Fatman fab Susp upgrade

[DButler]

I was reading about the fatman fabrication suspension upgrade for a 67 camaro. It looked like a pretty simple install. I was wondering if this kit is any good?

[ProdigyCustoms]

Not our favorite

[6'9"Witha69]

There are many better routes.

AME, DSE, Speedtech, JRS, TCI

[DButler]

I also was reading and looking at the Heidts setup, it seemed pretty reasonably priced. What do you guys recommend? I would love to go DSE everything, but their out of my budget. I am looking something that can perform good for drag racing, autocross and streetable. After upgrading to twin turbos it is time for the suspension. When do the rear I want to minitub. Can I still use my original tank if I go with one of the kits or do I have to switch over to a narrowed tank?

[Rhino]

I notice you list drag racing first. Is that your top priority? To determine what you want to do for a suspension, you need to have a 100% honest and realistic view of what you'll be using the car for.

You'll probably want to look into a mini-tub if you run any larger than a 285 tire. Your choice of an original or narrowed tank will probably be made by the suspension and/or exhaust type you choose. With a link type suspension you'll find it difficult to get frame rails, links, coil overs and full exhaust out to the rear of the car.

Take the suggestion for what it's worth, but I would personally do the suspension prior to the turbo. The reason I say that is the turbo placement, engine placement and frame clearance will dictate exhaust routing. If any one of those items changes (which is likely depending on frame selection), it will require exhaust work. I'd hate to be required to go back and re-work the exhaust after it was just finished.

[DButler]

The problem is that I just finished the turbo setup. I should have focused on suspension better. I mean I don't want a full blown dragster of auto cross I want a car that handles good and performs well. I just want a suspension that is kind well rounded. Im not going to be dragging or road racing much just mostly driving on street. I am mostly focusing on the rear. I will do a mini tub when I do suspension. prefer to do away with the leafs and go 4-link coilover from what I read 4-link is well rounded system. Opinons please?

[Rhino]

If you're mainly focused on the rear, I don't think doing the turbo first would cause much problem. For what you've described, I would stick with the stock sub. With a few upgrades it can be a strong performer.
Upgrade to a set of tubular arms, tall ball joints, more modern steering box, a good set of shocks, springs, and a matching sway bar.

A 4 link can be very well rounded for the rear. There are a number of them to choose from. I believe quite a few people here are running the Chris Alston G-bar. (similar to RideTech's air bar with coil overs)
If you're wanting to do full exhaust, you'll likely end up using a narrowed tank.

[ProdigyCustoms]

$2500 in a stock subframe will make for a very nice handling and riding suspension package

[DButler]

I already have hotchkis lowering springs in the front witheir big sway bar. I just installed a sweet mfg, 12:1 gear box. I installed poly bushing a while back in the original control arms. I will be going to tubular next. What brand do you guys recommend?

[ProdigyCustoms]

A set of tubular arms and good shocks will make it mint

[DButler]

What company do you recommend for the tubular arms and also for the rear setup?

[ProdigyCustoms]

|Hotchkis or Speedtech for the arms. The rear depends on you budget and needs.

[Mkelcy]

What company do you recommend for the tubular arms and also for the rear setup?

If you don't care about going around corners, there's no need to change from the factory arms. If you do care about going around corners, arms won't really make any difference because arms - by themselves - don't improve the front end geometry, as well Frank knows.

As for the rear, again it depends on how you want to use the car.

[Rhino]

I would agree that they don't have a significant effect on geometry by themselves, however they do offer a greater amount of caster without significant shimming. The added caster will effect return to center giving the car a more modern feel.

It's a set of tall ball joints that make the combination better in my book. Otherwise, one could always look into the Guldstrand mod for a little geometry correction.

[DButler]

I would like to do some autocross at the Goodguys shows and come to some of the gathering and runs that you guys meet at. I hve the steering box, sway bars and springs already. Like I said my car is a street car and I don't instead to perform like DSE but I want to have fun. I also want to run good from redlight to redlight lol I like the arms and some good shocks will complete the front for now until the money comes in for a new frame and all I am just waiting till I graduate from college. Plus my budget is running short after installing the twin turbo setup. I was going to get a Heidts system this fall. Do you guys like the heidts rear system? As for exhaust I am running SLP with turndowns. With turndowns can I still run my stock gas tank since I have sumped it? i want to run a 12" rim. Plus it seemed like a simple system to install. Does it perform well for the money?

[DButler]

Also where will I get the tall ball joints? Also how do I setup a PT garage so I can post pictures?

[ProdigyCustoms]

They do offer a geometry improvment if you redrill the control arm shaft mounting holes lower. Which you cannot do with stock arms unless you get involved in cutting off the mount completely.

So if you lower the arm and gain caster, you have improved geometry.

[DButler]

Where do you dil the hol? Aso whe did I buy a good set of tall ball joints? asty is the Heidts rear systm any good? Can I use my original tank if I dnt do a full length exhaust?

[Rhino]

The new holes that Frank was mentioning is usually referred to as the Guldstrand mod. If you search for it, you'll easily find it. It essentially relocates the upper A-arm mount point.

I would suggest doing the A-arm relocation OR the tall ball joints. Not both of them together. There are a number of vendors that sell them. I would stick with the ones manufactured by Howe (http://www.howeracing.com/) I'll leave it up to you to find a vendor if you go down that route.