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MCMLXIX
05-21-2010, 03:18 AM
I am going to attempt to make a custom fuel tank out of stainless steel. I was interested in pieces like electrical bulkhead connectors for powering an in-tank pump. Gasket materials - Viton? Filler neck rubber elbows? In-tank hose types?

I already have three check balls from Fuel Safe to build a surge container inside the tank. I also have capacitive type fuel sending unit. (no float). I'm leaning towards a Walbro GSS340 pump.


I checked out RaceTronix website and found an intank harness, filter sock and corrugated fuel tube that works with the Walbro pump.
http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.asp?ic=UITWH%2D18&eq=&Tp=
http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.asp?ic=WFS%2D03&eq=&Tp=
http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.asp?ic=FFT%2D200&eq=&Tp=

The biggest access panel gasket I could find was Mr Gasket 675 that's an 8x12 oval. Should give all the room needed to work inside the tank. Dont know what material its made out of...

I'll need to build an inlet and outlet with -AN fittings. Vented or Non-vented? I figured I would mount the Walbro in the surge tanks with a pair of stainless band clamps. I see they offer a black "rubber" sleeve to isolate the pump; is this a good idea?
http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.asp?ic=122%2D332&eq=&Tp=



Where can I get the little parts?
Where can I get the Walbro or is Racetronix a good source?
http://www.racetronix.biz/items.asp?Bc=Walbro&BrandDesc=Walbro

PS- I did search. I saw alot of info its the small stuff I'm looking for...

CarlC
05-21-2010, 08:32 AM
FuelSafe
ATL
Auto Performance Engineering.

I've had good luck with APE on several projects, and their prices are better than most.

Most access plates are made of aluminum.

The corrugated in-tank plastic hoses are the best, and they are relatively inexpensive.

If you are going to put rubber into contact with fuel you should confirm if it is compatible. Viton for sure, Nitrile OK. If Viton was available I'd go for that.

Be very careful with the Walbro output connection. It is fragile.

MCMLXIX
05-28-2010, 09:30 PM
I tried to get a hold of APE last Saturday via email and left a voicemail on Monday and no response...

The GSS340 is a replacement for the Mustang pump so I went to the local parts store to see what one looked like. It was made by Carter and had a brass oulet rather then the plastic kind that seems so fragile. I wonder why Walbro doesn't take this approach??

I got some Buna-Nitrile washers that will withstand contact with fuel. I bought a pack of 50 so in anyone needs some - 4 for a $1.00.
I will go this weekend and get some 1/4-20 stainless or brass rod with some nuts and washers to make the bulkhead electrical connection.

I ordered a couple MR Gasket 8"x12" oval fuel cell gaskets and will have a 1/4" plate and ring waterjet out of stainless. I will run all my connections thru the plate as well as the fuel sender. Rather then the float type sender I picked up a capacitive type from Fuel Safe. Should be more acurate and can be cut to depth of any tank.

Here are some drawings I made with my ideas on how to control the fuel. The surge tank in the middle has 3 Fuel Safe check balls.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/10/67TANK4-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/10/67TANK4b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/10/67TANK4c-1.jpg

CarlC
05-31-2010, 08:13 PM
If you are just cruising down the road how is the fuel going to reach the main well? Will fuel weep under each ramp?

MCMLXIX
05-31-2010, 09:07 PM
If you are just cruising down the road how is the fuel going to reach the main well? Will fuel weep under each ramp?

Yeah. There will be a notch in the ramps here and there... Plus they'll only be tacked in place. They'll probably be taller then whats drawn out inthe diagram...

MCMLXIX
07-02-2010, 02:41 AM
Well I got my Walbro GSS340 pump from APE. Also got the in tank harness and some fuel line. I got the factory style white corrugated line as an option as well. I need to design a mounting point for the pump that will attatch to the top access plate... I'll get pics soon...

The outlet on the pump is 5/16 but I want to run a 3/8 fuel line while using the Corvette filter/regulator; Will this cause a problem?
(engine is an LS376/480hp from GMPP)

Here is the Walbro GSS340 and accessories I picked up to make my own tank...



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/1ad0e1c3-1.jpg



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/3f8b3726-1.jpg

MCMLXIX
07-03-2010, 02:05 AM
OK so I ordered a Corvette fuel filter / fuel pressure regulator from Amazon.com for $46 shipped. Supposed to be the AC delco part. We'll see when it arrives.

These are the tree part numbers I found:
GF822 : AC Delco (not including GM part numbers)
33737 : WIX
FIL3737 : NAPA

For making the connections from the tank to the FRP I found a few options:
All -AN fittings by Russell Performance
640853 : Quick disconnect 3/8" FEMALE to -6 AN MALE (black)
640863 : Quick disconnect 5/16" FEMALE to -6 AN MALE(black)
640940 : Quick disconnect 3/8" MALE to -6 AN Male (zinc)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/rus640853_w-1.jpg https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/rus640940_w-1.jpg

Dorman standard fittings / push on hose w/ clamps
800-120 : Quick disconnect 5/16" FEMALE to bare end (steel)
800-121 : Quick disconnect 3/8" FEMALE to bare end (steel)
800-155 : Quick disconnect 3/8" MALE to MALE (steel with bead on both ends - 12" length)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/rnb800120_w-1.jpg https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/rnb800155_w-1.jpg

CarlC
07-03-2010, 07:35 AM
Too bad. I'm about to sell my 'vette FFPR with only 5k miles on it, along with the 5/16" Russell AN -6 and the male output -6 fittings. Cheap.

You can get the rubber hose/GM quick connect fittings from rockauto.com.

How are you going to do the tank penetrations for fuel out and return?

