stripped

[Ishmael]

I swear my car is cursed. Every time I think I'm taking a step forward something goes wrong. I literally put my calipers on for the 4th or 5th time. I now have the right rotors, the left side went on but I thought I felt the banjo bolt start spinning before it got 15ftlbs. I put the right side on and, you guessed it, totally spun before it hit 15ftlbs. As I took it out the shavings started. I thought I was going to snap. I tried the bolt without the line and it can go in further. Is there a longer banjo bolt that would work in my C5 calipers or do I have to replace the caliper?
Seriously, not one thing, not even simple things like brackets have worked right the first time or have been easy to make work. It wasn't like this anyother time the engine has been out and hasn't been like this on any other car. I would sell it if I hadn't had it since I was 15 and would feel like I gave up. I don't want it to be someone's "basket case" when it is almost all the way back together. At this point it should be easy. If it weren't for all the stupid crap going wrong with every single part going on I would be driving it by now.

[JRouche]

Well Scott, yer story sounds like my entire build. I will be on a run, everything is bolting up, everything fits, then WHAM. Something pops up and I need to take two steps back for the one Im trying to do.

And because EVERYTHING on my car is not stock everything causes problems with the other steps.

Make sure you have the correct banjo bolts (22163795) and washers (10139097).

Id buy some new ones and go from there. JR




I swear my car is cursed. Every time I think I'm taking a step forward something goes wrong. I literally put my calipers on for the 4th or 5th time. I now have the right rotors, the left side went on but I thought I felt the banjo bolt start spinning before it got 15ftlbs. I put the right side on and, you guessed it, totally spun before it hit 15ftlbs. As I took it out the shavings started. I thought I was going to snap. I tried the bolt without the line and it can go in further. Is there a longer banjo bolt that would work in my C5 calipers or do I have to replace the caliper?
Seriously, not one thing, not even simple things like brackets have worked right the first time or have been easy to make work. It wasn't like this anyother time the engine has been out and hasn't been like this on any other car. I would sell it if I hadn't had it since I was 15 and would feel like I gave up. I don't want it to be someone's "basket case" when it is almost all the way back together. At this point it should be easy. If it weren't for all the stupid crap going wrong with every single part going on I would be driving it by now.

[Ishmael]

Thanks JR. I'll check to see if I have the right bolts but judging from the metal that came out I think I've crossed that bridge. The bolt went in fine but spun when tightened. Do you think a longer bolt might work or am I looking for a new caliper?

[John Wright]

Bolt may have been too short to begin with.....(is the flex line that you used the stock thickness at the connection to allow for the correct thread engagement?)....BTW, I think the torque for the banjo bolt on a C5 caliper is around 30ft#s.....hopefully someone will chime in and correct me if I'm wrong.

[Ishmael]

I was using the directions and flex line sent to me by Touring Specialties. The directions said 15 to 20 lbs. There was tinsel coming out and a coil around the bolt. It was ugly.

[Ishmael]

I think I found the problem. My parts guy looked up what was called for on the C5. It is on the right. I think its an M10 by 1.5. JR, he couldn't use your numbers but thanks for trying. The one that came with the hoses are on the left. Can anybody else with c5's tell me which one is right? I'm going to see if the new one will go in but it may need two washers to get it to work with the hoses. Is that safe? John, I'm not sure if the hose end is the stock thickness but if the bolt on the right is correct then the hose end isn't as thick. If I can't use more than one washer per side of the end then I don't know what to do for hoses and I'll be ticked that they aren't right but that's better than being ticked at myself.

[John Wright]

IIRC, I used two copper washers, one on each side of the banjo fitting on my factory C5 stuff ....under head of bolt, and one between the banjo bolt and the caliper.

[6'9"Witha69]

Yes, the hose end should be sandwiched by 2 copper washers, this is by design and meant to create a seal.

[Ishmael]

No, I mean two together and one on the other side. Notice the difference in the picture of ... doh! I talked about two bolts in a picture and didn't attach a picture. Sorry guys, let's try again. The bolt on the left is what was sent from Touring Classics with the braided lines. The one on the right is what the parts guy gave me for a c5 corvette. Its a 10mmx 1.5. Can anybody else with c5's tell me which one is right?
What I was going to ask about is, since the one that I'm told is correct is longer through the space where the fitting goes, if I can get away with using two washers on one side (and obviously one on the other) to make the fitting fit correctly?

