pro-touring '68 firebird...on a budget

[68firebird]

What's up everyone? I've actually been a member of the forum for a while now, but I had taken quite a few years off from building the car. Its been sitting under a car cover in the garage as my wife was using it as a shelf. Just this past week I removed all the wifes crap, pulled back the cover, and finished removing the front suspension. I couldn't be more excited to try and get this done for next years cruise nights and what not. I've got a budget of course, and its a relatively low one at this point. I've got some parts already waiting to be installed (hotchkis 2 inch drop springs, hotchkis/bilstein shocks, global west subframe connectors, global west solid body mounts, front end rebuild kit, and a hotchkis front sway bar on the way) As of right now tubular control arms aren't in my budget, so I removed the stockers and I'm having a buddy at work sandblast the 40 years of crap off of them. mostly everything else up front will be replaced with new parts. I also don't have the room to pull the engine and subframe out, I've got a pretty small garage, so I'm actually cleaning the subframe up while its on the car, then I'll just tape everything off and prime/paint it that way, gotta work with what I have!!! I've got a long way to go, but I'll keep updating this thread with pics and let you guys know how I'm doing on the budget.

this is what it went in hibernation looking like
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/idriversside2-1.jpg
cover pulled back for the first time in about 4 years!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/firebird2-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/firebird1-1.jpg
drivers side control arms off, alot of cleaning to do to thesubframe
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/firebird3-1.jpg
Off to the sandblaster!!!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/firebird4-1.jpg

More to come..................

[rohrt]

Nice looking car.

[67rstbkt]

Very nice, I'm looking forward to seeing your progress

[68Formula]

Guldstrand mod is free.

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0607phr_car_handling_tech/index.html

http://image.popularhotrodding.com/f/9105385/0607phr_09z+car_handling_tech+.jpg

[68firebird]

68 formula, I actually have that template! I called guldstrand years back and got it. That's another mod to be done!

[steve g]

Good luck with the bird. Looks like she's in pretty good shape to start with.

[rickpaw]

Cool. Another bird on this forum. Looks like the car is in great shape to start with.

[BirdsThaWord]

Nice Bird! Can't wait to see what all you do with it.

[Rod]

welcome BACK!!! love that early bird!
keep the lower control arms and put either poly bushings or the global west Del-a-lum sets, and do a Guldstrand mod on the top its free and works well and the later get some global west tube upper arms and your good! and rockin the budget!

[CruizinKev]

looking good!

[68firebird]

welcome BACK!!! love that early bird!
keep the lower control arms and put either poly bushings or the global west Del-a-lum sets, and do a Guldstrand mod on the top its free and works well and the later get some global west tube upper arms and your good! and rockin the budget!

Yup, I've got poly bushings going in. I do have one question, should I get the offset shafts for the upper arms or just clean up the stockers and use those? I'm not sure if the offsets make much of a difference, especially after doing the guldstrand mod.

[68Formula]

Yup, I've got poly bushings going in. I do have one question, should I get the offset shafts for the upper arms or just clean up the stockers and use those? I'm not sure if the offsets make much of a difference, especially after doing the guldstrand mod.

Definitely go offset shafts or you're going to be shimming the heck out of the arms to get a minimum static camber. I can't believe how many shims it took just to get -1° static camber. Makes me a little nervous having all those in there.

[Steve Firebird]

More Firebirds on here every week it seems. I like it! Car looks nice good luck with the mods.

[68firebird]

Ok, just a couple of minor updates. Got the old bushings and ball joints out of the drivers side control arms today at work, and the control arms are just about done being sandblasted (got a buddy at work doing the blasting for me). I'll probably have those back before the weekend to get them primed and painted. Tonight I started cleaning up the subframe of all the grease and grime, much more cleaning needed. I wish I could pull the motor out and the front clip off to take the subframe out and be able to clean it better, I just don't have the room!!! oh well, I'll just have to spend a bit more time and effort to make sure its really cleaned well. Man I wish I had more time to work on this on a daily basis.

[Tuske427]

Awesome! Thank you for sharing this

[68firebird]

small update: drivers side control arms and both steering arms are blasted, primed and painted, now on to the passenger side control arms...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/controlarmspainted-1.jpg

[68400BIRD]

Keep up the great work. I would also go with the offset upper shafts. It will help a lot when it comes to shimming.

[David Sloan]

Looking good !
Thanks for sharing.

[94SNGLTURBO]

looks good.. im trying to talk my buddy into starting his dads 69 bird that has been siting 10 years or so..

[Dons67]

keep it up - looking good

[68firebird]

Small update:

I was having a hell of a time pressing in the lower control arm bushings using the manual press at work, and I was afraid I was gonna damage the arms, so I dropped them off at my mechanic and he pressed them in the right way for 30 bucks. So the lower control arms are assembled and ready to go. I just got the offset shafts in today for the uppers, so I'll most likely be on the safe side and drop them off and have him press those in too. I'm also still cleaning up the subframe the best I can while its on the car, and most likely the next step will be the G-mod. more to come............

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/controlarms-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[68firebird]

Dropped the upper arms off today for the bushings to be pressed in, those are now done. Again, well worth the $30 to have these pushed in.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/upper-1.jpg

Starting on doing the Guldstrand mod tonight. When I'm done drilling the holes and cutting the old holes out for arm clearance, I'll be finishing up cleaning the frame and the plan is then to put POR-15 on it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/gmod-1.jpg

and finally, just a shot of the engine, nothing special, just your plain ole SBC.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/engine-2.jpg

[steve g]

Now you just need to replace that sbc with a 455 poncho.

[68firebird]

Now you just need to replace that sbc with a 455 poncho.

hahaha, I knew someone was eventually going to say that. Its not my fault though, previous owner had this in, this is originally a straight six car.

[NYTRANSAM]

More Firebirds on here every week it seems. I like it! Car looks nice good luck with the mods.
Im restoring a 68 firebird too. Just not picture worthy yet. as more progress is made then ill start a thread.

[69fbodyproject]

ive got a few 455 blocks kicking around, i could let one go for a decent price, just not my SD block.

[68firebird]

started the guldstrand mod this weekend on the drivers side. I have to say, I was actually very nervous to do this since I would be cutting away the stock holes, but I feel a bit more confident after what I've done so far.

template cut out and put in place
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/gmod-1.jpg
new holes drilled with studs in, checking to see what needs to be cut
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/4-1.jpg
stock holes cut out for clearance of upper arm, still need to grind it to make it look all purty
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/3-1.jpg
also have to grind down a small area of the rear of the upper arm for clearance
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/1-1.jpg

well, that's it for tonight, more to come.....

[bonecrrusher]

More info on gulstrand mod?

[68Formula]

More info on gulstrand mod?

Click on the first link of page 1, post 4.

[Steve Firebird]

Cool looking forward to it.

Im restoring a 68 firebird too. Just not picture worthy yet. as more progress is made then ill start a thread.

[68firebird]

I ordered a hotchkis sway bar 2 weeks ago from Never enough auto cause they had a good price on it, and the damn thing isn't shipping from hotchkis until next friday!!! Not that I'm even ready for it yet, just saying. When I ordered my subframe connectors from global west it was the same thing, seems like most of these places either sell out of their product really quick or they make it as its ordered.

anywho, went out and got some flap discs for the angle grinder and its cleaning up the frame much better than my previous assorted methods, this is actually getting to the metal. Tonight I ordered some chassis black primer and chassis black paint from eastwood. I've decided to go that route instead of the POR-15. small progress in small increments right now, but I'm finishing my basement at the same time, and as far as my wife is concerned the basement is what should take priority, LOL.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/securedownload-1.jpg

[Tom Welch]

Looking good, and glad to see more firebirds on the site.

[68firebird]

Got the front clip all masked up today, just gotta cover the hood now, I ran out of tape. also started grinding the passengers side of the frame. Getting ready for when the paint arrives this week. still have to do the Gmod on the passengers side.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/12-2.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/11-2.jpg

[69lsxamx]

Your car looks great. it's good to see a first gen. firebird. I get tired of seeing the first gen camaro's. I dont think the firebirds get the attention that they deserve. Good luck with your build.

[68firebird]

Painted the engine side of the fenderwells today. They were really dull looking.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/fenderwell2-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/fenderwell-1.jpg

Also ordered some not so fun stuff but very necessary stuff today:

- UMI performance tie rod sleeves from Summit
- front shock bolts, upper shaft to frame bolts, and lower arm bolts and nuts from ames performance, $68 on nuts and bolts, plus shipping of course :rolleyes:

[Dons67]

Painted the engine side of the fenderwells today. They were really dull looking.




Also ordered some not so fun stuff but very necessary stuff today:

- UMI performance tie rod sleeves from Summit
- front shock bolts, upper shaft to frame bolts, and lower arm bolts and nuts from ames performance, $68 on nuts and bolts, plus shipping of course :rolleyes:

Car is coming along NICE -- Look around for a local hardware store - I have learned to save extra coin by stopping by the local hardware. We have Tractor Supply stores and also SECORE Lumber - both have very nice supply of stainless and grade 8 bolts and nuts - my last deal was stainless bolts for my rear diff $7.32 out the door (Summit or Jeg's was around $20 plus shipping and waiting)

[68firebird]

Car is coming along NICE -- Look around for a local hardware store - I have learned to save extra coin by stopping by the local hardware. We have Tractor Supply stores and also SECORE Lumber - both have very nice supply of stainless and grade 8 bolts and nuts - my last deal was stainless bolts for my rear diff $7.32 out the door (Summit or Jeg's was around $20 plus shipping and waiting)

thanks Don, and thanks for the tip! there is at least one mom and pop hardware store that I can think of, I'll have to give them a try when I need new nuts and bolts. I've tried both home depot and lowes and for the most part they suck for that stuff.

[68firebird]

small update:
Guldstrand mods are complete, frame cleaning about 95% complete, probably get that finished tomorrow. Chassis primer and paint comes in tomorrow from eastwood and all the bolts I ordered from Ames performance comes in tomorrow also. I'm so close to puttin the front back together I can smell it.

[DippedInSauce]

crispy new bolts are always nice! i dont know if u have osh or ace hardware stores on the east coast but they have super reasonably priced fastener selections for other odds and ends on ur project. (stainless grade 8 zinc etc). I've spent lots of time sourcing them for my bird.

[zamora7]

Wow, looking good! I need to start doing that to my 2nd gen T/A.

How in the world were you able to have that beauty in the garage for 4 years and not drive it? Sounds like torture to me, lol.

[68firebird]

Wow, looking good! I need to start doing that to my 2nd gen T/A.

How in the world were you able to have that beauty in the garage for 4 years and not drive it? Sounds like torture to me, lol.

hahaha, I had no choice, when I put it in the garage 4 years ago I pulled the front tires and the brakes off, then proceeded to start taking the control arms off. shortly thereafter is when I put it on pause. yes, torture it was.

