1969 Yenko Camaro Race Car Conversion to a Pro-Touring Beast

[TheKingOTW]

I have decided to take my 1969 Yenko Camaro Race car and convert it to a Pro-Touring Monster. This car was originally turned into a race car in 1971 and has 4325 original miles on it. Most of the hard work has already been done, it's now just changing the minor things to make it work better on the street.

I am starting with a car I have built for drag racing only. It was a 3 year project that I completed about 3 years ago and don't really get a chance to take the car to the track anymore and decided to make it streetable, a monster street car. The car is fully tubbed, 12pt roll cage (certified to 7.50 seconds) with a Reher Morrison 540 (making 865HP) and then I added a 500HP shot of Nitrous. The car runs 8.86 seconds at 161MPH all day long.

Here are my plans for this beast.

1. Pull motor and replace 15:1 compression pistons with 11:1, new hellfire rings, replace solid roller with a roller hydraulic cam and lifters, valve job and replace valve springs to match new cam. Obviously change the bearings, gaskets, etc., check everything and clean the motor up. Its only has about 50 passes on it.

2. Pull TCI Turbo 400 with Trans Brake and replace with 4L80e with 3200 Stall lock up converter.

3. New Wheels ( I am currently thinking of Bonneville –G’s from Billet Specialties. 18X15 on rear and 18X8 on front. Tires will be MT Sportsman SR 31X18X18 and Nitto 555R 245/35/18 for the front.

4. Replace lower (stock) control arms with tubular lowers and add coil over’s up front. The car already has ladder bars and a 3 link with coil over’s in the rear. It also has front tubular upper control arms installed.

5. Interior is serious race at the moment, although it still has a stock dash with factory gauges (Complete and unmolested) with some added gauges throughout. The tin and tub work is the best I have seen. It is mint and will stay just the way it is. I am going to pull the seats and replace them with something comfortable, new carpet, some sound and a cleanup of the multitude of gauges.

Stay tuned…. More to come…..

Here is what I am starting with:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/IMG_0140-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/IMG_0138-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/IMG_0141-1.jpg
Going on the trailer for the last run at the track.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/IMG_0346-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/IMG_0348-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/IMG_0263-1.jpg

Here it is sitting in the garage waiting.....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/Race_Engine_005-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/Race_Engine_009-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/YENKO012-1.jpg
Here is the car at the track.

I will be starting this project next week and will post updated photo's of the progress.

[chunger]

Nice garage, looks like you've got plenty of room to work on 'em.

[CruizinKev]

awesome project! :twothumbs

[PROLINE]

Great start for a pro-touring project:cool:

[Memphis]

18x15s? Sounds like a cross between pro touring and pro street ;)

[TheKingOTW]

It is going to be built as a pro-touring car for road racing and terrorizing the street.

Here is another picture of the car leaving.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/2335dn_20100316_10461507-1.jpg

[chevyhector]

Look like a great project ! Call it "from beast to BEAST"

[TheKingOTW]

Look like a great project ! Call it "from beast to BEAST"

Maybe "From BEAST to beast" would be better.

[chevyhector]

Ok ! your car, call it what you like !

[TheKingOTW]

Ok ! your car, call it what you like !

I had no interest in naming the car or project but was just pointing out the way you had it posted. Being that the car was being de-tuned for the street, "beast to BEAST" seemed better named "BEAST to beast".

Don't sweat the small stuff....

[454bug]

It is going to be built as a pro-touring car for road racing and terrorizing the street.

VERY cool project and great looking car!! :cool:

You mentioned you plan on road racing the car... I don't think you'll care for the M/T Sportsman S/R tires very much on a road course... Those tires are really Street Rod/Pro Street tires. The tread compounds and the tall sidewalls won't bode too well with cornering forces... They would tend to "roll over" if pushed too hard. You're working with a 6.5" sidewall versus a typical 3.5"-4" sidewall... Also, those tires are only "H" rated good for 130 mph. I wouldn't trust them on a road course with a car with as much power (and potential speed) as your car will have.

I, also, would like to run a wider rear tire since my car was accustomed and set up for a "Pro Street" width rear tire for the sheer awe as well as the performance aspect. The problem is if you don't opt for a true Racing Slick, a 335-345 series 18" tire is the widest tire you're going to find in an applicable "Road Racing" tire...

Maybe, if your budget can afford it, you could have a second set of wheels and tires dedicated for the road course fun. You could run your M/T Sportsman S/R tires on the street and swap them out when you get to the track. That's what I'm doing.

Something to think about...

GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR AWESOME RIDE!! :headbang:

[Bryce]

Cool project, I would rethink the ladder bar rear suspension. They dont articulate very well.

[TheKingOTW]

VERY cool project and great looking car!! :cool:

You mentioned you plan on road racing the car... I don't think you'll care for the M/T Sportsman S/R tires very much on a road course... Those tires are really Street Rod/Pro Street tires. The tread compounds and the tall sidewalls won't bode too well with cornering forces... They would tend to "roll over" if pushed too hard. You're working with a 6.5" sidewall versus a typical 3.5"-4" sidewall... Also, those tires are only "H" rated good for 130 mph. I wouldn't trust them on a road course with a car with as much power (and potential speed) as your car will have.

I, also, would like to run a wider rear tire since my car was accustomed and set up for a "Pro Street" width rear tire for the sheer awe as well as the performance aspect. The problem is if you don't opt for a true Racing Slick, a 335-345 series 18" tire is the widest tire you're going to find in an applicable "Road Racing" tire...

Maybe, if your budget can afford it, you could have a second set of wheels and tires dedicated for the road course fun. You could run your M/T Sportsman S/R tires on the street and swap them out when you get to the track. That's what I'm doing.

Something to think about...

GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR AWESOME RIDE!! :headbang:
Thanks for the info but that is exactly what I was planning. Using the M/T's for the street and switching up when at the road course.

[TheKingOTW]

Cool project, I would rethink the ladder bar rear suspension. They dont articulate very well.

Initially I am going to leave the rear suspension as is and see what it feels like. If it feels like driving a bus around the corners, the rear suspension will get redone. The car is mainly going to be driven on the street. I plan on taking it to the track, both drag and road course to see what it feels like and if it capable of handling it all.

[NOPANTS-68]

I like the car just like it is. Looks like it works just fine.

[chevyhector]

I had no interest in naming the car or project but was just pointing out the way you had it posted. Being that the car was being de-tuned for the street, "beast to BEAST" seemed better named "BEAST to beast".

Don't sweat the small stuff....


It's cool, i didnt sweat it ! It's just great that you are doing the Pro-touring thing now.

[TheKingOTW]

I like the car just like it is. Looks like it works just fine.


It is fine just the way it is but I just don't get to bring it to the track enough and would get more use out of it on the street.

If I want to go to the track, I would take my 1967 Camaro. It runs 7.50's naturally aspirated with no power adder.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/3-2.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/11-1.jpg

And here is a video if you want the full tour of the car.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rMl6ywwp5VU



.

[Motown 454]

Wow another awesome Camaro.
Sweet!

[ROEINONDUBS]

to start off all ur cars are sick! including the dodge i seen in there!
it looks like your at a great starting point. im not to sure if you need to swap the lca's, but tall ball joints will be great also what steering set up and breaks will you be running ?

[454bug]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/3-2.jpg



Boy, that car hooks up GREAT!! :6gears:

NO WASTED MOTION!!!

Very sweet ride! :1st:

[94SNGLTURBO]

why change such a beautifull car

[1970 TT Rustang]

I like it the way it is but it allways nice to change it up

[gearbanger]

I always liked the car they did on overhaulin that was a 67 mustang fastback that was pro-streeted. Instead of untubbing it and all that, they put the really big diameter wheels on it and the MT tires that come in large diameters. It looked bad to the bone IMO.

[Dons67]

Something like this would be bad ass -- reminds me of the "Big Time" car my son plays with on the floor - rear tires are almost larger than life and would be a blast to drive around! May be too much if you were looking for a road course animal but leaving the rear tubed it would be easy to toss the slicks back on for the drag


I always liked the car they did on overhaulin that was a 67 mustang fastback that was pro-streeted. Instead of untubbing it and all that, they put the really big diameter wheels on it and the MT tires that come in large diameters. It looked bad to the bone IMO.

[Oakesters]

Do It, you dont need two drag cars, a toy for the steet will get played with more. :machine:

[CE69]

Sweet looking Camaro. Awesume!! :hail:
I think I would just de-tune motor & trans and drive as-is. Very hard to cross both Pro-touring and Pro-street. I'm old school Pro-street but love the handling of Pro-street. I'm finding it very hard to build the look of a pro-street and the handling of a pro-touring car. If I had the money, like a lot of us, I would build one of each. Also
if I had a Camaro that looks like yours I think I would be more than happy with it as a Pro-street car. Yea right!! :lol:

[TheKingOTW]

There are a lot of options and places to start. I will begin next week. I will post pics and descriptions as the project moves along.

[gearbanger]

There was a guy on here who did a Pontiac TA and it was called "Splitter". It was about the best example of a car that could do both things well. Of course that was the idea of the project hence the name. I know it ran some pretty good times on the strip, I think it broke on him at the pump gas drags so he didn;t finish well. I am not sure how he did in the autocross and road course stuff but there was some pics on the site. They did alot of V8 TV episodes on the build. I am pretty sure the guy came on hard times and had to sell the car. It was really an awesome ride though.

[TheKingOTW]

to start off all ur cars are sick! including the dodge i seen in there!
it looks like your at a great starting point. im not to sure if you need to swap the lca's, but tall ball joints will be great also what steering set up and breaks will you be running ?