[68firebird]

I'm gonna suggest heading to kore3.com and ask him this question, I think it's safe to say tobin would definitely have the answer for you since that's their specialty. I just bought braided stainless line from them and it came with the correct banjo bolts for my ls1 brakes, I guess the c5 and ls1 calipers use the same bolts, they fit perfectly.

[modular93fox]

putting 2 washers together = fail.... ive seen people double "gasket" a oil drain plug and that leaks.

[Ishmael]

Ok so I get goodridge bolt that will fit the stopflex hose. Does anybody know if the right size banjo bolt is a 10mm x 1.25 or 1.5? I've searched around and seen both. And if the caliper has been stripped should I bother with a steeper grade thread even if it is the correct one or should I bite the bullet and get a new caliper? If the hole is no longer good then trying to figure out the right bolt is useless.

[gort69]

If this was a bolt that holds on your glove box door ....

Get a new caliper.

[a67]

Just heli-coil the caliper to mate with the proper bolt thread. Measure the thread on the original bolt for the proper size. Will be either M10 x 1.0 or M10 x 1.25.

Bob.

[John Wright]

Just heli-coil the caliper to mate with the proper bolt thread. Measure the thread on the original bolt for the proper size. Will be either M10 x 1.0 or M10 x 1.25.

Bob.
I was thinking heli-coil too...just didn't know what to suggest for thread sealer. I suppose lock-tite has a product that the fluid won't attack.

well...do the heli-coil threads even matter if they are sealed or not?...the copper washers do the sealing

[a67]

I was thinking heli-coil too...just didn't know what to suggest for thread sealer. I suppose lock-tite has a product that the fluid won't attack.

well...do the heli-coil threads even matter if they are sealed or not?...the copper washers do the sealing

No sealer required. The passage is sealed against the face of the caliper and banjo bolt.

Bob.

[Apogee]

Scott, you have a PM. C4/C5/C6 Corvette calipers all use M10x1.0 banjo bolts, so other thread pitches should not even be part of this discussion.

FWIW, Dorman sells a 27.5mm long M10x1.0 banjo bolt (Dorman #13912) that can reach past a few bad threads in some cases, but a thread insert is the only real way to fix the caliper. If it's a new caliper, then that would probably be worth it...if it's used or beat up, it may not be worth the time and/or money, but that's something you'll need to determine for yourself.

Tobin
KORE3

[Ishmael]

Thank you gentlemen. I now have some options. Now, does anyone have a lucky rabbit's foot or a horse shoe I could purchase?

[a67]

Thank you gentlemen. I now have some options. Now, does anyone have a lucky rabbit's foot or a horse shoe I could purchase?

He-heh, if you figure out what makes us luckier when working on a vehicle, PLEASE, let me know. I've found that if it isn't one thing, it's another. And when things go smoothly, watch out, there is something waiting in the wings.

Just need to keep plodding forward... BTDT, and still doing it... I just keep thinking of when it comes time to be behind the wheel. Yes!

Bob.

[ErikLS2]

If you are going to repair those threads I would only attempt it with something called a Timesert. It's like a heli-coil but is basically a tube with threads on the outside and inside, available in different depths and locks itself into place. It's countersunk into the housing so as long as the copper sealing gasket is large enough in diameter it should seal. I would do some serious test driving with care before I trusted that type of repair though. Good luck.

[gort69]

I don't like the idea of a thread repair insert there. Any that I've seen require that you drill & tap the current threads significantly oversize in order to thread the insert in. The C5 caliper - as I recall - has a shallow machined counterbore against which the crush washer seals. By drilling the hole larger, you'll lose most if not all of that machined sealing surface.

One of the nice things about using the C5 brakes is that they're affordable and plentiful. I wouldn't even waste my time messing with it considering how important a good seal is there.

[Ishmael]

I'm going to take it to an automotive machine shop where I know the guy is into sports cars. I'll see what he thinks about cleaning it up to see if a 1.5 can go in. If not, I'll spring for a new caliper - maybe two.