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View Full Version : Project AlterEgo, Driveabeater take notice



joemac
06-16-2010, 02:01 PM
This is my little '93 Ranger project. I bought it in November '09 and let it sit until February until I was ready to put it on the road. It's got the infamous 2.3l four banger 5 speed manual. Truck has 222K miles on it and I paid $500 cash.

This is what it needed to just go through inspection;

Cat back exhaust
Rear shocks
Rear brake line across axle
Front brake rotors and pads
Upper and lower ball joints both sides
Front wheel bearings
Coolant change
Heater core
Water pump/thermostat
Motor oil and filter
Air filter
Trans fluid change
Shifter knob
Front and rear windshields
Rear view mirror
Wiper blades
Fuel level sending unit and fuel lines coming out of tank
Rear cab mounts and bushings
Dome light
Tag light
Battery hold down
Battery cables

I've been driving it around in desperate need of tires and I don't even have a radio for it yet. It also needs a little body work, shackles and hangers before they dsintegrate and the core support needs to be replaced badly. I'm in it about $1600 including putting it on the road and the purchase price. I will try to provide a precise budget just like driveabeater has.

After subscribing to the Driveabeater thread and seeing how much fun Michael was having building his little GMC mini truck I got the idea that I would build mine in the same manner except opposite of him, his is GMC, mine is Ford. His is black I plan a color change to white eventually. He is swapping in a v6 I plan on a turbo diesel. Hence the name AlterEgo. You can check his thread out here if you're not familiar with it Project Driveabeater (https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43374)

I also call it the junkyard dog because I try to buy as many used parts as possible and get as many parts from the junkyard as I can find. It was also in poor enough condition when I bought it most reasonable people would have called the junk man to come get it. But I'm having a good time wrenching on it. I'm consistently knocking down 22 mpg. A couple preliminary pics;

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/truckbuildpics039-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/truckbuildpics015-1.jpg

Future plans include 12" explorer sport trac front rotors with '95-'97 spindles and twin piston calipers with spacer bracket, 12" sn95 cobra brakes in back, lowered 3/5 and a I5, 2.7l Mercedes turbo diesel out of a Sprinter van. It has a factory turbo, 4v per cylinder, common rail and an aluminum head. Stock power is around 160 and 270tq with 180/290 a tune away, mated to either a t56 or a tr6060 I believe that's what the new 6 speeds are anyway. I'll be doing some body mods, updating the front end to '98-00, doing a nice spray in liner and a decent head unit with gps and dvd. I'll be adding a/c too, these MD summers are hot and humid. This truck will be a driver first and foremost but will be able to do a little corner carving. Immediate plans will be a shackle hanger flip which will get me a free 2" lower in back and a decent set of wheels most likely Mustang Bullits or 10th anny cobras.

joemac
06-16-2010, 02:05 PM
So since this is a budget build I found a used Bronco II rear sway bar for $75 which is either 5/8 or 3/4". I bolted it on it an hour and it made such a huge difference I couldn't believe it. The ass end of the truck doesn't feel like it kicks out when I hit a bad pothole and the truck stays so flat in the corners I could put a level across the dash. I swear it even tracks straighter going down the road.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

joemac
06-16-2010, 02:11 PM
My Landlord had another tenant move out and left behind a '94 explorer that he said I could have anything I wanted off of it, that he was calling the junk man as soon as I was done and wanted it out of there so I got the;

Entire a/c system
P/w, p/dl, p/m door wiring harnesses
Gauges with tach
8.8" trac lok diff
Tilt steering column
Radio which turned out to be bad
Visors
Brake fluid level sensor harness plug which is making my ABS light stay on and actually made my rear brakes work much better that it's fixed. Mine was corroded to the point of disintegration.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Can you say stripped?

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
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Most of my junk parts;

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Installing the gauges with tach, since the gauges are modular I just took out the expo spedo/odo and put mine in and kept my correct mileage
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Installing the a/c ready hvac control

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/truckbuildpics083-1.jpg

All Done and the tach works great

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Installation of the nice light/mirror visors with the extra portion to wall you in. Don't mind my faded, holy headliner. I have plans to redo it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
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joemac
06-16-2010, 02:16 PM
I picked up a '95 mustang rear with high 2.73 gears and a trac lok. I paid $125 for it and am hoping to sell the track lok for about a $100 and the 5 lug axles which the fox 4 lug mustang guys use to upgrade to 5 lugs for about another $100 or so. I am using the disc brakes off of it to put on the rear of my truck. I hate the squeaky, sticky junk rear drums which need repair anyway, so an upgrade is the only way to go. With a simple mod they bolt on. I will get pictures of this when I complete it in the next few days or week.