It has Wilwood's all the way around. I'll probably leave them in place for the time being, and will probably add a HydroBoost to it.

[ryeguy2006a]

That is one gnarly looking motor!!

[TheKingOTW]

That is one gnarly looking motor!!

Yea, the motor in the Blue Camaro is sick...

[TheKingOTW]

Pulling the Motor out of the Camaro

Nate, Chris and I pulled the Reher Morrison 540 and TCI Turbo 400 out today and it took about 3 hours. I have decided to send it to Scott Schafiroff to refresh it. I decided on Scott because he has a great reputation in the industry with the race and street motors he builds and personally took the time to talk to me about what I wanted to do and how I wanted it done. He was very helpful with his years of experience and pointed me in the right direction on a few changes I should make, that I did not think of, when he rebuilds the motor. We are going to replace the 14.5:1 compression pistons with a new set of forged 10.5:1 and use Hellfire Rings. We decided to use Hellfire Rings due to the 500HP Nitrous shot that we are keeping on the car. We are going to swap the 750 lift solid roller for a more street friendly 650 lift hydraulic roller. The Victor, single plane manifold and 1150 Dominator Carburetor are being replaced by a dual plane manifold and Quick Fuel Holley 950. He is also installing a Speed Tech Fogger direct port nitrous system into the manifold. The motor is being shipped to Scott on Wednesday and should take 2 to 3 weeks to get rebuilt and back to me.

We are planning to pull the front end suspension and steering off on Monday, so we can prep the car for painting the sub frame, firewall and under hood area and then coat the bottom of the car with Lizard Skin, an undercoating type of protectant, which will allow me to just hose off the dirt & grime when the underside needs it.

Up front, the car will be receiving a new power rack and pinion, Global West tubular lower control arms, QA1 coil over front shocks and springs, a Hotchkis 1 1/8” front sway bar, CPP forged 2” drop spindles and Wilwood DP6 front brakes with 6 piston calipers and 12.2” rotors. The existing 4 way adjustable tubular upper control arms will remain on the car.

Here are some pictures of the car in my garage as we are pulling the motor.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_0668-1.jpg

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https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_0676-1.jpg

And my 1967 Top Sportsman Camaro in her new parking spot.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_0679-1.jpg

[Small Block LSX]

What a sweet project!

[hivewax]

Nice... glad to see another South Floridian.

[exwestracer]

Initially I am going to leave the rear suspension as is and see what it feels like. If it feels like driving a bus around the corners, the rear suspension will get redone. The car is mainly going to be driven on the street. I plan on taking it to the track, both drag and road course to see what it feels like and if it capable of handling it all.

Seriously, ditch the ladders. They are fine for drag racing, but will bind the rear suspension instantly when you try to turn at any kind of speed.

Look at a sway bar as an example. It limits roll to some extent by forcing both sides of the suspension to do the same thing. Now, a sway bar is flexible, so there is SOME freedom of movement from one side to the other.

Now look at how your ladder bars are attached to the axle. What you have there is essentially a giant sway bar setup...using the axle housing as the sway bar! You still have weight transfer in cornering, but that housing WON'T flex, so you have zero articulation (roll). What it will do is yank the inside right tire right off the ground. You don't see this in drag racing unless someone gets way out of shape and tries to power through it (which, I'm sure you've seen...).

I'd recommend converting the existing ladder bar setup into a parallel 4 link. Not much fab work involved in that. Lose the diagonal track locator in favor of the longest Panhard bar you can fit between the tires. Really you should put a longer housing under it and get the wheels back out to the fender lips to allow more room for a wider spring base and Panhard.

[TheKingOTW]

Seriously, ditch the ladders. They are fine for drag racing, but will bind the rear suspension instantly when you try to turn at any kind of speed.

Look at a sway bar as an example. It limits roll to some extent by forcing both sides of the suspension to do the same thing. Now, a sway bar is flexible, so there is SOME freedom of movement from one side to the other.

Now look at how your ladder bars are attached to the axle. What you have there is essentially a giant sway bar setup...using the axle housing as the sway bar! You still have weight transfer in cornering, but that housing WON'T flex, so you have zero articulation (roll). What it will do is yank the inside right tire right off the ground. You don't see this in drag racing unless someone gets way out of shape and tries to power through it (which, I'm sure you've seen...).

I'd recommend converting the existing ladder bar setup into a parallel 4 link. Not much fab work involved in that. Lose the diagonal track locator in favor of the longest Panhard bar you can fit between the tires. Really you should put a longer housing under it and get the wheels back out to the fender lips to allow more room for a wider spring base and Panhard.

The car has a 3 Link setup with a Panhard Bar. I am all ears if you want to make a recommendation but I am not following your explanation fully. I am not sure how a 4 link is going to perform better than what is in there now.

If you want to share some additional details on what you are saying, I am happy to listen and look into it. I am not married to any current suspension setup on the rear of the car. I am locked into the new front end components that are already ordered, which should work fine for what I am trying to accomplish.

Right now the tires are about 1" from the rear wheel well opening and 2" from the inner frame rail, so there really isn't much moving that can happen.

Is this the type of setup you are referring to?

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/0604phr_susp_01_z-1.jpg

[TheKingOTW]

Here is an interesting video comparing the 3 Link to the "Triangulated" 4 bar.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pq5LjV4lnV0&feature=player_embedded

[TheKingOTW]

I'd recommend converting the existing ladder bar setup into a parallel 4 link. Not much fab work involved in that. Lose the diagonal track locator in favor of the longest Panhard bar you can fit between the tires. Really you should put a longer housing under it and get the wheels back out to the fender lips to allow more room for a wider spring base and Panhard.

I think you meant triangulated 4 bar versus parallel 4 bar.

Art Morrison has a kit which looks like it would work pretty well.

http://www.artmorrison.com/2006cat/30.pdf

[TheKingOTW]

We stripped the front suspension out of the car today. I also took a good look at the rear suspension. I am going to call Art Morrison tomorrow and talk to them about their triangulated 4 bar rear suspension for the car. Ray got me thinking and I am going to do some research and see if Art Morrison can assist me with the design and manufacturing of the setup that they build and sell that fits my car. Below are some pictures of the motor waiting to be crated and shipped on Wednesday and the current rear suspension setup.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_04791-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_04851-1.jpg

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https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_04831-1.jpg

[exwestracer]

That is a ladder bar setup in there now, not a 3 link. The diagonal link I previously mentioned is the one (removed in your photos) that goes from the LF mounting bolt to the RR.

I only suggested the parallel 4 link as a simple solution that wouldn't require much fab work. It's not the best setup, but it's not the worst either, and it's fairly flexible to set up for handling or acceleration.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

You could use the existing axle brackets and add the front upper link mounts above and behind the ladder mounts.

Due to the narrowed rear frame in that car, a triangulated setup means you are either going to have to attach the upper links to the cast center and put the mounts through into the back seat area, or run VERY short upper links from the tubes over to the rails. There is a minimum included angle of about 60deg required to securely locate the axle side to side.

Hope this made sense...it's late and I'm tired.:sleeping::sleeping:

[Matt@BOS]

You have a seriously nasty car in the works right now. On the street and strip I'm sure it will destroy almost anything. I'm a bit worried for you on an autocross or road course though. I learned rather quickly that you can't put on 245 front tires and coilovers on, and expect to have a car that actually wants to go around corners compliantly at even moderate speed.

Matt

[TheKingOTW]

The rear suspension is coming along. We were out in Columbus, Ohio for Good Guy's this weekend and my friend Mike Adams, who owns Mars Chassis, and is one of the most talented fabricators I have ever seen, said he has a rear suspension figured out and he pulled the rear out for me on Friday and has been working on it this weekend. I am excited to see what he has done. I will post pics of the rear and suspension once it is complete.

[TheKingOTW]

Here are some pics of the car with the rear, motor and trans out and you can get a good idea of what we are working with. We stripped the interior out and you can really see how the floors are almost perfect, other than some minor cleanup that needs to be done. That's the benefit of working with a car that was turned into a race car in 1971 and has 4,231 original miles. Besides some rubber, from the slicks, in the wheel tubs and some 20 year old grime under the car and on the frame rails, everything looks great.

The parts are also starting to come in. I picked up a few items in Columbus from Ring Brothers, Detroit Speed and others and ordered the Billet Specialties rims and tires from Newstalgia. I went with Bonneville G's. 20X15 with a 5.5" BS for the rear, sporting Mickey Thompson Sportsman S/R Radials and 18X8 with 5.5" BS up front with Nitto NT555's.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_0909-1.jpg

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https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_0908-1.jpg

[TheKingOTW]

I made some progress on the car today. I pulled the nose off the car and started to strip off the 40 years of paint and grime that had built up on the sub frame. We test fit the new rear end setup and if fits like a glove. The only piece left on the rear is the anti-roll bar, which we needed to get the rear in place, before we ordered the components to make sure we had all of the measurements right.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_0500-1.jpg

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https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_0921-1.jpg

[1970 TT Rustang]

Looking good iam tuned in!

[chunger]

So you're keeping the ladder bar setup?

[TheKingOTW]

So you're keeping the ladder bar setup?

We pulled the old ladder bar setup out and replaced it with the setup you can see in the pics above. There was no option to do anything else but this kind of setup. We are working with a width between frame rails of 25". The car was originally designed for ladder bars and the way the frame angles up, it's more of a 45 degree angle instead of the way a four link setup would be where you would have a 90 degree angle in the frame rails, where it goes up in transition before the wheel tubs.

