New to pro-touring and to LS motors

[ledoux67]

I have went from prostreet to more of a pro-touring route in my 1967 camaro build. I am going to keep it a little of both but the more i read into pro-touring i start getting away from pro-street.

I have a 1967 camaro that was already set up for the 1/4 mile, full frame car, back half, and had a 383 SBC. When i bought the car i stripped it to nothing and started to rebuild. I took the SBC motor apart and found bent pushrods and a rounded off cam then i dug deeper and the bearings were shot. So now i got myself a 5.7 LS1 out of a 2003 Corvette and have a butt load of ideas but i am new to the LS motors.

I have been searching for the last month and doing research before i asked any questions so i did not get told to use the search button "LOL". I think i have read all the engine build installation threads etc. and then some more than once to make sure i did not ask stupid questions. I know the LS1tech.com site has alot of info but as i am offshore now and can not enter the site due because it blocks the site. The computers are pretty restricted out here so i have to make due with what i have.

Now that i have explained everything these are my questions if anyone wants to push me in the direction i need to go.

I am using my 241 casting heads and porting and installing 2.05 valves. The guy doing the port work is well known for excellent work so i feel confident that he will do a good job.
Question #1 I saw i can use the LS6 valve springs to get up to 570 lift, will these fit the 241 heads without any mods.
Question #2 If i go with a cam that has around the lift the springs will hold do i need to go with stronger pushrods.
Question #3 I am doing the carberated intake and LS ignition "I already have the Quick Fuel carb and Fuel cell etc." Can i port and polish the intake and port match the intake to the heads to Get extra HP? again i can not find much on the carberated LS motor builds.
Question #4 On the pulley system i will only be running the Alternator and the water pump. Is there a way i can run just that or will i have to make custom brackets?
Question #5 Is the truck coils better than the others as i read somewhere? If so i will be going to the junk yards when i get in from offshore. And if so what years do i need to look for.
Question #6 I know the cam sensor is on the top of the block, and the crank sensor is on the side of the block but what sensor is in the oil pan? I doubt i need it and can it be plugged.
Question #7 Where is the better place to run a manual oil pressure line at the top of the block or by the filter.
One more #8 I will be trying to squeeze out as much HP as i can out of this thing, will stock rod and main bolts be fine or do i need to go to ARP. The motor is on the stand now with the intake off and oil pan off. I am on a budget so if they should be fine i will not worry about it.

Any answers will help and as soon as i get in i will post this on LS1tech also.

Thanks

[CarlC]

#1.) At 0.570" there is approximately 0.010" before bind. Lingenfelter states that they do work with their GT@-3 (what the Camaro runs) but that's way to close to coil bind. PAC makes a resonably priced single spring that will support 0.600" easily and have quiet operation.

#2) You will need to confirm if the stock pushrods are the correct length with your cam. Usually a pushrod lengthchange is needed.

#6) Likely an oil level sender. Not needed.

#7) Either works fine. Use the one that makes your routing easiest.

#8) For a mild build they should be fine as long as they have not been removed. If they have then either replace them with OE or ARP. OE fasteners require a very specific tightening proceedure. Like any engine, you may want to consider spending a bit more now on fasteners and determine the actual condition of the engine.

[ledoux67]

Thanks for the reply, I will look into PAC for the springs.

[ledoux67]

Also what is the max lift the LS1 rockers can take. i thought i read somewhere it was 600.

[Ron.in.SoCal]

#5. I have read both sides of the Truck Coil argument w Dyno numbers to back each side up. What to believe? My personal opinion - based only on what I've read - is that the stock coils are just fine. If I we're to make a change to what I already have, I'd get the MSD coils which are in the $600 range. If I decide to do that, I might have a set of truck coils for sale....:idea:

Just my .02

[CarlC]

$600 for a few horsepower is, IMO, not a good HP/$ ratio. The factory coils are very good pieces. Heck, we used to only have ONE coil!

[Hugger67RSSS]

Just a tip for the carb method. DO NOT use the edelbrock box that comes as a kit. The 6 timing pills all have too much timing. The MSD 6010 also called the 6LS is by far better and can be tuned with a laptop.

Make sure you read a lot about carb'd cams for the LS motors. Off the shelf grinds usually have too wide of a LSA and are impossible to tune. I've read numerous threads about tuning an EFI cam and it just won't work.. I had a custom cam ground by Patrick G on LS1tech.

Good Luck!

[ledoux67]

#5. I have read both sides of the Truck Coil argument w Dyno numbers to back each side up. What to believe? My personal opinion - based only on what I've read - is that the stock coils are just fine. If I we're to make a change to what I already have, I'd get the MSD coils which are in the $600 range. If I decide to do that, I might have a set of truck coils for sale....:idea:

Just my .02


PM me with a price if you go that route.

[ledoux67]

Just a tip for the carb method. DO NOT use the edelbrock box that comes as a kit. The 6 timing pills all have too much timing. The MSD 6010 also called the 6LS is by far better and can be tuned with a laptop.

Make sure you read a lot about carb'd cams for the LS motors. Off the shelf grinds usually have too wide of a LSA and are impossible to tune. I've read numerous threads about tuning an EFI cam and it just won't work.. I had a custom cam ground by Patrick G on LS1tech.

Good Luck!

Thanks, i was going to do the MSD box but thanks for the heads up. I was going to call around to talk to shops on some custom grinds, i had figured they could get me a cam for my needs better than just buying one i thought would work.

[Hugger67RSSS]

I would if possible use this method,
http://guerragroup.com/camshaft_help.htm

Patrick G will spec the cam for you. The vendors weren't much help with me when I said I wanted to stay carb'd. They didn't want to say a lot because they haven't done as much testing