I plan to find an 8.8" rear out of a ranger to replace my 7.5" and should be able to sell my 7.5" axles to the same fox 4 lug mustang guys so I should come well ahead on the axle and rear disc projects.

The mustang rear

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
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My two 8.8" trac loks, they look dimensionally the same but one has a bigger pin, does anybody know if there is a difference? I was under the impression they were all the same. I'm going to rebuild one and use it myself and sell the other one for about $100.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Mustang axles, also worth about $100

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

The disc brakes for my ranger

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The mustang backing plates go on the front side of the axle housing ends like this, the ranger you have to cut out a section to get it over the axle and they bolt to the back of the housing ends. A small mod to attach the em brake and they are complete bolt on. Pictures to follow on the installation, maybe next week. Have to get some axle seals and some Amsoil gear oil of course.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif


My tilt column, probably going in next week or sometime this weekend now that I know how to get the ignition lock cylinder out. How easy things are when you know the right way to do them.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Doober
06-16-2010, 04:33 PM
Looks like a fun little project :D

dusterbd13
06-16-2010, 05:38 PM
damn this build looks vaugely familiar. i just cant place it.......


looks like a pretty good start, especially for being a maryland truck. im suprised to see bedsides on it.

also, a friend of mine had a 4.0l 5speed ranger of this body style. had cobra 5 spokes, flowmaster catback, and a 4/5 drop. thing really handled pretty good. it was a fun truck till it got wanked by a drunk in the pass side cab corner and bed.

i like the fact that you got free parts. gotta love raiding the good stuff from the suv's for our lowly little trucks.

you gonna keep a running tally like that other build i cant think of?

also, gonna come down to the RTTH and play with me? show what our little sport trucks can do?


anyway, keep up the good work.
michael

Doober
06-16-2010, 06:22 PM
On the subject of 4 cylinder Rangers, I saw one guy on the opposite side of the intersection a few days ago in a mid-'90s Ranger. After he got across the intersection he shifted, and I heard a blow off valve... thought it was pretty cool that he was running a turbo 8)

joemac
06-16-2010, 06:25 PM
damn this build looks vaugely familiar. i just cant place it.......


looks like a pretty good start, especially for being a maryland truck. im suprised to see bedsides on it.

also, a friend of mine had a 4.0l 5speed ranger of this body style. had cobra 5 spokes, flowmaster catback, and a 4/5 drop. thing really handled pretty good. it was a fun truck till it got wanked by a drunk in the pass side cab corner and bed.

i like the fact that you got free parts. gotta love raiding the good stuff from the suv's for our lowly little trucks.

you gonna keep a running tally like that other build i cant think of?

also, gonna come down to the RTTH and play with me? show what our little sport trucks can do?


anyway, keep up the good work.
michael

Yea, I really lucked out getting some parts off the explorer. It's a shame I couldn't part it out, I could have made probably over a grand by selling off the parts but he didn't want it sitting any longer than I needed it.

I really really want to make it to RTTH, I might be able to do it if I pitch a tent and camp while I'm there lol. When is it the second or third week in Sept.? Problem is the 2.3l is so gutless. The only thing I will have going is decent brakes, a little lower and sway bars. Although if I can find a decent set of wheels and tires for cheap that will be a huge improvement.

I am really considering adding a turbo to the 2.3l but I really like the diesels so still really undecided on that as of yet. I'm going to finish the suspension mods, do some body upgrades like a roll pan, better mirrors, grille, headlights, make it more comfortable and then get into powerplants. Although I was thinking I may swap in the t56 early and see how it acts behind the 2.3l until I figure out what I'm going to do.

dusterbd13
06-17-2010, 05:34 AM
we can camp together.

on the bright side, were driving trucks. twin sized air matresses fit perfectly between out wheelwells. makes for a good "bed" for the night.

would we be considered the tailgate contingent?

