Making the best out of a bad paint job.

[Ryanater]

I have a 69 Camaro with a fairly fresh paint job that just didn't turn out very good at all. It was done about 3 1/2 years ago for $1900 including replacing both quarter panels (which I supplied). Anyway the actual bodywork is pretty decent and the car is solid, but the paint job is leaving much to be desired.

First of all it is base coat/clear coat painted silver with black stripes.

There are several spots where I can see sanding marks.
The paint seems very dull.
The surface doesn't have a very smooth feel to it like a higher end paint job. (not rough, it just doesn't have that glassy feel)

I know I can't make it look perfect but I was wondering if you guys could help give me a few pointers on how to make the paint look any better without taking it in for new paint.

I have no experience with any sort of bodywork or paint but I could learn to do a few simple things if need be.

I will post pictures later tonight.

Thanks for the help!

[6'9"Witha69]

probably never cut and buffed. That amkes a huge difference in overall paint appearance and feel. It is also a long job, not one that would be done in 1,900 worth of paint job.

[Bsporty]

Sorry to hear bout your troubles...We could really use some pics!
You would be amazed at what wet sanding and buffing can do.
Depending on how bad it is it might be better to just saand and reshoot the clear.

[justasquid]

If you can see sanding marks, buffing it out won't help any in that department. It can make the paint a bit smoother, as already said, it sounds like it was never cut and buffed. however, you need to be very careful here, there may only be one or two coats of clear on the car. If thats the case, you can cut and buff through the clear pretty quick if its thin. More often than not, if the paint wasn't cut, it was because the intention was never to cut and buff, so they don't use enough clear to cut and buff. Also, even if you don't go through the clear, if enough is removed, it will loose its uv protection and will not protect very well. You will have clear coat failure soon after.

If it were me, just from the description you gave, I'd be inclined to have it blocked out and reshot.

Having said that. 1900 for both quarters replaced and paint is a hell of deal. If the car looked like it painted with a roller, I'd be happy for that price.

[JRouche]

I totally agree with the squid. If you try to do a cut on the clear you will prolly run through to the color. Hell, you might even run into the primer. If the color looks good and its not coming up I would have it wet sanded completely and re-clear coated.

But I would use the same painter. So his products are the same. And let him know about your issues. If you tell him whats wrong he will know what you want and fix it correctly. He can sand the clear down for some additional cost and cut and buff it for you. That way if he runs into problems during the cut/buff he will fix them without you even knowing. Let him know what you expect. And yes, be prepared to fork out some more money. Thats just the cost of having a nice paint job.

NOW.. The real issue. You cant get a color/clear for 1900 bucks. You just cant. Even earl shives cant do that. Not one thats gonna last more than five years.

I would expect a prime and block sanding to cost 1900 bucks, no color. And thats on the far low end. Cause thats where alot of the work is done. Priming and blocking. And thats where the sanding marks come off. No amount of paint or buffing will remove those. You cant fill sanding marks with clear and cut them out.

Sanding marks are a primer section. They need to be taken care of then. But thats if they are very small sanding marks. If the metal has been sanded with 80 grit and left marks then primer wont even fix that. Then its time for filler. And yes, it can be applied like primer. Not a high build primer but a filler (polyester primer). Its "bondo" thats sprayable. But then the blocking takes place. Dont confuse a high build ISO primer with a poly build primer. Big diff.

So.... My main concern would be the prep work done on the original paint. They prolly scuffed it up and shot primer? Then some light sanding to break it down a lil and shot the color. Hmmm.. My question to them would be what primer they used. Not even dissing yer painter but believe it or not I have seen painters use DTM primer on paint. BIG no no. And its obvious, but I have seen it too many times. Most if not all DTM primers have acid in them. Acid on old paint is not good. So you say well wait. The DTM just gets covered in paint, whats the deal? Product line. The paints used. A product line that is meant for each other takes into account of ALL the chemicals in the system. Old GM paint is NOT meant to have a DTM primer on it.

