My 64 Corvette Pro Tour build, Long view of how car eveolved into what it is today.

[Poorhousenext]

I would like to share my 64 Corvette Coupe build with members here. Hope you bear with me while I go over how build. I have waited until car was painted before posting about it's details and how it has evolved via Project Scope Creep. I wanted to make sure it could be finished and not draged out of a couple more years.

My story is not short. It will require a few post to try an explain it.

Purcased car in Dec 2007. Started gathering parts for it in Jan 2008. By June of 2008 I had all the major parts in hand to start build. Car was a barn find that had gone through 2 other owners prior to my buying it. It was a perfect car to turn into a Pro Tour.

Frame had rusted completely through in about 4 places. There was also rust in the windshield frame, sill plates and door lock pillars that need to be repaired. Only fiberglass body parts that were usable were the doors and top panel due to car having been raced prior to be stored in barn.

First thing I bought was aftermarket frame/chassis with C4/C5 Corvette Suspension from Street Shop Inc. in Athens, Alabama. Frame rail are rectangular hydro formed tubing rather than welded round tube type used by some who are doing Corvette Restomod builds. Had chassis equipped with Bare Brakes rotors and calipers rather than stock Vette ones. Rear end is Dana 44 with 3.54 gearing. Sort of in between gearing compromise for touring aspect of car.

I wanted to use a latest GM LS design engine and decided on LS3 480 HP crate engine. Would have been nice to have gone with LS7 but felt the extra dollars good be put to better use elsewhere. Original plan was to use a 4L65 A4 trans built to handle 600 HP and upgraded with ISS to support LS3 ECM rather than a manual, as both my knees need replacing. Even the new clutches with hydraulics that take lot less effort didn't help when caught in traffic.

Two weeks ago I made the decision to not to go with a 4L65 but go with a 4L80E based transmission instead. Two main reasons for that. 1. While 4L80E adds more weight to car, it is by far stronger. Not only should it take track use better, it will allow me to upgrade my HP & TQ later on should I decide too. 2. Better gear splits modifications for competion use offered. There is a third reason for it also, but can't talked about it at this time. That reason may make the car competive with a manual car when auto crossed or on a road track. Time will tell on that.

Torque converter, like the 4L80E based trans is overkill for amount of HP engine puts out. It's a multi disc unit design made by Circle D Specializes that is designed for 1000-1100 HP 4L80E based drag cars. Major difference is it only stalled to flash to 2400-2500 RPM, so it's purpose is to limit slippage to same are lees than a manual trans clutch when up shifting and take pounding when down shifting and getting in and out of throttle. It's not designed to give awesome 60 ft times. All the converter people I talked with understand what works for drag racing, but none were sure what it would happen if you beat on converter up shifting and downshifting for say 1 hour on a road course. All they agreed on was keep the trans fluid as cool as possible and if possible less than 180 degrees. Time will tell if I made the right decision.

Next I had to find a shop to assemble and do the bodywork car needed. Shop I had planned to use had problems getting customer's car delivered. Found a shop that agreed to take on job, B Rod or Custom located in Knoxville, TN. They believed in having a plan to work too. They also had their vision for Project which didn't match my vision. I was looking at just using aftermarket 1.0" stretched rear quarter panels so I could run a wider tire on rear.

They, being creative had a vision of making the car distinctive by putting wheels on back with minimum of 4.0 inches of exposed wheel hoop. Problem with their vision is Vettes suspension is designed with positive offset. Using current aftermarket stretched quarters panels allow for using the wider tire size they wanted car to have, but not more wheel hoop than stock wheels.

Here is 1st rendering of what they thought would work that included one of the two requirements for build, adding a third taillight on each side and improving the look of lower front fender dummy vents bland looks.

Shop thought they could just move the frame rails in and shorten the suspension. You can do that, but you ruin the rear suspension geometry if you shorten it. You can more the rails in and tub the body so you can use wider tires and rims, but that want get you more exposed wheel hoop. Just still means using late model C6 style positive wheels is required.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/64renderingSmall1-1.jpg

There also was a problem with wheel design. Shop like old school style wheels, while I had no problem with the late model Corvette style wheels. When I saw the rendering I said no to those wheels and they said no to my choice. They asked me to see if I couldn't find a wheel that was maybe an updated old school wheel style that was acceptable to us both. They still wanted a wheel that looked good with minimum of 4.0 inches of exposed wheel hoop.

To try and get me to buy into their vision they installed a set of wheels off a Camaro that had the tire size they wanted to use and had 4.0" of wheel hoop. They had came in on a customers, and available to use even if they did look like crap. They were install under 1.0 aftermarket quarter panels I had already purchased for build. You can see that in order to get them to fit inside the quarters, shop had to adjust the suspension to tilt them in toward frame. Standing up straight they stuck out about 3/4 of and inch and were 2.0 inches away from frame rails. In the second picture you can see we had been trying to work on improving the front lower fender dummy vent look and make it functional.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P4280211-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P7141236-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PB180058-1.jpg

In the meantime, I started searching for a wheel that was acceptable to both me and them. It's unreal how many wheel companies there are. I just happen to run across a company name Schott Wheels. They have a very distinctive cover loc wheel style, and one of their models intrigued me. It was their Modsport K.O. wheel with spinner. Found it was based of both the old Halibrand Kidney Bean style of mid 40s to late 50s and their Sprint style introduced in the early 60's. Shop loved the look for car. What happen next changed the entire direction of build. It's what made me decide car had become a Pro Tour one.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/FW_1639_500-1.gif

Shop said they would order the wheels with correct back spacing for car. I assumed that meant wheels and tires would fit under the 1.0" aftermarket stretched quarter panels I had already purached. Wrong, shop order the wheels with backsacing that got them their 4.0" of exposed wheel hoop for their vision of car. Doing that meant the front fenders would have to stretched at least 1.5 inches to maintain any kind of front to rear body proportions. This post is getting a little too long so I'll end it for now. Then I'll so you what problems that caused and how using High Tech Redneck Engineering shop overcame them.

There 4.0" of exposed wheel hoop. Not what I was expecting. I was expecting 2.0" at most.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P92912961-1.jpg

[SimplyKC]

Post more!

[MonzaRacer]

OK so who is writing the the check? And you didnt want 4 in of outside hoop?
Hmm sounds like that shop needs less work if they wont listen to customer.

[Poorhousenext]

OK so who is writing the the check? And you didnt want 4 in of outside hoop?
Hmm sounds like that shop needs less work if they wont listen to customer.

I'm the one writing the check. It wasn't that I didn't like the 4 inches of outside hoop, I was aware of what problems trying to do it entailed. What I didn't want was how it changed body line on most cars I'd seen it tried on.

Other problem was a stock midyear corvette with stock tires has a lot of exposed tire on rear as it is. Moving wheel out wards makes it even worst and causes you to have the same problem on front side of wheel well.

I showed them pictures of problems it caused and how some had tried to deal with it.

Most people just leave it as is on front and rear. Just allows for a lot of trash to be slung on side of car from the tires.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/15widerearcompare2stock-1.jpg

Some have copied approach. Rear isn't too bad but does bubble the back end of car. What they did on front does not add to look of car at all.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/18viewofrearinprimershowingfront1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/17viewofrearinprimerfromangleMedium-1.jpg

Shop's owner said he had a plan that that would provide more coverage on rear than what stock body has, and on front side he would at least match the coverage.

Problem was, nothing like their plan had been tried and it meant having to stretch the front fenders to keep body lines in proportion.

In the mean time we had done a little more research on a functional front vent to replace the stock lower front fender dummy vent. They did a rendering of what they thought they had the expertise to do. Part of that included trying to duplicate the look of a 2008 C06 front vent on lower front fenders. You can't make a mold that will fit in space we had to work with off C6 fendeer, plus midyear inner fenders are not spaced the same from side to side.

Here is third rendering they did of project.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/64vettefrt3Small-1.jpg

Below is the 4th and final rendering of his vision of car of what he thought shop could make the 64 into. This time you can see we decided the vent styling off a 2008 Z06 would make for a better look and it would provide more coverage of the amount of exposed tire that was going to be caused by moving the front wheels out wards too, in order to maintain front to rear fender balance.

Ambitious! I knew they might be able to do pull the back of quarters out to cover more of the exposed tire, but could they do it without making the width of the rear end grow.

The front side of quarter I had no hope for.

The vents would require a talented body man that could take the drawing and reproduce the vent on both sides of car. Each hand made.

You can see the rendering still didn't improve the amount of exposed tire on rear side of it.

