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View Full Version : 68 GTO aligned and not drifts to right, but Just tires says it is not the alignment



BAD68GTO
07-06-2010, 10:37 AM
I have owned this car for 15 years. I just replaced the upper and lower control arm bushings on my stock control arms with urethane bushings. I run 18s all around 245/45 and 305/40 on the rear if memory serves me right. My car drove straight before I put the bushings on and always for the last 15 years drove fine. I got it aligned to stock specs and drove it home. I noticed the wheel was straight, but the car went to the right if you let go of the wheel and you always had to have your hand on the wheel or it would go right. Not drastic, but a noticeable drift that was never done before.

I was quoted $75 for the alignment, but double if I didn't want my wheels jeopardized from the alignment piece scratching my new wheels. I said no problem, I will spend the extra money. I also asked for a before and after print out and tipped the guy doing my alignment a $20 bill. God has been very good to me and I like my car perfect. I get the bill and it is $171.74 with the “$10.50 shop supplies” and tax and pay it.

I then contacted the manager after driving the car by going back to the store the very next day. He says immediately it is not the alignment and that it “in spec”. I told him it was fine before and never had a problem and it has to be the alignment as my tires are new with 100 miles or so on them and I owned the car for 15 years. He asked if I was referring to the car drifting when holding or letting go of the wheel. I told him when I let go, it goes to the right and he said that doesn’t matter-it only matters when you hold the wheel. At this point, I am beginning to get upset, but in control of myself and I am like “look, it is the alignment, the car was perfect before.” He started getting upset saying that it was in spec, but he would put it on the rack next week and check it, but if it was in spec, there is nothing they could do. I checked my printout and called my one friend who is a medically retired Master ASE tech with years of alignment experience and he laughed when I told him the specs. Here is what my car is aligned to:
Camber Left +.2 degrees Camber Right +.4 degrees
Caster Left -1.4 degrees Caster Right -1.5 degrees
Toe .08 degrees on both sides

My buddy said they have no idea and why the car is drifting is the right caster should be higher relative to the left where it is currently lower by .1 degree. Even on a dead straight road around here which is REALLY hard to find as most are crowned, it still drifts to the right slightly. This place has aligned two of my other vehicles and always were good and I even purchased tires on two of my vehicles, but I want to go in with my t’s crossed and I’s dotted and even refer them to this thread of need be. Perhaps they are not acclimated to working on older cars like this is what I suspect-I just don’t want a hassle going in, but I suspect I will get one unless I can articulate exactly what is off in detail with the alignment. I would be happy to take my car elsewhere and get it corrected as I know it is in the alignment, but of course I would want my money back to boot. Thanks for helping me with this headache-for $171.74 for an alignment I should not even have to type a post up like this but I want to get an effective resolution and thanks in advance for any help by people in the know. Gary

Bryce
07-06-2010, 11:18 AM
first of all that sucks.

Personally, I would like to have -1* camber on both sides and as must caster as possible, +4-5*.

Next time tell them what you want.

a67
07-06-2010, 12:21 PM
I didn't check, but I'll bet that it is in spec. For a stock '68 GTO, not one with modern radial tires. At a minimum the caster needs to be positive, not negative.

The camber should be adjusted for driving style, what is expected from the driver for handling, and tire wear.

Bob

jknight16
07-06-2010, 12:54 PM
Maybe they need to stick to "Just Tires". I feel your pain though, I had a similar experience trying to get my car aligned. Now I'm learning how to do my own so that I can only have myself to blame if something isn't right.

Camber should be negative, caster should be positive, and if the guy wants to keep customers happy it's a good idea to compensate for the crown in the road.

I presume you did not supply them with the specs that you wanted? That would be a good idea for the future.

LowBuckX
07-06-2010, 01:43 PM
wow find a new place That "double price" for no scratched wheels is bull I paid $65 for a full alignment when I replaced bushings ball joints and inner/outer tierods. Also used custom specs that was given to me from this site. ..

BAD68GTO
07-06-2010, 07:54 PM
Many thanks to all who have posted and I am grateful for the input. Currently sick in bed with the flu or I would have had my car there already I suspect. So I know I can give them custom specs going forward, I want to address what is wrong with the current alignment that would make the car drift to the right. Is anyone qualified to say that the right castor should be higher than the left? Even on what I deem to be a level surface, it still goes slightly to the right. I think they simply just "align to spec" without regard to how it all works and frankly as much as I am into cars, I am not an alignment person and only understand the basic principles to be honest. What exact specs should I have on the car for street driving with moderate regular handling and quarter mile performance? This car is VERY close to getting on two wheels and might pull the front end off the ground on a hook as it is :-) Thanks guys! Gary

a67
07-07-2010, 05:40 AM
Yes, as your ASE friend also mentioned, more caster on the right to compensate for road crown. And not too much either. A couple tenths of a degree is all that is required.

Otherwise it will pull hard to the left on a flat road (non-crowned). Which is bad as it puts you into the wrong lane.

When aligning the cars here I try to get the alignments as square as possible. With the caster always being biased toward the right side. That is +3.5 L and +3.4 R caster is a no go.

While +3.5 L and +3.6 R is OK. Same with +3.5 L, +3.5 R being OK. Has to do with the lack of crowns on the roads around here.

Bob