is my reading comprehension involving computer things that great. The manuals are fantastic in guiding you through, once you figure out which manual you need, and read it about a dozen times. Then begin to follow the directions specific to your install. Realize you have no idea what the hell you are doing about the time you get to this picture:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/20160807_151921_zpsyvrpr79x-1.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20160807_151921_zpsyvrpr79x.jpg.html)

Go back and read some more. Twice. Repeat as necessary until you have all the basic settings flashed to the megasquirt on the workbench, and tunerstudio responds appropriately to the jimstim.

Hook the ecu up in the car, make vroom noises while you play around making sure that sensor readings look reasonable. When they don't, research why. You probably missed switching a setting somewhere, and each setting has a domino effect on the rest. Again, repeat as necessary. After a while, turn the key and see what happens. Hopefully you get real vroom noises coming from the tailpipes, not your vocal cords. If not, keep digging around in the manuals and over at msextra.com forums.

I will also take this opportunity to say, without ANY reservation, to buy your stuff from diyautotune. Matt Kramer over there is the only reason I've gotten this far. He has held my hand and spoon fed me every step of the way. The forums at msextra and GRM have also been a huge help so far.

I haven't driven the car yet. Hell, I still haven't been able to set base timing or get it idling well yet. But I'm still learning this stuff. And if I can, through YouTube, email, and guys on forums, etc., anybody with 3 brain cells and a cup of coffee can. You just have to be patient and willing to learn.

[Centerforce]

Wiring looks great! Are those covered relay holders from AAW too?

[dusterbd13]

Nope. EBay shipped from Britain. There is actually not American Auto wire stuff in this car cause I'm too cheap. It is a much better harness than what I am running though, and if this was a customer's car, would be cheaper to install due to needing less rework.

[Bjkadron]

So any updates? I want to know how the spax shocks are. Wiring looks great!

[dusterbd13]

I wish. Challenge car, job change, fleet management, and such all conspire against me. Maybe soon ill be able to make time to get back to it.

[ALLstrokedOUT]

...I know how that lack of time feels, I feel bad letting my demon 'rot' while I'm trying to fix up my tbird. But just this week I had a breakthrough on the demon, finally am getting the megasquirt tuned to where it's running better all around than the carb did- back to chirping tires through the gears (shouldn't have taken this long, but once again the whole life and time thing). I'm by no means an expert and I still don't think I know what I'm doing, but when you get to that point and you have questions let me know, maybe I can help some.

[Iride4kix]

Wow! It has came a long way from high school days. Glad we kept the 4000 lb club cars lol

[dusterbd13]

Last budget: 10,974.34 ish
Money spent and made:

around a grand on tuners and shops
500ish on msd distributor, box, wires
sold megasquirt for 1500
500 for carb, fuel log, fittings, etc
220 for used TR5 manifold
36 fuel pressure regulator
100 gaskets/coolant/hose/heat sheild
50 seats
140 new stereo (not arrived yet)
closeout box: $1


New total: 12,021.34ish

so, the last few years have not been kind to this car. I have done everything in my power to tame, as well as thrown money at the megasquirt. I've paid tuners and shops. Changed to fuel only. Rewired things. Changed components. Ran oscilloscopes. Everything. And three weeks ago, on another test drive to tune and see what funky new thing it was doing, it quit. I could not get it restarted, and had to br brought home on a rollback. It fired right up when I got it back in the driveway.

Done. I quit. I admitted defeat, and decided fighting the megasquirt was fighting a losing battle. I have fought it so long, there is no way I could ever get the faith to actually drive the car for any distance. I just could not ever see myself trusting it. So I sold it.

A gentleman on moparts, who is a long time megasquirt user and fan, and has successfully been running a TBI megasquirt smallblock. He wants my setup to go multiport. God bless him.

So, I ripped this off
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/49664056967_1c402d0426_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iEDgSg)20200315_172318 (https://flic.kr/p/2iEDgSg) by Michael Crawford (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/), on Flickr
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/49663233658_45be88e6c5_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iEz48h)20200315_172235 (https://flic.kr/p/2iEz48h) by Michael Crawford (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/), on Flickr
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/49724836858_3aa2d693a4_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iL1MBq)20200327_150206 (https://flic.kr/p/2iL1MBq) by Michael Crawford (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/), on Flickr
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/49725392451_605092151c_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iL4CLB)20200328_145740 (https://flic.kr/p/2iL4CLB) by Michael Crawford (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/), on Flickr

honestly, it felt RIGHT pulling this setup off. Like hitting a mental reset button.