4th and final rendering the car was to be built to.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/464widevettelastrendering-1.jpg

[94SNGLTURBO]

looks great. i like the wheels

[Bjkadron]

Looks Great!

I Do say that I am not really impressed with the shops attitude. I don't think that they should force their ideas on you when they are supposed to be working for you.

Post more soon!

Also those scoops don't look too hard to make.. What do you want them to do? Just vent air? I could probably make you a set.. I assume you would want them out of Fiberglass so they could be molded in? PM me if you are interested.

[SimplyKC]

I'm confused. The car is out of paint?

Go ahead and put it out there. No need to draw it out for drama's sake.

[Poorhousenext]

Looks Great!

I Do say that I am not really impressed with the shops attitude. I don't think that they should force their ideas on you when they are supposed to be working for you.

Post more soon!

Also those scoops don't look too hard to make.. What do you want them to do? Just vent air? I could probably make you a set.. I assume you would want them out of Fiberglass so they could be molded in? PM me if you are interested.

Benjamin,

Owner and Son are creative builders. I had a hint of this when we first spoke. Most of their customers that bring a car to them to build want a build that is a little unique. Like me they have ideas, some for the better some for the worst. Part of any builder job is to keep the customer from making mistakes and help them build something that just different enough to make the owner proud.

I'm not saying what shop did was right. I do understand why they did it. What they saw me doing was just doing a repeat of same old, same old build others across the country had already done. For a little more money they wanted to build me a one off Vette that would be the next evolution in looks by making car have a more modern look while till trying to maintain look of original body lines from a distance.

In other words, make you average non Corvette purist look at car, no something has been changed, yet wonder what. There are three dead give aways that car does not have a stock body when viewed from a distance. The rocker panels and lower front fender vents from a side view, and the third tail light from rear view. That is only if your familiar with midyear Corvettes.

My problem is most people don't even notice the real changes done to improve just use of wider tires on these cars.

Here are a couple of picture of what GM did just to try and make these car completive on track back in 1963. My car has a wider tract than GM's racer. That is the major handling change that at least to me makes my car a Pro Touring candidate.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/vemp_0911_02_z12_hours_of_sebringgr-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/vemp_0911_12_z12_hours_of_sebringwh-1.jpg


I do appreciate you offer to make vents, but the vents have already been finished. In my opening statement I stated I had waited until car had been painted before posting about it and why I did so.

[Poorhousenext]

I'm confused. The car is out of paint?

Go ahead and put it out there. No need to draw it out for drama's sake.

Car is out of paint as stated in my first post.

I'm not doing this for drama's sake.

You saw the rendering of what car is suppose to look like. Just in case someone wants to try and do a similar build, are take my build to the next level, show you and others what went into doing it, and how it was done using Redneck Low Tech means. :idea:

[dipren443]

So are you going to post updated pics?

[Poorhousenext]

So are you going to post updated pics?

Yes!

Just takes time to try in get things in order. Time frame from start till car in primer awaitng paintings is 11/15/09 to 03/21/10. I have no plans to show car painted. I prefer to wait until car is finished for that. I've already discovered paint is hard to shoot. It will take someone who knows lighting with better equipment than me to try and get good shots of it.

Week one.
Final go look had been nailed down.

Next comes the Sawsall, and ues of High Tech Redneck wooded paint stirrers, masking tape, screws, and a piece of a 4"X4" wood post under rear of qtr panel bonding strip to push out rear of qtr panel. Goal is to get about same amount of tire exposed, as that exposed on a stock body and tire car, yet maintain the stock qtr's look on rear. The rear of qtr has not had any cuts made to allow it to curve back in and mate up with rear valance panel.

As you see in from pictures, shop started a Coke bottle curve look shown in the rendering, but with change that make the transition between the rear qtr panel and door even less dramatic and more flowing than that in rendering by extending point out to middle of door's conture to match it back up with that of stock body. In rendering it matched up just in front of door handle.

You should be able to see how much that change reduced the amount of exposed tire and dramatic drop of body line in pictures below. Odds are when he gets through contouring fender to fit tire, even less of tire will show.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PB180057-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PB180055-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/464widevettelastrendering2-1.jpg

Picture of rear showing amount of tire exposed and showing how much of exposed tire we were able to cover yet still maintain look of stock body qtr panel. Since there are no cuts made yet to allow the rear of qrt panel to curve back in to rear vaalance/tailight panel. Once he starts contouring rear qtr, he hopes to be able to get a little more of exposed tire covered up to match look of stock tire and qtr panel car. He is trying hard not to have it take on a wide rearend bubble look.

Rear bumpers will have to be cut and sectioned an are pie cut to fit.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PB180059-1.jpg

As you can see the rear tire and wheel are still canted in wards. Shop will adjust suspension to stand tire straight up and stretch the outer lip of wheel well out wards. The paint stir stick used in increments of 1, 2 or 3 will make the quarter's lip curve. Then cuts will be made in the quarter to let lower part that attches to lip be stretched out and mated up with it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PB180058-1.jpg

[Poorhousenext]

Here shop start to play with vent trim/bling by using ones made from styrofoam.

How the rear of the quarter panel's wheel well opening was pulled out to give more exposed tire coverage. Had to cut out the bumper closure to get it to stretch out at front of quarter and bend back into it stock location at rear taillight panel so rear end would not take on a bubble look.

There of pictures of one of the body men was working on door jam that needed to be changed due to moving the door skin outward along with the rear qtr panel to get tire coverage on forward end of qtr panel.

Door Jam.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PC030004-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PC030005-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PC030003-1.jpg

Now the big if on project has been, can we stretch the rear quarter panel to provide better tire coverage on side, without causing a bubble effect to look of rear end. I hope we have achieved that goal.

It took about 30 mins to do what you see, with a little coaching of panel and body man to get the darn thing where I wanted it. In fact we got the front and rear of wheel well opening within 1/8 of each other so we have the same tire coverage on front and rear of wheel well opening. Oddly enough that extra 1/8 of and inch outwards is on the rear side.

View of Right Rear quarter panel from rear. Note that Tire & Wheel are canted inwards to get tire inside the 1.0" GTS stretched 1/4, so there would be even more tire exposed without that. Note also were the end point of 1/4 is at on rear tire.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PC030017-1.jpg
Pre-stretched try by using 3" x 4 " block of wood.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PB270089-1.jpg

As you can see we were able to stretch the 1/4 to get same tire coverage on front and rear of wheel well opening.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PC030022-1.jpg

Front side of wheel well to compare tire exposure.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PB270083-1.jpg

How we got there.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PC030010-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PC030011-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PC030012-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PC030013-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PC030014-1.jpg

Vent will be using C1 Spears for bling and has been reshaped to remove some of it's bludge.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PC030018-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PC030019-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PC030020-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PC030021-1.jpg

[Poorhousenext]

Here are some pictures of door and start of work on other side.

The Left hand door has been glassed back up inside and out and ready for finish work.

Inside of door

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PC110071-1.jpg

Rear view of door. You may be able to see how much lower portion of door skin was moved outwards.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PC110067-1.jpg

Lower view of door.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PC110070-1.jpg

Door lock pillar/sill has been glassed back in and ready to be finished.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PC1100571-1.jpg

View of door lock pillar looking forwards.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PC110032-1.jpg

This picture of stretched rear 1/4 panel bonding panel may give you an idea of how much the back of the rear 1/4 panel was stretched outwards.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PC110033-1.jpg

While I was there, Allstate (nickname) made cuts on right had door to stretch it. Not pretty looking.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PC110036-1.jpg

Picture looking down into inside of door after cutting to give you and idea how far out door skin is being moved.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PC110064-1.jpg

Cuts filled in so door skin can be glassed over, Allstate grinding filler down in preparation for glassing outer skin.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PC110066-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PC110075-1.jpg

Had them do one last test clearance test of wheel and tire to make sure it would not hit under full compression. As you can see from pictures, no worries there as coil over has been removed to get and idea of max possible wheel travel and we still have 1.5" of clearance between tire and Frame/Body and 1/2" between 1/4 panel. No problem going to 11.0" rims and 315 tire...LOL

Max Down travel.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PC110043-1.jpg

Max up outside.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PC110045-1.jpg

Max up inside. You can see control arm is hitting swaybar.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PC110046-1.jpg

By the way, if you go back and look at my prior post showing stretching rear 1/4, you will see the body line is flat between front and rear of wheel well opening. Rendering shows this area to have same curvature as front fender in this area. Allstate didn't let me down.