If you noticed, there will be no panhard bar or locater bar of any kind.

[Zanie]

How the heck will that rear end articulate?

[Motown 454]

It looking great.

[796spdbu]

Why didnt you just run lower links off of the frame mounts to the lower axle mounts and design a 3 link. You have room to run a upper link. I just dont see how that thing will hande a corner very well. Im no expert but commom knowledge says that thing is going to bind.
I dig your cars. But I cant see how thats going to be enjoyable.
Not picking your car,just curious as to your thoughts.

[TheKingOTW]

Why didnt you just run lower links off of the frame mounts to the lower axle mounts and design a 3 link. You have room to run a upper link. I just dont see how that thing will hande a corner very well. Im no expert but commom knowledge says that thing is going to bind.
I dig your cars. But I cant see how thats going to be enjoyable.
Not picking your car,just curious as to your thoughts.

There would be no room for upper bars. A 3 link wasn't an option or a 4 link or any other rear end setup without cutting out the rear frame of the car and all of the tin work, which is in perfect condition. Besides it being impossible to make work, we are dealing with frame rails that are 25 inches apart and a rear frame that was setup for ladder bars. I explained this in the posting above.

This rear end setup maybe a little deceiving, from the pictures. You probably don't realize it, but there are 8 heim joints in this rear end setup. There will be 4 more heim joints once the splined anti roll bar is added. There are only 2 pivot points, which are on the same plane, so it would be impossible to bind. There is no place for it to bind.

There is only one other car that has this exact rear end setup in it and I can tell you that it handles better than anything I have ever driven in. Whether it was on the street or track, it was like being glued to the road. I am not an engineer, but I can tell you that the guy who designed this, has been building and designing suspensions for 35+ years and fabricating some of the most unbelievable car stuff that would blow your mind. He has over a dozen Hot Rod Top 10 magazine cars that he designed and built and holds patents on different suspension components and systems that he engineered.

All I can say is that my faith is in Mike's engineering and work. Once the car's finished, we'll see if my judgment was sane, but I would venture to guess, it will be a sticky ride.....

[lotsofhp]

Oh man, I love pro-touring cars. But when I see drag cars like yours my heart still skips a beat. Those are two beautiful cars. I still dig drag racing!

[796spdbu]

I did read about the frame rail spacing and having no room. I was just curious as to the specs on the suspension. I didnt know that you didnt really want to redo the interior. Its cool that your guys has so many cool builds under his belt. Im not trying to doubt just trying to understand. Thanks for the info.

[cobraguy65]

Might be worth some more investigation. I would think ladder bars = no articulation = massive oversteer. What about a torque arm? Awesome car tho! Should be cool either way.

[TheKingOTW]

Might be worth some more investigation. I would think ladder bars = no articulation = massive oversteer. What about a torque arm? Awesome car tho! Should be cool either way.

That is what the heim joints are for. Full articulation, no bind....

Remember that this car will have 20X15 rims on the back with MT S/R Radials that are 31X18X20. Think about the geometry for a moment.

[724tim]

keep the pics coming and I love both of you cars.:cool:
did you sale the 67 ?
rMl6ywwp5VU

[Tig]

Looks great, nice work.
That rear end looks pretty beefy.
Looking forward to seeing it installed with those wheels/tires.

[Nessumsar]

What are the pro's and con's of a rear-end setup like that? It funny because I have a setup like that drawn on paper right now! I was trying to figure out how to make a 2-link that bolted to the stock leaf mounts.

Very cool.

[exwestracer]

Looking at that rear suspension setup, I'm left puzzled... https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_0921-1.jpg
That's the same type of thing we do on 4 link Jeep front ends to get rid of the short upper links, BUT the lower links are totally separate. No matter what, for the rear axle to articulate, the chassis mounts have to be able to rotate in relation to the axle mounts. The upper links you have on there will allow this, but you will be forcing the welded "H" lateral locating structure on the bottom to twist as the axle moves.

Try this: Disconnect one of the shocks, and that end of the housing should drop right down. If it doesn't, you are going to have a bind when cornering. The fact that you are holding it up with one jackstand has me worried... I really believe that H structure is going to act like a built in anti-roll bar, but one you can't tune...

Seriously hope I'm wrong here...

BTW, you probably could have put a true 4 link in by using the 2 upper holes in each ladder bar bracket to bolt on an extension piece that would locate the upper mount up near the floor.

[TheKingOTW]

Ray - I can appreciate your concerns. The jack stand is there so the car doesn't tumble off the back of the lift when we mocked up and test fit the rear. As you can see in the pictures above, the car has no front end, motor or transmission and would have tilted straight up in the air and flown off the back of the lift if we didn't support it. After we mocked up the rear on jack stands, lowered the car and bolted it in on the ground, 2 people had to sit on the front sub frame just to get the car up in the air.

As I stated above, a 4 link would not have worked based on the 25" frame rails and the angle of the frame and floor.

Think about what a sway bar does and how it is mounted in any triangulated 4 link or stock suspension setup. It basically does the same thing we have here. It connects the lower control arms in the suspension. The difference here is that we have 6 connection points to the chassis and rear instead of 8, (excluding the shock mounting points). This setup also has 8 connection points and all of these points have heim joints to allow for articulation without bind. The link arms are chrome molly and give much more than steel.

Remember that we are not trying to build a Formula One race car here. We are building a street car that has 18.7" wide tires on the rear. How much travel do you think this rear suspension would need when articulating the angles of the tread on two 18.7" wide tires?

As I stated in my previous post, I have complete confidence in the designer, engineer and builder of this rear suspension setup.

The car should be completely done in 6-8 weeks. I will be posting updates frequently and hopefully video of the car at the track and on the street once completed.

Stay Tuned.

[Zanie]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_0913-1.jpg








I think you may be confusing adjustablity with articulation. All those joints make it very adjustable. But, if the rear suspension could articulate, you'd need a forth jack stand here.
Not that it matters with that big of a tire anyway. I'm sure it will be very cool and very fun!
You've got allot of footage at rt66 and il plates on the 67 are you an illinois transplant?

[TheKingOTW]

Dan - I'm originally from NY and moved to Florida in 1995. The car was built in IL and that is why you see lots of testing footage at RT66. It's a great track.

Getting back to the suspension, I'm not confused. I'm pretty clear on this setup and understand the difference between adjustablity and articulation.

Think about having a stock rear triangulated 4 link suspension with a rear end that is 60" wide, with 9" wide tires. Now think about the mounting points of the bars in the 4 link. Now consider travel and articulation from those connection points and the geometry of how the rear end articulates.

Now take my rear end which is 40" wide, and think about how it will articulate with 2 pivot points that are 22" wide, with heim joints, and add 2 - 18.7" tires at each end. For everything to be equal, if my suspension articulates 6-8 degrees, the 60" rear suspension would have to articulate 15-18 degrees. Almost double the amount for the geometry to be the same. Then consider the difference between 9" tires and 18.7" tires and the tread that actually comes into contact with the pavement. Its all about the amount of tread and angle of the tread on the pavement, isn't it?

Is this making more sense now? The total articulation in my rear suspension setup may need to be 5-6 degrees where a normal length rear suspension might need 12-18 degrees.

Again, this is a street car. This car will be on the 2011 Hot Rod Power Tour and we plan on driving it 4000 miles over a 10-12 day timeframe. It's not a road racing, drag racing or stock racing car. It's a street car that will make it to the track every once in a while for fun.

When its done, you be the judge on how it handles. I'll post videos, pics and times...

[TheKingOTW]

Here is a quick update for the last week.

Since the entire front end of the car was pulled apart, we stripped, ground, filled and sanded the sub frame and firewall, cleaned them up and epoxy primed and painted both. We installed the upper and lower control arms, coilovers, rack and pinion, sway bar and Wilwood 6 piston brakes. We finished the underneath of the car and painted the frame rails. Then we taped off the the frame and rails and lined the entire underside of the car with Lizard Skin. Hopefully, this will help keep some of the heat off the floors. We are going to coat everything underneath the car with Hippo Liner tomorrow and give the firewall a sanding with 600 and a final coat of paint.

Here is what is on our to do list this coming week:

The engine should be shipping back from Schafiroff on Tuesday and if we have it by Friday, we will drop it in. When I spoke to Scott last week, he told me it should be on the Dyno Monday or Tuesday.

We are going to finishing cleaning out and prepping the inside of the car for Lizard Skin on the floor and foot wells. Then Dynomat the floors, inside firewall, lower portion of inside the doors and portions of the trunk. I have opted to repaint the car. Don't ask me why but we are going to go BLACK. Since the car is getting a carbon fiber hood, cowl panel and header panel, it should look pretty nice in black. So the sanding and prepping of the body will start this coming week as well.

Here are some pictures of where we are.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_0922-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_0924-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_0925-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_0933-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_0939-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_0948-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_0949-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_0950-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_0956-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_0953-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_0958-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_0962-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_0963-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_0965-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_0967-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_0969-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_0975-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_0979-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_0985-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_0986-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_0983-1.jpg

[TheKingOTW]

We made some progress this week. The suspension is done in the rear and front of the car. The underside of the car is finished, other than running the brake and fuel lines and battery cables from the back to the front. We finished painting the frame rails and sub frame, put a coat of lizard skin on the entire underside and inside of the car and then layered 2 coats of Hippo Liner on the underside of the floor pans. The anti roll bar was welded in and the rear end was installed today. The NOS bottle and bracket were finished as well.

