Bump steer kits and outer tie rod end taper

[Rhino]

Recently I've noticed a large number of bump steer kits that ask you to drill out the taper of a factory steering arm for installation. I realize that the factory taper is there for a reason, and there will likely be a little more play in a steering system if the taper was drilled out to use a straight bolt, however I'm not certain as to how noticeable the effects will be.

Up until now I've seen it as an absolute requirement to have the taper. This way you're guaranteed a tight fit.
Am I overestimating the steering slop that can be introduced with a kit such as this (http://www.competitionengineering.com/catalog/images/c2418_inst.pdf)?
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/2472418-1.jpg
Have you used a similar setup on a car? If so, what was your experience?

[MrQuick]

You will not require a taper due to the positive and direct connection to the heim.

The fastener goes through the pivot on the BS kit.

I don't believe you will have any slop if you have the proper fasteners.
Vince

[Rhino]

My main concern is between the steering arm and bolt, not the heim. The instructions call for a 5/8 bolt in a 5/8 hole. I'm sure there's not a lot of extra play, but it just seems that there could be increased clearance in comparison with stock. As long as the hole is a tight tolerance, and the fasteners are at the correct torque, there's not a lot to worry about.
Speaking of fasteners, I hadn't thought much about the advantages of the bolt through design. That is a nice benefit.

I think I'll give them a shot. Thanks Vince.

[silver69camaro]

I agree with Vince. That setup has been used for years on cars with huge amounts of scrub (read: dirt cars) with sucess.

[Bryce]

when I did the rack and pinion on my 65 mustang I drilled out my spindle for 1/2" bolts i used a 0.495" reamer. This is the actual shank size a 1/2" SHCS, allen bolt. It was a tight fit and no issues.

[Rhino]

That's exactly the approach I plan on taking. I'm not sure if the extra .005 makes that much of a difference, but it will make me feel better.

[JRouche]

I bought the baer tracker tie rod ends. With a tapered pin. Why? Well, not because a straight drilled and reamed hole wont work. I did it out of convenience. I like the pin thats supplied with the baer tracker setup also. Its a quality piece.

So thinking along those lines make sure to use the best bolt that you can get. If you have the ability to ream the hole within a few thous of the shank on the bolt Id do that. You will use a 5/8" bolt right?

Bolts are NOT all the same either. Get a good bolt. And I would wait till you get the bolts that you are gonna use to check the actual dimensions before you ream the hole. They can vary a lil with coatings.

Some bolts will have a rough coating, some smooth. For that application I would chuck the bolt up in the lathe and sand off most of the coating. Or just smooth it down and remove any tiny bumps of coating. Unless you are using some AN style bolts the coating can be a lil uneven. Id like a nice polished shank (NO metal removal) to measure from, then ream the steering arm hole from the measurement of the cleaned bolt. You should be able to get a really nice sliding fit that way. No wobble at all with the bolt and she is good to go.

Then its a matter of checking for bump steer. How are you doing that? Do you have the springs out? Or are you pulling the front end down with an anchor in the floor? No reason to go with bump steer correction unless you are actually measuring bump steer. I wouldnt just go with what worked for one guy. Gotta measure it.

I have air springs on so it was simple. Air it down and use the air pressure to move it through the entire range of travel while monitoring the toe number directly with my home made gauge. Write down all the changes with a certain ammount of shims in place on the tie rod. Then pull the tie rod off, adjust the shims and check again for toe changes with travel.

And yup, the best setting for me was a full stack of shims. With that I had zero toe change from ride height to full bump. A lil toe change for rebound from ride height but Ill live with that. JR

[Randy67]

You can always use these if you don't want to drill the taper out.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Adjustable-Tie-Rod-Adapter-Stud-to-Heim,3333.html

[Rhino]

I'm currently in the process of rebuilding the suspension. Currently there are no springs in it. As far as measurement is concerned, I've built a bump steer gauge to use.

Those adapter studs look nice. For some reason I wasn't able to find them on the speedway site in a previous search. It's a little late to use them now, but I'll have to keep them in mind later. :)