The front and rear have same contour now achieving the Coke bottle look, or as cars designer says, Sophia Loren look. Being a real Southern Redneck, I told him it was Dolly Parton look as Dolly had here bust enlarged like car's fenders, while Sophia's was aw natural.:laughing:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PC110060-1.jpg

[Poorhousenext]

Left rear qtr panel bonded on, right door completed, right qtr panel stretched and ready to bond on, rear tail light panel modified for adding third taillight to each side, and right front fender's vent duct made, front fender stretched and cut out to install it.[/B]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PC240090-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PC240094-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PC240095-1.jpg

Verified Body line on left & right side with laser level. First time with frame leveled wheels off the ground and below shot with car back on wheels and level a Bubble off like car's owner....because he forgot to have lights turned off when car was on jack stands....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PC240088-1.jpg

Misc shots of work.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PC1700792-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PC1700782-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PC170082-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PC1700812-1.jpg

How to handle Rocker Molding was decided. Will try and make it look like the rocker panel in Rendering. Making the Rocker Panel is a not a big deal, but we will have to modify the bottom of Rear Qtrs, Doors and Front Fender to smooth the transition between them and Rocker Panels. It's a Restomod so might as well update that area to look more modern. Makes it easy to cover with Clearstatic too.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/364corvettefrtnew21-1.jpg

[Poorhousenext]

Getting a little closer. Has to be TUFF too, as it has to be able to take the heat as you can see from first picture.

You will be able to see what curing does to the glass and primer in some of the pictures, since as it cures it moves . By curing all the fresh glassed areas, it could just keep paint from moving first time car is exposed to sun's heat on a nice hot day.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P1160153-1.jpg

The body from doors back is ready to be blocked and sanded and any inconsistencies in body work from side to side corrected.

Hope the below pictures show what shop has accomplished on what we hope is better front and rear wheel well coverage of wide tires not seen using current aftermarket rear quarter panels.

This was the primary goal of trying to reinvent them with a REV 2 revision of wide tire rear quarter panel, along with trying to maintain basic flow of stock C2 body between door and quarter panel too.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P1160134-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P1160135-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P1160136-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P1160137-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P1160138-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P1160139-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P1160140-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P1160141-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P1160142-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P1160143-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P1160144-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P1160145-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P1160146-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P1160147-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P1160148-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P1160149-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P1160151-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P1160152-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P1160154-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P1160155-1.jpg

[Poorhousenext]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P2260217-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P2260223-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P2260224-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P2260225-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/364corvettefrtnew21-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P2260222-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P2260220-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P2260233-1.jpg

Here are some pictures of Bumpers prior to plating. Have to say GM seemed to have used +/-1/4" tolerance on bumper's mounting brackets. I had access to 2 sets of stock rears, and one set of GM licensed repos. No two mounting brackets were in same mounting plane. There would be two or more 1/8" in or out of where mounting surface should be. Problem is trying to deal with ones that were out past the top edge of bumper. You can shim the ones that are in too far, but you either have to live with bumper standing off body to far, are cut them and weld them back in so bumpers fits body correctly.

Probably not a problem with NCRS restorations, but for me they made car look bad, so we used the repo ones and cut the brackets and welded them so bumpers mounted to body as designed, without the +/- 1/4" tolerance swings. Bumpers had to be re-chromed anyway, because we had to make pie cuts in them fit.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P3050236-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P3050237-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P3120258-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P3120262-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P3120263-1.jpg

[Poorhousenext]

I got lucky, are maybe not lucky and was able to pick up a set of C6 Z06 3.0" Billy Boat Fusion NPP mufflers.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P2270091-1.jpg

Using mechanic's wire, they were hung in place to see if they would fit between bumpers and in space where spare tire tub used to reside.

Only tag I had laying around to use to make sure it would clear.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/64withBBexhaust1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/64withBBexhaust2-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/64withBBexhaust3-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/64withBBexhaust4-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P3120255-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P3120245-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P3120249-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P3120251-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P3120277-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P3120278-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P3120280-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P3120286-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P3120284-1.jpg

[Poorhousenext]

These are the last pictures you'll have to look at. These were taken just prior to car being taken to show as display of shops work.

Last 3 were taken at show as bumpers didn't make it back from chromer's until next morning of show.

I think car looks better than the rendering it was built to.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/DSCN6186-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/DSCN6187-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/DSCN6188-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/DSCN6189-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/DSCN6190-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/DSCN6191-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/DSCN6192-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/DSCN6193-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/DSCN6194-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/DSCN6195-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/DSCN6196-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/DSCN6197-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/DSCN6198-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/DSCN6199-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/DSCN6200-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/DSCN6201-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/DSCN6202-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/DSCN6205-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/DSCN6206-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/DSCN6208-1.jpg

[bonecrrusher]

I swear I saw the chassis/engine build on Ls1tech...

your SN looks familiar... LS7/6l80e & a G8 GT shifter??

[Bjkadron]

Benjamin,

Owner and Son are creative builders. I had a hint of this when we first spoke. Most of their customers that bring a car to them to build want a build that is a little unique. Like me they have ideas, some for the better some for the worst. Part of any builder job is to keep the customer from making mistakes and help them build something that just different enough to make the owner proud.

I'm not saying what shop did was right. I do understand why they did it. What they saw me doing was just doing a repeat of same old, same old build others across the country had already done. For a little more money they wanted to build me a one off Vette that would be the next evolution in looks by making car have a more modern look while till trying to maintain look of original body lines from a distance.

In other words, make you average non Corvette purist look at car, no something has been changed, yet wonder what. There are three dead give aways that car does not have a stock body when viewed from a distance. The rocker panels and lower front fender vents from a side view, and the third tail light from rear view. That is only if your familiar with midyear Corvettes.

My problem is most people don't even notice the real changes done to improve just use of wider tires on these cars.

Here are a couple of picture of what GM did just to try and make these car completive on track back in 1963. My car has a wider tract than GM's racer. That is the major handling change that at least to me makes my car a Pro Touring candidate.

I do appreciate you offer to make vents, but the vents have already been finished. In my opening statement I stated I had waited until car had been painted before posting about it and why I did so.

I understand WHY they did it. I just don't agree with HOW they did.
Yes, I forgot you said that when I offered.

Build looks great! They do nice work! I didn't know there was anyone around here. Well except Bobby Alloway.

[Poorhousenext]

I swear I saw the chassis/engine build on Ls1tech...

your SN looks familiar... LS7/6l80e & a G8 GT shifter??

This is a different chassis build.

The one you mentioned is mine. Started in 11/07, been painted over a year and a half ago. Over a year before they painted it.

The shop doing the work finally hung the doors last week. It took a year and half to install carpet, stock wire harnesses, and dash is almost finished. They also laid the steering coloum in car lst week too. As soon as they get the body reassembled, car will be moved to another shop to be finished up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/11981-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/11961-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P50603601-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/PA1513131-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P5060364-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/P5240061-1.jpg

[bonecrrusher]

Oh snap..... at least I had your SN pegged to the right project, lol.

Both cars look excellent!

[Bjkadron]

So what is the completion date on this project?

[Poorhousenext]

Oh snap..... at least I had your SN pegged to the right project, lol.

Both cars look excellent!

I can't believe anyone could remember it, much less tie me too it...LOL Nothing posted to it for a long time.


So what is the completion date on this project?

I'm hoping shop will have completed the body assembly by 1st of July. I'm not counting on it. They work on it when they feel like it.

After that have to get AC, radiator & heater hoses, exhaust etc done. Would like to have it finished by 1st of September. What will be left to do will be a duplicate of same things as on the 64 except for interior work. That should help one are the other in getting done faster.

[bonecrrusher]

Haha... it happens - I remember the uniqueness of the 6l80e swap, and the custom frame, that and the G8 GT shifter... which well, I stare at daily since I picked up my 08 GT a month ago!

[Poorhousenext]

Been a while since I posted update. Have had a couple of setbacks to finishing up project. Had the body back off the frame 3 times. While it was off last time decided to clean and detail chassis some while waiting.

Front of engine, no chrome as we are trying subdued look, no engine compartment flash.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/P7060094-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/P7060097-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/P7060100-1.jpg


Also spend a few hours in Auto parts distribution warehouse looking for formed heater and radiator hoses that would help with stock look.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/P7160115-1.jpg

Decided the heater hose runs need a little more support to stablize them when I get to beat on the car some, so making bracket to support them off firewall.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/P7230132-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/P7230133-1.jpg

The electric power brakes setup is installed and plumbed in. Just need to wire it in when electrial hardness are in.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/P7160122-1.jpg





While body was back off we modified the inner fender wells so I can run 1.0" wider tire that can be 2.0" more in dia. without getting into inner fender. Limiting factor is now the frame.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/P7060101-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/P7060104-1.jpg

Decided the car was a little too light, so I'm adding another layer of sound deadner over the CLD layer already installed.

