Hard line flaring 5/8?

[Syclone892]

So heres my problem :)

I am redoing the fuel system on my Syclone. I will be running a sumped tank, a1000 pump, aeromotive pre/post filters, aeromotive reg after second filter short return line, to a y-block to each rail with a crossover line to each rail.

I am going to rip out all the crappy braided line thanks to what I have heard about it on hear along with a bad experience with it. I planned on replacing it with the teflon lined hose till I saw how extremely expensive it was so now I think the plan is to use stainless hard line with teflon lined short hoses at the tank and engine.

My problem I have is I have -8 and -10 lines. -10 from tank to pump to y-block with-8 to each rail.
I planned on just buying the mastercool kit with the 37 degree flare add on kit. I can justify the cost of the tool because it wouldn't be a one time use tool you know. I then read that the tool only goes to 1/2.

How are you guys flaring hard line in 5/8? I was planning on getting the aluminum line from mcmaster carr but I found stainless hard line for $3 a ft locally and I can get it in ten ft sections which should be perfect for my truck. It is 304 fully annealed in .035 wall which from what I have read is whats recommended right?

I have found some 37 degree flaring tools in the $130 range but that would make it a one time use tool. I don't like the idea of using those hard line adaptor fittings because I don't trust them for high pressure.

Here is the specs on the truck '91 gmc syclone, 4.3 v6 built engine, t-72 single turbo, 75# injectors, base fuel pressure roughly 50# possibly running up to 30 psi boost, a similar build made 600hp and 800 tq
http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=64336
I do plan on making more power later on too :)

Thanks for all the help!

[Kenova]

I have a Ridgid Model 377 . It can handle 37 degree flares from 3/16" up to 3/4". Bought mine at Home Depot for less than a hundred.
Best damn flaring tool I've used (so far)

Ken

[64duece]

You don't need 5/8 line for your application. 8AN (1/2) is more than adequate.

[Jim Nilsen]

Go through the threads and find the one that has the configuration that puts the return near the tank instead of the big loop and you will have found all of the info you need.

You are going in the right direction and with just a bit more of the right info you will be where you want. It is all here and the new way of doing the systems works well. Others may say something else but I have been down the long road and have had success.

Goodluck and if you are worried about buying a tool to do the job you can rent one or buy one and then sell it here to someone else who needs one, there is always someone here looking to buy one and the more it gets passed around the cheaper it should get.

[gkring]

When I did mine I had male ends brazed to each end of the stainless line. That allowed me to have normal swivel female hose ends instead of having to have an additional union. Cheaper and one less place to leak. Inplaces I needed a large flare I let my local industrial hose supply shop handle it. It was really easy to bend my lines in cheap aluminumon the car at home and take those to have duplicated, brazed, and flared in stainless. Look in the phone book under industrial hose supply shops, like for machinery and forklifts.

[1969CamaroRS]

I have a Ridgid Model 377 . It can handle 37 degree flares from 3/16" up to 3/4". Bought mine at Home Depot for less than a hundred.
Best damn flaring tool I've used (so far)

Ken

x2 on the Rigid Model 377 what I used on my flares on my 5/8ths stainless:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/FuelSystem005-1.jpg

[Syclone892]

Thanks for all the suggestions :)

I decided to go with 1/2 feed and return line, I will be mounting the reg in the back so there will be a short return line.

I am waiting to hear from a buddy on how much he can get the mastercool set for so I should be ordering that in the next couple days. I figure I will get the mastercool kit as I will be able to use it for more than just this one thing as the other adapters that it comes with will come in handy at work quite a bit. One of those tools I have lived without for too long :) Ordered up the tube from my local parker store my work deals with so that will take a couple days. Ordered some 1/4 also might try replacing the vac lines also :)

Next question do I use stainless nuts and sleeves or aluminum? I would like to use stainless so it all looks uniform but have heard about how its harder to get to seal. I will probably buy some of those flare savers to help with leakage just in case. We also have some really good sealant at work for hydraulic lines so I am going to see if that would work also, just in case.

What is everyone using to cut the tubing? I have read that you do not use a tubing cutter, should I get a nice fine teeth hacksaw blade? I read something about using a file on the outside to round the edge of the pipe. I was thinking of getting one of those pipe reamers does anyone hear use those?

Thanks for all the comments I can't wait to start this new project and hopefully get this thing running again soon!

[MonzaRacer]

You can get the complete Mastercool kit off amazon and other for around $300 or here on ebay for $319 shipped http://cgi.ebay.com/Mastercool-71475-Universal-Hydraulic-Flaring-Tool-Set-/230435043952?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35a6ffba70

And for $310.95 on Amazon and $97.95 for 37 degree add on kit