Underbody problems !!!

[Olav]

When I started on my car I sand blastered it, zink, primer and black epoxy paint. Now the epoxy is peeling of so I have to blast it again to get it clean. I started grinding but i will not get the result I want and there are some reallly difficult areas to reach without removing suspension, brake lines and sub frame. Anyway I will make a rotiresse blast it again....

Have anyone used Eastwood chassisblack or is it better to use gloss paint. I heard that POR15 is better suited for "rusted"/ corroded underbodys.

Cleaning and repairing the damaged areas is no option or using underbody coating to cover the repairs...

What have you used ?

Olav

[Denvervet]

Epoxy sticks like crazy so must be something it is over that is coming off under it. You mentioned zinc primer then epoxy. Did you do that? If so, that's a problem. bummer either way for you.Good luck

[Olav]

Taken the rear suspension off and sub frame. Made a frame for the body so it will be easy to work with.

[elitecustombody]

Blast,etch primer and or epoxy primer

[rrstroker71]

Blast, epoxy prime with a good primer, BASF, PPG DP or equal. Epoxy or etch stick very good so either it was not preped right or thier was another material between the the metal and primer.

[Olav]

I will use this epoxy. http://eng.hagmans.com/produktinfo/p...lska/11160.pdf

And semigloss top coat, the painter I'm gona use for the outside body told me to use " truckpaint". They use it on trucks and it's more durable and don't chips easy


The problem is between the Zink primer and primer. I think if i had used wash primer/ etch primer over the Zink this would not happend. Anyway its to late now.....

[rusty428cj]

All you need to use is SPI black epoxy www.southernpolyurethanes.com (http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com)

[Olav]

513865138751388Finally blastered. I work at a ship yard ( www.gmc.no ) and the company next door is building steel constructions for offshore oil industry. They have a good blastring and painting shop that we also use. I asked them to do this job for me. No problem!!!

[MIKE67]

That is so nice having access to a great sandblasting room with downdraft floor! I hand sanded my floor with the back end hung from an A-frame engine hoist.

[Olav]

Turned out very well. The guy who did it had been sandblasting for many years. But not on cars, mostly offshore constructions, so he was very provd of this job. With no warping of panels or so. He used fine grit and low pressure.

Yesterday it was primed with Zink



When I blastered the body my self first time it was in a old workshop and sand/ grit all over the floor. And body on 2 supports so I had to blast everything from the underside. That time it was completly covered with thick undercoat and rust. When you blast the coating it melts and everything becomes a mess. Ohh! I hate it....

.

[Olav]

Finally in primer and back at the machine shop at my work.51491

[64impala]

I used KBS Rust Seal. Had great results. Then I coated over that with Monstiliner Bed Coating. Good luck

[scotzilla]

ppg dp - the only way to go!

[scotzilla]

then take it to linex and do this

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/IMG_1273-2.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/IMG_1271-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/20111128095434-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/20110817105059-1.jpg

[Olav]

56181Well after 2 coats of epoxy acid/ wash primer, body shutz in rear wheel housings and rear panel. 2 coats of 2K 50% gloss "truck paint" . Hopefully it will last longer this time. Time to bring the car home from work. Since I have got a new job i probably have to do it anyway....

[grenade inspector]

I didnt think you were supposed to paint over zinc primer, I thought that was for inside panels being welded together etc where you dont want rust but cant get after assembly.