Got an update this morning that my sway bar has finally shipped from hotchkis. wooo hooo. primed a small area of the frame last night with the eastwood chassis primer just to see, and what a difference, can't wait to put the actual satin chassis paint on. oh, and my bolts came in from ames. Both ames performance and eastwood had extremely fast shipping!!!!

[68firebird]

I'd like to apologize for the crappy cell phone pics, but its the easiest way to get photos up at the moment.

So I started painting the subframe this week. I'm glad I got the eastwood chassis primer and paint, It seems to be quite durable, we'll see when I start putting the suspension back on.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/painted-1.jpg

Also got my new umi performance tie rod sleeves in, so I threw those together tonight.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/tierod-1.jpg

[SPECTACULAR]

Yeah......looking good.

[Andrew McBride]

Nice progress!

[Dons67]

looking good - keep up the pace, I'd hate to see you wait another 4 years to drive that animal

[medhat68]

I have not browsed in Protouring for a long time but when I saw your work on your white 68, I could not resist a post. Very nice. I am just on the home stretch of my restoration of my white 68 Bird. Maybe some of the stuff I have done might help you. I built on a budget in my own garage as well. I will check back on your progress from time to time.
http://www3.telus.net/public/68bird/
Kelly

[68firebird]

I have not browsed in Protouring for a long time but when I saw your work on your white 68, I could not resist a post. Very nice. I am Ojust on the home stretch of my restoration of my white 68 Bird. Maybe some of the stuff I have done might help you. I built on a budget in my own garage as well. I will check back on your progress from time to time.
http://www3.telus.net/public/68bird/
Kelly

Hi Kelly, thanks for posting. I checked out your site, i'll have to look at it more when I have time. Looks like your car started out in real good shape too. I'm trying to post a bunch of pics up as I go along whether it's major news or not. This is my first build of any type and I'm learning alot as I go along.

latest update, I've finished painting the frame (and the control arms, I touched them up with the Eastwood chassis paint)and will start putting the suspension back in this week

[medhat68]

yeah,the body was in good shape on the outside, but that was about it. It had no motor, a T350 tranny, non-posi 2:56 rear, 4 wheel drums, rust in the kick pan area, and a rough interior. Now it's got a 462, muncie 4 speed, 4 wheel power discs, soundproofed and detailed interior, sound system and finished trunk area, detailed engine bay, and no rust anywhere... I fugure about 2 more months and it will be pretty nuch done.
Kelly

[68firebird]

yeah,the body was in good shape on the outside, but that was about it. It had no motor, a T350 tranny, non-posi 2:56 rear, 4 wheel drums, rust in the kick pan area, and a rough interior. Now it's got a 462, muncie 4 speed, 4 wheel power discs, soundproofed and detailed interior, sound system and finished trunk area, detailed engine bay, and no rust anywhere... I fugure about 2 more months and it will be pretty nuch done.
Kelly

you're lucky, LOL, If I had been working on it over the last 4 years it sat dormant I think mine would have been done too, but I had kids instead, hahaha. I think I've got the same rear in mine, which obviously will be changed. It did have 4 wheel drums and that's getting changed too. keep checkin back, I'll have more updates. Like I said, I'll post up a couple time a week with pics if I have any.

[68firebird]

Started putting the suspension back in tonight, got the control arms on both sides installed :headbang: Hotchkis sway bar should be arriving tomorrow. Gotta buy brakes very soon to tie this front end up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/reassembly-1.jpg

[68firebird]

Hotchkis sway bar finally arrived today, I installed it (after I went to my local gm restoration shop to get the sway bar bushing bolts which I had tossed, thought this came with new bolts), then I just mocked it up on the endlinks for pics. this thing is huge, way bigger than the stock piece.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/swaybar-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/swaybar2-1.jpg

[68firebird]

Tonight I put on the centerlink, tie rods and sleeves, and the steering arms, loosely, but they are in place. Now I'm pretty much in a holding pattern waiting to order my brakes to button the suspension up. Hopefully be ordering the brakes by next week.

so I will turn my attention to the interior until then. Here's a couple pics of how I left it 4 years ago. I'm changing the interior over from aqua to black. i had primed and sprayed that special GM interior paint on most of the interior pieces to change it over, and I started putting the new carpet on the bottom of the door panels. I also traded out my aqua seats for black ones, but I think I'm going to go with some nice racing seats for the front and keep the stock back seat.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/int-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/doorpanel-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/backseat-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/dash-1.jpg

[4spdharry]

Nice. Will handle well with those mods

When do the speed mods come in? :)
I'm trying to refrain from scrunching my nose at the chebby

[68firebird]

Nice. Will handle well with those mods

When do the speed mods come in? :)
I'm trying to refrain from scrunching my nose at the chebby

I know, alot of pontiac fans don't like the chevy in there. I'm focused on getting this thing to handle and stop right now. I'm hoping one day down the line to put one of the LS motors in.

[Tucks69]

Cool Build Thread!

[68firebird]

Well, I changed my mind with what brakes I'm going with. I was gonna get a complete kit, new spindles, single piston calipers, 11 inch rotors, etc..., but I've decided to go with LS1 brakes off a camaro. I figure it'll be easier to replace pads or rotors in the future this way, as well as it'll stop better with 2 piston calipers. I bought a used set of complete calipers tonight off a fellow forum member for a good price. so I guess you can say that its an official move at this point, LOL. can't get the pic bigger with it pixelating too much.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/tn1-1.jpg

and here's the conversion kit that I'll be buying to do it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/BC2QWkKGrHgoHEEjlLlyKFGBKpZgS8lLQ_3JPG-1.jpg

So I've already blasted, primed and painted the drivers side spindle, I'll do the passengers side tomorrow, and I've looked into a machine shop to turn the hubs a bit so the LS1 rotors will fit over it.

[rickpaw]

Rene,
Before you have the shop turn down the Pontiac hubs, check out this thread. There are differences between the camaro hubs and pontiac hubs

https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67803

[rickpaw]

Also, the rear grease seal for the hub is different between the camaro and firebird hubs. At least on my 67 Firebird. I ended up buying a used set of camaro drum hubs from ebay.

[Tucks69]

Looks like the conversion kit pictured above has a spacer to space the rotor out. If you need camaro hubs i have a couple sets.

[68firebird]

Rene,
Before you have the shop turn down the Pontiac hubs, check out this thread. There are differences between the camaro hubs and pontiac hubs

https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67803


yea, I'll wait until I get the kit, calipers and rotors before I have the shop do anything. I was keeping an eye on that thread already. I sent an email to the guy that sells the kit and he says it will work on the bird, we'll see how well it works.

[68firebird]

Looks like the conversion kit pictured above has a spacer to space the rotor out. If you need camaro hubs i have a couple sets.

Awesome, thank you michael!

[Tucks69]

Awesome, thank you michael!

No problem just let me know. You need to get the Bird together and come join us in Pigeon Forge for the RTTH!

[68firebird]

No problem just let me know. You need to get the Bird together and come join us in Pigeon Forge for the RTTH!

damn I'd love to get down for that, sounds awesome! My goal to get the car done was actually that weekend, If not done, at least driveable. there is a huge all pontiac car show here in RI that weekend, but now that I went and decided to get larger brakes I set myself farther back, cause now I need to get bigger wheels, its like a domino effect.

[68firebird]

ive got a nice pontiac 400 to replace that chivvvy lol nice car though

but then I'd have to get new hotchkis springs, mine are for a small block, hahaha.

[68firebird]

Ok, its a lame update but, I'm bored. I'm waiting for the calipers and the LS1 conversion kit, both should be in by the end of the week. I'll pick up some rotors once they come and and hopefully have that all installed by next week sometime. so in the meantime I finished putting the carpet on the drivers door panel, and had all intentions on finishing the other but then I shifted gears. After kneeling down to see what I have to look forward to with the rusty rear, I noticed that the rear bumper was sitting about 1/2 inch or so from the body on the drivers side and was practically right up to the body. Soooooo, I pulled the bumper off tonight to fix this problem, and while I did that I realized that the quarter panels had been replaced by the previous owner. From what I've seen, it looks like it was done the right way. anyway, I've got way to many things started, I've got to finish something, LOL. Here's a shot of the back with the bumper off, the pic is crappy, I've got terrible lighting in the garage..I'm going to take some better pics with a real camera sometime this week.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/bumper-1.jpg

[Dons67]

I really love the tail on the old birds -- project is coming along nice -- keep up the good work - you'll get there

[68firebird]

I hear ya Don, I'm a big fan too, but I'm a bit biased, LOL

some minor updates:

Got the bumper back on yesterday with new bolts and all, got it lined up better than it was. I do have a question, Does anyone know how to put those springs or whatever they're called that keeps the trunk open in place? I can't figure it out, and it was proving to be extremely difficult.

Got my calipers in today (thanks Ed!), Started cleaning them up, and will finish that tonight. After work I stopped and ordered some rotors from pepboys cause they didn't have the better quality solid rotors in stock. I'm holding off on the drilled/slotted rotors for now, I don't plan on doing any extremely aggressive driving just yet, and I'm sure even with the solid rotors these suckers will stop wayyyy better than the drums did. I'll pick the rotors up tomorrow afternoon, then I've got to get to the machine shop by 5 p.m. with a rotor and the hubs to get the hubs machined down. The conversion kit is arriving on Monday, can't wait!!!!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/calipers-1.jpg

[steve g]

You can keep your hotchkis springs. ; ) The small block ones would be fine with a Pontiac because it's not as heavy as a big block chevy. I made the mistake of going with the big block springs with my 400 and they're a little too stiff. Should have gone with the small block version.

[68firebird]

couple minor updates again. Picked my rotors up today, I honestly can't believe how big these LS1 brakes are, I love it hahahaha.They are prostop platinums, solid rotors. Here's a pic of one, the other is at the machine shop with the hubs, I was told I'll get the hubs back next week.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/rotor-1.jpg

and also picked up some caliper paint and painted the calipers red. Thats probably all I'll be able to get done till next week when I get the hubs back and the conversion kit is in. I might pick up some ceramic pads and new caliper hardware this weekend.



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/redcalipers-1.jpg

[67rstbkt]

I hear ya Don, I'm a big fan too, but I'm a bit biased, LOL

some minor updates:

Got the bumper back on yesterday with new bolts and all, got it lined up better than it was. I do have a question, Does anyone know how to put those springs or whatever they're called that keeps the trunk open in place? I can't figure it out, and it was proving to be extremely difficult.

Got my calipers in today (thanks Ed!), Started cleaning them up, and will finish that tonight. After work I stopped and ordered some rotors from pepboys cause they didn't have the better quality solid rotors in stock. I'm holding off on the drilled/slotted rotors for now, I don't plan on doing any extremely aggressive driving just yet, and I'm sure even with the solid rotors these suckers will stop wayyyy better than the drums did. I'll pick the rotors up tomorrow afternoon, then I've got to get to the machine shop by 5 p.m. with a rotor and the hubs to get the hubs machined down. The conversion kit is arriving on Monday, can't wait!!!!