We pulled the doors and trunk lid and are starting to block the entire car to get it ready for paint. I am figuring there will be about 100 hours of blocking.

Here are some pics.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_0992-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_0998-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1004-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1005-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1007-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1009-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1010-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1018-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1016-1.jpg

[TheKingOTW]

We made some progress on the build today. We installed Dynomat in the car this morning, finished sanding the firewall and gave it a final coat of paint. We also painted the dash, glove box and ashtray doors. The roll bar received a final coat of paint as well. We started blocking the body. I am figuring that there will be about 100 hours of blocking, so we started on the fenders and made it to the rear quarter and will work our way around the car on the first pass. When we pulled the doors off this weekend, I decided to go for a new pair of door shells. The original doors had some previous work done and I thought it would be a better route to just strip the hardware and toss the old door shells for a fresh pair. The motor is scheduled to be delivered tomorrow, so we will start to get that fitted and install the new column and steering shafts. Hopefully there won’t be a ton of work needed to clear the headers.

Here are some pics:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1020-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1021-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1025-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1029-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1030-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1042-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1043-1.jpg

[69X22]

looking nice what wheels and tires are you going with?

[TheKingOTW]

looking nice what wheels and tires are you going with?

I ordered Billet Specialties Bonneville-G for the car. I am putting 20X15 on the back and 18X8 on the front. I will be running Mickey Thompson S/R Radials on the back, 31X18X20 and Nitto NT555 245/40/18 up front. The wheels and tires should be delivered in about a week or so.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/BISVS35G-1.jpg

[TheKingOTW]

I installed the Hushmat in the trunk today. I got the stereo stuff all figured out and measured for boxes and decided on placements. The motor will be dropped in tomorrow to make sure headers don't interfere with steering shafts and new rack and sway bar clear the oil pan. More blocking on the body as well.

We're moving along ahead of schedule.....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1052-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1049-1.jpg

[Motown 454]

That came out awesome! Nice work. I was looking at the subframe, I wish I had mine notched for the oil pan. I have a Milodon stroker pan I hope it fits. Your came out sweet.

[TheKingOTW]

The new door shells and the motor arrived today. Since the motor showed up around 4:00, we didn't have enough time to put it in. That's on the schedule for tomorrow morning, plus installing the rear brakes, brake and fuel lines, fuel pump and new fuel cell, assuming it's ready to be picked up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1057-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1059-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1060-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1062-1.jpg

BTW: The motor made 688HP@5800 RPM, without the nitrous. The direct port nitrous system is adjustable and can add up to an additional 500HP.

[GHOSTDANCER]

Thats some serious progress :cheers:

[TheKingOTW]

Thats some serious progress :cheers:

When I started to plan this project, I wanted to complete it in 12 weeks, from start to finish. It feels like we are right on schedule. We have about another 2 weeks or so to get the body done and ready for paint. The motor will be test fitted today to make sure the headers and oil pan fit with the new rack and pinion and sway bar to ensure we have sufficient clearances for the steering shafts.

Next week we will install the new wiring harness for the car and try and get most of the electronics in place.

Stay Tuned....

[strtcar]

great progress, can't wait to see more.

[Chevrolaine]

Awesome, love the wheel choice!

[TheKingOTW]

A quick update for today's work...

We got the rear brakes installed, a little dusty but on the car. I think I have learned that you cannot do body work in the same shop as mechanical work because everything becomes enthralled in a dust cloud. There is body work dust everywhere. A lesson for next time...

We installed the front brakes lines and line lock and dropped the motor in between the frame rails. Tomorrow we are going to fit the headers and then hopefully the steering shafts and continue to block the car.

We're moving along, on track and making progress daily.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1087-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1088-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1082-1.jpg

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https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1078-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1074-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1067-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1070-1.jpg

[Vegas69]

I'm diggin the project but it's Pro-Street. I just don't see anyway to make a 8" and 16" tire work well together. It's going to push like a dump truck.

[TheKingOTW]

I'm diggin the project but it's Pro-Street. I just don't see anyway to make a 8" and 16" tire work well together. It's going to push like a dump truck.

You make it sound like Pro Street is a bad word to use on this site, although I disagree with you... The nice thing about building a car that's yours is that you get to build it the way you want and nothing anyone else say's matters, because they don't have a say.

The benefit of having many cars is that you can build each one of them a different way and the way you want them, just as I have.

I'm glad you're diggin the build and can assure you it will handle better than a dump truck.

[Vegas69]

I agree, that's the beauty of this hobby, building what YOU want. Don't take it personal, I just noticed you mentioned road racing and I have a fair amount of time behind the wheel of my car autocrossing and road racing. Even with a 335/275 combo it's hard to make these cars turn since they are so nose heavy. I'm a big block guy as well. I have a ZL-1 489 in my car. I'll be following along.

[TheKingOTW]

Todd - How would you take it if someone commented on your build that it was going to handle like a dump truck? I don't take your comments personally.

It's cool, I have no problem with people sharing their opinions. That's what this forum is all about. All I would ask is that you comment the way you would want someone commenting on your build.

I'm glad to see you following the build.

[twosaturns]

it's cool to follow a build that goes so fast! it's like instant gratification compared to some builds I've been following on here for YEARS.
cool you used a Shaffiroff engine; I met Scott once like 20+ years ago, they built a set of heads for me, always liked that shop.

[454bug]

Great progress and everything is looking good!! :twothumbs

Dude, do you have a REAL job?? I can't figure out how you have the time to get all this done so quickly and still work for a livin'...

If you are indedendently wealthy, what's your thoughts on adoption??? :fingersx:

[Vegas69]

Todd - How would you take it if someone commented on your build that it was going to handle like a dump truck? I don't take your comments personally.

It's cool, I have no problem with people sharing their opinions. That's what this forum is all about. All I would ask is that you comment the way you would want someone commenting on your build.

I'm glad to see you following the build.

It's just a figure of speech. Back to the good stuff.

[TheKingOTW]

It's interesting what a little body work will tell you about a car. Since this car has been a race car most of it's life, since 1971, all of the paint jobs that it has had are still on it. The car started out life green. As you can see in the picture below, it was then painted yellow, maroon, blue and finally orange. The car was partially orange and in primer when I bought it years ago and I painted it silver/gray, as you can see in the picture here on the site. I guess even a car with only 4300 original miles still gets painted a lot when it only goes to the track its whole life.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1095-1.jpg

[Josue]

Hahaha...that's cool!

We always laugh at the layers of paint we discover on cars in the shop. (I'm a body tech)

[LS3 HQ]

Pro Street or Pro Touring, its dam cool and your car to do what you want. Love those wheels your going to use

Luke

[69X22]

I ordered Billet Specialties Bonneville-G for the car. I am putting 20X15 on the back and 18X8 on the front. I will be running Mickey Thompson S/R Radials on the back, 31X18X20 and Nitto NT555 245/40/18 up front. The wheels and tires should be delivered in about a week or so.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/BISVS35G-1.jpg

Nice!!! Are you going back with the Yenko stripes?

[TheKingOTW]

Nice!!! Are you going back with the Yenko stripes?

No, I am not putting the Yenko stripes back on the car. It is going to be black with satin/brushed trim. There will be no polished chrome on the car. The windshield and back glass moldings, door handles (from Ring Brothers) and back bumper will be a satin finish. The front bumper is an Endura Bumper, so it will be black as well. I also had some very cool ZL1 emblems made for the car. The only polished metal on the outside of the car will be the wheel hoops.

[TheKingOTW]

What's better than cutting up a set of $800 Hooker Super Competition Headers to fit the steering shaft for the Unisteer Rack & Pinion.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_05171-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_05151-1.jpg

Here is the passenger side header wrapped and fitted.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_2213-1.jpg

There is nothing more important than making sure your body seams are aligned perfectly. And the blocking continues....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_2221-1.jpg

[TheKingOTW]

It's been a few weeks since my last update so I thought I would post some pics and details of what we have been doing.

The 4L85E Supermatic showed up today and will be put in tomorrow.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1213-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1211-1.jpg

The interior is all in, besides the custom door panels and we have been mocking it up and laying it out to see what needs to be done and tweaked.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1199-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1208-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1209-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1197-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1198-1.jpg

The wheels and tires showed up today and we mounted them on the car. We had to re-taper the steering arm to raise the outer tie rod up about a 1/4" to clear the rim but it now fits perfectly.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1188-2.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1191-2.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1189-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1206-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1204-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1205-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1207-1.jpg

We installed the Front Runner System and Ron Davis Cross Flow Radiator.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1200-1.jpg

The car is just about ready for it's first coat of high build primer. We plan on giving it three coats tomorrow and doing some major blocking.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1203-1.jpg

The trunk is finished, before trimming it out. The 2 batteries are in, the fuel cell (28 Gallons)and A-2000 pump are in.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_1210-1.jpg

I am hoping to have the car ready for paint within a week or so. I am getting really tired of the 2 inches of sanding dust that fill the shop and get all over everything. I will post new updates as they are completed. I am still shooting for an October 1st completion. (12 weeks start to finish)

[Zanie]

Nice progress.
I see the old color layers. I'm curious as to why you wouldn't strip off the previous 6 paint jobs before painting it black.

[TheKingOTW]

Nice progress.
I see the old color layers. I'm curious as to why you wouldn't strip off the previous 6 paint jobs before painting it black.

I decided not to strip the entire car because we measured the thickness of the paint all over the car and the most we had was 12 Mil., averaging about 9-10 all around. Because of this, there was no need to strip the car.

[Ripped]

I love the look of the car, and I love the dish on the rear wheels.

