electric-life power windows

[TERMN8OR]

Why are my new electric-life power window motors so slow going up ?
Is anyone else running these and having this problem ?

[67 455 Bird ragtop]

Why are my new electric-life power window motors so slow going up ?
Is anyone else running these and having this problem ?

Where are you drawing your current from?? I've talked to a few first gen owners who use these windows and have the same issue. Most tested the voltage at the motors and found it to be well below 12 or 14 volts. They switched to relays and/or took the current directly from the battery or the alternator. Some also took it from the main buss at the horn relay. Just check to make sure you have full voltage.

You can also get some good tips/ideas by visiting MAD electricals site and reaading there tech articles. Lots of good information for older cars like ours. The original wiring harnesses weren't designed for some of the more modern electrical items.

www.madelectrical.com

[TERMN8OR]

I will check that.. I have a painless harness and it's hooked up to the power window circuit that was provided. I will check out the voltage.

[Mkelcy]

I agree. While installing my windows and the Electric Life power lifts in my '68 project, I used a battery and about 5' of wire to power the window switch. I was impressed with how quickly they ran up and down. If they are slower when finally wired through the very long and not very large gauge Electric Life harness, I'll have a good idea why.

[ErikLS2]

A very easy to do voltage drop test will tell you what's going on. Here's what you do, get a volt meter and attach one lead to the positive terminal of the battery and the other to the power supply (in) wire to the window motor. Then, while operating the window, read the voltage. This will show how much voltage is being lost (drop) between the battery and the motor due to either high resistance or more likely insufficient supply wire size.

You should have a reading of 0.2 or 0.3 volts. Anything close to or more than 1 volt and you have found the problem. You must also test the ground side of the circuit using the same method, from the output of the motor to battery neg. It's important that the volt meter leads do not span across the load, your test leads must remain on either the ground side or power side of the circuit. Also make sure that the meter is being read while the window motor is in operation. The test will tell you nothing if the motor is sitting idle. This test is different from an available voltage test to the motor which doesn't tell you much other than how much voltage you have available to the motor.

A voltage drop test is measuring how much voltage is being used up to get the amps/current to the load. Any resistance in the circuit due to corroded or loose connections or too small a wire size will eat up some of the battery voltage before it ever gets to the device it's supposed to operate, thereby causing that device to operate slower or with less force.

[The WidowMaker]

the harness is one reason, but i went with the nu-relics from mike at musclerodz to avoid any issues.

[DynoDon]

Check your ground as well, They can be sensitive to a good strong ground