Also decide to go with a little more Project Scope Creep. Adding more covered storage area and leveling out rear floor pan behind seats. Using hinged spare tire cover out of 67 chevy station wagon to close it out.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/P7230130-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/P7230126-1.jpg

[jocko124]

what's the color of the car?

[Poorhousenext]

what's the color of the car?

Believe it are not, that a hard question to answer. Color changes based on lighting and lighting angle. Can be dark almost black gunmetal, Blueish gunmetal, flat light grey, sometimes will have a greenish or olive green tint to it. Hard to photograph.

If cloudy, it tends to be lighter flater color than when sunny. One thing it's good at and why I chose it, is it alway shows off cars bodylines due to it shading changes from almost any angle car is viewed from.

The car can sit outside in the same place, and you want see the same look or color to paint if viewed a 9 am, 12 pm or 5 pm. Even up close you may not see any pearl or metalic look to it, while other days you will.

It's an Audi color, Daytona Gunmetal Pearlized used on R8s.

Maybe these photo taken inside will show you some of the color changes. Two taken with flash on and two with it off. Angles paint is shot from changes the color.

Flash on

Metalic Dark bluish tint Gunmetal shot straight on.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/P7150109-1.jpg

Pearl Blue tint shot from angle.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/P7060082-1.jpg

Flash off

Metalic dark grey shot across fender

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/P7230131-1.jpg

Flat light gray shot from another angle.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/P7160119-1.jpg

[jocko124]

Believe it are not, that a hard question to answer. Color changes based on lighting and lighting angle. Can be dark almost black gunmetal, Blueish gunmetal, flat light grey, sometimes will have a greenish or olive green tint to it. Hard to photograph.

If cloudy, it tends to be lighter flater color than when sunny. One thing it's good at and why I chose it, is it alway shows off cars bodylines due to it shading changes from almost any angle car is viewed from.

The car can sit outside in the same place, and you want see the same look or color to paint if viewed a 9 am, 12 pm or 5 pm. Even up close you may not see any pearl or metalic look to it, while other days you will.

It's an Audi color, Daytona Gunmetal Pearlized used on R8s.

Maybe these photo taken inside will show you some of the color changes. Two taken with flash on and two with it off. Angles paint is shot from changes the color.

Flash on

Metalic Dark bluish tint Gunmetal shot straight on.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/P7150109-1.jpg

Pearl Blue tint shot from angle.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/P7060082-1.jpg

Flash off

Metalic dark grey shot across fender

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/P7230131-1.jpg

Flat light gray shot from another angle.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/P7160119-1.jpg



I like it!

[LeighP]

Great build thread...they really nailed the lines and mods o nthe car...it looks great!
A big thanks you for the post o nteh wheel choice....those have bee nadded to my short lest for my project. I'm looking for wheels that have that late 60's early 70's road race/sport car look about them.

[Bjkadron]

Nice! can't wait to see it finished!

[WS6]

I love this car lol. I love the body changes.

[BrianE]

Very cool project!! I'm thinking of building an 80 Corvette, with an LS7 and T56 Magnum. Cannot wait to see the finished car!!!

[truckshop1999]

awesome car!! where did you get the widened quarters and would you still get them there after putting them on? I'm in the process of a 64 vette build too and someone already butchered my quarters by rounding them.

[1971CHEVELLE]

Awesome car :thankyou:can't wait to see it finished

[69X22]

Great build thread...they really nailed the lines and mods o nthe car...it looks great!
A big thanks you for the post o nteh wheel choice....those have bee nadded to my short lest for my project. I'm looking for wheels that have that late 60's early 70's road race/sport car look about them.

I agree they nailed it. I love flared out vettes, but most screw them up when they flare them out.

[Poorhousenext]

awesome car!! where did you get the widened quarters and would you still get them there after putting them on? I'm in the process of a 64 vette build too and someone already butchered my quarters by rounding them.

There are two choices for aftermarket pre stretched rear quarters.
One source sells 1.0" stretched rears and the other 1.5"/1.75" ones as well as stretched fronts fenders to complement their rears as front to rear width gets out of balance if you just use their rears.

The 1.0" stretched rears are made by GTS Customs. These are the most common ones used as they change the car's body lines the least. Most people have little problem using them.

The other choice Corvette City doesn't have the best customer service reputation based on delivering on schedule, after reschedule, after re-. They also require more fiberglass work as they do not come with bumper closeout requiring you to have to have to add them.

Stock C2
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/1966ChevroletCorvetteStingray42-1.jpg

C2 with GTS quarters

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/1cool67vettegtsquarters2-1.jpg

C2 with Corvette City quarters and front fenders

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/InternetExplorerWallpaper-1.jpg

C2 with Redneck engineering and crafting quarters & front fenders.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/DSCN6208-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/DSCN6199-1.jpg

We did start with 1.00" stretched rear quarters from GTS Customs, but it would have been easier and better to have started with stock quarters.

If you go back to my Post 11, you can see that you could get a little more rear wheel coverage by grabbing bottom of quarter's rear wheel well opening and pulling it out as far as the stiffness of the bumper closeout will allow and then cut and splice the rear wheel well opening's bonding strip to hold it in place.

I believe that want require modifying the bumper to fit contour change. More than that will require you two cut out the bumper closeout so it will pull out wards more.

Car with GTS quarters has aftermarket frame, so to fit the same size rear tires, you will need to purchase aftermarket offset rear trailing arms, narrowed rear spring(s) and offset rear sway bar.

Hopes this helped you, along with showing you what B-Rod or Custom in Knowville, TN accomplished by custom stretching quarters to fit wheels and tires to get more rear tire coverage than a stock body C2 has.

Even more impressive when you consider there is 2.0" of space between the 295/45/18's Nitto's and frame/body allowing me to change too 11 rims and 12.50" wide tires to help with traction when in competition.

[drflex]

nailed it on the body mods.

[Ripped]

I like it. The only thing that I would change, is the exhaust. That's just personal preference, but I think with the "wasp waist" look of your car, it just begs for sidepipes. It would lend itself to a little more 'classic look'

Except, you risk burning your legs :)

Turned out good, though

[Motown 454]

It looks sweet.

[Poorhousenext]

I like it. The only thing that I would change, is the exhaust. That's just personal preference, but I think with the "wasp waist" look of your car, it just begs for sidepipes. It would lend itself to a little more 'classic look'

Except, you risk burning your legs :)

Turned out good, though

Due to the "wasp waist's" contour there is no way to mount side exhaust and they look like they belong on car. Next problem is stock side exhaust do not flow well and a big drag on making power.

Even the best aftermarket ones like that Black Coupe has aren't much better. Another thing with side exhaust is they are in your ear loud. Drive one for 6-8 Hours and you've had your fill of them and wish you had out the back exhaust.

Have to say those 4 big Billy Boat NPP Fusion's 4.0" outside dia cans take getting use too. 3.5" would look better.

Shop hated them at first an I almost backed out on using them too. Like I said, they grown on you, and now there is no way the Shop would let me remove them.

They are part of modern look borrowed from C6/Z06 just as the front fender vent design is. Most everybody does Classic. We're trying to Modernized a Classic design in hopes it looks like it could have been one of GM design departsment's Sting Ray Concept cars.

I'm even trying to tastfully mount a "CUP HOLDER" in it to modernize interior somewhat...LOL

[Ripped]

Due to the "wasp waist's" contour there is no way to mount side exhaust and they look like they belong on car. Next problem is stock side exhaust do not flow well and a big drag on making power.

Even the best aftermarket ones like that Black Coupe has aren't much better. Another thing with side exhaust is they are in your ear loud. Drive one for 6-8 Hours and you've had your fill of them and wish you had out the back exhaust.

Have to say those 4 big Billy Boat NPP Fusion's 4.0" outside dia cans take getting use too. 3.5" would look better.

Shop hated them at first an I almost backed out on using them too. Like I said, they grown on you, and now there is no way the Shop would let me remove them.

They are part of modern look borrowed from C6/Z06 just as the front fender vent design is. Most everybody does Classic. We're trying to Modernized a Classic design in hopes it looks like it could have been one of GM design departsment's Sting Ray Concept cars.

I'm even trying to tastfully mount a "CUP HOLDER" in it to modernize interior somewhat...LOL

LOL
yeah, my engine builder has a BB (427) C2 with sidepipes. He has versed me on the loudness, that he has to deal with. H may even copy the resonator design that I am using.