To replace it, I scored a well used edelbrock TR5 off ebay. Was 220 shipped. Seller blasted and painted it prior to shipment, as well as helicoiled every hole.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/49724836183_7974c41109_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iL1MpM)20200327_102843 (https://flic.kr/p/2iL1MpM) by Michael Crawford (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/), on Flickr

to go with it, I picked up a 650 holley brawler with electric choke and mechanical secondaries. A nice fuel log, a holley heat shield, new gaskets for the valve covers and intake, and an afco fan switch. Shot a coat of clear on the intake and heat shield to keep them looking nice.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/49725390666_bdc343f1b9_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iL4CeQ)20200328_130526 (https://flic.kr/p/2iL4CeQ) by Michael Crawford (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/), on Flickr

I also had to drill and tap the fan switch hole. I hate drilling stuff, but I had to this time.

Got it all mounted up, and worked on plumbing.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/49725706417_036c358740_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iL6f6P)20200328_081025 (https://flic.kr/p/2iL6f6P) by Michael Crawford (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/), on Flickr

since the car was set for EFI, I had to step the fuel pressure way down. To do so, I decided to use a bypass regulator. Bought one from ebay. Out of the box, it didn't drop pressure far enough. Only down to 20psi. To get the necessary reduction, I took the regulator apart and increased the orifice size on the return port to 3/16. the regulator was mounted to the heat shield at the back of the carb, EFI pressure rated hose was used throughout.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/49725808597_5831e88c51_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iL6Ltx)20200401_172146 (https://flic.kr/p/2iL6Ltx) by Michael Crawford (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/), on Flickr

went ahead and used a coil bracket from an early small block chevy, wired in the choke and fans, and generally tidied everything up. I also re-polished the valve covers.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/49725738752_04e361aa67_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iL6pHj)20200330_101653 (https://flic.kr/p/2iL6pHj) by Michael Crawford (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/), on Flickr

turned out nice!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/49725785447_8d49b38973_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iL6DAp)20200401_081745 (https://flic.kr/p/2iL6DAp) by Michael Crawford (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/), on Flickr
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/49725787412_1f6681ff97_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iL6Ebh)20200401_081750 (https://flic.kr/p/2iL6Ebh) by Michael Crawford (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/), on Flickr
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/49725462986_ca01636c69_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iL4ZJJ)20200401_081806 (https://flic.kr/p/2iL4ZJJ) by Michael Crawford (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/), on Flickr
in the trunk, I finally addressed the fuel pump hole I cut oh so long ago. Before doing so, I finally installed a fuel filter. Sure, theres a sock filter on the pump, but it seemed like a good idea.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/49725738067_33a88e3a32_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iL6pvv)20200330_093306 (https://flic.kr/p/2iL6pvv) by Michael Crawford (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/), on Flickr

to cover the hole, I found a brownie tray at the dollar tree in the right size. Cut a notch for the hoses, added some double sided tape, and done!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/49724881968_274973bce3_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iL222b)20200330_110008 (https://flic.kr/p/2iL222b) by Michael Crawford (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/), on Flickr
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/49724884868_5952c3ddfd_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iL22Tb)20200330_110302 (https://flic.kr/p/2iL22Tb) by Michael Crawford (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/), on Flickr

onto the interior!

The Lincoln seats died. Fore/aft motors ceased functioning. And they never fit all that well. And they went 75lbs each. So, I tossed them, in their place, I picked up a set of neon seats from an 04 sxt. Black, cloth, light, comfortable. The tracks required a bit of surgery to fit properly though. About six inches of movement inward on the outside track, as well as making the front bolts parallel to the floor instead of perpendicular.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/49663185143_d8cb4875a5_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iEyNGP)20200306_100820 (https://flic.kr/p/2iEyNGP) by Michael Crawford (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/), on Flickr
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/49663191568_815501854d_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iEyQBA)20200306_102214 (https://flic.kr/p/2iEyQBA) by Michael Crawford (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/), on Flickr
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/49663198833_50181774da_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iEySLR)20200306_102954 (https://flic.kr/p/2iEySLR) by Michael Crawford (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/), on Flickr
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/49663190838_319d314bd7_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iEyQp1)20200306_102947 (https://flic.kr/p/2iEyQp1) by Michael Crawford (https://www.flickr./photos/150940429@N02/), on Flickr

so, the car is being driven again. This brings us up to today, where I used it to run errands. There's still a bit of carb tweaking to do, and a LOT of cleaning. Idle isnt right yet, and some bogging/hesitation. But, the car is starting better than ever, and the fear is gone. Today, I actually had joy driving it to my doctor appointment. (im not going hardly anywhere, and haven't in weeks. I'm in the category of folks that this will kill due to lung issues) i didn't fear coming home on a wrecker, or worry about it except returning to idle. So very, very nice.

