Options for raising the brake pedal

[rohrt]

I swapped my manual drums for power disks and it all seems to be working well but I need to raise my break pedal. It comes pretty close to botteming out on the floor. More importantly is my accelerator pedal. I had to bend my accelerator pedal out to get full travel on my Q-Jet. My break peddal rod is in the right hole and fully exstended out. The big issue I have is the accelerator peddal is about even with the break so If I slid my foot off the gas and side step on to the break I can be pushing the gas at the same time. Not safe! I have big feet.

Anyway What options would I have to add an inch to the rod?(Yeah, thats what she said).

[65 Fastback]

You could replace your Master Cylinder with a slightly larger boar.

Tim

[nullshine]

Here's a nice sized one. Should help things out a little.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/boar2b-1.jpg

[MrQuick]

I swapped my manual drums for power disks and it all seems to be working well but I need to raise my break pedal. It comes pretty close to botteming out on the floor. More importantly is my accelerator pedal. I had to bend my accelerator pedal out to get full travel on my Q-Jet. My break peddal rod is in the right hole and fully exstended out. The big issue I have is the accelerator peddal is about even with the break so If I slid my foot off the gas and side step on to the break I can be pushing the gas at the same time. Not safe! I have big feet.

Anyway What options would I have to add an inch to the rod?(Yeah, thats what she said).

sounds like you got the wrong hole....ok too easy James. LOL

You will have to relocate your booster to pedal rod hole as they are different for manual or power applications and your gas pedal issue is either an incorrect cable, incorrect carb cable bracket or incorrect throttle lever.

Vince

[formula]

Anyway What options would I have to add an inch to the rod?(Yeah, thats what she said).

Why does she have a rod? :eek:

[rohrt]

Thanks for the laughs but I still have a break issue:(

I didn't think of it at the time but I had to put a screw into the break light switch to get to the peddal to touch it. As you can see i'm in the correct bottom hole.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2440331390055925676bkxiPH)

And I'm all the way out on the threads.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2713312970055925676hdmABp)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2388093740055925676XjWgsh)

Can anyone tell me what the proper distance here should be?
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2167633850055925676SkEOaF)

[TnBlkC230WZ]

What Master and booster are you using. Do you have the correct push rod in the booster? My CPP booster came with two different pushrods that go into the booster. If you use the wrong one, the brake peddle will be too low.

[novaderrik]

take that screw out of hte brake light switch and buy/make a longer pushrod to allow the pedal to sit back up against the light switch.. well, to sit up against the stop that should be back there..

[rohrt]

Update.

After reading and obscene amount of data on team camaro on this issue. It looks like my break pedal was with in a inch of being correct if not exactly correct. Acctually the whole set up is correct from what I read.

The pedal measurement in the pic was from the bend in the peddal arm and not the peddal itself.

The measurement thrown out on team camaro was from the peddal to the metal firewall. I had the kick plate and carpet in so I would guess that is about 1/2 inch to 3/4. Sorry I don't have the number in fornt of me of what team camaro said but I think it was 6 or 7 inches.

It sounds like my pushrod should have 1/16 of play and that seemed about right.

A factory first gen F body with disc breaks should have a spacer that bolts to the top hole of the break peddal. They sell this at Ricks camaro and now at Classic Industries. Thus the reason for the bolt I have in the end of the break switch. I did have manual drum breaks before.

Reading the factory manual there is no adjustment of the peddal so I exstended the push rod with a fine thread cuppler I got from Ace hardware. I like the extra hight I have now.

It stops OK but I can't seem to lock them up at all. I vacume blead the lines last year when I got the break put together and I saw no bubbles before I buttoned it up, but I'm thinking I should check them one more time to be sure.

[MonzaRacer]

To firm up pedal and make it gain pressure rise use a smaller bore master cylinder. So if you have 1 1/8" bore try 1" or 7/8". This allows faster pressure rise. ALSO I have diagnosed several local brake conversions from drum to disc(I am a MAster Tech at a local chain repair shop) and have actually had issues with cars still running any 1/4" lines over 3/16".
Again smaller bore allows pressure rise.
See disc brakes use pressure to move a big piston a small amount 0.003" to 0.005" max, whereas drum brakes use less pressure and larger amounts of fluid to move brake shoes 0.050" - 0.080" if not adjusted properly. This is why most cars wiAth rear drum get a better pedal after a rear clean and adjust.
also IF you cant wont change lines and still have some remaining issues you can order 2 psi pressure check valves from Wilwood, Baer, etc. These will hold slight amount of pressure and keep pistons a tad closer.
Drum brake usually had 10 psi checks to help with pedal feel.

[pitts64]

I would try the top hole. If you have a lumpy cam and low vacuum it will help. Looking at your photos, it looks like you are loosing a lot extending the rod to the bottom hole... If the brakes get too touchy, try a 1-1/8 bore master. If you are using the manual brake master it's probably 1" bore..

You could drill another hole behind the factory hole and then fill the factory hole.. I did this and it really adds to the pedal height...

[Madspeed]

I know this is REALLLLLLY old but folks all the swaps Ive done in my junkyard days were low hole is for power brakes and upper hole is for maual. Reason is ? power brakes would suck to the floor with a feather on the upper hole and maual would need a body builder to push. think about the leverage=), Gm cleverly tilted the booster up at an angle ever wonder why? nuff said?