Yeah probably 3.5's might look better. It does hint at the evil residing under the hood and in the upgrades.

2 thumbs up on the 'glass work.

I just blocked the high build on my f/g hood, (1 1/2 -2 years in primer) last week, and noticed the heat from the engine had 'imaged' the supporting structure on the surface of the hood. It (luckily) blocked out without breaking through the high build.
I cannot imagine doing a whole 'glass car... yikes

[Poorhousenext]

Little update on progress of the 64. Shop has been sloging through the wiring on car. They were doing ok on rear and front harnesses. Custom engine harness only problem was with cam sensor wiring. Had to get a pigtail harness from GM so we could plug it up.

The transmission controller harness has been a nightmare. The wiring documentation left a lot to be desired. Mfg 'sTech support was ok, that is once you got past their very defensive aditude.

Lack of wire diagrams, are just instructions telling you, that you only use that wire if installing it on non elcetronic car, but you do use the other two wires in bunnel. Are you have two wires in a bunnel and they tell you to hook this wire to that output, but don't give you a clue as to what to do with the other wire in bunnel if anyting. Think we got most of it figured out last Friday, so shop could start hooking everthing up.

Here are a few pictures of the dash panel that has been modifyed from it's original design to clean up looks by glassing in radio speaker grill and removed stock radio hole so we could use space behind it for 3 control boxes, and face of it for 4 rocker switches, 3 that support transmission functions, and 4th one that opens and closes the NPP exhaust Valve. Also decided to move transmission gear indicator from console to dash panel.

Stock gage cluster and glove box have been painted interior color rather than stock black use on midyear vettes, except for a few concept and corporate exce cars.

Stock gages have been sliver faced and speedo has been re-screened to show top speed of 200 MPH. Tach has been converted to electronic too.

Because of equipment install behind dash, we decided it was best to make it as easy as possible to remove rather than have to drill out fastners to remove it. It will no longer be riveted in as orignal.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/P8270245-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/P8270221-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/P8270236-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/P8270235-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/P8270226-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/P1250207-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/P8270238-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/P8270243-1.jpg

The mod to add more closed storage and flat storage behind seats has been completed.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/P8270224-1.jpg

[ChevelleNV]

:jawdrop: wow, that's is a wicked looking Vette. I'm jealous...

[mc84_zz4]

Wow, that is going to be absolutely stunning! I'd love to see more pics of that paint, once it makes it out to the sun.. :smoke:

[Poorhousenext]

Things have been going slowly for the last couple of months.

Finally got the car over to Craig's Hotrods in Knoxville to have him do exhaust. We had to move emergency cable bell crank up along with cables where they go thru the frame at rear axle so we could get the 3.0' oval exhaust pipe use to provide 3/4" more ground clearance tucked as tight as possible to floor pan.

To get a more ground clearance where exhaust goes under firewall require reworking header to fit 3.0" round to oval transition so that the 3.0 oval (2 1/4" tall) was tight to floor pan from firewall back.

The mufflers are Billy Boat NNP Fusions that a gentleman on another Forum sold to me at a bargain price that included shipping are they wouldn't be on car.

The NPP feature is controlled by after market electronic unit made by Sunset Orange Creations that allows me to open the open/close valve to bypass the muffler an go straight through, rather than use factory rpm controlled GM vacuum unit. I will be able to control bypass valve from inside the car with one of the 4 rocker switches on the dash are from outside the car with a RF switched key fob at any rpm from idle up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/PA250315-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/PA250316-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/PA250318-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/64corvette009-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/PA250319-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/PA250323-1.jpg

[1968CamaroSS_Sam]

This is turning out to be one gorgeous Vette. Great job.

[jy211]

great color combo...

[Motown 454]

I love this car it looks beautiful. Awesome work !

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Looks good cant wait to see some overall pics of the car.

[sr73bu]

I love that color combo! very classy! keep up the great work!

[LeighP]

Man...thats one awesome car...love that body style and all you've done just makes it look even better. Love the exhaust!

[bonecrrusher]

Nice updates - that exhaust works looks bad ass!

I didn't know you where in TN - you should checkout the Run Thru the Hills event in September if you haven't been to it, its in Pigeon Forge, TN.

Also - you should checkout the Hot Rod Power Tour - they announced the events for next years event, and they will be stopping at LPG Field in Nashville next year!

I love the NPP 3" Z06 exhaust on my C6 - I have the mild2wild kit on it - and its real nice quieting it down on a 2k mile road trip.

[Poorhousenext]

Been killing time again. This time to try and supply Fresh air to engine. This was one thing I really wanted to do.

First thing I had to do was find a filter that would flow at least 600 CFM thru a 3.0" dia pipe. Since Filter Manufactures decided not to list CFM air flow of filters on their website, it was like pulling teeth to get CFM of filter out of them. Not a big fan of K&N, but finally got help trying to idenify ones that could flow min of 600 CFM and then see if any would fit.

To see if the one that flowed the most CFM would fit, we made a simple cardboard mock-up of it to see if there was space to fit it and clear the headlight buckets when they were rotated to open.

Next we made a trip to Lowes and picked up some elbows and straight 3.0" PVC pieces to see if there was space to fit the piping. There is a problem if using PCV because it's wall is a lot thicker than metal tubing with same 3.0" ID and bends have a larger radius. That caused us to do some unneeded trimming to fit it, Vs what we were able to do with metal tubing with tight U-Bends on end product.

My hope is that I get an added benefit of two 3.0" tubes Vs one 4.0" dia tube, being that neither filter will ever have air being pulled through it at it's max CFM the engine needs. I'm hoping this helps with both air filtration and not pulling a lot of moisture in when driving in rain. To help keep moisture out, I also have K&N Dryfilter covers used on personal water craft air filters to cover them to help keep water out of engine.

If I did not have breakaway hood hinges that allow quick removal and reinstallation of hood, I would not have persued this as Hood has to be removed to service the filters.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/DSCN6561-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/PC140368-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/PC140359-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/PC140358-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/PC140357-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/PC140354-1.jpg

[Motown 454]

Nice progress.

[bonecrrusher]

Cool update!

[Poorhousenext]

Been awhile since I had anything to update on car due to a problem we ran into that require car to be removed form frame to fiX. That's taken longer than expected too.

While waiting, decided it was time to figure out what to do about either going with GM LS Engine covers, to cover the stock valve covers with coils on top, or replacing stock valve covers with taller ones that require coils to be relocated.

GM covers left a lot to be desired, as my alternator is mounted on opposite side, so that left corner of drivers side valve cover and coil exposed. Also that's what most use.

I looked at relocating coils and using aftermarket taller valve covers. But just so tired of trying to hide things, so as usual for me in trying to make car different from the crowd, I decide on a set of valve covers from Katech Performance and use their coil mounting system rather than hide them. Their mounting system just moves coil off valve covers and put them above them.

With anything other than engine covers, I still needed to deal with exposed fuel rails and injector wiring that needed to be hidden from sight. My decision to go with the Katech valve covers made the coils a focus point on engine instead of hiding them. Some may like that, some may not, but it's different from what you most often see with LS engine installs.

I actually started out trying to cover the coils, but that hid the valve covers, so decided to leave them exposed, and just make a set of fuel rail covers instead of engine covers to hide injector and coil wiring.

To see what I was dealing with, I started out with a big piece of cardboard and whittled it down to come up with base coverage size needed. Next had to convey my idea to shop of what I was looking for. That lead to shop's idea to trim and fit an old valve cover area so we had a hard surface to work with. Using valve covers, cardboard and masking tape we came up with a base mold we could layup a part we could work with using bondo to shape it, and then make a mold to make final parts off of.

Worked out that we only needed one mold to make left and right hand parts, even after shop added in the contours around and in between the coils, so they did not look straight and plain. Parts are same except for tab on right hand one use to cover MAP sensor wiring plug.

To me at least, it looks like something GM might have done on a Concept Car.