I just picked up a set of Hotchkiss front springs for my Pontiac and they listed the small block springs for the 400, so you would be good to go.

As far as the trunk springs, I hear they are a pain to get back in. Check out this conversion, easy and cheap:
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=169354 (http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=169354)

[68firebird]

As far as the trunk springs, I hear they are a pain to get back in. Check out this conversion, easy and cheap:
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=169354 (http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=169354)

Awesome, thank you!!!

[John Wright]

neat strut....

[67rstbkt]

Awesome, thank you!!!

No problem. I save all the links to threads that may come in handy one day :jump:

[68firebird]

Well, I'm trying to keep busy doing something on a daily basis, so I had this tach in the for sale section because I was thinking of going another route with the guages, but I figured out a way to install the tach where the old giant fuel guage sat. I just have to make up a couple brackets for the bottom to help keep it in place, off to lowes I go. only problem is I have to get a phantom 5 in. speedometer and a small fuel guage to match. Its like dominoes, replace one thing and many other things follow.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/ee8ea390-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/5e0bc8e7-1.jpg

[68firebird]

Got the LS1 disc conversion kit in yesterday, last night I dropped my spindles off at another machine shop to drill and tap the 1/2" anchor boss to 5/8". I should be getting the hubs back tomorrow and hopefully the spindles, then I'll put the front brakes together.
I also ordered a nice set of braided stainless hose from Kore3 which should also be in tomorrow or thursday. I hate the waiting game!!!

Also, Since these brakes won't fit the 15 inch rallye 2's, and new rims aren't in the budget yet (in other words the wife doesn't know I need them yet, haha)this puts me in a bit of a bind. I've hit up a buddy who is gonna sell me a set of 92 camaro RS wheels for $100 to get me by for now, just have to do a trial fit to make sure they clear the calipers. These are the rims, minus the tires. hopefully they'll at least get me by as rollers.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/tn2-1.jpg

[John Wright]

these brakes won't fit the 15 inch rallye 2's, and new rims aren't in the budget yet
Cool that you have that option to beg/borrow/buy a set of wheels....when I did my C5 brakes....the car sat on jack stands for what seemed forever until I saved up enough to splurge on wheels and tires to get the car back down on all fours again.

[68firebird]

Cool that you have that option to beg/borrow/buy a set of wheels....when I did my C5 brakes....the car sat on jack stands for what seemed forever until I saved up enough to splurge on wheels and tires to get the car back down on all fours again.

Yea true, but I'm sure yours landed on all 4's with wheels that you wanted not that you had to settle for LOL. I got lucky that a buddy had some 16 X 8 rims, even though they are camaro rims. I hope they fit over the calipers, for $100 for all 4 I can't go wrong. Only problem is I have to buy tires for them. If I do buy them I'll probably sandblast them, paint them gunmetal,and blast the "chevrolet" off the outer center caps and replace the camaro sticker in the center with a firebird one. Just some thoughts on that

here's a pic of one mocked up with 2 stacks of ceramic tiles to just kinda see if it looks ugly or nos :smoke: Do you guys think it would look stupid with camaro rims?

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/rims-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/rims1-1.jpg

[Josh69]

You can keep your hotchkis springs. ; ) The small block ones would be fine with a Pontiac because it's not as heavy as a big block chevy. I made the mistake of going with the big block springs with my 400 and they're a little too stiff. Should have gone with the small block version.

Agreed. The Pontiac mill weighs about in the middle of the SBC and BBC, a touch closer to the BBC. I went with BBC springs and even though it sits level, it's not quite as low as I'd like in the front. Now trying to decide if I should go with the SBC springs in 2" or the 3" drop.

[Josh69]

:smoke: Do you guys think it would look stupid with camaro rims?




It's all about what you can and are willing to spend. If it works for ya, and fits your budget do it. I personally grew tired of seeing IROC style rims on every other custom and S10/Blazer around in the early 90's, but it's been awhile now. Painting them gunmetal will help alot. Keep us posted!

[John Wright]

Yea true, but I'm sure yours landed on all 4's with wheels that you wanted not that you had to settle for LOL.
Actually no, I settled for cheap, very heavy, steel truck rims(Cragar Soft 8's) because they came in a decent back spacing, and width and still fit over the C5 brakes. If i had the funds, I would have bought a lighter, more attractive looking rim...but.

Those rims that you got, look good on there....and they are much lighter than the rims I have. Win, win for you...

[68firebird]

Actually no, I settled for cheap, very heavy, steel truck rims(Cragar Soft 8's) because they came in a decent back spacing, and width and still fit over the C5 brakes. If i had the funds, I would have bought a lighter, more attractive looking rim...but.

Those rims that you got, look good on there....and they are much lighter than the rims I have. Win, win for you...

I actually like the soft 8s, I was thinkin of getting them cause they are cheap. too bad they don't make them in aluminum

[Tucks69]

I see the snowball effect has started on your project! Welcome to the Club!! LOL

[68firebird]

I see the snowball effect has started on your project! Welcome to the Club!! LOL


yup, I was hoping to at least have it driveable by september to attend a pontiac show, but I think I've opened too many cans of worms at this point, and the cash flow won't allow that, LOL.

I got the hubs back from the machine shop tonight, I pressed the wheel studs in and sprayed some chassis paint on them. I'll throw the wheel bearings in at work tomorrow, hopefully I'll get my spindles back tomorrow night!!! I hate waiting on parts.

also, I had posted a question in the disc brake section about the wheel studs. basically my question is the holes on the rotors are bigger than the 7/16's wheel studs and just want to make sure this was ok. I guess I thought the rotor was going to fit nice and tight over the studs. tucks69 says he runs his C5 setup with 7/16's and is fine, so I guess we'll see.

[68400BIRD]

The stud holes can be larger as long as the center hole is tight to the rotor. The rotor need to be centered exactly for the brakes to work correctly.

[68firebird]

The stud holes can be larger as long as the center hole is tight to the rotor. The rotor need to be centered exactly for the brakes to work correctly.


yea, the center is a perfect fit, and the machine shop did an awesome job of machining the hub to fit in the rotor hat nice and snug.

Just installed the new races on one of my "breaks" at work. Going to pick some wheel bearing grease up on lunch and I'll pack the bearings on my next "break" hahaha.

[68firebird]

the hubs are re-assembled, I got my braided hoses in from KORE3 today, I went and picked up some ceramic pads and a caliper hardware kit after work. I've almost got everything to put these brakes on, only thing I'm waiting for is the damn spindle. Hopefully tonight I get that, I've got my fingers crossed, if not I have to wait till the weekend to do more work on it.

I think the camaro rims will fit the LS1 brakes so I've decided to go with them. I painted one of them graphite, I think it looks pretty cool. I'll put a couple clear coats on it too. I painted over the "chevrolet" on the center cap, I just need to get a firebird sticker or something to go where the camaro sticker is.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/f4992d03-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/f8de61f2-1.jpg

[ionizer]

so any chance I could get you to show some pics of your rear bumper brackets while you have the rear bumper off. I can not find brackets anywhere and just broke down and ordered a set for a 69. I mean the bumper looks great sitting on the garage floor but I bet it would look better on the car :-)


thanks for such a great read love your progress

[68Formula]

Did you measure for tire fitment in the wheel wheel with those rims? My understanding is the front and rear have the same width, but different backspacing.

I forget exactly which is which, but two will fit, and the other two will be a problem.

[speedster]

Great 68 Firebird project you have...

Nice writeup too.

Thanks for sharing. :)

[68firebird]

ionizer-sorry I've already got the bumper back on, but There's a place by me called "Competitive Automotive Inc", its strictly a GM restoration store, pretty much what you can get in a classic industries catalogue you can get from this guy, you can barely walk in his store is stuffed with so much stuff. anyway, he also deals with used parts as well, maybe give him a call and see if there's anyway he can get some, new or used. Their number is 401-739-6262, they are only open monday through friday from 12-6 eastern time. give them a call on monday. If you can't get through let me know and I'll drive down and check into it for you. Good luck

68 formula- You are right, they have different backspacing. I put the back rim on and measured, it looks as though I have 1 1/16 inch clearance from the back of the rim to the wheel well, I'll just have to make sure I get a low pro tire that doesn't extend outside of the rim area. If need be I could use a small spacer I guess, but at this point it doesn't look as though I'll need it, we'll see. I can't really check the front yet since its not together, still waiting for the damn spindles. hopefully there won't be any problems up there. I wanted to go with the widest possible tire I could get for these, but I'm not thinking that's the way I'll be able to go.

speedster-thanks, I probably post alot of useless info, but I like showing even the littlest progress. makes me feel good, LOL.

[67rstbkt]

so any chance I could get you to show some pics of your rear bumper brackets while you have the rear bumper off. I can not find brackets anywhere and just broke down and ordered a set for a 69. I mean the bumper looks great sitting on the garage floor but I bet it would look better on the car :-)


thanks for such a great read love your progress

My bumper is in the garage with the barackets attached. PM me with what you need as far as pics and I'll take a few. :cheers:

[ionizer]

Thanks guys for your help.... cant wait to see your next steps. I want to go disk brakes also so I am reading every word...

[sr73bu]

Great Build! I know what its like to be on a budget... it seems like you are using your money wisely...

I see youre running 16" wheels like me, not sure if you ordered tires yet, but I found out that Nitto makes a 275/45/16... wish i found that size before i ordered my 255's.... thought you could investigate an see if they fit... i copied the link at work so if you can't find them I can send you the link monday... good luck with the car, looks great!

[68firebird]

thanks for the tip sr73bu, I haven't ordered tires yet so thats very helpful.

I finally got the spindles today and made good progress on the drivers side. I'll do more tomorrow.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/bc470cbe-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/ae27399c-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/86062947-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/4a164cfa-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/be64fcea-1.jpg

[ModernMuseum]

Hey 68firebird - nice build you have going here!

I have a question - where did you get those interior door panel covers? I'm looking for some deluxe interior door cards but the people selling them want an arm and a leg for them!

[68firebird]

modernmuseum, those door panels were already in the car, I just freshened them up with some black dye and replaced the carpet on them. they are expensive pieces new, as is most everything on these things, lol

Got the passengers side together this morning, all I have to do is compress the pistons in the calipers so they'll fit over the pads.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/6b4669db-1.jpg

[68firebird]

Got the calipers on, the front rims clear no problem, but I'm gonna have to use a spacer for the back to bump the rim out more since the backspace is bigger, oh well.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/12866dcb-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/22843c77-1.jpg

[68firebird]

I think I've found the tire for me. Bfgoodrich gforce. I'm lookin at 225/45 16

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[68firebird]

I've gotta head out to get some camber shims tonight, the camber is way off, so I need to get it somewhat close to see what size spacer I need for the rear. I need tires, spacers for the back rims, master cylinder and prop valve, and maybe a brake line or two, then I can put her back on the ground to be fired up again. Even if I just am able to drive it around the block I'd be happy. Then its time to save for the hotchkis rear leafs. I hate not being rich!!!!!