What kind of stuff are you doing to the rear suspension, to counter the teeter-totter effect (while cornering) of a narrowed rear spring perch/suspension mount

[Chevrolaine]

Nice, Lovin the wheels!

[chunger]

What's that console out of?

[Josue]

The rear wheels are outrageous!! Love 'em!!

[CarQz17]

Yeah, seats and console info please!

[TheKingOTW]

Yeah, seats and console info please!

Seats are 2011 Mustang GT and console is 2010 Challenger.

[dodge]

I am liking this build.I can see how people feel it still has the pro street look about it.....I think it is Pro-Cool:cheers:

Cheers Joe

[69face]

looks awesome! keep up the good work!

[TheKingOTW]

I am liking this build.I can see how people feel it still has the pro street look about it.....I think it is Pro-Cool:cheers:

Cheers Joe

Joe - I'm glad your liking the build. I'm liking it too. It's all about the build. People can call it whatever they like, Pro Touring, Pro Street or even Pro Cool, it doesn't matter. It's about building a car the way you want it built and the entire process from start to finish.

People might look at my Chevelle and say it's Pro Touring or maybe not because it's got 1080 Horsepower. Does it really matter what people call your project. I would say not...

I'm just happy to be working on it and building it the way I want.

Here is the Chevelle for the Pro Touring purists or not :).

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSCN0634-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSCN0637-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSCN0633-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSCN0627-1.jpg

[bonecrrusher]

HOLYSH*T... Procharged 572??? Damnnn!

[twosaturns]

Seats are 2011 Mustang GT and console is 2010 Challenger.
holy crap, I haven't even seen a '11 mustang yet and you already have the seats from one!

[TheKingOTW]

I picked up some exhaust parts on Friday, mocked up & tacked the exhaust today. Originally I was going to use oval exhaust for clearance, but decided to go with 3" round and Borla XR-1's instead. I'll weld it tomorrow, coat it then install it once I finish the driver seat pan on Tuesday. The car has had it's first 3 coats of high build primer and a guide coat and we will start blocking on Tuesday as well.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/IMG_1237-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/IMG_1239-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/IMG_1240-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/IMG_1243-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/IMG_1248-1.jpg

[69bigblok]

Wow enjoying this thread! Great work. I have a prostreet 69 camaro and wanting to move toward protouring so this is cool to see.

[Tig]

Your build is coming along man, looks great.

As for the Chevelle. Holy ****, THAT is an amazing looking car. ProCharged 572 gave me a chubby.


People might look at my Chevelle and say it's Pro Touring or maybe not because it's got 1080 Horsepower. Does it really matter what people call your project. I would say not...

I'm just happy to be working on it and building it the way I want.

Here is the Chevelle for the Pro Touring purists or not :).

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSCN0634-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSCN0637-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSCN0633-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSCN0627-1.jpg

[TheKingOTW]

Here is a quick update on the progress. We have the final coat of black high build primer on the car with a gray guide coat over the top. We are now in the final blocking phase and plan on painting it on Saturday, 9/25. Here are a few pictures of the car. The car should sit about 1 1/2 inches lower in the front and about 2 1/2 inches lower in the rear once it is done.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/IMG_1467-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/IMG_1468-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/IMG_1470-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/IMG_1464-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/IMG_1465-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/IMG_1473-1.jpg

[CruizinKev]

holy cow!!!!! in other words omg siiiick! :twothumbs

[hivewax]

Have you tried cornering with those big meats in the back?!

[srh3trinity]

The Chevelle is pro-touring by default because it has Forgelines. That is a great looking Chevelle. The Camaro is shaping up nicely. The wheels look great, it reminds me of Johnson's Sledgehammer Camaro.

[TheKingOTW]

Have you tried cornering with those big meats in the back?!

It corners like a Formula 1 race car... when I push it on and off the lift.... but only on Thursday's.

[TheKingOTW]

A friend of mine came up with this steering wheel from a 2008 Ferrari, so I figured I would see if I could make it work. I thought it might be a cool addition to my project. Here are a few pictures of the wheel and it mocked up. I am not 100% I can make it work yet, but am going to give it a try. It has an RPM indicator and shift light built into the top of the wheel, horn buttons and paddle shifters on the back, which I can tie into my 4L85E Supermatic. Pretty Cool!

Thoughts?

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/IMG_1476-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/IMG_1478-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/IMG_1480-1.jpg

[monteboy84]

I think your steering wheel cost more than my car . . . I like it :smoke:

-matt

[Chevy24]

This will be a great looking Camaro. Is it a real numbers matching Yenko, or a Yenko tribute? Yenko tributes are just fine, as they can be driven.
Keep us posted on your progress....

[TheKingOTW]

I think your steering wheel cost more than my car . . . I like it

-matt

The steering wheel was a freebie from a friend. He told me the wheel cost $8500 from Ferrari.


This will be a great looking Camaro. Is it a real numbers matching Yenko, or a Yenko tribute? Yenko tributes are just fine, as they can be driven.
Keep us posted on your progress....

Originally, the car was not a Yenko. If it was, I would be doing a complete restoration back to original. This car has only 4325 original miles on it and was turned into a race car (drag car) in 1971. It will not be getting the Yenko stripping back when it's done.

[monteboy84]

The steering wheel was a freebie from a friend. He told me the wheel cost $8500 from Ferrari.

Good friend to have! Would definitely be a cool conversation piece if you can make it work.

-matt

[Ron.in.SoCal]

Good friend to have! Would definitely be a cool conversation piece if you can make it work.

-matt

Especially the 'sport mode' suspension settings! :idea:

[chunger]

Is the spine count the same between a chevy and a Ferrari?

[TheKingOTW]

Is the spine count the same between a chevy and a Ferrari?

No, couldn't be that lucky. I assume the wheel has a metric spline. Although, the good news is that the spline in the wheel is slightly smaller, so it can be re-machined.

[78 Type-LT]

cool build

[TheKingOTW]

Here is what the steering wheel looks like with the center cover on it. I think it will look better with a Chevrolet emblem in the middle.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/FerrariGTO5992010Interior-1.jpg

[Steve Chryssos]

Very cool build and good to see another New Yorker in Florida. If the Ferrari wheel doesn't work out, call us for a turn key solution.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/camp_0906_041969_chevy_camaro_ssgauge_cl-1.jpg

http://www.twistmachine.com/

And for those that don't understand, this is a functional pro street car. .....Overdrive, disc brakes, radials. Get it? We did something similar for drag racer Tony Bartone back in 2003. No one understood the concept then, either. Here, read this:

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/features/0305phr_1969_chevrolet_camaro/index.html

[dusterbd13]

i just wanna know:
why the hell does a ferrarri have a snow mode?

[bonecrrusher]

It snows in Italy?

[neki67]

It snows in Italy?

Alpes and Dolomites are actually not too far from the Ferrari factory.

[bonecrrusher]

Alpes and Dolomites are actually not too far from the Ferrari factory.

OT: British TV:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IUaH-dw7FzI

Lambo, not a Ferrari - but it fits in the conversation...

[TheKingOTW]

Not to change the snow subject here, but I found a good video of the Chevelle on the Dyno, popping the breather off at 5800 RPM. The car made 1082HP.


rSOdaNRo3ZM

[bonecrrusher]

Jesus... awesome!!!

[marolf101x]

As soon as I saw the suspension selector on the wheel I thought it would be killer if you could hook that up to our Select Series electronically selectable shocks:
http://www.ridetech.com/store/suspension-components/components-hardware/aluminum-shocks/select-series-shock-10.6-comp-x-14.75-ext.html

[TheKingOTW]

As soon as I saw the suspension selector on the wheel I thought it would be killer if you could hook that up to our Select Series electronically selectable shocks:
http://www.ridetech.com/store/suspension-components/components-hardware/aluminum-shocks/select-series-shock-10.6-comp-x-14.75-ext.html

The car is currently setup with QA-1 coilovers on all 4 corners. These shocks don't appear to use a coilover, so I don't think they would work, but could be an interesting idea...

[John Wright]

Jesus... awesome!!!
^^What he said....wow, built up some pressure in that breather...huh?

[TheKingOTW]

^^What he said....wow, built up some pressure in that breather...huh?

And that is with a vacuum pump, that pulls 6-7 inches, that turns on at 2500RPM.

It puts out a lot of boost for a 572, with a Procharger D-1SC.

[wblanton]

you have so many cool rides you probably wouldnt even notice if you accidentally signed one of the titles over to me, like that Chevelle... That baby is smoking!!! I wouldnt want to see any of them lined up beside me at a drag strip.. Cool build cant wait to see it finished up

[TheKingOTW]

you have so many cool rides you probably wouldnt even notice if you accidentally signed one of the titles over to me, like that Chevelle... That baby is smoking!!! I wouldnt want to see any of them lined up beside me at a drag strip.. Cool build cant wait to see it finished up

I think I might miss one of them if they weren't sitting where they were supposed to be.

I can't wait for the Camaro to be done either.... I am getting so close, I can taste it. We had planned on spraying it tomorrow but it needs a little more detail work to try and make it as perfect as possible. No point in rushing the last few days and missing something! We are now going to shoot for Thursday to spray it.

Stay Tuned.

[marolf101x]

Keep an eye on our website for the coil-over version of our Select Series shocks. With any luck I'll be approving the coil-over sleeve this weekend. We already have a TON of Hyperco springs in the warehouse, so the addition of coil-over Select won't take long!

