PDA

View Full Version : suspension upgrade 66 El camino



rrelco
07-13-2010, 06:17 AM
Need help with suspension upgrade, I want my El camino to handle so this is what I currently have Hotchkis front (hollow) bar and there rear along with frame brackets.

This will be my street driver and some autocross action
So I am not sure what components would be good my budget is about 2,500 my current parts list is:
SPC upper
BMR lower
BMR rear arms
BMR springs
L&H custom billet aluminum tall spindles along with there steering arms.
CCP 13" big brake C5 corvette style clipers

Not sure if I should go with coil overs or stay with coil springs

someone please give me direction on your thoughts

Randy67
07-13-2010, 06:41 AM
Save a little cash and go with coil springs. Everything else looks like a pretty good starting point.

You can check the For Sale section to see what all I have done to my suspension. Here it is:
https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=69638

rrelco
07-13-2010, 07:06 AM
Save a little cash and go with coil springs. Everything else looks like a pretty good starting point.

You can check the For Sale section to see what all I have done to my suspension. Here it is:
https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=69638




I like it....so the coil springs did you cut those to get it to site so nice?
I like the pan hard rod set up also was that easy to do?

Randy67
07-13-2010, 12:10 PM
No spring cutting. The fronts are 5 x 9.5" stock car springs with hidden adjusters, while the rear are 5.5" x 11" with a single pigtail, same style as your stock springs, but from circle track suppliers.

Panhard bar wasn't too bad to do. I used this for the axle side: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Panhard-Behind-Rear-End-Bracket-Weld-On,3381.html
and 2 x 3" box steel for the frame. I cut the box steel so it went up the inside of the frame instead of just welding to the bottom of the frame. There also is a cross brace running from the box steel to the other side of the frame. You can make out some of it in this shot.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

rrelco
07-14-2010, 06:05 AM
No spring cutting. The fronts are 5 x 9.5" stock car springs with hidden adjusters, while the rear are 5.5" x 11" with a single pigtail, same style as your stock springs, but from circle track suppliers.

Panhard bar wasn't too bad to do. I used this for the axle side: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Panhard-Behind-Rear-End-Bracket-Weld-On,3381.html
and 2 x 3" box steel for the frame. I cut the box steel so it went up the inside of the frame instead of just welding to the bottom of the frame. There also is a cross brace running from the box steel to the other side of the frame. You can make out some of it in this shot.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif


so on the adjusters is that a challenge to do? remove spring to adjust height do you remember how much adjustment you set yours at
thanks for all your input

Erich

Randy67
07-14-2010, 08:32 AM
With the shock disconnected, the control arm drops just enough to be able to adjust it. The spring doesn't have to come out but it is easier. I would put some notches in the adjuster to make it easier to turn since the adjuster is smooth on the outside edge. My adjuster is all the way down (tallest ride height), I had trimmed the adjusters to match the shape of the upper spring pocket and to allow it to sit lower, but I cut a little too much off so I can't get it any higher, but can go lower. Currently the lower bumpstop is about 1.5" from the frame, upper control arm is about the same distance from the frame as well (with the SPC upper arm its closer to the frame than stock), so I am in the middle of the travel.