Brandon Miller
06-17-2010, 09:54 AM
Good project. My '91 Ranger I had used 13" Cobra brakes up front.

joemac
06-17-2010, 11:10 AM
Good project. My '91 Ranger I had used 13" Cobra brakes up front.

I will eventually get therm but the 12" sport trac rotors will be a few hundred dollars cheaper and I doubt I will see a huge difference. It's only an inch difference between the two and to my knowledge the ranger dual piston calipers have pistons a few mm bigger than the cobra's.

I suppose we would be the "taligate contingent". If I can find a cap I would so do that. Have to find a good place to take a hot shower though. I'll do a little research on the area and see what my schedule looks like. I believe I have a show that weekend where I will have an Amsoil booth, actually a County Fair but I may be able to have another Dealer work it.

I also found the difference in the explorer trac lok, the explorers had 31 spline axles where the mustangs/rangers only had 28 spline. So I'm keeping the mustang one and hopefully I can find a buyer for the expo one. I think that reduces my market for it though, damn. Can't really complain it was free other than an hours labor so anything I get is profit.

joemac
06-19-2010, 08:22 AM
So daily driving this heap with it's issues forces me to make some repairs as I mod it.

Find a center console lid, the edge even though smooth is surprisingly sharp and my arm can't take it anymore.

Fix the clip holding the brake line as it passes through the frame for the front right wheel. It rattles and drives me crazy.

Get a radio, it's gotten so bad not only am I talking to myself as I'm going down the road I'm starting to answer myself and laugh at my own jokes-out loud-scary lol

My short mod list, also very close to free mods

Rear shackle/hanger flip and leaf removal=4" low in the rear
Take off 1.5 coils of front springs=2" low in front
Install tilt wheel
Install mustang rear disc brakes

I am considering two options for my turbo diesel swap; the 1.9l VW TDI, undecided on the year or a 2.7l Mercedes from a Sprinter van. Each has it's pros and cons

The 1.9l will be an easier swap over all, the electronics will be head and shoulders easier and it is lighter. It's power potential is lower though. With a tune, injectors and turbo upgrade 175hp is possible with a proven 42 approx mpg.

The 2.7l is an I5 and more unproven both in swapping and performance and is slightly heavier. It also has an aluminum head and 20 valves. I don't believe the VW has 4v per cylinder. The electronics will be much more difficult but it is common rail and the stock power is 154hp 243tq. A tune will get 180hp 280tq. So obviously a turbo upgrade and injectors should put it up around 250hp and 310tq.

Help me decide, what do you think about it? Or recommend another turbo diesel as long as it's not a Cummins 6bt, Powerstroke variant or Duramax.

Doober
06-19-2010, 08:37 AM
...not only am I talking to myself as I'm going down the road I'm starting to answer myself and laugh at my own jokes-out loud...
Thanks for the sig line! ;)

joemac
06-19-2010, 09:47 AM
Thanks for the sig line! ;)

Glad to help, lol

dusterbd13
06-19-2010, 12:13 PM
go the easier softer way, joe. trust me.

joemac
06-19-2010, 04:14 PM
go the easier softer way, joe. trust me.

As far as the engine swap goes you mean? I'm still playing with the idea of both of them. They are pretty similar really. If I can get some info on this stand alone ecu for common rail diesels this might be the hot ticket for the Mercedes engine which is the way I'm really leaning. http://www.specialist-components.co.uk/cnb/shop/sconline?merchantPageID=5&op=merchantPage-merchantPageDisplay If this system will work it will make it more or less what I call a nuts and bolts swap. Figure out how to get it bolted down and hoses hooked up and it's done.

I'm done with my tilt wheel swap as well, didn't go as easy as I planned and skinned one of my knuckles and installed the wheel 180* upside down but it's in. I have to finish tomorrow.

All torn down

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/truckbuildpics065-1.jpg

All done, pretty happy with how it turned out. It sits about an inch closer to me and much more comfortable. I still have to do something with the auto shifter slot and I found out the auto cancel for the blinkers isn't working right.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/truckbuildpics093-1.jpg

dusterbd13
06-19-2010, 04:29 PM
yeah, i meant on the engine.

if you can get plug and play engine management, the fab wirk is easy.

the engine management side of things can get complex and expensive quick.

also, make sure that youre not putting a lot of nose weight on. from what i know, diesels can be really heavy. youre already fighting the weight distribution of a truck, so why make it worse?

joemac
06-19-2010, 05:29 PM
yeah, i meant on the engine.

if you can get plug and play engine management, the fab wirk is easy.

the engine management side of things can get complex and expensive quick.

also, make sure that youre not putting a lot of nose weight on. from what i know, diesels can be really heavy. youre already fighting the weight distribution of a truck, so why make it worse?