I have to admit, I hate this thread! About 0.2 seconds after seeing that steering wheel I started looking on the web for a Ferrari wheel.
Just what my Camaro needs (should I ever get it far enough along to actually require a steering wheel.)

[TheKingOTW]

Keep an eye on our website for the coil-over version of our Select Series shocks. With any luck I'll be approving the coil-over sleeve this weekend. We already have a TON of Hyperco springs in the warehouse, so the addition of coil-over Select won't take long!

I have to admit, I hate this thread! About 0.2 seconds after seeing that steering wheel I started looking on the web for a Ferrari wheel.
Just what my Camaro needs (should I ever get it far enough along to actually require a steering wheel.)

If you want to donate a set to this project, I'll be happy to swap them out and be your Guinea Pig for testing....

[BonzoHansen]

It snows in Italy?

the winter Olympics were there a few years ago

[TheKingOTW]

We finished up the back bumper yesterday. Instead of working with the original bumper and welding up all of the bolt holes, I decided to buy a bumper with no exposed bumper bolts from Year One. When I first mocked it up, it sat about 1 1/2" from the rear pan of the car and stuck out 1 1/8" - 1 1/2" from the quarter panels on both sides. In other words if fit like crap and it looked even worse. What should I really have expected from a Taiwanese stamping. We ended up cutting out about 3/4" from each end to suck it into the corners and straightening up the lines on the edges. Now there is about an 1/8" between the bumper and the car all of the way around. We also had to cut and weld the brackets to get it right. We are going to finish sanding it and get some high build and epoxy primer on it so it will be ready for paint.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/IMG_1485-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/IMG_1488-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/IMG_1490-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/IMG_1492-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/IMG_1493-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/IMG_1484-1.jpg

[bryster]

Nice car, Even nicer garage... Pretty fast I bet.

[TheKingOTW]

Nice car, Even nicer garage... Pretty fast I bet.

Thanks. The garage is nice to work in since it has A/C, especially being in Florida.

I don't know how fast it is yet. This motor used to run 8.80's in the car before I pulled it all apart and sent the motor to Schafiroff to get de-tuned. It would be tough running 14.5:1 compression on the street with an 800+ lift solid roller.... It made 688HP on the dyno after the de-tune (865HP plus a 500 HP plate system before). I also have a direct port nitrous system on the fresh motor, which hasn't been tested yet. I am sure it will put me back in the seat, especially when I hit the button and have an extra 500HP on demand.

[colt zantop]

looking great! keep those updates coming!

[jonesmoto]

You had said that you retapered the steering arms to make them fit. I am installing a Unisteer rack in a 67 Camaro and have 18x8 Forgelines on the front and they just hit the arms. Could you please explain what you did to the arms and maybe post a couple a pics of them. Thanks. By the way, the build is very cool.

[TheKingOTW]

You had said that you retapered the steering arms to make them fit. I am installing a Unisteer rack in a 67 Camaro and have 18x8 Forgelines on the front and they just hit the arms. Could you please explain what you did to the arms and maybe post a couple a pics of them. Thanks. By the way, the build is very cool.

Are they hitting the arm or the bottom of the ball joint?

[TheKingOTW]

We finally got all of the parts and jams cut in and we are doing some final prep work and spotting in a few areas before it goes to paint. We rolled the car outside to get a better look at everything in the daylight. We will be re-assembling the body this afternoon, and are all set for the paint booth on Saturday.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/IMG_1504-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/IMG_1505-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/IMG_1507-1.jpg

Here is a picture of some of the panels cut in. You can see the inside of the fenders that have been coated with Hippo Liner.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/IMG_1494-1.jpg

[jonesmoto]

Are they hitting the arm or the bottom of the ball joint?
They are hitting the ball joint. I thought about spacing the steering arm away from the spindle. I do not need much, maybe 1/4". Just curious what you did.

[TheKingOTW]

They are hitting the ball joint. I thought about spacing the steering arm away from the spindle. I do not need much, maybe 1/4". Just curious what you did.

I had the same problem. Spacing the steering arm won't help and all it will do is throw of the geometry of the steering. If you look inside the hole in the steering arm, you will see it is tapered. The ball joint shaft is also tapered. You need to get a tapered reamer, I think it was a 7 degree reaming bit, put it on your electric drill, (must be a very slow drill) and slowly run the reamer up through the bottom of the steering arm. This will raise the amount that the ball joint shaft will go up into the steering arm and fix your problem. At least it did for me.

It is very important to work very slowly and ream in small increments. If you go to much, you will have to throw out your steering arms and buy new ones and start all over again.

I hope this info helps.

[jonesmoto]

Thanks for the information. Do you remember where you bought the reaming tool at? Thanks.

[TheKingOTW]

Thanks for the information. Do you remember where you bought the reaming tool at? Thanks.

I borrowed it. Check Google. There are a lot of companies that sell tapered reamers. They are not cheap.

This is what it looks like:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/92180770-1.jpg

[dhutton]

Thanks for the information. Do you remember where you bought the reaming tool at? Thanks.

This one is good quality:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200520805104

[TheKingOTW]

We made some progress today. I brought the car to the paint booth late yesterday and spent today taping it up and getting 2 coats of epoxy primer on it. We plan on painting it tomorrow morning. Here are some pictures of the car in the booth.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_1516-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_1524-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_1520-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_1531-1.jpg

[dusterbd13]

theres just something about an epoxy primer black tubbed camaro that i dig.

[TheKingOTW]

We painted the car this morning. We are going to bring it back to the shop tomorrow and start the wiring. I hope to have it wet sanded and buffed by Friday. I am figuring about another 2-3 weeks or so before it is fully completed. Today it is exactly 12 weeks from when I started this project.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_1534-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_1535-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_1543-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_1542-1.jpg

[chavezdel]

Lovely build... and just for the record I dig the direction you took on the build. Not a Drag or PT, but I'm sure it could hang with both parties if you wanted to.

[TheKingOTW]

The car is back at the shop and here are a few pics of the car painted, sitting on the ground.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_1566-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_15591-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_15601-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_1564-1.jpg

[moparnate]

awesome!

[GHOSTDANCER]

Unique :1st::cheers:

[Wicked69]

Relly nice & brutal build!
What tire/wheel dimensions are you using?
Have almost the same, but CoysWheels to my 69 ;-)

[John Wright]

Shiny!.....looks good. I could smell that fresh paint when I opened the forum this morning....LOL

[TheKingOTW]

Relly nice & brutal build!
What tire/wheel dimensions are you using?
Have almost the same, but CoysWheels to my 69 ;-)

The wheels are 20X15 with M/T 31X18X20 S/R Radial and the fronts are 18X8 with Nitto 245/40/18 NT555.

[strtcar]

great looking build, one of my favorites.

[TheKingOTW]

great looking build, one of my favorites.

It's turning out great. The paint looks phenomenal, even before it's wet sanded. I am very happy with the progress, excited to get it done and take it for a spin.

[Olav]

Like it...

[bramel1967]

awesome cars, great build. May not run with Jackass on the track but you damn sure do not waste any time. Can you post some pics of what I think was a 69 or so charger?

[454bug]

GREAT build!! :1st:

Paint looks awesome. I'm sure you'll really enjoy this car!

Thanks for sharing. :twothumbs

[TheKingOTW]

awesome cars, great build. May not run with Jackass on the track but you damn sure do not waste any time. Can you post some pics of what I think was a 69 or so charger?

Do you mean this Charger :) ?

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/benderchargerrear12-1.jpg



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/chargerback-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/68chargerfrt1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/68chargerfrt22-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/68chargerfrt33-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/68chargerfrt42-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/68chargerfrt52-1.jpg

[bramel1967]

whats the story on it? Future project. That is my favorite Dodge

[bramel1967]

that black concept is badass

[TheKingOTW]

whats the story on it? Future project. That is my favorite Dodge

It's a friends project.

[TheKingOTW]

Here are some pictures of the progress. The blocking is done and I am working on getting the buffing finished today. We are continuing to assemble everything as we move along and are working on having the car wired in a few more days. My goal of a November 1 completion looks promising.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_1576small-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_1578small-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_1574small-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_1573small-1.jpg

[Josue]

Can't wait to see it done!!!

[prostreet69camaro]

Awesome build. I am a prostreet guy but I like what you are doing.

I had the SR Radial 33 x 22 x 15 on my prostreet camaro and hated them. They made my car rock/sway bad when I hit it hard and it got worse the faster it went. They are a great street tire. I ended up selling them and putting 33 x 22 x 15 quick time pros back on it and the problem went away.

I think the belts were twisting on the side walls. You might not have this problems since they are a 18" instead of the 15" tire.

And again,, awesome car,,you will have fun with it.

[Motown 454]

Very Nice! I love it.

[TheKingOTW]

Awesome build. I am a prostreet guy but I like what you are doing.

I had the SR Radial 33 x 22 x 15 on my prostreet camaro and hated them. They made my car rock/sway bad when I hit it hard and it got worse the faster it went. They are a great street tire. I ended up selling them and putting 33 x 22 x 15 quick time pros back on it and the problem went away.

I think the belts were twisting on the side walls. You might not have this problems since they are a 18" instead of the 15" tire.

And again,, awesome car,,you will have fun with it.

The rears are actually 20" and the fronts are 18".

[TheKingOTW]

It's starting to come together.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_1600-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_1591-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_1589-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_1595-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_1599-1.jpg

[bonecrrusher]

Wheres the CF goodies from?

[MrBlonde]

As another drag racer I just wanted to say that your rear tire setup is the best looking I've seen here all time. I love it.