But now Im just assuming they primed it. Worse case, they didnt. Think earl shive. They scuff the paint thats on the car and paint over it. Wounder why it is peeling up in five years.

Solly to go WAY off on a tangent. I dont have a clue for how they painted your car. I shouldnt be making statements and Im not. I dont know what they did so I wont say they F-ed up.. Only they can tell you. JR

[Ryanater]

Thanks for the input.

I realized the paint job wasn't going to be the best when I got it. But it's what I could afford when I was 18. In all honestly it looks great for $1900. And it actually was cut and buffed about a month after the paint but I don't think the best job was done. (it was included in the price)

I guess what I'm asking is there anything I can do other that cut and buff the car? At one point I am planning on repainting the car and I don't want to spend anymore than I have to.

Is there any sort of polish or wax that could possibly shine the car up a little? Or maybe a small amount of buffing or something that a novice like me could do without spending more that a couple hundred bucks or running a risk of going through the clear?

And like I said the car doesn't look horrible. I would just like to get the absolute best looking paint I can until it is time for a nice paint job.

[Ryanater]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/IMG_1063-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/IMG_0661-1.jpg

[JRouche]

Oh, now after seeing your car. Buddy she looks great. Nice 20 ft paint job, and thats all I can get from computer pics. But she looks good.

Thing about silver. It will never have the super shine that say a red, blue or black will have. Not even a white.

I dont know what it is about a silver paint but they just never get the super shine that you might be looking for. Yes, you can get a super clear that will be smooth. But I dont know, silver just has that "thing". Like it is so neutral to light that it doesnt reflect or absorb the light. Its just in the middle. Where a dark color will absorb the light and show itself. And a white will reflect the light and show itself..

But silver. Ill be honest, its another animal. Its not dark enough, and not light enough to show some extremes.. Look at some of the OEM paint jobs. Silver has been tried but its not a go to. And for some odd reason, from what I have noticed. It oxidizes pretty darn fast. Goes from a nice shine to flat. Even the clear coated cars. Not many silver cars. Some. Honda has one that looks durable...

I dont know what it is with silver.. JR



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/IMG_1063-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/IMG_0661-1.jpg

[Mr.VENGEANCE]

for 1900 bucks.. and to look like that... id say you were

A. https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

B. https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/pickyeaters-1.jpg

C. or homeboy told you from the jump that the paint was going to be the shiniest on the planet.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/gulliblenotme-1.gif

in which this case you should have known just as he turned the corner and you seen this..

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif














































oh... and how can you make it look better?

take it out here:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif


and get some of these...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
you dig...

[OLDFLM]

Just hit it with some NXT 2.0 and be happy with it... it looks GREAT in the pictures for what you paid!! My $2000 paint job lasted over 18 years before I had it repainted! Don't cut it again... don't risk ruining what you have unless you're prepared to pay for the show quality paint job you're wanting. I'd just wax it and keep it clean with some detail spray and a microfiber and be happy with it as is!

FWIW I'd turn the white letters on the front tires in... and get rid of those APC seats... they just don't fit the car... IMHO

[Riderz Cycle]

I also have to agree with squid...If you try to wet sand and buff it you might break into the base and then you have bigger problems. Not knowing how many coats of clear and not having and experience with wet sanding and buffing you might NOT want to try it yourself. Looks like the base is good so if you want that semi-show paint job for a little bit more money I would have a shop wet sand it and reclear. Tough part about silver is if you can see sanding marks probably from the filler wet sanding and reclearing it might not cover those up depending on how deep they are. JMTC

[John Wright]

just a thought, rather than speculating....Could borrow a DFT gage and see just how much paint is actually there before you cut and buff.

[justasquid]

just a thought, rather than speculating....Could borrow a DFT gage and see just how much paint is actually there before you cut and buff.

would that show how thick the clear is? or just how thick the paint is on top of the metal? Such as if the car wasn't completely stripped down to bare metal, and there were several coats of paint under the repaint?

Just curious. I really don't have any experience with such a gage.