Yea, I am trying to be mindful of the nose weight. I plan to set the engine back and down as far as possible. I figure since I'm doing custom mounting anyway why not try to maximize the setup. The two engines I'm considering are relatively small and both have aluminum heads. I'm trying to find some weights now, but I am relatively certain they are equal to or less than the v6's in these trucks stock and definitely less than a small block swap.

Weight of VW tdi 1.9l is around 450lbs

Doober
06-19-2010, 07:08 PM
Jeez Louise... that's the dry shipping weight of a regular SBC O_O

joemac
06-19-2010, 07:10 PM
Jeez Louise... that's the dry shipping weight of a regular SBC O_O

Fully dressed? With alum heads or iron? I thought they were a couple hundred lbs more than that? I'll keep looking, I'm not particularly tied to anything yet.

There are guys putting 4bt cummins diesels in rangers (3.9l I4) probably 700lbs or so and telling me that's the way to go. Just put some stiff springs and shocks on it and I won't be able to tell the difference...

Edit; I'm seeing sbc weight as around 550lbs. I use this mostly for reference as I'm not using one. SBF looks like 450-525, obviously approximations. So your weight looks about right then.

Thing is though I can achieve over 30mpg possible breaking 40mpg with a turbo diesel and I'm a diesel head, so... With a v8 I'll be lucky if I'm over 20 but over 500hp or so the v8 might be cheaper but probably not and way less streetable unless it's boosted. I'm not sure I'm going that high anyway. I believe the diesel would be cheaper at the power levels I'm looking at-probably around 300hp and who knows it's only more fuel and boost away from whatever the next level is anyway. I'm also looking to use biodiesel in it.

Doober
06-19-2010, 07:51 PM
I guess you're right... I saw 450 somewhere, that was probably a short- or long-block. I found this after a little searching.
http://www.team.net/sol/tech/engine.html

joemac
06-20-2010, 04:37 AM
Good info, it shows the 2.3l which I have as around 420 and the smaller v6's in the 305-380lb range depending on displacement. Thought it would have been the other way around. Maybe that's part of what makes the 2.3l hard little motors, dunno?

From looking around it looks like the 2.7l MB engine, called the OM612 should weigh around 470. So these turbo diesels I'm looking at are going to be equivalent to a small block swap.

Edit; I posted a thread on TDI Club forums looking for the TDI engine weight. First response was 450, now someone said it's much closer to 350lbs. If that's the case that makes the tdi much more appealing. I will keep looking for better info on the om612.

70Nova4dr
06-21-2010, 02:53 PM
What about the 2.3 turbo, out of an 87-88 thunderbird turbo coupe? I have 1, i was gonna put in my 92 Mustang but i sold the car. They are awesome little engines , and it's an easy swap for a Ranger that already has a 2.3.

joemac
06-21-2010, 02:56 PM
What about the 2.3 turbo, out of an 87-88 thunderbird turbo coupe? I have 1, i was gonna put in my 92 Mustang but i sold the car. They are awesome little engines , and it's an easy swap for a Ranger that already has a 2.3.

Yea, I am considering it. The engine swap is still a ways off so I have some time. They have good mpg, make good power on a budget and bolt in but I'm still undecided. I'm going to get the maintenance work done that it needs, do some suspension/braking mods, do some bodywork and then get into engine swapping.

dusterbd13
06-21-2010, 05:32 PM
sounds like a familiar plan. i researched engine for a couple of years while i did everything else. kept my eyes open for good deals, etc.

if i hadnt gotten the screaming deal on the 3.4, i was looking for a good northstar.

dont overlook the more common swaps. yes, theyre more common. which means theres support for all the siiues youll likely run into.

joemac
06-21-2010, 06:59 PM
sounds like a familiar plan. i researched engine for a couple of years while i did everything else. kept my eyes open for good deals, etc.

if i hadnt gotten the screaming deal on the 3.4, i was looking for a good northstar.

dont overlook the more common swaps. yes, theyre more common. which means theres support for all the siiues youll likely run into.