[69Z28FREAK]

This would be my first reply to my first thread viewing here, and this thread just kicked my butt, Could there or is their a ,meaner 69 Camaro? If there is just let me know, so I can go drool, but I have a hard time believing there is. This car is sick and building up from an already mean Yenko drag car. It might not get any better than this? Not bad for my first class on the first day of school. Pro-touring school that is. I hope to see ya'll around the halls. This school kiks Ass!

[TheKingOTW]

Wheres the CF goodies from?

Anvil - Cowl, Header, Close Out Panel and Hood

[ArtosDracon]

If you can have it done for Nov. 1 that would be perfect, that's my birthday, I'll even come to florida to pick it up if you need.

[TheKingOTW]

I'm making some progress and getting through my list of things to finish pretty quickly.

Here are some pictures of the progress.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_1619s-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_1620s-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_1623s-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_1604s-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_1606s-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_1612s-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_1615s-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_1617s-1.jpg

[Motown 454]

It looks great.

[Kybosh]

This build thread is an incredible inspiration to go out and get some work done. All of your cars and everything you do is just top shelf work. Thanks for posting this.

[sportcoupe]

I'm just new to PT and I found this by Googlin' PowerTour, came across your blog. I think I read it... well alot.
I think I want to try the 2011 PowerTour and trying to get my car ready. It looks like lots of fun and something everyone has to do at least once.

Your Camaro is definately killer!
There is just soooo much here at PT I'm spending hours here where I should be in the garage.

Like Kybosh says...

"This build thread is an incredible inspiration to go out and get some work done. All of your cars and everything you do is just top shelf work. Thanks for posting this."

[GT500KR_Vert]

very nice build - that has to be a record for getting it done so quickly

[TheKingOTW]

I'm just new to PT and I found this by Googlin' PowerTour, came across your blog. I think I read it... well alot.
I think I want to try the 2011 PowerTour and trying to get my car ready. It looks like lots of fun and something everyone has to do at least once.

Your Camaro is definately killer!
There is just soooo much here at PT I'm spending hours here where I should be in the garage.

Like Kybosh says...

"This build thread is an incredible inspiration to go out and get some work done. All of your cars and everything you do is just top shelf work. Thanks for posting this."

The Power Tour is awesome. The Camaro will be on it next year.

The car is actually coming along nicely. Taking a week off to go to SEMA in Vegas has taken a little bite out of my work schedule, but I have made some major progress this week. I will take some pics and post them tomorrow with an update. You will be amazed to see what changes have occurred since my last posting with pics.

Thanks for following the build. I am glad your liking it as much as I am.

[TheKingOTW]

Here are some pics to update the progress. I will get some fresh one's up tomorrow as well. (When it's all cleaned up)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/IMG_1671-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/IMG_1672-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/IMG_1673-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/IMG_1676-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/IMG_1683-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/IMG_1681-1.jpg

[69X22]

Beautiful! Who makes those black fuel hoses? Are they Teflon lined? Are those Gates heat shrink hose clamps? Man it's almost hard to believe it's the same car.

[TheKingOTW]

Beautiful! Who makes those black fuel hoses? Are they Teflon lined? Are those Gates heat shrink hose clamps? Man it's almost hard to believe it's the same car.

You can buy the black braided nylon hose from a few places but Summit brands someone's hose and it is usually the cheapest. It is not Teflon lined. Yes, they are the Gates shrink hose clamps. You can get them from Jegs or Speedway.

[TheKingOTW]

I made some progress today getting the stereo components in, mounted and wired. The Nitrous system is also complete. The dash and console are just about ready to get installed as well. My short list is getting shorter. I am shooting for Wednesday to have the rest of the wiring connections done and firing her up. Here are some pics of the inside.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/IMG_1709-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/IMG_1704-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/IMG_1698-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/IMG_1701-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/IMG_1697-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/IMG_17031-1.jpg

[chunger]

That console looks nice - what is it from?

[ModernMuseum]

Very nice. I'm also interested in the main console details.

[TheKingOTW]

That console looks nice - what is it from?

The seats are from a 2011 Mustang (which was in a previous post) and the console is from a 2010 Challenger. I did recover the arm rest with the seat material, put in the window switches and added the gauge pod and mount up front.

[Bryce]

Are those CF wheel tubs and interior panels?

[TheKingOTW]

Are those CF wheel tubs and interior panels?

No, it's a vinyl wrap, M500. Even when your standing at the car looking at it, you can't tell the difference. It's a nice quality product.

[Mr.VENGEANCE]

damn!.. looking great!

[TheKingOTW]

I got the driver seat, shifter, cable, console and transmission controller wired and installed today. It should be pretty nice to be able to control and make changes to the 4L85E Supermatic on the fly.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/IMG_1718-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/IMG_1712-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/IMG_1713-1.jpg

[Rhino]

We had to re-taper the steering arm to raise the outer tie rod up about a 1/4" to clear the rim but it now fits perfectly.


I just happened to read through the entire thread. You've made awesome progress so far. The one thing I may mention is that it might be beneficial to check your bump steer curve. If you've moved your outer tie rod ends up 1/4", to maintain the same handling characteristics you'll also want to move your rack mounts up the same amount as well.
While not making the change won't equal catastrophic failure, it can make the car act squirrely and and unpredictable.

[TheKingOTW]

I just happened to read through the entire thread. You've made awesome progress so far. The one thing I may mention is that it might be beneficial to check your bump steer curve. If you've moved your outer tie rod ends up 1/4", to maintain the same handling characteristics you'll also want to move your rack mounts up the same amount as well.
While not making the change won't equal catastrophic failure, it can make the car act squirrely and and unpredictable.

I am not sure I follow your thought process. First, the rack is not movable. It is mounted to the lower control arm bolts. There is about 5-6 inches of travel in the front end. The angle and height correlation to the rack of the tie rod constantly changes as you drive. Since I have coil overs on the front, adjusting the ride height would change the height and angle of the tie rod anyway.

[Bryce]

I think rhino is saying the change made to the outer tierod pivot point will affect your bumpsteer. It may be something that needs to be fixed if its outrageously bad. his suggestion of moving the inner pivot up is perfectly valid if you coul dspace the rack. In your case that does not seam possible.

Real quick you want to make sure the LCA and tierods are parralel to each other. And this is the line between the pivot points that need to be parralel. In theory you want the LCA and tierods to stay parralel throughout suspension travel.

[Rhino]

Thanks Bryce, that's exactly the path I was going down.
You're correct that everything is moving while the suspension cycles, however the cause of bump steer can be seen in the difference in angular change between your tie rod and your LCA. It only takes a small change to effect bump steer. Just as Bryce stated, as long as the IBJ to OBJ length on your rack is the same as the lower control arm, and they're parallel in plain view, you should have minimal bump steer.

Assuming a correct bump steer curve originally, by moving the outer pivots without moving the inners may cause a larger angular difference through the suspension travel. It may be fine, and in theory it may be better now. It's simply something that I would want to check before hitting the road.

[TheKingOTW]

Thanks Bryce, that's exactly the path I was going down.
You're correct that everything is moving while the suspension cycles, however the cause of bump steer can be seen in the difference in angular change between your tie rod and your LCA. It only takes a small change to effect bump steer. Just as Bryce stated, as long as the IBJ to OBJ length on your rack is the same as the lower control arm, and they're parallel in plain view, you should have minimal bump steer.

Assuming a correct bump steer curve originally, by moving the outer pivots without moving the inners may cause a larger angular difference through the suspension travel. It may be fine, and in theory it may be better now. It's simply something that I would want to check before hitting the road.

There aren't any IBJ on the rack, other than the connection points of the tie rods into the rack housing itself, which are not visible. Looking at the rack, the moving of the ball joint 1/4" up improved the geometry of the tie rod to the LCA, but I am not sure how much of a difference 1/4" over a 14" length of tie rod will matter. I'll let you know when I get it aligned and take it for a ride.

[TheKingOTW]

Most of the wiring is done and the dash is in. Some final under dash connections and it will be ready for the column. Besides a few touch ups needed on the roll cage, the car should be ready this weekend. A good washing and cleaning and I'm ready for a test run.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/IMG_1719-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/IMG_1722-1.jpg

[exwestracer]

And, so....?

[sportcoupe]

And....any rubber left?

[GrnDragon]

Great looking car!!!
What shifter is that?

[TheKingOTW]

It’s been a while since my last post, so I figured I would give you a quick update. I haven’t done a lot of work on the car lately, and made a few changes. I replaced the Covans dash with a Detroit Speed Dash. What a difference this new dash makes. I took the car to Hotrod Sunday at Palm Beach International Raceway today. It is about a 45 minute trip north and the car drove like a Cadillac the entire trip. It was a smooth ride at about 80MPH running at 2500RPM. I am still going through my check list of small items to finish, but here are some pictures of the car at the show.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/IMG_2054-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/IMG_2052-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/IMG_2050-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/IMG_2048-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/IMG_2047-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/IMG_2045-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/IMG_2059-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/IMG_2038-1.jpg

[69X22]

Man the car came out looking nice!

[GT500KR_Vert]

looks awesome

[Motown 454]

X2 Awesome! The seats look great in there.

[TheKingOTW]

Thanks guys. I am really happy with the way it turned out. I have a small check list of things to finish up and it should be good to go. I am probably going to take it on the Hot Rod Power Tour this year.

[monteboy84]

Looks sharp, I love your wheel selection.

-matt

[Motown 454]

I like the way you left the one stainless piece running through the tail light. It brakes up all the black and is a nice focal point. Almost like it frames the ZL1 emblem.

