View Full Version : Royal purple
paulk68
05-13-2010, 05:39 AM
My friend who owns the local NAPA store in town had this to show me. He takes very good care of his truck and used Royal Purple UNTIL HE SAW THIS he did a little research and found this is not uncommon with royal purple has anyone else had any issues with it?
OIL PUMP PICKUP SCREEN
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=4221224&id=681481657)
Tony_SS
05-13-2010, 06:00 AM
I heard bad things too.. from someone with direct experience.
MonzaRacer
05-13-2010, 06:28 AM
Has it been identified. Worked on an Asphlund truck and they went with Royal Purple and had issues due to change length. Went to regualr oil change intervals and tada issues disappeared.
Oh yeah ever see what bearings and cylinderwalls look like with Amsoil, tons of people brag but I rebuild engines and see issues.
I use Mobil 1, Shell Rotella synthetic and Kendal synthetic with zero issues.
MarkM66
05-13-2010, 08:49 AM
How long was it in there? What kind of use? What engine? Was an analysis done? Etc.
One picture is meaningless.
RP is a fine oil, over priced IMO, but still good.
Ron.in.SoCal
05-13-2010, 08:55 AM
I heard bad things too.. from someone with direct experience.
What have you heard Tony? I have a blower motor, change the oil quite frequently, builder reccomended RP. No issues ever...
Tony_SS
05-13-2010, 09:33 AM
Guy runs a shop.. customer brought in a newly built engine to break in and wanted to use RP.. smoked and leaked horribly.. switched to a conventional and problem was solved.
AintQik
05-13-2010, 09:38 AM
You can't break an engine in with RP. Of course its going to smoke horribly. I use Rotella to break em in.
Ron.in.SoCal
05-13-2010, 09:43 AM
You can't break an engine in with RP. Of course its going to smoke horribly. I use Rotella to break em in.
Yep. No RP during break in or first oil change....rings don't seat properly.
Tony_SS
05-13-2010, 09:44 AM
Ah ok. Cant fault RP then in that case.
paulk68
05-13-2010, 12:20 PM
How long was it in there? What kind of use? What engine? Was an analysis done? Etc.
One picture is meaningless.
RP is a fine oil, over priced IMO, but still good.
Sorry my picture is meaningless. i guess it has more meaning to me than someone just saying RP is fine oil. It was his very well taken care of 08 chevy colorado daily driver that this happened to. What kind of analysis would you suggest?
I was not trying to bash RP i was just bringing up a situation that happened to someone that i know and see if anyone one else has ever had any issues with sludge buildup using RP. I know if i used it i would be pulling my oil pan and checking.
jp455
05-13-2010, 12:22 PM
I use RP on my car and can definitively say it runs smoother and quieter since I switched to it.
On the topic of oil and change intervals...I'm sorta surprised nobody here (that I have heard) uses bypass oil filters. The filtration is MUCH better and thus change intervals can be much longer. Not to mention the added protection.
John McIntire
05-13-2010, 01:15 PM
Yep. No RP during break in or first oil change....rings don't seat properly.
What about their "break in oil?" Anyone ever try that?
Tom Welch
05-13-2010, 03:45 PM
I have used RP for many years 10+ and i have never experienced any negative issues at all, I need to look into the bypass filter though, a really good idea.
jp455
05-14-2010, 12:49 AM
Theres actually not that many bypass types out there, all truck systems (mainly diesel) so its not too hard to compare.
Still curious how that sludge formed though.
LateNight72
05-14-2010, 09:35 AM
Oh yeah ever see what bearings and cylinderwalls look like with Amsoil, tons of people brag but I rebuild engines and see issues.
I use Mobil 1, Shell Rotella synthetic and Kendal synthetic with zero issues.
Any specific examples of issues that you've noticed with people running Amsoil? What series of oil were they using?