[68firebird]

Ok guys, I've got a question. I did the g-mod, I made sure I had clearance for the upper arm. Now that I've got a bonch of shims in there it obviously brought the upper arm back a bit, and now the back of the arm is just barely coming in contact with the upper corners of the shock tower. The car is still up in the air so it's resting on the bumpstop and obviously when it's on the ground it won't be hitting, but will this be a problem while driving? I don't know how often the suspension Actually gets to the upper bumpstop while driving. I obviously didn't take shimming into consideration when checking clearance. In the picture below its just hitting where I circled. Well at least I got the rim to around 0 on camber right now.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/c47dba77-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/0a854061-1.jpg

[67rstbkt]

I don't know if it's a problem, but I had the same experience. I'm using Global west tubular uppers and there is some minor contact between the front facing tube of the arm and the shock tower when I pull up on the arm. I don't think it will ever go that high during use, so I'm guessing it will be fine. I'm curious if others have had the same problem or if it's just the two of us :hammer:

[68firebird]

I don't know if it's a problem, but I had the same experience. I'm using Global west tubular uppers and there is some minor contact between the front facing tube of the arm and the shock tower when I pull up on the arm. I don't think it will ever go that high during use, so I'm guessing it will be fine. I'm curious if others have had the same problem or if it's just the two of us :hammer:


hahaha, I guess we are the only ones this happened too.

not much progress lately, I ordered a set of these firebird emblems to cover the "camaro" emblem on the center caps

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/Bdoj21gBGkKGrHqQHCYErgO9T0BK5y4nwuDg_12J-1.jpg
been saving money and doing some stuff around the house, but I finally took some better quality photos with a regular camera, so of course I figured I'd share.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/IMG_1800-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/IMG_1799-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/IMG_1809-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/IMG_1806-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/IMG_1805-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/IMG_1798-1.jpg

[68400BIRD]

Looking nice!! I did the G-mod also. I didn't notice any thing when moving the speed tech arms up and down.

[sr73bu]

Looking good man! I'll have to pic your brain in the future, I'm starting a 67 Camaro next fall (for my father).. not sure if its going to be a PT car, but the suspension does need work...

[68firebird]

Thanks guys. Put the new center cap emblems on and wa-la, I now have firebird rims instead of camaro lol

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/03ca1dd7-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/4a4f33e9-1.jpg

[NOT A TA]

Wheels look good with the bird logos!

[dusterbd13]

are you setting the camber with the suspension at full droop, or compressed? reason i ask is that il looks like theres no weight on the front in the pictures.

[68firebird]

are you setting the camber with the suspension at full droop, or compressed? reason i ask is that il looks like theres no weight on the front in the pictures.

you are correct, its on jackstands. well I'm not really setting the camber for actual alignment at this point, I just wanted to get the rim to as zero camber as possible to measure the gab between the fender lip and the edge of the rim, that way I can see what size spacer I need to get for the back rims to bring them out to even distance since the backspace on the back rims are a bit bigger.

[ionizer]

Wheels look Suhweeet!! (oh I found bumper brackets)...
and I am so drooling over those disc brakes...

[68firebird]

Wheels look Suhweeet!! (oh I found bumper brackets)...
and I am so drooling over those disc brakes...

thanks man, where did you find the brackets? as far as the brakes, they look damn good, but I can't wait to actually try them out.

ok, did some tire searching this weekend. I'm going to order in a couple hankook ventus hrII tires, size 215/40 16 or 245/50 16. They are $81 or $88 a piece with free shipping from discount tire direct, can't beat that on a budget, and they are essentially temporary tires for the temporary rims, so no need to spend crazy money on them. I don't really know how the 40 series will look on the bird though so I think I'm leaning toward the 50's. Any professional input on this?

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/hanhh1ang-1.jpg

[68Formula]

ok, did some tire searching this weekend. I'm going to order in a couple hankook ventus hrII tires, size 215/40 16 or 245/50 16. They are $81 or $88 a piece with free shipping from discount tire direct, can't beat that on a budget, and they are essentially temporary tires for the temporary rims, so no need to spend crazy money on them. I don't really know how the 40 series will look on the bird though so I think I'm leaning toward the 50's. Any professional input on this?



Waayy too short. Anything 25" or less looks out of place in the front wheel well (even if you slam it, too much gap fore/aft). A 215/40 is less than 23"! If the backspacing was dead on, you could fit a 245. But if you need smaller to get a little more clearance, try a 225/55. This is why I hate 16s, very little selection.

[68firebird]

Waayy too short. Anything 25" or less looks out of place in the front wheel well (even if you slam it, too much gap fore/aft). A 215/40 is less than 23"! If the backspacing was dead on, you could fit a 245. But if you need smaller to get a little more clearance, try a 225/55. This is why I hate 16s, very little selection.

thank you for the advice. I ended up ordering a pair of 245/50's earlier today to try them on the front. We'll see what kind of clearance I have once they are installed, hoping I'll have them in and on the car by the weekend. My fingers are crossed that all goes well.

[68firebird]

I should get the tires I ordered tomorrow, hopefully get them put on the rims on saturday.

and I decided to try and fire her up today after being quiet for 4 years. It actually went surprisingly well. afterwards I noticed it was leaking a bit of coolant from around the front of the intake, so I'll probably pull that off and put some new gaskets down. here's a little clip of it, shot it with my iphone so not the best quality.

_9M3NZM7Uss

[Dons67]

You can always count on a small block to start after 4 years -- good thing you did away with the Pontiac power plant :rotfl:

seriously though - its coming along great! keep on pace and you'll be back on the road in no time!

[Josh69]

You can always count on a small block to start after 4 years -- good thing you did away with the Pontiac power plant :rotfl:

seriously though - its coming along great! keep on pace and you'll be back on the road in no time!

Hey now, my '69 Firebird started with the original motor after sitting for 10 years....the mice in the exhaust werent' too thrilled. :machine:

Glad to see/hear it running! Another bird about to fly...love it!

[hechtrod]

225/50/16 is fairly common too. But 245/50's would be nicer if they fit for ya. Love the progress and the budget build. Something the "regular Joe's" can appreciate. Can't wait to see how she looks on the ground with the "Poncho Wheels". :)

[68firebird]

K guys I need some advice, I might have a problem. I lowered the car on the front tires and the drivers side sits lower to the ground than the passengers side, by about an inch I would say. I lowered the drivers side first, then while lowering the passengers side something on the drivers side made a bang, I'm thinkin it was the spring settling into the pocket. I checked everything out quickly and everything seems ok. Anyone have any ideas. I'll have to check into it a bit more later if I get time.

Here's a pic if the drivers side. The passenger side is a tad higher, I didn't use a measuring tape but I can put my fingers on the top of the passenger tire with no problem but not drivers side

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/c8fbe4ef-1.jpg

[68400BIRD]

It's hard to see with the shock in but make sure the spring is in the upper mount correctly. There are tabs that the coil sits around. Then check to make sure the lower part of the coil is indexed in the lower control arm correctly. Next take measurements from the center of all four rims to the edge of the fenders and quarters. Make sure the rear leafs are not adding to the problem.

[68firebird]

Thanks for the advice, I'll have to check those areas, the rear is on jackstands still so I don't know if that would have anything to do with it. Driver's side measures 24 3/4 inches from floor to bottom of fender lip and passenger side measures 25 1/2. So I've got 3/4 of an inch difference, and I'm pretty sure the passenger side is what it should sit like. I might just drop the lower arm and reseat the spring. Done for the day though. I think the best thing for me to do is wait until the rear is off jackstands before I do anthing.

[68firebird]

I dropped the drivers side control arm and re-seated the spring, put everything back on and still have 3/4 inch difference from drivers to pass side. I'll do the same to the pass side tomorrow or tuesday to see what the results are.

But from the looks of how this thing is sitting these tires I have won't work. I think they'll rub the fender lip on a nice big bump. I think I'm returning them and getting the 215/40, or maybe I'll go with a 225/45, ahhhhhhhhhhhhh I don't know!!! this part is getting frustrating!!!!!!

[68Formula]

But from the looks of how this thing is sitting these tires I have won't work. I think they'll rub the fender lip on a nice big bump. I think I'm returning them and getting the 215/40, or maybe I'll go with a 225/45, ahhhhhhhhhhhhh I don't know!!! this part is getting frustrating!!!!!!

Well we tried to warn you on the rim dimensions being a problem. Sometimes the "free" stuff ends up costing more and being a big headache when all is said and done.

Anyway, the front size to try next is the 225/55R16. Did you test the 245/50s for the back yet (with the correct rim offset, since the fronts and back are different on the IROC)?

[68firebird]

Well we tried to warn you on the rim dimensions being a problem. Sometimes the "free" stuff ends up costing more and being a big headache when all is said and done.

Anyway, the front size to try next is the 225/55R16. Did you test the 245/50s for the back yet (with the correct rim offset, since the fronts and back are different on the IROC)?

Yea, I know, don't rub it in, haha. I haven't given up all hope yet. When I typed the last post I was a bit aggravated. we'll see what happens this week. Just wish I had a full day to be able to work on it, I hate having to wait!

[68firebird]

ok, I put the subframe back on jackstands tonight and measured from the floor to the fender lip, and there still is a difference, so I'm thinking the old body mounts are the culprit. I really won't know until I put the global west solid mounts in, but I can't think of anything else that would cause it to measure differently on jackstands.

as for the tire situation, I'm thinking of putting the 245/50's in the rear and getting some 225/50's or 215/50's for the front.

[68400BIRD]

Were the control arm bolts torqued down after the car was on the ground?

[68firebird]

Were the control arm bolts torqued down after the car was on the ground?

The bottom ones were, but even with the subframe on jackstands the difference in meaurement is there. I have to do a bunch of measurements tonight, this is starting to piss me off!

[sr73bu]

Looking good man!.. really like the wheels... Despite the problems keep in mind how far its come from being a storage shelf a few months ago... you'll figure it out...

[68firebird]

Looking good man!.. really like the wheels... Despite the problems keep in mind how far its come from being a storage shelf a few months ago... you'll figure it out...


thanks, I'm definitely trying to stay positive, I just want to drive this thing soooooooooo bad!! walked around a cruise night for a bit last night and it only fueled the fire, lol.

started installing my global west solid body mounts last night, I'm hoping this will solve some of my issues with the body being slightly lower on the drivers side. some of the old bushings were so shot and squished that the bolts started unthreading with no effort at all. I was having a problem getting the drivers radiator support bushing out, so I just put the firewall one in and the one further back, loosely theaded the bolts in and I'll try and tackle it again tonight, hopefully get all the new mounts in tonight, but with the way things are going lately I'll probably run into some kind of problem.

