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View Full Version : ATS and G mod... No Trabajo



XLexusTech
07-02-2010, 11:36 AM
jut noticed https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=66173

looks like if you use the ATS coil over brackets you cant do a Gmod? So your stuck with either ATS spindles for over a grand or tall balljoints...

Am I wrong?

MrQuick
07-02-2010, 10:03 PM
Call Tyler or Blake, I am sure he'd be happy to send you a spare trabajo.

Vince

dipren443
07-02-2010, 10:10 PM
jut noticed https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=66173

looks like if you use the ATS coil over brackets you cant do a Gmod? So your stuck with either ATS spindles for over a grand or tall balljoints...

Am I wrong?

Not sure where you are getting that... The Chicane coil over brackets do nothing to change your suspension geometry. You should still be able to perform the Guldstrand mod if you plan on running stock short spindles.

XLexusTech
07-03-2010, 03:56 AM
View the above link... post 4 third picture notice the forward control arm mounting bolt...... Looks like if you tried to drop it down as needed for the G mod it would be smack in the middle of the bracket.....

neki67
07-03-2010, 06:41 AM
View the above link... post 4 third picture notice the forward control arm mounting bolt...... Looks like if you tried to drop it down as needed for the G mod it would be smack in the middle of the bracket.....

Forward in the pic but in reality that's the rear control arm mounting bolt.

G-mod makes it go lower and further to the rear = more to the right side in that particular pic. With a bit of luck it will follow the line of the bracket and otherwise the coil over bracket should be welded a bit more forward = more to the left side in the pic.

exwestracer
07-03-2010, 07:50 AM
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/Upper20Mount20TogetherJPG-1.jpg

Keep in mind that the only load against the top coilover bolt is vertical. You could reshape that rear bracing plate to allow the bolt to sit lower without compromising the strength at all. I would recommend using AN bolts and running them in from the cross shaft side. That way you only need clearance for the nut and tip of the bolt, but the shank will still be going through the mount plate. If you can't find AN bolts or it's not in the budget, run a fine thread Grade 8 with a shank long enough to get through the shaft and mount plate, then cut the excess threads off. Use a "Stover" lock nut, as it is shallower than a Nylock.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
I just did this same basic thing with the subframe on the "Vintage Viper", but we cut everything off the top of the frame and started over with shorter UCA mounting plates.

neki67
07-03-2010, 12:42 PM
After thinking about it a little more and looking at the pictures in more detail; you can clearly see the uca mounting being rewelded. Properly this time and not the poor factory welds. In fact, one of the (cleanest) ways of doing the G-mod is to cut of the entire uca mount, shorten it and place it slighty more to the rear. DSE delivers a fixture to do just (about) so but that can only be done with the engine out! http://www.detroitspeed.com/productpages/indproduct/frontsuspensionprod/coilover_kit_prod.htm
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

BTW; if you look at the old ATS site, you will find the following:
Since the factory upper control arm mounting bracket remains unaltered, the kit can be used with factory or Guldstrand modified frames.
http://store.nexternal.com/shared/StoreFront/default.asp?CS=ats&StoreType=BtoC&Count1=779323756&Count2=696464180

killer69
07-03-2010, 03:52 PM
there is no reason with a little extra time you couldnt cut out that one web and move the bolt down, keep in mind it is not required to move the bolt back as the upper control arms have the added caster built into them. the reason they moved the mounting back was to add caster with the stock upper arm.
go for it !