Wheel bearings

[Van B]

My 67 Camaro had disc brakes when I bought it. I got the 6S six piston front brake setup from Baer that came with aluminum hubs and wheel bearings.

Logic would tell me that they used stock wheel bearings but does anyone know for sure?

[JRouche]

My 67 Camaro had disc brakes when I bought it. I got the 6S six piston front brake setup from Baer that came with aluminum hubs and wheel bearings.

Logic would tell me that they used stock wheel bearings but does anyone know for sure?

No. I wouldnt think they use the stock bearings. The outer race is the correct dimensions to fit the spindle. But they are prolly using a more modern bearing and one that fits the dims of their hubs.

I gotta ask why? Whats your plan? JR

[Van B]

One is feeling a little loose. I want to make sure it is right before I go on the track with it.

[CarlC]

The cup is likely the same since it must fit the stock spindle, but the cone MAY be different. I doubt it though since there is no gain in load or performance. If memory serves the stock set is a LM11949/910. This is the same number that everyone uses. The only basic change in the part number is the individual parts will be numbered LM11949 and LM11910.

Tapered sets can mix cups and cones to fit different envelopes. Hence, the cup may have a different O.D., but I highly doubt it. To move up in size to the Impala bearing set requires, if again my memory serves, a large increase in the ovrall envelope size.

For 99.99% of people out there, the stock bearing set works fine, and is a good design. Just stick with a Timken, SKF, NTN/BCA/BOWER or NSK part and you should be fine. I'm on almost four years and too many track days to remember on the same set of bearings and grease.

[Van B]

The cup is likely the same since it must fit the stock spindle, but the cone MAY be different. I doubt it though since there is no gain in load or performance. If memory serves the stock set is a LM11949/910. This is the same number that everyone uses. The only basic change in the part number is the individual parts will be numbered LM11949 and LM11910.

Tapered sets can mix cups and cones to fit different envelopes. Hence, the cup may have a different O.D., but I highly doubt it. To move up in size to the Impala bearing set requires, if again my memory serves, a large increase in the ovrall envelope size.

For 99.99% of people out there, the stock bearing set works fine, and is a good design. Just stick with a Timken, SKF, NTN/BCA/BOWER or NSK part and you should be fine. I'm on almost four years and too many track days to remember on the same set of bearings and grease.

I think I'll order a set and measure the ones that are in it when I take it apart. I have a feeling I may have left it too loose when I put it together. That was 2500-3000 miles and one track day ago. I started to notice the left caliper making a little noise just before I put the car away and when I jacked it up and wiggled the tire there was a little bit of play. I think I will err on the side of caution and just replace them.

[a67]

You may want to get in touch with Baer about the end play setting for the wheel bearings. The reason is that the aluminum hub is going to expand a lot more then a stock steel hub. This expansion from heat is what eliminates the end play while running.

On stock hubs I use a dial indicator and shoot for about 2-thou (0.002") of end play when cold. Most likely with an aluminum hub this would be greater.

Bob.

[CarlC]

LM11949/LM11910 0.7500"x1.781"x0.6550"

Aluminum hubs also have special fits. I'd recommend heating the hub up to 240*F for both removal and installation of the cup. Depending on the amount of interference you may still need to press the ring in and out.