One other change, The rims I'm using are from a 92 camaro, they are 16X8's front and back, but the front are 4.35 backspace and the rears are 5.00 backspace. after a bunch of research yesterday I decided to put the backs on the front and the fronts on the back. I think thats going to solve some issues too. now the lip of the rim in the front is actually inside the wheel well, not almost even with the lip, and it just clears the tie rod. instead of me having to run a big spacer in the rear (almost an inch or so on each side), now Its going to be a small one, if any at all. and I can use the 245/50's that I ordered in for the front, I'll just order some 225/50's for the front now.

[John Wright]

16X8's front and back, but the front are 4.35 backspace and the rears are 5.00 backspace.
Same thing when using IROC wheels on a second gen....fronts to the back and visa-versa due to the back spacing.

[68Formula]

i'll just order some 225/50's for the front now.

225/55r16

[68firebird]

225/55r16

Out of curiosity why do you say a 55 over a 50? I'm just a bit nervous cause the 245/50's I bought have an OD if 25.7 and that seemed really tight up in the well, and the 225/55 has a 25.9 OD. I know it's a bit narrower so it should clear the fender lip. Thanks for your help too.

[68Formula]

Out of curiosity why do you say a 55 over a 50? I'm just a bit nervous cause the 245/50's I bought have an OD if 25.7 and that seemed really tight up in the well, and the 225/55 has a 25.9 OD. I know it's a bit narrower so it should clear the fender lip. Thanks for your help too.

The 225/50 has a diameter of 24.9". It would give you more clearance from the top on your lowered car, but at the same time, it increases the gap from the front of wheel well to the tire and the back of the wheel well to tire.

I know it's sounds like a subtle difference, but aesthetically it will stand out and look odd (I've seen others). Keep in mind, the original tires F70x14s were supposedly 26.2", so the wheel wells were shaped to fit that size. So that's probably why even on a lowered car, the smaller diameter tire looks out of place.

Also keep in mind, since your car is lowered already, using the smaller diameter is going to bring your ground clearance down by half the diameter difference. So effectively you're losing .5" ground clearance between those two tire sizes.

Food for thought.

That being said, you still have to do what works. If it really looks like it's not going to fit, your choices are living with how it look (and the ground clearance it provides), or figuring a way to raise the height slightly.

One question, you mentioned the changing to solid mounts. Are you basing your clearance concern for that diameter with the old mounts or the new?

[dusterbd13]

i hope youve thought of this already, but ill make a suggestion. try going to some local tire shops. dig through their junk tire piles. find sizes you think might work. mount them, and try them. hell of a lot cheaper than guessing and not eing able to return the new ones once theyre mounted.

[68firebird]

The 225/50 has a diameter of 24.9". It would give you more clearance from the top on your lowered car, but at the same time, it increases the gap from the front of wheel well to the tire and the back of the wheel well to tire.

I know it's sounds like a subtle difference, but aesthetically it will stand out and look odd (I've seen others). Keep in mind, the original tires F70x14s were supposedly 26.2", so the wheel wells were shaped to fit that size. So that's probably why even on a lowered car, the smaller diameter tire looks out of place.

Also keep in mind, since your car is lowered already, using the smaller diameter is going to bring your ground clearance down by half the diameter difference. So effectively you're losing .5" ground clearance between those two tire sizes.

Food for thought.

That being said, you still have to do what works. If it really looks like it's not going to fit, your choices are living with how it look (and the ground clearance it provides), or figuring a way to raise the height slightly.

One question, you mentioned the changing to solid mounts. Are you basing your clearance concern for that diameter with the old mounts or the new?

yes I was basing it on the old mounts, i just thought about installing the new ones yesterday, I don't know why I didn't earlier. I've only installed the 2 back ones on the drivers side and I'm already measureing a difference in height, the old mounts were shot. plus after switching the rims around like I mentioned it looks like the new tire will fit nicely under the wheel well instead of hitting the lip. Like I said, I'm learning as I go, so I'm gonna pull some boners along the way, LOL. thank you so much for your patience and help

[John Wright]

Sweet....looks like you're getting closer. BTW, there aren't many of these old cars that sat completely level from sie to side...My car, even after all of the new suspension and body bushings sat 3/8" higher on one side.

[68firebird]

Ok, while installing the mounts I believe the welded nut under the drivers seat snapped (and of course I don't have the slightest idea of how to fix it) thats the last one that needed tightening of course, oh and there still is about a 3/4" difference in how it sits, now the gap between the door and fender was off on the bottom and of course I didn't realize it until AFTER I opened the door, which in turn scraped the paint from the edge on a couple spots. I'm taking a break from this thing for a while. After all the BS its givin me the last week I'm extremely low on patience and I'm ready to sell it.

[john5670]

I have felt the same way you have for a month now. After work 3 to 4 days a week I drive 60 miles oneway to help my dad finish the build we started 5 years ago. We also have had a few bumps along the way. We are currently finishing the wiring and a hot test wire slipped out of my hand and arced across our new wilwood chrome brake booster ruining the chrome in the areas it hit. Also chipped the paint on one of the doors during assembly. I feel like somedays I drive 120 miles to work on the car for 3 hours and get nothing done.

Car looks great..keep up the good work!

[Jim Nilsen]

Hang in there and give it a break for a few days and then get back to it. Everything you are are having happen comes with doing a car yourself. It happens to us all in some place or another. You will have better moments when it runs !!!!!!

I'll be wondering how you feel when you see all the hard work almost done and you wish you had it back if you sold it unfinshed.

Good luck

[ModernMuseum]

Hehe, don't sell it mange. One time I spent about three hours trying to get a bolt in my convertible top on the 69 because I didn't have anyone to help me. I was holding up half the weight of the top while fully extending my arm trying to get it in. I finally gave up and end up getting it in the next day.

[George Manont]

Ok, while installing the mounts I believe the welded nut under the drivers seat snapped (and of course I don't have the slightest idea of how to fix it) thats the last one that needed tightening of course, oh and there still is about a 3/4" difference in how it sits, now the gap between the door and fender was off on the bottom and of course I didn't realize it until AFTER I opened the door, which in turn scraped the paint from the edge on a couple spots. I'm taking a break from this thing for a while. After all the BS its givin me the last week I'm extremely low on patience and I'm ready to sell it.


Hi '68Bird,

I found the same unlevel on my ride too. I didn't want to spend anything...and didn't want to scratch my head , so I swapped the spring L to R / R to L ... it worked.

But your knuckles may complain a bit though !


Cheers,


GM



.

[68firebird]

Hi '68Bird,

I found the same unlevel on my ride too. I didn't want to spend anything...and didn't want to scratch my head , so I swapped the spring L to R / R to L ... it worked.

But your knuckles may complain a bit though !


Cheers,


GM



.

Thanks GM, I was thinking of swapping the springs but was unsure if it really was going to make a difference. since it worked for you I guess I'll give that a try after my little break.

thanks for the votes of confidence guys. I have very little patience to begin with and when stuff just goes wrong more than I'd like I get like that. I'll hop back on this after a little break, maybe this weekend.

Ok guys, Please let me know what I'm in for with the nut for the body mount. its the one under the drivers seat. Is it a real pain in the ass to fix? If it requires welding I'm kinda screwed since I never welded in my life. Guess my first step would be to get the gap between the fender and the door correct so I don't keep messing the paint up, LOL. I wish I had some of you guys skills.

[John Wright]

Ok, while installing the mounts I believe the welded nut under the drivers seat snapped
What snapped?...the bolt wrung off ? or is the caged nut just spinning around?

Caged nut spinning around is common...the factory traps the nut with sheetmetal and sometimes the weld breaks loose and lets the nut turn.....only seen one way to fix this, and that is to locate it under the seat and cut a hole in the floor pan(measure twice, cut once)...yuk, I know. Fix the nut/bolt(depending on what's wrong) and patch the hole back up.

[68400BIRD]

What snapped?...the bolt wrung off ? or is the caged nut just spinning around?

Caged nut spinning around is common...the factory traps the nut with sheetmetal and sometimes the weld breaks loose and lets the nut turn.....only seen one way to fix this, and that is to locate it under the seat and cut a hole in the floor pan(measure twice, cut once)...yuk, I know. Fix the nut/bolt(depending on what's wrong) and patch the hole back up.

John, the 1st gens are a little different. There is a seat platform that goes over the caged not. I would start with pulling the drivers seat,sill plates, and carpet on that side. Just push it over to the side. There will be a slot in the seat platform. Try soaking the nut and bolt for the next few days. Then try wedging a screwdriver or chisel between the cage and nut. Worse case is you will have to dremel through the top of the cage and just put a normal nut on top.

[John Wright]

John, the 1st gens are a little different. There is a seat platform that goes over the caged not. I would start with pulling the drivers seat,sill plates, and carpet on that side. Just push it over to the side. There will be a slot in the seat platform. Try soaking the nut and bolt for the next few days. Then try wedging a screwdriver or chisel between the cage and nut. Worse case is you will have to dremel through the top of the cage and just put a normal nut on top.
You lucky dogs(those with 1stgens)...you guys have a slot?

[68firebird]

You lucky dogs(those with 1stgens)...you guys have a slot?

Awesome thanks for the heads up, doesn't seem like too bad of a fix. Yea it seems as though th nut just spins in there. I don't know if they were welded or not, didn't sound like they were, I just assumed.

[67rstbkt]

When you replaced the mounts, did you do it one side at a time? If not, the subframe might have shifted a little, causing your door to fender alignment issue. If you do a search for subframe alignment, someone on here posted the GM measurements for the subframe to body.

[68firebird]

When you replaced the mounts, did you do it one side at a time? If not, the subframe might have shifted a little, causing your door to fender alignment issue. If you do a search for subframe alignment, someone on here posted the GM measurements for the subframe to body.

I loosened the two rear ones on passenger side, but left the pass side core support tight, then I replaced the drivers side. Then I tightened the drivers side core support and loosened the pass side and replaced that side. after that was done I tightened all the rest of the mounts, or all but one, lol. Its the bottom of the fender where the gap got smaller, so I'm wondering if the whole front clip moved down a bit when I unbolted the front bumper brackets from the frame to replace the core mounts. maybe if I loosen those bolts back up and have someone lift up on the front bumper a bit it will fix the problem, the gap only closed by a small amount, just enought to scrape a tad bit of paint off the edge of the door.

[John Wright]

I expect the old rubber mounts had allowed the body to sag and then when you put the solid ones in, it changed the door gaps.

[Jim Nilsen]

Loosen the core support mounts and then align the fender to the door and then go back and tighten the core support where it wants to be, you may need to not have it so tight if it is still on the rubber mounts and if it is solid now you just need to shim it till you like it.

You are getting there and when your done you will know how to do it the next time a lot easier and there will be a next time so take notes.

[68firebird]

Loosen the core support mounts and then align the fender to the door and then go back and tighten the core support where it wants to be, you may need to not have it so tight if it is still on the rubber mounts and if it is solid now you just need to shim it till you like it.