I'm not trying to defend Amsoil, but when I ran their product Heavy Duty Diesel 5w30, in my daily a gas DOHC V8, it ran the smoothest it ever has and the lifter tap was significantly diminished. After 18,000 miles, the oil looked and smelled much better than Mobil 1 at 6,000.
joemac
05-14-2010, 02:21 PM
Oil threads on online forums are always a good way to open a can of worms. There are so many brands and everyone has such a passionate opinion. I think people are more passionate about their oil choice than auto manufacturer.
Obviously you don't have to ask what I prefer and recommend. Some Dealers try to push it and ram it down your throat. All I say is that I have a good product, if you want to try it great if not I'm sure you will be happy with another brand.
To find out if that RP in question caused a problem, the used oil should be sent out for analysis and that will explain the problem. Usually operator error causes a lubrication malfunction, ie; overheated it, drain interval too long, low level, engine is worn out or not changing filters. Changing your air filter is vitally important to oil life.
Ron.in.SoCal
05-14-2010, 02:42 PM
Oil threads on online forums are always a good way to open a can of worms. There are so many brands and everyone has such a passionate opinion. I think people are more passionate about their oil choice than auto manufacturer.
Obviously you don't have to ask what I prefer and recommend. Some Dealers try to push it and ram it down your throat. All I say is that I have a good product, if you want to try it great if not I'm sure you will be happy with another brand.
To find out if that RP in question caused a problem, the used oil should be sent out for analysis and that will explain the problem. Usually operator error causes a lubrication malfunction, ie; overheated it, drain interval too long, low level, engine is worn out or not changing filters. Changing your air filter is vitally important to oil life.
Glad you said that first Joe! It looks like oil from a combo blown head gasket/overheating problem to me. Just an observation, so nobody take offense...:enguard:
H2Ogbodies
05-19-2010, 07:56 PM
Two biggest things to judge an oil by no matter who makes it is rate of evaporation and film strength imo. Those are the biggies. Amsoil rates at the top by just barely below them is Mobil1 and for the money, you can't beat it. I know a lot of little sale secrets that the Amsoil guys use from me being a dealer myself and trust me, Amsoil is at least judging by what I know of their claims, is the best oil hands down. I use their oil filtration systems and they are pretty nice-not cheap but then anything worth the money never is. Lastly, engine condition is also vital to allowing the oil to vastly extend the life of an engine. You can't expect a turd motor to get a new lease on life by switching oil but a normally healthy engien can take a LOT of abuse with a quality synthetic oil.
MonzaRacer
05-20-2010, 08:56 PM
Hey Joe, as a technician who has built literally hundreds if not thousands of engines (I dont keep count sooo) and I can tell you for one that from my experience I wouldn't oil a chain with Amsoil and I can tell you that after seeing a car that had methodical care taken of it on both engines, while working at a dealership, we had a gentleman who put a lot of miles on his car, so he got sold on Amsoil, he changed early(by Amsoil dealers recommendations) but still did analysis on his oil, all with no issues expressed by testing company (one recommended by Amsoil) and at 53k we pulled out an engine and it had a completely trashed bottom end and extreme cylinder wear. Now I rode around with this guy, he didnt even drive as hard as I do.
so this engine gets warranty replacement and old engine is sent back for checking.
Well 31,xxx later he brings same car in and the engine is HAMMERING and the bearings are wiped out, and cylinder walls trashed.
Ok so you will say its driver error, uh no, as I rebuilt this engine as the manufacturer dropped it like hot potato and told him if he had used "that" oil it had zero warranty.
Now I rebuilt it, fully blueprinted it heck we even balanced it and added a small cam from performance car of same brand. He switched to different brand of synthetic and guess what, 234k miles later he totaled it with same engine, pulled it out, we freshened it up and his son is driving it. I still have the old bearings and the 234k miles bearings in a box somewhere to bear out my point.
I have seen numerous claims from lots of companies but this one and the ones I have seen from RP make me decide to use something else.
I have had guys racing with Rotella 5w40 synthetic, Ford 5w40 synthetic, and heck I have ran 2 engines on 5w30 or 40 Kendal full synthetic, and gotten awesome results with no issues.
But to anyone out there use what you want and if you have good luck so be it.
I just go on the evidence I have collected my self.
Sorry.
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