Started with this as base.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P4180432-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P4180431-1.jpg

Next came using the old valve as hard surface to tie things together.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P4180430-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P4180434-1.jpg

Add the cardboard to valve cover with masking tape. Paint it black to see if it might work, and then produce fiberglass piece of it to work with to come up with final shape, pickup some stainless Corvette lettering to see how that might add a little pop to covers. Then using bondo come up with final fuel rail cover shape to make a part mold off off. You can see we are trying to make the Fuel Rail covers mounting points look like the ones on the Valve Covers to try and tie the two together.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P4180437-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P4280442-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P4280443-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P4280444-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P4280448-1.jpg

Made a mold, pulled parts off it. Cleaned up the shape on them.
To try and make mounting points look like those on the valve covers, we pulled molds off the valve covers mount points to make 4 pieces to resemble the anodized washers molded in to them.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/fuelrailcover1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/fuelrailcover2-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/fuelrailcover3-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/fuelrailcover4-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P5170460-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P5170461-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P5170462-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P5170458-1.jpg

So now I have 8 ugly coils sticking out, but the fuel rails, injector and coil wiring are hid.:banghead:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P5260471-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P52604641-1.jpg


PS: Looks a little better in person than in the pictures. Should help when we get letters stuck on.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Nice work.. I know myself id rather look at the coils than the rails and wiring...

[Ripped]

I like the covers, that you made. They look very professional, and have that "factory" custom look.

I bet it was a lot of work!

Can't wait for more pics, and more progress!

[CruizinKev]

wow very nice!!! love the covers! :twothumbs

[Vicinity]

:drool:

Love it.

[Motown 454]

You guys did an awesome job on those Rail covers. I like them just the way they are. Maybe you could put some red tape on the coils to see if the MSD coils or atleast the color would change the look a little more to your liking.. Nice work.

[camaro_fan1]

I've worked on this car and pics don't do any of it justice

[Poorhousenext]

I like the covers, that you made. They look very professional, and have that "factory" custom look.

I bet it was a lot of work!

Can't wait for more pics, and more progress!

I think I should correct something with the way I wrote post as I don't like to take credit for work I didn't do. Re-read my post and see it looks like I did all the work.

I didn't do any of the real work.

I came up with the shape and what to cover design wise, with one exception. Co-Owner of shop is the one who made my vision come to life by doing all the real work.

Design wise he is the one who came up with the shapes/contours around the coil opening that give them the professional look. I knew they needed something to keep them from looking plain, and he knew what would do it.

He is also the one that made my vision for lower front fender vent come to life. I made a rough clay model of what I wanted and thought would bring out the lower fender to give the tire coverage I was looking for, and he made it happen. What was on the rendering was to flat to do it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/PB270080-1.jpg

[Poorhousenext]

Guess it's time to try and explain color and/or colors of paint I chose for car. Since I at least like to think car has a modernized look to it, I decided to use a contemporary style new car paint color rather than original or period paint color.

Look of new car paints are more of what you would have called custom paint in the past. Lot of people will think it's a custom mix rather than off the shelf new car paint when they see car in person. Anyone seeing car in pictures will not really have a clue about it's color and/or colors and paints really pops in certain lighting conditions, which I'm sure could make some old timers say "What the Hell was he thinking." Younger generations on the other hand think it just normal paint...:D

Like many new car paints in the past 3-4 years paint I use is Pearlized or what some call prizmatined, (pearl shell color like chips that changes color as light strikes it from different directions). There is also another type of pearl that can be use in even a stock corvette color were color itself is almost the same, it just adds pop to the paint. My 66 paint uses that type pearl to make it pop lighter are darker depending on light.

Going to start trying to educate you on paint with colors it can turn both inside and outside when it cloudy or late in day. Color I really hate to see it turn.

Hood sitting on stand under fluorescent lighting. Ugly flat grey.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/P8050552-1.jpg

Hood moved outside in sun. Notice that flat grey has gone to almost black.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/P8050553-1.jpg

Hood placed on body. This time if you look a the side of stinger, you can see what was black color in the previous picture has changed to a color similar to color of stripe.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/P8050574-1.jpg

Now in this picture you see another shade of grey, but watch what happens when I move and take pictures where direction of light changes and as it does, so does color/shade paint turns.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/P8130620-1.jpg

I Changed camera angle of shot and this time body looks Black.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/P8130599-1.jpg

I've moved back, used flash and if you look from rear to front, at about start of lower fender vent, you may be able to see paint there is starting to take on a blue tint to it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/P8130600-1.jpg

Now light source that caused that blueish changed in prior picture, is the main light source on this shot of front of car. Now the paint color has changed to a blue.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/P8130604-1.jpg

This time with hood up. It's not black or grey color anymore.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/P8130618-1.jpg

Now from side angle shot, you can see paint goes from blueish color toward the grey hood was in first picture.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/P8130606-1.jpg

Backed away for this last shot.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/P8130623-1.jpg

So in future when you see a picture of car were the paint is ugly, please don't worry, it can look even worst or maybe even better.

Camaro_fan1 in my biased opinion said it best.


I've worked on this car and pics don't do any of it justice

[WS6]

Love the color! and the car really.

[Poorhousenext]

Car builder down in Austraila made statement below that I found myself facing back in Sept of last year and had the paint on car not lifted and required complete repaint, I would have probably just stayed with what we had already done, like it or not.


Thought for the day:-, when building any part of your car:- step back and take a real hard look at what you have done.
If you don't say "WOW" I really like that:- pull it off and start again. If you have to find a reason to like what you have done, then it's wrong, pure and simple.

I had not done what I wanted to do with center dash layout and how we mounted 4 Rocker switches 3 that control transmission functions, and one that operates the NPP exhaust Mild to Wild RPM opening setting.

While I had no problem staying with my original stock gages and clock, slivered faced, with 200 MPH speedo, I also wanted and most likely needed a Transmission Fluid Temp gage so I could monitor it's temp later on.

Plus the car's body had been changed to modernize it's looks, rest of the interior is fixing to get it's more modern look too, and my builder thought I needed to update look of gages to give them a more modern look to match.

I caved in as redoing center dash as that cured my big problem with it's look.

If I was going to updated gages it would only be if I could do it using stock needles as I hate aftermarket ones as they are dead giveaways that you have aftermarket gages, plus I wanted a classier look than needles on most aftermarket gages have. Also only if the Midyears big Iconic clock could be refaced to match so I could keep it. Another requirement was they not have manufactures name and/or gage name in big letters on them. I hate that as it's a really dead giveaway that gages might not be factory. My car is so old most don't know what original gages looked like anyway.

I wanted gages that give the impression as if they were a concept GM design department might have done. After all my main goal is for a Concept Car look of a production body that cold be use in place of the Grand Sport Corvette race only bodied cars. Found a company that was willing to do what I wanted including facing original clock to match, so I pulled the trigger.

Here is what I had.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/P9170281-1.jpg

Here is paper layout stuck to center dash so builder could cut all the openings spaced correctly and most of all the slots that let me use modified Radio control bezels to mount rocker switches into and add sticker to try and simulate the stock control bezels as it allowed the builder to cut the half moon hole for their locater tab for alignment. Also add Radio opening at top of center dash, opening for trans temp gage, along with moving it lower to save it due to needing to install radio higher up due to width problem with it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/P7220544-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/P8130609-1.jpg

Here is picture of 2011 Corvette gages I used for lettering style and use of cross flags on Speedo and Tach. Might as well update to a look that keeps it in the family.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/11ChevyCorvetteGrandSportDV11_DAS_i03-1.jpg

Here is only close up of gage cluster I have. Took it when cluster arrived this past Tuesday, before we had a chance to repaint it due to scratches in paint.

Where able to use stock needles to try and misdirect people who don't look close and see gages are aftermarket not original ones refaced. Clock is refaced to match, rather than have it not match or like most who go with aftermarket gages not used due to not matching look of gages.

Use dulled spun look bare aluminum for face, slanted lettering like the C6 gages have, with midyear style Cross flags to match look of late model cross flags. The lighting diffuser rings in gages where painted same color as dash, again for a try at a little misdirection. The red dot in tach just below 50 is a superbrite LED shift light triggered by Raptor Performance switch, I've used before on Motorcycles where space is limited. There are also tiny red dots at 15,25,35,45,55 and 65 MPH increments on speedo, again used as misdirection or gages not being aftermarket, as no Mfg in his right mind would do that.:hah:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/P83006002-1.jpg

Ater repaint.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/dash1-1.jpg

Here is the center dash layout with trans temp gage with a bezel we made to make it match clock and rest of gages mounting.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/dash2-1.jpg

Here is a look at how dash will look in car when installed. It's the best I could do to clean up the looks of it vs he 1st attempt, that was worst, at least to me. As some of you may have noticed, the clock does not have the polished stainless ring around it's face like all the gages do, because it is the only refaced original gage and company didn't have a gage same size we could use the lens retainer off of to do that. Shame we couldn't pull that off too! Maybe one day I will find a way to to it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/dash3-1.jpg

At least I can say no other Midyear Restomod Corvette has these style gages in it.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Gauges turned out killer... Do they have domed covers?