You are getting there and when your done you will know how to do it the next time a lot easier and there will be a next time so take notes.

k thanks, that's what I'll do. The solids are in so I'll probably have to shim. Thanks so much for the help and positive vibes guys!

[70SS98SS]

looking good!! body does sag with old rubber mounts had similiar problem when I rebuilt the rear suspension in my chevelle.

[John Wright]

Do you have subframe connectors to install too?...if so, don't be surprised if they hit the floor....sometimes the body will sag enough that you have to reshape the floor to get the connectors up where they need to be.

[68firebird]

Do you have subframe connectors to install too?...if so, don't be surprised if they hit the floor....sometimes the body will sag enough that you have to reshape the floor to get the connectors up where they need to be.



yea, i've got global west connectors to install. I can't weld so I'm having someone do that for me.

Today I tackled some stuff that I had problems with, had a buddy come over and we fixed the gap issue, easy fix. then I lifted the carpet and saw the cage that the body mount nut sits in, it was all pushed out on the sides, which is why the nut was spinning. Thie main problem was I cross-threaded the nut, so I removed the nut and I'm heading out to get a replacement nut. back on the right track I hope.

[John Wright]

Glad you got it!

[68firebird]

I ended up getting a new grade 8 bolt (cause they didn't have a grade 5) and used that as a tap for the old nut and for the install. all body mounts are in, wooooo hooooo, I'm feeling better now, LOL. thanks for all your help guys!!

how come body mount bolts don't use grade 8? just curious

[68400BIRD]

Glad to hear it's going your way again.

[Jim Nilsen]

I ended up getting a new grade 8 bolt (cause they didn't have a grade 5) and used that as a tap for the old nut and for the install. all body mounts are in, wooooo hooooo, I'm feeling better now, LOL. thanks for all your help guys!!

how come body mount bolts don't use grade 8? just curious

It's good to hear you made it through it all and feel better about it.


Grade 5 will bend and stretch intead of breaking as quickly under an impact. Grade 8 can hold more pressure but how much do you need for steel that is weaker than the bolt?, not as much as you think. The debate can go on forever which is the best but I prefer to know my bolts are the strongest you can get, but my car is totally welded to be like a monocoque chassis and has no bolts holding a frame to the car.

[AtomicFirebird]

I checked you thread a while back but you only had a couple of pics. Wow, you have made some headway with the frame and all. It looks great! I haven't seen your's come up on the new post or I would have been watching. Keep it up and take it slow.

[68firebird]

I'm keeping it up, but yes its coming slowly right now, which sucks.

question guys, did the dash pads come from the factory just bolted on or did they also use adhesive? I'm trying to remove my old one, so I removed those cheesy lookin nuts from the bottom, but the damn this still doesn't want to budge, thats why I'm askin, I don't want to ruin anything forcing it off.

[Josue]

VERY cool thread! Glad to see another average Joe trying to get by with what he can afford, in the space he has! :cheers:

As amazing as some of these builds are on this site, it kind of gets old and discouraging seeing these guys drop tens of thousands of dollars into their rides, custom fabricating some kind of futuristic this, that, and the other, all in their state of the art, billion square foot facility with every tool known to man!!! LOL

Once I get my dad's 68 off him (see sig), I'll have pretty much the same platform to start from. Good body, good interior, just needs some suspension and wheel updates! I'm gonna swap out the powerglide for a TKO500 though, I want a manual toy. And the motor needs to be freshened up.

I need to get as much as I can done asap though, getting married in September, and I think a kid will be in our near future too. I keep reading everyone's "had a kid, car went on the back burner" posts, and I don't want to get sucked into that!

[BulldawgMusclecars]

Nice project! I have always been a big fan of early Firebirds, and seeing one built at home, by the owner, with limited space and a limited budget is even better! Great job so far!!!

I'm starting on a '69 Firebird convertible for a customer soon. Its an all original ,California car (missing the original engine, so I don't feel too bad cutting it up!). We're using a Procharged LS1/T56 '04 GTO as the donor. Not sure what we're doing suspensionwise yet, but it will be a PT build. Can't wait to tear into it!

[AtomicFirebird]

I am looking for the tool. Stand by please.

[AtomicFirebird]

Ok, first don't get carried away with pulling on the dash pad. It is held in buy this funny looking locking pin. It's called the (clip, dash pad dog leg) #14655. If you go to NPD or classic industries and look for a trim pad removal tool. I got carried away, Then frustrated and then really stupid. I completely destroyed the dash pad, then after I did the act I found the tool in NPD catolog. Be patient my friend and look for the tool.

[68firebird]

Ok, first don't get carried away with pulling on the dash pad. It is held in buy this funny looking locking pin. It's called the (clip, dash pad dog leg) #14655. If you go to NPD or classic industries and look for a trim pad removal tool. I got carried away, Then frustrated and then really stupid. I completely destroyed the dash pad, then after I did the act I found the tool in NPD catolog. Be patient my friend and look for the tool.

awesome, thanks, I had no idea there was a tool for it. Thats why if I'm in a jam I come here and ask questions, there's always someone here who has done it before you and has the right answers.

[AtomicFirebird]

This is what's hold in the dash pad to the dash. The screw holds the dash pad dog legs to the dash pad, not the dash. Well, at least on my car it did.

[68firebird]

Ok ,thanks. I checked NPD and I've searched the web and can't find a specific tool to take the dash pad off :dunno: I'll check into what I have to do next time I get in the car.

[AtomicFirebird]

The tool is called trim pad removal tool. If you google the name, you will get a hit. My buddy who owns a GTO told me that that tool is used throughout the car to remove trim parts. Sorry so late, I have been working on the Firebird.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00999297000P?vName=Sears%20Pro&cName=Professional&sName=Building%20&%20Remodeling&sid=IDx20070921x00003a&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=00999297000P

[68firebird]

The tool is called trim pad removal tool. If you google the name, you will get a hit. My buddy who owns a GTO told me that that tool is used throughout the car to remove trim parts. Sorry so late, I have been working on the Firebird.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00999297000P?vName=Sears%20Pro&cName=Professional&sName=Building%20&%20Remodeling&sid=IDx20070921x00003a&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=00999297000P

oh ok, I saw that on NPD. I was actually looking for a dash pad removal tool, hahaha, I think sometimes I'm the damn tool LOL. thanks again for your help.

[AtomicFirebird]

Your not the tool, they are. They gave it a name that no one would have thought it was used for and to make it worse, they did not give direction how to remove the part. The best I could do is show you what it looks like behind the pad. My service book show pics and does not give direction how to remove it. This is a phone pic, so bear with me. You have to look at section B-B. that's the area where the pin enter the dash pad dog leg, it just showing from the top not the bottom. All sections apply to the F body car.

[68firebird]

sweet, thanks for all your help! now I have to get me one of those tools.

[BirdsThaWord]

How's yer 'Bird coming along? Can you give us an update?

[68400BIRD]

I hope you did not put the car to sleep for another four years. LOL Updates!!!

[68firebird]

sorry to report guys, I really haven't done much to the bird in a bit. Cash flow got really low, not enough time in a day at this point. I have to admit though, I stupidly wasted money on other various hobbies that I have that I could have put into the bird, and I've been reminded by that by my wife a few times. She's still in the garage though, which is a good thing, cause I've thought long and hard a couple of times about selling it to get some dough. Hopefully sometime soon we'll be in a better financial situation and I can start back up on it again. until then, she rests.........

[96t/acj]

Dont give up LOL! you will get there...

[rfalker1]

keep up the fight!!!!

[ajg87]

x2!

[BuddyP]

I've been on mine for just over 8 years.... very depressing and very frusterating. Still have a LOT to do. Yours has been a short road, your doing good.

[68firebird]

Will this master cylinder/prop valve setup work good with my LS1 front brakes and the stock rear drums? Just wanna make sure before I pull the trigger on it. thanks.
https://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.php?67128-pro-touring-68-firebird-on-a-budget

I'm trying to get back on this again, LOL. My 6 year old daughter told me she wants to go to cruise nights in it so people can look at our car, hahaha, thats enough motivation to get me to push forward.

[68firebird]

Pulling the cover off the car yet again (yes the wife was again using it as a shelf). I'm in the process of trying to grab any pair of 225/50 16 tires to throw on the front rims and get it on the ground, hopefully the guy on craigslist comes through and I can get them tonight and have them mounted tomorrow. I should be getting the mastery cylinder and prop valve setup over the next few weeks (I did ask for it for fathers day, but I'm sure my wife hasn't ordered it yet, haha), and I'm gonna start working on the inside of the car a little at a time. I'm also trying to line up a good welder to fix the body mount tabs on my subframe, way too rotted, so I need this rolling and stopping to get it places. I've also got a small addition going on the house, so I'll be bouncing around between the two projects. hopefully updates will follow frequently.

[ryeguy2006a]

Don't give up, just keep plugging away. That is what I did, and mine took 7 years to finish!

[68firebird]

the guy from craigslist came through, picked up the tires last night. $50 for both tires, not the best tires by any means, but something I can throw on the rims and see if they fit, plus I can get the car on the floor and move it out of the garage if necessary. I'll hopefully have them mounted tonight.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[68firebird]

Got the tires mounted and put on the car. It looks like these will work for now, looks pretty good to me.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/fe164d51-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/79a7eb3f-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/b9359f58-1.jpg

On a side note, now I can't open the hood, lol. Maybe because it's been on jack stands for so long. It pops open, but gets stuck and I can't lift it up. Any ideas what I should do to get it open?

[68firebird]

well it looks like we're back in the swing of things here!! I got the hood opened, I ended up just taking the whole latch bracket off. Might as well clean it up and paint it while thats out too. The hood was getting caught on the safety latch for some reason.

Here's a couple more pics with the center cap on.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/fa015fda-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/869ac593-1.jpg

so now that I've got it on all 4's I figured I'd pull the top of the motor apart and put some fresh gaskets in, put a new control module in the HEI and to replace some old hoses. I know, its not the best looking motor on the planet, but it does run really good, hahaha.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/d5db136f-1.jpg

also, my wife did say she would pick the master cylinder and prop valve up for me very soon. so hopefully I can tie the brakes up soon.

I'd like to replace the seats with some newer front seats, anyone have any recommendations on seats that will fit in nicely?

[dusterbd13]

third gen camaro seats, or toyota solara seats. very comfy.....

im using lincoln mk8 buckets in my duster. incredibly comfy, inceredibly poorly bolstered.

[BCHALK22]

Great build man like the brakes and wheels.

[68firebird]

Great build man like the brakes and wheels.

Thank you! The rims are temporary, just had to pick something up cheap that would fit over the new rotors. when I say on a pro-touring on a budget, I mean a low budget, LOL. Doesn't compare to the rest of the high dollar builds on here. Just in the money most of the guys spend on rims and tires has me flabbergasted, and jealous, LOL.