Oh, yeah the Northstars that would have been a cool swap. I've heard they are popular in the dune buggy world plus an added turbo or two.

I'm hoping to get some maintenance issues take care of this week or next so I can do some suspension mods after that. My door handle is worn out to the point I am worried it will break off, the aforementioned brake line that is rattling and drivers door hinge pin that is worn out. All cheap little things I can do to make it more drivable. Hoping to get my rear disc conversion done soon too. I think I'm going to try to clean up all the brackets and such before I bolt it on.

joemac
07-15-2010, 05:08 PM
Update time. I found a set of '09 Mustang GT bullit style wheels with p zero nero's with 18k miles for $400, not as cheap as I would have liked but a decent deal none the less. My first choice would have been 01-04 bullits but couldn't find a set for less than $400. I am going to have to run spacers to make them look right and not rub up front. They are rubbing the lower shock mount. I know the spacers will screw my scrub radius but I'll take the trade off I think. Also the tires are around 27 1/2 tall which is about 2" taller than I need to be. When it's new tire time I may be able to use a smaller spacer.

I also found a set of 17" 2003 explorer wheels which are a popular upgrade with the Ranger guys. They also require a spacer. I already had my mustang wheels but it was such a screaming good deal I couldn't pass them up. I got the set of 4 rims for a whopping $40 so I expect to over quadruple my money on them. Hoping to get $200 for the set. This should offset my cost on the mustang wheels I am using.

My rear end parts from the mustang rear have proven a little harder to offload than I had expected but I hope I have found a buyer of the axles. It will give me some funds to make upgrades. I bought some little odds and ends that will fix a few issues that have been loose ends for a while.

Wheel pictures to follow tomorrow morning.

MonzaRacer
07-15-2010, 11:58 PM
Heck once you do the upgraded engine you will need the 31 spine center, hang on to it and give moser a call, they have 31 spine street tuff axles for like $255 last time I ordered, the guy kept twisting the over the counter replacements.
Also dont forget to look for old Super Coupe V6s ,factory supercharged 3.8, then see what it takes to mod to newer 4.0/4.2 v6 if possible, would be interesting.
Also with proper exhaust manifolds a plain old small block Chevy will sit in very low and far back. My 86 got a 350 and I used rams horn turn back manifolds and simply cut a notch in ds cross member.
Sat the oil pan on an old gm points rotor and set it as far back as the hei would let me.
Now if I did another one Iam building a V8 Northstar inspired DIS bolt on conversion so as to go head to head with other setups.
Side note the steering column opening just look for same year exploder column in junk yard with manual trans or order from dealer for cheap.
My little Monza is getting a 283, 040 over, all forge rotating assembly, 2.02/1.60 double humps all done up and Ill give them mild port work so as to keep good flow numbers over hogging, then its getting a pair of Ebay Chinese turbos! I figure with the TCI TH350/Saturday night Special converter and 3:43 gears it should haul ass and after I get the brakes upgraded to Corvette spec and install the Air Ride it should turn and burn.
Northstar is good engine, if pistons dont show soon I still want one or the 4.0 Aurora engine, same thing just smaller, fun part is moding trans as the starters are under intake.
Oh yeah my little Monza is going to use LT1 intake!
Nice to see a Ranger make its debut just wish my itch for a first gen Ranger would leave last one nearly killed me!

dusterbd13
07-16-2010, 04:14 AM
looking forward to seeingt the wheels.

ever get the suspension mods done?

joemac
07-16-2010, 05:54 AM
Wheel pics, I think it makes the truck look like it's on stilts so lowering is in the near future. I haven't done any suspension mods yet but soon.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/truckwheelpics003-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/truckwheelpics006-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/truckwheelpics005-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/truckwheelpics004-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/truckwheelpics003-1.jpg

This is how far they sit in, I think they would be better about 1"-1 1/4" out. It will also let me install my front cap and should solve my rubbing problem.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/truckwheelpics007-1.jpg

The explorer wheels I picked up for a song;

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

srh3trinity
07-16-2010, 05:56 AM
Looks good. The Explorer wheel looks pretty cool too. That wouldn't have been on my radar.