[BritishGreen68]

AWESOME job on the gauges, that clock rules!

[Poorhousenext]

Gauges turned out killer... Do they have domed covers?

The lens/covers are domed, like the originals.

[Bad Bird]

Mate, that is absolutely beautiful. I love the look of vintage instruments, and you have nailed it perfectly. I'd go as far as saying you have the best looking custom dash that I have ever seen.

[wellis77]

Who built the gauges then? They are perfect for your car, and that clock is awesome!

[Poorhousenext]

Who built the gauges then? They are perfect for your car, and that clock is awesome!

Classic Instruments.

[Code Red]

awesome build. I love the valve covers

[Tig]

It looks amazing, great job.

[Z28Mike]

Man what a car. Awesome work, awesome car. I love it. I did some time at a body shop years ago, besides it's been in the family forever. That's one car that sticks in my head and brings me back in a time warp. I drove pretty much all of the older ones. I really like the 68-73's as well. But we put a rear quarter and a front clip on a 66 vert. The smell of bondo/glass resin still takes me back to this day, to where this all started for me. I only got to drive it once but for me they just had a killer look that just screams pro-touring. Something I always wanted to build into a real drivers car.

[sixfivepost]

Are you sure you're not in the poorhouse already?! :-D Wow, looks like a million bucks... or at least a cool 100 grand! Beautiful car; mean and classy.

[StyleIn68]

I love the oval exhaust. The amount of time spent on the details on this car are SICK!

How much time do you think you have into those valve covers?

[Poorhousenext]

Are you sure you're not in the poorhouse already?! :-D Wow, looks like a million bucks... or at least a cool 100 grand! Beautiful car; mean and classy.

I'm sure getting close to being it. Shipping the car roundtrip to Las Vagas and back should just about do it.

If I'm not sleeping in the Poor House,:getout: I'll be sleeping in the car...:nopity:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/P91406301-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/P91406371-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/P91406381-1.jpg

[irregal83]

wow sweet ride man!! love the details.. are you keeping the dash that color?

[Poorhousenext]

I love the oval exhaust. The amount of time spent on the details on this car are SICK!

How much time do you think you have into those valve covers?

The fuel rail covers took about 20 hrs from start to finish. Only had to build one mold to pull left and right part off of. Then add to that two hours of machine time to make the metal washers to match the ones that came on the Katech Carbon fiber valve covers.

[Poorhousenext]

wow sweet ride man!! love the details.. are you keeping the dash that color?

Yes. What you see is not quite the color of the dash due to lights. It is a dark maroon that has a brownish tint, that comes out more in certain lighting conditions.

The color was use by both Porsche and Mercedes back in 60's with gunmetal, dark gray and sliver painted cars. The brighter red Maroon leather was to much of a clash with paint. It's a try at trying to make car have a more up scale look. At times I do wonder if it will. Here is close to what it looks like when fluorescent light is blocked some.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/P91702811-1.jpg

Should be interesting to see what happens when the original green tint glass is installed.

If you ever get to see the car's paint in person in right lighting or wrong lighting conditions, you'll probably ask your self, "what in the hell was he thinking with it too!!!.:spank2:

[Poorhousenext]

Finally got the engine cranked after working through problems with cam sensor and throttle peddle connectors having wires installed in wrong pin location. Not a happy camper about that.

Decide to pull it outside and take a few pictures. Still need to finish up and tweak a few things before we take the car to upholstery shop Tuesday and still way behind schedule on getting car ready for the road.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/SANY0105-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/SANY0103-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/SANY0097-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/SANY0104-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/SANY0102-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/SANY0101-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/SANY0100-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/SANY0099-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/SANY0098-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/SANY0097-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/SANY0096-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/SANY0094-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/SANY0093-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/SANY0092-1.jpg

[Motown 454]

This came out beautiful! This has got to be my favorite Corvette. Awesome!

[ChevelleNV]

Wow...that is the sickest vette Ive seen to date. I love it

[S Griffin]

That is a truly incredible Corvette! Simply amazing

[neki67]

WOW, extremely sharp, congrats!

I'm building up a modest PT 68 Corvette convertible and although it's a different gen. your car is extremely inspirational.

[Mathi]

Damn, this is one of the nicest corvette's on this planet... Really nice work, love everything on this car, the stance, engine, wheels, everything...

congrats!!!!

[Poorhousenext]

Thanks everyone for your praise. It's be a long, hard go at getting car finished up and running, but your comments have made it worth it.

Still have a lot of work to do before we hopefully can take it out for viewing by the public first week in November, if we get everything finished up in time.

Finishing the Interior work in time is the next challenge. We have been piece milling it. First with dash pads, and then seats. Has to go to upholstery shop by Tuesday of this week to be finished up, or we will not get it finished in time.

Couple of shots of dash and seats.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/PA010696-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/PA010695-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/445-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/451-1.jpg

[Yelcamino]

Awesome Vette! This will be a serious head turner once you get it on the road!

[sixfivepost]

Sick! To me it looks like a concept car of what a new retro Stingray would look like if it were produced.

[tom_a]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/P7060094-1.jpg



Very nice. I am also wondering the source for your accessory drive. Looks like OE style pump and balancer but don't know that I have seen the brackets etc.

Thanks,

[CruizinKev]

wow looks sick!!! :twothumbs

[Poorhousenext]

Very nice. I am also wondering the source for your accessory drive. Looks like OE style pump and balancer but don't know that I have seen the brackets etc.

Thanks,

The accessory drive system is made by Street Shop Inc., the shop that made the chassis. They cover the LS family of engines including LS9.

Here's Link to assessory page. You can click on each pictures to enlarge it for better viewing.

http://www.streetshopinc.com/ls_conversions.html

[tom_a]

The accessory drive system is made by Street Shop Inc., the shop that made the chassis. They cover the LS family of engines including LS9.

Here's Link to assessory page. You can click on each pictures to enlarge it for better viewing.

http://www.streetshopinc.com/ls_conversions.html

Thanks for the reply and link.

[Flash68]

Wow that thing is amazing. Killer!

[John Wright]

Wow that thing is amazing. Killer!

+1...very, very nice Vette!....awsome looking car

[Greg from Aus]

That is killer, the best I have seen.

Greg

[bonecrrusher]

Wow - this car is sick Poorhouse!

[michael6372]

Man, that is a great looking Vette!! Will be causing accidents everywhere! GREAT job!!!

[Torquedork]

I LOVE this Car! Beautifully Done!!!!

[Poorhousenext]

Since returning form SEMA Show, we've had the dash out of the car to send off wiper motor to get it rebuilt and waitng on a new wiper switch to come in. Also front belt drive system had a squeal due to stackup of tolarances so it was damn hard to figure out what the problem was there. Finally got everthing fixed and back together so we could corner weigh the car.

Looks like Lydia is a WalMart Lady...:)

Knew we had added a lot of weight to car part in due to all the glass work, C6 Power Seats, 150 lbs of insulation/sound deadener, Billy Boat C6 Fusion NPP exhaust, 6X auto transmission, A/C, etc.

The weight added is around 350 lbs more and than similar C2 Restomod builds with Street Shop chassis used. Chassis spring weights were based on average range of 2800 -2950 lbs that most builds weighed in at and have 51%/49% front to rear weight distribution.

By contrast Lydia weighed in at 3279 lbs with only 3 gallons of gas in tank.

Good news is the right had side is a little heavier than left side and the Front to Rear weight distribution is within 0.5 % of being 50/50%.

Bad news is she will have to be re-sprung to compensate for both the change in front to rear weight distribution and addition of around 400 lbs of weight and will need a bigger sway bar to help her in the corners.

At least it didn't start out tail heavy like some of the aftermarket C2 chassis's. I would be in big trouble with car being way too tail heavy for a sports car that's not a drag race only car.

LF = 800 Lbs
RF= 826 Lbs

Front Total = 1626 Lbs

LR = 823 Lbs
RR = 830 Lbs

Rear Total = 1653 Lbs

Total Weight = 3279 Lbs

Left Side total = 1623 Lbs
Right side total = 1656 Lbs


Left Front/Right rear = 1630 Lbs

Right Front/Left Rear = 1649 Lbs

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/PC210115-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/PC210114-1.jpg

Shop weighed the 66 convertible that has the same chassis under it, because it was hard to believe how much weight had been added and how much of that weight was added to rear of car.

Now the 66 at this time doesn't have exhaust system on it, convertible top has not been installed on it's frame and she has no fluids in engine yet, so she will probably weight in when finished around 75-100 lbs heavier and most of that weight will be to front end. Weight wise it should be right in line with the average Street Shop chassis Restomod build weight.

