Mobile one engine oil after break-in.

[69X22]

What do you guys thing of running Mobile One after the engine is broken in? Don't the new vettes require this? The engine is a 400 hp Vortec 350.

[H2Ogbodies]

Aluminum engines don't require the same break-in procedure as does iron ones with respect to break in oil. Newer aluminum blocks can run synthetic from the start. IMO, I would put at least 1000 miles on your Vortec 350 first then switch to Mobil 1.

[kryptik]

Mobil 1 is a solid oil and would be quite adequate for your 350. I would wait approx. 1500-3000 miles before running synthetic (you want to wear everything in properly with a natural oil).

[Randy67]

GM did put Mobil 1 in the LT1/4 engines from the factory, so it isn't just an aluminum block thing. But I would wait till at least 1000 miles before putting it in. I did put synthetic in my rebuilt LT1 at 500 miles, though.

[CarlC]

Why does an aluminum engine require a different break in proceedure for oil vs. a cast iron?

[Lowend]

I've only heard a couple of logical arguments for NOT breaking in with synthetic. Keep in mind the machining, materials, and oils that we have now are VERY different than what was common 50 years ago. What ran true than doesn't necessarily now

1) The oil is too slick and the piston rings don't seat properly. I personally think this is untrue... Piston rings seat very quickly in modern engines

2) With a flat-tappet cam the synthetic oil allows the lifter to "skid" sideways on the cam face. This may be true; but certainly wouldn't apply to a roller motor.

3) Synthetic oil is expensive... you should really change engine oil after the first 30 minutes of run time, and again after a couple of hours of run time. There's no reason to spend $40 on oil that will only be in the engine for a few minutes.

[Vegas69]

I'm with you Carl, aluminum blocks have steel sleeves.

[Taman]

As many miles as I put on my TA between oil changes, synthetic oil is expensive. I change the oil once a month in the summer with Valvoline 10w30. I beat the hell out of my TA so I change the oil more.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/th_MOV00744-1.jpg (http://s741.photobucket.com/albums/xx58/taman1975/Trans%20Am/?action=view&current=MOV00744.flv)

[Pro Stock]

Break it in with petrolium oil for 500-1000 miles and then change to any major brand full synthetic, the first oil change gets rid of the original oil that has been contaminated during break in, synthetic oil will usually make about 10 more hp than petrolium oil and keeps it's lubricity for a longer period of time.

[DynoDon]

So many things have changed in the last decade or so that using Synthetic from the first fire up is no longer a problem. The biggest difference is the way rings are currently made and the way that machine shops SHOULD be doing the final hone. If done correctly there is No reason that Mobil 1 can't be used from the start. Porsche has done it for years, Corvettes have, AMG Mercedes ETC. Etc. I generally use Dino oil for the first fire up only because I throw it out after a couple of hours of running to get rid of any crap that shouldn't have been in there during assembly, but could happen, and Dino oil is cheaper. The it's synthetic all the way.

As for changing you oil a lot, you might want to read this as well;

Ford and Conoco did a study a few years back and found that changing oil too often is/can be harmful to your engine. Without getting into all the technical jargon, basically there were a couple of areas of concern. One had to do with the volatility of new oil and the content of the vapors that recirculated back into the the engine along with the fact that the oil additive package was not stable at that point. They found that the oil was just becoming its most effective at about 1000 miles. The other had to do with too much detergent content when the oil was new compared to the content when it had more miles on it. What they concluded was that oil was less effective at say 500 miles than it was at 5,000 miles!
Based on the finding Ford upped the recommended oil change intervals for standard driving from 5,000 miles to 7,500 miles and extreme duty from 3,000 miles to 5,000 miles. When you take into account that warranties these days hover around 100,000 miles and the manufacturer certainly doesn't have to pay for oil changes but Does have to pay for warranty repairs, I think there is some validity to this. Additionally Conoco would much rather sell you more oil, not less. The SAE papers are rather dry and drawn out but the above is the condensed version. GM, BMW and even Harley followed suit with longer intervals as well. Again they would rather sell you more oil if it were in their best interest.
Just something to think about.

There are some European cars that recommend 30,000 kilo's between oil change (that's 18,750 miles)!!!!!

