R/R engine, now it won't start.

[megaladon6]

the car ran fine then i had to pull it to check the bearings. i changed the bearings, oil pump, and oil pan seal.
when i got everything back together and primed the engine it fired right up and ran for a few seconds. that surprised me so much i turned it off (whoops!) but after then it won't fire. when i first turn the key it fires and almost starts. but after a very short time it stops firing. it gets so bad that it won't do anything, even on starting fluid.
i've played with the timing, reversed the distributor (caused backfiring so i set it back), lowered the float (q-jet), tested the compression (150psi), have spark at the plugs.
i'm out of ideas of what to test. any and all advice is really appreciated.

[MrQuick]

pull the plugs and see how they look.

[JEFFTATE]

You may have fouled the plugs OR .... the ignition timing may be way out ..

Is the needle and seat stuck open on the Quadrjet , causing it to flood and foul the plugs ???

[mc84_zz4]

If you have spark, I'd put money on the timing being way off too.

[megaladon6]

the plugs don't LOOK fouled. they are black but not wet and they do have spark. they did get wet with fuel at at least one point during this. they're NGK platinums if it matters. could they still be bad?
i have set the timing a few times and it keeps coming up at the same point. but if it is the timing, could that start out firing, and then die off? or is that just from the plugs getting wet?
i'm pretty sure the needle's OK, the bowl was filled when i reset the float level and the float free floating. (sorry, i'm not too familiar with carbs yet, so i'm guessing at how the internals should be) BTW the carb was rebuilt about a year ago and ran fine till now.
thanks!

[98ssnova]

Two things come to mind because I have done them before
1 make sure you have the wires in the right posititons on the caps and plugs.
2 Are you sure the your #1 pistion was at TDC when you dropped your distrubitior in?
Hope this helps

[paul67]

For some reson if you foul the plugs even if they spark they fail under compression ,also take air filter off a chuck a 1/2 cup of gas down carb if it fires and revs up its a fuel problem.

[MrQuick]

yeah, plats don't like being fouled. Don't even bother cleaning them. I have seen guys try for hours just find out new plugs did the trick. You can try to reinstall them after its running to see if they will come back but not while you are trying to diagnose a no start.

I'd pull them, put a new set in. Set the crank to TDC #1 verify by watching the valves. Then back it up and put the crank to 12 degrees BTDC then set the distributer to get rotor right at #1. I find this easier cause its less likely to mess up and go retarded.
If the carb is even questionable I sometimes clamp the feed to the pump and run it on starter fluid or a bit of fuel down the carb.

good luck, I know this can be a pain sometimes.

Vince

[megaladon6]

i'll definitely try the plugs.
i haven't clamped off the fuel line, but i did try starting fluid w/out pumping the gas or cranking the engine. and the car takes a little bit to get fuel pressure, so it shouldn't have been getting too much fuel, at least at first. but i'll try that too.
wires/firing order has been double/triple/quadruple........checked :) i always mix up 5 and 7 so i got used to making sure. :hand:
also tried raw fresh fuel down the carb, no difference.
looks like i'm gonna clamp the fuel line, pull the valve cover and check timing, swap the plugs, and pray like hell!
thanks for the advice guys. i'll let y'all know how it turns out this weekend (but don't let that stop any more thoughts!) lol

[JEFFTATE]

Be careful dumping raw fuel down the carb !!
If the timing is off , you could have a backfire and cause a fire !!

You can just clean the plugs..
There's no need to throw them away..

Pull the drivers side valve cover .
Rotate the engine clockwise until the #1 piston is at TDC and both valves for that cylinder are closed.
This will be TDC on the compression stroke , NOT on the exhaust stroke..
Remember : Intake /Compression / Power /Exhaust
The intake valve will have closed and you rotate the engine clockwise until the piston gets to TDC .

Then make sure the ignition rotor is pointing towards the #1 terminal on the distributor cap.
( You can even stop the engine rotation at 10' before TDC . Then adjust the distributor so the ignition rotor lines exactly up with #1 terminal on the cap. )
( Then you'll be at 10' before TDC )

[MonzaRacer]

heck if you got a propane torch simply get them good and hot, I even let the negative electrode get good and cherry red(if you saw how hot they really get you would understand why its not that hard on them.
Burn all the gas out of them and try again, put them in hot of you can even

[John Wright]

If you're unsure about the timing...put the timing light on number one and get somebody to turn the motor over while you watch the timing tab/balancer.

some emory cloth can shine up the plugs pretty quick, then check or reset the gaps

[megaladon6]

well i know it's been awhile, between bad weather and just pure laziness i wasn't able to really get to the car. (god i miss having a garage) but the good news is that i got her running.
lowered the float, used a mapp gas torch on the plugs (they were black, but more of a carbon than oil and just a basic even layer) (BTW thanks monza!) and regapped them. honestly i think that was the main problem. i didn't check where they started but i put them to about 38 and there was PLENTY of room before that. i'm guessing at least 50, how they got there i don't know.
sprayed a bit of ether in and she started right up! even ran decent. and she restarts evenly.
still have to tune 'er but at least i got somewhere.
thanks for all the help!
Nick