There's no problem using a piece of rubber hose on the pump outlet. You just need a way to pass the fuel through a bulkhead (above question.) The 3/8" line is way more than what you will need. Note the outlet area in the pump outlet. It is tiny compared to a full 3/8", and that pump is good to well north of 600hp.

Russell also has blue fittings for the GM/Ford/Dodge quick connect. If you shop on Amazon using the Russell P/N they can usually be found for $2-$3 less than Summit.

MCMLXIX
07-05-2010, 10:40 PM
Too bad. I'm about to sell my 'vette FFPR with only 5k miles on it, along with the 5/16" Russell AN -6 and the male output -6 fittings. Cheap.

You can get the rubber hose/GM quick connect fittings from rockauto.com.

How are you going to do the tank penetrations for fuel out and return?

There's no problem using a piece of rubber hose on the pump outlet. You just need a way to pass the fuel through a bulkhead (above question.) The 3/8" line is way more than what you will need. Note the outlet area in the pump outlet. It is tiny compared to a full 3/8", and that pump is good to well north of 600hp.

Russell also has blue fittings for the GM/Ford/Dodge quick connect. If you shop on Amazon using the Russell P/N they can usually be found for $2-$3 less than Summit.

Sent you a PM on the FPR... What are you replacing it with?

Not sure how to penetrate the tank. I got a Mr.Gasket 8"x12" oval viton gasket and will have a ring an plate waterjet out of 1/4" stainless stell. I was thinking I wanted to use some stainless tubing thru the top plate. I also want to build the fuel pump hanger off the plate as well. We'll see how it plays out... I'm open to suggestions...

I still want to run the 3/8" up to the fuel rails. I dont think I'll upgrade the motor to need the 3/8" but its one of those, while I'm there and just in case....

CarlC
07-06-2010, 07:02 AM
I like 3/8". It's not too big, nor too small.

Many of the aftermarket designs use a 90* bent tube welded to the top plate to pass fuel through. The pump can be strapped to either a second downtube or the return tube. By properly locating the tubes only a short piece of submersible rubber hose is needed to splice the pump to the output.

You may find it necessary to angle the pump in the tank. The GSS340 + filter + splice + tube - top place recess may mean that there is insufficient overhead room to align the pump vertically.

One way to keep things really clean would be to mount all of the components inside of the tank with the top plate free of penetrations. Weld -6 bulkhead fittings to the front wall of the tank for fuel transfer, then use 90* fittings on the ends of your fuel attachment lines. This way the top plate can be made flush with the top of the tank, hence making for a larger fuel volume and stronger connections.

1badchevelle
07-06-2010, 07:35 AM
Rich I have two of the Russell fitting. I see you are looking for black. If you dont care I have the blue ones, they are your's just pm me your info and I will send them out. ( free is always a good thing)

I just listed them here with the part number.

https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=70179

MCMLXIX
07-07-2010, 12:46 AM
Carl: Because of the fuel sender I have (Fuel Safe capacitive rod) it needs to mount on top and needs about an inch of clearance. For that reason I will be building everything into the top plate. (except the filler neck) and recessed into the top. I'm building a huge tank that will be 13" tall and will be raising the trunk floor anyway. If I use the bent tubing I can have the connections come out past the edge of the tank to make the connections easier to access.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

On one of the other threads somone found a nice tubing to AN fitting that I will look into. Swagelok® makes a stainless -6 to 3/8" tube fitting. I hope they have 5/16 as well.

https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showpost.php?p=684815&postcount=23

1badchevelle: thanks :hail:

CarlC
07-07-2010, 08:08 AM
Where are you planning on using that compression fitting? I hope not on the plastic fuel pump outlet.

Also, I've not had good luck with the capacitive type sending units. The gauge fluctuations drive me crazy when driving the car. The stock type units that use a float bar/rheostat tend to be much better at reducing gauge fluctuations. Mine is so bad that after 3-gallons of gas has been burned off the low fuel light will illuminate and the gauge needle point almost to empty when leaving a stoplight. Adding capacitors, adjusting the trims, etc. did not help the problem. We fought this for quite a while in my friends car with a FuelSafe tank and never did get it nearly as good as a stock sending unit.

It is pretty easy to either modify a stock sending unit or use an aftermarket float bar type for your application.

MCMLXIX
07-09-2010, 10:32 PM
Where are you planning on using that compression fitting? I hope not on the plastic fuel pump outlet.

Also, I've not had good luck with the capacitive type sending units. The gauge fluctuations drive me crazy when driving the car. The stock type units that use a float bar/rheostat tend to be much better at reducing gauge fluctuations. Mine is so bad that after 3-gallons of gas has been burned off the low fuel light will illuminate and the gauge needle point almost to empty when leaving a stoplight. Adding capacitors, adjusting the trims, etc. did not help the problem. We fought this for quite a while in my friends car with a FuelSafe tank and never did get it nearly as good as a stock sending unit.

It is pretty easy to either modify a stock sending unit or use an aftermarket float bar type for your application.

I was thinking the capacitive type would be more acurate... Since it will fit in from the top I will make a "sleeve" with some holes in the bottom for it to sit in. That should keep it more accurate. (less fuel slosh) I already have it so I'll try and make it work.

The compression fitting idea was for the feed and return line on top of the tank. I guess I can just have some stainless ones welded on... I havent had a chance to look at fittings in person so I just dont know whats out there...

CarlC
07-10-2010, 06:43 AM
The sleeve will help. I've built one with a check valve and a small bleed hole near the bottom. It works much better than leaving it completely exposed. If the sleeve is closed/sealed at the top it will also need an air bleed hole near the top.