One last thing, since I'm on an Oil roll here, People love to say you need to change the oil when it gets dark or Dirty;

From Valvoline;
"MYTH: Dark oil means it's time to change it. FACT: Not necessarily. Dark oil means that the oil is using the detergents added to the formulation to clean the inside of the engine. If an oil is dark, that doesn't mean that the additives are not working, it just means that the oil is doing its job to clean internally. "

And from the "Oil Expert";
The Dark Oil Myth
Dark oil does not indicate the need for an oil change. The way modern detergent motor oil works is that minute particles of soot are suspended in the oil. These minute particles pose no danger to your engine, but they cause the oil to darken. A non-detergent oil would stay clearer than a detergent oil because all the soot would be left on the internal engine parts and would create sludge. If you never changed your oil, eventually the oil would no longer be able to suspend any more particles in the oil and sludge would form. Fortunately, by following the manufacturer's recommended oil change interval, you are changing your oil long before the oil has become saturated. Remember, a good oil should get dirty as it does it's work cleaning out the engine. The dispersant should stop all the gunk from depositing in the oil sump."

[CarlC]

Have a link to the SAE paper?

[Vegas69]

That's all great info for your passenger car. The truth of the matter is these things don't get driven in the same manner. They go onto say that oil is not worn out when it's black, only almost wore out. :1st: If it's a crate engine, you should do what's recommended by the manufacturer. If it's a custom build, you better trust your builder AND his recommendation. My engine builder uses Brad Penn from day one. It's a Semi Synthetic blend and the cylinders are much truer and finished better than a factory engine. Synthetic oil is a horrible recommendation for a flat tappet engine. There is nothing wrong with Dino.

[86Cutlass383SR]

It is a bit dated but this may be the page he was reffering to. If not, it is a good read on oil anyways.

http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm

[CarlC]

Ahh, so the crux of the discussion finally comes to pass. What is more important, choosing the right type (syn vs. mineral) or the right viscosity?

Viscosity, hands down. The type and brand of oil will make no difference if it is not in the right place at the right time.

[DynoDon]

Have a link to the SAE paper?
I don't, it's been at least five years since I read it and I'll be damned if i can find a copy now

[DynoDon]

Synthetic oil is a horrible recommendation for a flat tappet engine. .
Really? I have gotten well over 100,000 miles on a flat tappet motor with Mobil 1 that would disagree with that statement. 460 Ford that towed the off road race truck. It lost the by pass hose on the back side of the Baker Grade towing the truck. By the time I noticed that the temp gauge was pegged we were almost to the top of the hill, so I continued to the top and figured we would coast down the other side, 17 miles should cool it down (didn't know the hose was off). We got to the rest stop at the bottom and the gauge was still pegged. Went to shut it off and it was so hot it just kept running, the plugs were acting like glow plugs! Even pulled the coil wire. We took the coolers and started pouring water in and on the radiator but it would just turn to steam. After about 20 minutes of this we finally got it to shut off. It took 45 minutes before it would take any water without blowing it back out. We refitted the little hose and it was 2 hours before we could totally fill the radiator. We then fired it up and drove back to Orange County. The motor ran perfect and there were no ill effects that we could determine. We changed the oil and it didn't look any different than a normal oil change interval. Used it for a few more races (including Mexico) and only sold it because an old Ford Factory mechanic told me that if it got that hot, the head bolts would probably snap off if we tried to pull them. At that point it had 238,000 miles so I traded it in on a new van.
We also used it in our 1984 Corvette SCCA Road Race car back in 1985 with no ill effects and that was a flat tappet cam, and we ran 12 hour and 24 hour races with it.
I have seen no evidence of problems in a flat tappet motor with Mobil 1 15/50 from my experiences and I continue to run it in all my cars, well not the newer daily drivers, i don't keep them long enough to justify the cost

[Vegas69]

Does the 15/50 have the Zinc above 1000 PPM?

[DynoDon]

Does the 15/50 have the Zinc above 1000 PPM?
Yes it does. Only the lighter weights are subjected to the API standard that requires the lower levels of Zinc. IIRC it is 1400 ppm for the 15/50