[LeighP]

A build is a build....$'s don't make the car, imagination does. :)

[dusterbd13]

A build is a build....$'s don't make the car, imagination does. :)

exactly. i had to shelf the duster for the time being to build a new daily. so far ive git a grand in it and getting 37 mpg. and enjoyinng every mile with it.

a build is a build. enjoyment and serenity are where you get them, not what they cost you.

[Buryingthesun]

Nice project! looks just like my 67' But all my parts are in boxes because I want to drive the car for the summer and dig into it in the winter ;)

[68firebird]

Nice project! looks just like my 67' But all my parts are in boxes because I want to drive the car for the summer and dig into it in the winter ;)
That's exactly what my plans were 5 years ago lol, my priorities had changed for a bit. I'm gonna try really hard to get it going before the end of the local cruise night season this year though!

[68firebird]

Engine going back together. Once ita running and the brakes are working I'm gonna pull her out and power wash the rest of the motor.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/4b7214db-1.jpg

[68400BIRD]

Looking great. It's nice to see progress on this car again. I understand the budget completely. I am going on four years on my build and I'm a few years away from being able to afford to paint it.

[acegto]

I know those wheels are a "temporary" fix, but the dark graphite/white color combo is a winner!!!

[67rally]

I'd like to replace the seats with some newer front seats, anyone have any recommendations on seats that will fit in nicely?

Car is looking good, glad to see you're back at it.

I just installed a set of ProCar Rally's in my '67 Camaro and love them. I know a few guys have kept their old seats and used the TMI sport foam and covers to keep the classic look but add a little side bolster.

[68firebird]

I agree acegto, I'm loving that color combo too.

Had the motor running today! Super excited! Just have a few things to fix, like leaky fuel filter, leak at a power steering fitting, and new belts, other than that it's running great, even with the old fuel that was in there. Gotta get the brakes fix ASAP, really gettin the bug now!!!

[68firebird]

Here's a small clip of it running, i'll post a link up in case the video doesn't show up. _HRsZKh8[/url]

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4tj-HRsZKh8

Also I re- mounted the autometer tach into the stock bezel. I now need to pick up a speedometer for the other side. Also ordered a new fuel filter to replace the leaky one on there now.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/061b6da1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/2845ab01-1.jpg

[68firebird]

Out of curiosity, you guys that use autometer gauges in place of stock how do you wire in your turn signal indicator lights? do you just put an LED in and wire to that? same with the high beam indicator? One thing that I am very scared to screw up is the electrical, definitely not in my wheelhouse, and wiring in these guages is got me a bit nervous, LOL.

[dusterbd13]

yup. just three tiny LED's fpr those.

and if youre interested in a black, 5 inch, 200 mph speedo from autometer, i have one to let go of cheap.

[68firebird]

thanks for the info Michael. Thanks for the offer on the speedo too, but I'm gonna stick to using the phantom series, to keep it all uniform. though its tough to pass up on an offer like that, LOL.

[dusterbd13]

no problem. i do custom dasdhes and wiring as a side buisness, so im always willing to help.
especially when its not my fat butt crammed under the dash.

and usually i have leftovers laying around.

[68firebird]

no problem. i do custom dasdhes and wiring as a side buisness, so im always willing to help.
especially when its not my fat butt crammed under the dash.

and usually i have leftovers laying around.

Well that's good to know, I'm gonna have a bunch of questions on wiring when I get to it, I've never done that before on a car LOL! I just downloaded a bunch if wiring diagrams to try and figure out where all the wires are that I need.

[LeighP]

As far as seats go....I used a pair of mid to late 80's Corvette buckets....they have a flat bottom that makes adapting them to factory rails easy, and they sit low to the floor - I gained at least two inches of headroom in my 71.
Other advantages, the seat foams come pre-covered in a huge range of coloured leathers and just clip into the seat frames...no paying a trimmer to fit the covers. They are also slim line in the back, so there is more rear seat leg room as well.

[68firebird]

As far as seats go....I used a pair of mid to late 80's Corvette buckets....they have a flat bottom that makes adapting them to factory rails easy, and they sit low to the floor - I gained at least two inches of headroom in my 71.
Other advantages, the seat foams come pre-covered in a huge range of coloured leathers and just clip into the seat frames...no paying a trimmer to fit the covers. They are also slim line in the back, so there is more rear seat leg room as well.

awesome, thank you. I'll have to look into those.

[68firebird]

Hey michael, I need some of your knowledge! If I were to pick these up from radio shack to use as turn signal indicators http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062569 would I need to put a resistor to absorb some of the voltage in between the led and the power source? It says in the description of the led that its a 12v led, and I'm assuming there is 12v going to the signal indicators. I'm doing research on this now and I wanna make sure I buy all the stuff I need to wire it up properly. thanks.

[68firebird]

Think I found the answer, it has the resistor built right into it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/b265879a-1.jpg

[Buryingthesun]

I like where this build is going! It will be nice for your car and my car to meet some day in a parkinglot lol

[LeighP]

awesome, thank you. I'll have to look into those.

Found a couple of pics....
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[dusterbd13]

yup.

on the origonal harness, if i remember right, it just provided a hot side to the bulb. youll have to give a good ground, or the LED wont fire.

and thise are the exact same ones i typically use. god bless radio shack.

[68firebird]

thanks leigh, those do look like they fit really good. I'm gonna have to scour craigslist to see what I can find. those would be soooooo much better than the stock firebird seats.

thanks Michael, thats what I was thinking, that I'd have to just ground them out somewhere.

[dusterbd13]

if youre coming south, ive got a pair in similar condition in storage.
(can you tell i never throw anything away???)

[68firebird]

if youre coming south, ive got a pair in similar condition in storage.
(can you tell i never throw anything away???)

hahaha, thanks but I'm not coming south anytime soon, closest I have to family down there is in myrtle beach.

small update, got my hotchkis/bilstein shocks in today, man these things are stiff!!! took the rear drums apart to put new shoes and hardware in, but I don't think the drums and wheel cylinders are useable, I'll have to pick some of those up.

[dusterbd13]

i like the beach......

and weve got kin in richhmond VA that well be going to visit soon.

and once you go bilstein, even your daily driver work truck winds up with them. theyre that good.

[gtalum01]

I also have Corvette seats in my 68 Bird, from a 90 model. They were power but the motors were trashed but I found if you use the original seat tracks they fit very well, you just need some steel spacers in the front and rear. But it was a simple install and the fit is great as far as plenty of clearance as well as side bolsters are so much better than the originals. just my $.02.

[68firebird]

I also have Corvette seats in my 68 Bird, from a 90 model. They were power but the motors were trashed but I found if you use the original seat tracks they fit very well, you just need some steel spacers in the front and rear. But it was a simple install and the fit is great as far as plenty of clearance as well as side bolsters are so much better than the originals. just my $.02.

awesome, thank you. I'll have to try and keep an eye out for a pair of corvette seats then. that sounds good.

[68firebird]

Just placed a small order with summitracing.com:

5 inch autometer phantom in dash speedometer
2 1/16 inch phantom fuel level guage
2 rear drums.

quick $270 gone LOL.

[68firebird]

summit order will be in thursday night sometime, after that I can put the rear brakes together. last night I started into something I've been not wanting to do, try and fix this mess!!

this is the mess of wires I have to figure out, some of it I know what its from because I had put the 3 gauges in, but I have to put black wire for the negative wiring, I didn't do that on initial install a few years back. The nest behind the radio I have no idea what's what yet.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/5ebd0102-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/0cc16597-1.jpg

all that was on this pic below was some electrical tape, and it wasn't even a good tape job, kinda scary LOL, and of course of the course of a dozen years the tape started to fall off. I'm not that best at this and I could have done it better the first time around!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/0206c998-1.jpg

and there's some wires that I had just thrown some blades on for the gauges a few years back and wedged them on the side of the glass fuses, I have to figure out whats the best wires to splice into for the power to these gauges now that I have a tad more knowledge than I did back then.

should be fun!

Is there a company out there that just makes a blade fuse block to put in place of the glass fuse block? I'd love to get rid of the glass fuses.

[67rally]

Painless makes a fuse block without the wiring, if you're looking to re-use your current rat's nest: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRF-30001/
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/prf30001_w-1.jpg

If you want to redo the whole wiring system, I've heard better things about the AAW kit than the Painless kit. I'll be using the AAW kit this winter when I re-do the rest of mine.

[68firebird]

I've seen those generic ones like that but was unsure if that would work. I'm very new to automotive electric and just want to make sure what I get will fit and won't require rocket science to figure out how to wire it up.

[68firebird]

nothing really too exciting, but I got the rear brakes together, waiting on the drums which come in thursday. still have to order the master cylinder, should be very soon. I wanna pull this out of the garage and into the driveway to do interior work, lighting sucks in the garage!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/2d9528ec-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/c363ae12-1.jpg

[68firebird]

Ordered gas struts and ball studs today to do the trunk mod that someone linked to me on teamCamaro.com. My torsion bars are crap.

here's the link to the thread. http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=169354

[68firebird]

got the speedometer and tach in, they look good. I've figured out how to run the led's for the signals, just gotta find the best place for them, not much room here for that, LOL. also got the drums painted and on. The fuel level guage will go in once I get a chance to make a 4 gauge holder. can't seem to find one, the biggest I can find is 3.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/0e37acfe-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/1a6205e9-1.jpg

[68firebird]

ordered my master cylinder and prop valve this morning from performance online. about time!!!!!

finished wiring the dash bezel with the gauges and LED's in, now gotta do under the dash.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/e1a9ce52-1.jpg

for now It looks like I'll be using the stock seats, have to drop the drivers seat off at an upholsterer and replace the center section cause of a rip.

almost ready to go!!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/af4854eb-1.jpg

[68Formula]

I like the Amana gage cluster above the speedo and tach. Looks very clean. You really think outside the box to stretch a buck! :jump:


ordered my master cylinder and prop valve this morning from performance online. about time!!!!!

finished wiring the dash bezel with the gauges and LED's in, now gotta do under the dash.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/e1a9ce52-1.jpg

[68firebird]

hahahahaha, I should have cropped that out I guess. wife was at work all day, so I wired it up on the stove, LOL.

[68firebird]

K Guys, I really need some help. Got my master cylinder and prop valve in today, supposedly this is supposed to fit my car, but the prop valve hits the fender well bracket. I'm thinking I'm gonna have to fab up some kind of bracket, is this the best idea? nothing ever goes easy!!!!!! I also need new brake lines, as these all connect in a different spot compared to the last prop valve.

can this prop valve be turned and mounted with the side facing down? thats the way the original one was. Please help!!!!!!!!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/d0423efb-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/e56d4f10-1.jpg

Would it be ok to mount the prop valve like this? I don't know if mounting it differently effects performance.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/bfe8526f-1.jpg

[wally_245]

My 68 Camaro has it mounted sideways from the factory...

http://www.wallbridge.net/new_master.jpg

shawn

[68firebird]

My 68 Camaro has it mounted sideways from the factory...

http://www.wallbridge.net/new_master.jpg

shawn

That's the exact same setup I just took off mine!! I think I found a way to mount it, just have to wait for a buddy to come over next week to bend and flare new lines

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/5b97ea34-1.jpg

[dusterbd13]

you can mount it underneath like that. matter of fact, same prop vave and master (by appearance) im putting in a 54 ford pickup at the moment. it was mounted underneath directlu from the manufacturer.

and you can rent the double flaring tool at autozone instead of buying one. you should also be able to twist the prop valve to mater lines by hand. may not be pretty, but fuctional depending on how well you do it.