LF = 759 Lbs
RF = 703 Lbs

Front Total = 1462 Lbs

LR = 637 Lbs
RR = 670 Lbs

Rear Total = 1307 Lbs

Total Weight = 2769 Lbs

Left Side total = 1396 Lbs
Right side total = 1373 Lbs


Left Front/Right rear = 1429 Lbs

Right Front/Left Rear = 1340 Lbs

[chevnut55]

love it,awsome machine! the shop did great on the body.
i know how hard it is ,I just finished a custom 67 for a customer I had to remove the front to rear line,flair fenders,3rd tail lights,c5 door handels..and paint it black.
fell in love with the lines and Im selling my camaro and cobra to build my own.
let us know how it drives and some picts of it in use.

[Poorhousenext]

Some picture of car taken just before leaving for SEMA and at the show. Apologize or the quality of some of the pictures that I took due to low light conditions and fact that my hands shake faster than camera stabilization can overcome they are blurry.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/DSC0063XL-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/DSC0054XL2-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/DSC0067XL1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/DSC0079XL-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/DSC0139XL-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/IMG_35172-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/IMG_35182-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/sema21-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/sema61-1.jpg

Interior at SEMA, no center arm rest due to lack of time before show. Now has a center arm rest and carpet has been changed out to one in same color family as leater used.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/sema51-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/PC300138-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/PB020053-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/PB020062-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/PB020068-1.jpg

The young man with the glasses is who did all the bodywork.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/PB020072-1.jpg

Some of you may recognize Jon Kosmoski, founder of House of Kolor in below picture. He stopped by to check out car on the way from his hotel to convention center on Monday (setup day) while we were waiting to be called to take car in. B-rod or Custom owner Larry Burchett is the other one in picture. Jon paid him and his son a hugh complement on the car's design, paint and bodywork. The picture below it should tell you why. Wide body C2 Vette in it was either in House of Color booth in 2010 or 2011.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/PA310019-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/IMG_8935-1.jpg

I just was barly got a quick shot of young lady taking pictures of car on her lunch break. Why I took it is because she was a Booth girl that took the time to take a look at car and thought enough of it to take pictures to show to her friends or family. She must be one of Barry's Car Crazy Ladies. You just got to love them...LOL

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/PB040079-1.jpg

[buck19]

Great job on the car. Paint looks great. I have a few questions about your build and advise for a new build we have currently started. 67 convertible with SRIII chassis, C6 suspension.
What seats did you use for your convertible build? Do you have any photos or links to your convertible build?
What steering column and wheel did you use? Rack & Pinion setup?
Center Console with armrest and cup holders?
Why did you change from a 4L85e to a 6L90e ? We are considering both transmissions right now for our 650HP LSA engine. I located a few forums that you wrote regarding shifters for the 6L90e however, could not find any writings from you about comparing the transmissions in a C2 build. All things being equal, after Stage 3 upgrades to both tranny's, the 4L85e appears to be more durable, less expensive, and without tunnel modifications.

Thank you for any insight and advise. Again, Great job on your C2's!

[Poorhousenext]

Great job on the car. Paint looks great. I have a few questions about your build and advise for a new build we have currently started. 67 convertible with SRIII chassis, C6 suspension.


What seats did you use for your convertible build?

The seats in my 66 are 2008 C6 corvette seats, backs cut down and 67 headrests installed, and bottoms redone to look like 67. If I had to do over, I would have left the C6 seat bottoms along just upholstered them in pattern as 67.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/PA260330-1.jpg


Do you have any photos or links to your convertible build?
What steering column and wheel did you use? Rack & Pinion setup?

Below is link to 66 build, that when I got so envolved in the 64 project I neglected to keep it updated. Flaming Rriver Steering column and Mustang rack.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-and-c2-corvettes/1969125-think-you-want-a-6-speed-auto.html


Center Console with armrest and cup holders?

The center console was made by Steve Holcome Knoxville, TN who did the rest of the interior. The lid with the cup holders came from a console sold by Volunteer Vet in Knoxville, TN I supplied him. The lid may be from a 1998 Volvo model from some pictures I was shown by another Corvette Forum member.


Why did you change from a 4L85e to a 6L90e ? We are considering both transmissions right now for our 650HP LSA engine. I located a few forums that you wrote regarding shifters for the 6L90e however, could not find any writings from you about comparing the transmissions in a C2 build. All things being equal, after Stage 3 upgrades to both tranny's, the 4L85e appears to be more durable, less expensive, and without tunnel modifications.

First, the 66 vert has a 6L80E. As you will see in link to it's build above I started and finished build with it. 6L90E would have presented even more of a problem trying to fit it as it a little longer and you will need a short pan for it. Using a short pan to me means you will need a tank to supply more fluid so you don't get cavitation under hard acceleration starving the converter. I believe the SRIII frame hangs down more below the body than a stock frame or Street Shop. This may help with pan to ground clearance are at least provide some protection for pan on speed bumps. It was a lot of hassel just so I could say I have a 6 speed auto.

I started with a 4L65 converted to 4L70 in the 64 Coupe. I decided to go with TCI 6X 6sp after I found out about it and the 64 got to over the top and needed a trans more suited to it's styling...LOL

6X is based off 4L80E just has two extra gears fitted an it's also a close ratio geared trans. The gearing is what really got my attention. When I started playing with rear end gear ratios, I found that a 3.55 gave me a 1st gear ratio like a 4speed manual with 4.10 rear, and because it's 4th gear is 1.18 it gave me a 4.20 rear ratio in 4th good to up to 133 MPH at 6500 RPM and 28.3" tall tires. Shifts into 5th and it's 3.55 and in 6th it will cruise at 2125 RPM at 70 MPH. Also I can shift up or down to find best gears for auto crossing. 6X is also rated to hold up to 850 HP, with lifetime Mfg warrentry. Only problem installing it was on left side where main harness plugs in we had to mod tunnel so harness could be plugged in and on right side had to mod tunnel so cooling lines could be installed. Both mods I consider minor.

66 and 64 at hotel in Nashville for Goodguys Show. Ken and Barbie. 66 stock male body and the 64 has been transgendered into a female by giving it curves like a woman.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/IMG_1653-1.jpg

[Cruzs598]

Nice ride looks killer in pics but way better in person nice talking to you in Birmingham Alabama today take care nice to see sema cars on the road!

[Poorhousenext]

Update on LS3 480 HP Hot Cam performance in 1/4 mile.

At LS Fest I got to take car down the strip. 12.03 ET, 117.93 MPH, 1.96 60' foot time. Lack of Traction was not part of problem with 60' time. Didn't even spin the tires, but bent the rear end torque arm on 1st run, and a little more on second one because of how well car hooked up. By the way, car has 50/50 weight distribution. With fuel as run, it's 129 lbs heavier on rear. Approximate weight with driver was 3625-3650 lbs.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/lsfestdragsrightln2_zpsd3752aca-1.jpg (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/jere-64/media/lsfestdragsrightln2_zpsd3752aca.jpg.html)

Because car was so close to running in 11's I've decided to try and get car in the 11.2 to 11.5 range even if I can't get 60' time in the 1.6 range but stay in 1.9's instead. Converter is stalled at 2800 RPM for a reason and I want have it restalled just to try and get 60' time down.

Below is what happened by swapping LS2 MAf out with LS3 style one. Notice how that change TQ curve. Notice also that at 5225 RPM peak TQ and HP were are nearly the same. Peak HP stayed at 360 and peaked at same RPM as before change. That means I need to modify intake air tube so that the two 3.0" tubes merge to feed 4.0" tube feeding throttlebody or change out tubes for 4.0" ones. Will be a coupe of months before I can work on getting that done.

Before MAF change.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/d842a0061e30401db240d93f3f5cac25_zps3771-1.jpg (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/jere-64/media/d842a006-1e30-401d-b240-d93f3f5cac25_zps37712760.jpg.html)

After MAF change.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/bd80e8f7901741cea622b1691bed308c_zpsb857-1.jpg (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/jere-64/media/bd80e8f7-9017-41ce-a622-b1691bed308c_zpsb8576e38.jpg.html)

Here are a few more pictures of the reason why I want car to run solid mid 11's. It's because it was built to dirve. It's not a show car, just a Pro Touring one.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/jere-64/media/64-XL_zpsf7827acc.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/643XL_zps38e2deef-1.jpg (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/jere-64/media/643-XL_zps38e2deef.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/642XL_zps3d369f3b-1.jpg (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/jere-64/media/642XL_zps3d369f3b.jpg.html)