joemac
07-29-2010, 10:45 AM
Got the thing lowered. The flip kit in the rear turned out to be a bear and was not fun. Really made me think twice about continuing the build it was so bad. I have about 10 hours in the flip kit alone. All four leaf spring bolts were rusted together. The rear two came out after about an hour each of working on them. the front two I managed to ring off about an inch in the sleeve with a 4 foot pipe/breaker bar. The right side I manage to pound out with a full size sledge. The left side I ended up having to cut the nut off and pull the spring, tried to get what was left of the bolt out on the bench but ended up drilling the rubber in the bushing out and getting a new bushing. I was worried that the bushing would be hell trying to get in but I put it in the freezer overnight and it slid right in. I just took a coil and a half off the front springs. It should equate to a 2" drop, the max you can get an alignment on with the ibeam suspension. Dropped beams are next as it sits an inch low in the ass of the truck. Pictures of the stance now below. I think it looks much better and am pleased now with the tire height even though it throws my speedo off by a couple mph. I'm still not crazy about the wheel design but it will do until I can get a nice set of billets in the future.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/truckbuildpics0021-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/truckbuildpics0041-1.jpg



I ended up selling my mustang axles for $100 but shipping ate up almost $30 so after the dust settled I made just under $70 on them. I still need to get some wheel spacers to correct the offset on the mustang wheels. I need to get my rear disc conversion done and then I'm not sure which way to go. Are there any other easy handling mods? Are 12" brakes front and rear going to make that big of a difference? Or should I now focus on more power?

joemac
07-29-2010, 11:43 AM
Wow you can see some body damage in the bed I didn't know was there. I hope to get a whole new box off a newer early 2000's truck to swap on.

dusterbd13
07-29-2010, 06:23 PM
next stop would be fresh poly bushings, bigger sway bar, and a more aggressive alignment.

you can also relocate/remove weight for better handling. putting the battery under the bed helps a lot.

and rust sucks. i know your pain on the bolts.

looks really good though. what did you think of the new handling with the lower center of gravity?

also, look into adding a leaf to the leaf pack to help stiffen it up. helps a lot.

joemac
07-29-2010, 07:10 PM
The lower cog let me get an extra 5mph or so around this sharp turn not far from my house. That's my measuring stick so to speak. What about a fiberglass leaf spring? Do you really think bigger sway bars will make that big of a difference? I think I can only go 1/8-1/4 bigger max unless I go to custom.

Do shocks make that big of a difference?

Z06killinSBF
07-29-2010, 07:25 PM
If you don't run spacers on the front, swapping to SN95 rotors will cut down that grease cup and allow you to run center caps. Looks good man. Do you know if the 2wd Explorers have bigger sway bars?

joemac
07-30-2010, 05:00 AM
Are you sure sn95 rotors will fit? They use a separate hub where the ranger uses a hub/rotor combined the lug studs are pressed into the rotor. I'm pretty sure they are a no go.

The 2wd explorer is different in the rear the front should work. There is a 1" bronco II rear bar that is tricky to find these days. the biggest aftermarket bar is 7/8". I have a 3/4" rear bar. I believe my front bar is 7/8" and I think there is a 1 1/8" aftermarket front bar.

joemac
05-12-2011, 04:56 PM
Lets see, been a while since I updated. I have gotten 1 1/2" wheel spacers to correct the offset of the GT wheels. I think the increase in track width helped stability. I finally got my rear disc swap done, don't have to worry about the drums locking up anymore. Also installed a trac lok at the same time. That improved driveability quite a bit. Wet weather is no longer an issue. The anti lock exciter ring gave me hell and ate up most of my day, but finally got it back on there. I also found that my sway bar was hitting the rear housing. Took my grinder and cut off wheel and lopped the ear it was hitting off. Also changed diff fluid. Picked up some cal vu mirrors in the last couple months. Next upgrade is front brakes. As you can see I work on junk in the dirt. So to recap I spent $125 on the mustang rear. I sold the axles for a profit of $70 and the housing for $25. I still have a 8.8 trac lok diff I should be able to get $100 for. I spent $65 on the used diff i put in. So I pretty much break even. I do have about $30 or so in brake and diff fluid.

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joemac
05-12-2011, 05:00 PM
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dusterbd13
05-12-2011, 06:32 PM
good to this ones still arond. progress looks golod

joemac
05-12-2011, 06:34 PM
yup, slowly but surely lol. no plans to get rid of it