[zombiekiller]

Inspiring build! I've had to take too many breaks because my budget got thin. Suffice to say, american express loves me! the upside is amazon started allowing you to use amex point a while ago. My corporate card is amex too and they let us keep our points! my business trips have bought quite a few parts for my galaxie from the points i earned!

Rene - if you decide that you want to give one of the painless add on fuse blocks a shot, I have one sitting in my parts bin that I never used. I dont know that I have ever single little connector and doodad, but i think they retail for like 70-75 bucks. If you want me to dig it out and send it to you, i can for whatever it costs to ship it. all I ask is that you pay it forward if you end up with something spare that someone else from this board may need.

let me know and I can dig it out this week.

[68firebird]

Inspiring build! I've had to take too many breaks because my budget got thin. Suffice to say, american express loves me! the upside is amazon started allowing you to use amex point a while ago. My corporate card is amex too and they let us keep our points! my business trips have bought quite a few parts for my galaxie from the points i earned!

Rene - if you decide that you want to give one of the painless add on fuse blocks a shot, I have one sitting in my parts bin that I never used. I dont know that I have ever single little connector and doodad, but i think they retail for like 70-75 bucks. If you want me to dig it out and send it to you, i can for whatever it costs to ship it. all I ask is that you pay it forward if you end up with something spare that someone else from this board may need.

let me know and I can dig it out this week.

Thanks Dave. I too have taken many breaks due to budget and time. Mine isn't nearly as pristine and perfect as a bunch of other cars on the forums, but when your scraping every last dime just to pay the mortgage (yes, we bought in 2005 what the housing prices were throught the friggan roof!!) you can't buy all the super nice parts. You don't know the amount of stuff I had to sell on ebay just to purchase parts over the last month, LOL. I just wanna get out and drive her! these curve balls that get thrown suck sometimes.

thanks for the offer for the fuse block. Is it at all possible for you to take a photo of it and post it up? I'm unsure if I'm able to use it in my car. I'd hate for you to send it up and I can't use it. thanks Dave!!

[Buryingthesun]

I like seeing progress here! Im afraid to tackle the brakes on my car right now. . . i kind of want to get it together and drive it for the rest of the year. I just need to get some money together for the QA1's otherwise I wont be able to get it back together :/

[zombiekiller]

Thanks Dave. I too have taken many breaks due to budget and time. Mine isn't nearly as pristine and perfect as a bunch of other cars on the forums, but when your scraping every last dime just to pay the mortgage (yes, we bought in 2005 what the housing prices were throught the friggan roof!!) you can't buy all the super nice parts. You don't know the amount of stuff I had to sell on ebay just to purchase parts over the last month, LOL. I just wanna get out and drive her! these curve balls that get thrown suck sometimes.

thanks for the offer for the fuse block. Is it at all possible for you to take a photo of it and post it up? I'm unsure if I'm able to use it in my car. I'd hate for you to send it up and I can't use it. thanks Dave!!



I believe it is this one

http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/largeview.php?SearchField=70107&SearchAll=Street%20Rod

[68firebird]

Ok, I'll grab it off ya Dave. let me know how much shipping will be, and I'll send you the money via paypal. I'll send you a pm with my address. Looks like I'll be able to hook a bunch of stuff to that off one of the stock fuses instead of possibly overloading the stock fuse.

[68firebird]

Ok, got the lines bent and flared, that's all set. I start to "bench" bleed the brakes on the car and the rod is making a clunking sound now when the brake pedal comes out, and it doesn't seem to go in the smoothest either. I re-used the rod that was on the last master cylinder, my guess is for some reason that pushrod is too short for the new one. Also noticed that the brake pedal now doesn't come in contact with the brake light switch too.

Edit: I'm thinking this will solve my problem. what you guys think? http://www.speedwaymotors.com/SSBC-Universal-Adjustable-Master-Cylinder-Pushrod-Kit,50351.html

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/91001726_L-1.jpg

[zombiekiller]

Ok, I'll grab it off ya Dave. let me know how much shipping will be, and I'll send you the money via paypal. I'll send you a pm with my address. Looks like I'll be able to hook a bunch of stuff to that off one of the stock fuses instead of possibly overloading the stock fuse.


No problem Rene. Its a solid add on. I would have used it, but I finally got so frustrated with the degree of hacking the factory harness that the PO did and broke down and just tore it all out and got an AAW kit. The PO had spliced into every wire imaginable to install a Kmart alarm system. My breaking point was when I was re-wiring the headlights. I was under the dash and touched a factory wire with my crimpers. The wire shorted and the shieling literally caught on fire like a fuse and almost cost me the entire car.

shop tip for the week: always have a fire extinguisher handy!

I'll dig the block out sometime this week and mail it off to you.

[68firebird]

awesome, thanks Dave. and I do have a fire extinguisher close by, LOL.

I ordered that adjustable pushrod for the master cylinder, hopefully that solves my problem.

[68firebird]

Ok, got the adjustable pushrod in yesterday and got it installed. still had the clunking problem, it ended up being the cap that goes onto the master cylinder that the pushrod passes through, I'm thinking to keep it in place, well there are reliefs on the top and bottom for the pushrod to easily move through at angles, but I had the reliefs going side to side, which didn't allow the pushrod to get the angle it needed. I finally removed the boot that was covering it to figure it out. I can't believe I took that damn thing off about 6 times, and each time I put it on the wrong way. Doesn anyone even know what that cap is called?

anyway, got that fixed FINALLY, and got the master cylinder bled. I'm now waiting for a friend to come over and help me bleed all four corners.

on a side note, I will be working diligently tonight and tomorrow replacing the plenum pan and gasket on the 5.9 in my Ram. so no firebird work this weekend.

[dusterbd13]

the plenum pan job on the magnum motors suck. plan on replacing a lot of vacuum hoses along the way, and id reccomend new injector o-rings as well. been there, done that. repeated.

[68firebird]

the plenum pan job on the magnum motors suck. plan on replacing a lot of vacuum hoses along the way, and id reccomend new injector o-rings as well. been there, done that. repeated.

Yup, not looking forward to it, but it needs to be done badly!! I'm also doing the valve cover gaskets, new thermostat, new bypass hose, new serpentine belt, all that good stuff while its apart.

[68firebird]

finished the plenum job, came out pretty good, took roughly 10 hours, doing a tune up and all as I put it back together.

Back to the bird, I NEED HELP, cause I'm getting very aggravated! I bench bled the master cylinder, bent new lines to the prop valve, and hooked it all up. now I'm onto bleeding the brakes. I'm starting at the passenger rear. I borrowed a buddies nice mac tools one man bleeder, the kind you hook a air compressor to. I CAN NOT get a good amount of fluid to come out. its basically a very small amount of fluid with a **** ton of air bubbles, then I get nothing, this thing should be draining my master cylinder, and its not. WTF could be the problem.

[wally_245]

My guess is you have a leak somewhere. If you close the bleeder screws and pump the pedal, do you build up any pedal pressure? If you don't you should see brake fluid wherever the leak is, check each joint and see if you find anything.

shawn

[dusterbd13]

also, those combintion valves have a built in safety valve. it shuts off the rear circuit if too much fluid bypasses. sometimes during bleeding, they trip by accident. a good way to un-trip them is to close the system, and kick the brake pedal as hard as you can a few times.
also, i have beeter luck with that master and valve combination doing the two man bleeding method.

did you replace the rear rubber line? it "could" be collapsed.

michael

[68firebird]

Yes michael, I tried the 2 man method tonight and we had success!!! I have to replace one small line from the MC to the prop valve cause of a slight leak, but we ended up having a nice pedal before we found the leak. very excited now, sooooo close to finally pulling her out of the garage.

I bought a tool for the prop valve to help the bleed process that you talked about. I also had to replace the bleeder screws on the front calipers, one stripped on me.

[68firebird]

So I got the brakes done and was going to attempt taking the car around the block. I got it out of the garage and up the street, but there was some banging or clunking sounds going on in the front end, I was going really slow too, I doubt I even hit 10mph. I'm thinking I have to make sure everything is tight again. I also haven't greased anything under there yet. Just another setback, thats the way this entire thing has been. right when you think you might be that close to getting it on the road, I have to take 2 steps back. but I was able to get it out and stop it, LOL.

yes I know the ass end is high, I haven't lowered that yet. gotta get the kinks worked out with the front before anything else.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/08/1199fe9b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/08/b4edb89a-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/08/a93783d1-1.jpg

[Buryingthesun]

^ I love how the front end is sitting, Im still miserably waiting for my coilovers to arrive (got lost in the mail) so once I get them I can put my bird back together

[LeighP]

Good going...at least yours is running and out of the garage. I just got my electrical system powered up - first time theres been power on the car in more than 25 years. Got some glitches to find....and I'm still fighting with bleeding the brakes, too. Can't try starting the engine till I've got some brakes, lol.

hope you sort that clunking out quick.

[68firebird]

^ I love how the front end is sitting, Im still miserably waiting for my coilovers to arrive (got lost in the mail) so once I get them I can put my bird back together

Lost in the mail?! that sucks dude. If it makes you feel better, although mine is together I still have to lift this back up and find out whats loose, or see what the problem is, find out where the clunking sound was coming from. I replaced everything under there, so it could be anything. probably not going to be easy, nothing seems to be easy, LOL.

[Buryingthesun]

Lost in the mail?! that sucks dude. If it makes you feel better, although mine is together I still have to lift this back up and find out whats loose, or see what the problem is, find out where the clunking sound was coming from. I replaced everything under there, so it could be anything. probably not going to be easy, nothing seems to be easy, LOL.

Yeah I ordered them 3 weeks ago, they were on a 1 week back order because QA1 have to finish the production run. I get them shipped out from the distributor and they end up at the wrong address and returned back to the distributor. . . Supposedly they shipped out last friday on a 3 day and I never got them weds/thurs/friday . . . I hope they show up on monday or im going to be unhappy, I already dedicated this weekend to installing them and blew off a few planned events (i.e. birthday partys, cookouts)

[srh3trinity]

I really like the white with the dark wheels.

[amanzo00]

I really like the white with the dark wheels.

Anyone know where I can get a set of LS1 rear disk backing plates?

[Buryingthesun]

if your drivable friday, let me know. There is a huge car meet right over the R.I. line in Mendon mass