So, short list:
reinstall hood.
Tune carb and ignition.
Fix speedometer and tach calibration
hook up parking brakes.
New lowering blocks and spring clamps in back
set front ride height and align
install passengers seat and console
fix HVAC issues and charge freon
replace dead head unit, upgrade sub amp
detail headlight to taillight.

[GRIMMEY71]

Loving this, hope you get to enjoy it finally

[dusterbd13]

Last budget: 12,021.34 ish
Money spent and made:
lowering blocks: 35
parking brake cables 60
seatbelt anchor plates: 14


New total: 12,130.34ish

so, got the carb swap finished and the car back together. Proof of concept was driving it around town.
That let me get to the to do list in a serious fashion.

First, swapping the dead stereo and parts. I raided my boxes, and came up with an extra pair of 3.5 for center dash speakers, and rockford fosgate amp, some wires, etc. ran the fosgate to the old ws6 sub in a 2 ohm load (400 watts RMS), bridged the kenwood 744 to power the kicks, ran the 3.5 and 6x9 off the new digital media receiver. This thing is AWESOME. Almost 2000 watts, 9 speakers, and just great audio package.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/49754821707_60229fc151_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iNEt4z)20200404_173523 (https://flic.kr/p/2iNEt4z) by Michael Crawford (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/), on Flickr
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/49754485721_673f037b61_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iNCKbH)20200404_180707 (https://flic.kr/p/2iNCKbH) by Michael Crawford (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/), on Flickr

went ahead and chased some gremlins in the dash harness (HVAC and tach ground), and tightened and tidied up everything. Also finally hooked up the emergency brake stuff. 1974 Chrysler town and country wagon passenger side cables were proper length. And I only had to tweak the neon parts a smidge by opening up the holes in the cable bridge piece.

I also relocated the reels of the seatbelts. This fixed the sensitivity issues when pulling the buckle end. It also let the seats move properly. I tacked the plats in, and then triangulated them to the horizontal of the floor plans with backing plats and such. Feel pretty good about it.
Got the rest of the interior back together except for the passengers seat. Still need the good welder for that, and im stuck in quarantine due to serious lung issues.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/49754869797_3ffbc4a7ae_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iNEHmH)20200409_161955 (https://flic.kr/p/2iNEHmH) by Michael Crawford (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/), on Flickr

I also un-flipped the rear leaf spring hangars. The front spring eye was hitting the floor and causing a lot of noise. I went ahead and got 4 inch angled blocks which set the height properly. Clamped the leafs in the front segment, painted them, and put the car back down.

Then, I went about getting the car cleaned up. Washed, stripped, claybar, meguires 205 on a black foam pad on the porter cable DA, mothers california gold wax. Lots and lots and lots of work. But.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/49754842432_df0ed9282c_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iNEzdU)20200407_120442 (https://flic.kr/p/2iNEzdU) by Michael Crawford (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/), on Flickr
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/49753997358_4f44873a3d_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iNAf1E)20200409_161920 (https://flic.kr/p/2iNAf1E) by Michael Crawford (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/), on Flickr
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/49754873727_aebd4a0209_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iNEJwt)20200409_161948 (https://flic.kr/p/2iNEJwt) by Michael Crawford (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/), on Flickr
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/49754876887_935cfb540b_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iNEKsX)20200409_162108 (https://flic.kr/p/2iNEKsX) by Michael Crawford (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/), on Flickr

the main thing in this update is THIS.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/49762717452_920c3590d2_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iPmWc7)20200411_110604 (https://flic.kr/p/2iPmWc7) by Michael Crawford (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/), on Flickr

im driving the car. And enjoying it. Its like coming home. My head and heart have some peace after 60 miles in it today. No fear of getting home. No concerns about what strange **** it will do next. Just a pleasure drive to check on my folks from 10 yards up the driveway. Going on some errands. Taking the long way home. Its not flawless. Its got a hunting idle, a small bog, and not as much power as I remember it having before all this. But its BACK. And I have faith.

[JayinMI]

Interesting application of a 1st gen Neon console. lol. Car looks awesome!

Jay

[DionR]

Any updates?