[TheKingOTW]

I like the way you left the one stainless piece running through the tail light. It brakes up all the black and is a nice focal point. Almost like it frames the ZL1 emblem.

I played with a few differrent ideas for the tail lights and ended up painting the stainless frame around the lights flat black. This left just the stainless center bar running through the tail light. I am really happy with the way they came out and look.

I also shortened the rear bumper about 3/4" on each side, and sucked it in about a 1/2" so it fits really tight all the way around. There are also no exposed bolts in the bumper as well. I decided not to use the back up lights, even though I have the RS tail lights installed.

It's all in the small details.

[TheKingOTW]

If anyone is looking to buy an awesome race car, I have my 1967 Camaro on Ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140521093357

You can also contact me with any questions.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/28KGrHqYOKkIE0YDfEyuyBNZzbYszJw_12JPG-1.jpg

[Crestronwizard]

Very nice! Wish I had an extra $92k to spend

[jmorgan]

What shifter did you use??? How is the rear suspension?? I am in the middle of a very similar build, but with a procharged LSX 434 motor. I have a ladder bar setup currently but your setup looks very interesting. My car will alos see lots of street time, so I want a comfortable ride...

[TheKingOTW]

What shifter did you use??? How is the rear suspension?? I am in the middle of a very similar build, but with a procharged LSX 434 motor. I have a ladder bar setup currently but your setup looks very interesting. My car will alos see lots of street time, so I want a comfortable ride...


The shifter is a TCI Outlaw. The suspension rides great. It handles like glue and driving down the highway at 80MPH you would swear you were in a Cadillac.

[TheKingOTW]

1967 Camaro Race car is SOLD. It will be going to Australia.

OK, now I am ready for a new project....

[chunger]

Wow, that's great. Did you get the price you wanted?

[JJEH]

looks great!

[TheKingOTW]

Since the 1969 Camaro and 1962 Bubble Top are 2 of my favorite cars, I decided to make my next build a 1969 Camaro Bubble Top.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/hrdp_0909_01_zcustom_chevy_musclecarscam-1.jpg

[Chevrolaine]

Dare to be Different! Love it! ^

[TheKingOTW]

What shifter did you use??? How is the rear suspension?? I am in the middle of a very similar build, but with a procharged LSX 434 motor. I have a ladder bar setup currently but your setup looks very interesting. My car will alos see lots of street time, so I want a comfortable ride...

The shifter is a TCI Outlaw. The rear suspension works great.

[rideorange812]

Car looks great. I love the theme.

[monteboy84]

That Camaro Bubble Top is pretty cool, you for sure going to do it?

-matt

[Diesel]

Can you give me any info on the roll bar in the chevelle? Is it custom or does somebody make them. Looks like something I'd like to use in my build.

[Bullockracing]

The suspension rides great. It handles like glue and driving down the highway at 80MPH you would swear you were in a Cadillac.

I think we're all waiting for a road course/autocross report on the "articulation" in the rear suspension. Ride and drive that rear suspension is without a doubt perfectly adequate - the question is, does it plow like a dump truck? LOL, couldn't resist.

Awesome car, no doubt about it, either way.

[TheKingOTW]

That Camaro Bubble Top is pretty cool, you for sure going to do it?

-matt

I am pretty sure it will be my next project, although I am talking to a few high end builders to take on the project. The way I would want the car built, its a little too much of a project to take on myself, unless I go on the 5 year plan.

[TheKingOTW]

Can you give me any info on the roll bar in the chevelle? Is it custom or does somebody make them. Looks like something I'd like to use in my build.

The roll bar was custom built out of stainless. If you want some additional info, PM me for details.



I think we're all waiting for a road course/autocross report on the "articulation" in the rear suspension. Ride and drive that rear suspension is without a doubt perfectly adequate - the question is, does it plow like a dump truck? LOL, couldn't resist.

Awesome car, no doubt about it, either way.

I plan on taking the car out to Columbus, OH for the GoodGuy's PPG Nationals. If your there, you can watch it on the autocross yourself.

I may even bolt a plow on the bumper :)

[Zanie]

I looked for this car on Hot Rod Power Tour. I didn't see it.

[cobraguy65]

I looked for this car on Hot Rod Power Tour. I didn't see it.

I didnt see it either.

[sportcoupe]

I wanted soooo bad to get to this PowerTour this year.
Maybe next year

I see he was there.

http://powertour.net/04_community_05_tour_2011/04_community_05_tour_2011_00_June4.html

Hope this link works.

[Zanie]

I didn't see it on the autocross course in Nashville

[aj400v8]

Amazing build!!! Your Camaro turned out insane!

[TheKingOTW]

The car was in Coco Beach for the first day of the Power Tour. We had too much going on to make the trip to Detroit. You probably didn't see the car in Nashville becuase it wasn't there. Why did you think it would be there?

I have put almost 1,000 miles on the car already and I have to say it is a pleasure to drive, especially with the cold A/C. The project turned out great and I am very happy with the results.

[ClarkMotorsports]

Thats Fine!

[TheKingOTW]

Because finished is never finished, I decided to make a few more modifications and changes. I added NACA Ducts to the carbon fiber hood and finished the trunk.

Here are some pictures.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/IMG_24841-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/IMG_24821-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/IMG_24811-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/IMG_24741-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/IMG_2477-1.jpg

[solarguy09]

Back in 1983, I named my car "The Beast", because it was.......

Even after all the new mods that I am doing now, I must choose another name...

A lot has changed in 28 years....

Maybe I will call my car "Crazy Fun", or something...

But The Beast........Nope.

Your car and some others on this site are way more Beastly than mine...

Good Job....Dang....

I won't even be finished with my Phase 2, and you got me started thinking on Phase 3, Haha...

Very, very Nice Job....

[Bryce]

The NACA ducts are pulling air into the engine compartment, is your intake there?

[CARLMB]

Where did you get the ducts from? They look great and I am looking for something similar. Thanks

[SRD art]

The Camaro turned out great! I used to run my Nova at Moroso back in the late 80s and early 90s. Wonder if I've seen your car at the Gatornationals or Super Chevy or something like that. Would've probably been a different color tho, lol!

That bubble top Camaro is a great concept. With the ability to build a car like you have, ever thought about doing something different? I've got a 74 Nova for sale ;), runs 11s and the price tag is less than what I have in the motor.

Seriously though, you're obviously a Camaro fan but why not do something different for a change. Maybe an oddball year Nova or other x body, a not as popular year Impala like 67, 68, 69, 70..., etc? Take a car that you wouldn't expect to be as cool as your Camaros and make it so. Do what most of us only dream of for our "less popular" cars since our wallets won't allow. Just a thought.

Anyways, great cars!!

[TheKingOTW]

The NACA ducts are pulling air into the engine compartment, is your intake there?

The NACA ducts are more to let fresh air under the hood and let heat out.


Where did you get the ducts from? They look great and I am looking for something similar. Thanks

I bought them on Ebay. They were made from a really crappy mold and had to do a lot of work to get them where I could even use them. I think they were about $100 for the pair.

[Bryce]

The NACA ducts are more to let fresh air under the hood and let heat out.

I was talking about the direction you placed them on the hood. The aerodynamics behind NACA ducts has a lot of engineering behind their use. The laminar flow and boundry layer affect how the NACA ducts work.

In that orientation it brings air into the engine compartment at speed. Hence my comment about the location of your intake. In the opposite direction NACA ducts pull air out of the engine compartment without really drag.

[parsonsj]

The NACA ducts are more to let fresh air under the hood and let heat out.Are you thinking that at speed, air flows in, and then at rest, it lets heat out from under the hood?

[TheKingOTW]

Are you thinking that at speed, air flows in, and then at rest, it lets heat out from under the hood?

Yes, sort of. I am thinking that I have vents in my hood to allow fresh air to enter under the hood and a way for excess heat to escape. I also have 2 huge Spal fans on the radiator that pulls air into the engine compartment and this offers another way for the hot air passed through the radiator to escape. I don't think the NACA Ducts facing the opposite direction would work, visually. Now if they were on an airplane, maybe, but not on my hood.

[ROEINONDUBS]

Did u add the mesh to the ducts ?

[TheKingOTW]

Did u add the mesh to the ducts ?

Yes, after buying the ducts, I got a piece of the same mesh used on the cowl panel from Anvil and used it in the NACA Duct openings.

[ryeguy2006a]

what ever happened to the Ferrari Steering wheel?

[TheKingOTW]

what ever happened to the Ferrari Steering wheel?

Couldn't make it work with all of the functionality. The main reason was that nobody made a column that would work in the car with a "clockspring", and it didn't make sense to put the steering wheel on if none of the switches or buttons worked on it.

Since I know what the next question is, I will answer it below.

A clockspring or clock spring is a special rotary electrical connector which allows a vehicle's steering wheel to turn while still making an electrical connection between the steering wheel airbag and/or the vehicle's horn and other devices and the vehicle's electrical systems. The clockspring is located between the steering wheel and the steering column.

[TheKingOTW]

I haven't posted an update since February, so I decided to share some pictures of the new console I put in the car. It was time for a change. I put about 1500 miles on the car in the last year or so and it is running great.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/IMG_3042-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/IMG_3041-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/IMG_3044-1.jpg

[TheKingOTW]

Here are some pictures from the Super Chevy Show at Palm Beach International Raceway this year.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/sucp042012PalmBeachAMSOILBestOfTheBestCa-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/sucp052012PalmBeachAMSOILBestOfTheBestCa-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/sucp062012PalmBeachAMSOILBestOfTheBestCa-1.jpg